Installing Head Unit & Speakers In 97-05 Lexus GS (DETAILED)
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2020
- This video is made as a detailed guideline to show you how to replace the head unit and door speakers on a 97-05 Lexus GS.
I hope it was helpful!
Parts used in this video:
- Headunit: amzn.to/3ayoHgR
- Headunit Dash Adapter Plate: amzn.to/3209fpR
- Headuit Wiring Adapter: amzn.to/2DTjHrv
- Speakers: amzn.to/326LFrQ
- Front Speaker Adapters: amzn.to/348nqfq
- Rear Speaker Adapters: amzn.to/346QZxJ
Tools needed & used for this repair:
- ¼ Inch Socket & Ratchet Set: amzn.to/316vN9s
- Basic Screw Driver Set: amzn.to/3gd9TWp
- Wire Strippers: amzn.to/2EfYsQ4
- Heat Shrink: amzn.to/3g4CgpE
Other Related Videos:
- 7th Gen Corolla Detailed Headunit Installation: • Head Unit Upgrade 93-9...
- Lexus GS300 Playlist: • 2001 Lexus GS300
Please note that I am not a professional mechanic, nor am I saying that you must do exactly what I say in this video. Perform these repairs at your own risk! Safety first ;) - Авто та транспорт
Excellent job, dude. Side note -- If you're watching this to do something similar, do yourself a favor and replace the servo motors while you have all of this out. They're notorious for failing plastics and will not work correctly and make all kinds of groaning noises and cause climate issues in your car as well. These are extremely easy to replace and very cheap. it'll save you from having to pull all of this out again to replace them eventually.
Thank you! And yes you are totally right. I actually have a video on how to replace the "Mode" servo motor. The process for the other ones is the same you just have to locate them. But you are correct, they always fail on these cars.
Man, thanks for this comment. I was going to reolace those because my ac temoature wont change, and I think the servo that changes the temp is stuck.
@danlopez776 yup, very likely, very common failure point.
U literally saved me from searching the web ov and ov for my gs300 speakers thx
this is the most detailed and helpful video i’ve ever seen no exaggeration, i was thinking of buying a GS400 but the biggest thing is i want a car where a sound system is easy to make while having it pretty stock interior without cutting, found this video ended up watching the whole thing, definitely going to watch this through a month or 2 from now when i get my GS
To be honest it's not the easiest car to install a new head unit into, but it's also not the most difficult. However the end result is amazing... if you replace the speakers and add your own sub and amp... you'll love it!
One of the best diy videos I’ve ever seen. Cool to see someone who really knows their way around electrical systems. As a hint from another GS fan and a weekend wire warrior, try getting a couple of seam rippers - like for sewing - to remove the wire sheathing. Way easier than knives. Again tho, fantastic video - thanks for posting.
Thank you!!
And you know, I actually saw that trick on a video I was watching a while ago but I never got around to buying a seam ripper. But it did appear to come in very very handy!
Finally someone did a video like this. You are the only person who has a detailed video on a gs300 for speakers install. Now I'm confident to do it on my own. Thx bro
Awesome, thanks! And I'm glad the video helped out!
I have the 98 of this car. Doors are much of the same. Love your educational video!
Thank you!
Thank you for the Quality Video ! Visual clarity, Clear and concise instructions, and might I add. it takes a heck of a guy to positively respond to so many comments!! If I may ,,,A. gentleman aand a scholar
Thank you, appreciate that! And I'm glad that the video helped you out!
Thanks for sharing this, it was super helpful
This tutorial was very helpful thanks
Bravo....you're explanation was clearly step by step......🙏
Thank you!
You are heaven sent
Thank you for this video
Awesome video! Very helpful.
Awesome Video! Best installation instructions THANK You! 👍🏽
Thank you!
I've been looking for a video like this for months.👍🏻
Well I'm happy you found this one!
@@AutoFixYT hey if I have a amp bypass harness do I still need a wiring harness? And also do I have to bypass the amp? Or can I leave them connected to power door speakers ?? I’m installing a double din and subwoofers. And door speakers in the future
@@michaeladrianramasami9209 You need to bypass the factory amp if you are installing an aftermarket head unit. So do whatever you need to do for that. The new head unit is what will power the door speakers. You need the plugs that are in the factory amp to plug into your new head unit. You are not reusing the plug that was in the original head unit.
@@AutoFixYT thank you so much. Now everything makes more sense😅
@@michaeladrianramasami9209 My pleasure! Let me know if you have any other questions.
I'm about to fit a double din one to my GS300 1999 and caught your video. Just a note that my radio has 3 plugs ! I'm in the UK. Hopefully the rest of the wiring will be the same.
Very useful video, thanks.
Very interesting, thank you! Good to know!
Good luck on your install, hope it all goes smoothly!
Just checked the diagram and its meant to be the auto antenna. When I have it sorted I will let you know the result, thanks.
@@Golo1949 Got it. The US models don't have power antennas, weird
@@Golo1949update?
Everything was perfect... way better than everyone routing a wire or extending the whole harness from the amp back to the deck.. only small advice I have is to add a bass block to the tweeters. It will help the tweets last longer and not blowing/distorting.
