HOW TO: Get Hot Water in Seconds
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- With the Comfort System pump, you can have hot water to any fixture in seconds. Don Baker of GEERS Plumbing in Huntington Beach explains how easy it is to get hot water to any fixture in your home in just seconds.
If you live in Orange County and you need top quality plumbing, heating, air-conditioning, kitchen remodeling, or bathroom remodeling services, contact GEERS today, or stop by our Huntington Beach location. GEERS Huntington Beach is Orange County's #1 resource for hard-to-find plumbing products, parts, fixtures, and supplies. GEERS has a 6,000 square ft. on-site warehouse, and a large showroom where you can see top brand fixtures on display.
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I bought one way back, those days the PUMP & bypass valve was all, you had to go purchase hoses, NEW ones NOW INCLUDE THOSE HOSES, THEN GRUNDFOSS SENT ME SOME PROMO & another bypass valve , so upstairs , the lines & bypass valve ore under the sink,so I get hot water quickly @ sink,bathtub& a shower , the other is under the sink on 1st floor & KITCHEN SINK. It’s set off 2 am,on 6 am, works just fine , 🇳🇴🇳🇴🇺🇸🇺🇸
thx live in a high-rise condo. Glad to have the plumber explain the problem with the recycle valve. Management abusing owners saying they need to change the shower controller. Did cross reference also with mainline cold water shut off same hot water problem 45 seconds to the bathtub, 2 minutes to sink. At least i know and others know of the issue. Can't explain why managers of large condos would not k-now or the plumbers themselves. Finally got to google the recycling valve. thanks. What can owners do to [prevent abuse and scams? They still not fixing the issue at their end, yet threaten us with changing bathroom controls. for Failure to maintain. Should be articulated through media the abuse and scams on condo owners, even the additional charges for large apartment rentals if and then.
Recommend revised 2nd video on how to install complete package meaning by pass and more
Great video with even better explanation of how the bypass works.
A pump is not necessary if you can access the pipe lines to the furthest fixture. Installing a t-fitting in the hot line and returning it to the drain pipe of the tank with a check valve will give you nearly instant hot water at all the fixtures in the system. No pump needed because gravity does all the work. This works great in single story homes but will also work in a 2 story by plumbing to the furthest point accessible. It is not perfect, but it does help.
I deactivated the pump and you are right. I want to take the recirculating valve out. Is that easy to do myself?
gravity???? that makes no sense either and sounds like it violates code
@@johnnyllooddte3415 Cold water sinks.
Do you have a flow diagram ?
It's actually convection, but some didn't understand that.
If I understand the mechanics correctly, when the water recirculates back through the cold line, we are then drinking water that has been run through the hot water tank? I have always understood that due the use of decaying aluminum anode rods, water from the hot water tank should not be used for drinking or cooking. Is this safe?
Good question. I am guessing a water filter on the fridge may take care of this.
Say timer is set for 630-640 I’m not using the faucet what happens to the pressure when the line water reaches temp build pressure bust a line or what happens that seems better to manually turn pump on prier to use once u open the hot tap turn pump off but how does this way work with the pump on a timer
Was thinking that myself, why not just have the valve dump water into the drain?
@@PD-yd3fr Because dumping in it the drain is exactly what you're trying to avoid. The idea of this is to save time AND water.
Can you hear the water running through the pipes like when a faucet is in use? That would suck
How can you tell is the bypass valve is working? The pump sounds like it's running but water not circulating???? Thanks for your help.
had one of these units for 16 years. Pump works correctly but the valve at the end of the line is another matter. I'm on a well so have high alkaline water. Once per year I must pull the valve and replace it. It gets fouled with alkaline. I take the removed unit, soak it in white vinegar for about 24 hours and force compressed air through it to make sure it is open. I store the unit for the next year. I have a water softener, 5 micro water filter and use a RO filter for drinking water.
