My core took 67 hours with a .4mm nozzle and .20mm layer height with 4 top and bottom layers, 3 perimeters and 70% infill. I used simplify3d to slice it but have since switched back to cura for now to finish the rest of the primo parts. I tried using a .6mm nozzle to cut down print time but I started having some artifacts in the print that I couldn't figure out so I just went back to the .4mm. I'm rebuilding my entire mpcnc at once and am looking forwardto some of the issues I've had with certain parts being fixed. Thanks for the video!
For me, the good was being able to make replacement parts and customize the machine to what I needed. Over the time I had the MPCNC, I used it as a laser cutter, wood router, foamboard cutter, and pen plotter. There is also a ton of community support out there. The Primo core helped a lot with some rigidity issues I had, and I wish I had rebuilt the entire machine using the Primo design instead of the older Burly model. In my experience, the machine took a bit of time and effort to dial in, and I had to do more routine maintenance than I expected to keep it running smoothly. This isn't really a "bad" thing, since I enjoy that sort of fiddling around and re-configuring to do whatever I found interesting at the time. I probably wouldn't have had to do so much maintenance if I was focusing on a single use (routing wood OR cutting foamboard OR pen plotting). Since posting this video, I've moved to a smaller place and gave up the MPCNC, but it was a lot of fun to mess around with at the time. I still have all the steppers and electronics, so If I get the space again, I might rebuild it.
@@jothain No way is it slow for such a big print. Even on a Voron. Mind you - mine's an old 2.2..no direct extrusion, old rails, etc. It definitely doesn't print well in comparison to the new ones.
github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MPCNC_Primo I used the C STLs since that is the conduit size I have. You'll have to print some of the brackets as well. The full list of parts is on that page as well.
@@GeoffintheGarage Thanks it was exactly what I needed so I can get started with this project, I use 25mm tubes instead because I want to see if it is possible to put a 2.2kw spindle on But thanks for the help and your time 🙂
hear me out dudes, first you print a cube and cats it in aluminum to know the shrinkage rates. then you solve the problem with casting shrinkage and cast all Z axis in aluminum. 1) no need for thicker walls, a lot of infill for stiffness. 2) saving plastic 3) saving print time drastically 4) added stiffness.
That looked really great Geoff! Way more information than I was expecting but super clear. I think the format works really well!
Thanks for showing your video. I’m just about to redo my mpcnc machine. I didn’t know that the parts had been changed.
Glad to hear it helped! Good luck with the redo, I like the redesign of the parts
My core took 67 hours with a .4mm nozzle and .20mm layer height with 4 top and bottom layers, 3 perimeters and 70% infill. I used simplify3d to slice it but have since switched back to cura for now to finish the rest of the primo parts. I tried using a .6mm nozzle to cut down print time but I started having some artifacts in the print that I couldn't figure out so I just went back to the .4mm. I'm rebuilding my entire mpcnc at once and am looking forwardto some of the issues I've had with certain parts being fixed. Thanks for the video!
Wow, that's a long print. At 0.2mm and 70%, that has got to be a solid piece!
@@GeoffintheGarage I found there were tolerance issues with .6 nozzle where the bearings insert.
Hey Buddy Great Video ... can you do a setup step by step on mpcnc dual stopper we don't have any good video .. Thanks
It has been awhile since you got your MPCNC going. What are its good and bad points for you?
For me, the good was being able to make replacement parts and customize the machine to what I needed. Over the time I had the MPCNC, I used it as a laser cutter, wood router, foamboard cutter, and pen plotter. There is also a ton of community support out there. The Primo core helped a lot with some rigidity issues I had, and I wish I had rebuilt the entire machine using the Primo design instead of the older Burly model.
In my experience, the machine took a bit of time and effort to dial in, and I had to do more routine maintenance than I expected to keep it running smoothly. This isn't really a "bad" thing, since I enjoy that sort of fiddling around and re-configuring to do whatever I found interesting at the time. I probably wouldn't have had to do so much maintenance if I was focusing on a single use (routing wood OR cutting foamboard OR pen plotting).
Since posting this video, I've moved to a smaller place and gave up the MPCNC, but it was a lot of fun to mess around with at the time. I still have all the steppers and electronics, so If I get the space again, I might rebuild it.
@@GeoffintheGarage Thank you very much. This was very helpful.
Did the Core in 16 hours at 0.3 layer height, 0.4 nozzle on my Voron 2.2
That's quite slow? How come?
@@jothain No way is it slow for such a big print. Even on a Voron. Mind you - mine's an old 2.2..no direct extrusion, old rails, etc. It definitely doesn't print well in comparison to the new ones.
where can I find the stl file for that core?
github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MPCNC_Primo I used the C STLs since that is the conduit size I have. You'll have to print some of the brackets as well. The full list of parts is on that page as well.
@@GeoffintheGarage Thanks it was exactly what I needed so I can get started with this project, I use 25mm tubes instead because I want to see if it is possible to put a 2.2kw spindle on
But thanks for the help and your time 🙂
PrintedNC is better. Dont waist your time
and much, much more expensive
hear me out dudes, first you print a cube and cats it in aluminum to know the shrinkage rates. then you solve the problem with casting shrinkage and cast all Z axis in aluminum. 1) no need for thicker walls, a lot of infill for stiffness. 2) saving plastic 3) saving print time drastically 4) added stiffness.