Yes that is very good advice and that is something I have kind of taken care of. I want to eventually replace these tweeters but for now I have actually taken the resistors out of the stock speakers (you have to open up the speaker enclosure and de-solder the resistor) and I have wired it in to the wire feeding the tweeters. Before that it was really bad, they were working waaay too hard. Now it's normal but sometimes I can still hear them trying to play frequencies that they're not supposed to be playing. One day I'll get to it though. But thank you for the feedback, you are correct.
Clutch , thanks for extremely detailed video
Glad it helped!
Awesome video very informative 👍
Thanks!
A good solution to not have to deal with all the rats nest of wiring, is to extend the radio harness and adapter harness outside the car with some spare wire, leave the 12v switched and illumination out, that way you just run them seperately over the the amp plugs, zip tie the new extended harness to the factory one, and connect 12v switched and illumination right at the stereo harness. Makes it a whole lit simpler than cutting open the factory loom and dealing with all that rats nest
Great video!
Thanks!
Thank you!!! These cars are such a pain!
Haha yes when it comes to the head unit they are not fun to modify... But totally worth it in the end!
Before watching this video: How hard could it be? its just a couple of connectors right?
After watching this video: spaghetti wire nightmares.
It doesn't look too hard, but I have never done wiring before so I think I will leave that to a professional. Nice video, learnt a lot about my car from it!
Haha honestly that's what i thought before starting the job too. I've replaced head units before and have even wired in speakers and amps and have done lots of other wiring. But then as I was doing the job I was thinking "this is a nightmare" hahahaha
But once i started I couldn't stop and go back so I had to keep on pushing through. Took me two days to finish it all, including the speaker install and everything. It was totally worth it though! The music sounds amazing now. I also built a custom sub to finish it all off and it sounds so good!
But I'm glad that the video helped you learn! And sometimes these how-to videos aren't just to show people how to do it themselves, but also to make them realize what they can and can't do! I've had this happen before too. I want to do a job, watch a video, and realize i literally cannot get it done. So I have to have a professional do it. And that's ok! Because if I tried I probably would have made things worse.
@@AutoFixYT I'm just grateful you talked about the speaker mounts because I had NO IDEA that the speakers are part of the mount as well, that would have been a big shock when the shop tells me I need to find some. Unfortunately the front door mounts you used are not available anymore as far as I can tell so I will have to source a replacement for them, but I have all the other stuff you used bookmarked for when I am ready to replace everything in my own car.
I only really wanted to try replace my nav system with a non nav aircon controller, and your video showed me exactly how to do that so I really do appreciate what you did. And it was a great video, didn't feel anywhere near as long as it was so I was quite surprised when I finished it and looked at the time.
@@Ixxlostinabox Oh no, well hopefully you find the speaker adapters somewhere!
And I'm glad it was helpful and entertaining! Haha thank you!
If your early model Lexus came with the Navigation system (my GS400 did), which also controls the HVAC (Heat/Vent/Air Conditioning), removing the outdated Navigation unit also removes your HVAC! I thought I was doomed for a minute. However, you likely have another option.
As you can see in this video, models that did not have the Navigation system have a separate, single-DIN HVAC controller (shown above the factory radio at the beginning of this video). My Navigation unit sat in the top, and had a tape deck underneath.
I found this separate HVAC controller module online, used for cheap. It fit perfectly in the space, and the electrical plugs that were removed from the Navigation model plugged right in to this standalone HVAC controller!
Good video. But... what I learned from this video: keep my factory Lexus stereo unit.
Haha it is indeed a more complicated procedure. I did it so I can have bluetooth connectivity and better sound, but the factory system is also good
@@AutoFixYT You probably know but I get around that by having a Bluetooth casette adapter. Very old school but it works. I'd love to have a new stereo myself though, I'm known amongst my friends for having expensive stereo gear my entire life.
Again, very good video, very instructive. Keep up the good work.
@@RedRider2001 Yup I know exactly what you're talking about. But... although it gets the job done well, you don't get that nice clean sound you'd get through a good head unit and some good speakers. And since you're known for awash having nice audio in your cars, why not continue the tradition lol
@@AutoFixYT Mainly because I have a lot of other expenses like owning a house. My home stereo system is embarrassingly expensive. I had expensive after market stereos in my cars before this Lexus but I'm older now and don't listen to music as loud anymore, is another reason, so I don't feel like I need the power and performance.
My older car systems and home stereo would rattle your teeth. And I mean good clean stereo sound, too. ;-)
@@AutoFixYT And btw I really dislike the cheap plastic surrounds of aftermarket DIN adapters.
not sure if youll see this but im glad i came across this video, im about to throw in my scar audio speakers, i did my head unit a couple weeks ago… do you know what size the tweeters are if i wanted to replace them? I was about to buy some but i didnt know the exact size id need
Awesome! Glad this video helped!
I believe the tweeters are 1" tweeters.
@@AutoFixYT Thanks so much for your help nd reply!
You can use the stock speaker boxes. Just have to trim them to fit the 6.5s
Yeah true, but they might sound weird considering they're acoustically built for those speakers they came with.
Is there enough space between the door card and the speaker with a 6.5?
I bought some plug and play brackets to convert the front speakers to 6.5 but now I'm having some regrets that the speakers might sit too far out when I eventually start pulling new door wires etc
Well if the brackets were made for that car and the speakers are average mounting depth, they will fit.