I have not had mine installed long, and already I think the thermo valve is not working. I thought it might have an adjustable temp to set, but nope. Its a dummy unit with internal function. So I have to take this thing out and descale it? Geez...Is this gonna happen easily all the time? I too use a RO for drinking, but not for the rest of the water line. I do want it for shower so I can remove the fluoride in that as well. Most important thing to remove. But, this valve is now the issue...At least I think. Any way to test it?
Sounds wonderful
100% correct... I got it.
The one thing I continue to not quite understand is how hot water will be immediately available at all my faucets/showers, etc by putting the one check valve on the sink at the furthermost run from the water heater. It would seem that there would still be some branches/legs of pipe to the other faucets/showers that still would have some cool water in them, and that really only the sink with the check valve is the "immediately available" sink. I have a two-story house, 4 bathrooms, kitchen, etc, spread out over 4600 sq ft. Will I really get hot water immediately at every faucet/shower in the house?
If it’s in a loop now then it would. It would be very quick to the other sinks even if they are not in a loop
@@tomkrupica No loop. Just a typical install as in the vast majority of homes. I do get it that I would get hot water faster out on the branches/legs, as the main line would have hot water. But there would still be some lag on the branches.
@5thGenNativeTexan
Plumber here, you would be correct there will be lag, specifically the amount of water contained in the individual branch from the trunk line.
This system keeps the trunk line warm, but not all the branches.
You can install multiple of these sensors though. If you (properly) installed one at every fixture you could have essentially instant everywhere.
yes, you explained this clearly..... gonna buy one asap
can u use this on a tankless waterheater too
Can the recirculating pump be used with the heat trap or does it need to be removed before installation?
Installed circuit pump and bypassed
When the valve closes, isn't the pump then pumping against a closed system? Is that not bad for the pump?
Before the Valve closes, it is easier to pump horizontally back into the cold system rather than push water up into a faucet.
When the valve closes, the pump still has a path out of the faucet and the hot water is pushed out.
Can you use this on a tankless hot water heater?
What happens to the pump id the bypass valves are hot and don’t allow for recirculation? Does that blow out the pump?
Could you make it with a flow switch instead of a timer? We are retired and don't have set times that we need hot water in the kitchen.
I have a couple of questions:
#1 So the pump runs sending the hot water to the sensor valve under the sink. When the sensor determines the water coming to it is hot, it shuts off dumping the water down the cold water line. When that sensor valve activates, does the back pressure in the pump line cause the pump to shut off - or does the pump just continue to run until the timer shuts it off?
#2 with the pump off and not running via the timer, will tank water flow through the pump with the pump not running?
I have this exact pump in my 5 yr old house. It works great. I set the timer to run in the morning and evening. When not running, everything works as usual. I had to replace the pump and bypass valve after 4 yrs. The pump runs when the timer says it is supposed to run. This is a fractional pump so it is a tiny amount of water being recirculated back into the hot water heater. Not sure why so many negative comments here?? This guy is spot on everything he is saying. I have hot water literally in seconds during periods when the timer is set. Good video.
Brilliant!
Do you have a video on the bypass valve on how to hook that up
Do I need install the bypass valve on each faucet or just one can run whole house?
Only one is necessary, usually added to the faucet that is farthest from the water heater. However, it doesn't hurt to add one to each faucet, if you want to. It will just help to get hot water to each faucet a little quicker. The only downside is it may cause the recirc pump to run a little bit more, because you're keeping all these extra bypass valves at the desired temp. Or at least, they should be cycling through the min/max range of temp that they are designed to operate at.
Liked the video, thank you.
Do you recommend a bypass valve at each hot water location? i.e. Kitchen, master bath, upstairs bath, and guest bath? The guest bath is nearest to HW Heater. Next would be the master bath and in close second the kitchen and then upstairs bath, is the furthest place hot water needs to travel. So, in theory, if I install the bypass valve in the upstairs bath sink, my hot water should arrive much quicker at each location?
If on the same run or loop yes. If you have separate branches of hot and cold than you would need one at the end of each branch / leg.
I’m going to see if I can track down plans for our house, but I’m also certain I can go into the mechanical room and find the direction of the water and determine my number of runs.
