For future projects, please use female connectors on the power supply side as an power outlet and the male connector on the cable. For 5v and 9v there is not much of a safety issue, but if the voltage get higher things like this matter !
Yes, I share the same concern. In fact, the standard in industry and in everyday life is that: female connectors on wall outlets and power supplies; and male connectors for any appliances and consumer end devices.
Not a bad suggestion, but is that adapter available in an aviation style connector? The way he put it together looks like the only way you could do it with this style of connector. Googling around it seems like the "generally accepted" threshold where you need to start worrying about shock safety is over 30 v. I don't know I've seen anything powered by more than 20V, so it seems unlikely. For retro-projects, I don't think I know of anything over 12 V. Rarely you might see something that takes -12V and +12V, but even that only gets to 24V potential, so I don't think you'd ever really get to something where safety is a huge concern.
@@stevesether Yes. In practice it is really difficult (or almost impossible) to find the female version of this type of connector for chassis mounting.
Be careful with cheap versions of those connectors! I used them in an amateur radio project and due to a significant deviation in its mechanical dimensions, I was able to incorrectly connect the plug into the socket. Without using force it ended up 90° rotated and my equipment got fried. The dent didn't prevent it, because it was apparently too small. So always make sure that the dent is correctly aligned with the notch when you connect your cable!
@@juliedunken1150 As others said this is not called for. Also, he was suppling good info as to the quality of connectors. Doenst matter how they are wired up but if you can put them in the wrong way that is a problem.
@@francistaylor1822 wow, defending Shotywork seems like a losing proposition. I sit here and see Jan easily make this work. There is an old saying in my country, call a plumber before you try and fix your plumbing. It’s sounds like this person lacks expertise that Jan has easily and anyone of us mind you could easily master. Electrical work is no hobby no matter how many midwitts believe it is, these procedures should only be done by a trained expert who doesn’t make mistakes. Jan is one, this gentleman or they person is not. They should try gardening instead.
Nice solution! One suggestion: If you replace the 5V-MeanWell with a 5V/12V-MeanWell ("Amiga PSU") you should be able to do a twin-cable for C64 plus 1541 like for the Atari 800XL/1050. 😉
And having a single 'universal' powers supply would be an excellent way to de-clutter a desk for someone who is constantly doing repairs on various different retro systems.
That's an extremely common connector for things like audio mixers from the likes of Yamaha, etc... for power connections. I've worked with several Yamaha mixers over the years that have used that exact connector.
For anyone wanting alternative connectors, SD20 connectors are also available with multiple pins in a strong plastic construction and designed for high current applications. My brewery equipment uses multiple sizes including for two 240V 3000W heating elements. Or Neutrik make some nice stuff at a higher price point too.
Great idea!I just finished a similar project by building one power supply for an Atari STE and a CPC6128! Now my STE stays cool by having an external psu . The amperage is high enough that allows both machines to run at the same time. Both machines don't have disk drives (Gotek) and that helps the 12volt line!
Hi Jan. Those aviation connectors are very good - I use them for all my projects that require high current such as a mini CNC machine controller. You can get them quite cheaply but good quality ones are a bit more expensive. I am puzzled as to why you used hot glue to block up the second hole in the case. I would have used the hole to mount a second connector wired in parallel with the first. This would have given the option of powering a second computer/device/disk drive at the same time. Also I would have printed out a label showing the pinouts of the connectors and stuck it on the back of the case by the sockets for future reference when making extra cables. Those aviation connectors really help in making this project look very professional - setting yourself a new benchmark? 😉 😁👍
@@espressomatic It is already set up to supply a computer and a disk drive at the same time from one connector. It would at least have the option of using a separate connector for each device.
Glue is good enough to keep a nut from working it's way loose. Filling a grommet with glue will allow that hole to be used later on without major effort to remove. Regarding multiple devices, that is dependent on how many amps are needed to run more than one device. A 5.25" floppy motor can pull 2A by itself when it spins up.