Any help on using the factory amp with an aftermarket head unit? I was debating on ideas. Could I simply split the amp outputs rcas? And run it that way? I don’t seem any info on doing this. Nvm it’s too much of a hassle lol. I’m gonna just stick a small amp in its place and run the sub off it ig.
Haha yeah I think it's a good thing you changed your mind. Unfortunately it will be tricky to do what you said initially. You can try, I have tried that before with other cars and it kinda sorta worked, but it is a huge headache... you're better off with a little amp just for the sub
do you not need a crossover when wiring the tweeters inline with the speaker? thats the only thing i wasnt sure on
So actually you do. I made a mistake. What I did to rectify this issue was take apart my original speakers, and inside, you'll find a resistor that is hooked on to the tweeter wires. I cut that off and wired it in series with the tweeter. Without it, my tweeter was peaking and distorting at only half volume in the head unit, as opposed to almost at full volume.
So a quick question, I am going to install a 4 channel amp (I already have a aftermarket head unit) so do I run my wires straight into that orange clip which color coordinate with my door speakers?
You have two options:
1. Run brand new wires to every single speaker (way tok much work for what it's worth and I do not recommend this option)
2. Run wires to the front behind the head unit, and connect the wires from the Amp to the wires feeding the speakers that go from the head unit connector to the speakers. Meaning wherever the head unit connects to, tap into those wires.
I appreciate the video and the details. But I'm confused on the plugs. Because the wires you speak of (acc/illumination) does not look like the one I have for the factory plug that goes to the radio (not speaking about the ones that you dragged from the amp)
I don't quite understand your question... I think you're asking where you can get the accessory and illumination wires from?
@@AutoFixYT so my problem is I can't find no where a diagram of the wiring for the radio. If I do it doesn't have the colors that I can see on the car on either side. (Amp or radio) so my question would be where can I find it so I can either depin some wires so then I can plug where they need be. Because my aftermarket harness can reach to the amp but if I plug it straight to those plugs they're the head unit will not turn on. So I'm lost (still a newbie) I understand it easy when it literally is plug and play I have done that a few times but this one got me stumped
@@joserm6823 I think what you need at this point is a multimeter. That way you can test all the wires for power and ground and you'll find them all that way. That's how I did it. I didn't have a wiring diagram.
What size can fit the tweeters for the lexus? i have the same lexus as you
1 inch i think
@@AutoFixYT Thanks much appreciated it!
You didn’t have to add an amp for the door speakers? Just running off of stock wiring is fine?
Your question contains two different topics actually.
1. The amp: I did not add an external amp, the door speakers are powered by the internal amp of the new head unit.
2. The wires: I did not replace the wiring going to the speakers. The stock wires are perfect for almost all applications.
I’m going to install them today and if I don’t want the tweeter do I just leave the wire hanging?
Yes just disconnect it. I recommend having it connected unless you are doing some sort of custom tweeter setup because it gives the music more spacial sound, but it's totally up to you
Hi where did you get the round white spacer. Can you give me the link to buy it. Thanks.
The spacer for the speaker adapter? It came with the speaker adapters, which are linked in the description
Appreciate you, what did you do about the factory subwoofer?
Removed it, wasn't very powerful. I replaced it with a 12" sub in the trunk. I left the grille cover on there to make it look normal but it's really just a hole to the trunk lol
Taking out the factory sub was a pain in the ass for me but just because the car is old shit was breaking left and right
Yeah and you don't have much space to work with
Do I have to disconnect the battery in order to do the speakers or no ?
No you don't
Ok so I was done and setup my decided to swap the front right speaker. I took the clip from the speaker and connected it to 3/4 spares I had. 1 FR 1 FL 1 RL. When I grabbed and connected the rear I believe that may have caused an issue. Now only my sub gets sound and my radio turns on then off in the fully on key position. Any help ? Tips?
Sounds like some sort of protection mode? Amplifiers do that to prevent damage. I've never heard of this issue in this particular scenario. Try unplugging everything you changed and see if it foxes itself. If it does, go back one step at a time and test after every step. Something must be causing the issue.
If the issue is still there after you unplugged everything, there could be some internal damage on the amp/head unit.
Any idea if this would be the same for the toyota aristo?
Yes it should be the same
Would it be possble to use oem headunit with aftermarket amp?
If you're talking about an amp for a subwoofer, yes totally. Super easy, just take the wires that feed the factory sub and connect them to your new amp and sub setup.
If you are talking about an amp for your door speakers.... You might be able to, but you'll have to do some customization. Here's the issue... aftermarket amps are usually fed from the head unit by RCA cables. Your stock head unit sends the signal to the stock amp though 5 individual wires: front left positive, front right positive, rear left positive, rear right positive, and a common ground for all of them.
So... if you can think of a way to make that work, if you wanna experiment and see how you can turn those 5 wires into an RCA output, then it might work! In my opinion it will be harder to do that than to just replace the head unit with an aftermarket unit. Also, aftermarket units have their own amp built in that can typically provide pretty decent power to your door speakers. So there wouldn't be a need for an amp unless you wanna go with a very loud system or if you have component speakers (low, mid, high speakers in every door).
Hope this helps!
If i buy my own amp from JL audio does that mean i have to bypass/remove the factory amp
Yes. Always bypass the factory amp if there is anything else amplifying the sound.
