Seriously you deserve 10x the subscribers that you have. Hands down the most informative videos I've seen. Your information and presentation is spot on, and the included sample shots show that you're a talented photographer.
Sadly everybody watches the channels that tell them what equipment to buy instead of watching channels that help you work with the equipment you already own. I agree he deserves more subscribers.
Totally agree! Dylan has helped me understand how to better capture creative images without letting technical settings get in the way. Great video... thank you!
I'm a newbie for the Fujifilm system (and for the mirrorless world too) and I was trying the Auto Iso settings. I think I miss something in this function cause I tried to take some pictures but I found that ones taken with ES are more brighter than ones taken with MS or ES+MS. The subject is the same and the lights conditions are the same... what I miss? I can't understand what are my mistakes... If I set manual ISO, the pictures doesn't have differences in exposure. I tried the Auto Iso with M mode.
I can't say I that I've seen this issue. Perhaps try this test on a tripod. Remember that in any sort of automatic mode, the camera may read light differently with small changes in the composition.
I personally find full manual mode on my Fuji cameras useful for slowing me down and getting me to "feel" the photograph. Auto settings are great for when the action is moving quickly like at an event. However for those times when it's just me and a scene that I have plenty of time with them feeling and thinking about the dial turns helps to slow me down and consider the scene more carefully. It's a tactile and enjoyable feeling.
Definitely! Of course, there are scenarios when I will work in full manual mode for the reasons you mention as well as producing repeatable results. But this way of working gets used for day-to-day work where the above just aren't as important and getting a shot in the first place. It's definitely good to have the options.
I shoot Manual a lot but I don't need it to slow down and get me to feel the photograph. I enjoy Aperture Priority just as much as Manual, maybe even more sometimes. I'm still going to get my shot if it's in AP's capabilities at all. What using AP gives me is the freedom to think about my composition, feel and look even more than with Manual (even though I still think about it almost as much as when shooting Manual lol). But for me, AP is much more useful to me than Manual in certain situations (most natural light shoots).
After watching this yesterday I went out today with my xt3 and an old vintage lens. I set the camera to auto iso 1 with the settings 160 to 6400 and min SS 320. My exposure compensation is always on C so that I can use the front dial to adjust exposure comp. SS dial set to A. Now with my vintage lens having its aperture ring I was able to shoot everything by just adjusting aperture ring to suit my dof requirement and ofcourse manual focus. It was a great experience and felt really natural and easy. I liked it.... alot 😄🙂👍 Thanks for the vid. Sometimes it just takes someone to remind you of the options available to get you out of old ways and trying something different. Im sure this will be my goto settings from now on. Cheers... Best wishes Steve.
Hi Steve, Glad to hear this inspired you to get out and shoot! Auto ISO just knocks down one barrier when it's not needed, right? It can be a great way to shoot at times.
Nice video as usual. It is too bad that in auto iso the fastest shutter speed is only 1/500 rather than at least 1/1000, which is needed to freeze the action using a long lens. When I manually change it to 1/1000 I find that sometimes the exposure compensation goes crazy on my xt3 for some reason.
I don't recall for the X-T3, but all of my current bodies allow 1/8000 in auto ISO. If that's the case with the X-T3, I can certainly see it being annoying!
Can someone tell me please, how to record video on the x100v? I set the video mode and I can't change the aperture value, shutter speed and ISO(( I have tried everything and do not understand what is wrong(( Please help🙏
A digital camera is a computer that gives you the ability to Taylor the exposure as required, so why spend thousands of dollars for a camera and say im going to shoot every thing i manual, when I was shooting events things happened so fast, the lighting your location, one minute your shooting a still subject the minute it's moving. You don't have time to constantly change your exposure manual in that type of situation.
Shooting in manual is the same as driving a manual transmission vehicle. Totally obsolete because times have changed. But shooting in manual is still necessary at times because ALL cameras are cleverly compromised products with cleverly packaged limitations centering on imperfect technology while being stupidly over-priced. Hence, the market is flooded by many models from the same mftr that are really unnecessary. In the end, even if you buy a new Hasselblad, its an under-performing over-priced con job because you still have to transfer all those images into a PC and spend loads of time to correct and manipulate each image from reality into disreality on a big screen at home.
Hahaha! They barely even need to leave their parents hands for a shot like this. You can achieve the same level of excitement with many kids without even throwing them.
Thanks for the great advice. I especially think the idea of a higher minimum shutter speed set in advance is very clever for the x100’s, since they don’t have IBIS and control high iso noise pretty well anyway.
Dylan, thanks for making these vids! I have used aperture priority since the late 80s shooting film and continue to do so with my digital cameras. The auto ISO not so much, but these are excellent tips. I also didn’t realize there would be limits that some cameras have on shutter speeds when in aperture priority. THANK YOU! 🙏🏽 👍🏽
Thanks for watching! To be fair, there aren't many times when you'll go beyond 30 seconds in Aperture Priority, so it's not really a disruptive thing, but good to know nonetheless. You'll see the shutter speed turn red, which means the camera can't get the desired exposure by using its longest shutter speed.
Best free lesson about photography so far, that i've encountered on the youtube! You really know what you are talking about, and you talk it down like a fine narrator, and with no breaks in your speech, so nice to hear when someone explains things like that, and the practicality following your examples is beyond anything, because as a event photographer especially, or street photography, or nature your advices come in very handy, i just discovered your channel, i have the Fuji XT3, i recently got a Viltrox f.1.8 , 85 mm lens for, and i did a few shoots, works amazing, i just quickly searched your channel for it but i didn't find any, i'll do a thorough search later but if didn't already, maybe make one video about that one if you find a chance, so we can compare our results and work, like with other gear that you showed here.
