You absolutely assed that...You are so lucky that you didn't fry the IC by putting it in the wrong way!! Use the notch to make sure that you put them in the right way! Don't use the text on the chip! Nice video though, it was entertaining
For future references, whenever you install a chip, NEVER depend on the text or writing on the chip to determine the chip's proper polarity. On every chip socket, there should be a "NOTCH" to indicate proper polarity. There should also be a notch or dot indentation on the actual chip as well. Always install the new chip with the chip's notch/dot indentation matching the notch on the chip socket. You are very lucky you didn't fry your new chip and end up with a nose full of ozone smoke - lol. I've fried a couple of chips this way during the very early parts of my learning curve - lol. Much love to you bro and keep fixing shit. :)
I was cringing when you turned it on with it in the wrong way, but luckily it worked out well. As others probably stated, you have to match the notch on the chip to the notch on the base.
flynnz yeah it's funny I originally removed the chip I using a chip removal tool which ended up leaving a nick on the socket on both sides so that I couldn't really identify which side was the original notch lol
JEDI LENNON!! == 1.) What is the start and end address range for the TIA? 2.) What is the start and end address range for the PIA? 3.) What is the start and end address range for the Games ROM chip? 4.) What is the start and end address range for the Sound RIOT chip? 5.) is it a ROM chip or a PROM chip that are inside the game cartridge? 6.) A PIA chip is a RAM chip that has built in ADC/DAC interfacing? A PIA is not a decoder or a multipler chip , its a RAM chip with I/0 interfacing ADC/DAC converters built into the RAM locations?
Oh man you were so lucky that you didn't murder death kill that poor TIA chip and they're getting really hard to get hold of now too. I won't repeat the advice that others have given, as I know this was quite a while ago and I'm sure you know not to do it that way again, but I will say that it's a really good idea to take pictures before removing anything. That way when you go to replace anything, you've got a visual reference of which way around they go. On the plus side though, I'm really happy that you got to play Asteroids again. It's one of those awesome games that I'm truly awful at, lol.
yea, the writing on the chip means nothing. All chips have an index mark that identifies location of pin 1 on the chip. so locate pin 1 before removing it. Then when you install new one line up pin 1 on new chip to match
If you open up an atari you should install a HDMI upscaling device since you have plenty of room inside the heavy sixer and all you need to do is minor soldering, taping into the dc current ,gluing the hdmi box, removing the coaxial and puting in a new coaxial output.
The Atari had a lower powered variation (6507) of the dominant chip of the 8-bit era the MOS Technology 6502 chip. The 6502 powered the Apple II, VIC 20 and NES game system and the more powerful variant 6510 was used in the Commodore 64/128.
@@GORF_EMPIRE Similarly, the 6510 in the C64 was also basically just a customised variant of the 6502 specifically for use in the C64, which Commodore could get away with since they had their own chip fabrication. It's just got extra 8-bit IO. Interestingly I think the version in the NES was also a custom 6502 variant. If memory serves (and it may not) Nintendo dumped floating point functionality to include on-chip audio generation.
When i haven't played my 2600 in a while (Light 6-er model if your curious), IM always disapointed by how boring some games get over half an hour. But im a smash 4 addict. Gonna have something to do with it :/
Once i use my avometer without turning it on I take some time to chick about my connections , then i note that my avo power needs to turn on A true story
Yes ICs have a certain orientation you look for the pin 1 indicator before you remove the old IC.
You absolutely assed that...You are so lucky that you didn't fry the IC by putting it in the wrong way!!
Use the notch to make sure that you put them in the right way! Don't use the text on the chip!
Nice video though, it was entertaining
+motiondynamics2010 glad you enjoyed it.
you could try changing the main axial cap, film caps and ceramics on the Vader
I get horizontal scrambled view of a game but if I turn it on and off a bunch of times the picture will correct it self. What could that be?
For future references, whenever you install a chip, NEVER depend on the text or writing on the chip to determine the chip's proper polarity. On every chip socket, there should be a "NOTCH" to indicate proper polarity. There should also be a notch or dot indentation on the actual chip as well. Always install the new chip with the chip's notch/dot indentation matching the notch on the chip socket. You are very lucky you didn't fry your new chip and end up with a nose full of ozone smoke - lol. I've fried a couple of chips this way during the very early parts of my learning curve - lol. Much love to you bro and keep fixing shit. :)
Not really "polarity", it's called a pin 1 indicator.