So how do I wire up the factory sub? Or is it already in the harness?
All GS models come with a factory sub. It's on the rear deck behind the rear headrests. It's already wired into the factory harness that comes from the amp or headunit.
great video, i watched this like 1000 times but i recently found out my amp is in the trunk of my car. i have a 2002 gs430 w ML and factory nav, how would i go about wiring it back to the front where the unit is?!
Yes those have the amp in the trunk. You have two options. Either you can find the wiring harness and unravel it and relocate the entire harness inside the dash, or you cut and extend the wires you need from back there to the front.
@@AutoFixYT yeah, i figured the second options was going to be best, where would i get the corresponding wires to splice?
@3uzMarcooFTP Amazon is the best way. Find out what gauge you need (or buy an assortment), get yourself some good heat shrink connectors (either crimp on or the kind that have solder built into them and it melts), and plenty of small zip ties so you can secure your wires properly.
Bro what about the aristos with the A/C controls in the head unit ??? Do I need a new head deck and to find the controls like yours ???
Look through the comments and read the one from "vicbjr". He asked a very similar question and read all my responses to him. That should solve your problem
@@AutoFixYT thank you thank you also one other thing what if I kept all the stock head unit and amp but up dated the speakers and factory sub to new ones would that be just as good ?? Aw I envy electrical guys 😔😔
It would be better but not just as good. But better.
As for electrical... the way I learned was to really think about what I was doing and then dig in to it and learn as you go
I got the adaptors and speakers you got , going to keep the stock head unit but what size is the factory woofer could I find somthing that could go straight into the stock place ? Or need adapter for that to
You can probably find something to go in its place but you will most likely need a different amp. Find out what the RMS wattage is on the factory sub. If the new one is more powerful then
1. You'll overwork the amp a lot and possibly burn it out eventually
2. You will lack bass as it will not be as loud
So i have an 03 with factory amp, and got the bypass harness and a single din HU, i installed everything and got zero power. I did it a couple years ago and just put it on the back burner after not being successful. I need some dang music back and considering tackling it again before I give up pay with my left kidney for a shop to finish it. I dont know why im not getting any power, i matched all wires correctly according to color, and did proper splices, nothing ghetto. I dont know what the issue is and not sure what to do without any kind of factory wiring diagram. Any advice would be so much appreciated. I been riding silent for 2 years + and im so sick of it and cant really afford shop labor. Btw, thanks for putting out a great and detailed install video brother.
Thanks for checking out the video! So I remember thay I had to transfer two wires from the factory amp over to the headunit side. One of then I believe was the accessory power which is what tells the head unit to turn on when you turn the key. Without that wire it doesn't know when start up, even if it has 12v going to it from the battery. It's kind of like a trigger signal to tell it to turn on. Do you have that wire transferred over?
@@AutoFixYT i think that is the problem. After I posted my comment, i rewinded what i missed and seen where you mentioned that in the video. Thanks for the reply and thanks for the help brother. Looks like that will be my next move. 👍👍👍
@@AutoFixYT quick question, you think the factory wires that run to the door speakers will be able to handle 50-100 watts rms? I have a good bang for your buck HU that pushes true 50 watts rms@4ohm and 100rms@2ohm. Looking to upgrade to components in the front and coaxial for rear doors and im hoping oem wires can handle that wattage. Otherwise if not, then this whole process was kind of pointless if i have to upgrade speaker wires to my doors and have to manually run new wires 😓
Haha no problem! Let me know if that fixed your issue, I'm curious now. Hopefully it does!
And yes the factory wires are thick and will definitley handle that power with no issues.
Can any 6.5 inch speakers work with the adapters?
Yes, the adapters are made for 6.5" speakers
maybe this comment comes too late, but in the wiring adapter that is linked to in the description, the smaller connector only has 4 pinns, whilst the one in the lexus has 6. Are those 2 wires not necessary?
The extra two are for the factory subwoofer. You don't need those because the head unit will not be powering them. You need to power it from a separate amp or buy a whole new subwoofer with an amp and wire that in.
My rear speaker & subwoofer option in my stereo setting is blacked out. How do i fix that? I can control and click on every option expect those two.
I have no idea, maybe they're disabled? I know on some head units you can do that.
Anyone know what style adapter would be needed for to power the speaker instead of splicing ?
I'm sure if you look hard enough there will be some adapter plug from stock GS speaker to aftermarket femals spade connector plug. But if not, just cut the wires... I doubt you'll ever wanna go back to stock
I have a 2001 GS with the navagation head unit - Is there a way to add an AUX ? thanks!
If you have a tape deck you can take the whole unit apart and hack into the tape head input. That's what I did before I had this headunit. You can also get adapters that plug into the CD changer plug I believe
@@AutoFixYT okay great to know - i really like my nav unit and dont want to get an aftermarket one. It would be sweet to connect an aux and sub woofers to my stock NAV set up
@@Firenar Totally doable, I didn't have a nav system but I had an aux and an aftermarket sub connected to my factory system. You just have to be knowledgeable and willing to literally hack into things. If you want to message me on Instagram @autofix.cris I can explain more of how I did it on mine
Hello I put in an aftermarket head unit, rear speakers work fine but the front ones don’t work at all. I tried adjusting the balance and fader and still nothing. Any suggestions?
