RV FRESH WATER TANK 👍 FANTASTIC SANITIZING DRAIN HACK 👍
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- Make draining your fresh water tank AFTER SANITIZING way EASY.
This method will leave your RV site dry & it's better for the environment. This is a real game changer.
There’s a much better way to dispose the bleach & rinse water than draining it out on the ground. Think of it this way…..once I drain all the bleach water out of my fresh water tank and then do a rinse, that’s about 150 gallons of water that just drains onto the ground. Your amount of water may vary. But depending on where your located at the time you sanitize, it can and often does create a big muddy mess for days all around the RV. There’s just a better way to do this to make it easier, cleaner and better for the environment. I’m going to show you a real neat HACK I came up with that makes draining your fresh water tank after sanitizing a real game changer.
I know some of you think using your fresh water tank is not safe to drink or cook with, so you carry toxic plastic water bottles or carry big jugs of water, or perhaps a Berkey water filter or maybe an under the sink filter that you use for drinking and cooking. If you want to keep practicing those methods, I mean that’s fine with me, but it’s just not necessary. All that other stuff takes up more room, adds more weight to your RV, creates more plastic that ends up in land fills and we don’t need more of that. If you filter your water properly BEFORE it comes into the RV or fill up your fresh water tank, and then sanitize your entire fresh water system once a year, using your fresh water tank all the time-for everything-is totally safe. Putting these practices into place, you’ll have safe, good tasting water throughout your RV all the time.
This custom adapter I made will work on just about every RV fresh water tank. Your tank drain will obviously be located in a different place than mine, but the application is still the same.
WANT TO MAINTAIN AN AIR GAP FOR ADDED SAFETY:
If you’re not comfortable snapping on a sewer hose extension-on tight-onto this new adapter I’ve installed & you’d like to maintain an air gap between the sewer hose & the fresh water tank drain line……use 3 - electrical ties and cinch the hose up to where there is a slight air gap.This will allow the sewer hose to hang BELOW the fresh water tank drain line-maintaining an air gap between the two. Now you’ll still be able to drain the fresh water tank after sanitizing without dumping it out on the ground, making a big mess and hurting the environment.
If you prefer to talk to my water supply vendor before buying any equipment, just call them @ 602-625-1875 and ask for Justin or Dave. They're great folks and a family operated business. Also, please be sure to tell them that you watched Martin's RVstreet video on youtube and you need some help setting up your water system correctly. If you mention my name I will receive a small commission from your purchase. It's a great way to say thank Martin for making these video's and helping the RV community. 👍
HOW I FILTER & SOFTEN OUR WATER BEFORE IN ENTERS THE RV.
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NOTE: The sealants, black sewer hose adapter & 10' sewer extension hose is also in my Amazon Store.
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DISCLAIMER:
We are in no way experts or professional mechanics. But being a journeyman millwright for years & being EX Military, has proven to be very helpful in my lifetime learning how to care for & maintain all sorts of machinery & equipment like: helicopters, airplanes, tanks, motorcycles & many types of other vehicles. That, along with 18 months preparing & upgrading our RV before we went full time, & now traveling for several years has gained us a lot of knowledge. Regardless of what we recommend, consult a professional if you're unsure about working on your RV. Work you perform or products you purchase based on any information we provide is at your own risk. - Навчання та стиль
Wow. You "ARE" the GO TO MAN of RV REPAIRS & IDEAS. Love watching anyone who knows & loves what their doing.
What a greater way to clean out your sewer lines before storing them when you want to drop some water weight before leaving.
You are a great teacher, I love rewatching your RV videos, RIP Martin!!!!
I didn't want to leave a muddy mess either before leaving... so I physically held the sewer hose up with my God given strength for 15 minutes to drain a 60 gallon tank of bleachy water...all the while, thinking of a way to place a sewer hose connector under the drain....this was 3 weeks ago.(Aug 1 2023) Now I know how! Thank You Martin!
Good morning guys. I just finished binge watching your videos. Love them ALL!… I have few questions, if I may. 1) How do you find these camping grounds allowing you to do oil changes, painting and washing? Do you call them and ask before booking? 2) Why didn’t you choose Magna Shades for your windshield and windows covers? I watch tons of UA-camrs as you can imagine and you often use different brands that most others suggest. I find that very refreshing and I don’t know why but I feel that, just like the RV Geeks, I can trust you with your recommandations. Finally, they might not be your most popular videos but please do more food preps, cooking and storage like your spaghetti sauce video. I might not do the same recipe but I sure take the tips for cooking time and storage. I really enjoy your channel. I hope you the best.