Hope that helps your question.
Will this system work if i only had the sensor valve at furthest fixture, without a recirc pump installed?.
Question? Our 1931 home has 5 bathrooms!! Really as it was a boarding house and we have this system which is awesome 😉 BUT we still have a bathroom that I need hot water quicker so can I install another comfort valve or move the original valve until I find that sweet spot of hot water? Thanks and you're video clip was spot on compared to the 3 other videos that I watched prior.
This isn’t fact but I’m willing to guess that you’d need to install the bypass valve with the gel tab that he talked about that goes at the sink in the farthest location. You would already have flow to the hot water on whatever direction it ran from the tank.
my water is low through out my house my house is 2001 will this issue?
Sound like the materials aren't going to last but a few years. How often must you replace with hard water? soft water?
Can this be used on a tankless water heater?
The pumps with higher flow rate work but, not with those black plastic bypass valves. Avoid using those comfort valves in high calcium area's or you'll be replacing them every two years. You'll know they've failed when you get scolded from the valve locking in open position.
You push down the cooled off water in cold line .that means you will have warm water in cold line .
So then, warm drinking water, ummmh. Like robbing Peter to pay Paul.
So how long does it take to get Coldwater now?
Awesome...great explanation!!!
Can i use this pump with pex pipe line?
How do I remove that thing? I don’t want to use the recirculating pump anymore so I unplugged it but I am still getting hot water instantly at the sink that has bypass valve under it. I don’t want the hot water recirculating at all anymore. Can I just turn off the water that sink? It’s still coming out.
My water heater is basically in the center of my house. The hot water line tees off and one branch goes to master bath and then up to another bath. The other line goes to kitchen and another upstairs bath. Do I install a recirc valve in both upstairs bathrooms which are on opposite ends of the house?
Does this work with a water softener already installed?
Can I have 2 bi pass valves on 1 recirculating pump
with this work with a mixing (anti scold) by pass value?
This is great but here in the summer in Arizona the cold water turns warm. I turn my water heater to vacation mode at 60 degrees and don't need 110 degree hot water. The dishwasher already heats for cleaning and a cool shower is more comfortable in the summer. I'm originally from Washington state so I really miss having cold water in the summer.
I’ve been thinking about doing that, but I’ve been reading it can create bacteria in your hot water tank if it’s below 120°F. Any opinions on this
That was awesome
I don't get it. What are you bypassing from where and to where and how is it faster??
can this be used on a tankless heater? my kitchen takes 3 min to get warm . waiting water. or do I need a circulating line on the kitchen going back to the tank? or just this pump will do it? thanks
Will not work with tankless.
When you turn on the cold water faucet after the heating is done will the cold water now be warm/hot?
It depends on how cold the water in the hot water pipe is. If you haven't run the water all night long, then the entire hot water line from the water heater is cold. The check value will shut the water off once hot water reaches it. So depending on how warm the hot water line is, that is how warm your cold side will be.
What are your thoughts on a Chili Pepper device? I have used them for 8 years with no problems. Anyone can install them under the sink in the bathroom or kitchen. Press the button and in 30 seconds you have hot water.
WHAT DEVICE IS THAT?
But the pump is still running even if it’s on a timer for 30 mns when that tab closes because the line is hot and no one is using the faucet the pump is till pumping then what happens
I have a question: Imagine that you live in an older home and you are unable to determine which hot water fixture is the furthest fixture away from the water heater. If I guess wrong will this device still provide benefits?
yes, install the manifold at the fixture you want the hot water to quicker
Let's say you have a kitchen and two bathrooms. Get two people to help you. On cue you and your helpers turn on full hot water at all three locations at once and the have each shout when they feel hot water. The first to notice is the closest location to the water heater, the last to notice is the farthest location. But the closest and farthest locations may not be on the same path. For example in my remodeled house, the water heater used to be in the middle of the house 12 feet from the kitchen faucet. During remodel, the tanked heater was replaced with a tankless heater in the garage but the hot water now had to flow to what was the middle of the house before it could flow anywhere else. That effectively moved every faucet about 30 feet further away from the heater. It also means that the path from the heater to the kitchen is common between all faucets, but the path from the heater to the master bath is quite different from the path to the guest bathroom.
