To add few for the common issues for both S40 and V50; - CEM-module: Causes huge variety of random electrical issues that randomly appear and disappear, for me most of the problems disappeared also when I just gave the module a light tap 😂 but ALL the electrical problems ended when I detached the module and sprayed every relay and connector with electronics spray. If it has to be replaced I'd think it costs quite a bit, but I haven't had to replace it yet myself. - Trunk wiring loom (fixable by soldering) and micro switch (30€): Trunk just won't open, again a little bit of whacking may solve it for momentarily, but naturally fix it asap since sooner or later it won't open at all! - Front wheel bearings (40-100€/each depending on brand): This is something I have read a lot about, but I have changed them only once and don't know how old the last ones were. I've driven with the current ones around 30-40k now. Suspension kits/lowering springs etc. also may affect to the wear of these, I'd guess mine is lowered around 35mm front and 25mm (it was lowered when I got it so don't remember now exactly how much) - Headlight projector mirrors for dipped beams (at least on the halogen version, no idea about the cost): I haven't bothered changing it, but I can tell huge difference on my car versus on my sister's car which has new headlights. In addition to this I have had to replace 2 or 3 sensors (around 40-50€/each) but this may be just bad luck. Other good to know things if you're considering to buy one or if you have one; - High beams are not that great especially if you compare to bit newer cars, so if you drive a lot in the dark I highly recommend some basic cheap 100-200€ led-bar. I got Walonia Pursuit myself and can recommend it. - Stage 1 tune can be done with stock parts and depending on the tune it increases around +-40hp and +-80nm of torque. For the tune I got the limiters for 1st and 2nd gear torque are still on, but 3rd gear pulls SO MUCH BETTER I can't even describe it, not even with all caps. 🤣 After the tune 3rd gear is perfect for overtaking anywhere on speeds 60km/h and up. - At least here insurance costs are double/triple LOWER than BMW/MB/Audi with similar horsepower/performance and the spare parts for Volvo are also generally quite cheap or even very cheap compared to the other 3 brands mentioned. So you end up saving quite a lot while still getting a car that is averagely rapid (especially with the tune).
i bought one of these recently for much more than 500$ lol. bought the car for 5k and then found out coolant was in the engine...running me another 1,000$ for labor, thankfully very little damage was done it has 112,000 miles no awd and runs like a champ. only other maintenance ive had to do so far is clean the exhaust side engine solenoid. so far my sunroof has not leaked yet *knock on wood*
the head gasket was blown which is why coolant got into the engine. i paid more than i wanted to but i know the car will last me many years to come. Its my first car and im hoping it will be a great experience for learning how to work on cars. i really like volvos, i plan on doing slight performance upgrades like cold air intake and a downpipe/exhuast for when i move out from my parents house ( they dont like loud cars). lmk if you have had any other issues with the car.
We definitely got very lucky finding one that needed some work! There are some coolant hoses toward the back of the engine bay that are notorious for coming apart at the clamp too, so be sure to check that out. These cars don't have a coolant level sensor and won't tell you when you're low on coolant, wouldn't want to overheat it! This has been my favorite car so far, and I plan on driving it until it doesn't anymore.
Thanks for your well structured videos about your beautiful v50! I just wanted to tell you though that unlike your 2 other nice videos about this car, this time you forgot to make your license plate unreadable... God bless you!
I am considering purchasing an 06 V50 T5 for about $4K. I'm not a stranger to turning a wrench but I know absolutely nothing about Volvos or Euro cars in general. I've always heard stories about how hard they are to work on. In your experience with the car, how difficult are they to DIY?
Compared to many other European cars, I think a V50 will be much less complex to work on and won’t require as much maintenance overall. They are good motors and I don’t know of any common issues - the biggest thing I’d give attention to is the cooling system making sure there are no cracks etc. It’s crazy but Volvo didn’t put a coolant level sensor in these cars so you don’t want to get caught with no coolant! I don’t believe the auto transmissions are as problematic as some of the earlier XC70s and S80s, ours was replaced around 134k right before we bought the car One other thing is the sunroof drains, I’ve mentioned these in a lot of comments but I’d say it’s the greatest risk to this generation of Volvos. If you buy one with a sunroof, it’s worth it to take the pillar trims off to make sure the drainage tubes are still connected & maybe even extend the connection
@@cruisecontrolcars Thanks for the reply. I actually purchased it yesterday. Previous owner had the sunroof issue but fixed it. The headline is a bit messed up though. Hopefully it will last me for a while. Neat little car. Take care.