I had the same idea. My next one will be a larger universal PSU for computers like the Amiga, Commodore 64, Atari XL and ST, C16/Spectrum etc. It can power multiple devices and/or peripherals simultaneously and even a 12 volt display (also universal). It is based on a compact PC power supply (5, 12, -12 volts) with an additional 9 VAC transformer and 9VDC (12 VDC step-down). It also has an extra 5 volt USB connector for charging a phone/tablet or, for example, for a Raspberry Pi. Everything is build inside an old C128D case. I'm considering building a Pi1541 in there as well. But maybe I want too much at once. Unfortunately I can't connect everything i want. For example, the Sinclair QL officially has 15.6 VAC and 9VDC. However, this is internally converted to 5, 12 and -12 volts, so maybe....
Great video Jan, as always. For closing holes in plastic, I like to use a hand mouldable Polyshape that is able to close the hole, and then you can fine it if you want. It is also possible to paint it, in case you would love to have it in a different colour plastic.
Aus dem alten Commodore Netzteilgehäuse habe ich mir einecSpardose gebastelt.... der connector ist klasse, bislang habe ich bei meinen Multivoltage Netzteilen für jede Spannung einen standard Barrelconnector benutzt...
Very funky indeed Jan, the only difference I'd have done is use a blanking grommet to seal that hole or do what Spacedock below suggests. Other than that, a nice little space saving PSU. Sadly the war between the camps will run on even though there's so many Atari and Commodore dual users out there like myself. They just like to row :)
Thanks! Yep, I'm going to use it for my Plus/4 (that I modded with a round connector ages ago) and my VIC-20! Kind of universal indeed (although the video title was mildly clickbait-y admittedly...) :)
Nice! I only just realized that the ZD-915 desoldering station also uses one of those to connect the "gun" part. They seem to be pretty common for power connections in general.
Indeed! This particular one has a broken transformer, though. I didn't look at it very closely but I think the secondary windings have an intermittent short. Not really reasonable to try to save, I think.
These connectors are very nice. I use the 3-pin 16mm version (GX16) for my audio projects since they typically require a dual voltage PSU (e.g. +/-15V and ground). The 16mm version has large pins with solder cups that are very easy to solder, the 12mm version (GX12) is a bit too cramped for my taste.
Hey Jan, why don't you use the second hole in the housing of your power supply for a second connector with the same pinout? Then you can connect both cables at the same time and connect either C64 or Atari as needed without having to unscrew and screw on the aviation connector again and again. It would make your life as a tester and repairer a little easier. But either way, a useful little project. Thanks a lot for your awesome videos. 😀
Awesome video. I've known about the connectors for years since they are used on some CB radios to connect the mic to the radio but never knew what they are called.
Du solltest eine Sicherung in den Sekundärkreis einbauen, zwischen Netzteil und Stecker und zwischen Transformator und Stecker. Du könntest auch einen weiteren Stecker in dein Gehäuse einbauen, die parallel geschaltet sind, dann musst Du nicht immer die Stecker wechseln ;) You should build a fuse in the secondary circuit, between the power supply and the plug and between the transformer and the plug. Also, you could build another plug in your case, which are connected in parallel, then you do not always have to change the plugs ;)
I have plans for something like that in the future! If you added a +/-12V and a 9V DC rail to the PSU it would be very much universal for retro computers/consoles of all kinds indeed. :)
Cool. I suppose you could've added another one in the other hole, and if the power supply is sufficient, you could even power both devices at the same time.
Those are sturdy connectors, but the normal (safe) convention is to have the power outlet as a chassis mounted socket rather than having hot pins sticking out.
Good call! Probably doesn't matter much for my hobbyist use case but you are correct, would be way better to have the socket side on the PSU. I didn't think of that.
I used that style of connectors before (though commercial moulded ones) at my previous work as a software engineer for mining equipment. The fit was always super tight (probably for the IP rating) and they were a pain to deal with. Funny fact: they were only IP rated for a very small number of connects/disconnects (3 I think?). Didn't matter in the lab environment I dealt with them in, but on a real machine they would have to be replaced after that.
Check it out, comment one says they used connectors that were just a tiny bit small and they fried a entire radio setup, now that is some smarts Lol! I told them it was a them problem and not to doubt the work of a pro like Jam Beta!
hi jan great idea! i would put an a/b switch on the power supply so that you can keep both cables plugged in. if the supply can handle it, would be cool to run them both at the same time ;-)
I don't think it's a good idea to power more devices at once because of interference and possible power surges (for example when the disk drive spins up). You would need some elaborate filtering or separate the power supplies internally to pull that off safely.
