My father taught me when I was young, that watching a skilled craftsman working is something to appreciate. With the sole exception of the bent corner, that power supply replacement looks better than something from a factory build. Great job as always.
I have a 520STe that was given to me as a gift by a customer who before he gifted it to me became a good friend, and I absolutely adore it, I've fully recapped the entire system, fitted it with 4MB of RAM, a gotek floppy emulator, an ultrasatan HDD emulator and upgraded it to TOS 2.06. It's a gorgeous machine and I'm delighted to have it in my collection. I found that the original PSU can be made good again by replacing all of the caps with low esr Nichicon/Panasonic caps, once I did that the screen no longer dims when accessing the floppy drive (before I replaced it with the gotek) and while the PSU still gets unnervingly hot after long use, it's not given me a lick of trouble, and in conjunction with an RGB SCART cable the picture is crystal clear even in low res mode, whereas before I recapped it the image was fuzzy and distorted, some PSUs may still exhibit screen dimming, mine doesn't but that might not be true for others. Now I just need an original Atari RGB monitor and cable, and to get around to repairing the joysticks I got with it. (all told the entire lot of Atari STe stuff I was given is worth about 400 quid, and some of the games I was given have never been opened and are still in the shrink wrap)
Thank you for the tip on the power supply. The PS of my Atari broke down recently, and I used the Meanwell RD50 as a (kind-of) drop in replacement. I decided to completely remove the cover of the powersupply instead of going around with a dremel or other tools.. Just two holes in the Powersupply bracket in the ST to mount the meanwell.
For the power supply, you could in future consider the Meanwell RPD-60A. This is a smaller board with no casing that should fit very nicely. Power connections are via plug-on terminals, but you can also desolder the sockets and solder wires directly into the PCB - which is what I do with the RPT-60B boards I use as replacement Amiga power supplies
40:34 if the drill stopped abrupt (the Driller will be stuck in the metal sheet) your fingers will be cut from the metal part! Never do this to hold a metal sheet (plate) by hand during drilling it! it is dangerous - but if you're in hospital that will hurt too. To this switching power supply first measure it before connecting it - sometimes came out 6,5V on the 5V side! so Jan Beta also metioned!
I can completely understand your excitement about an old computer in unknown condition. It is like an 'Überraschungsei' for adults (at least for some adults). And your converted your excitement in an very exciting video. Thanks for that.
Just did the same power supply replacement this morning. It was a very tight fit. The mains cable section in my STE had far more there in terms of insulation protection so I could not push the mean well as far back towards the power switch. The cable to the mother board is only just long enough. I did desolder these original power supply rather than cut them so it may have been better if I had kept the original crimped part as this would have extended the 5v/12v just a little more and made it easier to connect them if I had crimped the spade connections on to the crimped ones used to solder those 5v/12v lines to the original power supply.
Also. I would consider buying TOS 2.16 which is a modern TOS replacement for the STE that will give you excellent compatibility with games, new features, speed and better hard drive compatibility. Supporting Petari, a “god” in Atari ST community is bonus.
Im surprised, actually, i am a Commodore Amiga 500 (expanded) owner, kept it in pristine condition since my teen years, never seen inside a Atari 1040 ST before, it does looks very different than the amiga design, love your videos Jan, you are trully an artist, anyone else wouldnt bother much about these wonderful machines, sadly. Well done! Subscribed & liked!
I used to own the 1040 with all the upgrades. Played many hours of a flight simulator called Pro Flight, Panavia Tornado fighter/bomber sim; great fun.
Am I the only one that, when Jan mentions PCBWay, overdubs Perifractic's "PCB WAAAAAAY" in my head, and when Jan unscrews stuff, overdubs Perifractics's (very pretty) wife's "eee awww eee awww", also in my head?
Excellent video! I am also in the process of an ST restore, so I was excited when I saw your video in my feed. I'm using the Mean Well RPD-60A as a replacement power supply. The install was a little easier, as compared to yours, as the RPD-60A is quite a bit smaller. The size is 4.00" L x 2.00" W x 1.14" H (101.6mm x 50.8mm x 29.0mm). The power specs are less though (5V @ 5A, 12V @ 2A).
13:17 I believe the screen flicker when drive is being accessed is normal on the ST's. Mine do it. I even tried to recap my Mega ST4 PS and it still does it.
For any future modders. The PICO PSU is a better/easier upgrade that uses a standard small 12V external power brick connected to the ST via a DC barrel plug. Removes the heat from any internal PSU and makes the entire computer lighter.