You didn't talk about the common rear top Struts breaking, driveshaft with the centre bearing issues causing vibrations especially for driven hard ones, ecm connections etc
Luckily haven't had those issues yet, pretty sure the CEM module did get wet a few weeks ago from a water leak. Alarm started going off at 2AM and pixels on the dashboard got funky. Fixed the leak and aired the car out and luckily no issues since!
We definitely got lucky with ours! If you can find one that needs some work, most buyers tend to stay away and you could probably get it for pretty cheap.
3.5?! that's nothing! :D i paid EUR 6.5k for a 2007 1.8 gasoline in NL :D in july 2021; it had 165k km; 2 months ago replaced the dynamo; so far so good, making ~2km a month with it; love it :)
how risky is it to buy a used Volvo with 200,000 miles on the clock? If all the scheduled maintenance has been done with records, how much life is left in these high milage cars? thanks!
They’re all really well built models! The V70R will likely be the most expensive to maintain (but also the most fun to drive). The V50 was manufactured during Ford’s ownership of Volvo, which I think is why they have such a simplistic interior. The V50 seems to have a lot less high-tech that could break and be expensive to repair. An automatic S60 or S80 could be at risk for transmission issues soon. If you could find one, I would say go for a V50 with no sunroof and a manual transmission!
The sunroof drains are notorious from disconnecting and dumping water into the interior, simple fix though I’d recommend asking if it’s been done if you’re looking at one / doing it to yours ASAP!
Yeah,all of them are not the same..i got my 2005 V50 AWD T5 M66 for $700 13 months ago..since then i have put $5000 into it..done all the work myself as well..my main issues are the CEM causing multiple problems including limp mode..and rust..all the ford parts rusted horribly..bad DEM,AOC pump..Axles which were $1000 each..but whatever..i love my car
![2005 Volvo V50 T5 AWD Full Review [3.5 Years of Ownership]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eEME3Tdslho/mqdefault.jpg)
To add few for the common issues for both S40 and V50;
- CEM-module: Causes huge variety of random electrical issues that randomly appear and disappear, for me most of the problems disappeared also when I just gave the module a light tap 😂 but ALL the electrical problems ended when I detached the module and sprayed every relay and connector with electronics spray. If it has to be replaced I'd think it costs quite a bit, but I haven't had to replace it yet myself.
- Trunk wiring loom (fixable by soldering) and micro switch (30€): Trunk just won't open, again a little bit of whacking may solve it for momentarily, but naturally fix it asap since sooner or later it won't open at all!
- Front wheel bearings (40-100€/each depending on brand): This is something I have read a lot about, but I have changed them only once and don't know how old the last ones were. I've driven with the current ones around 30-40k now. Suspension kits/lowering springs etc. also may affect to the wear of these, I'd guess mine is lowered around 35mm front and 25mm (it was lowered when I got it so don't remember now exactly how much)
- Headlight projector mirrors for dipped beams (at least on the halogen version, no idea about the cost): I haven't bothered changing it, but I can tell huge difference on my car versus on my sister's car which has new headlights.
In addition to this I have had to replace 2 or 3 sensors (around 40-50€/each) but this may be just bad luck.
Other good to know things if you're considering to buy one or if you have one;
- High beams are not that great especially if you compare to bit newer cars, so if you drive a lot in the dark I highly recommend some basic cheap 100-200€ led-bar. I got Walonia Pursuit myself and can recommend it.
- Stage 1 tune can be done with stock parts and depending on the tune it increases around +-40hp and +-80nm of torque. For the tune I got the limiters for 1st and 2nd gear torque are still on, but 3rd gear pulls SO MUCH BETTER I can't even describe it, not even with all caps. 🤣 After the tune 3rd gear is perfect for overtaking anywhere on speeds 60km/h and up.
- At least here insurance costs are double/triple LOWER than BMW/MB/Audi with similar horsepower/performance and the spare parts for Volvo are also generally quite cheap or even very cheap compared to the other 3 brands mentioned. So you end up saving quite a lot while still getting a car that is averagely rapid (especially with the tune).
i bought one of these recently for much more than 500$ lol. bought the car for 5k and then found out coolant was in the engine...running me another 1,000$ for labor, thankfully very little damage was done it has 112,000 miles no awd and runs like a champ. only other maintenance ive had to do so far is clean the exhaust side engine solenoid.
so far my sunroof has not leaked yet *knock on wood*
the head gasket was blown which is why coolant got into the engine. i paid more than i wanted to but i know the car will last me many years to come. Its my first car and im hoping it will be a great experience for learning how to work on cars. i really like volvos, i plan on doing slight performance upgrades like cold air intake and a downpipe/exhuast for when i move out from my parents house ( they dont like loud cars). lmk if you have had any other issues with the car.
