Hello Peter... thanks for returning to basics... I rarely use ETTR with my Panasonic G9... I set my ISO limit to 6400 and then use Aperture priority as my main tool - unless I really need to control movement blur... I use Zebras on my subject and adjust exposure compensation until the subject is exposed correctly... I usually care very little about blowing the highlights with the background... I suggest tip#8 for your channel: Play with your camera's JPEG image processing algorithms: Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness and so on to get the basic colors and luminosity to your taste... And take time to consider your white balance... Slow down and enjoy the process and the resulting images will be better exposed (and you will get more "keepers")... Recently I have been adapting vintage lenses by the encouragement of you and Matti's previous posts... Thank you again! And now I tend to only Manual Mode a lot more... I can also suggest tip#9: Due to the constant live view preview on my gorgeous EVF I now can get the image as close to the exposure that I think is best... My current post processing is now very little...
For my exposures I use manual mode/aperture priority with several spot meterings to get an overall idea of the exposure for the areas I want to target. Then I look at the histogram to make sure I'm not missing one end or the other. Exposure composition is the last step before smashing the shutter. Another good video Peter..... it never hurts to have the basics smashed into your head one.more.time....... Stay safe & warm!!!
Thanks. Yes basics are important. Thinking about the basics is sometimes very good. When making videos about the basics is also useful to me. Need to think carefully.
I mostly use spot metering because it keeps me in touch with the various particular elements of the scene. I learned photography long before they were things like in-viewfinder histograms, when spot metering was one of the few “advanced” features, and I enjoy that basic approach.
Peter Lots of very practical tips and ideas .I liked the pie chart to illustrate the basics and remind us of the fundamental points to remember. Mostly I use Aperture priority and sometimes Auto if in a hurry. .
I use a light meter app + diffusor on my smartphone for metering the subject when I use manual mode. And I use manual mode only when I plan b/w beforehand. I began with Aperture Priority mode at first thanks to my smartphone photography past, but I started to appreciate and use the Shutter Priority more and more.
Hi Peter, good refresher video. I've grown to use Aperture mode as my default then I evaluate the scene before I change modes, with EC usually 0.7-1.3. I have started paying more attention to the "blinkies" and it helps. I will likely practice with Exposure Shift since I so often use EC. ETTR is my intent but I have to learn to trust/understand the histogram more in order to be effective. Thanks for the rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr reminders.
I have been using your flag colour ETTR exposure method for over a year now. It has totally changed the way I shoot. It gives me far more latitude in editing RAW files. It would have to be a pretty special situation to use the spot meter. Back in my film days I always wanted a Pentax V spot meter and expose using the zone system. For digital the afore mentioned system is great. A photographer using a 35mm sensor camera mentioned that he does not worry about exposure, he fixes everyting in post, not sure what I think of that. As always good video Peter.
I mainly use Aperture priority and ETTR with the histogram on the screen and the red color warning to help me not to overexpose. Then, and it may sound like a sin, I start processing in Lr with the Auto adjust of the light parametres. That's a good point for me to start and save time in the less creative work.
My first SLR was an OM1 forty odd years ago and I could only control aperture and shutter speed as the sensitivity was fixed by whatever film I had in the camera so it was always a trade off between freezing the action or depth of field. Now I choose my ISO and shoot about 90% of the time in Aperture priority mode and let the camera take care of the shutter speed. The metering is in ESP mode but I use ETTR as I always shoot in RAW. I also have flag colours set up so I get an early warning about over or under exposure. Like Matti I have become sloppy to an extent with my exposure as modern digital cameras are much more tolerant about exposure than learning in the 70's on ASA25 and ASA64 reversal film :)
My favorite mode is P mode and adjusting the scene using exposure correction and aperture correction. ISO is mostly fixed to 200. Why P - because I'm flexible if a shot needs to fast - rather be fast than sorry. Spot metering I do use only when shooting several portraits in a row. ETTR I do mostly not use because I prefer to have the leveling guide active - need to check the overexposure coloring setup g maybe this is a good option. 2nd most used mode is C4 - all set up for macro with manual flash 😉
I don't really have a favorite mode, but I very seldom use S. I don't use any metering mode, I use the zebra or histogram. Metering modes are a relic from the past, almost redundant today. To be honest, I have become a bit sloppy with my exposures, because modern cameras are quite tolerant of exposure as long as you don't overexpose too much.
I agree about the metering modes. Histogram and zebras/flag colors are better way. You are not wrong about the tolerance. I try to get the exposure correct (=the way I want it). Also the small mistakes are not that bad like it used to be especially with slide film.
I mainly use Aperture Priority mode and compensate based on what output I want. When I find it too fiddly , mainly when shooting landscape, and set the camera on a tripod I will move to Manual mode. I don't pay much attention to the metering mode, I just watch the histogram for clipping. ETTR, only when I want maximum dynamic range, but noticed that I don't need to shoot ETTR in HiRes mode. It actually tends to overexpose in HiRes
I have always loved exposure-related videos. I was told before that the camera doesn't matter as long as the user knows how to expose properly. On my GM5. I use aperture priority mainly and ETTR to my subject/the area I want the most details with. I use the live histogram plus the zebra set to 95% for my ETTRs. I use shutter priorty for birding and manual for astro. Cheers.
