Very Very cool! you have done an excellent demonstration on your project, set-up block work, repetitive jigging and checking work. I enjoyed the whole video in one sitting. thank you for the tag Crispin ;{)------
Hi - very well explained and I've learned a lot. I recently machined a 3 inch long cylinder liner for a hit and miss engine using a boring bar. I knew I was pushing my luck and I ended up with 2 thou runout along it's length. Not happy so I've just made a Hemingway between centres boring bar. You video will certainly help me get the cylinder accurately set up prior to machining. Cheers Andrew
This stuff is amazing. It makes you appreciate just how great an accomplishment full sized steam locomotives were, especially in their age. Can you imagine the tooling they had to make and deal with to create these things? What's even more amazing is all the steam engines that people have kept running. The Hook Norton Brewery still uses a hundred year old steam engine for it's machinery, and those few refurbished locomotives still travelling the rails. Anyway love your channel, keep up the good work.
Another very instructive video that well illustrates a method that was more common when model engineers did not have the means to purchase or access to milling machines. And...as has been pointed out...in some ways...a superior approach. This is also a good example of the importance of establishing functional datums and then paying close attention to them whilst designing, constructing, and setting up the fixtures as well as the in-process inspections. Also...a nice illustration of the flexibility offered by longitudinal cross-slide t-slots. I look forward to the next step.
Your videos are very well done and your explanations are so clear, articulate, and thourough. It's nice to see someone else in the steam hobby that's young and able to be an ambassador to the hobby. Listening to you also reminds me of my granddad haha.
You go to a lot of trouble to make sure things are bang on and it reflects in your work. I wish I could do the same. The quality of tutorials also are excellent. Thank you for sharing.
I have been looking forward to seeing this, and enjoyed it. I hear the rain in the background, while we endure 40+ degree heat. Keep the videos coming. Thanks Crispin.
Thank you for uploading all these workshop videos'. I am 67 and have never made anything, but I am now very enthusiastic to get started on model engineering. Very clear explanations, Thank You.
Crispin. Wonderful explanation of what at first glance could be perceived as very complex, Loved the use of the Myford instead of boring in the mill - very simply shows how versatile and accurate, with some judicious set up, the lathe can be. Looking forward to the next instalment....
Excellent demonstration of the fixtureing set up for boring on the lathe. Happy Holidays to you and yours, looking forward to many more demonstrations of your skills. Thank You
Crispin A wonderful demonstration of how custom part-making requires custom toolmaking. Thanks for showing the details of the setup and the checking of measurements before the final boring passes. To the untrained eye it might seem an overly complex and tedious process, but I think you showed very well how a methodical approach and careful verification can achieve outstanding results on a small home workshop lathe. Regards from Oz.
Nice way to measure the position of the bore. I have a slip gauge set but often forget to use them like this. I like your explanations too. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Thanks for another great video! I learned a few new things while watching this video that I hope to use in my shop. Now I wish my lathe had T-slots on the cross slide. Cheers, Chris
Hi i thoroughly enjoy your videos Crispin very methodical and the boring bar seems to work a treat well done not a machinist but ever since i did a bit of lathwork in college many many years ago iv had an interest in it but wood work is what i do now! but like to watch guys like your good self so thanks .
The real fun of building a model from kit or scratch is the journey through the process, not the final product. When all the processes are done properly the finished product will be completed to a very high standard.
Superb work without question. Way beyond my capability. I'll just say one thing though, its usually better and easier to finish machine an OD to suit a bore.
First comment: How boring!... Get it.... Boring :-) Sorry.... I do want to say, your videos a really neat. I look forward to viewing the rest of your uploads! Good work and thanks!
Have some catching up to do here, just realized that I didn't have the box checked for receiving notification of your new UA-cam postings. Was wondering why I hadn't heard anything...doh!
Very nice machining and great ingenuity regarding the set up and measurement of the parts. Only question I have is why you left the final sizing of the cylinder liners until they were in place in the block if you were going to bore the cylinder block assembly under size? I can see why if it was a 0.0015" under size interference fit. Very nice work keep up the good work.
well done i really enjoyed your video and the information you show was excellent. i see you are using SEA do you switch back and forth or was that just for us guys on the other side of the pond? keep up the good work
+mog5858 All the drawings of these model locos and model engineering projects tend to be in Imperial. Plus all my machines and a lot of my measuring equipment is imperial.
Very nice serie. The way you use the gauge blocks is new for me and very interesting. One remark is regarding using epoxy in a high temperature environment: are these two compatible? Epoxy does give way at high temp?
Do you have any concearn about the temperature of the steam causing the loctite to release? According to the steam tables anything north of 150psi steam is going to make the loctite release. Very nice setup for repeating on the boring.
