I’m a manager for a general construction company. I started when I was 19 and did it for 3 years. Then I spent 7 years chasing other more “appealing” jobs and none of them fit me. I’m back in the company I started working for at age 29. I don’t prefer “general” construction for many reasons and so I’ve been thinking of going into a specialty type of construction. That’s why I watch your videos to learn about landscape/hardscaping. But I don’t know anything about it and at age 30 with a wife and 4 kids to support I’m not sure how to transition into a new field again. But I enjoy watching very much. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks for the feedback man. It is not easy finding what you want to commit your life to for sure. There is something about construction in general that is fascinating and fun, I can't get enough of it. I started in the landscape maintenance side of the business. I did mowing, mulching, pruning, clean ups, etc.. until I was about 22. Then I switched to the construction side of the business. Doing lawn installs, plantings, grading, excavation, etc.. I did that until I was 25. During both of those periods I did hardscaping here and there, but I always loved it when I got the chance. So at 25 I made the full jump into strictly hardscaping. I am so glad that I did. I can't see myself doing anything different for the rest of my life. It has everything that I like to do. Equipment operation, designing, creating and building. Plus I am always outdoors! I am glad you are enjoying the videos, I appreciate the support! ✌
I'm quite impressed by your commitment to sharing good information. Your videos are good quality, and the information is presented clearly. And your level of community engagement in the comments section is beyond anything I've seen. It seems to me like you enjoy engaging with people, and people are responding very positively to it. Thank you for taking your time with us.
Thank you, I really do love this work and industry. I always have honestly. I think that's why I am so engaged into the comments, It has been awesome connecting with others and sharing my knowledge. It all pays off when others send me pictures of work they have done because what they learned from the channel, very cool. I just want to spark an interest in this type of work because it is so rewarding. Thanks for the feedback man!
You and Ben are awesome! I am a landscape contractor who is looking into stepping into hardscaping to get to the next level. I’ve taken techno block, unilock training, and combining them with your videos has given me the confidence to start bidding work this year. Thank you for your awesome videos and the work you produce. May I make a request? Some more explanation on finding and setting grades would be awesome ! Maybe even getting into how you do your first site visit and planning the project for the customer. Thanks for being awesome!
That's awesome brother, Thanks for the feedback! And congratulations on taking the next step, This trade is very rewarding and a nice change from landscaping everyday. I did landscape maintenance and mowing for 6+ years before I got into the Construction side. Then I started doing plantings, lawn installs, excavation, etc... Then really focused on hardscape only for the past 5 years or so now. I love it and will never go back to landscaping if I don't have too. I do plan on getting into my estimating and planning this year, Just not quite sure how I am going to put a video like together yet... The grades and elevations I will go over in some of these videos, but will also try and think of some video ideas that focus mainly on that. Thanks again man, I love connecting with others in the trade on here. God Bless! ✌
Hello Christian I working on our front patio paving and was searching for right and good way to install paiving. I came across your video and it really make sense. I love your good info step by step on the complete paving, but I also like your small talk with Benny and Travis … you make it all very entertaining. You seems like a wonderful, kind, gentle, hardworking, caring person…. And also handsome… thank you so much for sharing your expertise and your good advices with all of us. God bless!!
Nice job dude! In Hungary we use 3 layers for the base. Below is the compacted soil. Then geotextile. A base layer of large crushed stone. (Frost protection, 20-50mm stone size, min. 200mm layer size ) A smaller size of powdery crushed stone as a load-bearing layer. (0-20mm stone size, 100-300mm layer size) Then geotextile again. Deep bending layer of 2-5 mm grits. (20-50mm layer size) We compact all layers with a petrol plate compactor. (exception is the deep bending layer) Thx for the videos! It's good to see the nice and correct works!
Thanks! It is nice to hear from someone that far away. Seems like you need to take a few extra steps than we do here. Glad you are building things to last. Too many contractors not doing quality work. Thanks for the feedback, God Bless! ✌
Your channel has been a huge help for me. I started hardscaping about two years ago, and I've learned so much from your work. I appreciate your channel! Keep doing what you're doing!
Oh sweet! Glad to hear it, thanks for the feedback. I love this industry and I have been really enjoying making the videos for UA-cam. Plenty more to come man! ✌
DIYer. Trying to lay my own walkway (25'x 32") to the shed. Watching to learn. Laying pavers is a lot harder to DIY than it looks. Thank you for the videos, they really help me out.
Thank you great content! DIY guy here in Ontario Canada. I recycled 1800 driveway pavers to the backyard for a 20 x 20 patio I am here to learn the ways and avoid dumb mistakes! Great channel, narrative, explanations. Very helpful in my initial planning.
I’ve been trying to figure out how to put in a paver walkway, stairs, patio by myself. Thanks for taking the time to really explain how you do things, what products and why. I feel like I can tackle that now! Thank you!
Homeowner DIY here....found out the builders, or whoever made our paver patio, used nearly a foot of sand as backfill and then pavers in top of the membrane. All screwed up, but your video is exactly the info I needed.
Well this video is exactly what i need at this particular moment, this project is my own, and i did make the mistake of putting the woven fabric on the soil, then put about 6 to 8 inches of clear stone on to that. I haven't done the whole thing that way, only about a quarter of it. The remainder will be done the way I've just witnessed on this video, and I won't half step on the base material, because drainage is a concern. Thanks, and I'll refer to the other video's as I move forward. So once again, this is my own project, not done for anyone else.
I'm a DIY kind of girl. Having said that I like watching construction too. I used to go to my dad's job sites when I was a toddler and I have pictures of me and my dad on large construction equipment. Just in my blood. Great info as always!! Blessings.
Nice, I love it! You are one of few women that watch the channel, most are not interested in this stuff so It is awesome hearing from one that is. I definitely agree it must be in the blood. Male or Female, when you grow up around construction, you fall in love with it. You must hold on dear to those pictures. I have a few older pictures of me and my father in some equipment and trucks. Very cool. Thanks for the feedback, God Bless! ✌
Hi Kyle I was looking for a way around removing the entirety of a cement walkway with flagstone finish my dad and I installed 51 years ago. After viewing this I believe you will recommend complete removal and make a fresh start. Your explanation of how open grade base accommodates water and potentially it's expansion into ice makes sense. I found your channel looking for an alternative to fabricating a paver border and settled on your cement technique. I liked your reference to the master masons and builders of the Roman empire. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and supporting your reasons for and against the methods you mentioned.
@@georgedalton4816 Thank you very much for this great feedback. When I switched to this method 4+ years ago, I did a lot of research and everything I explained is what I learned. Now that I have put it to the test with over a hundred installs, I completely stand by it. I think it is the best method for any natural stone or concrete paver / block project. I'm glad you found the explanation understandable. The romans definitely knew hoe to build things. The roads and paths they made lasted 1000's of years, so modeling my backfill method after theirs seemed like a very smart thing to do. This country has been laying asphalt, concrete, pavers and bricks on hard packed dense grade for a long time now... And all we have to show for it is deteriorating roads and sidewalks. We need to start building the way the romans did sooner rather than later.... Thanks again for the feedback. I really appreciate it! ✌
being a diy guy ,i found the frost factor very interesting. although less of a problem in my region. having said that loacal road workers will repair pot holes mid winter during the wet. then of course it freezes so we get eruptions
Yea, this backfill method really helps with preventing the pavers from heaving in the winter. And I totally hear you on the damn pot hole repairs. They last a day or 2, that's about it..... Even if you don't deal with frost, this method is extremely helpful for allowing water to drain freely.
