I’d love to hear what you thought of this video, was it helpful, enjoyable, easy to follow? Please let me know your thoughts by dropping a comment below 👇 Remember, for discount Warhammer minis, paints and more... be sure to check out this link: bit.ly/2Zmbd3u If you did like enjoy this video please help support the channel and SUBSCRIBE ua-cam.com/users/brushstrokepaintingguides 🙂
A Deathwing Knight ended up being GW's Free Miniature of the Month of April 2024! Looking for ways to paint the one I picked up led me to this video. :)
Note on primer- I use the wraithbone rattle can a lot. I find for my best results I start with Chaos Black, wait for it to dry. Zandri Dust next for a lighter brown colour, and then use the wraithbone as final zenith highlighting. This leaves all the darker colours looking like shadows without being totally blackened
This is something I can do! I like this because it's mostly : put paint here. There are no overly complex techniques here. It really is just thin your paint, go slow when doing fine parts, take your time, paint to brush to model. Thanks!!
Just recently got back into the hobby again. Bought a box of Deathwing Knights around two weeks ago, as a painting project, just because they looked so cool to me, even though I dont own any other Space Marines. On the same day I saw your community post regarding this video and just couldnt wait for it to be released. Now its finally here and it is just great. Your comtent really helped me getting back into painting, as well as becoming better at it and I just wanted to let you know, how much I appreciate you and your videos!
Thank you, that’s so kind of you to take the time to comment. It’s really nice to hear my videos genuinely help people enjoy the hobby I love. It makes the hours of editing worth it 🙏
TTC paints seem to suit my clean and smooth painting style for sure. I get excited when I find a paint which really clicks with me and right now TTC are really clicking :)
Love this tutorial - great instructions, and the end result looks super clean with great colors but most importantly also seems very achievable with a little patience and attention to detail! I love how your videos showcase what one can achieve with really solid fundamentals. I’ll be painting up my own deathwing box soon and will be playing this video again in the background as I do so
Haha thank you I try really hard to make my videos as good as I can. So, it’s always nice to hear people look forward to them being released. Thanks for the support 👍
Some great recipes here. I'm actually working multiple Deathwing terminators as part of a commission and I definitely will be using some of these color recipes on them. Thanks for the tips as always 👍
Oooooof another amazing video smashed out the park by my fav painter. As someone who has painted 20 termies over the last few weeks, it's really refreshing to see how different your DW style is to mine. Starting my DWK's today and will be following your guide this time round. Much love
Love the video once again. Since I have been loving the two thin coats range, would you have any recommendations on switching up the Scale75 paints for respective two thin coats paints for the regular green armour of the Dank Angels ?
Thanks man Regarding my regular Dark Angel green armour recipe, I’m sticking with my Scale75 version as I think the matte green looks really menacing on them and having a different but still complementary recipe for the Deathwing robes sets them apart just enough to keep them interesting and still part of the same army. Of course, I realise not everyone has the luxury of having all those paints so if I had to pick one range right now, I’d go with the TTCs
I made an attempt to airbrush the base coat on my Deathwing using Wraithbone and it did not go well to put it mildly. I switched to VMA Aged White which is almost a dead match for Wraithbone and had a much easier time of it. If I ever expand my Deathwing (and it's summer or fall) I will try the spray can though,
Oh, sorry to hear that. If the VMA works better for you then go with that man. No point making things harder for yourself. Go with what works for you 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesI’ve had tons of success with other GW paints in the airbrush, but anything in that white/offwhite range just causes so many problems. For pure whites like on a zenithal I use the PA Bold Titanium White and that stuff is magic.
Thank you. I tried a few different recipes and this is the one I liked the result of best and it just so happened to be the most compatible with batch painting multiple minis too. So, win win 👍 Please let me know how you get on with following the recipe
That guy is butter smooth! I’ve really fallen in love with Scale75 their paints after some time getting used to how they behave. Their metallics are also really cool. I wanna try Dark Star paints, but nobody near me seems to stock them.
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides The Netherlands. A lot of stuff is a little iffy to get here. Need to import stuff more than I’d like. Doubly so since I’ll always prefer to just walk into a store and see the bottle for myself first.
I absolutely love the smoothness of the Wraith bone and the application process. Very clean, no pulling, running or coffee stains etc. I do however feel like it could use some more contrast in the form of recess shading. Maybe some light tone, or XV-88 thinned or Skeleton Horde. As is, it looks like a Joy Toy Deathwing figure. Not a bad thing at all just more toy like.
Thanks man I totally get what you mean. The pics are losing a little of the shading which you can see in person. I think the lighting has flooded it away. Using a stronger recess colour is always an option if you’d prefer a stronger definition too though. 👍 Making things individual and personal to you is the best thing about this hobby, so go for it 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thank you for the advice and again I can’t stress enough how smooth that Wraithbone with Skeleton Horde looks. Looks great.
The GW sprays are also intended to be used as primers. They dont bond to the plastic like a automotive primer, or form a film like (Vallejo's) polyurethane primers, but they get the job done. You will want to do a layer of the potted paint after though, because the finish of the spray is different. Or sometimes the hue as well. (Mechanicus Standard Grey spray is a lot bluer than the potted one.)
