2$ LiPo Charger & Boost Converter? || TP5410 Test
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2017
- You can get the TP5410 board here (affiliate links):
Ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-532...
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Amazon.de: amzn.to/2uMC6PT
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In this video I will have a look at the wemos d1 battery shield that "supposedly" can charge up a LiPo battery and boost its output voltage up to 5V. I will determine all the important features the board offers (like overdischarge or short circuit protection) and also test the efficiency of the boost converter.
Music:
2011 Lookalike by Bartlebeats - Наука та технологія
'First off, I desoldered the pesky LiPo connector.'
That's my man.
Enrico Rovere 😂 I bought a bag of them connectors
Careful with these modules, mine came with the wrong polarity connector!
why don't you ask some of your audience who are native chinese speaker when you have to read some chinese datasheet?i'm from Hong Kong,and i'm willing to help you
tutorial arduino Commenting so he hopefully sees this
tutorial arduino maybe you can ask the manufacturers why they lie about the specs of this board....
Can't agree more with Srigi. Google Translate app is an invaluable tool and a must-have app for anyone working with Chinese components.
also its sometimes hillarious if you read it out loud what google translate spits out.
If you have chrome, you can also install project naphta, which can translate text in images (if you have an image, of course. unfortunately it doesnt work with pdfs). If you have a pdf, you can upload it to google drive, open it with google docs and translate it (tools>translate)
Thanks for the extensive testing. I was zoo lazy to do that. The missing protections are common for the tiny lipo protection circuits on the battery themselves. So there won't be a problem in the most cases. I rather keep the connector. It's a standard JST. You can crimp a counterpart to your battery and then it's easy to disconnect.. which will happen more often
happiness is getting notification from Great scott
I was waiting for your video today
And luckily you uploaded one today.....
This is brilliant. It's hard to keep up with all the new boards that are available, especially when they don't have proper documentation. More like this!!!
Thanks for showing us this board and testing it so well! I like the idea but will wait for better versions to come out that address the significant issues this one has.
Nice work, it would be neat to see the equivalent practical tests done on the $20 board, and see how accurate the advertised specs are.
Really digging that rework technique at the end!
I like how you made the components de-solder themselves at the end
I love this kind of videos! Me and probably a lot of people in your audience buy this kind of cheap stuff from chinese sellers. I would really enjoy more of these tests. Keep it up! :D
My ultimate wish is to assist GreatScott on all his projects (want to learn so many things from this man)
Lol. I like how you got all bigclive on it at the end with 12v.
Nice comparison !!! Good job there!!
Thanks very much for what you do . . . . .I am new to your channel and as I watched my first video I thought GREAT SCOTT this is wonderful stuff. . . . .
Notice that the chip itself is just a boost driver chip.. So, VOUT, is actually input pins (for sampling). For battery to VOUT(or SYS), there is not any protection.
1. This chip itself has overcurrent protection, but it's for the chip. If you short the SYS, it just like you are shorting the battery...
2. When the voltage is lower than setting (2.7v), it stops boost, and as the topology, it just connect battery to SYS directly. So their is no over-discharging protection.
3. Other protections are just cut off Vin at some conditions.
4. There is a circuit in datasheet comes with power path selection. This one you get is not suitable (but can, due to it have a diode connect from 5v in to Vsys) for charging and providing power at same time...
Yes.
First, I've never used this chip. So I'm just analysing these things by some facts that I know...
It can be just the problem of this kind of IC, the manufacturer is cheating about the values...
But consider that 700ma to 990ma(min) is too ridiculous, I think the poor PCB design maybe the main reason.
According to the datasheet, the charging part is a Linear regulator (it's not buck reuse the coil, it's a linear regulator...) which do not have a good efficiency and release heat. (We are talking about a 5V to 4.xxV LDO... with 1A)
The chip will limit the current by measure the temperature. (in case it goes too high)
In the datasheet they have warned that a bad heat design can result in lower charging current. So they recommend to use the copper on the bottom side as the heat sink by connect the back metal part on the chip to the bottom GND layer through vias.