I've been studying your process for months now. I've been hand digging a paver patio area and prepping it for this. The place where I ordered the pavers and base wanted me to do the traditional method, but I just can't see how that is any good after seeing several of your videos. I went against their recommendations, and I'm about to tackle this process this week with 3/4 open base! I am very confident as a DIYer, that this is the way to go. I can't wait to tell you about the results. Thank you so much for these videos.
That is really cool! You will not regret going with this method, it always blows my mind how little suppliers / installers use this method. There are so many benefits with no downfalls that I have found. Good luck with your project and thank you very much for the feedback! ✌
Hello from uk, I've been watching your channel a while now. i think this is the best way to lay patio slabs, especially with the stones so much easier to level the sand or cement. Its actually interesting to watch this type of work be done aswell. Keep it 👍
I went to a local landscaping stone yard the other day here in Florida. They were not familiar with the HPB PBS but they had something that looked very similar. I may just have to grab a few buckets and load up my car for this smaller sitting area patio. After laying about 2 rolls of 16x16 pavers I realized I should probably go another 4" deeper for stone base after watching your videos
It is always pretty surprising how not many landscape supply yards around the country have or know about that type of material. It must just be more popular in freeze / thaw climates. It certainly would not hurt to go deeper with the base. Although you are in Florida, and won't have the freeze / thaw. It will do nothing but help with drainage of water. Good luck man!✌
Nice, There a good handful of others in my area that use it because they see the benefits. But there is more that don't. They refuse to switch from dense grade / sand. I don't understand why, It is clear as day that this method is better... Some old dogs can't learn new trick's..... 🤷♂️✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper either that or they prefer either or both of the negatives in their wallets at the expense of their clients... lol. Less excavation, less grading, less everything except the money coming in.... and, if something lasts a few years, people have been conned into thinking that's just the way it goes... so they call back the culprit every so often and they make money several more times... I'd rather have my work reflect strength, durability, and longevity. Something I can be proud to put my name on, and that someday I can point out to my children and it still is as it was when I built or layed it. It's not the most intelligent thing to do in this society, one where money rules all... but, it's the right thing to do on another level. Something well made, functions correctly, is not only pleasing to the clients and passersby, but its safer for everyone (speaking more to my more common repair jobs restoring historic buildings after careless others have left them now literally collapsing just to earn a quick buck (or, due to pure ignorance or lack of education), but, families live in these homes... its sad.) Funny, I am a convicted felon, and while running this business I have somehow become one of the few who isnt a "crook," some of the stuff I see blows my mind. But, stubbornness also plays a huge role. God bless and keep up the good work!
Hey brother, God bless you with great health and plenty of work for your business. I just found your channel, and I am very glad I did. You got my subscription, lots of awesome tips that I learned from your valuable experience and content. Just bought an acreage in Missouri, and I will apply what I learned here in my paver project for the back yard! Much blessings and love brother.
Thank you very much brother, I appreciate it! I'm glad you are enjoying the channel and that it is helping you out. Good luck with your project, God Bless! ✌
Great video and exactly what I was looking for. I have very dense and heavy clay soil in my area. I plan on making a 20 ft circular paver patio with a fire pit in the middle. The patio will be elevated due to a slight slope I am building on (patio itself will be sloped at 1/8" as well. Learned that from one of your newer videos). My plan is to use concrete blocks that you use for retaining walls that will be a border for the patio, acting as a small step to get onto the patio. The blocks will be capped. How deep do you think I should excavate with my soil conditions? My soil does not drain very well. I was thinking 12"-16". Loving your channeling brother! Best hardscaping channel on YT!
Nice, glad to hear it! This method will be fine for your situation, even with the heavy clay. I think excavating to 12" will be fine. My only advice would be to include a 4" corrugated drainage pipe into the backfill stone and divert it through a trench to a lower grade to make sure the water can escape. In well draining sub soil conditions that is not necessary but with clay, it is better safe than sorry. Thanks for the feedback and good luck with your project!
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks for the reply and drainage tip. It was on my mind to maybe install some corrugated pipe to help with drainage. Its a very inexpensive solution that will just help improve the drainage and give me some peace of mind. Thanks again Kyle!
Hello! Great videos really enjoy your channel. As a new homeowner I took an interest in doing all sorts of construction work to see how it should be done to last and what scale of projects I can do myself and which will require me to hire outside help. I think having the knowledge how a job should be done allows me to hire a young team and just explaining them exactly what I want. I also feel confident about doing small projects or fixes myself. Your channel and others like it are pure gold and a great resource to save money overall!
Yessir we do our patios the same way brother! 3/4 clean stone with the fabric!!! Love it bro. I’m glad seeing someone else doing it like this!! Great work as always bro!
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks bro so are you and for our dry laid work we use a mix we call dry packs it’s 4 sand 1 portaland cement and we mix it dry. Then we lay our units in it and then we hose it down at the end of the day. It works pretty good for drylaid patios
@@maxg9999 oh nice, that's what's up! I used to work with a mason that would do that for bluestone steppers. Help lock them in place. I thought it was a pretty good idea.
Thanks! Doing a home project for an outdoor kitchen. How to you set the layer and level your base material before compacting and then setting up screed rails? Thanks for sharing the information you do!
I've been working on a ~ 7 by 8 foot area for my 1st 16" patio sitting area. Located in FL but I've dug down about 9" I'm not going to compact dirt. I'm going to lay thin amount of the base stone on the plain ground, hand tamp, add fabric and then add more of the clean stone. (Do we hand tamp again before adding paver base?) I'll measure pavers then see how much paver base I can add on top and I grabbed a couple steel bars for screed. This will be quite the accomplishment for me when I get it done as I've only done one other smaller paver area that has held up well. I'll keep in mind the pitch for water drainage. Your videos have helped so I'll see how it turns out.
You are spot on with all of it. Once you lay the fabric and backfill to height with the clean stone, yes, tamp it to settle the stones tight. Then lay your steel bars and add the bedding material. You can use the bedding material under the bars to get the correct pitch. Then screed and lay the pavers! Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad the videos were helpful. Good luck! ✌🏻
Thank you for all the knowledge you're spreading. I have area with tree roots and I don't wanna dig and damage the roots. What would happen if I use retaining wall blocks or concrete as the border and use 2 inch geo grid to hold the base material compact, lay fabric, add bedding material and lastly lay the pavers. since the geo grid resist movement wouldn't the pavers stay in place?
No problem. Do you mean you are going to build it as a raised patio? Is that why you want to use the wall block on the edges? If so, yes, that is a great way to not damage roots and the geo grid will definitely help stabilize the base stone. Just keep in mind that you need a couple inches at least on top of the roots so that the blocks / pavers don't start moving after a couple years of the tree growing.
Great video, watching from Ohio. Of course I just found this video after constructing my base using 411 crushed lime stone mostly as the backfill. Maybe for the front yard when I do the walkway up there I will try your method I guess here in the back I’m just gonna have to make sure I get the slope a little steeper so the water will drain away? God bless brother.
I'm doing a small 10' x 10' paver patio install out here in California, not in a freezing climate. Should I still go with the open grade base and 1/8" bedding stone instead of road base and sand? I have a hard clay based soil. I already laid a half a yard of road base down. Thank you. Love your channel and quality content!
