Simple Straight Line Jig with MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamp
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2016
- www.microjig.com/products/mat...
Many Thanks to Zach at Southern Ginger Workshop for this great idea!
See how our MATCHFIT Dovetail clamps and ZEROPLAY Guide Bars let you create a quick and safe straight line rip jig for your shop.
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We love getting new ideas from our community. Whenever we get clever projects and plans from our friends around the world we want to make sure everyone benefits to work safer and smarter.
Products we used:
MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps: www.microjig.com/products/matc...
ZEROPLAY Guide Bars: www.microjig.com/products/zero...
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Work Safer. Work Smarter. - Ігри
And the Hits Just keep coming with the MicroJig Dovetail clamp system. And the new one that just came out is even greater if that's possible !!!!
I have a small router table. I just clamp a fence to the work part and run it against the edge of the router table.
One of these days soon, I will mount the router on my Delta saw and use the Delta fence...
Philip, there are many paths to a straight edge. You gotta choose the one that best fits your current shop set up. As we build our shops, methods change.
draw a go no go line for your clamp then it will be no guess as to where your clamp will be safe
Very cool! Thanks for the shoutout guys! Another thing you could do is cut the jig on both sides of the blade.
Great idea love it
SOLD!
Way to go, Zach! Told you it was a cool jig.
Yeah, I'll just use my Matchfit 360 sled for that.
You certainly can! But some folks like to keep things simple, so we try to show all sorts of ideas and inspiration.
Is that 3/4 inch thick plywood you're using?
0:30 Southern Gingervitis:)
Is there a trick to getting the dovetail bit perfectly centered int eh relief channel when cutting a relief groove with the table saw?
Not really, just lining it up.
It does help to set both tools to the centerline of the groove rather than one edge. Easier on the router table than the saw, but not too hard on either.
Remember too, that the relief groove will be 1/4" wide, and the narrow part of the dovetail will be at least 5/16" with a standard dovetail bit or 0.34" with our bit. So you can be off by as much as 1/32" to either side without missing the relief groove.
@@Microjig Yes, I'm routing the grooves on my workbench top and I find that 1/32" tolerance really helps. Also, I just eyeball the centre of the relief groove while setting up the correct distance (my handheld router base's radius) to the fence/staight edge. If I'm not sure, I butt up the dovetail bit against the edge of the relief groove and line it up perfectly ... takes more time but worth it.
@@sreevatsan Glad to hear you are mastering the technique! Be sure to share your projects!
Nice kickback at 6:32 lol
casi le da en un huevo
I thought putting the nickels under the zero-play guide bars was a great idea. Unfortunately, after buying two guide bars from Microjig, I only had 8 cents left in my bank account. Would a guitar pick and my dog's rabies tag work for this?
Love the comment! The two nickels is useful for the original ZEROPLAY Miter Bars molded in black. If you do not have nickels in your pocket, a couple washers will work. The idea is to adjust the ZEROPLAY near the top of the miter slot since that is where it will be, just under the sled base.
Our new green ZEROPLAY Miter Bars do not require nickels or rabies tags since you mount them to the sled base first and adjust them for fit while on the sled.
You sound like sparky channel
🌹👤👍
Why put a runner on it ? Just run it against your fence!
stevensrspcplusmc exactly what I was thinking
I'm guessing that its because the mitre slots are always going to be perfect, fences can be slightly off...
makes it a bit quickier, i use a jig with the fence at the moment and i find theres a lot of messing around moving the fence left and right. this way you always know exactly were the piece is gonna be cut.
Why don't you use headphones when using a tablesaw?
If you don't have any, you could duct-tape GRR-RIPPERS to your ears :)
Yonatan24 proberly hé try to get Def to dont hear stupid people.but if you are into safety you notice that hé and a lot others dont use blade guard to prevend kick back AND most of the time use the fence wrong and also Heights of the blade when cutting normale wood
Some prefer to use a tablesaw without a riving knife since they feel it's safer.
But being aware of the fact that you're ruining your hearing is what I don't understand...
After 50 years of using every power tool in a carpenters truck on a daily basis my hearing is just fine, never used hearing protection. You safety nuts are, well, nuts.