Great instructions ... FYI to anyone that has model DAR044A4BDD-6 : There is no need to take the top off. In this model there is no styrofoam layer to replace. The cabinet is metal, but it's not super thick so with some patience a hole saw cuts through it. To get the location correct, I started from the inside and drilled up until the pilot bit went through, then drilled down from the top.
Once again, thanks for your tips. I've updated the Description area. I added your tip and credited you with it. I also added more information on Danby models below. I hope you're enjoying your kegerator. Cheers!
Thank you. I made the video because I had to use multiple sources to come up with my build. I was trying to provide a fairly complete build in a single video. Best of wishes on your new build. Cheers!
You are welcome. The video was inspired, because I had to go to quite a number of sources to do this. Hoped to make it easier for those who follow. Cheers!
Great video! Easy to follow and good tips. Ordered mine from Amazon, which arrived today. Door demolition is finished in about 60 mins for me. I'm going to put this under a bar so my tower will be decoupled from the top of the fridge. Going to run a glycol truck line from inside he fridge to the ceramic tower attached to the top of the bar. Purchased some temperature sensing gear from ebay + a small submersible pump to run the glycol / chilled water to the tower and back. Getting thirsty already.
If I had only waited a few more days I could have had a visual guide to help me with my build! I like your copper tubing and perhaps I'll convert to that if I have issues with how I set mine up. We'll see, cheers Kevin!
+Manbearpig1122334455 - Well... you were my inspiration for finally editing this video. A day late & a dollar short, but you'll know how to setup the copper tubling moving forward. You're going to love having the kegerator!
Starting a conversion on a similar Danby. Thanks for the help! It's nice to know that I won't be cutting through anything important when I remove the door tray. :)
+Lucky13 Brewing Thanks Kyle. Been enjoying mine for most the year. Thought it was about time I put up the video to help people find move of what they need in a single source. Cheers Kyle!
+Sam Godfrey (Feather Duster) Excellent. I'm glad the video was helpful. That was the whole purpose. The copper tubing has really made a great difference for me. Cheers!
+The Last Lick Brewery (Martin Sully) - Excellent. If you're not kegging now, you'll love it! Tried to message you on one of your video, but it wouldn't go through. Have you made the move to Australia? Cheers!
+Christer Trasti - You should have no problem building one. I tried to make a complete video on the options and steps involved. I never installed the internal fan. The copper pipe setup to cool the lines in the tower have done a great job. Have fun!
Nice "How To" Kevin.... We really have to search to find rear mounted panel cooling fridges here in the UK... I've not seen that many (I'm sure someone will comment re availability!!). Like the thought processes obviously taken in making/editing.... Cheers doowd
"Ven" ? The copper pipes are simply cooled by the refrigerated space. I added the T in the copper lines to allow them to cool better and transfer the cold through the metal up the tower. I'm not sure if that answered your question.
Wonderful video! thank you for making it. I was wondering if you think two 1/6 barrels would fit? I found online that corny kegs are 9" diameter and 1/6 barrels are 9-1/4". So basically I'm asking if you have about a 1/2" of wiggle room with the two corny kegs? It looks like a tight fit in the video.
Superbly done! My build is slightly different; I actually bought a Keg fridge from Costco and to my dismay, I can't fit two 30L tall boys in it 😞. It's got two taps, but it's only designed for those short, fat 30L kegs. What I want to do with my Danby (which I already have) is add a fridge only and then run (short) gas/beer lines over to the other fridge that's got the twin taps on it. In the future, I'll get a three tap tower so I can run three beers with the whole setup. My question is, can I drill through the side of the fridge for the gas/beer lines?
I'm sorry for the slow reply. I understanding is that you cannot go through the sides. There are some tests you can do to see where the lines are for cooling, but I've heard it's not always accurate.
Thanks again for the Video. I was just wondering what diameter copper tubing you used, and if silicone sealant would work around the hole instead of tape. I don't have a flaring tool so will have to figure something out for the ends of the copper tubing. Cheers again & 17
+Sam Godfrey (Feather Duster) Hi Sam. I considered silicone myself, but decided to go with the tape from past experience. If you use silicone, find a product designed for outdoors, like for sealing windows. This would ensure it could stand up to cold, wet conditions. I used 3/4" copper tubing. Rather than purchasing an expensive pipe flairing tool, I purchased a "swaging tool" By HDX for $6.95. model HDX053. Cheers!