Also, I would also add that I think FasterHotWater.com has a genius solution. They add a "flow monitor" to their system which turns the pump on WHEN it sees water flowing. That means you can e.g. turn on your hot water at any faucet for a second, turn it off and then wait. Meanwhile the pump stays on for 3 minutes to circulate the hot water back to the cold line allowing the heater to push hot water into the line. In this use, you waste very little hot water and do NOT run the risk of continuously running your heater to keep the water in the pipes hot.
Note: My plumber had a Watts (Grundfos based) kit that he installed for me, but it didn't work. The reason it didn't work is not clear, but tankless heaters require sufficient flow for them to turn on and apparently either the pump (or the bypass valve) didn't produce enough flow.
I just noticed a "genius" idea... which is to install TWO (or more) bypass valves to increase the flow. Gonna try that and if it works, I'll probably add the flow monitor.
Seems my AO Smith water heater has a built in heat trap so this system won't work for me.
Recently purchased an 8 yr. old custom home with the recirculation pump installed but no sensor at the other end of the house. I installed the sensor and then we had instant hot water. The previous owner had the pump set in the 'on' position, (but he had no sensor). I didn't change the setting when I installed the sensor. Our house has a propane tank for gas heating. Tank filled right after purchase. Within 6 weeks we had burned through over 200 gallons of propane, which is over $700. Have a gas furnace for heat, but are conservative on heat settings, not on at night at all. Gas water heater, and gas cook top. That's it. Propane Co. tested, had no leaks. They're only guesstimate is 50 gal water heater running 25/7 recirculating caused the excessive propane usage. Sound likely??
I unplugged my recirculating plug, I’m in a two-story house with a bridge valve upstairs so I still get hot water even without the pump. But this means my water heater is running all the time and it’s trying to recirculate all the time. I want the bridge valve out but I want to figure out how I do that myself!
What if you use the bypass valve without a pump, should cut back on water waste, right? I don’t mind waiting a bit but I’m metered
That's the point of the bypass and pump. It recirculates, it does not pour away.
What pressure is that pump running at? If I set my pump to have instant hot water say between 7 to 9am, how much higher will my water pressure be when using it while the pump is on?
Thanks
A circulating pump will not change the overall pressure in a system.
But how wouldn't it if it has to overcome the house pressure to get back to the hwt, until it shuts off.
Is this part all I need????
So if the cold pipe is full of hot, where do you get cold water? I use a 3 line system.
Ocean Mariner wait for it to cool off
@Bob J so it pushes the cold water back to the water heater?
@@hyster2568 Yes. Your water heater will temporarily also get slightly colder. This isn't really an issue for tankless, obviously.
Use a DEDICATED Hot Water Return Line.
@@pablogaviria9265 That what a 3 line system is. Hot, cold and hot return.
Can I install this on my boiler that does not have a water heater?
Can this work with a Rinnai R75i on demand propane HW heater? Is there a different arrangement? The original HW design of my house is root and branch but the large addition we built are all home runs with Pex. If there is a system for on demand propane HW heaters I can see it being a plus for the root and branch system in my original house. I see this video was posted 11 years ago.
What state are you in?
Could this be used to create in floor heating? I live in cooler climate, Montana, and also worry about pipes in crawl space freezing
Yes!
Unless your water heater is spiffy clean, and change the corroded anode rod, and flush your water heater several times a year, you will be drinking your potable water (cold side) mixed with your hot water. Imagine a home owner who rarely flushes his/her water heater and drinks from all the contaminates from your water heater. Even if you keep your water heater clean, heavy metal buildup in the water heater usually is several times more than your potable water. The only way to alleviate any health concern is to run a dedicated hot line from the water heater to the farthest plumbing with a re-circulating pump re-routing the hot water back into the drain side of the water heater without ever contaminating the cold water side. However, unless it is a new house already retrofitted with this line, it gets expensive installing a dedicated line.