I occasionally wake up in a cold sweat from nightmares about the first couple weddings I shot in manual mode, since 99% of what I shot prior required manual so I was set in my ways.
Hi Dylan, congratulations on your work and YT channel. You say that you don't determine the three Auto ISO in the camera, with 3 different parameters, but only 1. I assume that AUTO 1, in your case with 160 ISO-6400 ISO/min. 320ss. and that's just the one you use. What do you do with the other Auto ISO; AUTO 2 and 3? Just leave them unused? Thanks.
the only problem with this methodology and the x100v is that the bokeh looks awful at any SS higher than 1/500 due to the leaf shutter. just try it yourself. photo something nearby with a complex background far away and use f2. use at least 1/1000 (higher looks worse) and then use the nd filter and make sure it is 1/500 or less... the higher SS will look very jittery and bad. i can even see the effect on the top of your leaf image.... it may not bother some people but i think it looks horrendous... 1/500 or less looks buttery smooth. this is an effect of the limitations of the speed of the leaf shutter movement. not an issue on an xt3/4/30, etc. so using this method means a bunch of images might end up high SS and awful jittery bokeh. it's the ONLY thing i hate about my x100v. otherwise it's the most amazing camera ever.
If that's something that bothers you, I'm sure it'd be a bit disappointing to see. You could always keep an additional ND filter in your bag for those times when you absolutely feel like you must shoot f/2 and use a shutter speed under 1/500.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer there are very few issues where I would need another nd. it's more just having to remember to use it. it's not enough that I'd sell my x100v or anything. i absolutely love it otherwise. but my xt30 doesn't have that issue with the focal plane shutter. i have absolutely lost some portraits that would have otherwise been superb, but the bokeh ended up being incredibly distracting. if i had known at that time i could have used the built in nd to, at a minimum, improve the results if not eliminate the issue all together. but even now i have to make sure i remember that, and that's kind of a pain. if my xt30 had a built in nd and a comparable lens that small maybe i wouldn't need the x100v, but i carry it EVERYWHERE so the size makes a difference. and the 18 f2 lens isn't nearly as good as the 23 on the x100v. and the 23 f2 lens is too big...
I’ve seen a couple of your videos and I really like your way of explaining. Many video channels in UA-cam are loud and boisterous but don’t give clear and deeper insights as you give us with your calm and sincere presence. Thanks!
Thanks, Luiz! I can't do loud and boisterous, either. I feel like I focus too much on the presentation rather than the content. Just trying to do something a little quieter here. Glad it resonates.
Ain’t nobody got time for dat!! Seriously though I def don’t do manual anything. I shot weddings and events withmedium format and 35mm in the 80’s and 90’s. All manual. And w sunpack flashes and battery packs. Those days are long past. And I no longer have to rush home after an event, prepare my bathroom/darkroom and hope to God my little ones didn’t have to pee while I was developing film. Oh the good ole days. Lol. For me: aperture priority all. The. Way. With minor tweaks to ISO and compensation dial.
I’ve actually found having 3 different Auto-ISO settings on X100F to be rather useful :) Not so much to adjust the ISO range, but to adjust shutter speeds. I have one for 1/250 sec (my usual daylight setting), one for 1/125 sec (for more overcast days or when I need to use smaller apertures), and the third one for for 1/80 sec which is pretty much any other situation and I rarely go slower than that as I often shoot people (=kids) who are very bad at staying still enough :D With these three on a function button I rarely need to touch SS dial at all.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer Tell me about it! I had my eyes on X100V for a while now, and went a couple times to a store to try it and X-E4. Fuji went too minimalistic with the design. After putting what I consider to be my critical settings into function buttons, there was nothing left for the manual EVF/LCD/Eye Sensor adjustment. And that setting can't be even put into quick menu or my menu for some weird reason.
When I used Nikon DSLRs, I used to use this along with their TTL system in the SB 800s for corporate events. Absolutely flawless exposures every time. Sometimes, I miss that setup. It made life so easy.
Hello Dylan and thank you for the enormous help. I am also new to Fuji. Kindly tell me, when you override the SS on your AUTO ISO by dialing in another value, how do you go back to the set AUTO ISO. Does the new value remain or after the 1 shot camera returns the set value? And does this apply for AFS and AF-C? Many thanks again
Finally someone who can explain so good ! Thank you so much !!! I was struggling to understand my fuji camera. Now i can finally focus just on framing and focus ! You are great man ! A big thank you !!! Greetings from Germany .
I like all the dials on Fuji, just one glance and you know everything is set at A. Only aperture ring on lenses is problematic because there is no lock and it's easy to bump accidentally.
Thank Dylan for this video so well explained and so useful for street photography. I understand that shutter speeds depend, in part, on reasons such as focal length and the type of photography you do. For my part, I am a street photographer who believes that the movement and life of the street has to be noticed and around 1/125 would be my ideal speed with a maximum of 1/250.
HELLO DYLAN! I really enjoyed your video and what you do! Recently took your advice and did an experiment, we shoot with an Olympus E-500 with External Flash 1/250 f.8 at 400 ISO. EV Compensation is +2 points. Picture was nice, the Histogram showed image exposed properly! Did the same experiment with Auto ISO and the picture came out dark! So in my situation where we Photograph Rock Bands that are pretty much stationary with a little bit of movement by the drummer and colored LCD Stage Lights everywhere! Manual 400 ISO is the preferred setting!