I use manual the most. It made the most sense to me coming from film cameras a few years ago & almost all of my lenses are manual. If I use any other setting, it's auto. That's reserved for the kit lenses & usually if I'm trying to capture something from the car window.
I mostly use the A mode with slight positive metering compensation hence ETTR. These days the light meters in cameras are so good that this formula usually works. Live view makes also this all too easy! But I learned much more on this metering theme with old film cameras with simple needle meters. Thanks for the tip 2 Peter!
Mostly manual. It’s a throwback to my first real camera, a Nikkormat FT2 where you adjusted SS and aperture to center the built in light meter. ASA was determined by the film chosen. Exposure compensation was done by adjusting SS or aperture to put the meter needle to either the plus side or negative side of the zero point on the meter.
I use the most manual mode to practice and to see how can I make corrections and as you told shutter priority as Aperture priority are also very important to use. to measure light I try to use different modes making the same picture and changing it to see results and to be able to choose the better one I consider. Thanks for the video good help for us.
I mostly use A, central area, with highlight and shadow warnings and the histogram to help keep an eye on things, with exposure compensation. With jpeg I don't go too far to the right. AEL button set to exposure. Plus auto ISO when it starts to get dimmer. Many of these settings from you, Robin, Rob and others. Lol. Bob.
S for birds, A for others, mostly. M1X does great job with P-setting when you feel lazy (not me, never!). Out-of-the-camera jpg is also very good, I can't really make better from RAWs. But thats me.
For me the same here, with E-M1ii With JPEG Superfine, I really don't better images out of RAW (shooting both in parallel) "P" means "professional" ;-) good for street photography, while all other modes are used depending on situation
Back at the beginning of digital photography, I spent a lot of time on forums looking at images posted by others. I was frustrated by my inability to produce images as good as those that other photographers seemed to be able to make worn ease. I concluded the main reason why professional quality images were better was because good photographers nail the exposure. That had not been a big concern of mine in the past as in film days I shot 98% negative film with lots of exposure latitude.
Mainly use apeture but depends on the situation. When doing BIF my camera is program to C1 for BIF and then i will shoot in shutter priority. My cameras histogram are also set on 10 for dark and 245 for lights.
I use mainly A and S, for specific situations like long exposures or e.g. life composite I use manual mode. In most cases I keep ISO Auto, but depending on what I am trying to capture, I also sometimes choose ISO. I have the colour warnings for highlight and shadow activated and find it pretty helpful. I am shooting in RAW mode mainly. Trying to approach the ETTR stuff! Thank you for your good work and for your really good explanations.
99% of the time I shoot in aperture priority, I only use full manual with my telescope and shutter priority when I need to freeze something. I use the spot meter with my telescope a lot because a bright moon on a dark sky will throw off the metering. I also use the spot meter along with moving the a single focus point to shoot people at church on stage; this allows me to meter and focus off people’s faces and not a dark background.
I use mainly Aperture priority on my EM5 MII when I storm chase. Occasionally I'll switch to shutter, but due to the fact i'm always in a lower light situation, i.e wall clouds, microbursts and tornadoes, Aperture suits my style fine. I do use ETTR as well.
I use Aperture most of the time except for wildlife where I use manual with Auto ISO so that I have a set shutter speed and aperture but can use exposure compensation adjusting the ISO. For exposure I tend to use ESP most of the time. Finally, thanks to your videos I have been using ETTR for the last year and half.
Spot metering is quite handy sometimes when there is really bright spot lights or you want to be sure that a certain part of the image falls into a certain grey value. In most cases the metering modes are not important, just use the histogram.
I use program mode a lot and then use program shift if I want to focus on altering the aperture or shutter speed. Behind that, I select an ISO appropriate to what I’m doing, eg 1600 if I’m photographing birds. It’s just my way of managing the ‘pie’ as you put it.
OK, I do not use ETTR. The reason is because there is a "color tone curve" built into the moasic software on the camera. It expects colors to be in a specific place in the curve. When you expose to the right, you also move the colors to the right and then you mess up the color tone curve and can get slightly out of corlor range. Also, today's sensors ore so good that there is enough dymanic range to adjust the picture in post processing of your RAW photo. Thanks for your videos.
I havent noticed it that much in the mid level of pixel illumination range, but for the top and bottom 15-20% it increasingly distorts colors. Simple experiment: find an area with a consistent color. Make sure the illumination has a gradient from clipping over exposure to clipping under exposure. You can do it as simple as an outside colored wall where there is no external lights that matters, ie without flash its all clipped black, then use any kind of light that is powerful enough to clip the highs, since all the light captured is from the same source WB or “color correct” representation is not that important. In theory the colors of the pixels should be consistent, just a variation in luminosity. ETTR and exposure corrected in post, can easily be detected thus at least in a nerdy pixel peaking way, you see color diffs in the brighter areas. Same in the lower range, if you do a lot of shadow lifting. However if it matters in the end is up to you, I wouldn’t see it as material, and in post you can adjust any color diffs that bothers you.