I installed a Watts recirculating pump on my water heater. I installed the Hot Water Recirculating System Sensor Valve Kit under the bathroom sink which I believe it's the furthest from the water heater. When the pump is on, the cold water at that sink is warm not cold. It's the only faucet that does that. I'm not sure what the problem is. Any help is appreciated. Thank you
It's because that is where your sensor valve is. The valve opens when the water temperature is under 90° F allowing the hot water to flow throw into your cold water pipe. The valve closes again when the water flowing through it reaches 90° F again. This process happens all the time to keep the warm water at your faucet. When you turn the cold water on you are flushing out the warm water that was pushed into that pipe before the real cold water comes out.
Make sense. All house should be build like that and Gov should promote or cover the cost for all this installation in order to save water for the whole city.
Great Knee Jerk idea that should be given more thought.
Can you drink water heater water?
The Claim: Never Drink Hot Water From the Tap
Environmental scientists say it is real. The reason is that hot water dissolves contaminants more quickly than cold water, and many pipes in homes contain lead that can leach into water. And lead can damage the brain and nervous system, especially in young children.
@@eagle18hls Agree: Great Knee Jerk idea... The question is: "To waste water, or energy?" Since "sav[ing] water for the whole city" is proposed, where almost all domestic water is recycled (as a result of past investment in water-treatment plants), the question becomes, "Since water is not really being saved, is it worth the resulting higher usage of energy for 'all house should be build like that' for mere convenience?"
As the current pandemia has show, the "obvious" answer is probably not the best one.
OK, it will take seconds to get hot water to the furthest faucet. How long does it take to get cold water to that same faucet?
where you install the manifold water will be luke warm. My opinion well work it.
Hi
What about the chance of legionnaire's disease
THAT WAS AS AN AC PROBLEM. PAY ATTENTION
thansk
This system works if you have a pre-existing home or if you can’t get to the plumbing lines anymore. However if you can there is a much much better much higher efficiency system. With the better system the pump only runs when you enter either your bathroom or your laundry room or wherever you are going to use hot water. If you use a timer it seems like it’s never on when you need it. So again use the system he’s explaining if you have no other way otherwise use the better system there is just no comparison. With his system if you’re gone for a couple of weeks and forget to shut the pump off it runs every day even though you’re not home with the better system the pump runs only just before you start to draw hot water.
What’s other system do you have a mind?😊
And the much much better system is…..what??
Mystery system
My question is actually based on pressure. Houses here are normally installed with an auto pressure pump for the main supply line. The pumps produces a pressure rating of around 10 bar equivalent to 145 psi (Pump on the pent house). Does this mean that the booster or pressure pump on the supply line will contradict the pressure and thus the flow with this recirculation pump?
I am not sure how this pump works but in the other video they say as soon as the water temperature at the valve drops to 98 degrees, it will allow water to be recirculated. By this, I believe the Watts small pump works on pressure stutus. When the valve shrinks due to heat change, water is allowed and therefore the pump detects the loss of pressure and starts to function. Does this means if the pressure on the cold supply line is greater or higher to some extent then the Watts pump won't start? In other words, what is the maximum pressure allowed on the cold line or the main supply line for this system to work properly?
I am asking this just because we are going to boost the supply line with a 10 bar/145 psi automatic pump for two reasons. 1. It's because we want pressure on all showers below as water supply is free fall from a tank above. 2. A 200 liter central heater is at the same level as on one of the showers. Pressure will be so less at this point.
Any help is much appreciated in advance.
Pumps work on relative pressure. Since there is 145 psi on both sides of the pump (once the lines are pressurized by turning your shutoff valve to the open position) there is a net pressure of 0 between the input and the output. Once the pump is on there is only a slight increase in pressure between the input and output.