@@sbeaber well, it depends on how you handle it as well. If you hold the model directly as you paint, it can rub off on the corners. Especially if you don't give it enough time to dry. I recommend a painting handle and gloves, at least on the hand holding the handle. The gloves are soft, and not covered in oils and such, like your skin. That can rub off the paint.
Hey man, love your vids. Surprised you dont have way more subscribers honestly. Wanted to asked , do you have a favorite line for metallic paints. I only have citadel and Vallejo paints right now. They are very inconsistent in their coverage though. I really want to try 2 thin coats line of paints. I hear good things. Also dark angels are my army so this is great!
Nothing touches Vallejo metallic line (the ones in the larger bottles, not the basic line), but I've also heard the speed paint metallics are very very good.
Brilliant as ever. Quick question. On your dark angel video, you used black forest green from scale 75. Would you still use that as a base or do you prefer the two thin coats as in this video? Thanks
the scale75 black forest I really liked for the armour of Dark Angels because it has the cool ultra matte finish. I didnt think that really worked for material of the robes though, so I opted for the more statin finish two thin coats. It just offers that bit of difference between the units when you have them side by side. Of course, I dont expect people togo out and buy loads of paints just for robes etc, so the black forest green recipe will work just fine too :)
Bonjour.Merci pour cette vidéo. Le pouvoir couvrant des peintures que vous utilisez a l'air d'etre excellent, j'utilise habituellement des pzeintures et pigments vallejo, mig et tamiya. je suis curieux de la tester , perso , maquettiste sur du blindé au 1/35 depuis 30 ans et aujourd'hui j'aimerais me lancer dans la figurine WH40 K, la seul chose qui me freine c'est ma vue, car c'est une echelle petite qui demande bcp de precision pour de beau rendu. Encore merci pour votre travail
2 questions: How long it usually takes you to complete model from start to finish? How are you tackling the bigger paint jobs, like squads or armies? I see that each time is a single model and I can imagine painting, let's say, 5 deathwing knights to the same standard as in the video might take a while? Do you "take shortcuts" or do each model start to finish each time like you do in the vids?
Both great questions So, the time to paint an individual mini would be about 3-5 hours but there’s drying time in that. Now, where it gets interesting is when you do this as a batch paint. I’ve designed this recipe to work for batch painting, so as one’s drying you can move on to another and so on. I find it works best with 3-5 minis of this size. So, i could do a box of these guys over a weekend to this level. Just not filming it, as that triples the time but don’t get me started on that 🤣
Love some help with scale 75 paints. I’m using abysal blue and after it dries it has this shinny patchy look. I thin them 1:1 in a way if 1:2 paint water and it still has this look. Why does the paint look like this? Too much water, not enough ? Love the help much love
Awesome video, probably the main reason i decided to get a box of deathwing myself. Any chance you’ll make video how you did the lettering on the shield?
Awesome, glad it inspired you to get some. And some even better news for you, the lettering is a transfer included with the kit 👍 So just use some microset and microsol and you’re sorted ua-cam.com/video/MgPJbxKjXak/v-deo.html
I really enjoy your tutorials, but I still get tidemarks whenever i use the acrylic washes, even when they are light. I've been using glaze medium or flow improver
Thank you I certainly can, I actually have a brush set to accompany my guide videos to make it easy for people to paint along store.artis-opus.com/products/brushstroke-custom-brush-set-5-brush-custom-deluxe
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesamazing ! I’m looking at doing some Adepta Sororitas up with this scheme color but all my other tries have been somewhat in vein and I see everybody else using ushabti for those bone warm white cream ivory type colors I’m looking for But that just doesn’t quite resonate with me . Thanks for this !! 🙏
Great question. Sorry, no I’ve not made a video specifically on that area, but it would be a good one to make. Briefly though, my general approach / rule is start with base coat colours and paint then from inside out, or bottom up. Easier to explain with an example: Think of how you get dressed, you start with underwear, then add layers like T-shirt and jeans, then maybe a jumper and coat and then shoes and glove and hat. It’s the same with painting, start with things which have no details on top. Usually this will be things like skin, then clothes, etc etc The logic being it’s easier to paint on top of inner details than trying to paint around things on top. With the base colours done, I then apply washes or shades. Then I add layers and finish with highlights There are different processes though where you can use speed paints or contrast paints to achieve similar effects quicker. But I still think it’s good to think about what is on top of what and paint like you get dressed Hope that makes sense and is some help.
@@enochdarkk7871 sorry if it wasn’t too clear. I wrote it in a rush, but hopefully it made sense. It’s a great idea for a video though. Thanks for watching my videos, really helps support the channel 👍
This is gonna sound quite gruesome so i do apologize, but i think i will be using my spare terminator and this colour scheme to build a bisected corpse on the base of khârn the betrayer, i got a plan for a sort of diorama. Any tips for adding some weathering to the armour?
