Bladesmithing 4: Leaf Spring, heat treating and test break.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 12 гру 2017
- Clearing up the "most leaf spring is 5160" myth and trying a different heat treating method. Below are a couple of the resources I used. (3 of like 30 lol)
www.irjet.net/archives/V3/i5/...
www.iosrjournals.org/iosr-jmce...
citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/...
Just want to say thank you, this practical and down to earth presentation is just what was needed.
Wow! some surprising results on the bend test. Should be helpful for many people. I'd want a test to be sure like you said. Thanks for your time here.
I might be learning slow but I love figuring things out for myself.
Ive made a few knifes out of spring steel and it holds its edge very well, very durable
Move it around in the water to break the steam jacket to get it harder. I like to temper at 400 for an hour for best results
Bots are great aren’t they ....
We share the same experimental attitudes! Great info.
Thanks.
You have the same 4" x 36" sander I have!
im waiting for sup9 or 5160 i ordered to make my first knife tnx for tthe info
i came here searching explanation on this steel and i saw many others videos to understand why brazillian bladesmithers like this 5160, with medium carbon and low chromium. It seems that 5160 is a good material indeed.
Good explanation.There is alot of materials which can be used in leaf springs.İn Europe there is different names , İn US there is another names.There is tons of leaf spring steels carbon contents about %0.7-0.4.Basically cheapest and sometimes thick ones (like train leaf springs) is 1045 or 9245.These steels can hardenable about 58-60 hrc after tempering 200 celcius hardness about 52-54 hrc.I think this numbers on the borders.(These numbers for Bohler 1730 basically more pure 1045 )But in this game you can not be sure what is leaf spring.Many of them has got carbon content about % 0.5-0.6.
Im new to knife making and like you use spring steel. I noticed you have chosen to quench in water as opposed to oil. Is it better to use water for spring steel and will the results be better or the same as an oil quench. I have use oil for my first knife but would prefer to use water to reduce the fire risk.
Use whatever gets the steel hard. Water is more likely to warp or crack your blade. If you use water don't let it linger in the quench.
@@WJBlades thanks mate. Good video 👍
Hello
If we did very simpl heat treatment just tow red spot on 40 cm leaf spring to make it as a ruler and made our knife with agrinder and then directly we tempered it with out make any heat treatmeant and any quench what is going to happen can you try it please what we shall get waiting the result
Thanks
I'm not sure I understand what you're asking. If you don't get it past magnetic (over 1440 degrees Fahrenheit) and quench, it will not harden to martensite. If you don't harden it, the blade won't hold as good of an edge. It's all about what qualities you're looking for in your blade. If you're talking about using the stock removal method of knifemaking, that's not what I do. Sorry if I'm not understanding you. ☺
Sir, i have only a max. 250 degree celsius temperature oven!,any guide from you? For excelent temper for (leaf spring) knife
Leaf spring is mystery steel so, there is no perfect formula. However, I would start at 210° Celsius for at least 1.5 hours with a test piece, directly after your hardening quench. If it works out good on your test piece it'll work out good on your knife. If it ends up being too brittle increase your temperature a bit or your time at that temperature until you get the results you're looking for.
Try 180 degrees Celsius because a beginner would surely not get the quenching right in the first place ...so unless you're sure that your quench and other stuff was perfect ....try going a little down on the tempering temp. .....as you can see in the video ....the knife he had tempered in the toaster oven had turned back into soft steel .....you need to find the sweet stop ...where the knife is not fragile but also doesn't bend so easily
I was just wondering if leaf spring is usually good steel. Also you should stir your pieces other wise you won’t get a proper heat treat since you’ll have a insulating layer of steam.
Spring steel in general is good for making blades in my opinion. Should you be telling someone else how to heat treat steel that you don't seem to have experience with?
@@WJBlades it is a well-known fact that you should move your steel in your quenching fluid to break the steam jacket to ensure a proper quench.
Which is best oli or water? Reply me pls sir?
Depends on your steel.
For almost all steels oil
I think he said it, he is a notice...;)
water quench with 5160? Why?
Why not?
Why are you using water?? Was the store out of oil???
Because water worked better. I use water quite often on mystery steel when oil doesn't achieve the results I'm looking for. Why not water??
@@WJBlades must people don't use water because the blades tend to crack more often than when quenched in oil. I never had any luck with it....
Edward, I'm not sure how you know what most people are using, maybe an impression from watching tv smiths. I've warped a few blades in water quenching but never cracked one. It's definitely more volatile. Interrupted quenching helps, maybe you should try that. So long as you are getting the hardness you want out of the steel, without damaging the blade, who cares what your quenching it in. I don't understand why people feel the need to judge the methods of others. I get the outcome I'm looking for, sometimes it's with oil sometimes it's with water.
Water will give you a hard or very hard piece... the toughness (making it less brittle but still hard to hold an edge) will depend on the tempering..
If you always experience cracking or warping, try normalizing it first before quenching. Also make sure you have even and smooth surface. Don't make the bevel to thin.
Been done with water since way before you were born
Knifes are good and all, I love knives but let's all face it.....who would bring a knife to a gun fight? Lmao, my money is the guy with the gun.
nonya business Knives and guns are more then just weapons, they are useful tools for their intended application. They definitely have crossover areas of usefulness. With that said, I like both. I'm my honest opinion long distance obviously favors the firearms, close proximity I think depends on the training of the individual. A point in favor of the blade, no matter your training, is that a blade doesn't run out of ammo. I would give a knife wielding attacker the respect they deserve or risk your life. Just saying... =)
@@WJBlades oh most deff, I'm not dissing ya at or nothing, but I live in ME where all we do is hunt and shoot guns lol, if only we had more guys like you man here that knows how to craft, but I always carry a .45 as well as two 9mm with enough ammo to last me more then I really need lol..but your right as well, swords and knives don't run outa ammo lol, i actually know Muso Jikiden Eishin-ryu as well as Aikido, but to be honest I'd rather use a tall staff for any self defense besides a gun...oh and I put a like on your video, you really do a good job man
@@nonyabusiness2041 Thanks I appreciate the encouragement. I didn't take it as a dis... I'm no snowflake. Lol.
Knife or bladed metal in general is the most useful tool ever made brother. For info....