Think about it this way. Air compressors pump air through them but both input and output sides are pressurized with atmospheric pressure, and thus the atmospheric pressure cancels out and you only have left the pressure that your compressor is set to.
There is no pressure difference between hot and cold lines when the pump is off and there is no water running.
(By my deduction) The way this system works is there is a pump that has a built in bypass of some sort so when the output pressure of the pump is greater than a certain point the bypass is activated and allows the pump to pump a low resistance route. This is a built in property of some types of "fan" pumps and seeing as the pump is circular I would hazard a guess that they're using this type of pump. So when the temperature sensitive valve at the other end of the pipe opens the pump pumps hot water until the valve closes. When the valve closes the pump "free-wheels" in the bypass so the pressure doesn't get to high.
Hope that helps even though your question is 8 months old.
WHERE ARE YOU AT? NO NORMAL HOMES EVER HAVE A PUMP IN THE ENTIRE USA. UNLESS CUSTOM. MANY USA HOME HAVE A PRESSURE REGULATOR SET ABOUT 75 PSI TO PREVENT SURGES AND WILL BREAK SUPPLY LINE AND FIXTURES . STANDARD FIXTURES ARE RATED AT 100 PSI. BAR IS FOR AIR PRESSURE NOT WATER. ALL OF USA USES FLEX LINES. ITS NOT GHETTO BOZO. WATER HEATERS ARE NOT INSTALLED OUTSIDE EITHER. THERE IS A METAL PHONE BOOTH TO COVER IT. SO MUCH BS ON THIS WEBSITE. THE PLUMBER IS TYPICAL OF THE TRADE TO LEAVE HALF OF IT OUT...... LIVED IN HB FOR 30 YRS --- LOTSA FLAKES.
@@b5a5m5 Exactly why you cant have thrust in a vacuum of space.
But the recirculating pump will be working at least 12-15 hours per day, 7 days per week, 365 days per year - and that's a lot of electricity wasted just to have hot water on demand. Wouldn't a small tankless water heater at each sink be more feasible?
Based on the timer setting, does the pump on the hot water heater discharge line keep running during the chosen time frame of its operation, or it kicks off the moment we open the hot water faucet any where inside home?
They have other products ( booster pumps) for tankless water heaters. Where you push a button in the bathroom to turn the pump on and off. this product is controled by the timer only.
Doesn't this system mean that you will have Temped water in the cold water line when you want an Cold drink of water? If you don't want Temped cold water you would need to run a return line back to the tank. I'm I incorrect in my understanding?
Just run the pump only when you desire hot water. Tepid water from the cold line is a small, temporary price to pay for nearly instant hot water. Just give it a few minutes and the cold line will equalize to room temperature, just like before you installed the pump.
Where is bypass valve installed
I have hot water coming from the cold side after installing the bypass I'll get hot water from the cold side hot water from outside
How do you get more water pressure when your tank is in the basement and you have a 2 story house? Upstairs water pressure is low.
Janeen Reavis booster pump
im an engineer and that makes NO SENSE.. are you saying somehow youre hooking the hot and cold water together somewhere downline.. and sending coldhot water back to the tank thru the cold water side
Exactly. Trust all of us who have these marvelous systems. They are a godsend
Is this basically a recirculating pump?
No a booster pump. with a bypass valve.
Donald Baker what's it boosting? it's recirculating
It's a circ pump. Not a booster pump. It circulates cooled water until that terminal device senses the hot.
so would I need a bypass valve for each fixture that uses hot water ?
No. If the fixture is between the water heater and the valve the way I read it is you are good to go.
...and this because by mixing/pushing the hot water into the cold line (thus keeping it in the supply line, and not wasting it) at the farthest fixture when it gets "too cool" appears to the water heater as "using hot water", lowering the reserve of hot water in the tank and causing it to kick on. The result then is that there is always "hot" hot water at the furthest fixture, and if the hot water line contains hot water all the way to the furthest point, there will be hot water for every fixture closer to the heater too.