I would be worried about interference between devices and power surges, especially when the drive motors spin up etc. Not a good idea in my opinion. But you could always add separate PSUs internally to counter that of course!
i'd have put a second connector in instead of closing off the hole......maybe for a 1541......or if the wires are modular anything that needs the same voltage(s)
The company that makes these cases is Bahar Enclosures. They are mostly selling through eBay afaik. Not sure if they are readily available outside of Germany though.
Jan, since there already were two holes available, why didn't you fit two connectors? Of course the PSU could be too light to supply two computers at the same time.
Yep, this would be too weak to reliably power the devices at the same time. There would also be potential issues with interference and power surges (when the drive spins up for example).
Nice idea to reduce the number of different power supplies. But why not just build a simple adapter that you connect to your existing C64 PSU to get Atari-style connectors?
The Atari 1050 needs a beefier 9VAC rail than the C64 PSUs (even my higher output self-made ones) can provide. Doing it this way around just made more sense. :)
Aviation connector, eh? I think I've seen those, so if anything, at least I learned the name of that type of connector. I'm thinking it would've been cool to just add an additional DIN power cable for the C64 hard-wired to the 5VDC and 9VAC. No adaptors, just the cables coming straight from the box. While technically problematic if you have both computers turned on (unless the PSU can handle the load), it would be convenient and you wouldn't have to worry about losing an adaptor. Of course, if you did lose it, you could always build another one, but still.
I don't think it's a good idea to power more devices at once because of interference and possible power surges (for example when the disk drive spins up). You would need some elaborate filtering or separate the power supplies internally to pull that off safely.
Do you personally recommend using chargers from smartphones? Most of us have one or more sitting in a drawer. I replaced the 5v regulator/pcb in a C64 brick of death with the 5v pcb I extracted from a quality charger (Iphone or Motorola charger). I frequently measure it and its values are rock solid without any weird artifacts in C64's picture or stability. Any ideas on that mod?
I think one of the better chargers would work fine. I've seen 2A to 2.5A used to make power bricks. Originals were 1.5-1.7A 5V DC. The extra headspace is there if you need it.
I'd have just shoved an LED into that now disused hole as a power indicator, even if it had to be a large one like an 8 or 10mm one to fill the void... :P
You even remembered to put the connector sleeve on before soldering the connector on..... I never forgot that either... nope... not once.... and the connector didn't have 26 pins in either....
I still forget that order of operations from time to time myself... :D Having just four well spaced pins to solder was a nice change from more intricate DINs (how I hate them!) and the like. :D
The most annoying I forgot it on, was the 26 pin, and it was not even soldered, but it was all just put the wire through a tiny color coded hole, then squeeze a ring onto it from the side, and it would then lock all wires in place... in theory... it was so fiddly to get all the wires in without pulling others out, and then finally when putting the ring on, it wouldn't cut into the wires properly... and then finally when I got all of them to make contact..... I noticed the sleeve still on the table.
Aviation connector? Same connector for cb / ham radio microphone... only mentioning tjat as have probably soldered hundreds of these of varying pin outs
The so-called war between Commodore and Atari is silly. Forgive my terminology, but Atari and Commodore are close incestuous cousins. The Atari ST was designed by a former Commodore 64 engineer the former owner of Commodore brought with him when he left Commodore and purchased Atari, and the Commodore Amiga was designed by former Atari engineers, one being the designer of the chips in the Atari 800 computer, which Atari funded its development (Commodore didn't). I enjoy and appreciate both Commodore and Atari machines.
Not a good idea to power both (or all three) devices at once because of interference/power surges (eg when the drive motors start spinning etc). The rails would have to be separated (or at least filtered) to pull that off in a safe manner.
I envisage a future where this legendary power supply will have a nest of cables protruding out the back that can power everything from a Cray, to an Oric 1.
For future projects, please use female connectors on the power supply side as an power outlet and the male connector on the cable. For 5v and 9v there is not much of a safety issue, but if the voltage get higher things like this matter !