Thank you Michel
1) I pick my CG's carefully to do any work. Some you can get away with it some not. But we now have a permanent RV site that we bought in RGV where we spend our winters. I do all my maintenance and big jobs down there now
2) We ALWAYS book way in advance
3) Magna Shades are much more expensive, are too bulky to store and weigh much more. I roll up my shades and store them in a 4" PVC tube in the storage bay
4) We tried doing food prep videos but they take a lot of time to do, they never got any traction and Joanie doesn't like being on camera
Some will let you do it for a small fee. Just ask.
I need to Martinize my fresh water discharge as I sanitize my water tank multiple times per year. I travel north and south a couple times in the winter and need to winterize at least per year. Thanks for this hack.
You are very welcome 👍
You are such a hard working , go getter , get the job done RIGHT kinda man!!! Love your ingenious ideas, will use when I get my first LGM travel trailer at age I actually love to do these things, reminds me of my late father. Thanks Martin for all you do for us all.
When cutting the sewer connection I think I would have left two tabs by cutting from two sides and not cutting through the fitting. Using some heat fold the tabs so you can use fasteners for extra strength and not rely on the sealant alone.
I had a similar problem after several trips back to lowes and returns lowes is closer than home depot my ideas were similar but sucked thank you for sharing what worked for you i am going to do what you did. racked my brain and lost sleep trying to come up with idea thank you michael sherman
“Roughed up and smooth” 4:22
I guess that’s like heat it up nice and cold. 🔥❄️.
What a great idea! Thanks for showing us this tip. Love all your videos, you show us how easy it is to keep our RVs in great condition.
*If you want to maintain an Air Gap for added safety*
If you’re not comfortable snapping on a sewer hose extension-on tight-onto this new adapter I’ve installed and you’d like to maintain an air gap between the sewer hose and the fresh water tank drain line to add a safety feature……use 4 electrical ties.
On the end of your sewer hose, you have 4 grip tabs to help you twist the sewer hose into place. Drill a small hole into each of those tabs. (You’ll still be able to use your sewer hose like you normally would afterwards so no worries there)
Then thread the electrical ties thru those 4 tabs and make a 4” loop on each electrical tie. Then take those 4 loops to hang the sewer hose from the claws on my new adapter. This will allow the sewer hose to hang BELOW the fresh water tank drain line-maintaining an air gap between the two. Now you’ll still be able to drain the fresh water tank after sanitizing without dumping it out on the ground, making a big mess and hurting the environment.
I think everyone's knee-jerk reaction is to say no to any water-sewer connection, and rightly so. That is the correct initial reaction everyone should have. But after thinking about it, there really is no "connection" the way you have it designed. Your modification above is even better. Also, did you look at the line that was protruding out of the bottom of the coach? It was black with road grime. Not at all like the "sterile" freshwater input ports. The concern is much ado about nothing in my opinion. Thanks for the idea Martin! And congrats on >30k subs.
@@jimcatpsu Thank you Jim for that common sense comment. Plus, for those who are concerned, I made this same "air gap" comment in the description text for those who want to feel safer. Problem is, a lot of people don't bother looking at the comments or the description text for additional info. 🔧 👍
Thanks, Martin! I can’t wait to see your fresh water tank sanitizing video! Every year I do it, I think that there has to be a better way. 🤔
Pp
Bulkhead fitting, screw rv sewer connection and a cap. You can literally use it anywhere and it will be a weather tight seal on anything.
Another brilliant idea Martin! We usually put a 5 gallon blue bucket under our fresh water drain pipe after already draining most of the tank water via our sink & shower, but your method is much more creative and efficient. Pilar and I really miss you guys!!! We hope that your travels are going well.
Hey you two, miss you guys too. We're in PA right now.