+bcbloc02 Should be fine - the temp of the cylinder will depend on the "mean" pressure throughout the whole cycle - the temp of the steam goes down rapidly as the piston moves down, its work is done, and exhaust valve opens (I think!)
Having watched all your videos, I wonder if there may be a problem with your wheel bearing design. Yes, the weight of the locomotive will be on the upper face so that's where you have your phosphor bronze. However, won't there also be a lot of force pushing and pulling, constantly changing direction from the push and pull of the cylinders? Guessing that the cylinders have an area of about 4 sq inches, and the steam is at around 80 psi, that's potentially 320 pounds of force constantly pushing and pulling forwards and backwards on those bearings. Do you think that may be an issue? I really don't know, you are the expert here and I'm just a viewer :)
+radbot1 Hi, yes there will, however the theory with full size locos is that during normal running, the pushing and pulling causes the main load to swing between 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock in the bore. The bores on mine are made 0.0015 bigger than the axel so that it shouldn't contact the steel and only the bronze.
Very meticulous work on your lathe set-up, but can I ask why you didn't do the boring on a mill? Is it, that you didn't think you could get the accuracy that you got with the lathe set-up?
+Fred Newman Hi I don't have any boring equipment for the mill but I know it is a common method. I think the lathe set up I have is more rigid as the bar is supported at both ends. Particularly for the small bore I think a boring head may be a bit more likely to flex. Also the lathe set up is good where repeated loading and loading of the parts is necessary.
+Fred Newman Between centers boring will alway's give a straight bore, or at least as straight as the part alignment and lathe's way's are. And the bore will be consistent for size end to end. The boring bar is supported at both ends so is far more rigid than a vertical mill and boring head setup would be. George H. Thomas "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual explains it far better than I have here, as well as giving an excellent design for a between centers boring bar.
I agree! After reading Geo Thomas' explanation, I became a convert to boring between centers! A slotted cross slide helps (it's indispensable actually)
LOL, so did I, and his writing about it was the main reason I wouldn't do without a tee slotted cross slide when I started looking for my last lathe. Both of Georges books should be on everyone's book shelf no matter what there skill level is.
Turning Point I agree! I had to buy a T-slot cross slide casting (that I still have to machine yet) for a South Bend 9A so I can use this method. Probably the first project utilizing this method will be the boring George Thomas' Versatile Dividing Head!
Hi, Started machining at school, Then when I was 16 I started an apprenticeship at Rolls-Royce. Now I'm 20 and having finished my Apprenticeship I work on a grinding machine making HP turbine blades for RR jet engines.
Great video Crispin, I very much enjoy your teaching style.
Very Very cool! you have done an excellent demonstration on your project, set-up block work, repetitive jigging and checking work. I enjoyed the whole video in one sitting. thank you for the tag Crispin ;{)------
Hi - very well explained and I've learned a lot. I recently machined a 3 inch long cylinder liner for a hit and miss engine using a boring bar. I knew I was pushing my luck and I ended up with 2 thou runout along it's length. Not happy so I've just made a Hemingway between centres boring bar. You video will certainly help me get the cylinder accurately set up prior to machining.
Cheers
Andrew
This stuff is amazing. It makes you appreciate just how great an accomplishment full sized steam locomotives were, especially in their age. Can you imagine the tooling they had to make and deal with to create these things? What's even more amazing is all the steam engines that people have kept running. The Hook Norton Brewery still uses a hundred year old steam engine for it's machinery, and those few refurbished locomotives still travelling the rails. Anyway love your channel, keep up the good work.
Another very instructive video that well illustrates a method that was more common when model engineers did not have the means to purchase or access to milling machines. And...as has been pointed out...in some ways...a superior approach. This is also a good example of the importance of establishing functional datums and then paying close attention to them whilst designing, constructing, and setting up the fixtures as well as the in-process inspections. Also...a nice illustration of the flexibility offered by longitudinal cross-slide t-slots. I look forward to the next step.
I've just come across your videos, it's just like reading a good book.............I can't leave them alone!
Your videos are very well done and your explanations are so clear, articulate, and thourough. It's nice to see someone else in the steam hobby that's young and able to be an ambassador to the hobby. Listening to you also reminds me of my granddad haha.
novel fixture for line boring the cylinder! very impressive
That’s a fantastic set up , very well thought out that Moore + Wright mic’s a beauty
Very nice video. I greatly enjoy that you explain your setups and how you got there. Thank you!
Joe
You go to a lot of trouble to make sure things are bang on and it reflects in your work.
I wish I could do the same.
The quality of tutorials also are excellent.
Thank you for sharing.