Nice, I would definitely still recommend this base prep method for a warm climate. It is very helpful with drainage so the benefits are still there for you. Also, the bedding stone is 3/8" clean, crushed stone. Sometimes you can find 1/4" but 1/8" is very small... Good luck!
Thank you for the prompt response. I have one more for ya. Should I use plywood between the plate compactor and the pavers? I have 3 piece blue stone 2 5/8" pavers with a textured top.
@@king4brisbane No problem, you should definitely use something to protect the pavers from the compactor. A dense foam or rubber that does not scuff is best but plywood would work. Only problem with plywood is sometimes the wood breaks into small pieces that can make a mess...
I've watched a few of your videos. I'm converted now. I've subscribed. You are the ONLY construction related channel I know that explains why you do what you do for base. Your stuff is the right stuff. My question: The first layer that goes over the natural soil that is compacted into the base must be about 1 inch or so as I see the ground soil embedding within the 3/4" rock. The second 'lift' is much larger 4-6" or so. Is that correct?
That's great to hear, I appreciate the feedback! And you are right on the money with your understanding. Here is a link to the fabric that I use 👉srwproducts.com/product/ss5-woven-fabric/
Great channel. Beautiful work. I am planning on a DIY project for a paver sidewalk and step. I am curious as to whether the size/weight of the plate compactor needed for the job matters?
Thank you! You can use any size smaller compactor for foot traffic only applications. I even use a hand tamper on some smaller projects. So whatever you can get your hands on will work for that project. Good luck with your project!
My pleasure, thank you! And yes this method will work with clay subsoil. But if you are building it in the lowest grade of an area, you may need to add a drain pipe from the base stone to another area to divert the water.
Hi Christian - I see your skid steer bucket doesn't have teeth. I am planning to rent same but wondering will it be able to dig 10-12 inches of dirt? Please advise. Thank you for all your hard work.
It should be able to, but it honestly depends on the soil you have. Some jobs are easier to excavate then others based on that. If you run into a lot of rocks, that machine will have a tougher time digging without teeth on it. But if it is loam / sandy, it will dig it out no problem.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks Kyle. Sure I will give a try. Also, have you ever posted any video on how to build retaining wall, I couldn't find any such. Please do share if you have it.
Hi there, We will be trying to build a DIY patio, but we’re going to use both travertine pavers, as well as the concrete pavers. Do you know if this method also works for the travertine? Thanks in advance! LOVE LOVE LOVE your videos! They are very clear, and very easy for those of us who are new to this, to understand!
Hello, That sounds like a fun project! This method certainly will work with travertine. I'm glad the videos have been helpful and I wish you the best of luck!
Christian, how would you modify your method if you were doing a patio on top of a drainage pit? I’m doing a patio with permeable pavers with a design of 1’ deep of 2.5” crushed stones as a storm water drainage below the 6” of 3/4 crushed stone. Essentially the whole patio is also a storm water recharge tank. Would you put the fabric between the 2.5” and 3/4” layers? Thanks for your videos.
I’ve been doing landscape maintenance full-time for the last 4 years. I’m pretty sick of it but it pays the bills. I’ve wanted to do hardscape installs for a while now. I’m scared to get a job and do it wrong. Any ideas for hands on training? I work for myself so I just don’t think I could make enough working for someone else to pay my bills.
That is cool that your are working for yourself, I did maintenance for many years before I switched to hardscaping. I learned by working for other companies but if you do not want to do that, I recommend selling some small projects. Little walkways or a basic square / rectangle patio. That way the risk is small and if you follow these videos, I can almost guarantee you will have no problems. As far as pricing for them, you just need to take some time figuring out the cost of materials in your area and combine that with your labor rate and overhead. You may not be perfect at pricing in the beginning but that and the experience just comes with time. Good luck brother! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks for the response! Your videos are great they’re really making me feel more confident in selling a job. We will see in the next few weeks. Wishing you and ole Benny a great 2024!
I'm starting a paver project in my backyard where an above ground pool was. The soil underneath is really sandy. What should be my 1st layer to backfill? I also need to raise the grade up about 12". Could you recommend what my layers of materials should be? Thanks for doing these DIY videos. You do some nice work and really explain things well.
I would recommend this exact method for sandy soils. Sandy soil is excellent to have under pavers, you will never have water issues. Just be sure to spread the thin layer of stone and compact before the geotextile fabric. Then follow the steps of this video.
Great video very informative. When calculating how many pavers you will need when using a set pattern does anything change, say I have a 10x10 patio (100sqft) (20 sqft for border) do I just go to the supplier and ask for 80 sqft of let’s say pattern B witch is 3 different sized pavers. And then ask for 20 sqft of 1 regular paver for border? TIA
It really depends on the pavers and the pattern. You need to check the spec sheet of the pavers you are buying and the specs of the pattern in that same sheet. If the pattern is from the manufacturer, they will have a ratio for you to follow. Then you need to figure that out on your own with the supplier. I typically do not follow patterns. I usually use 3 piece design pavers and lay randomly. As long as you follow a few basic rules of laying randomly, you will have no issues. What kind of pattern are you planning to go with?
Hey Kyle! Great video. What is the difference between 3/4 concrete crush and 3/4 crushed stone? Is the 3/4 crushed concrete the old method you discussed earlier in the video?
3/4 crushed concrete is much weaker than stone. It will break down quicker and has too much dust in it, which restricts water flow unlike clean, crushed stone. The old method I used was using (Dense Grade) for the base material, which is 3'4 inch crushed stone minus. Meaning it is made up of 3/4 stone, stone dust and sand fine particles. This material gets compacted every couple inches as you backfill. Then we would use sand for the bedding material to lay pavers on. I have found that method is inferior because water has a very hard time traveling through it and draining into the sub soil. This method is made up of a (3/4 "clean" crushed stone) meaning it has no stone dust, sand or fine particles mixed in, allowing water to flow through freely and drain into the sub soil very easily. Then we use a 3/8 inch "clean" crushed stone for the bedding material that we lay pavers onto. Which again, has no stone dust, sand or fines in it, allowing water to travel through freely. That is key to paver installs, making sure no water sits in the base beneath the pavers. This method assures that.
I've been loving the educational videos on your channel and appreciate you guys. I plan to start a patio for my house this Fall following your steps. I have a question though. In certain videos you compact intial layer of 3/4 stone, lay the geotextile, then lay more 3/4 inch stone. In this video you didnt compact the second layer of stone, but I've seen you do it in other videos. Is it better to compact the second layer of stone or should i just compact the first layer?
Glad to hear the videos have been helpful! We do compact the second layer of stone, I did not show that in this vide but we did compact the top layer once we got the grade to the correct height.
Hi enjoying your videos as a DIY project for our home in VA plan on doing pavers and no circles to avoid cutting stone. We plan on doing two end walk way and front and back.. You have been a blessing in sharing content. Prayerfully my husband and I can pull it off. Jesus take the wheel, lead & guides us thru. God's blessings.
That sounds like a very fun project, I'm sure you both will be able to pull it off! Just takes a good plan and plenty of research. I'm glad my videos are helping with giving you confidence. And the faith in God giving you the strength and wisdom is key, anything is possible with Him by your side. God Bless and good luck! ✌
What do you mean of 98 percent compacted?Thank you 14:16 Based on from your video, if I understand correctly, When you dump 3/ 4 crushed stones under 6 inches, the crushed stones self compacted 98 % by themselves When over 6 inches , using compactor go though TWO times?