Just another thought on how you were doing this. By draining most of the water out of the tank thru the sink & shower, you're using your water pump. Water pumps are NOT for continuous duty like that. They are for intermittent use. It says that right in your water pump manual. Using your water pump to drain your entire water tank could shorten the life of your pump. Now using your pump to flush out all your water lines after sanitizing is fine which I will be showing in my upcoming sanitizing video in a couple of weeks. 🔧 👍
This mod on the fly is really awesome! Thank you for sharing this tip! I am with you….I hate draining a tank right in a public camping spot.
Safe travels!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of information with us who need help. May God Bless you all.
Great solution to this problem! Can't wait to see your next sanitizing video....OOPS, I mean MARTINIZING video!!
GREAT MARTINIZEING IDEA !!! WAY COOOL !!
Great idea but I have a small spigot on the outside of my motorhome so I run my water into the grey tank to dump.
I run the bleach water and rinse water through the hoses I use to hook to city water to clean them at the same time!
Very good video. I’ve been thinking about how to drain the water after sanitizing. Only … use the post end sewer connection so your sewer hose connects correctly, just like the normal sewer hose does to the RV for dumping the black and gray tanks. You used the wrong end, it’s backwards.
Another great video. I tell everyone I talk with, about RVs. To be sure and check out, Martin and Jonie on RV street. You really take the mystery out of maintenance. And saves me a mountain of time, and money, trying things that may or may not work. Joe
Thanks again Joe so much for spreading the word. That is the mission of our channel. 🔧 👍
I have enjoyed watching your videos and get a lot of good information that I take with me. Good Job...
martin , i know my question IS NOT related to this video , which is totally awesome sir, as you know , we both have the same rv , except my is a 2014 , i looked and couldnt find anything YOU had done on the waste system , between black and grey waste systems, waste pumps , your attention to detail amazes me ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Ya I haven't done a video on those yet. However, I will be doing one in the future. It will cover everything including how I store my sewer hoses. But in the mean time if you want, I do have a video that shows how we deal with dumping when we have no access to any hooks ups:
ua-cam.com/video/boAe-rmpWP8/v-deo.html
Great idea 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent job. Very clever.
Thank you very much!
Well done for "Martinizing"! ☺
Great idea, I have deck drains and never liked the idea of putting bleach into the environment. Instead, I can just drain into the septic clean out I use for the grey, black tanks.
Brilliant!! Love!!!💡💡💡💡💡
Great way to clean stinky slinkys too. A little spray of bleach cleaner before connecting and you're good.
This is brilliant!
Thank you sir once again for a great episode .
Great tip. Doesn’t work for me but got me thinking outside the box to come up with my own solution. (TT and drain hose has no valve, just a cap)
Man you have the best rv info!! So great!
Always great videos Martin! Thank you both for doing and sharing all that you do!
Just found your video. Absolutely brilliant!!
Nice project! Very practical. Safe travels!
Nice job great idea and thank you for [posting. I would add an anti-flow back valve in the original discharge line inside before your invention. Happy RVing.
The very first comment in this video I pinned additional info on this and also in the description text for those who want to feel more safe.
thx Joe
In my 40 years of camping I have never wasted my time and water like this.
Thanks😊
We run the bleach and rinse water through the grey and black tanks and empty at the dump station.
Just a word of caution:
If you do that and you're using your water pump to move all that bleach & rinse water to those areas by just turning on a faucet or two to dump into the grey/black tank beware. Most if not all RV water pumps are not designed for continuous duty to move that much water. It says that in your water pump manual. RV water pumps are designed for intermittent use. It can shorten the life of your water pump. Now if you want to take several hours to move that much water intermittently then perhaps no harm no fowl. Your procedure sounds like a great idea and we have considered that in the past, but for the above reasons this is why we don't use that procedure.
Great idea
Great job! We sure miss you two in WGE! Hurry back! Maggie and Doyle say hi!
OMG....Doyle, Maggie we miss you guys too. We're in PA right now leaving Monday for NY and then to ME. So glad you guys chimed in. 💗 💕
Great hac
Great idea. Thanks for sharing. I have added this to my list!
Congradulations on 2 million views.
Martin your the Man! Great Idea!
Thanks 👍
Brilliant!
Thank you! I learn so much from your videos.
fantastic video
Thank you! 😃
Great idea (and project) Martin. I've thought about using that flexible "Lay-flat" (blue) tubing to direct the water where needed, or away from where not wanted. As always, your idea is better than mine (assuming you have a sewer connection to dump to).