Check your wiring and make sure that it's all routed and connected properly. Also, some head units have the option to turn off one channel completely, so make sure that's not the case for you and the fronts aren't off. But I'd recommend starting with the wires. You can even test the speakers with a 9V battery to make sure they're wired in right. If you don't know how to do it, look it up.
How can I go about adding line out converters? Which wires/ speaker leads should be using? Looking for a wiring diagram on the net without luck
If you're dealing with a stock head unit, the wires coming out of the head unit are already line level. However, they have a vommin ground. So the amp is being fed 5 wires. 4 powers and one ground. It's weird. So then from there it takes the signal, amplifies it, and sends it to the speakers through regular +/- wires. If you want to tap into those, you can, but you're then bringing an amplified level back down to line level, just to re-amplify it.
Out of the head unit it will be difficult to figure out what wire feeds what speaker. The best way, unfortunately, is to de-pin wires and manually connect them one at a time to see which one feeds what speaker. You can also mess with the fader and balance and put a multimeter on them to see what voltage it reads.
Honestly, the easiest way will be to just go aftermarket with the head unit and upgrade sound quality and tunability at the same time.
@@AutoFixYT it’s an aftermarket Tesla style unit and it doesn’t come with any built in amp this is the reason I’m going with line out converters, just not sure on wiring
@carrerag1789 well in that case it should have RCA outputs, doesn't it?
@@AutoFixYT negative no rcas as it has no preamp
What is the color for the ground wire in the oem headunit ?
I don't remember but I think I say it in the video
I'm doing my 1999 Toyota Aristo with sat nav gps and the stock amp is located in the boot. 😢
Yup... you have to either extend wires or unravel the entire harness.
More for gs300
I myself was trying to figger out the audio inputs to the factory amp any help will be greatly appreciated,,Thank you
As far as I know the inputs for the factory amp have 5 wires in total. A common ground, and one wire for each speaker. The amp outputs are the typical Toyota head unit connectors (if you know them you'll recognize them).
You Sir ,in my opinion would have this country running like a well oiled machine Thank you and much appreciation!
I just saw the video now . And I couldnt but to notice a few things.
1. You did not mention anything about the subwoofer, will it be connected or working just fine ? Or it will no longer be connected and there will be no bass ?
2. After this installation, did you notice that maybe your front right door lock is not working ? Because your lock wire was broken when tried to clip it out from the handle .
If you can clarify these i wiould realy appriciate it . Thanks for the details though
Hi,
1. I think I did mentioned the sub, I said I'd be building a separate one and removing the factory one. This procedure will eliminate your factory sub. You can maintain the factory sub if you buy a separate amp for it or for best results remove the factory sub and buy or build a custom aftermarket one to suit your bass needs.
2. Nothing about the door lock stopped wokring and still works to this day.
@@AutoFixYT ok so for my sub i can just keep it but add a new amp for it ? Then i need another detailed video to be able to fully understand it 😅
@@assimanasalsalam1278 Haha well hooking up an new amp to it is just like connecting any aftermarket amp to a sub. There are probably hundred of UA-cam videos on how to do this.
First you wanna figure out your amp power. Look on the speaker and see what it's rated for, as in how many Watts. If you can't find it, look it up, google definitely has the answer for you. Then find the amp you want online and buy it. Then you also need an amp wiring kit. It needs to include a pair of RCA cables, a power cable, a ground cable, a remote turn on cable, and preferably some speaker wire so you can connect the amp to the sub. Then find a place to mount your amp, run all the wires, and start tuning your sub to make it sound like you want it to!
From personal experience, I can tell you that the factory sub isn't great and don't expect much from it haha. It's weak, lacks deep bass, and you can get more out of a cheap pre-built sub that will be less difficult to work with if it comes as a kit with its own amp.
hello im currently doing this on my gs but i have the sat nav unit now i followed your video and gave power to my double din unit it works but the sound doesnt work theres no sound at all??? what do i do?
ive conected all plugs like u did did all harness and nothing
@@fabiopalaio7964 If you bypassed the amp and youre sure that the headunit is feeding the speakers directly, there should be sound. I can't really tell you many details because I have no clue how the navigation is set up in regards to wiring, but looks like you'll have to do some diagnosing. Basically what you want is to make sure that the new head unit is actually sending power to the speakers (often times with aftermarket head units you can disable their internal amp from the settings and the it will only feed the RCAs). And you also want to make sure that you're feeding each speaker individually, directly from the head unit.
hello again ordered a diferent harness has this harness i got of ebay didnt seem right even some conections dont make sence so i think thats where the issue comes from thank you
@@fabiopalaio7964 That'll do it! Hopefully the new harness fixes the problem
Hi ! I have a question for you :) I have a GS300 with Pioneer F920BT after market radio. All my speakers are stock and I have the subwoofer. I connect all the wire, my speakers and radio work well but the Subwoofer do not work. Want can I do to use it again ?
Great question! So the factory sub is actually powered by the factory amp which is separate from the head unit. When you remove the factory head unit however, you also remove the signal source that goes to that amp. Wiring the speakers into the new head unit works bevause the head unit is made to power 4 door speakers, but it's not made to power a subwoofer. So the only way to get that factory sub to work again is to find a way to connect the factory amp to the new head unit (most likely with some signal level converters and other hackery to make it work), or to buy an amp and connect that amp to the sub, and feed it signal from the head unit just like you would if the subwoofer was an aftermarket one.