We definitely got very lucky finding one that needed some work! There are some coolant hoses toward the back of the engine bay that are notorious for coming apart at the clamp too, so be sure to check that out. These cars don't have a coolant level sensor and won't tell you when you're low on coolant, wouldn't want to overheat it!
This has been my favorite car so far, and I plan on driving it until it doesn't anymore.
Thanks for your well structured videos about your beautiful v50!
I just wanted to tell you though that unlike your 2 other nice videos about this car, this time you forgot to make your license plate unreadable...
God bless you!
Thank you so much!! I noticed this shortly after I posted the video but it’s one of the best videos on the channel so I’ve decided to leave it!
@@cruisecontrolcars You're very welcome!! I got you; that's right: it's a great video 😊👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
I am considering purchasing an 06 V50 T5 for about $4K. I'm not a stranger to turning a wrench but I know absolutely nothing about Volvos or Euro cars in general. I've always heard stories about how hard they are to work on. In your experience with the car, how difficult are they to DIY?
Compared to many other European cars, I think a V50 will be much less complex to work on and won’t require as much maintenance overall. They are good motors and I don’t know of any common issues - the biggest thing I’d give attention to is the cooling system making sure there are no cracks etc. It’s crazy but Volvo didn’t put a coolant level sensor in these cars so you don’t want to get caught with no coolant!
I don’t believe the auto transmissions are as problematic as some of the earlier XC70s and S80s, ours was replaced around 134k right before we bought the car
One other thing is the sunroof drains, I’ve mentioned these in a lot of comments but I’d say it’s the greatest risk to this generation of Volvos. If you buy one with a sunroof, it’s worth it to take the pillar trims off to make sure the drainage tubes are still connected & maybe even extend the connection
@@cruisecontrolcars Thanks for the reply. I actually purchased it yesterday. Previous owner had the sunroof issue but fixed it. The headline is a bit messed up though. Hopefully it will last me for a while. Neat little car. Take care.
Nice! Enjoy it they’re great cars
Unintended acceleration sounds scary. Is that exhaust stock? Car sounds nice!
It sure does! And yes, it's the original exhaust. The 5 cylinder kicks ass!
You didn't talk about the common rear top Struts breaking, driveshaft with the centre bearing issues causing vibrations especially for driven hard ones, ecm connections etc
Luckily haven't had those issues yet, pretty sure the CEM module did get wet a few weeks ago from a water leak. Alarm started going off at 2AM and pixels on the dashboard got funky. Fixed the leak and aired the car out and luckily no issues since!
$500... the same car cost the equivalent of $3500 in my country :(
We definitely got lucky with ours! If you can find one that needs some work, most buyers tend to stay away and you could probably get it for pretty cheap.
3.5?! that's nothing! :D i paid EUR 6.5k for a 2007 1.8 gasoline in NL :D in july 2021; it had 165k km; 2 months ago replaced the dynamo; so far so good, making ~2km a month with it; love it :)
how risky is it to buy a used Volvo with 200,000 miles on the clock? If all the scheduled maintenance has been done with records, how much life is left in these high milage cars? thanks!
I’ve seen Volvo’s with 300,000 miles! What year and model are you looking at? Is it an automatic or a manual transmission?
@@cruisecontrolcars I'm looking at v70R, v50, s60, s80 automatic trans, 2.5 T motors. 2004-2010
They’re all really well built models! The V70R will likely be the most expensive to maintain (but also the most fun to drive). The V50 was manufactured during Ford’s ownership of Volvo, which I think is why they have such a simplistic interior. The V50 seems to have a lot less high-tech that could break and be expensive to repair. An automatic S60 or S80 could be at risk for transmission issues soon. If you could find one, I would say go for a V50 with no sunroof and a manual transmission!
@@cruisecontrolcars what's the problem with the sunroof?
The sunroof drains are notorious from disconnecting and dumping water into the interior, simple fix though I’d recommend asking if it’s been done if you’re looking at one / doing it to yours ASAP!
Yeah,all of them are not the same..i got my 2005 V50 AWD T5 M66 for $700 13 months ago..since then i have put $5000 into it..done all the work myself as well..my main issues are the CEM causing multiple problems including limp mode..and rust..all the ford parts rusted horribly..bad DEM,AOC pump..Axles which were $1000 each..but whatever..i love my car
Why in fucking UK most of nice cars doesnt exists in best versions - like here AWD. Lancer ralliart.. only in shitback.. :(