Yes, when you dump and spread the 3/4 stone, it is 98% compacted already up to 6 inches. Meaning when you compact, you are just tightening it up the rest of the way. That percentage decreases rapidly after 6 inches. So say you need 8 inches of 3/4 stone. You should spread out 4 inches then compact, then spread the remaining 4 inches and get it to the correct height, then compact again. If you are using 5-6 inches of 3/4 stone, just dump and spread to the correct height and compact only once 👍🏻
hello and thank you for the videos, i cannot find the open grade base gravel anywhere in my area...everyone has #57that looks too large to compact well and CR-6 which has the stone dust in it that you avoid for drainage reasons.....the kicker is that the edges of my driveway from under the pavement appears to be exactly what you are describing. is there an "stone number" or grade that would be easier to find? would 4 inches of 57 and 2 inches of CR-6 work as well with #8 bedding layer. Thanks again for your video help very well done.
No problem, I'm sorry you are having a hard time finding this material. But #57 is very comparable to what I use here. It may be a little dustier than the stone I use but it is clean, crushed stone. Which would be considered open grade base. On the bedding material, you need something with no dust or fines. If not, the dust and fines will migrate into the base stone, causing sinking / shifting in the future. I would recommend calling around for 3/8 inch crushed (Pea Stone). Most aggregate yards sell something like that. It may not be considered (Chip Stone) but if it is clean, crushed stone that is less than a 1/2 inch, you will be all set. Worst case scenario, use #57 for the base, then lay fabric and spread the CR-6 you are talking about over it. That will prevent the bedding material from migrating. ✌
If you had very dense clay as a subsoil, digging deeper helps allow water to drain. Also for vehicular traffic paver applications. You want a deeper / stronger base when prepping for vehicular traffic. ✌
That machine is excellent. It is surprisingly strong and very smooth. Not sure I would ever buy a Bobcat, They are over priced in my opinion, but as a rental, could not be more happy with it. I have used it on numerous jobs now and has been extremely helpful. ✌
The 6' was not quite enough to go up both side of the walkway excavation. You really want to make sure it goes up the sides and that is the best way. Plus it helps with drainage to have more seems for the water to drain through.
I have, but not a big fan of it. I always try to excavate to a proper depth. Not sure I agree with replacing the excavation depth with a piece of foam....
I can’t seem to find anywhere in my area that has 3/4 inch clean base material. I’m a homeowner that can’t afford to pay for landscaping so I’m looking to get as much info as possible
@@roberto.gallegos wow.... that's wild. I would maybe call a concrete producer in the area. That is a key component to making concrete for foundations, walkways and driveways. They need that clean crushed stone for sure. Maybe you can get some through them or they will point you to someone who does have it...,.
When you say minimum 4 inches of 3/4 crush rock, in areas that do not freeze, do you mean two inches crushed into the subbase, then the geotextile fabric, then another two inches on top of that? Or is 4 inches on top of the 2 inches under the geotextile fabric?
I typically don't count the thin layer under the fabric. That is only about in inch and even les when compacted into the sub soil. You want a minimum of 4" on top of the fabric. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaperThanks for that. In future videos, you might want to express the dimensions of the base as "X inches of 3/4" crush rock *ABOVE* the geotextile fabric"
I’m going to use the blu 80mm techo block paver, (not a pattern just a random pattern) which consists of 3 different sized pavers one’s a small rectangle ones the Square, and one’s a larger rectangle, if I need 80sqft of the pavers do I just ask for 80 sq ft and they will do the calculations or do I need to break down the total size of each different paver and ask for the needed blocks? The pavers will be later randomly and not in a pattern. TIA
Ok, so techo bloc will already have all 3 sizes on the pallet. Each layer will have a certain amount of each size. So yes, you just need to order the square footage. The only thing I would say is that if you’re just doing a patio, I would go with the Techo bloc blu 60. Not the blu 80. The 80 is 3-1/8 inches thick and designed for driveways. The Blu 60 is 2 3/8 inches thick and design for foot traffic. ( patios / walkways ) it is the same design and same sizes as the Blu 80, just not as thick. It will save you money and save your back when laying them… LOL. The other advice would be to get 5-10 extra sq ft in case some break during the install or in the future, causing you to have to replace them. I almost always get a broken piece or 2 on every pallet. Same goes for the border, get a few more than you need.
Hi Kyle, this video has lots of helmet cam swinging back and forth and it is making me dizzy watching it. Helmet cam is not bad for up close work but too much in this video. Recommend using a stand for larger overview camera shot when working in a large area. I seen you used those camera stands in other videos.
Thank you very much for the honest feedback. They say for every comment, many others are thinking it but don't mention it. So I really appreciate you telling me how you feel and I will keep that in mind for the future. ✌
We have quite a few different soil types here in Massachusetts. This particular job is mainly sand / gravel. Some projects are done in areas that have a lot of top soil, But we run into clay like soils and often as well.
I’m a manager for a general construction company. I started when I was 19 and did it for 3 years. Then I spent 7 years chasing other more “appealing” jobs and none of them fit me. I’m back in the company I started working for at age 29. I don’t prefer “general” construction for many reasons and so I’ve been thinking of going into a specialty type of construction. That’s why I watch your videos to learn about landscape/hardscaping. But I don’t know anything about it and at age 30 with a wife and 4 kids to support I’m not sure how to transition into a new field again. But I enjoy watching very much. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks for the feedback man. It is not easy finding what you want to commit your life to for sure. There is something about construction in general that is fascinating and fun, I can't get enough of it. I started in the landscape maintenance side of the business. I did mowing, mulching, pruning, clean ups, etc.. until I was about 22. Then I switched to the construction side of the business. Doing lawn installs, plantings, grading, excavation, etc.. I did that until I was 25. During both of those periods I did hardscaping here and there, but I always loved it when I got the chance. So at 25 I made the full jump into strictly hardscaping. I am so glad that I did. I can't see myself doing anything different for the rest of my life. It has everything that I like to do. Equipment operation, designing, creating and building. Plus I am always outdoors!
I am glad you are enjoying the videos, I appreciate the support! ✌
I'm quite impressed by your commitment to sharing good information. Your videos are good quality, and the information is presented clearly. And your level of community engagement in the comments section is beyond anything I've seen. It seems to me like you enjoy engaging with people, and people are responding very positively to it. Thank you for taking your time with us.
Thank you, I really do love this work and industry. I always have honestly. I think that's why I am so engaged into the comments, It has been awesome connecting with others and sharing my knowledge. It all pays off when others send me pictures of work they have done because what they learned from the channel, very cool. I just want to spark an interest in this type of work because it is so rewarding. Thanks for the feedback man!
I'm glad you're putting these videos out! This is my first video of yours..Definitely won't be the last! Keep up the great work!
Glad to hear it, thank you! ✌
You and Ben are awesome! I am a landscape contractor who is looking into stepping into hardscaping to get to the next level. I’ve taken techno block, unilock training, and combining them with your videos has given me the confidence to start bidding work this year. Thank you for your awesome videos and the work you produce. May I make a request? Some more explanation on finding and setting grades would be awesome ! Maybe even getting into how you do your first site visit and planning the project for the customer. Thanks for being awesome!
That's awesome brother, Thanks for the feedback! And congratulations on taking the next step, This trade is very rewarding and a nice change from landscaping everyday. I did landscape maintenance and mowing for 6+ years before I got into the Construction side. Then I started doing plantings, lawn installs, excavation, etc... Then really focused on hardscape only for the past 5 years or so now. I love it and will never go back to landscaping if I don't have too.