So far this is one of the best "how to" videos that I have found. This Danby model fridge seems to be the way to go, and will be the one that I order. I'm wanting to build a custom mini bar where my fridge fits up under the countertop. My plan is to install the tower on the top of the counter. Would I cut a smaller hole in the top of the fridge to only allow the hoses to run through? Also do you have any recommendations on how to seal up the hole around the hoses?
Your most important question is how you will pull out the refrigerator if required for any reason. ( Leaks, replacement, etc.) It may be as simple as cutting the lines and removing the tower and pulling the beer lines up through the top counter. I would probably cut only two holes, one for each line. File the edges of the metal and plastic, then tape them along with the insulation to keep it from getting wet. I would then consider using foam insulation (sprayed from a can) through the top counter hole, to insulate the space around the beer line below the counter, down to the refrigerator below. Sounds like a fun project. Best of luck!
ClementsHomebrew this is exactly why I like using my resources and asking people who have done this before. I would have never thought about the fact I may need to pull the fridge out to replace it. I may try to come up with some sort of coupler between the top of the fridge and bottom of the counter. That way it would be a fairly simple disconnect without having to cut lines or anything. I will just have to sit down and do a little bit of thinking on this one. Thank you for the tips and advice!
Do you know if there are any coolant lines on the sides? I might shave off a bit of foam on the sides inside to get a little bit more room. Going to be modifying this to fit 2 sixtels (will have to create a divit in the back shelf for the second keg to push back further and re-insulate ). Thank you so much for your video.
+Stephen Reisig - All of the cooling lines are found in the sides and back. So you will want to be very careful. I know that you can cut off the sections on the left and right sides that are designed to support the shelves without issue. The bottom back area, I really can't advise you. Best of luck on you project!
+ClementsHomebrew Thanks. I was able to do it no problem. Can fit two commercial sixtel kegs now. i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b457/NJxRinzler/IMG_4755_zpsmhftteps.jpg
Great video. I have same fridge. I need to drill my hole in the side of the fridge. Any advice for finding where I can drill there without hitting lines?
Ouch. That's a tough one. I'd advice against it from what I know about the design. Option 1: Search "How to find coolant lines in a fridge" and to locate information on making a past that will help you locate them. Option 2: Find your local fire station, take them some cookies and a few home brews. Then ask them if they have "thermal imaging cameras". They probably do and they are awesome little portable units that read heat differentials in material. I've heard they are usually more receptive that people might imagine to pulling out the camera and taking a quick look at the walls of any cooling unit in order to see where the lines are run. I would suggest setting up a rough time to do it. Plug the unit in to get it nice and cold, before making a quick run for the fire station. The whole process with the camera should take about 2 minutes. While most guys and gals in the fire service would be happy to take a few minutes out of the day to make a citizen happy. CHEERS!
Thanks for all the great info. I'm in the process of building one for my basement bar. I built a cabinet to the left of the mini fridge to store the CO2 bottle in. I'm running a double regulator. I was hoping to drill a hole in the left hand side of the fridge to run the CO2 lines through. Anyone done this? I don't think there's any cooling or electrical lines on that side, but I want to make sure before I drill.
Good question. My assuption is that the cooling is primarily in the back. I would instead look into using the drain plug area in the back of the fridge. You should be able to removed the drain pan and get a good look at it. Cheers!
After careful consideration, I drilled my hole in the back left bottom corner of the fridge. I used a small drill and then after making sure I didn't have any issues, used a larger 2" hole saw to finish the job. I then put another hole in the outer metal left side of the fridge. Worked perfect, and should accommodate my CO2 lines easily. Thanks again for the info.
I know it's been 3 years of that comment but would you consider sending me a picture of where you did that hole? lol a friend of mine did some hole and scrapped the fridge.