Unless I missed something the freshwater in the tank you empty into the sewer is replaced by the air/gases from the sewer. The water MUST be replaced by something. I believe you are describing a closed system. Therefore the water in your fresh tank is more than likely being replaced with sewer gases after being sanitized. Just a heads-up. Please correct me if I am wrong though...
No sewer gases but I did list another way to drain in the description text and also the first pinned comment.
thx Mark
Particles from the sewer would absolutely make it back to the camper/fresh water tank.
I’m going to do this. Thank you so much for this. Great mod.
Nice job god bless
Thank you
Well it is easier to sanitize your tank while you have dump access available, He stated he is full time and is trying to keep from making a mess at the site before he departs . AFTER STAYING SOMEPLACE FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME AND THEN TRAVELING ITS NICE TO FRESHEN UP YOUR HOLDING TANKS.
Excellent idea. Subscribed.
Damn good idea.
Good idea.
I love all you do for us. Thank you :)
The video just had a pop up that said you have reached 2 million views while I was watching.
Your videos are so informative!! Thanks!! ✌
I like it all, but I have to think you should be careful where you dump. If you're dumping into a septic system, you'll be killing off the bacteria working in the septic tank. Not really a neighborly thing to do. If you can find a dump site within a city, like at a Camping World or similar, the dump site goes into the city sewer system instead of a septic system, which relies on bacteria to break down the sewage. Great content, again.
Great video, thank you. Why not drain fresh water tank through running faucets open into the grey and black tank?
Thx.
Well as I have said in other comments, you can do that if you want, but these water pumps are not really made for continuous duty like that. It even says that in the manual. They're intended for intermittent use. Using my fresh water tank capacity as an example, that would using the pump twice @ 72gal. ea. time, non stop and nearly 145 gallons total. So for me, I'd rather save the stress and heating of my pump and just dump it like I showed.
I bought an older bounder moterhome and hope to enjoy a little traveling yourchannel is great and very informitive thank you any suggestion on my bounder to make it better?
Not bad for an old hippie :-)
Great video very helpful
What am I missing?
When the water flow slows down you can get sewer gas that can travel up the pipe and into your fresh water tank unless you have a P-trap made with your hose. Even with that, why would I want to risk it?
If you are already “exercising” your rig monthly, plan your tank sanitation on that day and dump the water while driving down the road, or just do it when you are at a better location.
I addressed this question in the very first comment on the video.
ua-cam.com/video/a89HFUQioBE/v-deo.html
We do sanitize at better locations. But this video was for folks who may not have that option and would be dumping their fresh water after sanitizing in more sensitive areas like I pointed out. For one, like full timers who never move.
You do not want to dump the fresh water tank while driving down the hwy. By law it is legal. And nobody wants to be behind anything loosing any liquid.
We use the dump station for the bleach water.
Yep same thing as we do only in a camp ground. 👍
It would be great to have a "Martinized" RVstreet UA-cam stickers.
I've actually have "kinda - sorta" looked into having some T-Shirts made that says, "My RV has been Martinized" with our logo under that. But as of right now we're to small of a channel and they'd cost to much by using a company that does all the fulfillment. MAYBE......some day down the road.
Thanks Gary. 🔧 👍
@@RVstreet @RVstreet Martin, just some forward thinking! If you even had 1/8 of your subs buy the T-shirt... Just WEARING THEM around other RVers would be free advertising for your channel, AAND spark the question "WHATS MARTINIZED?" ...getting you more subscriber's, who will buy more T-shirts! 🤔🤗
Two ideas. Ok, I have an older Motor Home. 1989 HD Crown Imperial Aluminum Body. Love it! I may need to change the fridge. I here there is a 12 volt-only that may be more economical. Questions I have would be... How much power does it use? (how long can it run without worry with Solar or non-Solar.) Cost? Will it fit? Boondock or shore practicable? probably more questions. The other thought is how to install a solar charging system. Is it practical? Is it an easy install? Would it be best to forget it and upgrade to a newer RV at some time?
Our fridge is absorbtion two way fridge. It runs on electric and propane. When running on propane it kicks over to using 12V for the control board and uses minimal power. Like 2amps max. Great for boondocking. All your other questions require much more in-depth research on your part.
thx you sir 🔧 👍
Nicely done Martin, Just a thought, could you have used along with the sealant, pre-drilled a few small holes in the bottom of the flange then used small self tapping screws?