When I recapped my C64 I was so nervous that I checked the board after EVERY capacitor. Thankfully there were only 6 in that board revision. I'm glad I didn't get an older one with like 20 of them. I'm not surprised, but the SD2IEC still doesn't work. Either it's my home made power supply running at 4.5V or the SD2IEC is faulty. But the C64 works perfectly according to the diagnostic harness.
Used to have a 520STFM upgraded to 1040STFM when I lived at home in the day. When I left my mother gave it away without asking me. Wish I still had it.
Oh, sorry to hear that. I guess there was a time when nobody thought about pulling the old machines out again and many just went to the dumpster/were sold etc.
tbh in my experience the most common floppy drive issues are misaligned heads, is a pain in the ass tbh, you need to unscrew just enough to be able to move the upper head and gently move it backward or forward and screw it again and it's trial and error (at least for the 3,5" ones). Also can be the track 1 sensor, that one can also be misaligned and when the drive goes to the 1st track the sensor says that it's on the 1st one but in reality it's in another one (this one is more uncommon at least in older drives), and its the same, move it and screw it again and trial and error. I spent HOURS trying to fix a disk drive doing this and i was able to do it but i wish i would give up lol.
Awesome video! Could you share please what type of setup you have to output the video to your monitor? I also have an 1040STf that I found for $80 USD! My understanding is that the output on this one is limited, there is no Composite output.... Can you share this? Thank you!
You should have tried the floppy drive with the new power supply. You said whenever the drive started the picture dimmed. Chances are the supply wasn't supplying enough power to it to wake it work correctly.
Thanks Stefano! More videos coming. I think I actually checked the voltages under load but left the footage out because this one was already too long. ;)
It seems to me that the flooppy head is trying to read sector 0 over and over. There is a limit switch sensor that should be triggered when the head reachs the edge that you can see at minute 17:42. Maybe this sensor is not closing or the board is misreading the signal.
Nah. Atari looks like a corporate product put together by old men discussing around a table trying to imagine customers needs, while Amiga looks like made by great minds and creative team who created the perfect product for themselves.
I have a similar meanwell PSU for my A1200, only it also has the -12V output. The problem is the adjustment for +5V also moves the 12V lines and since the A1200 has an external PSU there's a cable into the machine and I have to adjust the voltage up on the 5V line on the PSU and this lifts the 12V way too high, especially since most of the current draw is on the 5V line anyways. Sucks. I think I'll have to put a couple of diodes inline with the 12V line to not overvoltage the thing.
14:55 das ist nicht der speedsensor. bzw schon aber auch der index puls damit das lauwerk weis wo die spur anfängt und wo aufhört. damit es mit dem timing auch die daten richtig lesen kann
You propably should have soldered the new blue/brown mains leads sideways to the power switch. Now there is tight bend at where the solder infused wires end creating a weaker point and also the clearance to the PSU's casing would have been greater.
Hello Jan.. Great stuff. Question I can't find my channel on my TV with RF. Do you think if i bought a ST scart cable it might still work? I have atari520. Thanks in advanced.
I actually bought the exact same model last year in a lot with the matching crt for $50 CAD (not sure if good price but i was excited!) I don't know much about repairing older computers unfortunately so haven't plugged it in lest something explode inside😭 I hope this series will come in handy as reference material.
The Jackintosh Lives. I have only seen 1 ST up close at a friends house. He used it to run a BBS. I don't recall which model it was but it was an early version for sure. Only thing I remember was thinking how nice it looked. DRI's GEM at the time also shipped with some PC Clones another friend had it but I don't recall if he ever used it or not. I like Meanwell Power Supplies I have then powering my A500, A500 and A1200 and I have a spare but I also have one powering one of my Industrial Control Panels. They are reasonably priced and reliable. One thing about the ST is they had quite a few model variants designated by the letters at the end of the model number. The control ports being under the computer are not so desirable not clear why they did that other than cost reduction to keep their BOM cost low. I still think they are nice looking computers.
I had an Atari 520 STFM first then upgraded later to an Atari 520 STE model which had an easy RAM upgrade option so I very soon upgraded it to 1 meg RAM. Many years later I felt nostalgic and ordered an Atari 1024 STE from eBay and booted it up. Works fine except for one thing, the Blitter option is disabled. So I wonder if it just needs a new blitter chip or maybe there is something else wrong with it. The seller was kind about the fault as it was sold as fully working, he did a partial refund and also sent a bunch of disks he found lying around for it as compensation 🙂
Great video Jan! I am particularly interested in what you do with this machine because I have a 1040STFM that was donated to me sitting in my closet for a couple years. It would be cool to see you install a Gotek drive in it because that's what I'm planning to do with mine but not sure how the mounting of it would work.