I'm building this for my boyfriend for his birthday! Thanks for such a detailed video!!! A couple questions, what were the measurements on the copper tubing? Also, did you sweat the joins of the copper tubing together?? Thanks
+Bonnie A - RE: Copper Tubing Measurements: You will need to check the height of your tower. Try to give yourself 5" - 8" of copper tubing to each side of the tee. This will maximize how cool the copper can get to cool the tower area. I soldered the tubing together. Cheers!
First of all, thanks for the video. Extremely detailed and precise. I did the exact same build a few days ago. Everything seems to be working, the refrigerator does its usual cycles and all. The problem is, it doesn't seem to be getting any cooler than 50F, event though the door is well sealed and the tower well insulated. The refrigerator had no problem keeping 39F and lower before the build. Do you have any idea of what my problem might be? Thanks a lot!
Great video on building the kegerator. Just finished my conversion after watching the video. How did you determine the length of your liquid lines. I am getting some foaming.
Thank you. Sorry for the slow reply. I determined the length on several factors. Short lines create more foaming. Long lines are hard to fit inside. If your beer is foaming too much consider lowering the temperature. If that doesn't work add another two feet to the lines.
Great video and great info! I'm new to the kegerator world but we are seasoned beer drinker :). I'd like to convert a Danby DBC120BS fridge (glass door) to a kegerator with a tower but can't find any specs on the location of electrical and cooling lines. I think the effect of seeing the tank and lines would be a great conversation piece... The specs say it only cools to 43F but I've read a number of reviews that say it can cool lower than that... Any advice? Thanks!!
I have a two part solution. First, call Danby support at 800-263-2629 and ask if there is refrigeration in the top (or top rear) of the refrigerator. Second, remove the plastic top cover and paint a cornstarch/vodka mix onto the metal surface on top (should be paste-like consistency), then switch the fridge back on and the evaporation process should leave a white line where the freon line is at.
Great video. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the Danby fridge. There are some comments on Amazon that it doesn't get very cold. Have you found it gets cold enough for you?
+Dave E It gets plenty cold for me. I only have it turned up about 3/4 of the way. My nephew did a current build. He lives in southern California, which is much warmer. It' works great for him as well. He used the Danby DAR044A5BSLDD. Enjoy!
I imagine you mean in terms of electronically. The physical connections were done using zip ties. In terms of power, I used an AC/DC Power Adapter. I created a hole hole in the back of the unit to pass the the electrical wires (along with a temperature probe), which was later filled with a spray foam. The connected electrical wire by stripping the end of the wires and placing them into a tubular crimp connector. In addition, I used a tubular heat shrink wrap designed to protect against cold and moisture. The fans themselves were good quality computer case fans. There are plenty of videos covering how to connect the to AC/DC power adapters. Good luck! Where are you from?
You place the oxiclean (or other solution) inside a corning keg. Connect the co2 tank. The pressure from the co2 take will run the cleaner through, just as it does the beer.
I picked up the copper tubing from Home Depot. The tower kit came from Keg Connection. I liked the easy options they presented. They were very helpful on the phone too. www.kegconnection.com/tower/
A sixtel keg is similar to a corny keg (5.16 gallons), but with a commercial connection. You would have to check the dimensions (particularly the height), but 1 should easily fit. Good change you could fit 2, depending on the width.
Does current model work just the same? Looking to buy but not sure if will fit two kegs? Also what kegs did you use specifically so I can buy same ones?
Actually, I ended up not installing the fan. The copper tubing with the T manages all the cooling in the tower. I do have fans in my fermentation chamber. You can get a computer fan and an appropriate amperage AC Adapter to run them. The wire can be run through the drain port at the back wall of the Danby. Cheers!
Thank you Greg! I suppose nothing should surprise me these days, but still I was surprised. We filed a copyright infringement with UA-cam. All the best to you. Cheers!
In the end, I didn't need the interior fan because I didn't need it. However, should you require a fan, you can run the wire through the drain port (since it isn't used). The copper piping extended down the tower really does a great job cooling the lines.