🤣 haha all good man. 40k is not all bunnies and flowers. Battle damage I use these techniques ua-cam.com/video/WP1A8eIaYXM/v-deo.htmlsi=LwYD4dQl7LZdtpYG And colour wise for this armour, I’d say your Rhinox and bare metal will work really well. Be sure to edge highlight your scratches and bigger chips to give them some depth and contrast. Other than that, weathering powders to dirty it up and tie it into the base would be a good call. Feel free to message me if you have questions as you go 👍
Worth the wait! Just a quick question on the skeleton horde wash - when you applied it to the larger flat panels like shins and shoulder pads was it still to cover the whole area then use a clean brush to remove excess or did you sort of glaze it in certain areas?
great question so, I tried to apply it to all areas the same. I wanted to get it to settle in the grooves and recesses and only lightly tint the other surfaces. So the example of me applying it to the top of the terminator armour was a good example of that. Because the surface was flat the thin wash ran over it easily, and if you look I had the mini at an angle too, to make gravity lend a hand too. I included the example on the boot because there will be times when the silly wash just wont behave and it wants to pool in the wrong place no matter what you do. In those cases, just wipe your brush on your sleeve or some towel (if youre posh :P ) and then wick the excess away. So, the answer is glaze the surfaces and shade the recesses but be ready to wick excess if you need to Hope that makes sense?
yes absolutely. By keeping everything super thin it means you can tidy up with more layers without clogging details etc. you'll be surprised how little clean up there is to do when you thin the skeleton horde down to that ratio be sure and let me know how you get on
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides I did attempt a model earlier in the week using vampire fang (TTC) instead of wraithbone (GW) but I feel like it came out too yellow once I did the skeleton horde. But sometime this week I’ll give this a go
I don’t do anything specifically to prevent dust but I do often use an old hairdryer to help speed up the drying process, which I guess stops dust settling on my minis as they’re drying. Word of warning, if you do go the hairdryer route. You shouldn’t try and speed up washes or contrast paints. They don’t react well to that. And you should only start drying your paints when they are no longer liquid on the surface. So, you know that point where they’re glisteningly wet still but blowing air on it won’t disturb it or make it wrinkle up? Also, just use very low heat
excellent video, but I'm confused how you don't know that you can use GW spray as a primer. You use GW paints all the time, seems like you would know this. that being said, I love love love your style of editing and explanation.
I do use GW paints all the time, that’s true. But I can’t remember the last time I used a GW rattle can before this Pretty sure they only had black and white then. Just didn’t know if the colours were also primers or just the black and white. If you’re confirming all GW’s sprays are primers, then that awesome. Thank you And thank you for watching, really appreciate it 👍
I do use my AO brushes for metallics but you need to make sure to fully clean them with brush soap after each session. I have a separate soap for metallics and none metallics just to prevent cross contamination. Now, I’m not saying metallics have no effect on your brush’s life. It will shorten it I’m afraid. As the tiny parts of metal are abrasive on the natural hairs. But cleaning fully will minimise as much as possible. I’m very lucky and I’m able to have a set for just metallics and a set for non metallics but I get not everyone can do that. An AO brush used for metallics will still last me 18months to 2 years of use compared to my others which tend to last another 5-8 months and hard use. Hope that helps and thanks for supporting my channel by getting my brush set 👍
Thank you, it's great to hear you're enjoying the channel. If you can, please share my videos, as it helps the channel grow by feeding the UA-cam algorithm
Do you use an airbrush? If so, is it possible for you to create some tutorials on how to use it? Your tutorials are some of the best when it comes to painting and I would really appreciate videos on how to use an airbrush, however, I haven't seen airbrush in your videos
I do use an airbrush yes. I havent used it in any of my paint guides because I know people can find it really annoying if they find a tutorial and it uses an airbrush and they havent got one. So, I've tried to make videos which show you can get super smooth paint jobs by hand. However, you're not the first to ask if I could do some airbrush guides too, so there must be an audience for them too. Perhaps I could start a little series of airbrush guides and see how they go? Certainly a "getting started with your first airbrush" video would probably be very helpful for people not knowing where to start. Leave it with me
might also force me to up my airbrush game too... cos I'm pretty lazy and just do the basics myself at the moment thanks for following my vids, I appreciate it
25 different colors for one type of figure is a lot for someone on a bit of a budget 😅Do you have some recommendations on how I can achieve something similar with less? Love the result btw!
You can achieve a similar look with contrast paints and metallics, and you'll only need 7 paints, a medium, and a primer. Skeleton Horde, Dark Angels Green, Blood Angels Red, Flesh Tearer Red, Sigvald Burgundy, Leabelcher, and Retributor Armor. Youll want a satin primer, because contrast paints work much better with those and are less splotchy. You can use Wraithbone, or white if you want an inexpensive primer. If you do the wraithbone primer you can just follow his skeleton horde steps to wash the armor, if you use white you may need a stronger mix, or an extra coat. Either way startign thin is best because then you can just apply the coats until you get the color you want. As for the rest of the tutorial follow each step and subsitute as follows: Regalia: Blood Angels Red; Leather: Flesh Tearer Red; Metals: Leadbelcher for silver, Retributor Armor for Gold; Ropes: Sigvald Burgundy; Cloth: Dark Angles Green. The benefit of the white primer is the highlighting properties of the contrast paints will be more pronounced, because you wont be using any of the washes or highlighting techniques in this tutorial. Basic contrast rules is start thin with medium, and push the pain into the rescesses, so they will darker and the raised areas will be lighter, giving you highlights and shades without the need for lighter paint, or washes. this will give you a great looking model on a budget, and as you expand your paint inventory you can always come back and add highlights and shades later.