I got a 1040STF myself a few months ago, it was really cheap because it had a broken floppy drive which I just replaced with a Gotek emulator. Since the F model has a really weird video setup I was afraid that it wouldn't display anything properly but it worked fine with a SCART cable I got from eBay, not sure if the cable has some trickery inside it work on a modern display but it worked, however on my CRT TV it displays opposite colors for some reason as the TOS background color is pink, couldn't find any explanation for that as it was fine on the flat TV Great machine although I prefer my A500 because of the sound, the ST sound chip does have it's own charm though. Mine is also in german which I didn't really account for when I ordered but even though I don't speak german I don't think it's that important and I could change the TOS if I really needed it. I might try to save the floppy drive now that you made a video of doing that, haven't really dealt with them before so I wasn't sure how to troubleshoot especially since i had no floppies to try it with
Oh, interesting fault with the inverted colors. Didn't see anything like that before (except maybe with broken cables and such). The Amiga sound chip has a much different approach as it is sample based. The Atari has a real "synthesizer" that actually generates waveforms by itself. So it's a whole different story. And I agree, it is very interesting in its own right. :)
"TOS background color is pink"... oh wait, where have I seen this before? Ah, on my very own 520STM connected via Original Atari Scart-cable (which is composite, not RGB, has some missing pins) to my old Loewe Xelos A26 LCD-TV: flic.kr/p/RLKwL5 😁 Afaik also my 2019er 1040STF from ebay shows this effect. So it doesn't matter if the ST has a RF-modulator (the M in 520STM) or not. As you might know, the modulator influences the output on the monitor-connector, the "M" has a composite-signal at a pin, where the "non-M" has a sync-signal. All if I remember correctly. Another ebay-Scart-cable with RGB produces some other behavior on that specific TV. It's quite a complex story, to build THE perfect Scart-cable for the ST. Just do a google-search. 😉 ...or buy a OSSC as Jan (and I ^^) did. It produces awesome pic-quality with the ST on any of my three PC-monitors. You don't even have to bother about the 15KHz-barrier, because the OSSC converts the signal into convenient 31,x KHz! 😎 Btw. Jan, did you already flash your OSSC (1.6 i presume?) to the latest 0.85a version? This gives you an onscreen-display, so you can see the actual OSSC-LCD on your monitor! Nice feature imho, especially your OSSC is a bit away from you.
@@TPau65 Somehow I came back to this video and found my old comment.. anyway, I solved the inverted color problem long time ago, turns out the cheap SCART -> SCART+AUX adapter I bought off ebay for plugging in my speakers when using the CRT had the pins soldered wrong, the pins for green and green ground were opposite.. the reason why it worked on my modern TV is because I didn't need that adapter as the TV had aux output built in
Replacing capacitors on disk drives seems really hard, most people don't bother with it because it's impossible to then calibrate the drive again with the new variations present in the caps.
I am going to try some of these mods. I ordered the power supply which also came without the plastic covering for the screw terminals. I found and bought the correct part, but it came in a 10-pack, so have 9 spares! If anyone is interested in these and finds a way of messaging me then please let me know. If not, I guess I’ll check for replies to this comment sometime. @JanBeta: if you need one then I’ll send you one as a “thank you” for this nice video guide!
If you want to use nicer mice, I built as a kit an Atari-ST/Amiga (jumper selectable) to PS/2 Mouse converter from ebay several years ago. By now, there must be USB mouse versions. I have an original 520-ST I upgraded to 2.5mb with a vintage adapter from a company called AERCO from Texas USA. And, a few years ago I added an upgraded set of TOS chips. I also have a MagicSac (Mac 128/512k Compatibility) with the Transporter One that reads Mac Disks directly on the ST. I also have the next generation Spectre GCR that can give an ST Mac Plus compatibility as well as read Mac Floppies. Someone who passed away left me his Mega ST. I don't have the original keyboard, but I have an adapter to use a PC/XT keyboard with it. It also came with a SCSI adapter and two hard drives.