Hi Peter, hope everything thing is going well for you and your family. About your questions, I mostly use apperture priority with zone metering and using ETTR in most (like 90 or more percent of times) times. Only when I am doing landscapes and particularly milkyway shots I use full Manual. I usually shoot RAW+JPEG (because FUJIs JPEGs are great SOOC). I think I only use center metering in portrait shoots... Eager to see and participate in the new assignment in minimalism genre. All the best for you, your family and friends! PS - For when a new video and shootout with Matti?
Thanks for asking so far it has been good. I hope you and your loved ones are also ok. Great to hear that your are waiting for the minimalism assignment. it should around mid March. We will make videos together as soon as the virus situation gets better. We are going to the wrong direction here in Helsinki.
Very interesting. I’m mainly Aperture priority as I learnt on an OM2n, now on a OM-D5ii. I’m using spot highlight a little now for flying Red Kite & Buzzards as they are very small against the sky. Practice practice practice! Thank you.
Aperture priority with exposure compensation at -1, or manual and keeping an eye on the histo. I always keep a tiny little bit of space in the highlights for the sky.
I have four Pentax cameras two old 6 megapixel cameras and two 24 megapixel cameras. The old ones I have to use spot metering to get a fast espourse. They are a Pentax *istDL and a Pentax K100D my newer cameras are a Pentax K70 & a Pentax K3 - 11. The later cameras I can use more metering methods
I use Aperture more frequently but I sometimes use the auto on my Sony A7III and is often surprise to see that the camera automatically did a better exposure that I did. What do you think of using light meters?
Separate light meters are a bit obsolete nowadays. I used to use them quite a lot, especially in the studio. Now it is easy to set the exposure in studio with a few shots. Using the cameras light meters is of course still then way. You just have different indicators, like histogram and/or flag colors or zebras.
I shoot with aperture but for metering th light i tend to use HI and LO options and some compensation to fine tunning that. ( i was expecting your comment on that options but you jumped the subject on your video)
I use Program the most, but I also like using the exposure bias dial a lot, and also "Ps", when you rotate one of the dials, can adjust the aperture and shutter speed to a point where you may desire without needing to go into either Aperture or Shutter Speed Priority modes. Aperture Priority is the better option when using manual or vintage lenses, and I don't think there's an alternative to Manual when you're doing long exposures, such as at night. I tend to use the Spot Metering on digital for photographing birds and other such wildlife. I've been shooting some film cameras from the 70s and 80s lately, and the light meters on those are... less than fantastic. I've been using an android app called LightMeter lately, and it's given me perfect exposures on film so far, so I can't really complain about that. Though, it does sometimes feel a bit weird to take out a phone to spot meter just to then put it away to dial in the shutter speed and aperture. Sill, it seems a better value proposition to use it rather than some kind of handheld meter when you're out and about.
@@ForsgardPeter I find that if I want to quickly adjust DoF or deliberately slow down the shutter speed, turning the dial for Ps is faster than turning the mode dial to A or S, just to do the same thing, really. Maybe it's lazy, but I find that especially if you want to take a picture of a moving object, a bird/animal, car or something, it can be very time efficient.
You've adressed the ETTR method of exposure (and how to set it up on an Olympus camera) on multiple occasions, and I find myself using it more and more on my camera's. You've also mentioned that a degree of post processing becomes a neccesity if one uses the ETTR method, but I'm still a bit unsure how to approach that in an ETTR situation. Maybe you can go a little bit into how to approach post-processing a RAW file that has been taken using the ETTR method? What to take into consideration when it comes to post-processing an ETTR RAW file. Maybe not so much the creative aspect of post processing, but rather dealing with what essentially (in my mind anyway) is a sligtly over-exposed picture.
Yes I have and I use it all the time. The processing is quite simple. I lower the exposre and add contrast. The amount is up to you. Adjust the amount that makes the image look like the way you want it.
They way i understand it, ETTR is only useful if you don't have to crank up the ISO. Usually, (particularly in low light), you have to maintain minimum shutter speed to prevent motion blur, and minimum aperture for DOF or because your lens is already wide open, so the only way to ETTR is to crank up ISO, i don't think it will bring lower noise after post.
I mainly use aperture priority, especially with vintage lenses. I'm no big fan of manual exposure using the camera's built in meter. It will not change much and I see no use in dialing in the same numbers the camera gives you. And that from a man who comes from and loves his mechanical cameras. But I also cannot bring myself to ETTR - mainly because I'm lousy and lazy in editing.
Brilliant! Using the pies makes it simple and easy to remember. At 1:13, when the 3 shoots are next to each other, shouldn't the second pie (1/25s) be above the third image and the third one (1/250s) be above the second image?
Manual and always trying to get exposure right straight out of camera. I think I spend to much time with analog film cameras (not even TTL, I'm using handheld lightmeter for those) so I am kinda stuck in how I set up things. I never could get photos right when using one of automated modes. But then I'm using old and basic (entry level) DSLR. Perhaps with better camera I could get better result with one of auto modes.