No I'm not gonna get some Dark Angels models. No I'm not gonna get them. No- ... fine. After I get my 1000 points Ravenguard done, I'll get them... Sadly I haven't even completed my first RG model yet (following most of your tutorial for the colours btw and discovered the amazingly matt scalecolors through your RG tutorial as well) and till I have the 1000 points full, or even just painted the whole Ravensrike Battle Force it'll be a while... and I do have an embarrasingly high pile of shame for roughly only a year since I discovered GW 😅 Btw, how do you varnish your scalecolor paints to keep them so matt? I tried the "Anti Shine Matt Varnish" from Army painter but it makes it so shiny that it's even worse than some of their washes
Haha the temptation is real 👍 Varnish wise, I use Testors Dullcote spray, but I believe it’s been discontinued because it kills you or something. So I have been looking for an alternative and so far the best I’ve found is AK’s ultra matte through an airbrush
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thanks for the answer! I was already planning on testing the AK Ultra matt varnish so it‘s nice to hear that it seems to do its job well. Though I‘ll be applying it with a brush since I don’t have an airbrush currently and unfortunately won’t have one for another while, so I‘ll have to see how that goes
I don’t have a video on the full White Scar scheme but this is my recipe for painting white armour, which is how I would do White Scars ua-cam.com/video/APwVOAzwUqg/v-deo.html I hope it helps 👍
I’d love to hear what you thought of this video, was it helpful, enjoyable, easy to follow? Please let me know your thoughts by dropping a comment below 👇
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Wraithbone spray on bare plastic works great, for those wondering.
Perfect, thanks for confirming 👍
All the GW rattle cans are meant to be used as primer too
A Deathwing Knight ended up being GW's Free Miniature of the Month of April 2024! Looking for ways to paint the one I picked up led me to this video. :)
That’s what you call perfect timing then, as I’ve only just posted the video.
Hope you find it useful 👍
Are you allowed to pick up one fore free every month???
Note on primer- I use the wraithbone rattle can a lot. I find for my best results I start with Chaos Black, wait for it to dry. Zandri Dust next for a lighter brown colour, and then use the wraithbone as final zenith highlighting. This leaves all the darker colours looking like shadows without being totally blackened
Out of all the tutorials I've seen for this, this is by far my favorite.
Thank you, really appreciate it 🙏
This is something I can do! I like this because it's mostly : put paint here.
There are no overly complex techniques here. It really is just thin your paint, go slow when doing fine parts, take your time, paint to brush to model. Thanks!!
Perfect!
Thats exactly how I want my guides to make people feel, like it’s something they can do and painting doesn’t have to be complicated. 🙂
Just recently got back into the hobby again. Bought a box of Deathwing Knights around two weeks ago, as a painting project, just because they looked so cool to me, even though I dont own any other Space Marines. On the same day I saw your community post regarding this video and just couldnt wait for it to be released. Now its finally here and it is just great. Your comtent really helped me getting back into painting, as well as becoming better at it and I just wanted to let you know, how much I appreciate you and your videos!
Thank you, that’s so kind of you to take the time to comment.
It’s really nice to hear my videos genuinely help people enjoy the hobby I love. It makes the hours of editing worth it 🙏
I am in awe at the control of your brush and how clean everything looks.
Thank you 🙏
It’s lush that you are mentioning / supporting Duncan with Two Thin Coats.xx
TTC paints seem to suit my clean and smooth painting style for sure.
I get excited when I find a paint which really clicks with me and right now TTC are really clicking :)
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides
It’s certainly clean and smooth with this vid, this guy looks amazing!
I got a few bottles of TTC personally and promptly replaced all my Vallejo and citadel I had 😂
as lush as the finish on those paint, hello!!
very grateful to find a store carry it here in socal!
Love this tutorial - great instructions, and the end result looks super clean with great colors but most importantly also seems very achievable with a little patience and attention to detail! I love how your videos showcase what one can achieve with really solid fundamentals. I’ll be painting up my own deathwing box soon and will be playing this video again in the background as I do so
Always a good day when Brushstroke uploads, fantastic piece and editing/explanation as always
Haha thank you
I try really hard to make my videos as good as I can. So, it’s always nice to hear people look forward to them being released.
Thanks for the support 👍
Super excited! Definitely plan on using these techniques to paint one of my gundam models!
Thanks for all your work!
Fantastic!
Please let me know how you get on, because I’ve been thinking about doing a Gundam paint video, as they look pretty cool and fun to paint
Awesome painting guide Brushstroke, i'm looking forward to painting mine up at some point!
Thank you
I look forward to hearing how you get on with it 👍
The GW sprays can be used as primers, I used the wraithbone as my primer straight on the bare plastic
Great result with achievable methods. Thank you!
Oh yes, let's go! Brushstroke delivers again. I will steal some stuff for my Chaos Warriors scheme from this
Some great recipes here. I'm actually working multiple Deathwing terminators as part of a commission and I definitely will be using some of these color recipes on them. Thanks for the tips as always 👍
Thank you sir 👍
Oooooof another amazing video smashed out the park by my fav painter.
