This method only suits certain kinds of projects where the consistency of result is unimportant, where inconsistencies are perhaps interesting. I have processed lots of B&W in Lomo tanks and metal spiral tanks and had no trouble with film surfaces contacting, etc. You really have to consider the appropriate processing system for the style of project you are doing. Lomo tanks are still around...
This process suits the beginner and people who are shooting for fun. Of course the person shooting 8 super 8 or 16 professionally have the equipment and resources to do it right. This is what makes it accessible and stops the format from dying.
how does the 16mm intermediate film come out to look???im really interested as i have got 8000 feet of this kodak film for nothing,,kodak says it can be used as capture stock,,but EI is 4,,,that means lot of light,,??how do you film with it and what is color like and what exposure do you use,,????please let me know,,,thnx
insightful videos. I moved away from all convenient film processing facilities and have to hand process now with a morse G3 tank. I asked google and emailed kodak support but they were not very helpful.. What chemicals and rinse timing do you suggest for processing 7266(b&w) and 7219(vision3 color) 16mm film? or where do you suggest I look for this info?
+Jeremy Ciliberto It's pretty much up to you to figure it out. If no one on the web has the answer you just have to do some test strips and try different out. You should be able to start with the process I used, it will probably give you some halfway result and you can alter it from there.
Does he have to demonstrate pouring in the chemicals and stirring? Basically, ball up 100 feet of film in a tank. That's the special knowledge he is imparting.The rest is well known if you have ever developed a roll of 35mm film. How many pieces of film have spots where the developer didn't reach the area?
What about standard 8mm film? I'm not particularly fond of Super 8 for some reason, I just like standard 8mm. If so, is there a certain type of film I should use? Is there any way to develop Kodachrome film? Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to this. I've been watching 8mm home movies and train films for a long time and have always wanted to film trains with vintage cameras, but I didn't think it was possible. I'll use Super 8 if I have too now that I know it can be done at home. I found some websites that will process it, but they wanted $18 per roll! That seems a bit ridiculous to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
+Jimmy Stewart 18$ isn't so bad, in the UK we have 'Gauge Film' which does it for 14£ (that's over 20$). Double-8 (you know it as 'standard': the film is 16mm wide, exposed along one side, and then flipped and exposed again. After development it is cut in half) isn't easy to get, but you can buy Fomapan R 100 (black and white). I've seen Agfa Chrome 200D, but that's expensive... super 8 is much more available, but also very expensive! you use a projector?
k2krafty1 Almost every film I have played with will work at least a little with a process like this, except kodachrome. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!
You obviously have no technical training in film processing. Your agitation is far too violent, anyone who copies your technique will cause GRANULAR MIGRATION on their film. A STOP BATH means halting the film development with a precisely timed immersion in dilute acetic acid, not mere "tap water" which will leave higher contrast areas on random parts of the film. Developer and Fixer chemicals should be mixed at least 24 hours before use so that the chemistry is properly homogenized.
OK, granted it's not the greatest instruction video ever made. But at least it's a starting place for people. You however sound like you're trying to impress someone (yourself) and discourage others with fears about nonsense minutiae. No sane person doing hand processing of motion picture film has reasonable expectations of perfection. FYI, real motion picture labs do not use acid stop, only water rinse. I know because I've worked in three of them over the years. And I've never even heard of "granular migration" or waiting 24 hours after mixing chemicals.
Great video. Would have loved to see a video on how you made your developing tank, it looks like it's been handmade
3:12 Ah! I get it! A twist in the film!
This method only suits certain kinds of projects where the consistency of result is unimportant, where inconsistencies are perhaps interesting. I have processed lots of B&W in Lomo tanks and metal spiral tanks and had no trouble with film surfaces contacting, etc. You really have to consider the appropriate processing system for the style of project you are doing. Lomo tanks are still around...
