Putting Better Tires on the Mini 4X4 Rock Crawler Build - Part 11
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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#buggy #rockcrawler
OH MY GOoooooooooooD ! ! ! It took me three sessions to finished watching this. Damn I am a patient man. I didn't smash my computer once. Even though I wanted to. The "WTF were you thinking???" red light went off repeatedly! ! ! Like watching Jethro Bodine turned loose in a fab shop with a comic book.
You'll still have sidewall rubbing when the tire is under a load and bulges out you may have to make a small spacer. but yes the new tires look a lot better.
Make a 1/2 or 1/4 " spacer for the wheels, that should buy you the clearance you are looking for... you may need to adjust your alignment, but it should work.
Hey Chris, maybe some 1-2” spacers would easily solve that tire rub issue without having to perform serious surgery.
Love this project man. Sundays are badass.
2-4 mm would be more than enought without bein that ugly.
@@Broken_AK47 Exactly my though, a maximum of 5mm spacer would be sufficient
Its crazy how just swapping tires can change the look of the entire build
It's absolutly normal!!
That looks waaaay better. It brings everything together and makes it look more scale.
Maybe for the front you could mmake some 1/4" spacers so that the tires don't rub when they flex in bumps or corners.
Chris you need to add some slip yokes to the drive shafts to allow for travel or you will have trouble
A turboed 13b rotary put into the defunct buggy would be a project we could all get behind. 500 h.p buggy would be insane. Small engine and insane potential.
The crawler is lookin good. The tire swap does make it look a lot better. Those front hubs assemblies are supposed to be in an oil bath type setup. There should be a plug on the side of the hub. Being there’s no oil inside lubricating everything might be why that hub isn’t locking up. I had that problem on my old Polaris Trailboss when the seal went bad and all the oil leaked out.
Hey Chris, please bring back the VF1000! That thing is one of your best, and deserves to be made 100%. You rock!
First I gotta say what a pleasure it is to have discovered you and your channel on UA-cam. I've been a backyard fabricator for 40 years and to see such a smart kid with incentive to build some awesome projects. I had to comment on this project specifically because of your design for the front suspension specifically. I too when building my offroad car Frankenbuggy angled up the suspension but I went 15 degrees. I had to laugh when you had your self debate about other builders not doing it. I asked the same thing back when I built Frankenbuggy. Keep up the good work.
I’m kinda impressed how well the drill spins all four tires👌Looks mint
Awesome build. Can't wait to see the first drive. Imagine a set of 80s Toyota 4x4, front and rear difs. under it. Just a thought.
Suzuki sidekick would be a good fit and way more available.
That frame is cool. 👍try some Spacer on the wheel. Who needs a gym when you have tires to changes. The right tools make a world of difference. Good job.
I learned the hard way, braking the bead on atv tires. Deflate but leave the valve core or Schrader valve in the valve stem. It needs the little bit of pressure to keep the side wall from collapsing. Soooooo much easier.
Watch the front tire u had to clearance for. When u sit it on the ground n put it all back together, the tire may squat a bit from the weight. In turn, may cause it to rub again. May have to get/make some 1/2 to 3/4" spacers for the front.
All in all, its comin together nicely!
Little tip with the tires when your installing them stand on one side of the tire pushing the tire Down to where the rim diameter is smaller, makes it easier to get over the rim on the other side
On your bead breaker tool, you need to curve the tip just a little bit. The key is getting the force just as close to the rim as possible, so you have to get under the lip of the rim. Peel the tire down, then stand on the tire and reposition the tool against the rim.
Now you just need a big drill motor, and the build is done! LOL 😛
This is my favorite build. I can't wait until it's done. All the changes you made, especially on the front was worth it. It looks sweet, bro. The tires are the icing on the cake!
I don't know how you keep your cool. I'd lose my shit when it fell off the jack stands or found out the u joints were out of phase. Props to you to keep it together when you make 1 step forward and 3 steps back.
add a bent piece of angle iron to the bead breaker and itll work way easier and smoother. Ive built a few bead breakers in my time lol.
I love the idea of the car engine In the vf1000 build, simple honda k swap, could then be modified in the future, big turbo, be a nice sand buggy. Crawlers turning out super sweet!
Your way of working its amazing, you're blessed son
One of the coolest builds. Still on fence bout that cvt plus gears. But we’ll see
A ratchet strap around the tires will push the sidewalls out, just make sure you release it before final inflation .
The tread pattern and different width makes alot of difference, but 33 inch or 35 inch would make it look killer ...
Those driveshafts look lovely. I hate to see you rebuild them again, however I noticed they do not telescope. And a wheel spacer would get that tire further from the steering knuckle. This bouncers/crawler has been amazing to watch you make. Keep up the awesome work 👏
Yeah I'm wondering at what point they bind.
Maybe the yolkes have travel?
The way that AWD system works is cool. On the Scrambler models they run a one inch taller tire on the front. When it is in AWD, and the rear tires have traction, it pushes the front end, which unlocks the Hillards, and makes turning easier. But when the rear tires start to spin the front tires engage. On the Utility models they run the same size tires, so maybe they changed the gear ratio for the same effect. The later models went to a central hillard which means the hillard is in the differential instead of the hubs.