From the picture of the product on the ebay, I can hardly see any via on bottom layer that connect chip ground to the bottom layer... (I can see a hole at 7:24 but I'm not sure if it's a via...)
Not mention they run the gnd wire under the coil...
As a comparison, you can look at the reference PCB design from the manufacturer www.tpwics.com/nd.jsp?id=24&_np=2_403
- something wrong, removed -
- something wrong, removed -
I'm not talking about the wide of pcb trace...
I can only find θja for this chip with no idea what the design is...
But it would be affected by the design and diminish the current.. But I cannot say anymore about this unless I buy one of this board...
Typical LDO like AMS1117 have a huge metal heatsink that almost as big as the battery chip itself... That's not the same story...
145℃ is max junction temperature (in limit mode it's 120℃) and in the figure of "complete charging cycle (2:45)", datasheet says θja = 130℃/W.
But I don't think with well thermal condition, θja would be so large...
So either the value is wrong or it means some other condition...
I have always thought there should be a cheaper alternative to PowerBoosts. This would be good for a little microcontroller project, which is exactly what I was looking for.
You are very professional and i like your videos ... keep up the good work my friend
Every time look at your so detail and focus project work ready impressed
I like the way you teach. 👍
Very useful, thank you! I recently touched these kinds of solutions (for portable DIY oscilloscopes projects), so , your tests - good to know! :)
P.S.: that's one heck of a hot summer in Germany, judging by the end of this video... :D
These videos are gold
Great video, really interesting as I just picked up one of these to look after a lipo powering an esp8266 but got utterly confused by the data sheet (lesson learnt there). I'd be really interested to hear your thoughts on over-discharge protection methods, chips and applications!
Me: Buys the module... "it charges the battery Yey!"
GreatScott: "The output current is constant.... But once i lowered the input voltage to the nominal voltage..."
Me: ......
Thanks for this video. I've been looking for an economical way to power some basic LED switcher and seven segment displays for some integrated edge-lit acrylic signs. I hate the idea of cables running from a desk so this lipo+boost converter seems like it would be great.
Thanks for that. I was just looking at boost converters for just this purpose.
Thank you! You have helpt me a lot. Keep up the great videos.
Nice work, I've got some of these in my projects, so it's good to know I should only use protected cells!
And I agree, the Lipo connector is very pesky, being the wrong polarity! (At least on mine anyway, didn't notice whether yours was as well.)
In the outro of this video I saw your quite interesting technique for desoldering SMD components. Looks much easier than fiddling with a soldering iron! ;-)
I'm impressed with your knowledge..! You know you're stuff inside out. Gettings from USA!
More than 600.000 subs getting close to the 1.000.000!!
The coolest video I’ve ever seen!
Great! Thank you very much for the video. I am testing this charger board as well.
Question: What is the name of the adapter that you plug in at 0:07 timecode? The one that is 5.5mm concentric on one side, and socket with 2 screws on other. I could not find similar on aliexpress/ebay mostly because I can't find a name for this thing.
There are lipo chargers built in battery case on ebay (USB Portable External Backup Battery Charger Power Bank For Phones) , they cost less than a 1$, and they have very nice charger and 5V booster , and both USB ports for charging and discharging. I often buy those and just take out that very small pcb with both ports. They working flawlessly. Maybe in next video I present those, you gave me idea, ty GreatScott . Thumbs up from me as usual.
Can you make a video on what parts you always or often keep at hand
Hello! Great vid! Curious what’s the minimum mAh lipo battery these boosters are able to still power a 5v sensor. I tried with a 120mAh and my sensor fades after a while. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for sharing. Good to see the ops and downs. :-)
Your Vids ROCK!! THANKS BRO!!
Hey Great Scott, sorry I'm a bit late to comment to your video, but I've been trying to use 3.7V LI-PO battery to power my camera T3i which needs 7.4V to operate properly, after some digging I found out that I could use 2 boost converters to get to 7.4V required by the camera but I also learned that the capacity of the battery which is 5000mAh will drop significantly if I use such a combination (3.7v to 5V and then 5V to 7.4V), what do you think should I do, and do you think I can build a straight 3.7V to 7.4V charger and boost converter? thank you so much :)
Will you make you own with all features?