Thank you for your quite useful videos Peter. I'm stuck with the camera functionality, I don't understand why in "S" mode the exposure seen on the screen does not correspond to the photo the camera takes after pressing the shot while in manual mode yes you see what to come out when you press the shutter ?
What do you think of combining the spot light meter with the tiniest focal point so that exposure gets always measured from that point? Does it make sense?
Hi some advice needed please , is there any way when using m1 mkiii when hdmi connected to tv hdmi set to record mode , can I delete the date and run time that still shows on the tv , much appreciated thankyou
Oops deleted my post by mistake, so reposting, sorry bout that... I use the histogram all the time (mostly EM1II), but in lowlight it is really not that helpful. In such situations, the EV reading the camera does still makes sense, and a 0.0 exposed image tends to be OK. At the same time, the histogram indicates severe under exposure, as your lights dims the distance between actual exposure and histogram indication increases. If you check the histogram whilst reviewing the photo in-camera, it is normal, as in what you would expect from a 0.0 exposed image. This is the same on all my Olympus Cameras, Em5II, Em1 and Em1II. I have experimented with a lot of settings, so it is not related to an unintentional Live View Boost at least. It is also the same regardless if shooting RAW or JPG, and it is consistent regardless of the JPG modes. Do you recognize this, do you have any hints what might cause this discrepancy? Random stuff
@@ForsgardPeter I'm very curious about what it is actually measuring since once the photo is taken, the histogram is "correct" even for low light photos.
Peter enjoyed listening to you as always. I would suggest you not keep perpetuating the myth that ISO is part of exposure ;-) I always ETTR, if shooting with a base/low ISO, ie an ISO lower than when the camera becomes ISO invariant. Once I’m using an ISO that is on the ISOless response curve, I will not push my in camera ISO beyond that, eg see here clarkvision.com/imagedetail/iso/ I would therefore like to suggest that the other thing every photographer should get to know is where/when their camera becomes ISO invariant. BTW I am an M mode guy ;-)
I think being told early on to shoot to the right was one of the worst bits of advice I was ever given. This can often provide a lack of contrast, even wash out the colours especially at wide open apertures. Expose for the main subject matter and use the histogram as a guide, be wary of letting it be the main driver for your image, that's what your eyes are for. Processing software can recover lots of detail even from dark areas. You should also be careful not to see exposure compensation as a way to make up for too smaller aperture, too lower ISO, to faster shutter speed, I only ever use it to balance out where the sensor insists on trying to even out the whole scene, shooting someone dressed in black standing in the snow for example, the snow will cause the metering to lower the exposure in matrix metering and aperture mode, losing detail on the subject dressed in black.
When using ETTR the sensor will record the most possible amount of data. Yes he images look a bit washed out. Lowering the exposure and adding some contrast will correct that. If you increase the exposure you will loose data and introduce noise to the image. None of the things you are saying is a problem when using ETTR. But it only works on raw. If shooting jpg the story is abit different.
![Shutter Speeds - [Facts And Information for your INSPIRATION!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h5hwK8QAVtw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Shutter Speeds - [Facts And Information for your INSPIRATION!]](/img/tr.png)
![Mastering Exposure - [5 Tips to Get the Right EXPOSURE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/33LPaj2rYhw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Learn Photography - [4 exercises to boost your CREATIVITY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yuPsEuAFgGw/mqdefault.jpg)
I think your "exposure pie" is the best way to explain the interaction I've ever seen.
I think so too. It is not my idea, but I do not remember where I saw it the first time.
Hello Peter... thanks for returning to basics... I rarely use ETTR with my Panasonic G9... I set my ISO limit to 6400 and then use Aperture priority as my main tool - unless I really need to control movement blur... I use Zebras on my subject and adjust exposure compensation until the subject is exposed correctly... I usually care very little about blowing the highlights with the background...
I suggest tip#8 for your channel: Play with your camera's JPEG image processing algorithms: Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness and so on to get the basic colors and luminosity to your taste... And take time to consider your white balance... Slow down and enjoy the process and the resulting images will be better exposed (and you will get more "keepers")...
Recently I have been adapting vintage lenses by the encouragement of you and Matti's previous posts... Thank you again! And now I tend to only Manual Mode a lot more... I can also suggest tip#9: Due to the constant live view preview on my gorgeous EVF I now can get the image as close to the exposure that I think is best... My current post processing is now very little...
For my exposures I use manual mode/aperture priority with several spot meterings to get an overall idea of the exposure for the areas I want to target. Then I look at the histogram to make sure I'm not missing one end or the other. Exposure composition is the last step before smashing the shutter. Another good video Peter..... it never hurts to have the basics smashed into your head one.more.time....... Stay safe & warm!!!
Thanks. Yes basics are important. Thinking about the basics is sometimes very good. When making videos about the basics is also useful to me. Need to think carefully.