![Kegerator Cabinet Build [Part 3]- DIY Kegerator build using a Danby 4.4 mini fridge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wt2W_E3hHvQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great instructions ... FYI to anyone that has model DAR044A4BDD-6 : There is no need to take the top off. In this model there is no styrofoam layer to replace. The cabinet is metal, but it's not super thick so with some patience a hole saw cuts through it. To get the location correct, I started from the inside and drilled up until the pilot bit went through, then drilled down from the top.
Thank you!
That's valuable information.
Once again, thanks for your tips. I've updated the Description area. I added your tip and credited you with it. I also added more information on Danby models below.
I hope you're enjoying your kegerator. Cheers!
I like the use of the copper for helping keep the lines chilled. Slick. Nice How To vid, Kevin. Well done! Cheers!
+Josh Secaur Thanks Josh. The copper tubing works so well, I've never bothered to install the fan. Cheers!
Great informative video. Just picked up a used Danby on craigslist and can't wait to start building one.
Thank you. I made the video because I had to use multiple sources to come up with my build. I was trying to provide a fairly complete build in a single video.
Best of wishes on your new build. Cheers!
Love the addition of the copper!! I want to build one! Cheers Kevin!!
+larmo22 - The copper has worked amazingly well for me. Never had to install the fan. Cheers Larry!
Thanks for the video! I built my kegerator after watching this video and I love it!! Cheers!
You are welcome. The video was inspired, because I had to go to quite a number of sources to do this. Hoped to make it easier for those who follow. Cheers!
Great tutorial Kevin! I like it. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
+homebeerbrewery Thanks Glenn. I wanted to make it as complete as possible. Cheers!
Great video! Easy to follow and good tips. Ordered mine from Amazon, which arrived today. Door demolition is finished in about 60 mins for me. I'm going to put this under a bar so my tower will be decoupled from the top of the fridge. Going to run a glycol truck line from inside he fridge to the ceramic tower attached to the top of the bar. Purchased some temperature sensing gear from ebay + a small submersible pump to run the glycol / chilled water to the tower and back. Getting thirsty already.
Wow! You really took it to the next level. Glad the video was helpful. Sounds like you have quite the setup. Man Cave? lol Cheers!
Great how to video Kevin. Every man needs one. Cheers
+Homebrew Chris - Thanks Chris. My hope is that this makes the decisions and process easier for people looking to build a tower kegerator. Cheers!
If I had only waited a few more days I could have had a visual guide to help me with my build! I like your copper tubing and perhaps I'll convert to that if I have issues with how I set mine up. We'll see, cheers Kevin!
+Manbearpig1122334455 - Well... you were my inspiration for finally editing this video. A day late & a dollar short, but you'll know how to setup the copper tubling moving forward. You're going to love having the kegerator!
Starting a conversion on a similar Danby. Thanks for the help! It's nice to know that I won't be cutting through anything important when I remove the door tray. :)
Yes. One great benefit with these models. Cheers!
Awesome idea with the copper tubing. I have not seen that before, it makes total sense. Hope things are going well for you my friend. Cheers!
+BHbrewing Thanks Larry. The copper tubing has worked so well that I never had to install the fan. Cheers!
Love mine still. Probably over 2 years old. Cool to see how you did yours. Nice informative video.
+Lucky13 Brewing Thanks Kyle. Been enjoying mine for most the year. Thought it was about time I put up the video to help people find move of what they need in a single source. Cheers Kyle!
Awesome How To Video Kevin! I like the Copper Tubing addition for extra Tower Cooling. Cheers!
+Pooka NC Thanks Brad. Hopefully a helpful video for the community. Cheers!
Thanks Kevin for the great video. It convinced me to go with the copper tubing. Simple to do and works great, that what I like. Cheers!
+Sam Godfrey (Feather Duster) Excellent. I'm glad the video was helpful. That was the whole purpose. The copper tubing has really made a great difference for me. Cheers!
Great how-to video! Perfect for someone looking for a small serving unit! Cheers!
+Rich's World Beer Tour Thanks Rich.
Great build and great instructions. Congrats on the new "working space appliance" :-) Cheers!
+Cerveza de Garaje Thanks Dioni. Been using it since last spring. Been serving me very well. Cheers!