Yes, I share the same concern.
In fact, the standard in industry and in everyday life is that: female connectors on wall outlets and power supplies; and male connectors for any appliances and consumer end devices.
Not a bad suggestion, but is that adapter available in an aviation style connector? The way he put it together looks like the only way you could do it with this style of connector.
Googling around it seems like the "generally accepted" threshold where you need to start worrying about shock safety is over 30 v. I don't know I've seen anything powered by more than 20V, so it seems unlikely. For retro-projects, I don't think I know of anything over 12 V.
Rarely you might see something that takes -12V and +12V, but even that only gets to 24V potential, so I don't think you'd ever really get to something where safety is a huge concern.
@@stevesether Yes. In practice it is really difficult (or almost impossible) to find the female version of this type of connector for chassis mounting.
@@Taisen_Des What about HIRSCHMANN MAB4100 combined with MAS4100?
Be careful with cheap versions of those connectors! I used them in an amateur radio project and due to a significant deviation in its mechanical dimensions, I was able to incorrectly connect the plug into the socket. Without using force it ended up 90° rotated and my equipment got fried. The dent didn't prevent it, because it was apparently too small. So always make sure that the dent is correctly aligned with the notch when you connect your cable!
Oh, that’s good advice. The connectors I got seem to be pretty decent so far but definitely worth double checking when connecting the cables! 🙀
Oh WOW, sounds like a you problem. Jan’s work look superb ! Sorry your not as good as him, maybe next time send your project to a pro! Lol
@@juliedunken1150 That doesn't seem called for.
@@juliedunken1150 As others said this is not called for. Also, he was suppling good info as to the quality of connectors. Doenst matter how they are wired up but if you can put them in the wrong way that is a problem.
@@francistaylor1822 wow, defending
Shotywork seems like a losing proposition. I sit here and see Jan easily make this work. There is an old saying in my country, call a plumber before you try and fix your plumbing. It’s sounds like this person lacks expertise that Jan has easily and anyone of us mind you could easily master. Electrical work is no hobby no matter how many midwitts believe it is, these procedures should only be done by a trained expert who doesn’t make mistakes. Jan is one, this gentleman or they person is not. They should try gardening instead.
I love those aviation plugs. Can't get enough of that wonderful redundancy ;-). Gut gemacht!
Nice solution! One suggestion: If you replace the 5V-MeanWell with a 5V/12V-MeanWell ("Amiga PSU") you should be able to do a twin-cable for C64 plus 1541 like for the Atari 800XL/1050. 😉
And having a single 'universal' powers supply would be an excellent way to de-clutter a desk for someone who is constantly doing repairs on various different retro systems.
... danke für das Video. Eine interessante Idee und spart Platz auf der Werkbank/Spieltisch.
That's an extremely common connector for things like audio mixers from the likes of Yamaha, etc... for power connections. I've worked with several Yamaha mixers over the years that have used that exact connector.
Those connectors are also used for microphone connectors for CB (Citizens Band) radio transceivers.
Ha! Didn’t know that, nice! :D
For anyone wanting alternative connectors, SD20 connectors are also available with multiple pins in a strong plastic construction and designed for high current applications. My brewery equipment uses multiple sizes including for two 240V 3000W heating elements. Or Neutrik make some nice stuff at a higher price point too.
Great idea!I just finished a similar project by building one power supply for an Atari STE and a CPC6128! Now my STE stays cool by having an external psu . The amperage is high enough that allows both machines to run at the same time. Both machines don't have disk drives (Gotek) and that helps the 12volt line!
Back in the 1990s these plugs were on the CB radio for the microphones. 4 pin for microphone and switch.
Excellent Idea, one power supply to rule them all. Thanks for sharing!
Excellento indeed! Just don’t throw it into a volcano!
Hi Jan. Those aviation connectors are very good - I use them for all my projects that require high current such as a mini CNC machine controller. You can get them quite cheaply but good quality ones are a bit more expensive. I am puzzled as to why you used hot glue to block up the second hole in the case. I would have used the hole to mount a second connector wired in parallel with the first. This would have given the option of powering a second computer/device/disk drive at the same time. Also I would have printed out a label showing the pinouts of the connectors and stuck it on the back of the case by the sockets for future reference when making extra cables. Those aviation connectors really help in making this project look very professional - setting yourself a new benchmark? 😉 😁👍
Agree x 3
I was thinking the same thing.