Having said all that, I recommend just going with an aftermarket subwoofer and removing the stock one only because that's actually easier than trying to match the right amp to the factory sub, and also you can get way better bass from an aftermarket sub.
Hope this helps!
@@AutoFixYT Thanks you a lot ! I will try to do the best ! May be buy a new little amp is cheaper to buy an aftermarker subwoofer
@@AutoFixYTwhich amp and sub combo would you recommend?
@thatschime it really depends... it's almost impossible to recommend a specific one because I don't know what you're trying to achieve and what the rest of your setup is. In order for it to all be in good harmony, you need it to all work together.
I can however tell you what I did. I used the speakers and head unit you see in this video, and for the sub I went the cheap route. I took a shot at the BOSS brand. I got a 12" sub, a monoblock amp of the same brand (I made sure to match the power ratings), and i built a custom enclosure. The enclosure is what really makes it though. So you need to make sure you either know what you're building, or get a pre-built one.
As for brands, if I do anything in the future I'm gonna go with Skar. I don't have any issues with the Boss, but I'd like an upgrade now that I can afford it. That boss sub and amp combo have been bumping strong for years now. I've pushed them to the point where both the amp was very hot and the speaker was warm. Not a single problem.
If you don't wanna go with Skar, go for Rockford Fosgate. Great products, good prices. I have a RF amp and subwoofer in my truck, great product. My brother has a Skar setup in his car, amazing stuff.
As for size and power... that's where you have to decide. I think anything less than an 8 inch will not be big enough for a GS especially at higher volumes. Those cars are very well insulated and the trunk is sealed shut other than the rear deck where the factory sub is (or was). So you need power to push past the seats. I recommend a 10" if you want small, 12" if you want a happy medium, or 15" if you wanna shake some windows lol. My 12" will vibrate the whole interior, just not the glass. These cars are once again, very well insulated and put together.
Power wise, I cannot give you any numbers, just make sure the speaker and the amp match in impedance and RMS power rating. It's good to take a look at the peak watts too, but don't go by that. Go by the RMS output at the speakers resistance.
Get proper wiring, get a good enclosure (you can build it to tune it to peak at certain frequencies) and you'll be all set!
This is a long reply, I know, but I felt like giving the info lol
Hope it helps!
@@AutoFixYT I just bought an aftermarket head unit for my 2001 gs430 and i got everything working but was bummed that the stock subwoofer no longer works so im just looking for something super duper simple just to replace it and have a working one. I don’t really know anything about sound systems and which amp and sub i should get or how i would go about setting everything up, I appreciate your reply though 🙏
You did not show how to wire it up if you where going to use the factory amp. I want to use my factory amp because i have a original subwoofer, that i want to use. Please help me
I didn't and it would have made things a lot more complicated for several reasons.
1. You have to keep the amp and feed power and ground to it, but also you need to now splice the ignition power wire to feed both your aftermaket head unit as well as the amp at the same time. That's easy though.
2. You need to figure out all the wiring going into the amp. Most likely it will have 6 wires that are the inputs for the speakers. One will be the common ground, one for the sub, and one for each door speaker. Not to be co fused with the output wires which will be much thicker but also will be 10 in total. + and - for each speaker including the sub. So you'll have to figure out which wire does what. It is possible however that you'll only have 5 wires. A common ground, and then one for each door speaker. And the amp has built in bypasses that take the low frequencies and only send those to the sub and the rest to the speakers. Idk.
3. Once you have the proper wires located, you need to buy a line level adapter. You cannot connect the RCAs from the back of your new head unit to those wires you located, and you cannot connect the regular speaker wires directly to that either. The RCAs will not have enough power going through them and you'll get a really weak signal, and the speaker wires are already amplified by the head unit so it will be double amplified by the time it gets to the sub, meaning it will be extremely distorted. So you need a line level adapter (I think that's what it's called) and you will have to plug that into the desired speaker wires. Its output wires can then be connected to the input for the factory amp. Those adapters should have level controls on them so you van adjust how much it cuts down on the power flowing through the wires to make it powerful of a signal enough but not too much. So adjust it as needed.
4. Another downside to this is that now you cannot set a crossover frequency for your door speakers and your sub. Since you age pulling a signal off of the door speaker, you can't cut the low frequencies out of them (which you should alwaus do when you have any sort of subwoofer). If you do, you'll have no bass from your sub because it won't get a signal anymore.
Ao overall it's not worth it in my opinion. But if you wanna make it work, go for it. Try it out and let me know how it works! You can also buy a very small aftermarket amp and hook it up to power, ground, remote turn on, and then connect it to the factory sub and use it that way (way easier) or even replace the sub speaker while you're at it in the stock location, or do what I highly recommend and get a nice sub with a box that's gonna be in your trunk and you will not regret it haha
I hope this helped!
Will that dash kit fit in a gs 430 2001?
Yes it should
Re: Replacing the HVAC servo motors comment below, there are videos showing how to clean the encoder wheel, which worked on my GS400. You likely don't have to buy a new servo.
Can you run those speakers with a factory amp and stock head unit?
