note when using different wheels/spacers the hub shoulder has to match wheel center hole/spacer dupilicated shoulder, if not the studs are not supported and run-out. shock load will snap studs off. if see a wheel with broken stud, is the proof that wheel is moving on hub due to the space between wheel hole to hub. Be Safe
Afaik, studs merely ‘clamp’ the wheel to the hub when properly torqued. It is the resultant friction between flat wheel surface and flat hub surface that supports the loads. Studs are simply in tension ( no bending nor shear loads). The above modification will work fine. Hub-centric spacers are merely for convenience during wheel installation.
I agree, ideally the speed should be lowered. This is not possible with the drill i currently use, but a new one is on my shopping list. Often i think the machining works just as good without alcohol, but i use red spirit sometimes for aluminum.
Now this is exactly what I am considering for my alloys, as lugs are too wide for my vehicle, and as I do not have a lathe, is this possible with a drill, and how did you measure the lug spacing? I know about measuring from outside edge from 1st lug, gap of 1 and then to the middle of the opposite lug, and with an 2003 Audi I would imagine the lug measurements would be metric. Any help appreciated. Cheers
Wheels are supposed to center on the center lug, not at the bolts. I'd say it is possible to do without machines if done thoroughly and the wheels center properly on the hub. On my lathe i have an indexing attachment to do the spacing but this could be done mathematically instead. Hard to explain in text, easy to google. Good luck!
Well, steelies can't be redrilled the same way so as i see it you have two options. 1. Get spacers that change the hole pattern on the car. 2. Exchange the center of the rims by cutting out the old and welding a new one in place. Good luck!
im interested in converting a set of vintage magnesium wheels with a 5 x 4 3/4 pattern to a 5 x 4.5 how would I do so without cutting the wheel to pieces or using spacers?
Well, i´d say that depends on the use. I know there are excentric offset bolts and i think they would work if the difference is only 1/4". However i would not use them in racing. But for an ice cream buying car, sure!
Old high magnesium wheels make good display pieces. The magnesium absorbs moisture and internally corrodes the wheels and they become both very porous and brittle. Shelf life of around 5 years. As for redrilling if the wheel is not scalloped between the studs on the wheel flange it will be the same as he has done. Though drill them for shank nuts. Any remotely competent machine shop should be able to do it. Big lather or rotary table on a milling machine.
If you look up a picture of a Mickey Thompson E.T. DRAG wheel , it has ford and chevy bolt patterns , which is 10 holes , they are SFI approved and people run them with 3000 hp . Cragar Supertrick racing wheels had 10 lug holes on 80% of their wheels and it is not an issue . I dont think this 4 lug wheel will take enough load to worry about , unless you put them on a dump truck .
Absolutely! I´d say the best way would be to fill the holes by TIG welding them and then machine the surface. But you could of course turn some "plugs" on the lathe and just press them into the holes.
That is quite dodgey. Wheel nuts that do not seat properly come loose. And the tapered seats should be well down in the centre. You would have been better off drilling the holes for shank nuts, as was the other bolt pattern. And then you do not need longer studs either.
Yea, i can absolutely see your point there. Even if this worked out well, it’s not a ”failsafe” way. If i were to do this now, shank nuts would absolutely be an option.
I love this type of lathe, I have one of them in the same original condition, it has not been used yet, and I keep it
Wow! Unused? You have to make a video then so we can see it. Cheers!
@@LittleshopofFredrik I will do later because it needs washing and cleaning because it has been parked for a long time
note when using different wheels/spacers
the hub shoulder has to match wheel center hole/spacer dupilicated shoulder, if not the studs are not supported and run-out. shock load will snap studs off. if see a wheel with broken stud, is the proof that wheel is moving on hub due to the space between wheel hole to hub. Be Safe
With you 100% on that. Only on this particular car the wheel hub does not have a shoulder and it seems to work, even though it would be preferable.
Afaik, studs merely ‘clamp’ the wheel to the hub when properly torqued. It is the resultant friction between flat wheel surface and flat hub surface that supports the loads. Studs are simply in tension ( no bending nor shear loads). The above modification will work fine. Hub-centric spacers are merely for convenience during wheel installation.
great indexing idea, and the proof... 10/10
oneave8tor Thanks! Works like a charm!
I like the drill motor holder.
WD-40 or kerosene makes an excellent lubricant for machining aluminum.