It's so much fun watching someone do such expert work.
Thanks,
John
I have been looking forward to seeing this, and enjoyed it. I hear the rain in the background, while we endure 40+ degree heat. Keep the videos coming. Thanks Crispin.
Thank you for uploading all these workshop videos'.
I am 67 and have never made anything, but I am now very enthusiastic to get started on model engineering.
Very clear explanations, Thank You.
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Get stuck in!
Crispin. Wonderful explanation of what at first glance could be perceived as very complex,
Loved the use of the Myford instead of boring in the mill - very simply shows how versatile and accurate, with some judicious set up, the lathe can be.
Looking forward to the next instalment....
Enjoyed the explanation of the set-up. Very nice work. Professional. Your running explanations were helpful and informative. Great video.
Just found this as a recommendation from the UP Big Boy restoration in the US. You truly are an artist thank you for insight and teaching.
Thanks for your comment. Where did he recommend me? Cheers.
An excellent demonstration of craftsmanship. Many thanks.
Quite excellent. This has been the best film I have seen this Christmas! Keep up this fantastic work and I will look forward to the next stage.
Excellent video Crispin, thanks for sharing your skills, look forward to next installment, Laurie
Excellent demonstration of the fixtureing set up for boring on the lathe. Happy Holidays to you and yours, looking forward to many more demonstrations of your skills. Thank You
I appreciate young men like for your work ethic.Lou
Crispin A wonderful demonstration of how custom part-making requires custom toolmaking. Thanks for showing the details of the setup and the checking of measurements before the final boring passes. To the untrained eye it might seem an overly complex and tedious process, but I think you showed very well how a methodical approach and careful verification can achieve outstanding results on a small home workshop lathe. Regards from Oz.
Interesting how you are so comfortable with both Met and Imp measuring.
Nice way to measure the position of the bore. I have a slip gauge set but often forget to use them like this. I like your explanations too. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Very elaborate setup! Thanks for showing. Cheers.
Thanks for another great video! I learned a few new things while watching this video that I hope to use in my shop. Now I wish my lathe had T-slots on the cross slide. Cheers, Chris
Thank you so much. It fill in what I was missing to complete my project and what I need.
Hi i thoroughly enjoy your videos Crispin very methodical and the boring bar seems to work a treat well done
not a machinist but ever since i did a bit of lathwork in college many many years ago iv had an interest in it but wood work is what i do now! but like to watch guys like your good self so thanks .
beautiful work Cripin you are truly a machinist to be proud of thanks
You're some bloke,you.................Very nice work indeed.
Excellent! Thank you for showing the measuring techniques.
JEEZ Mr Crispin... even your cardboard cutouts are a better fit than I can machine too.. ;)
Real nice job on the line boring setup...
Awesome video! I'm looking forward to seeing how you create the steam passages between the valve and piston bores.
Excellent work as usual.
Another super descriptive video. Very professional as usual. My very best wishes to you & your family for Christmas & New Year. Ron C.
Nice method of measuring the center of the bore. Hope you enjoy the holidays.
Inspirational and instructional videos - thanks.
Feeling really tired I was going to go to bed, then I came to your channel. That was probably about 3 hours ago! Subscribed :)
Hey I like your videos wery much .allways learn something new
Best Regards Anders South part of Sweden.
Hey I like your videos wery much .allways learn something new
Best Regards Anders South part of Sweden
I saw your 2019 video but I was surprised to return from 2019 too 2015. that was a surprise.
The real fun of building a model from kit or scratch is the journey through the process, not the final product. When all the processes are done properly the finished product will be completed to a very high standard.
Very nice work
Excellent work. Subscribed.
Keep up the good work. It's coming along well!
Da iawn!
Extremely helpful. Thank you.
Superb work without question. Way beyond my capability. I'll just say one thing though, its usually better and easier to finish machine an OD to suit a bore.
❤ IT. ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO !!
Magistral!
Nice work!
I've missed your absence. Great setups on the lathes. would like to know why you ground your tip on the boring bar as you did, very unique.
According to the late great George Thomas, line boring is the most accurate way to achieve parallel straight bores.
Superb work! keep it up!
First comment: How boring!... Get it.... Boring :-) Sorry.... I do want to say, your videos a really neat. I look forward to viewing the rest of your uploads! Good work and thanks!
Great video thanks for uploading, I could do with a mate like you to help with my traction engine 😉
1:48 ....known as Inline boring, at least in the U.S. I've seen Keith Fenner do it often.
Have some catching up to do here, just realized that I didn't have the box checked for receiving notification of your new UA-cam postings. Was wondering why I hadn't heard anything...doh!
This is great!