Glad you enjoyed this video! Flash can be done with some automatic settings, but Auto ISO is one of those things I would avoid as there's no guarantee that the camera can get exposure info back from the flash unless you're using a system like Nikon's CLS, which I believe (from memory) is able to work this way. Best just to go manual and know that you're getting repeatable results.
Interesting the 1/320th shutter speed. I’m a freak of keeping everything sharp and I have set it to 1/125th. Probably my subjects are too static. About the ISO, I have set noise reduction to -4 cause I hate on purpose blurring. But that means noise grains are more visible, so I’ve set max ISO to 32000.
I have jittery hands at the best of times and move a lot. I've found 1/320 to be a good balance for me. When I'm moving slower, 1/125 is doable, but for walk around shooting it needs to be faster for me.
I love your photos. So sharp and natural… Do you use any preferred film simulation on your x100v? I have it on Eterna for everything. It’s super pleasing to me
Thank you for yet another super clear and informative video as usual from you. I’ll keep looking in your other videos for something relating to focusing (auto, manual, etc.). The way you connect the settings approach to the photo scenario (as in the single hand and umbrella example) really helps me understand.
I shoot AV auto iso most of the time, the work I get paid for means capturing moments. Canon has some nice tricks up their sleeve for this. I have my Menu button set to My Menu and the first thing that pops up is my shortcut to Min Shutter Speed. So I change that based on the lighting and can go really fast. Also you can tune the Auto Iso to err on the faster side a few steps. So if I need something slower, I can quickly go to Manual or TV and get my 1/60, but on AV I'll get 1/160. That's a great feature. Also, FV mode is great. You can quickly go back and forth from shutter speed and aperture in the same screen, I keep that on auto Iso as well. I'm just not used to it and fumble a bit when the pressure is on. Ideally I'd shoot Manual with auto Iso, and I use EV, but and a very big but, there is a bit of delay with the metering if going from inside to outside or other changes in light and I'll be off by a couple stops over or under and screw up a moment.
You can achieve a similar thing with Fujifilm cameras, as well. There are three auto ISO presets that can be configured and you can switch between them with the press of a button. Super useful, for sure!
I use manual mode. 99,9% v time- Especially with mirrorless camera, when you can see the exact exposure. I really do not like when I wanna také photo of some object and just changing my frame - trying dif composition will change my exposure. For weddings for example. Bride and groom are in the same light conditions but having more bride in the frame or more groom makes changes.
For sure! As I mentioned, there are plenty of times where I do exactly the same thing! If I have a set of images that need to have the same exposure to make my life easier in post production, I go straight to manual mode. Sometimes, though, I just find that it's an unnecessary block to my creativity and this method works for me then.
Excellent video ... ta very much. I've watched this video at least twice now but after seven months of X100 V ownership, I'm finally starting to see the light. So much to learn on this photographic journey so many thanks for this fine tutorial.
I really enjoy your videos. Great information along with photos to illustrate. And as I have X100V, I can better see and try your tips. For this video, I love the part where you grab a child and throw them in the air 😉. I look forward to more videos. Thanks!
Excellent! Speaking about situations where there is a need for full manual exposure mode (and, arguably, the manual focusing too) I would add studio portraying and macro (that is, non-moving small objects).
True! Not the type of shooting I ever do, so it didn't come to mind. I can certainly see taking your time and setting things up being good for macro, though.
This was a very helpful video in learning when and when not to use Aperture Priority mode. I have recently set my Fuji XT3 to Auto ISO. I've set up the AutoISO as you explained in the video, however, when I move the camera around, the ISO remains set to max sensitivity of 12800. It won't change at all when I set my own SS and aperture or when I've set my Aperture to Auto. I also shoot BBF. Thoughts on what I may be doing wrong or other settings I should check? Many thanks in advance
Thanks for watching, Liz. The camera doesn't meter for the scene until you half press the shutter or press the exposure lock button. At that time, you'll see it select an ISO value for you.
Really good stuff I pretty much always shoot in auto iso as well. I do like to pick my SS tho and with the x100v it's so easy I rarely put that into A mode. I honestly don't mind a little noise up to a point and that point is pretty much anywhere below 6400. At night do you ever let your ISO go beyond 6400?
A great way to work, for sure. I'm also not worried with anything up to 6400 on this sensor. Beyond that, though, things get a bit messy. I've never really been in a situation where I've needed to go beyond 6400. Once it gets that dark, I'm usually pulling out the tripod.
nice thanks Dylan, for once I really understand ISO increase for brightness but watch out for noise, SS decrease for brightness and aperture decrease for brightness but decreasing aperture takes away depth
Excellent explanation! I usually set the aperture and shutter speed manually and let my Xpro2 set the ISO. When I go out next, I'll try auto ISO - one less thing to worry about
can you explain more how to shoot flash with fuji? what will you set for the exposure preview option, and how to compensate the output of the flash into the exposure consideration.
Hi Kian, I have a couple of videos planned for the future about these topics. Once we're able to safely meet with people again, I'll be doing some of this. For now, you can actually take a look at some of the videos in my Techniques and Tips playlist. There are some in there, such as "Lighting an Apatani Shaman" that will help. Also, I've written an entire book about this (all dedicated to Fujifilm) that you can find here: fujilove.com/fujilove-ebook-flash-fujifilm/
I watchted the video, verre helpfull. I made the same settings in auto iso, including min ss 320 sec. With these settings I can not go faster than 320 sec......Is that correct?