This process suits the beginner and people who are shooting for fun. Of course the person shooting 8 super 8 or 16 professionally have the equipment and resources to do it right. This is what makes it accessible and stops the format from dying.
incredibly helpful. thank you so much!!
Why not use a proper 16mm film reel to load the film such that he would not get scratched in the tank?
Those are hard to come by and are like 200+ dollars. There's no new productions of them.
Hi! sorry for my inglish.
How did you do the tank, especially the lid?
when you put the chemicals should it be dark?
How would you make the tank? So far I used a bucket completely in the dark. Idk how to make a tank like that.
how does the 16mm intermediate film come out to look???im really interested as i have got 8000 feet of this kodak film for nothing,,kodak says it can be used as capture stock,,but EI is 4,,,that means lot of light,,??how do you film with it and what is color like and what exposure do you use,,????please let me know,,,thnx
But I mean a proper 16mm developing reel for movie film, there are some at eBay, aren't?
where can i find a dark tank? thanks, great videos
Indras Mountain I will do a future episode on making a simple dark tank. Make sure to stay tuned. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!
+16mm Adventures where do you buy a dark tank for 16mm film processing?
because the chemicals wouldn't be able to touch every part of it
insightful videos. I moved away from all convenient film processing facilities and have to hand process now with a morse G3 tank. I asked google and emailed kodak support but they were not very helpful.. What chemicals and rinse timing do you suggest for processing 7266(b&w) and 7219(vision3 color) 16mm film? or where do you suggest I look for this info?
+Jeremy Ciliberto It's pretty much up to you to figure it out. If no one on the web has the answer you just have to do some test strips and try different out. You should be able to start with the process I used, it will probably give you some halfway result and you can alter it from there.
Does he have to demonstrate pouring in the chemicals and stirring? Basically, ball up 100 feet of film in a tank. That's the special knowledge he is imparting.The rest is well known if you have ever developed a roll of 35mm film. How many pieces of film have spots where the developer didn't reach the area?
What about standard 8mm film? I'm not particularly fond of Super 8 for some reason, I just like standard 8mm. If so, is there a certain type of film I should use? Is there any way to develop Kodachrome film? Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to this. I've been watching 8mm home movies and train films for a long time and have always wanted to film trains with vintage cameras, but I didn't think it was possible. I'll use Super 8 if I have too now that I know it can be done at home. I found some websites that will process it, but they wanted $18 per roll! That seems a bit ridiculous to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
+Jimmy Stewart 18$ isn't so bad, in the UK we have 'Gauge Film' which does it for 14£ (that's over 20$). Double-8 (you know it as 'standard': the film is 16mm wide, exposed along one side, and then flipped and exposed again. After development it is cut in half) isn't easy to get, but you can buy Fomapan R 100 (black and white). I've seen Agfa Chrome 200D, but that's expensive... super 8 is much more available, but also very expensive!
you use a projector?
Does this same process / chemical combo go for most film stocks?
k2krafty1 Almost every film I have played with will work at least a little with a process like this, except kodachrome. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting!
would this process work for super 8 film as well?
+Moth pope Storch Yes, it will work on Super 8, just the same.
You obviously have no technical training in film processing. Your agitation is far too violent, anyone who copies your technique will cause GRANULAR MIGRATION on their film. A STOP BATH means halting the film development with a precisely timed immersion in dilute acetic acid, not mere "tap water" which will leave higher contrast areas on random parts of the film. Developer and Fixer chemicals should be mixed at least 24 hours before use so that the chemistry is properly homogenized.
OK, granted it's not the greatest instruction video ever made. But at least it's a starting place for people. You however sound like you're trying to impress someone (yourself) and discourage others with fears about nonsense minutiae. No sane person doing hand processing of motion picture film has reasonable expectations of perfection. FYI, real motion picture labs do not use acid stop, only water rinse. I know because I've worked in three of them over the years. And I've never even heard of "granular migration" or waiting 24 hours after mixing chemicals.
Yeah man, stop gate-keeping you kook
Get a load of this guy