I do plan on getting into my estimating and planning this year, Just not quite sure how I am going to put a video like together yet... The grades and elevations I will go over in some of these videos, but will also try and think of some video ideas that focus mainly on that.
Thanks again man, I love connecting with others in the trade on here. God Bless! ✌
Hello Christian
I working on our front patio paving and was searching for right and good way to install paiving. I came across your video and it really make sense. I love your good info step by step on the complete paving, but I also like your small talk with Benny and Travis … you make it all very entertaining. You seems like a wonderful, kind, gentle, hardworking, caring person…. And also handsome… thank you so much for sharing your expertise and your good advices with all of us. God bless!!
Thank you very much for this awesome feedback! We like to make good quality hardscapes and enjoy our days at work. God bless you to!
Nice job dude!
In Hungary we use 3 layers for the base.
Below is the compacted soil.
Then geotextile.
A base layer of large crushed stone. (Frost protection, 20-50mm stone size, min. 200mm layer size )
A smaller size of powdery crushed stone as a load-bearing layer. (0-20mm stone size, 100-300mm layer size)
Then geotextile again.
Deep bending layer of 2-5 mm grits. (20-50mm layer size)
We compact all layers with a petrol plate compactor. (exception is the deep bending layer)
Thx for the videos! It's good to see the nice and correct works!
Thanks! It is nice to hear from someone that far away. Seems like you need to take a few extra steps than we do here. Glad you are building things to last. Too many contractors not doing quality work. Thanks for the feedback, God Bless! ✌
Your channel has been a huge help for me. I started hardscaping about two years ago, and I've learned so much from your work. I appreciate your channel! Keep doing what you're doing!
Oh sweet! Glad to hear it, thanks for the feedback. I love this industry and I have been really enjoying making the videos for UA-cam. Plenty more to come man! ✌
DIYer. Trying to lay my own walkway (25'x 32") to the shed. Watching to learn. Laying pavers is a lot harder to DIY than it looks. Thank you for the videos, they really help me out.
It certainly is not easy...lol I'm glad the videos have been helpful and I hope the project is going smooth. Good luck! ✌
Thank you great content! DIY guy here in Ontario Canada. I recycled 1800 driveway pavers to the backyard for a 20 x 20 patio I am here to learn the ways and avoid dumb mistakes! Great channel, narrative, explanations. Very helpful in my initial planning.
No problem at all, glad the content is helping you with your project! Good luck! ✌
I’ve been trying to figure out how to put in a paver walkway, stairs, patio by myself. Thanks for taking the time to really explain how you do things, what products and why. I feel like I can tackle that now! Thank you!
No problem, thank you for the awesome feedback! I'm glad my videos have helped with your confidence. Good luck with your projects!
Homeowner DIY here....found out the builders, or whoever made our paver patio, used nearly a foot of sand as backfill and then pavers in top of the membrane. All screwed up, but your video is exactly the info I needed.
I'm sorry to hear that, what a nightmare... Glad my video was helpful. Good luck with your issue ✌
Well this video is exactly what i need at this particular moment, this project is my own, and i did make the mistake of putting the woven fabric on the soil, then put about 6 to 8 inches of clear stone on to that. I haven't done the whole thing that way, only about a quarter of it. The remainder will be done the way I've just witnessed on this video, and I won't half step on the base material, because drainage is a concern. Thanks, and I'll refer to the other video's as I move forward. So once again, this is my own project, not done for anyone else.
I'm glad to hear it, following this method will not let you down. Good luck on your project! ✌
I'm a DIY kind of girl. Having said that I like watching construction too. I used to go to my dad's job sites when I was a toddler and I have pictures of me and my dad on large construction equipment. Just in my blood. Great info as always!! Blessings.
Nice, I love it! You are one of few women that watch the channel, most are not interested in this stuff so It is awesome hearing from one that is. I definitely agree it must be in the blood. Male or Female, when you grow up around construction, you fall in love with it. You must hold on dear to those pictures. I have a few older pictures of me and my father in some equipment and trucks. Very cool.
Thanks for the feedback, God Bless! ✌
Hi Kyle I was looking for a way around removing the entirety of a cement walkway with flagstone finish my dad and I installed 51 years ago. After viewing this I believe you will recommend complete removal and make a fresh start. Your explanation of how open grade base accommodates water and potentially it's expansion into ice makes sense. I found your channel looking for an alternative to fabricating a paver border and settled on your cement technique. I liked your reference to the master masons and builders of the Roman empire. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and supporting your reasons for and against the methods you mentioned.
@@georgedalton4816 Thank you very much for this great feedback. When I switched to this method 4+ years ago, I did a lot of research and everything I explained is what I learned. Now that I have put it to the test with over a hundred installs, I completely stand by it. I think it is the best method for any natural stone or concrete paver / block project. I'm glad you found the explanation understandable. The romans definitely knew hoe to build things. The roads and paths they made lasted 1000's of years, so modeling my backfill method after theirs seemed like a very smart thing to do.
This country has been laying asphalt, concrete, pavers and bricks on hard packed dense grade for a long time now... And all we have to show for it is deteriorating roads and sidewalks. We need to start building the way the romans did sooner rather than later....
Thanks again for the feedback. I really appreciate it! ✌
being a diy guy ,i found the frost factor very interesting. although less of a problem in my region. having said that loacal road workers will repair pot holes mid winter during the wet. then of course it freezes so we get eruptions
Yea, this backfill method really helps with preventing the pavers from heaving in the winter. And I totally hear you on the damn pot hole repairs. They last a day or 2, that's about it..... Even if you don't deal with frost, this method is extremely helpful for allowing water to drain freely.
I've been studying your process for months now. I've been hand digging a paver patio area and prepping it for this. The place where I ordered the pavers and base wanted me to do the traditional method, but I just can't see how that is any good after seeing several of your videos. I went against their recommendations, and I'm about to tackle this process this week with 3/4 open base! I am very confident as a DIYer, that this is the way to go. I can't wait to tell you about the results. Thank you so much for these videos.
That is really cool! You will not regret going with this method, it always blows my mind how little suppliers / installers use this method. There are so many benefits with no downfalls that I have found. Good luck with your project and thank you very much for the feedback! ✌
I just want to take the time to say thank you!!! Thanks for all the explanations and advice! Can't wait to use this when I build my patio this summer.
You are so welcome, I'm glad the videos are helpful for you. Good luck with your patio build! ✌
Hello from uk, I've been watching your channel a while now. i think this is the best way to lay patio slabs, especially with the stones so much easier to level the sand or cement. Its actually interesting to watch this type of work be done aswell. Keep it 👍
Nice, thanks for the feedback! I totally agree, way better than sand or cement. Glad you like the videos ✌
I went to a local landscaping stone yard the other day here in Florida. They were not familiar with the HPB PBS but they had something that looked very similar. I may just have to grab a few buckets and load up my car for this smaller sitting area patio. After laying about 2 rolls of 16x16 pavers I realized I should probably go another 4" deeper for stone base after watching your videos
It is always pretty surprising how not many landscape supply yards around the country have or know about that type of material. It must just be more popular in freeze / thaw climates.
It certainly would not hurt to go deeper with the base. Although you are in Florida, and won't have the freeze / thaw. It will do nothing but help with drainage of water. Good luck man!✌
Well done my friend. Fantastic workmanship. Thank you for your comprehensive explanations.
