Complete Floor Refitted - Cooper S Mk3 Restoration - Classic Mini Workshop Pt.24
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2024
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00:00 Intro
Welcome to Marks Mini Cooper S Mk3 build in 1970 and registered in 1971. This Cooper S was last restored in 1997 and had featured in Mini World magazine. Unfortunately 23 years down the line and it's looking tired in some areas so Mark has decided to t
Looking good ...not too shabby !..
Thank you Michael. 😁
Hiya Mark, hope your OK. Great video. You've got your work cut out there mate! Onwards and upwards!!!!
Cheers Dave. No pun intended mate eh! 😂
Making some good progress. Especially as there is a lot to sort out to get it how you like it. 👍
Thank you. Rust free is how i like it. 😅
Getting there, good work.
Thank you Richard. 😎
It’s scary how many repairs a mini shell needs when you start digging under the surface, I’m never digging that deep on mine ! I dread to think what lurks beneath lol 👍
I know, i am finding more as you'll see in future videos. What i dread most is completing the whole build and a few years later rust spots coming through where i didn't dig deep enough!
@@markdraper7 you and Keith always do a professional job on your projects, wish I had the know how! Has heritage ever made an all aluminium shell( no rust) with maybe a full roll cage for strength?
@@peterdemetriou2263, thank you, we appreciate that. I only started learning from 2017 when we started the Bolt build, so anyone can learn! I don't believe anyone has made an all aluminium shell, that i know of. I certainly consider it if they did for a race car.
Once you start... there is no going back..😊
You’re making great progress Mark. It’s amazing how new metal it needed, I would dread to dig that deep into my 83 Mayfair.
Thank you Peter. It seems non stop, but it will be rust free. 🙂
In 1971 I shipped a Mk 3 to the USA, it was illegal because it did not meet the new rules in the States. I took it in as a tourist which was allowed. Hopefully it still resides in Oregon were I sold it. Maybe the only Mark 3 in America ??
It may have been shipped over here, so it might still be alive!
Hi ...Funny-ish story . When i had my first mini an orange 1973 850 mini the rear pockets had cardboard inserts . Well they got damp and when i couldnt find something i had left in the car i was quite annoyed . a few weeks later i checked the rear pockets and my hand went thru the bottom of the cardboard and poked my finger thru the the floor pan and could see the ground . OO i timed it too to 60 mph it took 25 seconds . Never gunna forget that . Rgds Don
Oh no, but that is typical once they start rotting. 😬
Got to admire your commitment to keeping as much original car as possible, but you really need some welding tuition, must be someone local that can give you some pointers re settings on the mig etc, keep at though👏👏👏
Thank you. Yes, i know i do and i have been discussing it and watching videos. I am understanding my welder much more now, which has been mostly understanding the wire speed. I still get frustrated when i make adjustments and the welds don't look great, but i am now getting on top of it. Some people weld for years in their garage to get experience and nobody sees it, but i'm doing the stupid thing of learning and then putting the videos straight on youtube for everyone to wince at! 🤦🏼♂️😅
@@markdraper7 well as you know only to well practice, practice, practice is the answer and if you really want to see something to make you wince, maybe I should send you a video of my wood working failures😱😱😱
@@Mr57blackbeauty, exactly, but probably wasn't the best idea to let the world watch me learn! 😂 Now carpentry is where i really excel, but your woodwork skills can't be as bad as i've seen over the years. 🤦🏼♂️
Your doing a great job. I recommend HMP441012 and HMP441013 if you’ve not sorted out your steps already. They’re big enough to catch any of the rot and fit perfectly. I did the the boot hinge repair panel just like you but afterwards decided that in future I would only ever fit the boot half rear panel if I need that repair - about the same price, much less welding and easier to clean up, and perfect boot alignment. I also fitted the closing panels to the boot floor like you did but then couldn’t get a nice fit to the rear valance (I did dry fit it all first...) so I wonder whether they should be fitted to the valance before the floor...I’d be interested to know how you get on with these? Is this the wrong order or should I have been more careful? Keep up the good work. Cheers Mark
Hi Mark, Thank you, really appreciate the kind words. I've decided to buy the whole door apertures and see how i go when i start cutting them out and gone the heritage route with all panels. I did fit the boot and everything lines up ok so once i've cleaned up some of the welds it will look better than it currently does. I did consider the half boot panel but i felt the cut line would be less noticeable lower down. I have fitted the closing panels and the valance does line up well, but i think a lot of the panels get oversized from the press now so there's always going to be some jiggery pokery. Nothing ever seems to line up great with new to old panels. Cheers for watching. 😎
Ive just found your channel and it looks like I have a lot of viewing ahead of me this weekend. Being over critical of your welding is something that will pass once you get to a point that its coming together and you will have other things to think about. As long as you have good penetration and can grind back a bit is good enough. Better than not enough weld and water gets into the joint.
Your curtain looks exactly what I need to separate the messy work and sparks form the rest of the garage, I cant find anything that fits so well to the ceiling, the ones ive found leave an inch at the top. Do you know where I can get some the same?
Thanks Gavin. Yes, i think it will but just over critical as everyone is watching me learn. 😅 There is a company called Cromwell, www.cromwell.co.uk, they sell 1800x2500mm welding curtains, sku: CTL8857469B. I just bought some 50mm wide velcro and fixed it to the wall/beam/ceiling and stapled it to the curtain to form what i have. It's very effective but dust still gets through so i still cover all the cars behind it. Each curtain then just hangs with a bit of extra at the bottom that i weigh down. Each curtain is velcro'd to the next one and just makes it easier to remove them when i open the garage up again. Cheers for watching and enjoy the many projects we have done so far! 😎
@@markdraper7 thanks I’ll check them out.
What do you reckon the difference would be from all the repairs you're doing vs buying a new shell? (aside from satisfaction (a mans gotta have a hobby) and your clear love of welding!) ..
Did you consider it? time vs cost/effort and quality?
God I admire you both though..
The cost of panels so far is circa £2k, so comparing to a new shell it's much more worthwhile to do the replacement/repairs to keep the value. Obviously my labour is free so there's a huge saving there too. Unless i'm building another race car, i don't think the money is in the cars to consider a re-shell personally. Cheers for watching! 😎
Hi Mark your making good progress and I’m glad your fighting to keep as much of the old shell as possible. Has the jig worked well or are there things you would change. M
Cheers Martin. It seems an impossible task to keep as much as i can, but 10/10 for trying. 😅
Sorry, i forgot to respond to your question about the jig. It's worked very well, but the thing i would change and there is the option to do it is move the front and rear mounting attachments forward or backwards to enable me to get the the toe board/floor junction to weld together. Currently the box section between the front wheel legs gets in the way.
Your biggest mistake is practising your welding on the car !!! Reducing to 6mm is a great start . For bodywork 6mm is ideal . But practise on scrap first ! I guarantee if you play with the settings on scrap you'll master your welding very quickly because you know if you bugger it up it doesn't matter ! That 's exactly why you'll master it ! Obviously you do need to have a half decent mig welder !
Thanks John. I definitely have a decent mig welder so it's just user error lol. Practising on youtube is probably my biggest mistake as you're all seeing me do it. I am getting there and will master it very soon.
Mini's are so fragile. It cost my neighbour £15,000 to have his mk3 Mini Cooper rebuilt.
They are very fragile! That's not a bad figure from stripping to fully rebuilt inc spraying.
@@markdraper7 It was done about 16 yrs ago and now is outside under a sheet of tarpolin.