Inside the Wolverine Movie Maker
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 тра 2017
- This video takes a look on the inside of the Wolverine MovieMaker as it is running to see if stopping the reels does any damage to the machine. You can see the Film to digital movie maker running in rewind and how the clutch to the reels to digital movie maker works.
Many of the brands I reference on this channel have product links that are affiliate links, which means if you buy something I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
To Amazon 720P machine.
amzn.to/3cJ12xu
To Amazon 1080P machine.
amzn.to/36G2k8n
To the Wolverine MovieMaker-Pro 1080P machine, directly from Wolverine, usually cost about $20.00 less than other places with a coupon at the store, or you can call Wolverine directly at 949-458-9888
www.wolverinedata.com/product...
To Wolverine 720P machine, directly from Wolverine, usually cost about $20.00 less than other places with a coupon at the store or you can call Wolverine directly at 949-458-9888
wolverinedata.com/products/ne...
DISCLAIMER: I am an affiliate for many of the brands I reference on this channel. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for your informative review! Now that I know how that take-up reel clutch works, I can see that mine has locked up after processing 15 ~three inch reels. The happened to another user per his review, also after 15 reels!. I am returning it for exchange tomorrow, since it has been less than 30 days. Thanks again.
Glad you found that useful. If you haven't seen my video on copying 7" reels where I explain how to zoom all the way out when copying and then zoom in using cropping features in video editing software. I plan on doing a video on how to crop the videos afterwards. Watch for it, I hope to have it this week sometimes. I think you will find it very informative and might want to copy that way. I am surprised you are having problems with the clutch because all it is is a spring that pushes against a washer. I can't imagine how they messed that up in the factory. However, the make them buy the thousands so some will have problems. Sorry, you are having that problem but at least you can get it exchanged. Ron from super8tovideo.
Yes it has become a very snug fit. Maybe the end of the spring has dug into the grey plastic "hub". Thanks again. Since the shaft has to turn faster than the hub and the fit is tight, there is a sound like teeth of two gears slipping. But in this case it must be the belt or something else.
Got the new unit so I'll continue scanning and see how long it lasts. It seemed to be binding too tightly on the shaft for some reason. If it was out of warranty I might be tempted to add a tiny bit of silicone oil or other lightweight oil. Too much and it won't pull the film through the loops!
Glad you got the unit I suggest you try contrast on low and light on zero for most films but if they are too dark I find brightening them with plus 1. If that makes the film to bright then I darken it in Video Studio Pro or run the film through the Wolverine again at plus .5 I always zoom all the way out on the Wolverine and then zoom in using video studio pro that way I can get the entire picture but it does give up a little resolution. I have never been able to see the resolution difference. I am using a 43 inch monitor so that is small by today's tv's so maybe then the resolution difference would be noticeable.
Thanks - I'm just happy to have ANYTHING. My first conversion was of a 1950's 8mm film of my birth, filmed before, during and after birth, by the surgeon boss of my mother, who worked in his office as a RN. (Employee perks) :)
Hi! I need some help, hope you'll know what to do... my Wolverine won't start either, I've worked with it for a whole year, 500+ files and today it just didn't start at all, I hold the power button and nothing happens, any idea about how to solve this issue?
I have never had this happen to me. I do wonder though if maybe your transformer to the Wolverine may be bad. I am leaving you the phone number to Wolverine tech department they may have an idea for you. Here is there phone number. 949-458-9888 I would ask to talk to Mat if you can good luck
The speed, after scanning with some 8mm film scanners, is higher than the original speed.
For some, after scanning for Mp4, it should be reduced to around -60%.
Is that also the case for the Wolverine?
Yes that is the same for the Wolverine. It is different speed for 8mm and super 8 film. 8mm needs a change of .533 because it is shot at 16 frames a second and super 8 is shot at 18 frames a second. If you need to know more here is a link to a video I did on this subject it tells the different speeds for the various cameras even some of beat formats that were used in the 40s and 50s. you can skip to 2 minutes into the video to see the various speeds you will need use after copying from the Wolverine. Here is the link ua-cam.com/video/1VLei8qQp_M/v-deo.html
Hi,
thanks for your videos in wolverine.