Your a very smart guy. We think a lot alike. I am one of the only contractors in this area to use this base.
Nice, There a good handful of others in my area that use it because they see the benefits. But there is more that don't. They refuse to switch from dense grade / sand. I don't understand why, It is clear as day that this method is better... Some old dogs can't learn new trick's..... 🤷♂️✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper either that or they prefer either or both of the negatives in their wallets at the expense of their clients... lol. Less excavation, less grading, less everything except the money coming in.... and, if something lasts a few years, people have been conned into thinking that's just the way it goes... so they call back the culprit every so often and they make money several more times... I'd rather have my work reflect strength, durability, and longevity. Something I can be proud to put my name on, and that someday I can point out to my children and it still is as it was when I built or layed it. It's not the most intelligent thing to do in this society, one where money rules all... but, it's the right thing to do on another level. Something well made, functions correctly, is not only pleasing to the clients and passersby, but its safer for everyone (speaking more to my more common repair jobs restoring historic buildings after careless others have left them now literally collapsing just to earn a quick buck (or, due to pure ignorance or lack of education), but, families live in these homes... its sad.) Funny, I am a convicted felon, and while running this business I have somehow become one of the few who isnt a "crook," some of the stuff I see blows my mind.
But, stubbornness also plays a huge role.
God bless and keep up the good work!
Hey brother, God bless you with great health and plenty of work for your business.
I just found your channel, and I am very glad I did. You got my subscription, lots of awesome tips that I learned from your valuable experience and content. Just bought an acreage in Missouri, and I will apply what I learned here in my paver project for the back yard! Much blessings and love brother.
Thank you very much brother, I appreciate it! I'm glad you are enjoying the channel and that it is helping you out. Good luck with your project, God Bless! ✌
Great video and exactly what I was looking for. I have very dense and heavy clay soil in my area. I plan on making a 20 ft circular paver patio with a fire pit in the middle. The patio will be elevated due to a slight slope I am building on (patio itself will be sloped at 1/8" as well. Learned that from one of your newer videos). My plan is to use concrete blocks that you use for retaining walls that will be a border for the patio, acting as a small step to get onto the patio. The blocks will be capped. How deep do you think I should excavate with my soil conditions? My soil does not drain very well. I was thinking 12"-16". Loving your channeling brother! Best hardscaping channel on YT!
Nice, glad to hear it! This method will be fine for your situation, even with the heavy clay. I think excavating to 12" will be fine. My only advice would be to include a 4" corrugated drainage pipe into the backfill stone and divert it through a trench to a lower grade to make sure the water can escape. In well draining sub soil conditions that is not necessary but with clay, it is better safe than sorry. Thanks for the feedback and good luck with your project!
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks for the reply and drainage tip. It was on my mind to maybe install some corrugated pipe to help with drainage. Its a very inexpensive solution that will just help improve the drainage and give me some peace of mind. Thanks again Kyle!
@@shoe7146 Exactly, my pleasure!✌
Hello! Great videos really enjoy your channel. As a new homeowner I took an interest in doing all sorts of construction work to see how it should be done to last and what scale of projects I can do myself and which will require me to hire outside help. I think having the knowledge how a job should be done allows me to hire a young team and just explaining them exactly what I want. I also feel confident about doing small projects or fixes myself. Your channel and others like it are pure gold and a great resource to save money overall!
Thanks for the feedback! I am glad you find the videos helpful and I wish you luck with all your projects! ✌
I keep coming back to you Kyle!! The best info out there! THANKYOU!
Glad to hear it, thanks for the support!
Thanks for sharing. The open grade base makes a lot of sense, I will try it out this spring.
It is honestly the best method I know. Game changing, You will never go back once you start using it. ✌
Yessir we do our patios the same way brother! 3/4 clean stone with the fabric!!! Love it bro. I’m glad seeing someone else doing it like this!! Great work as always bro!
Nice, you guys are professionals. So no surprise there! LOL. Thanks again brother!✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks bro so are you and for our dry laid work we use a mix we call dry packs it’s 4 sand 1 portaland cement and we mix it dry. Then we lay our units in it and then we hose it down at the end of the day. It works pretty good for drylaid patios
@@maxg9999 oh nice, that's what's up! I used to work with a mason that would do that for bluestone steppers. Help lock them in place. I thought it was a pretty good idea.
Thanks! Doing a home project for an outdoor kitchen. How to you set the layer and level your base material before compacting and then setting up screed rails? Thanks for sharing the information you do!
I've been working on a ~ 7 by 8 foot area for my 1st 16" patio sitting area. Located in FL but I've dug down about 9" I'm not going to compact dirt. I'm going to lay thin amount of the base stone on the plain ground, hand tamp, add fabric and then add more of the clean stone. (Do we hand tamp again before adding paver base?) I'll measure pavers then see how much paver base I can add on top and I grabbed a couple steel bars for screed. This will be quite the accomplishment for me when I get it done as I've only done one other smaller paver area that has held up well. I'll keep in mind the pitch for water drainage. Your videos have helped so I'll see how it turns out.
You are spot on with all of it. Once you lay the fabric and backfill to height with the clean stone, yes, tamp it to settle the stones tight. Then lay your steel bars and add the bedding material. You can use the bedding material under the bars to get the correct pitch. Then screed and lay the pavers!
Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad the videos were helpful. Good luck! ✌🏻
Thank you for all the knowledge you're spreading. I have area with tree roots and I don't wanna dig and damage the roots. What would happen if I use retaining wall blocks or concrete as the border and use 2 inch geo grid to hold the base material compact, lay fabric, add bedding material and lastly lay the pavers. since the geo grid resist movement wouldn't the pavers stay in place?
No problem. Do you mean you are going to build it as a raised patio? Is that why you want to use the wall block on the edges? If so, yes, that is a great way to not damage roots and the geo grid will definitely help stabilize the base stone. Just keep in mind that you need a couple inches at least on top of the roots so that the blocks / pavers don't start moving after a couple years of the tree growing.
Great video, watching from Ohio. Of course I just found this video after constructing my base using 411 crushed lime stone mostly as the backfill. Maybe for the front yard when I do the walkway up there I will try your method I guess here in the back I’m just gonna have to make sure I get the slope a little steeper so the water will drain away? God bless brother.
Thank you, keeping a strong slope is always good to keep the water away. Good luck with the front, this method will not let you down. God Bless ✌
Looking forward to the next part of this series!!
This was a sweet project, A little bit of everything. Thanks for the feedback!
I'm doing a small 10' x 10' paver patio install out here in California, not in a freezing climate. Should I still go with the open grade base and 1/8" bedding stone instead of road base and sand? I have a hard clay based soil. I already laid a half a yard of road base down. Thank you. Love your channel and quality content!
Nice, I would definitely still recommend this base prep method for a warm climate. It is very helpful with drainage so the benefits are still there for you. Also, the bedding stone is 3/8" clean, crushed stone. Sometimes you can find 1/4" but 1/8" is very small... Good luck!
Thank you for the prompt response. I have one more for ya. Should I use plywood between the plate compactor and the pavers? I have 3 piece blue stone 2 5/8" pavers with a textured top.
@@king4brisbane No problem, you should definitely use something to protect the pavers from the compactor. A dense foam or rubber that does not scuff is best but plywood would work. Only problem with plywood is sometimes the wood breaks into small pieces that can make a mess...