Thanks for watching! You can always override it manually. Also, if the camera reaches its maximum ISO value, it will slow the shutter speed for you. Under normal circumstances, you won't see it drop below your set value.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer thanks! This realy helps. I could not go faster than 1/320 with f8 ( and iso at its max 6400), and the camera overrulls this with slower shutterspeeds. When opening towards f5.6 or f4 I could reach shutterspeeds faster than 1/320 within the iso range between 160 and 6400.
I confess, I am just a lowly photo hobbyist, so please bear with me. I tried aperture priority for quite awhile. A significant amount of images came out subpar (most surely my lack of expertise). Eventually, I tried manual mode with auto ISO. My keeper rate went way up. I do have to deal with more noise but can easily run it through Topaz DeNoise AI and I am good to go. I imagine in time I will move on to something better but love the challenge of always growing in knowledge.
Nothing lowly about loving the art of photography and enjoying it for what it is! If manual works for you, definitely use it! There is a place for each of the settings, I believe. That's why they're there. There are still plenty of times when I get out of aperture priority and move into manual. The biggest one being when I need repeatable shots from frame to frame. The most important thing is to enjoy the process and get the results you want!
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer “Being lowly” was tongue in cheek. As with most things human, ego enters in quickly making things unfun and super serious. Photography for me is just having fun and this what I am hoping to express.
Honestly, I'm never working quickly with the GFX so Auto ISO is of no benefit to me. I have it set up the same way just in case, but I have never used it.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer I have got the 50mm F3.5, it is so "light and Tiny" , I could just walk around and do street photography like I used to do with XT series, I am trying to catch up with your advices about "daily shooting" to build up "personal photography feeling". Thank you.
I like using my X-E3 in auto ISO while on the street. I keep the shutter at 1/250 my aperture at f16. And I zone focus. Sometimes I set the ISO to 400 and use aperture priority at f16 and let the shutter speed do it's thing.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer the only lens I own is the XF 27mm f2.8 so that's all I've used. I keep it at f16 because it gives the greatest depth of field. Especially when I zone focus at like 12 feet.
@@atroche1978 That's a fun little lens. As long as you're not concerned about diffraction, f/16 will certainly do the job. Personally, I typically love the details, so I steer clear of stopping down all the way.
When doing this my shutter speed still goes below 200 even though I set the min shutter to 200. Any idea why? The camera was in auto iso 1 and auto shutter speed.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer thank you. Makes sense I thought it would nit go lower than the values set. Saying that I was testing this in my room with the lights off lol
“Manual” was only necessary in the bygone era due to the limitations of old school unsophisticated cameras. Now, there are much more efficient tools and methods. Same as manual transmission gearboxes
There are still plenty of circumstances where manual is a better option. However, for casual photography, the automatic modes can certainly make it a more fluid process.
I love shooting in manual mode for all (focus, iso, shutter speed, manual aperture) Great practice for staying on your game in creative mode, manual becomes 2nd nature reflex. I'm old grew up on film with manual focus for sports, the good ole days though I hate film and films related costs, processing time and tons of darkroom time. Fast manila focus Eli's an especially important reflex skill to learn. Auto can make you lazy and lose manual skills
Best explanation I've ever heard on the topic, and very inspiring too! Really got me thinking about manually setting both the shutter speed + aperture more often and letting Auto ISO handle the exposure changes.
Manual mode is overrated. It has its uses, but with digital cameras, it’s too easy to blow highlights when the exposure isn’t nailed. However, it is important how all the modes work… but, not required to make a nice photo.
Seriously you deserve 10x the subscribers that you have. Hands down the most informative videos I've seen. Your information and presentation is spot on, and the included sample shots show that you're a talented photographer.
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate you taking the time to let me know that these videos are helpful.
Sadly everybody watches the channels that tell them what equipment to buy instead of watching channels that help you work with the equipment you already own. I agree he deserves more subscribers.
Totally agree! Dylan has helped me understand how to better capture creative images without letting technical settings get in the way. Great video... thank you!
I'm a newbie for the Fujifilm system (and for the mirrorless world too) and I was trying the Auto Iso settings. I think I miss something in this function cause I tried to take some pictures but I found that ones taken with ES are more brighter than ones taken with MS or ES+MS. The subject is the same and the lights conditions are the same... what I miss? I can't understand what are my mistakes... If I set manual ISO, the pictures doesn't have differences in exposure. I tried the Auto Iso with M mode.
I can't say I that I've seen this issue. Perhaps try this test on a tripod. Remember that in any sort of automatic mode, the camera may read light differently with small changes in the composition.
I personally find full manual mode on my Fuji cameras useful for slowing me down and getting me to "feel" the photograph. Auto settings are great for when the action is moving quickly like at an event. However for those times when it's just me and a scene that I have plenty of time with them feeling and thinking about the dial turns helps to slow me down and consider the scene more carefully. It's a tactile and enjoyable feeling.
Definitely! Of course, there are scenarios when I will work in full manual mode for the reasons you mention as well as producing repeatable results. But this way of working gets used for day-to-day work where the above just aren't as important and getting a shot in the first place. It's definitely good to have the options.
I shoot Manual a lot but I don't need it to slow down and get me to feel the photograph. I enjoy Aperture Priority just as much as Manual, maybe even more sometimes. I'm still going to get my shot if it's in AP's capabilities at all. What using AP gives me is the freedom to think about my composition, feel and look even more than with Manual (even though I still think about it almost as much as when shooting Manual lol). But for me, AP is much more useful to me than Manual in certain situations (most natural light shoots).