As someone who has painted 20 termies over the last few weeks, it's really refreshing to see how different your DW style is to mine.
Starting my DWK's today and will be following your guide this time round.
Much love
Thank you
I’m proud and humbled to be your fave painter.
Please do let me know how your DWKs turn out 👍
Fantastic tutorial. Just waiting to order the paints bundle in your link when they are back in stock.
that's a really good, solid cream-color!
Thank you
Just don’t be fooled and start thinking it’s white chocolate
Cos they don’t taste nice 🤣
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesXD XD
Love the video once again. Since I have been loving the two thin coats range, would you have any recommendations on switching up the Scale75 paints for respective two thin coats paints for the regular green armour of the Dank Angels ?
Thanks man
Regarding my regular Dark Angel green armour recipe, I’m sticking with my Scale75 version as I think the matte green looks really menacing on them and having a different but still complementary recipe for the Deathwing robes sets them apart just enough to keep them interesting and still part of the same army.
Of course, I realise not everyone has the luxury of having all those paints so if I had to pick one range right now, I’d go with the TTCs
That was inspirational James, gratz on a job well done.
Thanks John 🙏
I made an attempt to airbrush the base coat on my Deathwing using Wraithbone and it did not go well to put it mildly. I switched to VMA Aged White which is almost a dead match for Wraithbone and had a much easier time of it. If I ever expand my Deathwing (and it's summer or fall) I will try the spray can though,
Oh, sorry to hear that. If the VMA works better for you then go with that man. No point making things harder for yourself.
Go with what works for you 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesI’ve had tons of success with other GW paints in the airbrush, but anything in that white/offwhite range just causes so many problems. For pure whites like on a zenithal I use the PA Bold Titanium White and that stuff is magic.
i have to start painting again ... loving your videos :-D thx !!
Yes
Yes you do!
Paint!
What are you waiting for?
It’s the most relaxing thing in the world 👍
Love this recipe! Been holding off on painting my deathwing assault box to see what you came up with.
Thank you.
I tried a few different recipes and this is the one I liked the result of best and it just so happened to be the most compatible with batch painting multiple minis too.
So, win win 👍
Please let me know how you get on with following the recipe
That guy is butter smooth!
I’ve really fallen in love with Scale75 their paints after some time getting used to how they behave. Their metallics are also really cool.
I wanna try Dark Star paints, but nobody near me seems to stock them.
where you based man? I'll see what I can do
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides The Netherlands. A lot of stuff is a little iffy to get here. Need to import stuff more than I’d like. Doubly so since I’ll always prefer to just walk into a store and see the bottle for myself first.
@mirage809
drop me an email
brushstroke.painter@gmail.com
I absolutely love the smoothness of the Wraith bone and the application process. Very clean, no pulling, running or coffee stains etc. I do however feel like it could use some more contrast in the form of recess shading. Maybe some light tone, or XV-88 thinned or Skeleton Horde. As is, it looks like a Joy Toy Deathwing figure. Not a bad thing at all just more toy like.
Thanks man
I totally get what you mean.
The pics are losing a little of the shading which you can see in person. I think the lighting has flooded it away.
Using a stronger recess colour is always an option if you’d prefer a stronger definition too though. 👍
Making things individual and personal to you is the best thing about this hobby, so go for it 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thank you for the advice and again I can’t stress enough how smooth that Wraithbone with Skeleton Horde looks. Looks great.
Nice, i follow your green DA guide for my army.
Ah, so you’re already a connoisseur 😉
Hope you find this recipe useful too 👍
The GW sprays are also intended to be used as primers. They dont bond to the plastic like a automotive primer, or form a film like (Vallejo's) polyurethane primers, but they get the job done.
You will want to do a layer of the potted paint after though, because the finish of the spray is different. Or sometimes the hue as well. (Mechanicus Standard Grey spray is a lot bluer than the potted one.)
They don’t cure like a true plastic primer then? That is a shame
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides they're still used as primers by GW's own painters and a large part of the painting community.
@@BlackHoleEye I find it doesn't work well. I'm a novice painter, however. I'm going follow BPS and give it a dedicated white primer first.
@@sbeaber well, it depends on how you handle it as well. If you hold the model directly as you paint, it can rub off on the corners. Especially if you don't give it enough time to dry. I recommend a painting handle and gloves, at least on the hand holding the handle. The gloves are soft, and not covered in oils and such, like your skin. That can rub off the paint.
Saw the pics from the DA redit group. Been looking forward to this video.
Nice one!
Sorry for the delay.
Hope it was worth the wait?
Easy to follow video that I can appreciate
Thanks for watching
Great to hear the format is easy to follow
Awesome painting tutorial but what paints did you use for the head and shield, mutch appreciated 👌
😊😊😊 looks great as always and it's amazing 😊
Thank you
Glad you liked it
They look amazing. Theyll be soon :D
Thank you 🙏
Hey man, love your vids. Surprised you dont have way more subscribers honestly. Wanted to asked , do you have a favorite line for metallic paints. I only have citadel and Vallejo paints right now. They are very inconsistent in their coverage though. I really want to try 2 thin coats line of paints. I hear good things. Also dark angels are my army so this is great!