I've watched a few of your videos. I'm converted now. I've subscribed. You are the ONLY construction related channel I know that explains why you do what you do for base. Your stuff is the right stuff.
My question: The first layer that goes over the natural soil that is compacted into the base must be about 1 inch or so as I see the ground soil embedding within the 3/4" rock. The second 'lift' is much larger 4-6" or so. Is that correct?
That's great to hear, I appreciate the feedback! And you are right on the money with your understanding. Here is a link to the fabric that I use 👉srwproducts.com/product/ss5-woven-fabric/
Great channel. Beautiful work.
I am planning on a DIY project for a paver sidewalk and step.
I am curious as to whether the size/weight of the plate compactor needed for the job matters?
Thank you! You can use any size smaller compactor for foot traffic only applications. I even use a hand tamper on some smaller projects. So whatever you can get your hands on will work for that project. Good luck with your project!
Thank you, bro! Definitely you are a pro.
Will this method work in areas where subsoil is only clay?
My pleasure, thank you! And yes this method will work with clay subsoil. But if you are building it in the lowest grade of an area, you may need to add a drain pipe from the base stone to another area to divert the water.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thank you!🙏🏽
You’re awesome dude! THANK YOU for sharing this valuable information! I would love to only do hardscaping if I could learn a lot from you!
Happy to share as much info as I can. I love this work and hope to do it for a long time..... ✌
Hi Christian - I see your skid steer bucket doesn't have teeth. I am planning to rent same but wondering will it be able to dig 10-12 inches of dirt? Please advise. Thank you for all your hard work.
It should be able to, but it honestly depends on the soil you have. Some jobs are easier to excavate then others based on that. If you run into a lot of rocks, that machine will have a tougher time digging without teeth on it. But if it is loam / sandy, it will dig it out no problem.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks Kyle. Sure I will give a try. Also, have you ever posted any video on how to build retaining wall, I couldn't find any such. Please do share if you have it.
Hi there, We will be trying to build a DIY patio, but we’re going to use both travertine pavers, as well as the concrete pavers. Do you know if this method also works for the travertine? Thanks in advance! LOVE LOVE LOVE your videos! They are very clear, and very easy for those of us who are new to this, to understand!
Hello, That sounds like a fun project! This method certainly will work with travertine. I'm glad the videos have been helpful and I wish you the best of luck!
What do you mean two 4 to 5 inches lifts? Please explain in details about it. ❤ 14:41
Christian, how would you modify your method if you were doing a patio on top of a drainage pit? I’m doing a patio with permeable pavers with a design of 1’ deep of 2.5” crushed stones as a storm water drainage below the 6” of 3/4 crushed stone. Essentially the whole patio is also a storm water recharge tank. Would you put the fabric between the 2.5” and 3/4” layers? Thanks for your videos.
Sounds like a nice project. The fabric would probably help prevent the stone from migrating, so yea, I would use the fabric for sure. Good luck!
Thanks!
What layer do you slope away from the house when you’re doing a patio
Every layer. We slope the sub soil, base stone and bedding stone. ✌
U are the best.
can you do a video on how you get your elevations.
I'll be going over it in the next couple videos ✌
I’ve been doing landscape maintenance full-time for the last 4 years. I’m pretty sick of it but it pays the bills. I’ve wanted to do hardscape installs for a while now. I’m scared to get a job and do it wrong. Any ideas for hands on training? I work for myself so I just don’t think I could make enough working for someone else to pay my bills.
That is cool that your are working for yourself, I did maintenance for many years before I switched to hardscaping. I learned by working for other companies but if you do not want to do that, I recommend selling some small projects. Little walkways or a basic square / rectangle patio. That way the risk is small and if you follow these videos, I can almost guarantee you will have no problems. As far as pricing for them, you just need to take some time figuring out the cost of materials in your area and combine that with your labor rate and overhead. You may not be perfect at pricing in the beginning but that and the experience just comes with time. Good luck brother! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks for the response! Your videos are great they’re really making me feel more confident in selling a job. We will see in the next few weeks. Wishing you and ole Benny a great 2024!
I'm starting a paver project in my backyard where an above ground pool was. The soil underneath is really sandy. What should be my 1st layer to backfill? I also need to raise the grade up about 12". Could you recommend what my layers of materials should be? Thanks for doing these DIY videos. You do some nice work and really explain things well.
I would recommend this exact method for sandy soils. Sandy soil is excellent to have under pavers, you will never have water issues. Just be sure to spread the thin layer of stone and compact before the geotextile fabric. Then follow the steps of this video.
These videos are great, keep up the great work brother!
Glad you are enjoying them, plenty more to come! ✌
Great video very informative. When calculating how many pavers you will need when using a set pattern does anything change, say I have a 10x10 patio (100sqft) (20 sqft for border) do I just go to the supplier and ask for 80 sqft of let’s say pattern B witch is 3 different sized pavers. And then ask for 20 sqft of 1 regular paver for border? TIA
It really depends on the pavers and the pattern. You need to check the spec sheet of the pavers you are buying and the specs of the pattern in that same sheet. If the pattern is from the manufacturer, they will have a ratio for you to follow. Then you need to figure that out on your own with the supplier. I typically do not follow patterns. I usually use 3 piece design pavers and lay randomly. As long as you follow a few basic rules of laying randomly, you will have no issues.
What kind of pattern are you planning to go with?
Hey Kyle! Great video. What is the difference between 3/4 concrete crush and 3/4 crushed stone? Is the 3/4 crushed concrete the old method you discussed earlier in the video?
3/4 crushed concrete is much weaker than stone. It will break down quicker and has too much dust in it, which restricts water flow unlike clean, crushed stone.
The old method I used was using (Dense Grade) for the base material, which is 3'4 inch crushed stone minus. Meaning it is made up of 3/4 stone, stone dust and sand fine particles. This material gets compacted every couple inches as you backfill. Then we would use sand for the bedding material to lay pavers on. I have found that method is inferior because water has a very hard time traveling through it and draining into the sub soil.
This method is made up of a (3/4 "clean" crushed stone) meaning it has no stone dust, sand or fine particles mixed in, allowing water to flow through freely and drain into the sub soil very easily. Then we use a 3/8 inch "clean" crushed stone for the bedding material that we lay pavers onto. Which again, has no stone dust, sand or fines in it, allowing water to travel through freely. That is key to paver installs, making sure no water sits in the base beneath the pavers. This method assures that.
Not sure if you've answered another comment or not, if i dont have a big vehicle bucket, how can i 'compact' the subsoil
You can use a hand tamper / compactor, just be sure to spread the thin layer of stone 1st.
I've been loving the educational videos on your channel and appreciate you guys. I plan to start a patio for my house this Fall following your steps. I have a question though. In certain videos you compact intial layer of 3/4 stone, lay the geotextile, then lay more 3/4 inch stone. In this video you didnt compact the second layer of stone, but I've seen you do it in other videos. Is it better to compact the second layer of stone or should i just compact the first layer?
Glad to hear the videos have been helpful! We do compact the second layer of stone, I did not show that in this vide but we did compact the top layer once we got the grade to the correct height.
Do you use the same 6" base for your walls as well?
Yes I do, sometimes I will use 8-10 inches under the blocks depending on the soil conditions. but yes, same method ✌
Show me where to start with the first row of pavers. How to do the square the pavers with the house.