I have just received the same machine sold as somikon and after a couple of reels sometimes I have the same issue shown at 2':50'' of your video.
I think that probably the problem is that some frame are not correctly aligned during capturing, but I didnt have enough time to check and test again.
Have you find a possible solution ?
Double check that the film is under the two white tabs when you are loading it. It can come out from under the white tabs pretty easily. I usually pull on the film a little forwards and backwards about 1 inch to make sure it moves smoothly and stays under the tabs before I shut the film gate. After closing the film gate I pull it a little to make sure the film is laying flat. I have found that some film copies more stable if I do not really follow directions and have it go under the two roller pins and then straight up into the take up reel without looping back around the third roller pin. I can tell you make sure the two screws that hold the spring loaded shiny metal on the film gate have not come loose. The screws only need to be barely tightened because you can strip them pretty easily. Do not take these screws out because it took me over two hours to put them back in with the springs. It may look like a simple thing to remove these screws and put them back but it is not. I am supposed to get a new machine in a week or so and plan on doing a video on all the causes that I know of but am waiting for the machine before I do this film. Hope that helps Ron of super8tovideo
I successfully completed 21 min reel following your suggestion.
The movie quality is good but unfortunately there was some dust and there are some grey area on the image.
I have to build something to clean the film before start capturing
I always take an artist paint brush to the brightly lite square area below where the film passes above. I then blow with my mouth to make sure it is clean before I start a film. It may be that your film is dirty but I usually have found on my films it is in the bright area below where the film travels that the dirt is falling down into. The camera that takes the picture is up above the the film. There is a piece of glass below where the film travels that may need cleaning by a paint brush. I have never used any liquids to clean the glass and would suggest not using an liquids because if the liquid were to flow around to the back side of the glass I do not think it can be cleaned without taking apart more than I would want to take apart. Good luck Ron of super8tovideo
I just received my Wolverine a few days ago, and I've started working my way through an assortment of 8mm reels of various sizes (3,5 and 7 inch) vintage 1950s era which I inherited from my parents. The results with the 3-inch reels were satisfactory. But with the first 5-inch reel, I got good results for the first couple of minutes (real minutes of film running time). But the rest was completely ruined by extreme flutter. Unfortunately I was overconfident due to the early good results and so didn't discover the extreme flutter until after babysitting the machine for a couple of hours. Now, I'm stopping about every 20 minutes to see the results on the SD card. Following your suggestion, I have skipped the two loops, and that seems to be working so far. I can't afford to waste any more hours babysitting the machine, only to discover catastrophic results. The tape will also periodically stop feeding due to getting hung up on a bad splice. So restarting in that case is to be expected. I'm thinking that some sort of cumulative problem may be at work, since ithe problem seems always to arise after some period of time with the longer tapes. I may need to do more tape cleaning. I don't actually understand the best way to do that. I'll be interested to see what else you discover about this distressing problem.
Ah, I think what my dad did was to film everything on 3-inch reels, then splice them together copiously and badly into the larger reels. Every time, almost without fail, the Wolverine gets hung up on those bad splices. Grrrr !!! :-)
Black and white films I have seen on UA-cam that were made using this machine show many digital artifacts. So many that I chose not to buy it. However, one video I saw on a Facebook group, a video copy of film that was black and white, looked good. The author said it was due to an output setting?
When the Wolverine first came out you could not change the light setting or the contrast which the Wolverine calls sharpness. If you copy with high contrast to me the picture can look pretty bad. I have not done black and white films so I can not speak how they may look. I suspect thou the person out put the film with high contrast. I always use low contrast. The original Wolverine put out in medium contrast. There are only 3 contrast settings at the moment high, medium, and low. Hope that helps Ron of super8tovideo.
I suspect that it depends on the contrast and light settings that the Wolverine is set to that can make a lot of difference. I haven't had problems with black and white films but like with all films the light settings can make a big difference. I always copy with contrast set to low. Thanks for the comment Ron of super8tovideo.