I need a battery pack that out puts 5v at 8a. is there any boost converter that can do this, or do I have to buy a few boost converters to accomplish what I want?
12V Auto desoldering feature included, nice :-)
Again grate video...grate scott....!
Thank you for this video. Do that over voltage fry the D1 mini pro when unplugging the charger cable?
Hi! I like your channel very much. I am interested to learn these things. Since I'm also new to electronics, I couldn't understand the part when u lowered the voltage at the input and saw a decrease in the boost voltage output. You said it could lead to over discharge of the battery. I couldn't understand it. can you explain?
It would be good to see you experimenting with some higher power devices, ones that can source a larger current and what measures you might take to handle it.
i need this but for a 12v device... what board could i use with 2s 7.4v that charges internally/protect and output 12v. This has been so hard for me to find, any help would be greatly appreciated!
Great video, can you clarify your equation about how long the battery will last?
I do electronic projects a lot. Besides, I am one of your Chinese fans. If in the future you came across some Chinese websites or data sheets, I am willing to help you!
I can also help you translate your shows and upload them to China's major video sites if you want.
I have a suggestion, do you have a more efficient way to make a certain frequency square wave power supply? Thank you!
Great Greatscott
Did you try preventing overvoltage on the output? I was thinking about using the board as a UPS style powerbank.
this is more practical, but if you need more power on the 5 volt line it is better to use a separated boost module
Definitely
DIYelectronics Agree with u
DIYelectronics and it's still 2 dollars to get both on ebay
DIYelectronics Can you recommend a reliable one? I got one from Amazon but it's crap: an overshoot of almost 23 Volts for almost 1 second that fried my IC's....
Hello GreatScott, as a long time viewer I'd like to point out that you are really doing a great job, one can always rely on your expertise and your great videos.
I also happen to be from Germany and wanted to ask you where buy your LiPo cells, chinese eBay sellers are not allowed to deliver them to us, as far as I know.
Do you have any reliable and inexpensive source for those?
Hey bro is it possible to make a class d amp using igbt or igbt brick.
I've tried that same setup to bring a 3.8V lithium battery to 18V in order to power an active bass preamp circuit, it works but the noise is unbeareable, there's as much noise as the signal. I've switched the step up converter for a bigger one based on the XL6009, half the noise is gone, but still it's too noisy to use. Any idea how to get a clean dc for audio application out of a boost converter?
Do you think a Zener diode is suitable for leveling out that minor voltage spike when you hook up external power? Or should I use a voltage limiter IC instead?
Hey Greatscott
I would like to connect the output from the step up directly to a microcontroller, but I don't want to kill him. How can I protect the microcontroller? (Overvoltage as you explained in your Video)
Thanks for this nice video
Just a thought... Have you tried testing the maximum output current with the battery? The Input impedance of the source (battery vs bench power supply) makes great difference in the performance of the boost converter especially under load. I'd bet, the battery handles the current spikes from the boost converter better than the output filter of the bench power supply you are using (and don't forget the current protection kicking in from time to time). At least you could try placing a big (>1000uF) low esr capacitor at the battery terminals when testing with PSU and add a series inductance between the capacitor and the PSU. Otherwise, great video. Thanks!
What do you recommend if you want stable 3.3V instead of 5V from the battery? Given that 3.3V is so similar to the battery's 4V and when discharged can get to 3.3V, would it be a smart idea to use just a buck converter or an LDO?
Andreas Spiess might have you covered, if memory serves.
Great video, thanks for sharing
You should used powerbanks modules, they are faily cheap, can provide around 500mA at the output of the boost converter and around 1A of charging current. And also they have the battery protection circuit. I have been using these circuits for a while and they work like a charm on all my portable proyects with LiPos and 18650 Li-Ion battery cells. Anyways, great video, as always
With the separate charger and booster, didn't you have to replace a resistor to calibrate the charging circuit? Or is the newer 3 chip version smarter than the old single chip TP4056?
Nice vid. I would like to see a similar circuit with auto-shutoff to protect LiPo battery from over charging cuz too often I forget to unplug them and ruin the battery. Not to mention the danger of over charging.