I understand where you're coming from, but there's no need for screws. The sealant I used on that flange is WAY MORE than sufficient. It isn't going anywhere. Plus. you don't want the ends of those self tapping screws poking up thru the other side.
Good question. 🔧 👍
5200 Marine sealant/adhesive would be a all in one permanent solution for this job
Hi Anthony,
Yep, I'm very familiar with 5200, have used it many times on my boat I used to have and you're right it is a great product. In fact I used it on a different application to fix an issue on our RV. I also did a video on this that's coming out on Aug. 15. But in this case the sealant I used is way good enough, I was able to use up an old tube and it's certainly permanent. 🔧👍
would it be impossible to simply rinse your grey tank with it by leaving all the taps on? Would it take too long?
make sure you maintain air separation, dieing from e coli sounds pretty bad
Did you read my pinned 1st comment or my additional info in the description text?
Your idea makes sense. However for me, I am not comfortable connecting a sewer hose to my fresh tank. I get that you are sanitizing and water is on the way out not in. Just me.
That's kewl. But just to be clear for others. I'm not connecting a sewer hose to the fresh water tank. It's connecting to the bottom of the plastic electrical bay shell.
thx for watching Luis 🔧 👍
I would like to see mechanical fasteners instead of glue simply because of the forces used to attach and disconnect the drain hose. Otherwise great idea.
Thanks Dan but.....if you were to grab this adapter, you'd see for yourself that it ain't going no where. It's now permanent.
?when you use your sewer pipe to drain your fresh water tank what do you do for the contamination issues?
There are no contamination issues.
Would not use a sewer hose with anything to do with fresh water if it is ever used for sewer. More worried about getting hands dirty and cross contamination with clean water tank I am sanitizing. Small chance but why risk?
What risk? There's no risk. The sewer hose itself is below the fresh water tank drain hose. Also, no chance of getting hands dirty or cross contamination either. Just wear gloves whenever handling sewer hoses like I always do. There's absolutely no chance of any cross contamination doing this.
EDIT: Just to be clear: I don't leave the extension sewer hose continually connected like you would normally with your black and grey tank. I only hook it up to drain the fresh water tank after sanitizing and then again to rinse. There's just no way for cross contamination to occur. By doing it this way I'm not dumping all that water onto the ground. And like I said, it's only done once a year.
Love your videos too
So I’m new to the camper RV thing.I have a 30 gallon tank on my camper I was told to put in 1/4 cup of bleach to 15 halyard of water.do you think that’s good ?
Bleach amount - 1/4 cup per 15 gallons of water OR 1 cup per 50 gallons of water.
Off topic here. I was going to order the wash/wax all kit from your store, but it says the item is not available. Any idea when it will be available?
I wish I had found your channel sooner. Subscribed now and thank you for the helpful videos.
His Alex,
Ya, these kits go quick. I've talked to the owners before about this and they're working as hard as they can to keep up. Supply chains for everything including a lot of RV stuff is tough right now. BUT....they will be back in stock soon. I respectively ask to take my Amazon Store link below, put it somewhere convenient to get to and check on this product once a week or so. Thank you so much for wanting to supporting us using our Amazon Store and for subbing.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Have you ever had a problem with the battery connect solenoid in the battery compartment getting hot while driving mine gets up to 170 deg on the laser temp ?
No I haven't.
Sewer gases into the frash water tank. Not so sure about that.
No sewer gases but read the first pinned comment if your scared.
Just found your channel, awesome hack. Could not find your episode on silicone. Would you have a link?
There's not any one particular video I can link to. I've just mentioned the reasons why I don't use Silicone in several video's covering other topics.
But in a nut shell here's why I don't use Silicone:
Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you find a Silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once Silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and now you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual Silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering new Silicone-or any other sealant product for that matter-unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't even adhere to itself. It’s just a pain to use Silicone and there are so many other, better sealants out there for specific jobs.
Would have been way easier to just have added another hose with a barded coupler to add to that extension out the bottom. Smaller hose and less storage space required.