I´m glad you like it, if you wannna know more about it here´s a link to the video where i make it ua-cam.com/video/pz62OWLB8qw/v-deo.html
Bro I came for the drilling u only show drilling 1 hole,why!!??now my life is not complete..please show the drilling next time..cool video..
Nice job!
Shortribs Longbow Thanks!
You could plug and loctite the old holes , then face them off on your lathe.
I could of course, but i really don´t mind them. I think they make the wheels look more angry :)
Nice, try low machining speed and high feed and alcohol as lubricant when machinig aluminium.
I agree, ideally the speed should be lowered. This is not possible with the drill i currently use, but a new one is on my shopping list. Often i think the machining works just as good without alcohol, but i use red spirit sometimes for aluminum.
Hi good info I wish I could find me four 14x 8 slot wheels with a 4 or 5 inch backspacing with a bolt pattern 4x100
Now this is exactly what I am considering for my alloys, as lugs are too wide for my vehicle, and as I do not have a lathe, is this possible with a drill, and how did you measure the lug spacing? I know about measuring from outside edge from 1st lug, gap of 1 and then to the middle of the opposite lug, and with an 2003 Audi I would imagine the lug measurements would be metric. Any help appreciated. Cheers
Wheels are supposed to center on the center lug, not at the bolts. I'd say it is possible to do without machines if done thoroughly and the wheels center properly on the hub. On my lathe i have an indexing attachment to do the spacing but this could be done mathematically instead. Hard to explain in text, easy to google. Good luck!
How would I drill a set of Steelies that have a 5x115 volt pattern but I need a 5x120.
Well, steelies can't be redrilled the same way so as i see it you have two options. 1. Get spacers that change the hole pattern on the car. 2. Exchange the center of the rims by cutting out the old and welding a new one in place. Good luck!
Little shop of Fredrik thank you, exact same info my grandpa gave me. Think it’s best I sell them off and get a rim set compatible
That seems not terribly unsafe on a 4 lug wheel. Would you be able to do this on a 5 lug?
Sure, same principle.
im interested in converting a set of vintage magnesium wheels with a 5 x 4 3/4 pattern to a 5 x 4.5 how would I do so without cutting the wheel to pieces or using spacers?
Well, i´d say that depends on the use. I know there are excentric offset bolts and i think they would work if the difference is only 1/4". However i would not use them in racing. But for an ice cream buying car, sure!
Wath tool would you recommend to drill to a new bolt pattern
Old high magnesium wheels make good display pieces. The magnesium absorbs moisture and internally corrodes the wheels and they become both very porous and brittle. Shelf life of around 5 years. As for redrilling if the wheel is not scalloped between the studs on the wheel flange it will be the same as he has done. Though drill them for shank nuts. Any remotely competent machine shop should be able to do it. Big lather or rotary table on a milling machine.
i can buy a set of allycat 14x7's but someone has added a new bolt pattern just as you. Is is safe driving around with them?
If you look up a picture of a Mickey Thompson E.T. DRAG wheel , it has ford and chevy bolt patterns , which is 10 holes , they are SFI approved and people run them with 3000 hp . Cragar Supertrick racing wheels had 10 lug holes on 80% of their wheels and it is not an issue . I dont think this 4 lug wheel will take enough load to worry about , unless you put them on a dump truck .
Just bought them but being siting for years ja
Is there a way to fill the other lug holes?
Absolutely! I´d say the best way would be to fill the holes by TIG welding them and then machine the surface. But you could of course turn some "plugs" on the lathe and just press them into the holes.
That is quite dodgey. Wheel nuts that do not seat properly come loose. And the tapered seats should be well down in the centre.
You would have been better off drilling the holes for shank nuts, as was the other bolt pattern. And then you do not need longer studs either.
Yea, i can absolutely see your point there. Even if this worked out well, it’s not a ”failsafe” way. If i were to do this now, shank nuts would absolutely be an option.
I like that! :)
+Magnus Nielsen I bet you do, now give me some wheels to modify! ;)
Hello what size are the wheel you did this Mod to.
Hi! This particular wheel is 13" if i remember correctly
Yo necesito onstalar rines a una crv honda 2015 es de 5 agujero
Wat style lathe that is?
That´s a TOS R5 turret lathe
I want it where u located
Hi! If you mean where i indicated to get them centered, i indicated them in the center hole.
Doo mine bro !!!
now I just need a $10,000 machine to save me $50 from the purchase of a new correct bolt pattern wheel .. THX
Or just go pay some one at an engineering shop with a machine the 50 to them drilled
You’re plais