At 12:30 should really be done on granite or a better surface
Or failing that the best surface you have available to you at the time...........which happed to be what I used!
Very nice machining and great ingenuity regarding the set up and measurement of the parts. Only question I have is why you left the final sizing of the cylinder liners until they were in place in the block if you were going to bore the cylinder block assembly under size? I can see why if it was a 0.0015" under size interference fit. Very nice work keep up the good work.
well done i really enjoyed your video and the information you show was excellent. i see you are using SEA do you switch back and forth or was that just for us guys on the other side of the pond? keep up the good work
+mog5858 All the drawings of these model locos and model engineering projects tend to be in Imperial. Plus all my machines and a lot of my measuring equipment is imperial.
Very nice serie. The way you use the gauge blocks is new for me and very interesting. One remark is regarding using epoxy in a high temperature environment: are these two compatible? Epoxy does give way at high temp?
Do you have any concearn about the temperature of the steam causing the loctite to release? According to the steam tables anything north of 150psi steam is going to make the loctite release. Very nice setup for repeating on the boring.
+bcbloc02 Hi
I did consider it but the loctite is rated at 180c + and the cylinders shouldn't get any hotter than about 130c
+bcbloc02 Should be fine - the temp of the cylinder will depend on the "mean" pressure throughout the whole cycle - the temp of the steam goes down rapidly as the piston moves down, its work is done, and exhaust valve opens (I think!)
nice work Crispin was that an old centre drill you used as the cutter
Great video.
Your lathe runs smooth as silk. What sized motor do you have on it? (I have the same lathe).
Any reason why the cylinders weren't done as an interference fit?
Having watched all your videos, I wonder if there may be a problem with your wheel bearing design. Yes, the weight of the locomotive will be on the upper face so that's where you have your phosphor bronze. However, won't there also be a lot of force pushing and pulling, constantly changing direction from the push and pull of the cylinders? Guessing that the cylinders have an area of about 4 sq inches, and the steam is at around 80 psi, that's potentially 320 pounds of force constantly pushing and pulling forwards and backwards on those bearings. Do you think that may be an issue? I really don't know, you are the expert here and I'm just a viewer :)
+radbot1 Hi, yes there will, however the theory with full size locos is that during normal running, the pushing and pulling causes the main load to swing between 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock in the bore. The bores on mine are made 0.0015 bigger than the axel so that it shouldn't contact the steel and only the bronze.
+MrCrispin Cool! Thanks for the reply and good luck with the build :)
Why didn't you make the block of cast iron? You then wouldn't require a liner.
Good question. I think if I were to do it again I would consider doing it that way.
Great work Crispin. When is the next video going online?
+Jonny Stevenson If I don't manage one before Christmas it will be early in the new year
+MrCrispin96 great stuff and I'll look forward to it. Will you be manufacturing the boiler from scratch?
Very meticulous work on your lathe set-up, but can I ask why you didn't do the boring on a mill? Is it, that you didn't think you could get the accuracy that you got with the lathe set-up?
+Fred Newman
Hi
I don't have any boring equipment for the mill but I know it is a common method. I think the lathe set up I have is more rigid as the bar is supported at both ends. Particularly for the small bore I think a boring head may be a bit more likely to flex. Also the lathe set up is good where repeated loading and loading of the parts is necessary.
+Fred Newman Between centers boring will alway's give a straight bore, or at least as straight as the part alignment and lathe's way's are. And the bore will be consistent for size end to end. The boring bar is supported at both ends so is far more rigid than a vertical mill and boring head setup would be. George H. Thomas "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual explains it far better than I have here, as well as giving an excellent design for a between centers boring bar.
I agree! After reading Geo Thomas' explanation, I became a convert to boring between centers! A slotted cross slide helps (it's indispensable actually)
LOL, so did I, and his writing about it was the main reason I wouldn't do without a tee slotted cross slide when I started looking for my last lathe. Both of Georges books should be on everyone's book shelf no matter what there skill level is.
Turning Point
I agree! I had to buy a T-slot cross slide casting (that I still have to machine yet) for a South Bend 9A so I can use this method. Probably the first project utilizing this method will be the boring George Thomas' Versatile Dividing Head!
At which point do you say "Ach I f:::ed that?
Model making another dieing art, I like your skills, what background are you, do you mind me asking?
Hi, Started machining at school, Then when I was 16 I started an apprenticeship at Rolls-Royce. Now I'm 20 and having finished my Apprenticeship I work on a grinding machine making HP turbine blades for RR jet engines.
Stephen Hodge
which type of loctite do you use?
+airwood99 638 Retaining Compound
Bobby
Hey I like your videos wery much .allways learn something new
Best Regards Anders South part of Sweden.