Well no not exactly, because then I'd have to carry another hose-and it would have to be a BIG hose in my case-because that drain hose out the bottom is 1.5" diameter and then I'd have to find more room to store that hose. I don't want or need more hoses. My existing sewer and extension hoses are already stored under the RV in metal tubes that take up no storage room at all.
thanks for watching and commenting John 🔧 👍
I was wondering if you had any videos on roof sealing With using self levelling calking or tape what is the best thing to use and I thought I heard you say never use silicone when going over joints? Just wanted to know if you had any insight thank you and have a great day!!!
Here's what I did to my roof and joints: ua-cam.com/video/H00oNtbvtrk/v-deo.html
Here's my YT Channel home page: ua-cam.com/users/RVstreet
Be sure to check out my PLAYLIST page
Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you find a Silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once Silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and now you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual Silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering new Silicone-or any other sealant product for that matter-unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't even adhere to itself. It’s just a pain to use Silicone and there are so many other, better sealants out there for specific jobs.
Thanks for the advice!!! Happy Camping 👊
I'm going to file this under solutions for problems that don't exist.
The problem is that many-if not most-CG’s will not let you drain 50+ gallons of bleach water on the ground. Something that all full timers have to deal with. It's just not good idea all the way around.
thx for watching and commenting. 🔧 👍
The water taste like plastic in our RV when we are hooked up to city water in the RV parks, do you have any helpful hints to correct this issue?
Are you filtering and softening your water properly and using the right kind of hose?
ua-cam.com/play/PLkQXtMp9xodT-mrqODN1IH_B2ZAJJ--1c.html
@@RVstreet Yes I am using the correct water hose, and I also use the Beach Lane dual water system (5 micron & .05 micron filters).
@Doug Sala
Ok Questions:
1) So you're not using your fresh water tank in this instance but when is the last time you've sanitized your fresh water tank-which also will sanitize-all your water lines.
2) How long has this been going on
3) When's the last time you've changed your water filters
4) When's the last time you've properly flushed your water heater
5) When's the last time you've sanitized the hose
You're getting contamination somewhere from the city spigot to the RV. And that-somewhere-are the things I just listed. If your entire water system is sanitized regularly, your filters are clean and not old and working properly, you should have good tasting water. All these systems work together so if one of them is not working properly it will make the entire system fowl.
ua-cam.com/video/5-55rJ0w-5U/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/0m4m1CYiUYc/v-deo.html
EDIT: Just thought of another thing it could be. I don't know what type of hose you're using but some of hoses that have been lying in the hot sun can leach plastic from the hose into the water.
@@RVstreet Yes I am using the correct hose and filter, no I am not using a water softer.
My advice is to go thru my list above because it has to be one or more of those things.
Since the rv park's sanitary system is similar to a septic system , are you not worried about compromising the system using bleach for sanitation maintenance? If the system dumps into a city treatment then no foul no problem. I use bleach for sanitizing the water system but I'm able to dump into my sewer cleanout into the city system. Just askin'
If the place is any good they have ways of maintaining the septic system, bleach is not the worst thing I have seen put into these systems. And the ratio is not going to do any damage. If the place doesn't keep up on their septic, they will constantly have problems bleach or no bleach
Most (not all) of the parks we've ever stayed in dumps into the city sewer system as this parks does. But I also agree with Winner's Creed comment below.
thx Ray for your question.
Why don't you simply open the faucets and put the water in your gray tank and then empty these?
Because you'd have to use the water pump to do that and water pumps are not designed to be continuously. If you wanted to take several hours to do that I guess you could. But that's why RV's are equipped with a fresh water tank drain line.
Good morning to you two. I hope that you are doing well. I was trying to find you on UA-cam but the link provided is not working. I was trying to find an email address but I couldn’t find one. I’m SO GREEN at this RV thing that it’s scary. Like I told you before, I’ve binge watched all your videos (and RV Geeks and others) because I just bought, a month ago, a brand new diesel pusher. I’m expecting delivery in about one year. House wise, I’m all setup. I won’t have to need a storage unit as I planned on entering the RV pretty much « naked » and buy as I go. I told you that I trust your knowledge and find you very helpful… My question, I have to ask it here as I cannot find another way to reach you, could I meet with you somewhere and hire you as a « consultant » to help me make sure that I am carrying everything that insure that I will have safe trips : tools, accessories and things like that. I’ve already planned to have installed RetroBand in all my tires at NIRVC Dallas and also to go to the one week training at the National RV Training Academy in Athens, TX. You would be my next move after that… hehehe… In your essentials video you talk about making list of what one would need… I don’t have a clue, at this point in time, about what I would need… hehehe… I understand that your coach is not a diesel pusher but I have the feeling that you know about them as well as gas powered diesel… Thank you so much for all the videos you are making. I enjoy them and learn from them very much.