Awesome stuff, Kevin. Looking forward to seeing that tower at serving time. Cheers Kevin!
+Chris Meek - Been using the tower since the beginning of last Spring. I just never put the video together. Been serving me very well. Cheers Chris!
Awesome vid! Incredibly detailed. I'm doing the same project right now, so I'm very appreciate of the effort you put into this video.
Thanks Tim. Cheers!
Glad this has helped Tim. Cheers to all your future beers!
Great kegerator tutorial! Cheers!
+Tony Yates - Thanks Tony. Hoping that others will benefit from the things I learned along the way... and after completing my build. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing, I've got to build one at some point. I'm sure much of this will apply to different makes. Cheers!
+The Last Lick Brewery (Martin Sully) - Excellent. If you're not kegging now, you'll love it! Tried to message you on one of your video, but it wouldn't go through. Have you made the move to Australia? Cheers!
Hey, no, we're in New Zealand until February, it's unusually warm at the moment, which is strange leading up to Christmas.
Great tutorial! Nice step by step with clear instructions!
+The Tipsy Knitter - Thanks much. If I can make it easier for the next person. That's the goal. Enjoy your Sierra Nevada clone. Cheers!
Really helpful and informative video! I really enjoyed it. Will be attempting to build my own kegerator this summer. :-)
+Christer Trasti - You should have no problem building one. I tried to make a complete video on the options and steps involved. I never installed the internal fan. The copper pipe setup to cool the lines in the tower have done a great job. Have fun!
Great video, thank you for posting. What did you do with the fan and where did you leave the fridge to plug in the 110v?
I would be happy to send you a few photos of the fan locations. You can email me at cleminator13@gmail.com
Thank you, very helpful, I just did mine today with you tips. Tx!
Awesome Marty. I'm glad the video helped. I'd seen several videos and written documents. I hoped to make one that was a little more complete. Cheers!
Good job done Kevin good tutorial, did a video a couple of weeks ago about drilling a fridge for a gas line,
Cheers mate,
+cheshirehomebrew Thanks much. Cheers!
great video bro nice work
Thank you so much. Did my best to make a clean video with good information. Cheers!
Nice "How To" Kevin.... We really have to search to find rear mounted panel cooling fridges here in the UK... I've not seen that many (I'm sure someone will comment re availability!!). Like the thought processes obviously taken in making/editing.... Cheers doowd
Awesome video! Any recommendations for insulating the door if the foam is falling apart?
Depends on the depth. For me, we can now go to Home Depot and purchase smaller pieces of foam insulation. See what size you need, cut and attach.
Looks pretty good. Just don't understand what you did with the ven. Though you will attach the cooling to the pipes somehow.
"Ven" ? The copper pipes are simply cooled by the refrigerated space. I added the T in the copper lines to allow them to cool better and transfer the cold through the metal up the tower. I'm not sure if that answered your question.
Nice one Kevin brilliant build it looks the business, had to switch video off thought I'd got a message but it was your phone.
+Steve Moulson - Ha ha! I need to start silencing my phone when I make videos. Thanks Steve. Cheers!
+ClementsHomebrew When I worked in retail many years ago, I played a text tone over the tannoy and just watched all the customers grab the phones.
Wonderful video! thank you for making it.
I was wondering if you think two 1/6 barrels would fit? I found online that corny kegs are 9" diameter and 1/6 barrels are 9-1/4". So basically I'm asking if you have about a 1/2" of wiggle room with the two corny kegs? It looks like a tight fit in the video.
Sorry for the slow response. The height will not be an issue. Cheers!
great help thank you!
Glad it was helpful. I'd seen lots of info. I wanted a video that was fairly complete. Cheers!
Glad it helped
joshua calderon yg
No problem. Glad it has helped!
Thank you for the very informative video! How did you go about finding a toggle light switch?
Actually, in the end I had enough light and didn't need it. I removed the light in my case.
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
+Wrecked Brewery Thank you. Hoping it will help others and make it easier for them to move to kegging. Cheers!