I mostly use spot metering because it keeps me in touch with the various particular elements of the scene. I learned photography long before they were things like in-viewfinder histograms, when spot metering was one of the few “advanced” features, and I enjoy that basic approach.
Peter Lots of very practical tips and ideas .I liked the pie chart to illustrate the basics and remind us of the fundamental points to remember. Mostly I use Aperture priority and sometimes Auto if in a hurry. .
I mainly use aperture priority as I prefer to control the depth of field. I only use shutter priority when there is motion that needs control.
I use a light meter app + diffusor on my smartphone for metering the subject when I use manual mode. And I use manual mode only when I plan b/w beforehand. I began with Aperture Priority mode at first thanks to my smartphone photography past, but I started to appreciate and use the Shutter Priority more and more.
Hi Peter, good refresher video. I've grown to use Aperture mode as my default then I evaluate the scene before I change modes, with EC usually 0.7-1.3. I have started paying more attention to the "blinkies" and it helps. I will likely practice with Exposure Shift since I so often use EC. ETTR is my intent but I have to learn to trust/understand the histogram more in order to be effective. Thanks for the rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr reminders.
I have been using your flag colour ETTR exposure method for over a year now. It has totally changed the way I shoot. It gives me far more latitude in editing RAW files. It would have to be a pretty special situation to use the spot meter. Back in my film days I always wanted a Pentax V spot meter and expose using the zone system. For digital the afore mentioned system is great. A photographer using a 35mm sensor camera mentioned that he does not worry about exposure, he fixes everyting in post, not sure what I think of that. As always good video Peter.
Thank you. Glad that ETTR has helped you to get better images.
My favourite mode is A, since when not traveling I do mostly portraits and macro.
I mainly use Aperture priority and ETTR with the histogram on the screen and the red color warning to help me not to overexpose. Then, and it may sound like a sin, I start processing in Lr with the Auto adjust of the light parametres. That's a good point for me to start and save time in the less creative work.
Thank you
My first SLR was an OM1 forty odd years ago and I could only control aperture and shutter speed as the sensitivity was fixed by whatever film I had in the camera so it was always a trade off between freezing the action or depth of field. Now I choose my ISO and shoot about 90% of the time in Aperture priority mode and let the camera take care of the shutter speed. The metering is in ESP mode but I use ETTR as I always shoot in RAW. I also have flag colours set up so I get an early warning about over or under exposure. Like Matti I have become sloppy to an extent with my exposure as modern digital cameras are much more tolerant about exposure than learning in the 70's on ASA25 and ASA64 reversal film :)
Thanks for sharing. It is a good thing that the ISO has now a bigger part in exposure pie. It gives us more options.
My favorite mode is P mode and adjusting the scene using exposure correction and aperture correction. ISO is mostly fixed to 200. Why P - because I'm flexible if a shot needs to fast - rather be fast than sorry.
Spot metering I do use only when shooting several portraits in a row.
ETTR I do mostly not use because I prefer to have the leveling guide active - need to check the overexposure coloring setup g maybe this is a good option.
2nd most used mode is C4 - all set up for macro with manual flash 😉
I don't really have a favorite mode, but I very seldom use S.
I don't use any metering mode, I use the zebra or histogram.
Metering modes are a relic from the past, almost redundant today.
To be honest, I have become a bit sloppy with my exposures, because modern cameras are quite tolerant of exposure as long as you don't overexpose too much.
I agree about the metering modes. Histogram and zebras/flag colors are better way. You are not wrong about the tolerance. I try to get the exposure correct (=the way I want it). Also the small mistakes are not that bad like it used to be especially with slide film.
I mainly use Aperture Priority mode and compensate based on what output I want. When I find it too fiddly , mainly when shooting landscape, and set the camera on a tripod I will move to Manual mode. I don't pay much attention to the metering mode, I just watch the histogram for clipping. ETTR, only when I want maximum dynamic range, but noticed that I don't need to shoot ETTR in HiRes mode. It actually tends to overexpose in HiRes
I mainly use Aperture priority, occasionally Shutter priority when taking photos of my dog.
Spot metering is very useful when shooting the moon.
In all other situations I use the matrix metering
I have always loved exposure-related videos. I was told before that the camera doesn't matter as long as the user knows how to expose properly.
On my GM5. I use aperture priority mainly and ETTR to my subject/the area I want the most details with. I use the live histogram plus the zebra set to 95% for my ETTRs. I use shutter priorty for birding and manual for astro. Cheers.
I use manual the most. It made the most sense to me coming from film cameras a few years ago & almost all of my lenses are manual. If I use any other setting, it's auto. That's reserved for the kit lenses & usually if I'm trying to capture something from the car window.
I mostly use the A mode with slight positive metering compensation hence ETTR. These days the light meters in cameras are so good that this formula usually works. Live view makes also this all too easy! But I learned much more on this metering theme with old film cameras with simple needle meters. Thanks for the tip 2 Peter!
Mostly manual. It’s a throwback to my first real camera, a Nikkormat FT2 where you adjusted SS and aperture to center the built in light meter. ASA was determined by the film chosen. Exposure compensation was done by adjusting SS or aperture to put the meter needle to either the plus side or negative side of the zero point on the meter.