Ron - Regards the "flutter" that you have seen on your WOLVERINE digitized films - I have too been plagued by this & have done quite a bit of trial/error to determine what causes it. This includes trying a lighter duty spring in the take-up spindle and even substituting external feed and takeup sprockets. Now the good part - If you look deep inside the mechanism you will see that there is a wheel that acts as a camshaft. As it rotates it causes the claw to advance 1 frame at a time. When you manually turn the mechanism - you will see how this wheel is thicker on one side and thinner on the other, causing it to activate the claw mechanism. I put some high quality grease onto this wheel where it contacts the claw mechanism. Jumpy footage totally gone!! No need to disassemble anything - just apply via that longer slotted opening. I feel confident that this will help in your case too. Don't know just where you would get this grease - I've had mine for years. It was used to lubricate tape recorder mechanisms but was appropriate here.......................Dave Malinaric in Pgh........................
Dave I have been gone for a while that is why it has taken me so long to reply. I really appreciate the information and other readers will find your comment useful as well. I believe I have some sewing machine oil that will do the trick. If I understand you correctly you just put the oil on the claw and it will drip down into the moving cam without taking anything apart. I have lately been using a new machine that copies in 1080 P. So I haven't had such an issue lately, I have discovered that sometimes it is in the film itself because it has curled a little over the years. Not all film but just some films do this to me it usually shows up at the bottom of the picture. I want to put out another video on the inside of the machine, the manufaturer of these machines no longer use the belt system. I took my 1080P version apart and I see they use a gear box now. I am going to try and see if that works with my old Wolverine sounds like a good simple idea. Thank you so much Ron of super8tovideo
I encountered similar jitter (screen tearing). But, it showed up on the top of the screen, instead. I believe the problem is memory write speed. After I purchased a faster "UltraPlus'' (up to 130MB/s read speed, 10MB/s write speed, V10, UHS-1) SDHC chip, I no longer noticed the tearing. This device is limited to 32GB memory cards. Perhaps the faster UHS-3 might be a good choice, too.
@@papasvoice Fragmented SD card can cause this as well. Avoid changing file names or deleting files to free up space on the SD card using a computer and format the card in the unit when space is needed. Standard practice for me is to format the card from the menu, scan, copy files to PC, format the card before starting to scan again.
I am sorry for the late response but I had medical issues. Thank you for the tip. In case you have the problem again, I have since found out that formatting the card sometimes fixes the issue as well. I wore out two cards even formatting them will not fix the problem but a new SD card fixed the problem. I know it sounds weird, but the card can be the problem often.
Yes, it is very often in the card usually formatting the card will fix the problem. Format the card on the machine and if that does not work format it on a computer and use the full format on the computer.
How long ago did you buy the Wolverine because I have not seen that? Thanks for the information. Ron of super8tovideo
I do not know why I did not receive your message until today. I guess windows took my google chrome over and some messages come to microsoft edge. You are correct I have a new machine now and they use a gear box instead of a belt. Thanks for the heads up unfortunately it came to me via microsoft edge. I have google set up as the default browser but I think microsoft edge changes it when it does its automatic updates. Sorry for the delay in responding. Ron of super8tovideo.
Mine must me a different, probably newer, version. It doesn't have antes rubber parts. Insted, looks like being direct driven by a motor...
Econ you are correct the new machines use a gearbox instead of the belt. Sorry for the delay in responding to you but microsoft edges is where I found this message instead of my default browser Google chrome. I never even looked in edge until today and discovered a bunch of messages I did not know were sent. Ron of super8tovideo.
Took the screws out, but spent the afternoon trying to take the back off. Wouldn't budge. What now? The top part (of the back) is relatively loose, but the bottom is impossible. I can look inside the top and I can see that there isn't a rubber belt to drive the takeup reel. I have a non-Pro just like you show here, but no belt.
I just now took mine apart to double check it was as easy as I remembered. I can tell you that I did no prying at all and I mean none. Make sure that all seven screws are out on a table. I tried using a cordless drill but had problems getting the screws completely out. I also had trouble when I used a screwdriver that was a little small. Five of the screws are deeply set you need a flashlight to see them in the hole. Hope this helps let me know you got this note. Hope that helps Ron of Super8tovideo.