Yes there are quite some different mainboard-layouts of the 1040STF(M). My 1040STF from late 1988 looks like this: flic.kr/p/23yDqED As you can see heavily re-organized, less RAM-chips and only two TOS-ROMs. If you're going to do a Gotek-mod, I really recommend a special STF-frame, which fits quite perfectly in the case, without case modifications. Another advantage of that frame: The Gotek-PCB is positioned upside down, so you don't have to twist the ribbon-cable and connect it just like the original drive. You can find the frame on ebay, also one for the Amiga 500 etc. Looks like this: flic.kr/p/2cV9FYB , flic.kr/p/2dFroth My complete ST-album (520 and 1040): flic.kr/s/aHsmyrFUTL Some videos about this in my YT-channel. 😀
I live in Asia now but still have a few Atari ST's in UK .. one being a 1040 STFM loved them computers .. I so miss the real thing emulators dont match up !!
Yes, glorious machines. I also thought I could live with a good emulator until I fixed my first retro machine a couple of years ago (a C64). It's just so much better to have the actual machine!
That really bugs me too. Even those "patches", that are probably external power rails. I would have patched on the solder side of the board rather than the component one.
That was the first thing I noticed. Not the RAM, but that cap. At first I thought it was just laying around. And then I'm like.....wait no, that's actually soldered in!
I have an stfm but disk drive does not wok well not sure if its the drive or the compute yet ,i do not want to cut the case to fit a gotek i want it as is ,i am an amiga fan but the atari st is a geat machine and in my opinion is still a better looking machine than the a500.
In ST there is almost no load on 12V line except floppy drive, and when you load jest 5V on this MeanWell PSU, its 12V line will go well over 13V. I'd recap the original PSU, and leave it in the computer. P.S. This RD-50 fits better sideways. Mounting like you did, you have 230VAC very close to the keyboard PCB.
That's true but it didn't fit that well sideways because the plate it's sitting on is bent up (for the screws) in the wrong positions. I'm definitely going to put some kind of additional insulation on the live terminals when I finish the refurb.
Not my experience with Meanwell supplies - they have their feedback taken from the 5V line, so as long as 5V is minimum loaded, the other rails are fine
You'd have been better off mounting that supply 90 degrees clockwise, it required the same cutting on the supply on the bottom, but fit the keyboard and rf shielding perfectly in that orientation. That's how I mounted mine on the 1040ste I upgraded back in the end of 2018 after watching your video of the mega upgrade.
Yes, saw pictures of that in some forum, makes sense. I kind of liked the idea to make the DC connections as short as possible. There's also a smaller version of the PSU that fits both ways and has enough ooomph to power the Atari. Maybe I'll look into that next time I get one of these on my bench. :)
@@JanBeta If it was over on AtariAge, it was most likely my pictures. Depending on how you route your power cables to the motherboard, you can use the whole RF shield, I opted to leave off the RF shield part that goes over the power supply simply because the supply was cased already, so I didn't feel that part was necessary. I most likely wouldn't have ever thought to use that particular supply myself if I hadn't watched your Mega ST modification video, so thanks for the original idea :).
The gem booted from rom much quicker after the recapping, probably because the defective drive was causing it to hang before and wasn’t connected. They never thought to give the user any feedback on what that the computer is doing back in the day, just sit there and wait and pray it gets to the desktop.
I think with the drive disconnected, it doesn't look for a boot disk so it starts from ROM immediately. The long delay is the same with a working drive and no boot disk I think.
the OEM floppy drives in the STF was a very common failure. I my area, many were replaced with a standard PC drive, and case was modified to fit the drive face.
the casing also is RF shielding as well reducing RF noise that can show in pic signal to monitor. that is why some of the MB has metal boxes around some components like the Video out circuit for the same reasons. PSU's tend to be really RF Noisy.
My father taught me when I was young, that watching a skilled craftsman working is something to appreciate. With the sole exception of the bent corner, that power supply replacement looks better than something from a factory build. Great job as always.
I have a 520STe that was given to me as a gift by a customer who before he gifted it to me became a good friend, and I absolutely adore it, I've fully recapped the entire system, fitted it with 4MB of RAM, a gotek floppy emulator, an ultrasatan HDD emulator and upgraded it to TOS 2.06. It's a gorgeous machine and I'm delighted to have it in my collection.
I found that the original PSU can be made good again by replacing all of the caps with low esr Nichicon/Panasonic caps, once I did that the screen no longer dims when accessing the floppy drive (before I replaced it with the gotek) and while the PSU still gets unnervingly hot after long use, it's not given me a lick of trouble, and in conjunction with an RGB SCART cable the picture is crystal clear even in low res mode, whereas before I recapped it the image was fuzzy and distorted, some PSUs may still exhibit screen dimming, mine doesn't but that might not be true for others.