I am impressed with his ingenuity
Unless I missed something the driveshafts are going to have to be able to collapse and extend with the suspension travel.
I think there's slip jokes on transfer case
It’s a “solid axle” just made out of tubing
I know it’s a solid axle but with all the suspension travel the axle will get closer and further away from the transmission as the suspension moves.
Yes, the two driveshafts from the transfer case to the rear and front axle are not ok because the lenght is fixed. At first serious bump they will snap, and if they will not, something else will snap for sure
Loving the build, you could have done the CV axles similarly to the way you did the drive shafts by boring the ends of the round stock to fit snuggly over the axle shafts. It's a lot easier to keep them true. But being a low speed vehicle, it should be just fine. As far as the CB1000, I think a small car engine with a front wheel drive transaxle mounted in the rear would be awesome. Keep up the awesome builds!!
VF1000,but that's just a nit-pick,other than someone new may wonder where That build is.I think you'r right about a Transaxle.That ran through the off-road track pretty well in my book.Like he said though.there's a stutter in the motor somehow.
A car eng. Swap on the other buggy would be nice to see you do it. I'm in the process of doing that myself in the next couple of months. Keep up the good work.✌
Electric buggy next. Let's go.
A tip from a guy who swaps tires by hand all the time. You can put the chuck of the hose directly onto the valve stem if the core is removed and you will get 3x the air flowing into the tire to set the bead. Also, a ratchet strap around the center of the tread will help set the bead. Love your builds. Wish I had the time to do things like this lol
You’re (very effective) method of taking a machine off of Jack stands is a nice reminder of why I’ll never get under a car just on Jack stands lol.
Now are talking!!! Looking awesome with the bigger wheels 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😃
Your Blue buggy outside, I think you should put a Mazda Miata engine and transmission in it .that way you have reverse and a shifting transmission, & it would look great in that buggy . Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family.
Check the fluid in your front hubs. One of mine on my Polaris Magnum was leaking due to a bad seal and wouldn't operate. Changed the seal and got the fluid to the proper level and that fixed it. Apparently they need enough fluid to operate correctly. You can substitute with plain old ATF, it's way cheaper than Polaris hub fluid.
When putting the tire back on put the wheel on the ground with valve stem side up and put the tire on top of it. We have a similar bead breaking tool but ours has a center piece that sticks up into center of wheel and holds the wheel still.
I was yelling at the tv when you were welding up the driveshafts !!! You have to faze them !!!!!
SO Much Better!
Love The Build and
The Channel! 🇺🇸
I was watching you build the axles and was like, looks like its not aligned right then kept on watching and you realized it on the front! Good catch!!
This thing is gonna be crazy crazy!! It's freaking sick!! You're Fab skills are insane!!
Friend of mine has these tires on his side by side. Very impressive
You can also put a thin spacer ring between the hubs and rims for tire clearance
I would measure the back spacing on the wheels, there may be a front and rear wheel for that application.
Really enjoyed the timelapse of you removing the tires. The music around 13:40 was perfect.
Has many have said quick fix for the front wheel clearance - 10mm (3/8") wheel spacers and longer wheel studs if needed. The longer front drive shaft might need a mid-mounted bearing support to tray and make the shafts similar driven length. Keep up the good work, this thing will be fun (for as long as the running gear holds together..) Translation: axel = prop shaft, spindle = upright. ;-)
The wobble will be hard on all the bearings up front. Don't matter of it's slow or fast fast is of course harder on them.but slow will wear them out just not as fast as high speed. You could put It in the lathe an take most of that wobble out. Them tires look killer on it tho. Nice job
I think the diffs will break before that wobble wears anything out. I hope I'm wrong but i bet it gets a big overhaul early in its life.
Awesome. I’m amazed at your skill, talent, and artistry.
I’m in WNC if you ever need a hand.
Mucho Respecto to you man. You unmounted and remounted 2 sets of wheels and tires BY HAND! Thats beast man. It might be time to get into a more shop like space with some proper tools/equipment. Your designing and fabrication skills are fantastic in your current space, imagine what you could do in a better shop! I look forward to all your future projects either way!
1800 gold wing swap in the nonrunning buggy. They have electric reverse. Really enjoying rock crawler videos.
You need another building/shed to store your great projects!
Learned about u-joint phasing today! Thanks!
Brake rotors make great bases for jack stands on soft surfaces
This thing looks like it’s gon be a excellent rock crawler
Kinda reminds me of a rock bouncer looks good! You should definitely consider a rock bouncer build those things are wild! Lol
The build is looking really good
Any reason you chose not to sleve a tube overtop of the axles shafts? Or bore a 0.9x " hole into the 1.25 rod ends? Seems like a lot easier way to make a straight shaft (like a driveshaft most the strength is in the outer thickness of the shaft)
all good rather B welding
You technique for removing rim is interesting. You removed first bead same way most people do but the inner I've never seen that method. Most people use one bar to push on rim and tire then used a hammer or lrg rubber malet to knock tire off. Your way probably took way longer BUT did get the job done. The only thing I definitely do differently is contact cement or 3m spray glue on rim before setting bead to minimize possible bead leakage. Great job buddy
A friend suggested that I suggest to you an electric buggie. Tesla motors are getting easier and easier to find on the used market. Since there's also after market control modules and given the power of those motors it should make one hell of a thrilling ride. I tried to explain to him that the batteries would be the main issue pertaining to the safety issues and where to mount them. I'll completely understand if you don't want to deal with that. My friend here might be a little disappointed and I'm shure he'll live through it so I think we're good.