Yes you can, you just might not get the most out of the speakers since you can't fine tune the sound as well.
@@AutoFixYT thank you very much
do you know how I can put an original nav display unit as a replacement?
You want that instead of the non-nav head unit?
I'd assume that would be a pretty easy swap, you just need all the parts, wires, and brackets necessary to attach the navigation head unit. But I could be totally wrong. I've never looked into it.
@@AutoFixYT exactly. I bought the car GS430 in 2000 and it came with a no touch screen unit like in your video. I never knew this model can get a touch screen unit therefore interested to seek advise. Thanks
@@zerosumgamez In my opinion, adding the factory Nav head unit will not improve anything other than change the looks. The sound will be the same, and the maps will be outdated. If you want touchscreen you're better off with a modern aftermarket double din head unit, or even one of those that has the screen that slides out of it. Up to you. But the factory NAV radio is super outdated at this point and you won't benefit from it except for like I said, it will look different.
Who can help or give me an idea with my GS? I recently got an 05 with factory Nav and i want to put in subs but I notice that the Nav screen also controls the Ac and radio so i dont think I can just throw in a double or single din like the non Nav head units.
There are a couple ways you can add subs. The first way is to remove your factory sub, and use the signal wire to feed an amp (which should have a connector for already amplified signal) and just put all that in the trunk, and you'll be all set. This is the easiest option because you don't mess with any of your existing stuff.
The other option is for you to go to the junkyard, find a non-nav car and take the heater controls out of that and put it in yours. Once you do that you can install an aftermarket head unit and then run your RCAs to your sub in the trunk. This is the most customizable option because now you can tune the sub, replace the door speakers and tune those, etc.
@@AutoFixYT sweet! Appreciate the advise. I'll definitely weigh both options and you answered the question i forgot to ask about being able to swap out to non nav setup. Also would I need to bypass the factory amp if I go with the first option? Thanks alot bro 🙏
No, you do not. Take the wires that plug into your factory sub, and connect them to the amp for your aftermarket sub. I had that setup for a while. Every quality amp should have two inputs. One is the line level input (RCA) and the other one is the amp level input (i think that's what it called) where you can plug in a signal that's already amplified. Then the amp picks up that signal and amplifies it itself.
@@AutoFixYT awesomeness thanks.
Would this work for a 98 Lexus ls400?
Very similar procedure but different center console, and your amp may be in the trunk, so check for that. If it is you have to run wires all the way to the front for the new head unit.
How do you get the door plate for the speaker
It's all in the video / description
Wait so If my head unit has the little knobs I don’t need to bypass/buy the extra cable? It’s basically a plug and play?
Not necessarily. You will always need an adapter harness to use an aftermarket head unit if you don't want to cut up your factory harness.
To know if you have an amp you can either call the dealer and ask them, or the easier way is to look behind the glove box or in the trunk on the passenger's side underneath the side carpeted panel.
@@AutoFixYT I looked through the comments to kinda figure out what I’m doing and I saw that it’s different if you have the little bass, fader etc. knobs. I have a jvc head unit and the wire that came with it, the double din and wire adapter from the description. Do the knobs mean I need to do something specific? I also saw a metal box, which I’m guessing is the amp?, in the trunk passenger side of that means anything
@@phoEnix2o2 Yes that metal box in the trunk is your amp, which you will need to bypass if you are using an aftermarket head unit. You have three options for bypassing that...
1. You peel back the entire harness that leads to that amp and bring the connectors into the dash where it can hook up to the aftermarket head unit (the two connectors are the classic two Toyota connectors, if you know then you'll recognize them. I show them in my video too. Metra makes a nice adapter harness so you don't have to cut the wires)
2. You extend your aftermarket head unit harness to reach all the way into the trunk where the speaker connectors are at that amp
3. You create all new wiring for your head unit with power, ground, illumination, and the 4 speakers. You can take power, acc, and illum. from the existing wires up front, ground can be anywhere on the chassis, and the 4 door speakers can have new wires ran from the head unit harness to each speaker through the doors.
Just as a side note, you will no longer be able to use your factory sub if you go with an aftermarket head unit and bypass the amp, unless you buy a separate amp to power that sub.
Hope this helps!
When buying the wire harness, do I buy just the wire harness or the wire harness+ TA02B wire harness? Hellppppppp
Everything you need is linked in the description of this video.
Where do i connect the ground wire?
For the head unit? You can connect it to the factory harness or to any screw/bolt in the dash
Anyone know why my clock and lights that turn on arent when door opens arent working now?? Which wire powers these so they can work again
Could be that the door latch isn't sensing that the door is open
@@AutoFixYT its all my illumination lights, such as clock and climate control, shifter lights. They were all working fine until i installed aftermarket radio
Maybe the fuse popped?
I have no constant 12v on the blue with yellow stripe gs 300 1998
Then you'll either have to use a multimeter and find your constant 12V, or get yourself a wiring diagram.
For anyone looking, this will NOT work for the Nakamichi head unit. You'll need to bypass the amplifier in the trunk.
How to bypass that
Might sound like a dumb question but would the adapters be the same fitment as the 430s?
Not a dumb question and yes they should be the same!
@@AutoFixYT I asked just cuz I have the GS430 Nd I know it’s pretty much the same platform all around with the 300/400
Nd just wanted to make sure. Thanks for the answer tho really appreciate the help😊
Yeah they're pretty much the same chassis wise. No problem!