Maybe one or both of the PS he used can't supply enough current to drive multiple loads.
@@espressomatic It is already set up to supply a computer and a disk drive at the same time from one connector. It would at least have the option of using a separate connector for each device.
Glue is good enough to keep a nut from working it's way loose. Filling a grommet with glue will allow that hole to be used later on without major effort to remove.
Regarding multiple devices, that is dependent on how many amps are needed to run more than one device. A 5.25" floppy motor can pull 2A by itself when it spins up.
I had the same idea. My next one will be a larger universal PSU for computers like the Amiga, Commodore 64, Atari XL and ST, C16/Spectrum etc. It can power multiple devices and/or peripherals simultaneously and even a 12 volt display (also universal). It is based on a compact PC power supply (5, 12, -12 volts) with an additional 9 VAC transformer and 9VDC (12 VDC step-down). It also has an extra 5 volt USB connector for charging a phone/tablet or, for example, for a Raspberry Pi. Everything is build inside an old C128D case. I'm considering building a Pi1541 in there as well. But maybe I want too much at once.
Unfortunately I can't connect everything i want. For example, the Sinclair QL officially has 15.6 VAC and 9VDC. However, this is internally converted to 5, 12 and -12 volts, so maybe....
Great video Jan, as always. For closing holes in plastic, I like to use a hand mouldable Polyshape that is able to close the hole, and then you can fine it if you want. It is also possible to paint it, in case you would love to have it in a different colour plastic.
Hot glue can be punched out at a later date if he made any changes to his design.
Aus dem alten Commodore Netzteilgehäuse habe ich mir einecSpardose gebastelt.... der connector ist klasse, bislang habe ich bei meinen Multivoltage Netzteilen für jede Spannung einen standard Barrelconnector benutzt...
Very nice work there Jan!
Very funky indeed Jan, the only difference I'd have done is use a blanking grommet to seal that hole or do what Spacedock below suggests. Other than that, a nice little space saving PSU. Sadly the war between the camps will run on even though there's so many Atari and Commodore dual users out there like myself. They just like to row :)
Great work, Jan! I really apreciate that you explain everything. This powersupply also works on a commodore plus/4 with round connector, which i have.
Thanks! Yep, I'm going to use it for my Plus/4 (that I modded with a round connector ages ago) and my VIC-20! Kind of universal indeed (although the video title was mildly clickbait-y admittedly...) :)
I have a mini Phonic mixing desk that uses those aviation connectors for it's power supply to the desk
Nice! I only just realized that the ZD-915 desoldering station also uses one of those to connect the "gun" part. They seem to be pretty common for power connections in general.
Ottimo alimentatore universale Jan,così con un solo alimentatore colleghi quello che vuoi,geniale!
Those C64 bricks are saveable by rebricking or replacing the faulty 5V regulator with a UBEC.
Indeed! This particular one has a broken transformer, though. I didn't look at it very closely but I think the secondary windings have an intermittent short. Not really reasonable to try to save, I think.
These connectors are very nice. I use the 3-pin 16mm version (GX16) for my audio projects since they typically require a dual voltage PSU (e.g. +/-15V and ground). The 16mm version has large pins with solder cups that are very easy to solder, the 12mm version (GX12) is a bit too cramped for my taste.
A little pouch bag on the side of the PSU for the unused cable would be nice.
Great idea Jan Beta! 🙂👍
Hey Jan, why don't you use the second hole in the housing of your power supply for a second connector with the same pinout? Then you can connect both cables at the same time and connect either C64 or Atari as needed without having to unscrew and screw on the aviation connector again and again. It would make your life as a tester and repairer a little easier. But either way, a useful little project. Thanks a lot for your awesome videos. 😀
Awesome I'm inspired to build one that includes the Amiga and c128
The war between Commodore and Atari just ended. Peace....Nice work Jan.