I use the most manual mode to practice and to see how can I make corrections and as you told shutter priority as Aperture priority are also very important to use.
to measure light I try to use different modes making the same picture and changing it to see results and to be able to choose the better one I consider.
Thanks for the video good help for us.
I mostly use A, central area, with highlight and shadow warnings and the histogram to help keep an eye on things, with exposure compensation. With jpeg I don't go too far to the right. AEL button set to exposure. Plus auto ISO when it starts to get dimmer. Many of these settings from you, Robin, Rob and others. Lol. Bob.
Unless I know in advance that I need a particular aperture I tend to use Program mode and then adjust the aperture in Ps.
That is a good way. Ps is almost the same thing as S or A.
S for birds, A for others, mostly. M1X does great job with P-setting when you feel lazy (not me, never!). Out-of-the-camera jpg is also very good, I can't really make better from RAWs. But thats me.
For me the same here, with E-M1ii
With JPEG Superfine, I really don't better images out of RAW (shooting both in parallel)
"P" means "professional" ;-) good for street photography, while all other modes are used depending on situation
Back at the beginning of digital photography, I spent a lot of time on forums looking at images posted by others. I was frustrated by my inability to produce images as good as those that other photographers seemed to be able to make worn ease. I concluded the main reason why professional quality images were better was because good photographers nail the exposure. That had not been a big concern of mine in the past as in film days I shot 98% negative film with lots of exposure latitude.
Mainly use apeture but depends on the situation. When doing BIF my camera is program to C1 for BIF and then i will shoot in shutter priority. My cameras histogram are also set on 10 for dark and 245 for lights.
I use mainly A and S, for specific situations like long exposures or e.g. life composite I use manual mode. In most cases I keep ISO Auto, but depending on what I am trying to capture, I also sometimes choose ISO. I have the colour warnings for highlight and shadow activated and find it pretty helpful. I am shooting in RAW mode mainly. Trying to approach the ETTR stuff!
Thank you for your good work and for your really good explanations.
Thanks, I try to do my best.
99% of the time I shoot in aperture priority, I only use full manual with my telescope and shutter priority when I need to freeze something. I use the spot meter with my telescope a lot because a bright moon on a dark sky will throw off the metering. I also use the spot meter along with moving the a single focus point to shoot people at church on stage; this allows me to meter and focus off people’s faces and not a dark background.
I use mainly Aperture priority on my EM5 MII when I storm chase. Occasionally I'll switch to shutter, but due to the fact i'm always in a lower light situation, i.e wall clouds, microbursts and tornadoes, Aperture suits my style fine. I do use ETTR as well.
I use Aperture most of the time except for wildlife where I use manual with Auto ISO so that I have a set shutter speed and aperture but can use exposure compensation adjusting the ISO. For exposure I tend to use ESP most of the time. Finally, thanks to your videos I have been using ETTR for the last year and half.
Thanks for sharing!
M and auto without flash. The lightspotmeter sounds intresting. The exposer compensation is useful. I learned that the hard way.
Spot metering is quite handy sometimes when there is really bright spot lights or you want to be sure that a certain part of the image falls into a certain grey value. In most cases the metering modes are not important, just use the histogram.
I use program mode a lot and then use program shift if I want to focus on altering the aperture or shutter speed. Behind that, I select an ISO appropriate to what I’m doing, eg 1600 if I’m photographing birds. It’s just my way of managing the ‘pie’ as you put it.
OK, I do not use ETTR. The reason is because there is a "color tone curve" built into the moasic software on the camera. It expects colors to be in a specific place in the curve. When you expose to the right, you also move the colors to the right and then you mess up the color tone curve and can get slightly out of corlor range. Also, today's sensors ore so good that there is enough dymanic range to adjust the picture in post processing of your RAW photo. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks for the info. That is an interesting thing. You are right about the dynamic range and the possibility to fix minor exposure errors in post.
I havent noticed it that much in the mid level of pixel illumination range, but for the top and bottom 15-20% it increasingly distorts colors. Simple experiment: find an area with a consistent color. Make sure the illumination has a gradient from clipping over exposure to clipping under exposure. You can do it as simple as an outside colored wall where there is no external lights that matters, ie without flash its all clipped black, then use any kind of light that is powerful enough to clip the highs, since all the light captured is from the same source WB or “color correct” representation is not that important. In theory the colors of the pixels should be consistent, just a variation in luminosity. ETTR and exposure corrected in post, can easily be detected thus at least in a nerdy pixel peaking way, you see color diffs in the brighter areas. Same in the lower range, if you do a lot of shadow lifting.
However if it matters in the end is up to you, I wouldn’t see it as material, and in post you can adjust any color diffs that bothers you.
Hi Peter, hope everything thing is going well for you and your family.
About your questions, I mostly use apperture priority with zone metering and using ETTR in most (like 90 or more percent of times) times. Only when I am doing landscapes and particularly milkyway shots I use full Manual.