Superbly done! My build is slightly different; I actually bought a Keg fridge from Costco and to my dismay, I can't fit two 30L tall boys in it 😞. It's got two taps, but it's only designed for those short, fat 30L kegs. What I want to do with my Danby (which I already have) is add a fridge only and then run (short) gas/beer lines over to the other fridge that's got the twin taps on it. In the future, I'll get a three tap tower so I can run three beers with the whole setup. My question is, can I drill through the side of the fridge for the gas/beer lines?
I'm sorry for the slow reply. I understanding is that you cannot go through the sides. There are some tests you can do to see where the lines are for cooling, but I've heard it's not always accurate.
awesome
+Todd Nansel Thanks you. Hope you found it helpful. Cheers!
Thanks again for the Video. I was just wondering what diameter copper tubing you used, and if silicone sealant would work around the hole instead of tape. I don't have a flaring tool so will have to figure something out for the ends of the copper tubing. Cheers again & 17
+Sam Godfrey (Feather Duster) Hi Sam. I considered silicone myself, but decided to go with the tape from past experience. If you use silicone, find a product designed for outdoors, like for sealing windows. This would ensure it could stand up to cold, wet conditions.
I used 3/4" copper tubing. Rather than purchasing an expensive pipe flairing tool, I purchased a "swaging tool" By HDX for $6.95. model HDX053. Cheers!
Hello, I am looking at a Danby DAR044A4BDD
, will that fit two Kegs? Appreciate it.
Not sure if you'll find the model. Models keep changing. Mine fits 2 corny kegs.
So far this is one of the best "how to" videos that I have found. This Danby model fridge seems to be the way to go, and will be the one that I order. I'm wanting to build a custom mini bar where my fridge fits up under the countertop. My plan is to install the tower on the top of the counter. Would I cut a smaller hole in the top of the fridge to only allow the hoses to run through? Also do you have any recommendations on how to seal up the hole around the hoses?
Your most important question is how you will pull out the refrigerator if required for any reason. ( Leaks, replacement, etc.) It may be as simple as cutting the lines and removing the tower and pulling the beer lines up through the top counter.
I would probably cut only two holes, one for each line. File the edges of the metal and plastic, then tape them along with the insulation to keep it from getting wet. I would then consider using foam insulation (sprayed from a can) through the top counter hole, to insulate the space around the beer line below the counter, down to the refrigerator below. Sounds like a fun project. Best of luck!
ClementsHomebrew this is exactly why I like using my resources and asking people who have done this before. I would have never thought about the fact I may need to pull the fridge out to replace it. I may try to come up with some sort of coupler between the top of the fridge and bottom of the counter. That way it would be a fairly simple disconnect without having to cut lines or anything. I will just have to sit down and do a little bit of thinking on this one. Thank you for the tips and advice!
Do you know if there are any coolant lines on the sides? I might shave off a bit of foam on the sides inside to get a little bit more room. Going to be modifying this to fit 2 sixtels (will have to create a divit in the back shelf for the second keg to push back further and re-insulate ). Thank you so much for your video.
+Stephen Reisig - All of the cooling lines are found in the sides and back. So you will want to be very careful. I know that you can cut off the sections on the left and right sides that are designed to support the shelves without issue. The bottom back area, I really can't advise you. Best of luck on you project!
+ClementsHomebrew
Thanks. I was able to do it no problem. Can fit two commercial sixtel kegs now.
i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b457/NJxRinzler/IMG_4755_zpsmhftteps.jpg
+Stephen Reisig Great modification. That that would even be great for my corny kegs! Cheers!
Great video. I have same fridge. I need to drill my hole in the side of the fridge. Any advice for finding where I can drill there without hitting lines?
Ouch. That's a tough one. I'd advice against it from what I know about the design.
Option 1: Search "How to find coolant lines in a fridge" and to locate information on making a past that will help you locate them.
Option 2: Find your local fire station, take them some cookies and a few home brews. Then ask them if they have "thermal imaging cameras". They probably do and they are awesome little portable units that read heat differentials in material. I've heard they are usually more receptive that people might imagine to pulling out the camera and taking a quick look at the walls of any cooling unit in order to see where the lines are run. I would suggest setting up a rough time to do it. Plug the unit in to get it nice and cold, before making a quick run for the fire station. The whole process with the camera should take about 2 minutes. While most guys and gals in the fire service would be happy to take a few minutes out of the day to make a citizen happy.