Hello, thank you for the video. Can you share the part number of the chip please
I was cringing when you turned it on with it in the wrong way, but luckily it worked out well. As others probably stated, you have to match the notch on the chip to the notch on the base.
flynnz yeah it's funny I originally removed the chip I using a chip removal tool which ended up leaving a nick on the socket on both sides so that I couldn't really identify which side was the original notch lol
eek, well thankfully it all worked out. Nothing more satisfying than bringing an old console back to life.
flynnz indeed!
JEDI LENNON!!
== 1.) What is the start and end address range for the TIA?
2.) What is the start and end address range for the PIA?
3.) What is the start and end address range for the Games ROM chip?
4.) What is the start and end address range for the Sound RIOT chip?
5.) is it a ROM chip or a PROM chip that are inside the game cartridge?
6.) A PIA chip is a RAM chip that has built in ADC/DAC interfacing? A PIA is not a decoder or a multipler chip , its a RAM chip with I/0 interfacing ADC/DAC converters built into the RAM locations?
Oh man you were so lucky that you didn't murder death kill that poor TIA chip and they're getting really hard to get hold of now too. I won't repeat the advice that others have given, as I know this was quite a while ago and I'm sure you know not to do it that way again, but I will say that it's a really good idea to take pictures before removing anything. That way when you go to replace anything, you've got a visual reference of which way around they go. On the plus side though, I'm really happy that you got to play Asteroids again. It's one of those awesome games that I'm truly awful at, lol.
yea, the writing on the chip means nothing. All chips have an index mark that identifies location of pin 1 on the chip. so locate pin 1 before removing it. Then when you install new one line up pin 1 on new chip to match
I miss that atari 2600... Where I can buy it.. From which site?
Ebay????????
More like 35 years before you posted this.
If you open up an atari you should install a HDMI upscaling device since you have plenty of room inside the heavy sixer and all you need to do is minor soldering, taping into the dc current ,gluing the hdmi box, removing the coaxial and puting in a new coaxial output.
Not a fan of upscaling since it results input lag. But thanks for the tip anyway I bet it looks great!
@@JediLennon Well I think atari 2600 is better than xbox
The Atari had a lower powered variation (6507) of the dominant chip of the 8-bit era the MOS Technology 6502 chip. The 6502 powered the Apple II, VIC 20 and NES game system and the more powerful variant 6510 was used in the Commodore 64/128.
The power is the same. It's the amount of memory they can address. The 6507 is only 8k wide. The others are 64k wide.
@@GORF_EMPIRE Similarly, the 6510 in the C64 was also basically just a customised variant of the 6502 specifically for use in the C64, which Commodore could get away with since they had their own chip fabrication. It's just got extra 8-bit IO.
Interestingly I think the version in the NES was also a custom 6502 variant. If memory serves (and it may not) Nintendo dumped floating point functionality to include on-chip audio generation.
@@TheTurnipKing Correct but I don't know about the floating point for audio thing.
The glitched screen looks like some kind of creepypasta version of Asteroids to me, not gonna lie.
Dont forget to jam in a TRS-1 2450 and dump the 7805.
When i haven't played my 2600 in a while (Light 6-er model if your curious), IM always disapointed by how boring some games get over half an hour. But im a smash 4 addict. Gonna have something to do with it :/
mine is a clone and it has 48 pin chip,any ideas where to find one?
+tsiris1980 not off hand. Good luck though!
Your Atari is AOAC (Atari On A Chip) there is even a different 40 pin chip all in one as well .
Thanks for the info my friends grandpa wants me to help fix it since I know how to do such things very helpful
+Poopy Freeman glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
My immediate assumption is some kind of RAM error, tbh, since the game appears to be playing fine behind the corruption.
Not a bad video but your TV makes that noise because it's samsung. I own multiple Samsung TV's they all make that noise
Yes
le démontage au couteau à beurre est très important :)
Once i use my avometer without turning it on
I take some time to chick about my connections , then i note that my avo power needs to turn on
A true story
"For 13 bucks..."
*$14.
thanks I can't wait to fix my thanks for your video
+Cristian Hernandez my pleasure!!!
Thankyou very much
Nice video very useful!
+youtupedia1 thank you! I'm glad it was helpful!
Great vid
Sad.
awesome:)
Worst tech ever
I.love Atari 2600
Ian Pakistani
Yes sir very good video is like