Thanks for the update thumbs up
Nothing can get me to stop watching or doing anything else like my weekly RBW vid. 😁 I love seeing the progress on the builds.
Love this build the new tires look great. Can't wait to see it in action
Have you ever considered doing a "Where are they now?" episode?
The tires DO look a lot better!!
You need a slip section in your driveshafts having them solid will make them bind as the axle travels
my lil trick for shaking rattle cans is i take an old caulk gun i cut the everything off besides the housing that hold the tube and i weld it to an old sawzaw blade and use my sawzaw with the housing of the caulk gun i strap it inside of it so it don't fly out and wanna talk about a can shaker brutha that thing sounds like a machine gun... Hope that helps you out it works great for me it really cuts my time in more than half when painting from a can. let us know how that works out for you.
Wheel spacers are good for tight clearances, just throw some 10mm on there and call it a day, if you have long enough wheel studs, you want aprox 7 full rotations of any lug nuts or bolts
Be cool to see a set of those axle lockers on front and back so u can dig the front as well and throw the back around (if u did a rear wheel steer) pretty cool how it is now tho! 😎
a harbor freight manual tire changng machine is cheap, and its actually a surprisingly good tool. ive done tooonss of tires with mine. as long as you have some place sturdy to bolt it down.
I was thinking the same thing. I'm considering getting one of those for my shop as well.
Counting the rotations of the vice grip and doing some math, it seems like your drill spun that up to around 5 mph of wheel speed. Impressive!
If I may just add something to help your safety. When setting the bead (without a tire machine holding the rim in place) always stand the tire up vertical and away from your body and never stand over the top of the tire when setting it. When I was 19 years old I had a full size truck tire blow off the bead when I was trying to set it. I had it laying down on the floor and when it blew off the bead shooting into a low earth orbit it broke both my hands hit a 25-foot ceiling and came down smashing the top of a hood of a Pepsi truck. I just don't want to see you get hurt dude and keep up the great work 🤟
That thing needs a screaming eagle Harley motor in it,and it would be bad ass
The play in the diff is normal and perfectly fine 👌👌 every car I've worked on does it as well as every RC car I've worked on 😂😂
Heard the drill in the opening. First thought.
Chris now has an interested in making life sized rc cars
Heck of a build
The best 38 minutes of content I'll watch all week. This build is awesome and I appreciate the longer video! Can't wait for the mini crotch rocket as well. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Man them wheels changed the look in a good way 😁🤘
Hey Chris what about the flex should'nt the driveshafts have slip yokes?
Better to do a wheel spacer because when you're going down the road or crawling on rocks the tire is going to flex
Curious, how much suspension travel do you have vs how much flexibility in your drive shaft/cv axles? If the rear suspension is swing arm style and you max the travel out will your drive shaft disconnect from your diff/transfer case or snap? Maybe a splined slip joint would be a good idea?
I was wondering the same thing...
When I worked at a tire store on those flimsy four-wheeler tires we would leave a little bit of air in them. That way you could break the sidewalls down easier even with a tire machine
Maybe the Quinton Tarantino of UA-cam. Had me confused at the beginning, brought me through your process, still satisfied at the end. 😶 Waiting for the next.
Using ratchet traps around the tire to squeeze it in might be easier than using that air tank to seat the bead
Glad you caught the phasing. That would have destroyed those tiny diffs for sure.
K SWAP THE WORLD!! PUT A HONDA K20 IN THAT BIATCH!
Sad to see projects sit but keep the good work up get them alllll running lol
23:45 just put a spacer, just that wheel. Alternatively, just cut and weld the part a little bit more inwards (making sure you also reduce the length of the rod by as much as you twisted it inside).
ALSO IMO, you're making a lot more work for yourself in terms of axles when you're splicing them like that. You should cut it short enough to the U fork, chuck it, bore it, and use a new piece of metal to join them. This also forces you to always phase them properly.
You should throw a Mazda 13B engine on the VFR buggy. The engine is small and it would give you plenty of prep!
The tires look really good 👍
the tyre will rub under load and when you deflate for better traction put spacers in for clearance also the rear axle needs to be articulated for a rock crawler
That ELECTRIC drill motor got me thinking🤔
How about an electric off road 4X4 project next?
Ummm slip joints? Unless you have the pivot point of axles at the U joint on the x-fer case side, then you will bind the drive shafts up.
Changing all those tires looks like a day's work ....crack open a cold one or three
you answered all of my Q at the end. thank you.
Having a set of those e-locking hubs on the rear axle would be cool too for having a rear dig ability. Allow you to turn sharper technical turns.
It's big, it's heavy... perfect candidate for a 2JZ. ^.^