I have been told in the past that all negative wires should be connected to the negative battery terminal and not to earthed to the alloy hull. I was told this can cause electrolysis to the alloy.
Just to tidy up all your wireing and a bit of protection from sun look for a product called split loom it’s a hard warring ribbed plastic that you just slide over the wireing simple cable tie hold it in place very neat tidy most places carry it like super cheap Bunnings. Jcar. It’s how most boat shops keep their wireing neat
thanks mate i was just watching the video again, could of the bilge pump that pumps out could be right at the bottom to drain? or would it be too risky to do if it leaked into the hull? thinking about doing this next year thank you
Really like this style aluminum boats y’all run in AUS. We also run a lot of custom aluminum boats in south Louisiana. Good video …nice seeing DIY projects like this.
Mate just found this vid so my comment is a bit late. Not wishing to rain on your parade, however each circuit needs to be fused or protected with a manual reset circuit breaker, not straight off a battery terminal. Your negative bus also needs to be well insulated not in the open where it could track or short to the hull of the boat and become corroded. If one of those single insulated cables rubs through and comes into contact with the hull, a short circuit may occur. Without a protection device in the circuit, high current will flow until the cable burns through or worse. The fuse size needs to be rated for the current carrying capacity of the cable so the cable cannot become over loaded. Your battery box may have one large fuse or CB however may not open circuit on a smaller cable fault. You should also have a main isolating switch to disconnect the battery from all out going circuits, as close to the battery as possible. I've seen aluminium boats burn on their trailers when cables have rubbed through due to not being able to isolate the battery, or the owner has forgotten to turn the isolator off. It's spectacular, especially when the fuel vapours from the tank breather ignite.
Appreciate the advice. Will get a sparky to look at it and do what needs to be done. All circuits have been fused according to draw and wire size. But I know the negative block could be better protected.
First 2minutes. That’s a bloke who does things right. You can tell by the ease you have with your tools alone. Great vid mate cheers
Appreciate that. Thanks
Like the sound of surprise in your voice when it all worked. Good job.
Diana Archie lol.
Sensational Wayne. great job. If you can do it yourself to save money why not, well done mate.
David Sager thanks David
Hi Wayne I put a stainless pickup tube
Years back on my tank was handy without worrying about bubbler.. but yours looks great
TheChrisco1969 Hi Chrisco. I had one on my last boat but it didn’t do much unless I was underway.
I have been told in the past that all negative wires should be connected to the negative battery terminal and not to earthed to the alloy hull. I was told this can cause electrolysis to the alloy.
Bloody legend mate been watching your vids for awhile and learnt alot.. thank you 👍
Most welcome
Good vid mate, I’ll be making a tank soon, I like your sliding track idea, I think I will do something similar.
Glad you liked it
Awesome will definitely be doing this on my next boat
Glad you liked it
Awesome video mate. Had any dramas with the aerator clogging up? I have the same one and it blocks so fast and stops pumping
Yep sure have. Bit of a pain
Great video mate
Glad you liked it.
Just to tidy up all your wireing and a bit of protection from sun look for a product called split loom it’s a hard warring ribbed plastic that you just slide over the wireing simple cable tie hold it in place very neat tidy most places carry it like super cheap Bunnings. Jcar. It’s how most boat shops keep their wireing neat
Yep I know it. I’m just a bit lazy.
Bloody
good
pump
mate
Thanks
Great work mate
Brian Hayes thanks Brian
thanks for watching
Hey Wayne did mounting it there affect the transducer in anyway?
No not at all
I don't think you need a pump to pump out, mine just has a overflow tube and it runs out, saves power running a second pump
Agree
Hey mate just wonder what size pumps you used thank you turned out great
thanks mate i was just watching the video again, could of the bilge pump that pumps out could be right at the bottom to drain? or would it be too risky to do if it leaked into the hull? thinking about doing this next year thank you
Yes it could have been bilge out of a drain hole. Just didn’t want to put another hole in the tub.
@@Wayne.Groomes.Fishing okay thank you, also just wondering what size pumps did you use thank you
@@newport5504 that was a year ago. Will check next time I’m in the tub and let you know
@@Wayne.Groomes.Fishing hey mate with the bilge in the bait tank do you only turn it on to drain thank you
Great job.
Thanks.
Fantastic!
Glad you liked it
Does the wife like the everything bit?
Not sure
Good one, is there any reason you haven’t fused the pumps?
Cam Bill no reason. But now you mention it I will. Thanks. Just getting old.
Do you use fishbrain?
no
Where did you order that livewell tank from?
It’s a poly tank
Nice build mate.
Ha ha ha... I can't get past the really white hair... Have only ever seen you with a totally shaved head or wearing a hat... 😜
Andrew Walkington lol. Sucks getting old.
@@Wayne.Groomes.Fishing happens to us all... Hair is "wisdom" coloured...
Really like this style aluminum boats y’all run in AUS. We also run a lot of custom aluminum boats in south Louisiana. Good video …nice seeing DIY projects like this.
🤯
😉
Mate just found this vid so my comment is a bit late. Not wishing to rain on your parade, however each circuit needs to be fused or protected with a manual reset circuit breaker, not straight off a battery terminal. Your negative bus also needs to be well insulated not in the open where it could track or short to the hull of the boat and become corroded. If one of those single insulated cables rubs through and comes into contact with the hull, a short circuit may occur. Without a protection device in the circuit, high current will flow until the cable burns through or worse. The fuse size needs to be rated for the current carrying capacity of the cable so the cable cannot become over loaded. Your battery box may have one large fuse or CB however may not open circuit on a smaller cable fault. You should also have a main isolating switch to disconnect the battery from all out going circuits, as close to the battery as possible. I've seen aluminium boats burn on their trailers when cables have rubbed through due to not being able to isolate the battery, or the owner has forgotten to turn the isolator off. It's spectacular, especially when the fuel vapours from the tank breather ignite.
Appreciate the advice. Will get a sparky to look at it and do what needs to be done. All circuits have been fused according to draw and wire size. But I know the negative block could be better protected.