I made a video recently on how to do that. Check it out by clicking this link right here 👉ua-cam.com/video/lWNitowC_k4/v-deo.html
Just like watching guys how take Pride in there work .👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
✌
Hi enjoying your videos as a DIY project for our home in VA plan on doing pavers and no circles to avoid cutting stone. We plan on doing two end walk way and front and back.. You have been a blessing in sharing content. Prayerfully my husband and I can pull it off. Jesus take the wheel, lead & guides us thru. God's blessings.
That sounds like a very fun project, I'm sure you both will be able to pull it off! Just takes a good plan and plenty of research. I'm glad my videos are helping with giving you confidence. And the faith in God giving you the strength and wisdom is key, anything is possible with Him by your side. God Bless and good luck! ✌
What do you mean of 98 percent compacted?Thank you 14:16 Based on from your video, if I understand correctly,
When you dump 3/ 4 crushed stones under 6 inches, the crushed stones self compacted 98 % by themselves
When over 6 inches , using compactor go though TWO times?
Yes, when you dump and spread the 3/4 stone, it is 98% compacted already up to 6 inches. Meaning when you compact, you are just tightening it up the rest of the way. That percentage decreases rapidly after 6 inches. So say you need 8 inches of 3/4 stone. You should spread out 4 inches then compact, then spread the remaining 4 inches and get it to the correct height, then compact again.
If you are using 5-6 inches of 3/4 stone, just dump and spread to the correct height and compact only once 👍🏻
@@TheChristianHardscaper really appreciate
hello and thank you for the videos, i cannot find the open grade base gravel anywhere in my area...everyone has #57that looks too large to compact well and CR-6 which has the stone dust in it that you avoid for drainage reasons.....the kicker is that the edges of my driveway from under the pavement appears to be exactly what you are describing. is there an "stone number" or grade that would be easier to find? would 4 inches of 57 and 2 inches of CR-6 work as well with #8 bedding layer. Thanks again for your video help very well done.
No problem, I'm sorry you are having a hard time finding this material. But #57 is very comparable to what I use here. It may be a little dustier than the stone I use but it is clean, crushed stone. Which would be considered open grade base.
On the bedding material, you need something with no dust or fines. If not, the dust and fines will migrate into the base stone, causing sinking / shifting in the future. I would recommend calling around for 3/8 inch crushed (Pea Stone). Most aggregate yards sell something like that. It may not be considered (Chip Stone) but if it is clean, crushed stone that is less than a 1/2 inch, you will be all set.
Worst case scenario, use #57 for the base, then lay fabric and spread the CR-6 you are talking about over it. That will prevent the bedding material from migrating. ✌
What are some reasons/situations where you would have to dig 15 inch? Thanks!
If you had very dense clay as a subsoil, digging deeper helps allow water to drain. Also for vehicular traffic paver applications. You want a deeper / stronger base when prepping for vehicular traffic. ✌
how has your experience been with the mt100? overall happy with it?
That machine is excellent. It is surprisingly strong and very smooth. Not sure I would ever buy a Bobcat, They are over priced in my opinion, but as a rental, could not be more happy with it. I have used it on numerous jobs now and has been extremely helpful. ✌
Why do you lay fabric perpendicular to the walkways?
Why not run a 6’ fabric the long way down a 4’ walkway?
The 6' was not quite enough to go up both side of the walkway excavation. You really want to make sure it goes up the sides and that is the best way. Plus it helps with drainage to have more seems for the water to drain through.
Great video,
Thank you sir.
No problem, thank you!
Have you ever used gator base
I have, but not a big fan of it. I always try to excavate to a proper depth. Not sure I agree with replacing the excavation depth with a piece of foam....
Thanks!
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I can’t seem to find anywhere in my area that has 3/4 inch clean base material. I’m a homeowner that can’t afford to pay for landscaping so I’m looking to get as much info as possible
Dang, really? It is a very common building material. Were you calling landscape supply yards?
@@TheChristianHardscaper yeah. They say that they are not responsible for fines. That it could be up to 25 percent fines. It’s ridiculous
@@roberto.gallegos wow.... that's wild. I would maybe call a concrete producer in the area. That is a key component to making concrete for foundations, walkways and driveways. They need that clean crushed stone for sure. Maybe you can get some through them or they will point you to someone who does have it...,.
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks. I’ll do that. I’ll ask them about the chip stone too. What size is that?
@@TheChristianHardscaper also, thanks for your videos. They are very informative and have helped me a lot.
When you say minimum 4 inches of 3/4 crush rock, in areas that do not freeze, do you mean two inches crushed into the subbase, then the geotextile fabric, then another two inches on top of that? Or is 4 inches on top of the 2 inches under the geotextile fabric?
I typically don't count the thin layer under the fabric. That is only about in inch and even les when compacted into the sub soil. You want a minimum of 4" on top of the fabric. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaperThanks for that. In future videos, you might want to express the dimensions of the base as "X inches of 3/4" crush rock *ABOVE* the geotextile fabric"
I’m going to use the blu 80mm techo block paver, (not a pattern just a random pattern) which consists of 3 different sized pavers one’s a small rectangle ones the Square, and one’s a larger rectangle, if I need 80sqft of the pavers do I just ask for 80 sq ft and they will do the calculations or do I need to break down the total size of each different paver and ask for the needed blocks? The pavers will be later randomly and not in a pattern. TIA
Ok, so techo bloc will already have all 3 sizes on the pallet. Each layer will have a certain amount of each size. So yes, you just need to order the square footage.
The only thing I would say is that if you’re just doing a patio, I would go with the Techo bloc blu 60. Not the blu 80. The 80 is 3-1/8 inches thick and designed for driveways. The Blu 60 is 2 3/8 inches thick and design for foot traffic. ( patios / walkways ) it is the same design and same sizes as the Blu 80, just not as thick. It will save you money and save your back when laying them… LOL.
The other advice would be to get 5-10 extra sq ft in case some break during the install or in the future, causing you to have to replace them. I almost always get a broken piece or 2 on every pallet. Same goes for the border, get a few more than you need.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks a lot I appreciate your help, have a great day.
@@theoceaneerz9883 No problem, you as well! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper For your bedding rock you use 3/8 in chip stone,
Is 3/8in virgin rock crushed rock#8 the same thing?
It sounds like the same, just make sure it’s clean stone with the fines removed. But it sounds right
Do you recommend this for Northeast Ohio as well?
Absolutely. This is excellent for any part of the country ✌
Good job, thanks
No problem 👍
Hi Kyle, this video has lots of helmet cam swinging back and forth and it is making me dizzy watching it. Helmet cam is not bad for up close work but too much in this video. Recommend using a stand for larger overview camera shot when working in a large area. I seen you used those camera stands in other videos.
Thank you very much for the honest feedback. They say for every comment, many others are thinking it but don't mention it. So I really appreciate you telling me how you feel and I will keep that in mind for the future. ✌
Hi Kyle I thought I was leaving a comment, turns out to be a reply with resourcefulgirl.
No problem, I did see it and responded. Thanks!
What type of soil do you guys have in your area?
We have quite a few different soil types here in Massachusetts. This particular job is mainly sand / gravel. Some projects are done in areas that have a lot of top soil, But we run into clay like soils and often as well.
@TheChristianHardscaper do you use the same base in clay soil?
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Youre pushing that wheelbarrow full of 57 stone like it's nothing. Thats some heavy sh..
Those wheelbarrows are nice and strong, that helps ✌