After watching this yesterday I went out today with my xt3 and an old vintage lens. I set the camera to auto iso 1 with the settings 160 to 6400 and min SS 320. My exposure compensation is always on C so that I can use the front dial to adjust exposure comp. SS dial set to A. Now with my vintage lens having its aperture ring I was able to shoot everything by just adjusting aperture ring to suit my dof requirement and ofcourse manual focus. It was a great experience and felt really natural and easy. I liked it.... alot 😄🙂👍
Thanks for the vid. Sometimes it just takes someone to remind you of the options available to get you out of old ways and trying something different. Im sure this will be my goto settings from now on.
Cheers... Best wishes
Steve.
Hi Steve,
Glad to hear this inspired you to get out and shoot! Auto ISO just knocks down one barrier when it's not needed, right? It can be a great way to shoot at times.
Nice video as usual. It is too bad that in auto iso the fastest shutter speed is only 1/500 rather than at least 1/1000, which is needed to freeze the action using a long lens. When I manually change it to 1/1000 I find that sometimes the exposure compensation goes crazy on my xt3 for some reason.
I don't recall for the X-T3, but all of my current bodies allow 1/8000 in auto ISO. If that's the case with the X-T3, I can certainly see it being annoying!
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer Thanks for responding.
Can someone tell me please, how to record video on the x100v? I set the video mode and I can't change the aperture value, shutter speed and ISO(( I have tried everything and do not understand what is wrong(( Please help🙏
I work at the the Ritz-Carlton and 90% of the time I shoot Aperture mode. Other time are harsh lighting or using flash
A digital camera is a computer that gives you the ability to Taylor the exposure as required, so why spend thousands of dollars for a camera and say im going to shoot every thing i manual, when I was shooting events things happened so fast, the lighting your location, one minute your shooting a still subject the minute it's moving. You don't have time to constantly change your exposure manual in that type of situation.
Shooting in manual is the same as driving a manual transmission vehicle.
Totally obsolete because times have changed.
But shooting in manual is still necessary at times because ALL cameras are cleverly compromised products with cleverly packaged limitations centering on imperfect technology while being stupidly over-priced.
Hence, the market is flooded by many models from the same mftr that are really unnecessary.
In the end, even if you buy a new Hasselblad, its an under-performing over-priced con job because you still have to transfer all those images into a PC and spend loads of time to correct and manipulate each image from reality into disreality on a big screen at home.
How high do you have to throw the child in the air to snap a shot before the inevitable descent?
Hahaha! They barely even need to leave their parents hands for a shot like this. You can achieve the same level of excitement with many kids without even throwing them.
APPRECIATE THIS VICEO! Although I'm basically a Manual Mode guy. I'm finding Aperture Priority to be a niice alternative! Thanks for this info...
Glad you enjoyed it. It's a useful way to work at times!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks for the great advice. I especially think the idea of a higher minimum shutter speed set in advance is very clever for the x100’s, since they don’t have IBIS and control high iso noise pretty well anyway.
Dylan, thanks for making these vids! I have used aperture priority since the late 80s shooting film and continue to do so with my digital cameras. The auto ISO not so much, but these are excellent tips. I also didn’t realize there would be limits that some cameras have on shutter speeds when in aperture priority. THANK YOU! 🙏🏽 👍🏽
Thanks for watching! To be fair, there aren't many times when you'll go beyond 30 seconds in Aperture Priority, so it's not really a disruptive thing, but good to know nonetheless. You'll see the shutter speed turn red, which means the camera can't get the desired exposure by using its longest shutter speed.
Best free lesson about photography so far, that i've encountered on the youtube! You really know what you are talking about, and you talk it down like a fine narrator, and with no breaks in your speech, so nice to hear when someone explains things like that, and the practicality following your examples is beyond anything, because as a event photographer especially, or street photography, or nature your advices come in very handy, i just discovered your channel, i have the Fuji XT3, i recently got a Viltrox f.1.8 , 85 mm lens for, and i did a few shoots, works amazing, i just quickly searched your channel for it but i didn't find any, i'll do a thorough search later but if didn't already, maybe make one video about that one if you find a chance, so we can compare our results and work, like with other gear that you showed here.
I occasionally wake up in a cold sweat from nightmares about the first couple weddings I shot in manual mode, since 99% of what I shot prior required manual so I was set in my ways.
Right! With mirrorless digital cameras, it's easy to preview the exposure, but with film or DSLRs, the pressure was a little higher to get it close.
Hi Dylan, congratulations on your work and YT channel.
You say that you don't determine the three Auto ISO in the camera, with 3 different parameters, but only 1. I assume that AUTO 1, in your case with 160 ISO-6400 ISO/min. 320ss. and that's just the one you use.
What do you do with the other Auto ISO; AUTO 2 and 3? Just leave them unused? Thanks.
Yes. Just leave them unused.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer Thanks Dylan. Keep your good work .-)
the only problem with this methodology and the x100v is that the bokeh looks awful at any SS higher than 1/500 due to the leaf shutter. just try it yourself. photo something nearby with a complex background far away and use f2. use at least 1/1000 (higher looks worse) and then use the nd filter and make sure it is 1/500 or less... the higher SS will look very jittery and bad. i can even see the effect on the top of your leaf image.... it may not bother some people but i think it looks horrendous... 1/500 or less looks buttery smooth.
this is an effect of the limitations of the speed of the leaf shutter movement. not an issue on an xt3/4/30, etc. so using this method means a bunch of images might end up high SS and awful jittery bokeh. it's the ONLY thing i hate about my x100v. otherwise it's the most amazing camera ever.