So by using the cold water line as the return, instead of waiting for hot water, you wait for cold, while using electricity for the pump, and heat your house in both winter and summer, using the least efficient system, the hot water heater, through a gel valve that needs to be replaced approximately every 5 years. I would have never thought of such a system. Interesting!
The valve closes once the water gets hot stopping the flow. That way the cold line stays cold. You may have to replace them every 5 years or so, but they cost about $50. $10/year is not a bad price to pay to not waste water.
@@yamaguy If you have continually hot water in the hot line, it requires that you have continually warm water in the cold line.
@@jackt6112 and more potential for bacteria
The small valve he held up in the video opens and closes to keep the cold line cold and the hot line hot. Once the hot water reaches the valve it closes. It does not run continuously.
Nobody said you had to keep the hot water line at temperature all the time. If you're smart about it, you'll have the pump running on a schedule or, smarter, triggered by a motion sensor in each room with a hot water tap.
Where can we get one of these pumps and how much does it run?
comfort system pump. Groundfous mfg. Any plumbing supply house. Or call your local plumber.
If you live in Calif. the State will provide you one and install for free. Go to www.orderebateprogram.com
so where do you install that valve?
under the furthest sink
I have this pump and by-pass valve and now I have NO cold water in my Kitchen nor in the farthest bathroom where I wanted the hot water faster. What should I do to get my cold water to be cold and the hot to stay hot?
Probably need to adjust the pump timing so that it isn't on for as long.
OR your bypass valve is bad and isn't closing thus pumping large amounts of hot water into your cold line.
Remove the bypass system and return to the standard system, then install an inexpensive but good quality 120volt under sink water heater to the HOT side of your water, they are about $200, it will just act as a booster and use very little power.
toddstractorworks hmmm, I've been wanting to install a point of use but the 3 foot power cords are all to short and do not reach the outlet.
where ever you install the bypass valve the water temp at that fixture will be warm. that is the nature of the product, if you have a two story house and the master bath is above the kitchen you could install the bypass valve there. Usually having luke warm water in the bathroom sink is not as bad an issue.
Why don't you answer the questions/comments?
Its nice when you open the cold and get hot
save water, worth it to have a bit of warm on the cold side. Only where the manifold is installed.
it senses the temp change and closes off so no hot goes through to the cold side
Cool!
No. Its Hot
Number 1 their is no such thing as instant hot water it just means you will get it quicker depending on where your wh is.
Do it the correct way and pre-plumb for it or run a 3/4 inch return and depending on how your home is rolled it might work a little faster and not for long because those little plastic manifolds go bad quick
5 years is "quick"?
You failed to mention the high cost, why are they so expensive?
$400.00 pretty affordable.
KOLERFLO ON AMAZON HAS PUMP FOR 64 DOLLARS
The ONLY downfall is that you might have in certain cases luke warm water on the cold water side.....but the hot side will be perfect...
That's why in NY if you building a new home you need a third pipe to anything that's 15' or more away from the water heater or heat source...which Is a complete different system than what the video shows but it's the best way with out connecting on the cold water side like it shows here...but a stainless steel recirculating pump costs around $450 plus labor and materials
"might have in certain cases luke warm water on the cold water side." Name one time you Would Not have to wait twice as long for cold water with this system installed..
@@utube4greenfuture well the time where the lukewarm water in the pipes had cooled to cold water... But yeah it's not ideal
I installed one of these several years ago now it no longer works, I know the pum is functional because I can hear and feel it running, what’s going on?
Your bypass valve may be stuck closed?
Or perhaps you don't hear it "running" but you hear it "humming" like a ceased motor?
Like the first couple seconds of this video ua-cam.com/video/FMegj9_OYeE/v-deo.html
In that case your pump is bad and needs servicing / replacing.
are you just not getting quick hot water to the fixture?
Look at the bright side and don't fix it.
Can you drink water heater water?