CHEERS!
Thanks for all the great info. I'm in the process of building one for my basement bar. I built a cabinet to the left of the mini fridge to store the CO2 bottle in. I'm running a double regulator. I was hoping to drill a hole in the left hand side of the fridge to run the CO2 lines through. Anyone done this? I don't think there's any cooling or electrical lines on that side, but I want to make sure before I drill.
Good question. My assuption is that the cooling is primarily in the back. I would instead look into using the drain plug area in the back of the fridge. You should be able to removed the drain pan and get a good look at it. Cheers!
I would highly recommend using the drain plug area to run your lines. You can remove the drain tray and have good visibility in this area.
After careful consideration, I drilled my hole in the back left bottom corner of the fridge. I used a small drill and then after making sure I didn't have any issues, used a larger 2" hole saw to finish the job. I then put another hole in the outer metal left side of the fridge. Worked perfect, and should accommodate my CO2 lines easily. Thanks again for the info.
Excellent. I'm glad that worked out for you Brent. Cheers!
I know it's been 3 years of that comment but would you consider sending me a picture of where you did that hole? lol a friend of mine did some hole and scrapped the fridge.
What size screws are holding the copper brackets in place? Great video!
Honestly, I couldn't tell you at this point, but they are fairly shallow screws. Screwed into the plastic they have had no issues holding.
Do you have problem with the temperature?
What is the mínimum temp do you have ?
Not at all. I do believe my copper tubing in the tower has a lot to do with that.
Not at all. I do believe my copper pipe in the tower has a lot to do with that.
I'm building this for my boyfriend for his birthday! Thanks for such a detailed video!!! A couple questions, what were the measurements on the copper tubing? Also, did you sweat the joins of the copper tubing together?? Thanks
+Bonnie A - RE: Copper Tubing Measurements: You will need to check the height of your tower. Try to give yourself 5" - 8" of copper tubing to each side of the tee. This will maximize how cool the copper can get to cool the tower area. I soldered the tubing together. Cheers!
Thank you so much can't wait to get this done this weekend!
First of all, thanks for the video. Extremely detailed and precise.
I did the exact same build a few days ago. Everything seems to be working, the refrigerator does its usual cycles and all. The problem is, it doesn't seem to be getting any cooler than 50F, event though the door is well sealed and the tower well insulated. The refrigerator had no problem keeping 39F and lower before the build.
Do you have any idea of what my problem might be? Thanks a lot!
I've never heard this one before. My first thought is that something isn't sealed well. Is the interior 50F or the beer?
Great video on building the kegerator. Just finished my conversion after watching the video.
How did you determine the length of your liquid lines. I am getting some foaming.
Thank you. Sorry for the slow reply. I determined the length on several factors. Short lines create more foaming. Long lines are hard to fit inside. If your beer is foaming too much consider lowering the temperature. If that doesn't work add another two feet to the lines.
Great video and great info! I'm new to the kegerator world but we are seasoned beer drinker :). I'd like to convert a Danby DBC120BS fridge (glass door) to a kegerator with a tower but can't find any specs on the location of electrical and cooling lines. I think the effect of seeing the tank and lines would be a great conversation piece... The specs say it only cools to 43F but I've read a number of reviews that say it can cool lower than that... Any advice? Thanks!!
I have a two part solution. First, call Danby support at 800-263-2629 and ask if there is refrigeration in the top (or top rear) of the refrigerator. Second, remove the plastic top cover and paint a cornstarch/vodka mix onto the metal surface on top (should be paste-like consistency), then switch the fridge back on and the evaporation process should leave a white line where the freon line is at.
Great video. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the Danby fridge. There are some comments on Amazon that it doesn't get very cold. Have you found it gets cold enough for you?
+Dave E It gets plenty cold for me. I only have it turned up about 3/4 of the way. My nephew did a current build. He lives in southern California, which is much warmer. It' works great for him as well. He used the Danby DAR044A5BSLDD. Enjoy!