If that's something that bothers you, I'm sure it'd be a bit disappointing to see. You could always keep an additional ND filter in your bag for those times when you absolutely feel like you must shoot f/2 and use a shutter speed under 1/500.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer there are very few issues where I would need another nd. it's more just having to remember to use it. it's not enough that I'd sell my x100v or anything. i absolutely love it otherwise. but my xt30 doesn't have that issue with the focal plane shutter.
i have absolutely lost some portraits that would have otherwise been superb, but the bokeh ended up being incredibly distracting. if i had known at that time i could have used the built in nd to, at a minimum, improve the results if not eliminate the issue all together. but even now i have to make sure i remember that, and that's kind of a pain. if my xt30 had a built in nd and a comparable lens that small maybe i wouldn't need the x100v, but i carry it EVERYWHERE so the size makes a difference. and the 18 f2 lens isn't nearly as good as the 23 on the x100v. and the 23 f2 lens is too big...
I’ve seen a couple of your videos and I really like your way of explaining. Many video channels in UA-cam are loud and boisterous but don’t give clear and deeper insights as you give us with your calm and sincere presence. Thanks!
Thanks, Luiz! I can't do loud and boisterous, either. I feel like I focus too much on the presentation rather than the content. Just trying to do something a little quieter here. Glad it resonates.
ISO is your new best friend in digital photography.
Ha! You could argue that about almost any function on the camera. It's definitely a useful one, though.
Good points here, thanks. Delivery is very good. Keep referring to notes a tad too long. But worth watching again.
Thanks for watching!
Ain’t nobody got time for dat!! Seriously though I def don’t do manual anything. I shot weddings and events withmedium format and 35mm in the 80’s and 90’s. All manual. And w sunpack flashes and battery packs. Those days are long past. And I no longer have to rush home after an event, prepare my bathroom/darkroom and hope to God my little ones didn’t have to pee while I was developing film. Oh the good ole days. Lol. For me: aperture priority all. The. Way. With minor tweaks to ISO and compensation dial.
I’ve actually found having 3 different Auto-ISO settings on X100F to be rather useful :) Not so much to adjust the ISO range, but to adjust shutter speeds. I have one for 1/250 sec (my usual daylight setting), one for 1/125 sec (for more overcast days or when I need to use smaller apertures), and the third one for for 1/80 sec which is pretty much any other situation and I rarely go slower than that as I often shoot people (=kids) who are very bad at staying still enough :D
With these three on a function button I rarely need to touch SS dial at all.
Yep! Another great way to work. I have completely run out of function buttons on the V since it doesn't have the D-Pad any more. Haha
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer Tell me about it! I had my eyes on X100V for a while now, and went a couple times to a store to try it and X-E4. Fuji went too minimalistic with the design. After putting what I consider to be my critical settings into function buttons, there was nothing left for the manual EVF/LCD/Eye Sensor adjustment. And that setting can't be even put into quick menu or my menu for some weird reason.
Better yet is to just shoot in manual mode with auto iso.
@@LarsLarsen77 In certain circumstances, yes. Mentioned in the video.
@@LarsLarsen77 That's what I do 👌🏻
Started using this setup on Nikon D7200. Works great.
When I used Nikon DSLRs, I used to use this along with their TTL system in the SB 800s for corporate events. Absolutely flawless exposures every time. Sometimes, I miss that setup. It made life so easy.
Hello Dylan and thank you for the enormous help. I am also new to Fuji. Kindly tell me, when you override the SS on your AUTO ISO by dialing in another value, how do you go back to the set AUTO ISO. Does the new value remain or after the 1 shot camera returns the set value? And does this apply for AFS and AF-C? Many thanks again
Finally someone who can explain so good ! Thank you so much !!! I was struggling to understand my fuji camera. Now i can finally focus just on framing and focus ! You are great man ! A big thank you !!! Greetings from Germany .
I like all the dials on Fuji, just one glance and you know everything is set at A. Only aperture ring on lenses is problematic because there is no lock and it's easy to bump accidentally.
A brilliant explanation of how to use shortcuts and when not. Thanks I hope you make more videos
Thank Dylan for this video so well explained and so useful for street photography.
I understand that shutter speeds depend, in part, on reasons such as focal length and the type of photography you do. For my part, I am a street photographer who believes that the movement and life of the street has to be noticed and around 1/125 would be my ideal speed with a maximum of 1/250.
You're absolutely fabulous. Thanks
What about strobes can you do that?
Not sure what you mean Errol. Could you explain a little further?
Great informative based on experience video. Thank you
HELLO DYLAN!
I really enjoyed your video and what you do! Recently took your advice and did an experiment, we shoot with an Olympus E-500 with External Flash 1/250 f.8
at 400 ISO. EV Compensation is +2 points. Picture was nice, the Histogram showed image exposed properly! Did the same experiment with Auto ISO and the picture came out dark! So in my situation where we Photograph Rock Bands that are pretty much stationary with a little bit of movement by the drummer and colored LCD Stage Lights everywhere!
Manual 400 ISO is the preferred setting!
Glad you enjoyed this video! Flash can be done with some automatic settings, but Auto ISO is one of those things I would avoid as there's no guarantee that the camera can get exposure info back from the flash unless you're using a system like Nikon's CLS, which I believe (from memory) is able to work this way. Best just to go manual and know that you're getting repeatable results.