The Claim: Never Drink Hot Water From the Tap
Environmental scientists say it is real. The reason is that hot water dissolves contaminants more quickly than cold water, and many pipes in homes contain lead that can leach into water. And lead can damage the brain and nervous system, especially in young children.
wonder if this is allowed in CANADA
Of course it is. I installed one in my home. Excellent product!
So, where the hell does the bypass valve go???
Only with a hot water tank??? What about an indirect hot water heater?
Will this product work on ANY hot water heater? I ask because my existing recirculating pump worked like a chanp on my water heater but as soon as I had my water heater replaced my existing recirculating pump does not work on the new hot water heater. So if I buy the product you show in this video, will it work on my new hot water heater that my old recirculating pump wouldn't?
now does the bypass valve go underneath the farthest fixture?
Omar Hernandez yes
yes sir. you can also use more than one manifold. $75.00 to purchase extra
What would happen if you do not put the pump you just put the valve sensor
Jose Reveles they are at very similar pressures and the water wouldnt move in the pipes.
wouldnt work, hot pressure needs to over power the cold.
I got into this chat by chance, looking for the same answer. Would it be possible to just install the sensor? then as soon as I open the faucet, water would start circulating through the circuit but will not come out until it has reached the right temp. I still haven´t found the right answer.
@@p4csl.s.l.451 That's a rather vague question. Exactly which faucet would you open? If it's the hot tap, it'd be no different than if you had not installed the bypass valve at all. If it's the cold tap, you'd get increasingly warmer water until the thermostatic valve closed.
Is this possible to install to shower faucet... Or how it works when showering? It's clear for handwashes
You're warming the entire hot water trunk. All upstream taps will benefit from quicker hot water start times. That's why you're supposed to install the bypass valve at the furthest hot water tap.
Can the valve be serviced when it stops working or is it a throw-away and replace? This gel pack inside that you spoke of, is it sealed or can water get into it. I have a valve that seems to be not working and a replacement is half the cost of a new system. Doesn't that encourage new customers!!!
Bypass valve is not repairable, you replace it when it stops working. $75.00 for a new bypass valve.
But now no cold water?
You just have to run it until the cold gets there. The opposite problem.
The hot water tank is insulated. It seems inefficient if hot water is waiting in the pipes in older homes
The recirculation pump adds hot water convenience, not energy efficiency.
So trigger the pump on your preferred schedule or on-demand. Nobody said it had to be running all the time.
So I installed one of these in my kitchen sink, but realized there is another one underneath a bathroom sink. I also noticed I get hot water all the time in the kitchen regardless of if I select cold. Not sure what to do.
Maybe your pump is running constanly (too often). Therefore it is pumping hot water into the cold water line all the time. So you get hot watee from the cold water lines when you turn the tap
Are you saying you have 2 by pass valves? one in the kitchen and one in the bathroom.
@@geo8rge Yes I installed one under kitchen sink and realized later there is also one underneath my master bath sink. The kitchen is farthest location. Sometimes (not always) we get hot water from the cold side in kitchen sink as well as the fridge water dispenser. Kids say upstairs sometimes it's hot from cold side as well.
And a 15% increase in hot water cost....what cheaper a few gallons of water or the energy to heat it?
in California water is pretty precious here. Its up to you . probably another $2.00 a month in gas ( what we use here);
Once the water is hot and the valve stops the water were dose the water go the pump is still on ,until timer is off , the pressure is building until the Faucet is open
Jerry Nieves - I’ve read that the pump has a recirc line within itself so it isn’t deadheading.
How to find a hack plumber look for flexible copper tubing at a water heater, as a 30 year plumbing veteran take my advice NEVER use those thin flexible water heater supplies, do it right the first time type L rigid copper pipe !
You’re my kind of plumber, put in the thicker copper tube.
How bout the the other half of the story?!,. Like where to install the manifold?!
under the sink, at the furthest fixtre from the water heater.
i suggest you skip the 10gal. water saving analogy .... you use 5 every time you flush -... soooooo... that makes doing this, more work to save some water, than the couch potatoes are willing to expend to get it done.... Head towards - The Wife Angle" - that....! ... will get it done.... !