Nothing touches Vallejo metallic line (the ones in the larger bottles, not the basic line), but I've also heard the speed paint metallics are very very good.
Vallejo Liquid Metal paints are also some really great metalics
I agree! I love Chrome from Vallejo's liquid metal range. It is just insanely good to highlight any metallic with
Some fine work you did there. I am curious what your hobby room looks like. Are you going to make a room tour style video at some point?
Oh, I’ve never really thought about that.
That’s something you’d be interested in seeing then? A little tour of my hobby studio?
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides yes! I only got a few peeks of the background and it looks like your space is as organized as your painting :D
Brilliant as ever.
Quick question. On your dark angel video, you used black forest green from scale 75. Would you still use that as a base or do you prefer the two thin coats as in this video?
Thanks
the scale75 black forest I really liked for the armour of Dark Angels because it has the cool ultra matte finish. I didnt think that really worked for material of the robes though, so I opted for the more statin finish two thin coats.
It just offers that bit of difference between the units when you have them side by side.
Of course, I dont expect people togo out and buy loads of paints just for robes etc, so the black forest green recipe will work just fine too :)
Awesome and easy too follow guide thankyou 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Bonjour.Merci pour cette vidéo. Le pouvoir couvrant des peintures que vous utilisez a l'air d'etre excellent, j'utilise habituellement des pzeintures et pigments vallejo, mig et tamiya. je suis curieux de la tester , perso , maquettiste sur du blindé au 1/35 depuis 30 ans et aujourd'hui j'aimerais me lancer dans la figurine WH40 K, la seul chose qui me freine c'est ma vue, car c'est une echelle petite qui demande bcp de precision pour de beau rendu. Encore merci pour votre travail
2 questions:
How long it usually takes you to complete model from start to finish?
How are you tackling the bigger paint jobs, like squads or armies? I see that each time is a single model and I can imagine painting, let's say, 5 deathwing knights to the same standard as in the video might take a while? Do you "take shortcuts" or do each model start to finish each time like you do in the vids?
Both great questions
So, the time to paint an individual mini would be about 3-5 hours but there’s drying time in that.
Now, where it gets interesting is when you do this as a batch paint.
I’ve designed this recipe to work for batch painting, so as one’s drying you can move on to another and so on.
I find it works best with 3-5 minis of this size.
So, i could do a box of these guys over a weekend to this level.
Just not filming it, as that triples the time but don’t get me started on that 🤣
Love some help with scale 75 paints. I’m using abysal blue and after it dries it has this shinny patchy look. I thin them 1:1 in a way if 1:2 paint water and it still has this look. Why does the paint look like this? Too much water, not enough ? Love the help much love
❤ very informative thank you!
Thanks for watching
Glad you found it useful
Awesome video, probably the main reason i decided to get a box of deathwing myself. Any chance you’ll make video how you did the lettering on the shield?
Awesome, glad it inspired you to get some.
And some even better news for you, the lettering is a transfer included with the kit 👍
So just use some microset and microsol and you’re sorted
ua-cam.com/video/MgPJbxKjXak/v-deo.html
I really enjoy your tutorials, but I still get tidemarks whenever i use the acrylic washes, even when they are light.
I've been using glaze medium or flow improver
Amazing! Can you provide the brand/where to buy the brushes you use? Thank you!
Thank you
I certainly can, I actually have a brush set to accompany my guide videos to make it easy for people to paint along
store.artis-opus.com/products/brushstroke-custom-brush-set-5-brush-custom-deluxe
Can you make a skaven paintng video in future with the new models?
The new skaventide minis you mean?
Yeah, they look badass don’t they?
If I can get some, then yes, I’ll try and make a video for them 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thank you!
It would be amazing.
Clunk! (that was my jaw hitting the floor). Awesome job.
Thanks man. It was a lot of fun to paint and I'm glad you enjoyed the video
Been looking for a way to organize my paints and that plastic paint organizer seems neat. Anyone know which brand he uses or where to buy one similar?
no problem
they are these
amzn.to/4aCNRc2
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesthank you so much for replying! Love your videos, keep up the great work!
Can you please make a painting guide on how to paint Ork Boyz?
Would the wraithbone work as well if I just used it thru airbrush ? My lgs doesn’t have any of the spray cans
Yes, absolutely
Works lovely through an airbrush
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesamazing ! I’m looking at doing some Adepta Sororitas up with this scheme color but all my other tries have been somewhat in vein and I see everybody else using ushabti for those bone warm white cream ivory type colors I’m looking for
But that just doesn’t quite resonate with me . Thanks for this !! 🙏
Question is there a tutorial on what to start painting 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. when it comes to the figures? Is there a special rule for this?
Great question.
Sorry, no I’ve not made a video specifically on that area, but it would be a good one to make.
Briefly though, my general approach / rule is start with base coat colours and paint then from inside out, or bottom up.
Easier to explain with an example:
Think of how you get dressed, you start with underwear, then add layers like T-shirt and jeans, then maybe a jumper and coat and then shoes and glove and hat.
It’s the same with painting, start with things which have no details on top.
Usually this will be things like skin, then clothes, etc etc
The logic being it’s easier to paint on top of inner details than trying to paint around things on top.