@@super8tovideo Thanks for the reply.Even though I removed the seven screws, it feels like there is still something holding the back on. I was able to pry the top part loose using screwdrivers at the edges. I know this was not good but I was getting desperate.Small screws were set too deeply, couldn't see them with the screwdriver in place blocking the view. I finally used a cordless drill to make the screwholes a little bigger. After getting the screws out, the back still was not loose. I Then finally gave up. Maybe I'll try again some sweet day.
This is the phone number to Wolverine help line, it is also who you would call to order any replacement parts. Hope the people at the other end of the number can help you. 949-458-9888
I am glad your had a good "scanner"; and same for those who brag on it below. Sadly, that was NOT the case when I got mine. It had several problems that were more than aggravating. I won't bore you with what; only to say that I sent it back. To me it is a piece of junk and way OVER priced.
Good luck to those who like it. Sadly, there are many that had problems like I had.
For what it's worth.
Sad to here that you ended up with a lemon.
Just got one. The gate is too tight, causing a knocking noise in the gears or something. Holding the film down gently, on either side of the gate, with the gate up, it runs smoothly. But when I click the gate back down, it has problems advancing the film. I wrote to W customer service.
are you sure you don't have it in between 8mm and super 8. I mean the lever is not quite locking in in either super 8 or 8mm. I would try moving it back and forth a few times and see if it just doesn`t need to be worn in or something.That is the only thing I can think of hope that helps Ron of Super 8 to video.
I just got the same problem after digitizing 15 or so reels... it's also damaging the film as the lever mechanism tries to push the film through!
Sergey Ratakhin Its working much better now. I don't know why. I've captured about 43 home movies. Most of those were longer reels made of many smaller reels spliced together.
Good for you. I found what's causing my issues. The screws inside the springs get too loose and it creates extra pressure on the film so it gets stuck. Adjusted the screws but they became loose by the end of another reel again :(
Seen the new hack to double the bitrate?
EspressoBuzz Espressobuzz Do you have more info on the bitrate hack?
EspressoBuzz Espressobuzz
I would be very interested to know what it is.
Can you point me to it?
No, I have not seen the hack
Sorry I didn't see these other replies sooner. I had found a hacked version of the firmware but then I was dissatisfied with it. I can't remember why. I think it only changed FPS, but did not improve resolution at all.
I have found the 1080 p very confusing because the Wolverine actually copies in 1440 by 1080 in a 4 by 3 format. To make it worse Sony put out a digital camera that copied 1440 by 1080 but had rectangular pixels so their files were 16 by 9. I suspect other cameras did the same thing because I see 1440 by 1080 but interlaced 60i in VideoStudio selections. So do not feel bad this tech stuff can get very confusing.
HOW TO BUY THIS OLD MODEL WOLVERINE WITH BELT? MY WOLWERINE NEW WITH DIRECT MOTOR 720 AND 1080 PRO AFTER 3 MINYT STOP AND DOESNT WORK CHINA GARBAGE, LOST MONEY PLEASE HELP TO FIND GOOD WOLVERIN, WORKING NORMALLY. THANKS.
I can tell you that they no longer make the belt drive system. Wolverine went through a drive that had a problem with the pen holding the gears in them. Been wanting to put out a video on this, because I had two machines that broke with this system. However, you can by a new gear system that is exactly the same as the Wolverine Pro system. I can tell you I was impressed with this new system it weighed twice what the problem system had. I had a feeling that whoever, made this new system went overboard to make sure that they would not have that problem ever again. I have had mine for more than a year now and I do not think it will ever be the problem in my machines now there may be other problems though. If I remember correctly I paid roughly $40.00 for it. Here is the phone number to Wolverine if you wish to purchase the new part. 949-458-9888 I can tell you it is a very easy replace if you work on mechanical things.
@@super8tovideo THANKS. FOR. INFO, I. WILL TRY IT. AGAIN, THANK. YOU. VERY. MUCH.