I usually shoot RAW+JPEG (because FUJIs JPEGs are great SOOC). I think I only use center metering in portrait shoots...
Eager to see and participate in the new assignment in minimalism genre.
All the best for you, your family and friends!
PS - For when a new video and shootout with Matti?
Thanks for asking so far it has been good. I hope you and your loved ones are also ok.
Great to hear that your are waiting for the minimalism assignment. it should around mid March.
We will make videos together as soon as the virus situation gets better. We are going to the wrong direction here in Helsinki.
Very interesting. I’m mainly Aperture priority as I learnt on an OM2n, now on a OM-D5ii. I’m using spot highlight a little now for flying Red Kite & Buzzards as they are very small against the sky. Practice practice practice! Thank you.
Dawid thats(SPOT HIGHLIGHT) something i must try with my BIF
Aperture priority with exposure compensation at -1, or manual and keeping an eye on the histo. I always keep a tiny little bit of space in the highlights for the sky.
Why minus -1? Do you need to increase the exposure in post?
I have four Pentax cameras two old 6 megapixel cameras and two 24 megapixel cameras. The old ones I have to use spot metering to get a fast espourse. They are a Pentax *istDL and a Pentax K100D my newer cameras are a Pentax K70 & a Pentax K3 - 11. The later cameras I can use more metering methods
Thanks a lot for this exposure tutorial. I use aperture priority most of the time( in combination with ettr). And spot metering? Only occasionally...
I use Aperture more frequently but I sometimes use the auto on my Sony A7III and is often surprise to see that the camera automatically did a better exposure that I did. What do you think of using light meters?
Separate light meters are a bit obsolete nowadays. I used to use them quite a lot, especially in the studio. Now it is easy to set the exposure in studio with a few shots. Using the cameras light meters is of course still then way. You just have different indicators, like histogram and/or flag colors or zebras.
I always look at the histogram
I shoot with aperture but for metering th light i tend to use HI and LO options and some compensation to fine tunning that. ( i was expecting your comment on that options but you jumped the subject on your video)
There is something more about the metering modes in this video: ua-cam.com/video/xZ9jXhbJlcs/v-deo.html
@@ForsgardPeter Thank's I didn't know it was also spot measurement. Great Job as always.
I use Program the most, but I also like using the exposure bias dial a lot, and also "Ps", when you rotate one of the dials, can adjust the aperture and shutter speed to a point where you may desire without needing to go into either Aperture or Shutter Speed Priority modes. Aperture Priority is the better option when using manual or vintage lenses, and I don't think there's an alternative to Manual when you're doing long exposures, such as at night.
I tend to use the Spot Metering on digital for photographing birds and other such wildlife.
I've been shooting some film cameras from the 70s and 80s lately, and the light meters on those are... less than fantastic. I've been using an android app called LightMeter lately, and it's given me perfect exposures on film so far, so I can't really complain about that. Though, it does sometimes feel a bit weird to take out a phone to spot meter just to then put it away to dial in the shutter speed and aperture. Sill, it seems a better value proposition to use it rather than some kind of handheld meter when you're out and about.
Program mode is actually quite good when adjusting the exposure. Ps is quite similar to A and S when used wisely.
@@ForsgardPeter I find that if I want to quickly adjust DoF or deliberately slow down the shutter speed, turning the dial for Ps is faster than turning the mode dial to A or S, just to do the same thing, really. Maybe it's lazy, but I find that especially if you want to take a picture of a moving object, a bird/animal, car or something, it can be very time efficient.
You've adressed the ETTR method of exposure (and how to set it up on an Olympus camera) on multiple occasions, and I find myself using it more and more on my camera's. You've also mentioned that a degree of post processing becomes a neccesity if one uses the ETTR method, but I'm still a bit unsure how to approach that in an ETTR situation.
Maybe you can go a little bit into how to approach post-processing a RAW file that has been taken using the ETTR method? What to take into consideration when it comes to post-processing an ETTR RAW file. Maybe not so much the creative aspect of post processing, but rather dealing with what essentially (in my mind anyway) is a sligtly over-exposed picture.
Yes I have and I use it all the time. The processing is quite simple. I lower the exposre and add contrast. The amount is up to you. Adjust the amount that makes the image look like the way you want it.
They way i understand it, ETTR is only useful if you don't have to crank up the ISO. Usually, (particularly in low light), you have to maintain minimum shutter speed to prevent motion blur, and minimum aperture for DOF or because your lens is already wide open, so the only way to ETTR is to crank up ISO, i don't think it will bring lower noise after post.
It works on any ISO. The exposure logic does not chance. In this video there is some more info about that: ua-cam.com/video/jDLTybYbqr8/v-deo.html
I mainly use aperture priority, especially with vintage lenses. I'm no big fan of manual exposure using the camera's built in meter. It will not change much and I see no use in dialing in the same numbers the camera gives you. And that from a man who comes from and loves his mechanical cameras. But I also cannot bring myself to ETTR - mainly because I'm lousy and lazy in editing.
for bird photography always spot metering.
Brilliant! Using the pies makes it simple and easy to remember.