Ha, your video starts using the same components as my latest video in which I crammed those two boards with a LiPo battery and a switch in the tin can of an old 9V battery.
Thanks for another Interesting video! I have plenty of those charger and boost boards you show in the intro of your video. Good to see your test of this alternative. I measured the MT3608 board to take over one mA of quiescent current. Seeing this alternative board using so much less is a great feature,. Despite its shortcomings it may be quite useful in practice.
Perhaps you can also test the very cheap combination (+/- 0,70 euro) of the TP charger board and that 5V boost converter with the female USB outlet?
Hello GreatScott!,
I have the same step up converter shown in the first 50 seconds of the video. If I connect the deviece to a powersource I only get 12V out which never change although I rotate the poti. I have testet two of the devieces and it was the same. Are they broken or do I make a mistake.
+GreatScott! I've been wanting to get into circuit building but I have no idea on how to go about finding information. I'd like to learn how to think things out for myself instead of looking at pre-made diagrams of circuits (I'm currently looking into making unique guitar effects pedals for myself). Do you think you could possibly make a video dedicated to the math and explanation behind a few basic parallel and series circuits with multiple components? I'm sure a few others would benefit from it as well.
*I'm also new to this channel :D
Hi
Have you ever thought of using small USB "Power Bank" circuits ? It's a great solution and it work perfectly for me ! Cheap, Small, With a screen or not, overcharge and discharge protect... (Depending on the circuit selected)
In addition, they are very easy to find online or in a local store 🙂
GreatScott, the over discharge protection of the tp4056 kicks in at 2.5 volts. I have constantly read that 3 volts is the absolute minimum voltage that a lipo battery should be at before damage occurs. Is there something I am missing because every protection board I have come across has the same 2.5 volt cut off. Is this safe/a good idea? I do know that under a load a battery has a lower voltage and when the load is removed the battery gains back some voltage. I still wonder wether that cut off is too low.
TP4056 is designed for 18650 cells which can be safely discharged to 2.5v.
@@tedhancock68 No way. I was using those exact batteries and no lithium ion or lithium polymer battery goes undamaged at 2.5V. I'd love for you to prove me wrong with sources though because my project is lacking the safety circuitry for low voltage cut off.
@@Andrew-my1cp Here is the spec sheet for MH-1, but I've never seen a cutoff voltage different than 2.5v on even the cheapest cells. datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/1160665/LG/INR18650-MH1/1
@@tedhancock68 Interesting. I always see people saying that the cells start to get damaged after 3V. I never understood why they always have the cutoff so low.
@@Andrew-my1cp That's for LiPo. This module was designed for LiIo.
how did you de-solder the connector?
Are there any alternatives of the same chip ? I am looking for something which has exactly the same chip but the only catch Is that i need the protection features and also the boost current of at least 1A (which is actually claimed by this chip )
Don't know much about electricity or circuits but I just replaced my MacBook battery and they have that battery in it . Can I use this to charge all the cells or is this only for small rigs . Don't want to throw it out cause it's still got good charge just don't know how to wire it charge or take charge from it and not die thanks .
Great test! Thanks! I wanted to buy this, but yet I will seach something else.
Not testing Modules actually! Can you make a video about BLE with HC-08 for example? Thanks!
hi. Thanks for the detailed analysis as usual. I bought a couple of these WemosD1 modules for my project exactly with the intention to have one module cover over discharge, charge and boost. When I got them and tested - I realized WemosD1 drains the batteries through this module down to 1.6V - what a major disappointment! I think without discharge protection these modules are useless.
May I suggest to add to your title "Wemos D1 battery shield" so that others looking for a review of this shield would find your video? If I saw this before - I would not have bought the pair.
Always great
You can see the number of sold TP5410`s in the last hour on Ebay increasing after your Video xD
I like your writinh
And your work
this guy is amazing :)
Hi there!! the R330 is a resistor or inductor? in schematics it looks like a RC filter for the input voltage pin.
nice one, thank you! It would be awesome if you could make a video about transformerless power supply design, you know the one they make with capacitors ( sorry my field of study is computer science not electronics :D ) to convert 240v-120v AC to 5V DC.