Interesting the 1/320th shutter speed. I’m a freak of keeping everything sharp and I have set it to 1/125th. Probably my subjects are too static. About the ISO, I have set noise reduction to -4 cause I hate on purpose blurring. But that means noise grains are more visible, so I’ve set max ISO to 32000.
I have jittery hands at the best of times and move a lot. I've found 1/320 to be a good balance for me. When I'm moving slower, 1/125 is doable, but for walk around shooting it needs to be faster for me.
I love your photos. So sharp and natural… Do you use any preferred film simulation on your x100v? I have it on Eterna for everything. It’s super pleasing to me
Eterna can be really lovely! I, too, use it from time to time. Personally, I work in Classic Chrome most of the time.
Thank you for yet another super clear and informative video as usual from you. I’ll keep looking in your other videos for something relating to focusing (auto, manual, etc.). The way you connect the settings approach to the photo scenario (as in the single hand and umbrella example) really helps me understand.
Glad it was helpful! This is just my approach, but I hope you can find some useful tidbits in there!
I shoot AV auto iso most of the time, the work I get paid for means capturing moments. Canon has some nice tricks up their sleeve for this. I have my Menu button set to My Menu and the first thing that pops up is my shortcut to Min Shutter Speed. So I change that based on the lighting and can go really fast. Also you can tune the Auto Iso to err on the faster side a few steps. So if I need something slower, I can quickly go to Manual or TV and get my 1/60, but on AV I'll get 1/160. That's a great feature.
Also, FV mode is great. You can quickly go back and forth from shutter speed and aperture in the same screen, I keep that on auto Iso as well. I'm just not used to it and fumble a bit when the pressure is on.
Ideally I'd shoot Manual with auto Iso, and I use EV, but and a very big but, there is a bit of delay with the metering if going from inside to outside or other changes in light and I'll be off by a couple stops over or under and screw up a moment.
You can achieve a similar thing with Fujifilm cameras, as well. There are three auto ISO presets that can be configured and you can switch between them with the press of a button. Super useful, for sure!
I use manual mode. 99,9% v time- Especially with mirrorless camera, when you can see the exact exposure. I really do not like when I wanna také photo of some object and just changing my frame - trying dif composition will change my exposure.
For weddings for example. Bride and groom are in the same light conditions but having more bride in the frame or more groom makes changes.
For sure! As I mentioned, there are plenty of times where I do exactly the same thing! If I have a set of images that need to have the same exposure to make my life easier in post production, I go straight to manual mode. Sometimes, though, I just find that it's an unnecessary block to my creativity and this method works for me then.
Excellent video ... ta very much. I've watched this video at least twice now but after seven months of X100 V ownership, I'm finally starting to see the light. So much to learn on this photographic journey so many thanks for this fine tutorial.
Thanks for watching! Glad you're getting something useful from the videos I've made! Enjoy that little camera of yours. It's a gem!
So in auto iso, your shutter is auto too?
I really enjoy your videos. Great information along with photos to illustrate. And as I have X100V, I can better see and try your tips. For this video, I love the part where you grab a child and throw them in the air 😉. I look forward to more videos. Thanks!
I guess I could have said that another way... but it pretty much describes the process. :D
Crisp. Tkx a ton.
Excellent! Speaking about situations where there is a need for full manual exposure mode (and, arguably, the manual focusing too) I would add studio portraying and macro (that is, non-moving small objects).
True! Not the type of shooting I ever do, so it didn't come to mind. I can certainly see taking your time and setting things up being good for macro, though.
This was a very helpful video in learning when and when not to use Aperture Priority mode. I have recently set my Fuji XT3 to Auto ISO. I've set up the AutoISO as you explained in the video, however, when I move the camera around, the ISO remains set to max sensitivity of 12800. It won't change at all when I set my own SS and aperture or when I've set my Aperture to Auto. I also shoot BBF. Thoughts on what I may be doing wrong or other settings I should check? Many thanks in advance
Thanks for watching, Liz. The camera doesn't meter for the scene until you half press the shutter or press the exposure lock button. At that time, you'll see it select an ISO value for you.
"I only shoot manual"
"Ohh, you've never taken kids photos?" 🤣🤣
#tootrue
Really good stuff I pretty much always shoot in auto iso as well. I do like to pick my SS tho and with the x100v it's so easy I rarely put that into A mode. I honestly don't mind a little noise up to a point and that point is pretty much anywhere below 6400. At night do you ever let your ISO go beyond 6400?
A great way to work, for sure. I'm also not worried with anything up to 6400 on this sensor. Beyond that, though, things get a bit messy. I've never really been in a situation where I've needed to go beyond 6400. Once it gets that dark, I'm usually pulling out the tripod.
nice thanks Dylan, for once I really understand ISO increase for brightness but watch out for noise, SS decrease for brightness and aperture decrease for brightness but decreasing aperture takes away depth
Glad these have been helpful! Nothing substitutes for practice, though. Hope you can get out and make some photographs!
Some helpful tips 👍 Do you use manual zone focussing predominantly or continuous af when using the settings you describe in the video
No manual focus here. All single point single AF on this camera. That's just my way of working, though.
Excellent explanation! I usually set the aperture and shutter speed manually and let my Xpro2 set the ISO. When I go out next, I'll try auto ISO - one less thing to worry about
Glad you enjoyed it. Give it a try and see if it works for you, for sure.
I almost always use auto ISO. But still learned some usefully tips in the video. Great presentation, Thank You!!
Thanks, Mark. It's a handy way to work when you don't need the control, for sure.
Your videos are a breath of fresh air compared to a lot of photography UA-camrs. 💪🏻
Thanks, Guido! I'm just trying to cut through the noise a little. Glad you got something out of it!