What size kegs did this fit? and did it fit the co2 tank inside as well?
+Brandon Yates - This are the Pepsi style corny kegs. But I've seen people in put in pepsi, coke and new corny kegs a well.
How did you install the fan?
I imagine you mean in terms of electronically. The physical connections were done using zip ties.
In terms of power, I used an AC/DC Power Adapter. I created a hole hole in the back of the unit to pass the the electrical wires (along with a temperature probe), which was later filled with a spray foam.
The connected electrical wire by stripping the end of the wires and placing them into a tubular crimp connector. In addition, I used a tubular heat shrink wrap designed to protect against cold and moisture.
The fans themselves were good quality computer case fans. There are plenty of videos covering how to connect the to AC/DC power adapters.
Good luck! Where are you from?
@ClementsHomebrew thank you, I'm in Michigan.
This might be a stupid question but how did your run oxiclean through the lines?
You place the oxiclean (or other solution) inside a corning keg. Connect the co2 tank. The pressure from the co2 take will run the cleaner through, just as it does the beer.
How do you pass the co2 tube into the refrigerator?
Through the drain hole in the back. Most mini frig units have a drain hole down to a pan for water condensation.
@@ClementsHomebrew But wont it block the hole ?
@@lol567345 Perhaps, but you're no freezing things or leaking. No ice build up. So it's never been an issue in the 4 years I've had it.
You may have answered this, but where did you get the kit from and the Cooper tubing? Great video.
I picked up the copper tubing from Home Depot. The tower kit came from Keg Connection. I liked the easy options they presented. They were very helpful on the phone too. www.kegconnection.com/tower/
Do sixtel size kegs fit if it's just one of them
A sixtel keg is similar to a corny keg (5.16 gallons), but with a commercial connection. You would have to check the dimensions (particularly the height), but 1 should easily fit. Good change you could fit 2, depending on the width.
How did you end up mounting the fan ?
In my case, I never ended up installing the fan. My system has kept cool enough all these years with the copper tub setup for the beer lines.
Does current model work just the same? Looking to buy but not sure if will fit two kegs? Also what kegs did you use specifically so I can buy same ones?
Last model I checked: Danby DAR044A5BSLDD
Where can you not find 3/8 board? ¿¿¿¿
here in mexico I wasnt able to...I got a 9mm one instead (0.35433 Inches)
I really had to hunt for the 3/8" board. It is just to support the space in the plastic top. You could use two boards - 1/8" and 1/4".
Amazon has a 12x12" piece of pine which I ordered, but at $12 it was probably more than a hardware store.
Any body know the brand or tower model? Thanks in advance
I picked up mine from Keg Connection. www.kegconnection.com/2-faucet-tower-homebrew-kegerator-kit/
macrapidito l
How did you wire your fan?
Actually, I ended up not installing the fan. The copper tubing with the T manages all the cooling in the tower. I do have fans in my fermentation chamber. You can get a computer fan and an appropriate amperage AC Adapter to run them. The wire can be run through the drain port at the back wall of the Danby. Cheers!
Fyi, youtube user Jeanett Zemlicka stole your video and reposted along with an affiliate Amazon link underneath
Thank you Greg! I suppose nothing should surprise me these days, but still I was surprised. We filed a copyright infringement with UA-cam. All the best to you. Cheers!
Would the DAR044A6BSLDB work?
From the appearance, yes the DAR044A6BSLDB should work.
It appears that the DAR044A6BSLDB model would be a good candidate.
"Mini fridge". In much of the world that's a standard under-counter fridge. Nice instruction video though.
+mwtbones - Thanks! I've added the under counter terminology to the description. Cheers!
What pain in the ass just buy one done
I love DIY projects, but their not for everyone. Thanks for watching! Cheers
It's fun and saves around 300 over an equivalent commercial kegerator.
How did you wire the fan in and where did you put it?
In the end, I didn't need the interior fan because I didn't need it. However, should you require a fan, you can run the wire through the drain port (since it isn't used). The copper piping extended down the tower really does a great job cooling the lines.