You can reach me on FB pretty much anytime. I usually check it everyday or every other day. Click the logo on the right hand of my main YT channel here: ua-cam.com/users/RVstreet
I'm flattered that you want to hire me as a consultant but in all honesty I'm so busy with our YT channel and traveling that's just not possible.
However...I have focused a lot of my videos what every RVer needs regardless of whether it's a-pull behind trailer, gas coach or a diesel pusher. There are many things every RV should have. You should have and be carrying these things at all times and doing these practices to stay safe and keep you rig happy. These things alone for your pusher will save you a lot of grief down the road so start your list here.
You can watch those videos here if you haven't already:
Part 1 - ua-cam.com/video/U9nb40m9-IY/v-deo.html
Part 2 - ua-cam.com/video/2kCXRbvtoYA/v-deo.html
Part 3 - ua-cam.com/video/14Zo8Vkvh5o/v-deo.html
For airing up your tires properly-which is really important-watch this: ua-cam.com/video/Q_NuEoBIxe8/v-deo.html
All my videos I've produced so far, I've put in easy to read different PLAYLISTS here: ua-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Once you get your rig-it WILL-take you about a year maybe a longer to figure out exactly what other things you need to do or modify to fit your needs and your particular way of traveling and living. But I have confidence that you will figure it out simply because of the research you're doing right now. I know you desire to have all your bases covered. But if you do the things I mentioned above you'll be way ahead of the game from the get go. But in reality all the other things you may be concerned about just needs to time to see any weaknesses and then adjust accordingly.
Everything that I covered in all my videos I have in my Amazon Store to make it easy for everyone to get the right stuff.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
NOTE: Be sure to definitely get my brass quick disconnects. It will make hooking up your water Sooooooo EASY.
As far as other water related stuff go here and mention my name and RVstreet and THEY WILL take care of you:
www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Affiliate=RVstreet
I'll try to help you as much as I'm able to along the way.
thx Michel 🔧👍
@@RVstreet Thank you very much for your quick reply and thank you for offering to help me and many others along the way to our journey to RVing.
@@FrenchEros 🔧👍
I keep hearing “go to my UA-cam channel with the link below”. I Can’t find a link below or above or anywhere. What’s the link?
If you click our name-RVstreet-right below each video that will take you to our main UA-cam channel page. BUT...THERE'S A LOT MORE.
There are a lot of folks-especially older folks like us-who aren't very computer savvy and don't know how to use all the features on youtube or have trouble finding stuff. The way you get around on youtube is different on a phone, a laptop or a computer. So......I did a video on how to use different devices on youtube so you can get all what's available. Here's the link to that video. I think it will really help you if your having problems navigating around youtube. ua-cam.com/video/bprAsHO7-F8/v-deo.html
Hi Cajun,
In addition to the video I just recommended to you, here's another quick summary to find the description text:
To see additional description text and links-on a computer-just go to the top of each video page where it says, "SHOW MORE" under each video, click that, scroll down. If you're on a tablet or a smart phone, there is a little arrow under the video just to the right of each video title. Click that, scroll down to see this additional description text and links.
Thanks! Got it!
👍😎🍻🇨🇦
I don't understand why you would need to sanitize your freshwater tank when leaving a site.
And why dump twice? One fill with some Clorox should work, then refill.
@@chucknSC I believe the second is just to rinse.
@@davidgadbury1832 We don't sanitize when leaving a site. I sanitize once a year. But with this adapter I don't make a mess at the site for the next RVer that comes behinds us. Correct. The 2nd is a rinse. You want to rinse.
@@RVstreet you said that you didn't like sanitizing due to the muddy mess for the next people coming into that site, I thought. That is why I was curious about that.
@@davidgadbury1832 It's all good.
thx David 😜
Well old timer I think you have too much time on your hands!
"Old Timer"...I've never been called that before. I'm usually always called the youngster that looks to young to be retired. That's funny. 😜 😜😜😜😜😜😜