Thank you!
can you explain more how to shoot flash with fuji? what will you set for the exposure preview option, and how to compensate the output of the flash into the exposure consideration.
Hi Kian,
I have a couple of videos planned for the future about these topics. Once we're able to safely meet with people again, I'll be doing some of this.
For now, you can actually take a look at some of the videos in my Techniques and Tips playlist. There are some in there, such as "Lighting an Apatani Shaman" that will help.
Also, I've written an entire book about this (all dedicated to Fujifilm) that you can find here: fujilove.com/fujilove-ebook-flash-fujifilm/
Excellent explanation. Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I watchted the video, verre helpfull. I made the same settings in auto iso, including min ss 320 sec. With these settings I can not go faster than 320 sec......Is that correct?
Thanks for watching!
You can always override it manually. Also, if the camera reaches its maximum ISO value, it will slow the shutter speed for you. Under normal circumstances, you won't see it drop below your set value.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer thanks! This realy helps. I could not go faster than 1/320 with f8 ( and iso at its max 6400), and the camera overrulls this with slower shutterspeeds. When opening towards f5.6 or f4 I could reach shutterspeeds faster than 1/320 within the iso range between 160 and 6400.
I confess, I am just a lowly photo hobbyist, so please bear with me. I tried aperture priority for quite awhile. A significant amount of images came out subpar (most surely my lack of expertise). Eventually, I tried manual mode with auto ISO. My keeper rate went way up. I do have to deal with more noise but can easily run it through Topaz DeNoise AI and I am good to go. I imagine in time I will move on to something better but love the challenge of always growing in knowledge.
Nothing lowly about loving the art of photography and enjoying it for what it is! If manual works for you, definitely use it! There is a place for each of the settings, I believe. That's why they're there. There are still plenty of times when I get out of aperture priority and move into manual. The biggest one being when I need repeatable shots from frame to frame. The most important thing is to enjoy the process and get the results you want!
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer “Being lowly” was tongue in cheek. As with most things human, ego enters in quickly making things unfun and super serious. Photography for me is just having fun and this what I am hoping to express.
Awesome video and explanation 👍
Loved 😍 it
Hope it was helpful!
Amazing tutorial! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Well explained. You have a new subscriber- X100F and Nikon Z6 user. Thank you!
Awesome, thank you!
I am wondering what is your "Auto ISO" setting for GFX100s ? Yes, "Auto ISO" is so helpful and convenient.
Honestly, I'm never working quickly with the GFX so Auto ISO is of no benefit to me. I have it set up the same way just in case, but I have never used it.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer I have got the 50mm F3.5, it is so "light and Tiny" , I could just walk around and do street photography like I used to do with XT series, I am trying to catch up with your advices about "daily shooting" to build up "personal photography feeling". Thank you.
@@dongliu5002 Good luck! Enjoy the process.
I like using my X-E3 in auto ISO while on the street. I keep the shutter at 1/250 my aperture at f16. And I zone focus. Sometimes I set the ISO to 400 and use aperture priority at f16 and let the shutter speed do it's thing.
Interesting! What makes you choose f/16? Which lens are you typically using?
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer the only lens I own is the XF 27mm f2.8 so that's all I've used. I keep it at f16 because it gives the greatest depth of field. Especially when I zone focus at like 12 feet.
@@atroche1978 That's a fun little lens. As long as you're not concerned about diffraction, f/16 will certainly do the job. Personally, I typically love the details, so I steer clear of stopping down all the way.
When doing this my shutter speed still goes below 200 even though I set the min shutter to 200. Any idea why?
The camera was in auto iso 1 and auto shutter speed.
When the camera reaches your set ISO limit, it will compensate with shutter speed if it needs to in order to get a "correct" exposure.
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer thank you. Makes sense I thought it would nit go lower than the values set. Saying that I was testing this in my room with the lights off lol
@@bobbyfranklin5924 That'll do it! haha
Well done. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Some great ideas in this video!
Hope it's a helpful approach.
“Manual” was only necessary in the bygone era due to the limitations of old school unsophisticated cameras.
Now, there are much more efficient tools and methods.
Same as manual transmission gearboxes
There are still plenty of circumstances where manual is a better option. However, for casual photography, the automatic modes can certainly make it a more fluid process.
Real content... Nice to see
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dylan.
Thank YOU for watching!
Great video Dylan, very informative
Thanks for watching!
@@DylanGoldbyPhotographer my pleasure!
I love shooting in manual mode for all (focus, iso, shutter speed, manual aperture) Great practice for staying on your game in creative mode, manual becomes 2nd nature reflex. I'm old grew up on film with manual focus for sports, the good ole days though I hate film and films related costs, processing time and tons of darkroom time. Fast manila focus Eli's an especially important reflex skill to learn. Auto can make you lazy and lose manual skills
Helpful. Ta
Glad to hear it. Thanks for stopping by.
Best explanation I've ever heard on the topic, and very inspiring too! Really got me thinking about manually setting both the shutter speed + aperture more often and letting Auto ISO handle the exposure changes.
Cheers, Randy! Everything is in there for a reason. We just need to figure out what works for us as photographers.
Just shoot manual all the time lol. I don't know any pros who shoot auto-ISO, ever.
Manual mode is overrated. It has its uses, but with digital cameras, it’s too easy to blow highlights when the exposure isn’t nailed. However, it is important how all the modes work… but, not required to make a nice photo.
Everything has its place, for sure. Thanks for stopping by.