With the base colours done, I then apply washes or shades. Then I add layers and finish with highlights
There are different processes though where you can use speed paints or contrast paints to achieve similar effects quicker.
But I still think it’s good to think about what is on top of what and paint like you get dressed
Hope that makes sense and is some help.
Great in-depth answer and thank you for even taking the time to reply. You are the best.
@@enochdarkk7871 sorry if it wasn’t too clear. I wrote it in a rush, but hopefully it made sense. It’s a great idea for a video though.
Thanks for watching my videos, really helps support the channel 👍
No problem, glad I can help. Thanks for doing what you do. I got the gist of what you were saying. Cant wait for the video!
This is gonna sound quite gruesome so i do apologize, but i think i will be using my spare terminator and this colour scheme to build a bisected corpse on the base of khârn the betrayer, i got a plan for a sort of diorama. Any tips for adding some weathering to the armour?
🤣 haha all good man. 40k is not all bunnies and flowers.
Battle damage I use these techniques
ua-cam.com/video/WP1A8eIaYXM/v-deo.htmlsi=LwYD4dQl7LZdtpYG
And colour wise for this armour, I’d say your Rhinox and bare metal will work really well. Be sure to edge highlight your scratches and bigger chips to give them some depth and contrast.
Other than that, weathering powders to dirty it up and tie it into the base would be a good call.
Feel free to message me if you have questions as you go 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Sorry for the late reply, thanks a bunch for the tips! Have a great day.
Worth the wait!
Just a quick question on the skeleton horde wash - when you applied it to the larger flat panels like shins and shoulder pads was it still to cover the whole area then use a clean brush to remove excess or did you sort of glaze it in certain areas?
great question
so, I tried to apply it to all areas the same. I wanted to get it to settle in the grooves and recesses and only lightly tint the other surfaces. So the example of me applying it to the top of the terminator armour was a good example of that.
Because the surface was flat the thin wash ran over it easily, and if you look I had the mini at an angle too, to make gravity lend a hand too.
I included the example on the boot because there will be times when the silly wash just wont behave and it wants to pool in the wrong place no matter what you do. In those cases, just wipe your brush on your sleeve or some towel (if youre posh :P ) and then wick the excess away.
So, the answer is glaze the surfaces and shade the recesses
but be ready to wick excess if you need to
Hope that makes sense?
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides yep that makes sense, I guess if there are any issues with the wash I could always reglaze wraithbone over tidemarks etc
yes absolutely. By keeping everything super thin it means you can tidy up with more layers without clogging details etc.
you'll be surprised how little clean up there is to do when you thin the skeleton horde down to that ratio
be sure and let me know how you get on
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides I did attempt a model earlier in the week using vampire fang (TTC) instead of wraithbone (GW) but I feel like it came out too yellow once I did the skeleton horde. But sometime this week I’ll give this a go
Cool, yeah give it a go and be sure to thin the skeleton horde down to 1:2, as it can be too overpowering otherwise
How do you the head especially the eyes?
How do you manage to avoid getting any dust or debris on the model while painting? Your models always look incredibly smooth
I don’t do anything specifically to prevent dust but I do often use an old hairdryer to help speed up the drying process, which I guess stops dust settling on my minis as they’re drying.
Word of warning, if you do go the hairdryer route. You shouldn’t try and speed up washes or contrast paints. They don’t react well to that.
And you should only start drying your paints when they are no longer liquid on the surface. So, you know that point where they’re glisteningly wet still but blowing air on it won’t disturb it or make it wrinkle up?
Also, just use very low heat
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thank you, Ill give it a try, also going to try using blue tac prior to priming like you showed previously
excellent video, but I'm confused how you don't know that you can use GW spray as a primer. You use GW paints all the time, seems like you would know this.
that being said, I love love love your style of editing and explanation.
I do use GW paints all the time, that’s true.
But I can’t remember the last time I used a GW rattle can before this
Pretty sure they only had black and white then.
Just didn’t know if the colours were also primers or just the black and white.
If you’re confirming all GW’s sprays are primers, then that awesome. Thank you
And thank you for watching, really appreciate it 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides okay, gotcha. Yeah they all work great as primers. Spray away! Huge fan, keep it up!
Can you do a sisters of battle please?
Which order would you like to see a video on?
Do you use your artis opus brushes for applying metallics, I have you brush set and am terrified of damaging them by using metallics?
I do use my AO brushes for metallics but you need to make sure to fully clean them with brush soap after each session.
I have a separate soap for metallics and none metallics just to prevent cross contamination.
Now, I’m not saying metallics have no effect on your brush’s life. It will shorten it I’m afraid. As the tiny parts of metal are abrasive on the natural hairs. But cleaning fully will minimise as much as possible.
I’m very lucky and I’m able to have a set for just metallics and a set for non metallics but I get not everyone can do that.
An AO brush used for metallics will still last me 18months to 2 years of use compared to my others which tend to last another 5-8 months and hard use.
Hope that helps and thanks for supporting my channel by getting my brush set 👍
Thanks for the tip dude, also thanks for doing this guide it’s amazing, the production quality of these is on another level completely, Awesome job!
Thank you, it's great to hear you're enjoying the channel.
