ADOX HR-50 Review (How sharp?)
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- In this video I shoot 2 rolls of ADOX HR-50 through my Canon EOS 30 (Elan 7E) & Canon AE-1. My primary goal is to test the sharpness and "lack" of grain. I used the ADOX FX-39II developer and took photo's in Ruigoord, Amsterdam Westpoort and Wormerveer.
Website ADOX
www.adox.de
Datasheet ADOX HR-50
www.fotoimpex....
Thanks for this interesting overview, supported by some great images. I'm a few rolls through a bulk roll of HR50, which I'm developing in Adox HRDev. Liking it so far.
Thanks for the video and overview of the film. Appreciated. But I the strange advice to protect the highlights - as a film shooter you shall know that exposure controls your shadows and development controls the high values on the film. So I would advise to stick to this and just reduce the development a bit if you see that high values are not satisfactory with detailing.
Thanks!!! Just saw this film here in Brazil , and i was really curious to see how it looks like. And i really liked it
All in all a nice film!
Could be interesting to do a head to head with the PanF plus from Ilford... both 50 speed, both traditional films.
You call it digital, I call it mediumformat on 135... it really defines your lenses!
I've shot a few rolls of HR-50, agree a yellow filter is helpful with the film. And I much prefer the results from those negatives developed in FX-39II over HRDEV. Great overview of this underrated film!
Interesting. I might check out this film.
Super content, thank you, very interesting.
The apparent lack of grain is mainly to the scanner you are using. I have an Epson V700, and it too produced scans of 35 mms film with much less grain than my Nikon Coolscan ED. The Nikon easily resolved the grain pattern even with the CMS20 ii, which is supposed to be grainless. If possible find yourself a dedicated film scanner.
Nice video. Thanks for sharing this information! It just so happens, that I ordered some rolls to test it against the CMS 20 II in the field and I expect this nice and much better response to color filters, like you mention here. You show some very nice examples with the yellow filter :) Regarding the blown out highlights there are some very good comments already that might point to the cause.
Thank's!
Great review. I'll have to order some, when in stock at BH Photo. How do you find those cameras , so cheap ? Amazing.
Thank's Ken! Finding these camera's for these prices is difficult, to say the least! On average I score maybe once every 3-4 months!
Wait!!!!
There is a misconception here about the highlights... Ansel Adams teaches us that if your highlights are without detail, you didn't over expose but you over developed.
Look at the shadows...
If they are good and rich in detail (wich they are) you can assume the the film reaches it's sensitivity displayed on the box and cannister. If the highlights are still washed-out it means that the blacks in the negative are too dense.
This can be corrected by adjusting the developing time. Not by elevating the asa speed. That would affect the shaddow details in a bad way.
Take approx 10%off of the develop time and you will be good.
I will explain how this works in a video if you will...
Thank's Hans, good topic for a next video! Let's go for it!
@@ThePhotographyMinimalist no problem... bring it on!
👏👏👏
I’ve got to find some of this film! Is that Banding I see in the video from your prints or from scanning?
You have a sharp eye! It is banding from scanning! I really need to either get another scanner or use a high res digital camera!
@John Burgess That's a good one! You are very right...
I'd imagine the low dmax of that scanner is what is causing your blown highlights. I used to think I had blown highlights with my 4180, but then when I rescanned my 120 negs with my v850 suddenly details came through
Thanks for your input! I will look into it!
Really enjoyed your video. Do you think the film would work well on cloudy day to bring the contrast down?
A cloudy day is likely to already be lower contrast (than a cloudless day).
Is that a Mamiya 135?
Sorry to disappoint you, it is a Ricoh 800 EES...
Thank you for the video! You need impove soung quality
Thank's for the tip!
Your scans aren't sharp on my 24" (60cm) class monitor which IS sharp and they aren't FULL SCREEN! I also can't double-click and enlarge the image to study the grain structure (low-res scanning). I would provide a 50X microscopic scan of ANY film's grain structure if I were doing a review. This would be equal to about a 48"x 72" enlargement, or "poster print" which I used to make DAILY for $15.95 in B&W or $29.95 in COLOR when I worked for a commercial photo finisher! BTW, a Kodak Wratten #11 yellow filter should be used with ANY B&W TYPE B sensitivity film outdoors at ALL times to correct for the excess UV and blue sensitivity of the emulsion. 99.9% of all B&W films coated are TYPE B Panchromatic sensitivity (which see-goggle it!)
To test a camera film's SHARPNESS, you need a camera/lens combination that is a benchmark. A Canon SLR is one. You need a Leica M2, M3, M4, M4/2 with an F2 Rigid Summicron Rare Earth Version. This combination is known as the absolute SHARPEST camera/lens for pictorial work ever made in optical tests. Mounted on a 20 pound tripod and used with cable release to prevent induced movement, this camera/lens will produce 60 x200 FOOT enlargements that for years graced NY City's Grand Central Station. Get REAL if you are going to CLAIM to TEST!!! Some of us KNOW what Kodak Panatomic-X and Illford Pan-F and Old Agfa 25 and now Rollei 25 will do. Before you were conceived, I was using ADOX 18 with it's ortho-panchromatic (Type A) sensitivity!