Kamran Aghlami no transformer means no isolation, if a fault occurs you could potentially have line voltage in your circuit and that's deadly
@rogert151 you are right, see? I thought this would make a good topic to make a video upon since the name is very tempting for some one who does not know a lot and who is trying to make lightweight and small circuits where transformers are too bulky to consider.
I'd like to see musts and mustn'ts of such power supplies, formulas to calculate power delivery and such.
and of curse I can google all of that, but such video is a need in youtube since there is not much already and our fellow friend @GreatScott! is brilliant at explaining stuff.
So it seemed like a good idea to me to ask for a video like that, so i did.
(apologies for broken english)
@Jan Ciger Well I have failed to die by electrocution a couple of times already, enough to understand what I'm doing when I'm around main's lines, (or is it ever enough?) thanks for the notice though.
I've heard some about how poor they perform, that's what I'm seeking. how Good/Bad of an idea it is to use them, dangers and hazards, why they exist then, formulas for power delivery and such.
(apologies for broken english)
Great video!
Is there something like this that can boost up to 12v output for LED strip or will you have to then connect this circuit to another step up converter to achieve 12v output?
Thank you for video. Can you create a portable laptop charger out of salvaged laptops batteries?
I keep on seeing an ad for an oscilloscope in your videos, I dont remember the exact model number, but it's supposed to be eight instruments in one. Can you test that?
Good video!
I'm wondering... Why not just use the circuit in a cheap, single cell battery pack like the ones from the dollar store. They charge the battery and boost to 5V on output, they have built-in protection(usually), and they come with a battery you can use elsewhere. Even the case can be useful!
Robert Cartier true
They are based on the TP5400 IC, so the behavior should be similar. Only difference though is that they use a 6.8uH inductor instead of the 4.7uH on GreatScott's board.
Does this board do genuine load sharing? Meaning I could have this always plugged into USB and have it function as a mini-UPS when power goes out? I looked at a regular TP4056 and see that depending on the size of the load, it'll cause the battery to never detect end of charge and potentially cause issues. I'm looking to make some DIY emergency lights for power outages where it'll just be running a small constant current through an LED and if power goes out the battery will kick in to keep the LED going.
Have a 40v lithium ion ryobi battery.. .any idea what the maximum bulk charge voltage and current should use?
I like your handwriting. 👍
Does this board allow you to power your project while charging the battery like the powerboost 1000?
You should check one of those Regulated e-cigarette mods. Evic VTC Mini for example would be a great thing to test, I'd love to see what type of circuit they use to regulate temperature of the atomizer resistance. They have this thing called Temperature Control, and Voltage control, and even bypass mode which theoretically acts as if the mod is outputting the Voltage of the battery .
Hi I am really impressed about your skills, did you already try to charge small battery capacity ? Under 750mah ?
I would like to see a video about this 🙂
If I added over-voltage spike protection and a capacitor to the output of the boost converter, could I use this board as a short term uninterruptible power supply for a low current 5v device?
What are the tiny terminals on the back D+ and D-? For my project I need to power up this board by soldering wires. I was hoping that that's what those terminals are for
@GreatScott! Nice video Scott! This though did not work for me for the following reasons:
1. output is not constant 5V, it is USB voltage - 0.2V.
2. without USB voltage, it gave 3.7V or the battery voltage as the output, without any boost.
So, I'll go back to the first solution that you showed - boost circuit + batt charging circuit.
Maybe I'll look to combine them as you showed in one of your other videos.
Thank you for making these amazing videos!
Gave me confidence to make my own LiPo powered projects :) (y)
Can you suggest me module work like inverter circuit with lion cells which mean at same time I power device. If mains supply supply is off the device start working using lion battery
I love this channel..
Thank you :-)
hi Scott, I am planning to use TP4056. what is ur view ? any recommendations ?
What's the name of that blue switch next to the battery?
Hi GreatScott. Have you, by any chance, come across the "bq25703a" charger from Texas Inst.?
Was there a minimum current draw requirement from the load? Like how some boost circuits require the load to draw over 140mA in order to stay on?