@@AutoFixYT thanks again
@@AutoFixYT also another question, how would you rate the sound quality? Is it good or does it sound hollow and would you recommend keeping the tweeters connected or not?
Do you still have the factory radio
No I threw it out
Okay don’t know what I’m doing but at least I know why it ain’t turn on now
Am from suodia arbia
My car gs300 2001 v6
I need sem liek this
What if the climate is in the nav screen
Then you either can't replace it or you get dashboard prices from a non-nav vehicle and convert to buttons.
Интересно я могу через Y провод подключить такой же систему не трогая свой мультивижон
bros on the conckreet
Lol
Bro I got lost on the part when you wire up the harness adapter
It's confusing for sure. It took me a bit to figure it all out. So basically you have to get your accessory power and illumination from the harness that plugs into the factory amp. The rest of it (constant power, ground, speakers) should be plug and play through the original connectors)
@@AutoFixYT So thats basically what the bypass is accomplishing? Taking the accessory and illumination wires and transferring them to the new head unit?
@@danielpichardo2064 No. Bypassing the factory amp makes it so the factory amp doesn't do anything anymore. You want your new head unit to power the speakers by itself, or from your own aftermarket amp. But whatever you do, you can't have it double amplified. So if you don't bypass the factory amp, you end up double amplifying the sound which results in some horrible distortion.
Anyway, part of the bypassing requires you to get the accessory power and illumination from the original head unit harness and attaching it to the harness that is meant to go into the amp (the one with main power, front speakers, antenna, etc.).
Hope this helps!
What amp did you use
I went super extra budget and bought a Boss amp and a Boss sub. I don't really recommend unless you are on a really tight budget but still want bass lol. I also built my own enclosure fod the sub.
Can you link the sub and amp? I don’t wanna spend much either lol, just my speakers suck rn and i had to bypass the amp so i have like 0 bass rn. Thank you for the info
Lol gotcha.
Here is the sub speaker I have: amzn.to/3yWVDO7
Here is the amp I have: amzn.to/3RAdfGO
My brother actually has the same speaker with this amp:amzn.to/3Pf2UxZ and he blew both the speaker and the amp within a month lol he had the amp fixed and the speaker he's just gonna throw out. He bought a Skar instead.
@@AutoFixYT thanks so much man you don’t even know how much you’ve helped. And yea i was gonna go all out and buy skar subs and amp but i just wanna keep a low budget. Hopefully i don’t blow the boss sub but if i do it’s just an excuse to get the good stuff hah
@@AutoFixYT do you think i could buy the 10” sub and put it where the factory sub is since the factory one is a 10”? And still get decent bass. Did you buy a 12”?
Idk if you're gonna change out the head unit might well get a multimedia one with apple carplay and all that. With a headunit like that might well stay with the stock HU cause not too many extra features worth getting on a HU like that just saying and your losing the uniform stock look of the interior too just my opinion. Lol. Maybe some folks don't care about that idk I like the stock look of my is300 wouldn't change it unless I'm going the whole 9 yards lol
This head unit I put in is far better than the stock one. Other than bass, mid, and treble there's no adjustment on the stock head unit. This one has tons of adjustments to make it sound the best it can. Also has bluetooth and can make phone calls. So I'd say it's a pretty big upgrade lol
wat if my amp is in the trunk
Yes on the GS400s it's in the trunk. You'll have to either extend the wiring harness from the trunk to the dash, or see if the wires are running through the dash ans just cut them there. Its tedious. Some older BMWs are like that and the easiest way is sometimes to extend the harness to reach into the dash.
yea i have a 03 gs430 with all the goodys lol the amp died i have no sound
@@CG-wk7sm Oh no! Well you could go to a junkyard and see if you can grab one... or I'll give you mine for free if you pay the shipping lol
Other than that, if you go aftermarket then you're gonna have to extend the harness
@@AutoFixYT hell yea ill pay for shipping lol id really appreciate that is it the same amp? since the models are different..... SenT yOu a msg on Instagram
Haha ok let me go check
This ain't a DIY job for most owners
Depends how much knowledge and ambition you have. It's doable if you take your time and do your research. After all, that's the best way to learn in my opinion.
Molesting a Lexus in an hour. Good walkthrough though.
Lol end result was so worth it!
this is ridiculous, why would you install mid speakers with extra tweeters...
Because you can always disable the tweeters that come with the speakers so you only keep the ones that are up top :)
@@AutoFixYT doesn't make sense to pay extra for that what you wouldn't use, I recommend buying mid speakers from Eton it's perfect quality and price ratio... And using a screwdriver to remove the panel is a crime :D
@@wilius999 Everyone has their thing. I plan on potentially further customizing my system with Rockford Fosgate speakers so that's why I went with them. In the future I might replace the 3 way speakers for some component speakers and replace the factory tweeters with better ones. Also on my factory tweeters I added a resistor in line to lower the volume on them so they can be more of a slight add-on as opposed to a main tweeter.
@@AutoFixYT What do you mean by the term "in line"? Would it be "in line" on the positive or negative wire? The resistor value?
Doesn't matter which side, the speakers get AC current so adding a resistor on either sides has the same result.