If you can, please share my videos, as it helps the channel grow by feeding the UA-cam algorithm
Hello, sorry what is the pourcentage of dilution for skeleton horde and médium please ?
Percentage would be 33.3% skeleton horde to 66.6% medium.
Or easier to just do 1 drop of Skeleton horde to 2 drops of medium
Hope that helps
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesthank you
Do you use an airbrush? If so, is it possible for you to create some tutorials on how to use it? Your tutorials are some of the best when it comes to painting and I would really appreciate videos on how to use an airbrush, however, I haven't seen airbrush in your videos
I do use an airbrush yes. I havent used it in any of my paint guides because I know people can find it really annoying if they find a tutorial and it uses an airbrush and they havent got one. So, I've tried to make videos which show you can get super smooth paint jobs by hand.
However, you're not the first to ask if I could do some airbrush guides too, so there must be an audience for them too.
Perhaps I could start a little series of airbrush guides and see how they go?
Certainly a "getting started with your first airbrush" video would probably be very helpful for people not knowing where to start.
Leave it with me
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides great :D Can't wait to see your airbrush guides. Your idea for the first guide is great, it will definitely be helpful.
might also force me to up my airbrush game too... cos I'm pretty lazy and just do the basics myself at the moment
thanks for following my vids, I appreciate it
Nice guide! a question popped in my mind tho....is the background real, or fake? XD
haha yeah the background is my paint desk
instagram.com/p/BzMSNFgHUlO
25 different colors for one type of figure is a lot for someone on a bit of a budget 😅Do you have some recommendations on how I can achieve something similar with less? Love the result btw!
You can achieve a similar look with contrast paints and metallics, and you'll only need 7 paints, a medium, and a primer. Skeleton Horde, Dark Angels Green, Blood Angels Red, Flesh Tearer Red, Sigvald Burgundy, Leabelcher, and Retributor Armor. Youll want a satin primer, because contrast paints work much better with those and are less splotchy. You can use Wraithbone, or white if you want an inexpensive primer.
If you do the wraithbone primer you can just follow his skeleton horde steps to wash the armor, if you use white you may need a stronger mix, or an extra coat. Either way startign thin is best because then you can just apply the coats until you get the color you want.
As for the rest of the tutorial follow each step and subsitute as follows: Regalia: Blood Angels Red; Leather: Flesh Tearer Red; Metals: Leadbelcher for silver, Retributor Armor for Gold; Ropes: Sigvald Burgundy; Cloth: Dark Angles Green.
The benefit of the white primer is the highlighting properties of the contrast paints will be more pronounced, because you wont be using any of the washes or highlighting techniques in this tutorial.
Basic contrast rules is start thin with medium, and push the pain into the rescesses, so they will darker and the raised areas will be lighter, giving you highlights and shades without the need for lighter paint, or washes.
this will give you a great looking model on a budget, and as you expand your paint inventory you can always come back and add highlights and shades later.
@@mxviii what a great suggestion! I'll definitely try this. Ofc I expect to have to practice this a bit on some basic models first. Thank you!! 🏅
Almost the EXACT same process as me. Your photo looks maybe yellower than It actually Is? I dont know why. Probably photo settings
The Paint Bundle isn't on the website for this model?
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll check with Element what the problem is. 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thanks if you can let me know when back up that would be great
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides any joy?
@@DrewLewis-pz5hs yes, they’ve been in touch and have said it should be available in the next day or so. 👍
hey man
Element have just got back to me to say the paint bundle is available now
bit.ly/3JFW9oV
thanks
Cool 🖌
No I'm not gonna get some Dark Angels models. No I'm not gonna get them. No- ... fine. After I get my 1000 points Ravenguard done, I'll get them...
Sadly I haven't even completed my first RG model yet (following most of your tutorial for the colours btw and discovered the amazingly matt scalecolors through your RG tutorial as well) and till I have the 1000 points full, or even just painted the whole Ravensrike Battle Force it'll be a while... and I do have an embarrasingly high pile of shame for roughly only a year since I discovered GW 😅
Btw, how do you varnish your scalecolor paints to keep them so matt? I tried the "Anti Shine Matt Varnish" from Army painter but it makes it so shiny that it's even worse than some of their washes
I tried matt varnish from winsor and newton. Works fine for me
Haha the temptation is real 👍
Varnish wise, I use Testors Dullcote spray, but I believe it’s been discontinued because it kills you or something.
So I have been looking for an alternative and so far the best I’ve found is AK’s ultra matte through an airbrush
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thanks for the answer! I was already planning on testing the AK Ultra matt varnish so it‘s nice to hear that it seems to do its job well. Though I‘ll be applying it with a brush since I don’t have an airbrush currently and unfortunately won’t have one for another while, so I‘ll have to see how that goes
Sir how to paint white scar? I live too much your art
But im soo hard painting white scar skim
I don’t have a video on the full White Scar scheme but this is my recipe for painting white armour, which is how I would do White Scars
ua-cam.com/video/APwVOAzwUqg/v-deo.html
I hope it helps 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thank you so much i love your art soo much
Liked + subbed
Legend!
This cream miniature is making me wanna bite it.
Haha yeah, like a smooth white chocolate 🤍
So many highlights and washes. 7?