Haha, thanks! I find it peculiar how some peeps are actually still keeping the Atari/Commodore rivalry alive for realz. :D
I used these kind of connectors on my Lumix G80 camera rig. In sweden they were called GX16. The tolerances will not allow accidental rotation. :)
Awesome video. I've known about the connectors for years since they are used on some CB radios to connect the mic to the radio but never knew what they are called.
The connection is also use for cb radio microphones
Du solltest eine Sicherung in den Sekundärkreis einbauen, zwischen Netzteil und Stecker und zwischen Transformator und Stecker.
Du könntest auch einen weiteren Stecker in dein Gehäuse einbauen, die parallel geschaltet sind, dann musst Du nicht immer die Stecker wechseln ;)
You should build a fuse in the secondary circuit, between the power supply and the plug and between the transformer and the plug.
Also, you could build another plug in your case, which are connected in parallel, then you do not always have to change the plugs ;)
Awesome idea. I have to make a new psu for my c128. Because one of the 9ac's only output around 2 volts. This is a great inspiration, Thank you 🙂👍🏻
Yeah, waiting for an update to support the Atari VCS 2600 in addition. ;) An all-in-one Commodore PSU - C64, Plus4/C16, VIC-20, Amiga would be nice!
I have plans for something like that in the future! If you added a +/-12V and a 9V DC rail to the PSU it would be very much universal for retro computers/consoles of all kinds indeed. :)
@@JanBeta Look forward to seeing it.. a universal PSU would be good for those who don't have all of their computers set-up all of the time.
@6:55 "welcoooooome, to the solder siiiide..."
Don't forget to make a Commodore 128 cable also.
Cool. I suppose you could've added another one in the other hole, and if the power supply is sufficient, you could even power both devices at the same time.
Current draw is a primary concern.
@@timmooney7528 Yeah, I took a look at the original video, and it seems the power supply he used delivers just 3A at 5V. That's not a lot.
Those are sturdy connectors, but the normal (safe) convention is to have the power outlet as a chassis mounted socket rather than having hot pins sticking out.
Good call! Probably doesn't matter much for my hobbyist use case but you are correct, would be way better to have the socket side on the PSU. I didn't think of that.
I used that style of connectors before (though commercial moulded ones) at my previous work as a software engineer for mining equipment. The fit was always super tight (probably for the IP rating) and they were a pain to deal with. Funny fact: they were only IP rated for a very small number of connects/disconnects (3 I think?). Didn't matter in the lab environment I dealt with them in, but on a real machine they would have to be replaced after that.
Check it out, comment one says they used connectors that were just a tiny bit small and they fried a entire radio setup, now that is some smarts Lol! I told them it was a them problem and not to doubt the work of a pro like Jam Beta!
@@juliedunken1150 not a problem in our connectors and cables. But they were also horribly expensive
I love this idea
Nice. I Think the connector in front will be better. When chance.
Awesome idea 😊👍🏼🍻
Only one problem with those connectors is the you should have got female panel mounted sockets for extra safty.
Great Video.
hi jan great idea! i would put an a/b switch on the power supply so that you can keep both cables plugged in. if the supply can handle it, would be cool to run them both at the same time ;-)
I don't think it's a good idea to power more devices at once because of interference and possible power surges (for example when the disk drive spins up). You would need some elaborate filtering or separate the power supplies internally to pull that off safely.
Could you add back the 2nd power port and power 2 units at once? ... Or would it draw too much?
what about making it a dual output supply, with wires for both the systems and a floppy drive (or other powered peripheral) each
I would be worried about interference between devices and power surges, especially when the drive motors spin up etc. Not a good idea in my opinion. But you could always add separate PSUs internally to counter that of course!
i'd have put a second connector in instead of closing off the hole......maybe for a 1541......or if the wires are modular anything that needs the same voltage(s)
Hello Jan, thank for this project. May i ask you a link for your Project Case ? (Many are bad quality or very expensives) Thx.
The company that makes these cases is Bahar Enclosures. They are mostly selling through eBay afaik. Not sure if they are readily available outside of Germany though.
Jan, since there already were two holes available, why didn't you fit two connectors? Of course the PSU could be too light to supply two computers at the same time.