At 1:13, when the 3 shoots are next to each other, shouldn't the second pie (1/25s) be above the third image and the third one (1/250s) be above the second image?
Yes they are the wrong way. My mistake.
@@ForsgardPeter No problem, this is a great visual style tutorial. By the way I sent you a message in the "Ask Peter" page of your website.
Manual and always trying to get exposure right straight out of camera. I think I spend to much time with analog film cameras (not even TTL, I'm using handheld lightmeter for those) so I am kinda stuck in how I set up things. I never could get photos right when using one of automated modes. But then I'm using old and basic (entry level) DSLR. Perhaps with better camera I could get better result with one of auto modes.
The most important thing is to get the exposure the way you want it. If you are happy with your method, why change?
Thank you for your quite useful videos Peter. I'm stuck with the camera functionality, I don't understand why in "S" mode the exposure seen on the screen does not correspond to the photo the camera takes after pressing the shot while in manual mode yes you see what to come out when you press the shutter ?
It should show the photo as it is also in S mode. There might some settings that is connected to that mode. Have you checked your camera settings?
@@ForsgardPeter yes, I did but I'm not used to work with Mirrorless cameras this is my first one.
M mode little underexposed + exposure bracketing. I shoot almost only sunrises and sunsets. :D
👍👍
I usually use Manual mode and at the same time I put ISO in auto mode...
At 1:14 your exposure pies are mismatched with the photos below them. 2nd and third. Thanks Peter
Yes, you are right. My mistake.
@@ForsgardPeter thanks again for your continued informative content.
What do you think of combining the spot light meter with the tiniest focal point so that exposure gets always measured from that point? Does it make sense?
It does make a lot of sense.
Hi some advice needed please , is there any way when using m1 mkiii when hdmi connected to tv hdmi set to record mode , can I delete the date and run time that still shows on the tv , much appreciated thankyou
Not really sure if that is possible. Have you tried different scenes in our lcd. That might help?
Ok worked out by pressing information button deleted info all except battery percentage , any way I can delete this to , hdmi direct to tv?
Most likely not.
Peter, I notice you shoot in the Adobe RGB colour space; can you explain why please?
It gives a better reference image for ETTR. I convert the image to sRGB when I export them to jpgs.
@@ForsgardPeter Thank you
Oops deleted my post by mistake, so reposting, sorry bout that...
I use the histogram all the time (mostly EM1II), but in lowlight it is really not that helpful. In such situations, the EV reading the camera does still makes sense, and a 0.0 exposed image tends to be OK. At the same time, the histogram indicates severe under exposure, as your lights dims the distance between actual exposure and histogram indication increases. If you check the histogram whilst reviewing the photo in-camera, it is normal, as in what you would expect from a 0.0 exposed image. This is the same on all my Olympus Cameras, Em5II, Em1 and Em1II. I have experimented with a lot of settings, so it is not related to an unintentional Live View Boost at least. It is also the same regardless if shooting RAW or JPG, and it is consistent regardless of the JPG modes.
Do you recognize this, do you have any hints what might cause this discrepancy? Random stuff
Yes, in really low light the histogram is not realiable. Good point.
@@ForsgardPeter I'm very curious about what it is actually measuring since once the photo is taken, the histogram is "correct" even for low light photos.
1:15 Are your "exposure pies" mixed up?
Yes they are.... no mistake.... the first one is correct, but the second and third are mixed up.
Peter enjoyed listening to you as always. I would suggest you not keep perpetuating the myth that ISO is part of exposure ;-)
I always ETTR, if shooting with a base/low ISO, ie an ISO lower than when the camera becomes ISO invariant. Once I’m using an ISO that is on the ISOless response curve, I will not push my in camera ISO beyond that, eg see here clarkvision.com/imagedetail/iso/
I would therefore like to suggest that the other thing every photographer should get to know is where/when their camera becomes ISO invariant.
BTW I am an M mode guy ;-)
I prefer to not to use ettr only because I prefer not to spend too much editing.
That is a good reason.
Aperture
Did you say lighty??
I might have. I sometimes say words a bit funny.
I think being told early on to shoot to the right was one of the worst bits of advice I was ever given. This can often provide a lack of contrast, even wash out the colours especially at wide open apertures. Expose for the main subject matter and use the histogram as a guide, be wary of letting it be the main driver for your image, that's what your eyes are for. Processing software can recover lots of detail even from dark areas. You should also be careful not to see exposure compensation as a way to make up for too smaller aperture, too lower ISO, to faster shutter speed, I only ever use it to balance out where the sensor insists on trying to even out the whole scene, shooting someone dressed in black standing in the snow for example, the snow will cause the metering to lower the exposure in matrix metering and aperture mode, losing detail on the subject dressed in black.
When using ETTR the sensor will record the most possible amount of data. Yes he images look a bit washed out. Lowering the exposure and adding some contrast will correct that. If you increase the exposure you will loose data and introduce noise to the image. None of the things you are saying is a problem when using ETTR. But it only works on raw. If shooting jpg the story is abit different.