Yep, this would be too weak to reliably power the devices at the same time. There would also be potential issues with interference and power surges (when the drive spins up for example).
Nice idea to reduce the number of different power supplies. But why not just build a simple adapter that you connect to your existing C64 PSU to get Atari-style connectors?
The Atari 1050 needs a beefier 9VAC rail than the C64 PSUs (even my higher output self-made ones) can provide. Doing it this way around just made more sense. :)
If i want to build this, can I use a USB cable, or is the diameter of the strands too small?
Aviation connector, eh? I think I've seen those, so if anything, at least I learned the name of that type of connector. I'm thinking it would've been cool to just add an additional DIN power cable for the C64 hard-wired to the 5VDC and 9VAC. No adaptors, just the cables coming straight from the box. While technically problematic if you have both computers turned on (unless the PSU can handle the load), it would be convenient and you wouldn't have to worry about losing an adaptor. Of course, if you did lose it, you could always build another one, but still.
I don't think it's a good idea to power more devices at once because of interference and possible power surges (for example when the disk drive spins up). You would need some elaborate filtering or separate the power supplies internally to pull that off safely.
Where I can get that power supply?
Do you personally recommend using chargers from smartphones? Most of us have one or more sitting in a drawer. I replaced the 5v regulator/pcb in a C64 brick of death with the 5v pcb I extracted from a quality charger (Iphone or Motorola charger). I frequently measure it and its values are rock solid without any weird artifacts in C64's picture or stability. Any ideas on that mod?
I think one of the better chargers would work fine. I've seen 2A to 2.5A used to make power bricks. Originals were 1.5-1.7A 5V DC. The extra headspace is there if you need it.
I'd have just shoved an LED into that now disused hole as a power indicator, even if it had to be a large one like an 8 or 10mm one to fill the void... :P
You even remembered to put the connector sleeve on before soldering the connector on..... I never forgot that either... nope... not once.... and the connector didn't have 26 pins in either....
I still forget that order of operations from time to time myself... :D Having just four well spaced pins to solder was a nice change from more intricate DINs (how I hate them!) and the like. :D
The most annoying I forgot it on, was the 26 pin, and it was not even soldered, but it was all just put the wire through a tiny color coded hole, then squeeze a ring onto it from the side, and it would then lock all wires in place... in theory... it was so fiddly to get all the wires in without pulling others out, and then finally when putting the ring on, it wouldn't cut into the wires properly... and then finally when I got all of them to make contact..... I noticed the sleeve still on the table.
Aviation connector? Same connector for cb / ham radio microphone... only mentioning tjat as have probably soldered hundreds of these of varying pin outs
👍🏻 705
That was the first connector I thought.
The so-called war between Commodore and Atari is silly. Forgive my terminology, but Atari and Commodore are close incestuous cousins. The Atari ST was designed by a former Commodore 64 engineer the former owner of Commodore brought with him when he left Commodore and purchased Atari, and the Commodore Amiga was designed by former Atari engineers, one being the designer of the chips in the Atari 800 computer, which Atari funded its development (Commodore didn't). I enjoy and appreciate both Commodore and Atari machines.
Jan, please wear safety glasses when drilling. Suggestion for safety sake’s
Why didn't you put two connectors, so you could power both computers at the same time? You already have two holes 😀
Not a good idea to power both (or all three) devices at once because of interference/power surges (eg when the drive motors start spinning etc). The rails would have to be separated (or at least filtered) to pull that off in a safe manner.
War, it was won by Apple, they are still in bizzzzness
Man merkt direkt das du Deutscher bist
No sh*t, Sherlock.
I envisage a future where this legendary power supply will have a nest of cables protruding out the back that can power everything from a Cray, to an Oric 1.
Life goals! :D
@@JanBeta Hehehe... If anyone can, our man Jan can!
It'll need a huge power brick for the Cray :)
@@timmooney7528 Obviously.
We're all sparkies in one way or another here fella, lighten up.
@@meh3247 For future reference, this is a smiley :) It's all in fun when you see that :)
Cheers
If you did all this magic hundreds of years ago you be burnt to the stake lol your a WIZARD JAN
Haha, thanks, I guess! :D
FIRST!!!!