Now I just need an original Atari RGB monitor and cable, and to get around to repairing the joysticks I got with it. (all told the entire lot of Atari STe stuff I was given is worth about 400 quid, and some of the games I was given have never been opened and are still in the shrink wrap)
Fantastic video mate! Thank you for putting in the work, did the same install with no issues and even the rf shield fit nicely
Thank you for the tip on the power supply. The PS of my Atari broke down recently, and I used the Meanwell RD50 as a (kind-of) drop in replacement. I decided to completely remove the cover of the powersupply instead of going around with a dremel or other tools.. Just two holes in the Powersupply bracket in the ST to mount the meanwell.
Thank you for this! Super helpful, and I am about to replace a 520STE power supply myself.
You’ve really helped me! :)
For the power supply, you could in future consider the Meanwell RPD-60A. This is a smaller board with no casing that should fit very nicely. Power connections are via plug-on terminals, but you can also desolder the sockets and solder wires directly into the PCB - which is what I do with the RPT-60B boards I use as replacement Amiga power supplies
Jan, you are becoming my hero ;) Thank you for this super interesting video of my all time favorite computer on this planet!
40:34 if the drill stopped abrupt (the Driller will be stuck in the metal sheet) your fingers will be cut from the metal part! Never do this to hold a metal sheet (plate) by hand during drilling it! it is dangerous - but if you're in hospital that will hurt too. To this switching power supply first measure it before connecting it - sometimes came out 6,5V on the 5V side! so Jan Beta also metioned!
I can completely understand your excitement about an old computer in unknown condition. It is like an 'Überraschungsei' for adults (at least for some adults). And your converted your excitement in an very exciting video. Thanks for that.
I like the Atari ST. I found a working one in my trashbin. I refurbished it and it works fine!
I found every day a defect Atari in my trash can - too! No I don't I'm not so a happy person like you! I have a Atari 800XL in 1983.
3:13 Marvels at all the RAM chippies, ignores the ginormous electrolytic right in the middle of the mainboard! 😂
Just did the same power supply replacement this morning. It was a very tight fit. The mains cable section in my STE had far more there in terms of insulation protection so I could not push the mean well as far back towards the power switch. The cable to the mother board is only just long enough. I did desolder these original power supply rather than cut them so it may have been better if I had kept the original crimped part as this would have extended the 5v/12v just a little more and made it easier to connect them if I had crimped the spade connections on to the crimped ones used to solder those 5v/12v lines to the original power supply.
I found one in a thrift store near mint several years ago. I love it!
Finally the nemesis of the Amiga 500 :-)
AMIGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
@@gaborszabo6406 CRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP
Hahahhahahahaha yeah, bless, of course they were.
@@HuntersMoon78 You will burn in the hell and you should play midnight resistance an a spectrum forever!!
This is an awesomme friday treat day. First retrocengo had an A500 and now you have an AtariST. What a glorious friday. 😋😋🤘
Oh, I have to watch Retrocengos video, too. :)
My Atari STE is working again !!! 1000 Dank.. Beste Grüße aus Bremerhaven 🎉
Early STF drives were only single sided 360kb drives. You can use a 720 pc floppy drive directly in as a replacement.
Great job Jan Beta. Thankx for sharing with us. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
Always enjoy your stuff Jan, your upbeat and informative approach is fantastic!
Also. I would consider buying TOS 2.16 which is a modern TOS replacement for the STE that will give you excellent compatibility with games, new features, speed and better hard drive compatibility. Supporting Petari, a “god” in Atari ST community is bonus.
Im surprised, actually, i am a Commodore Amiga 500 (expanded) owner, kept it in pristine condition since my teen years, never seen inside a Atari 1040 ST before, it does looks very different than the amiga design, love your videos Jan, you are trully an artist, anyone else wouldnt bother much about these wonderful machines, sadly. Well done! Subscribed & liked!
I used to own the 1040 with all the upgrades. Played many hours of a flight simulator called Pro Flight, Panavia Tornado fighter/bomber sim; great fun.
Am I the only one that, when Jan mentions PCBWay, overdubs Perifractic's "PCB WAAAAAAY" in my head, and when Jan unscrews stuff, overdubs Perifractics's (very pretty) wife's "eee awww eee awww", also in my head?
Im with you on the PCBWayyyyy but i could do without squeaky squeaky.
I’m with you on the PCB Waaaaayyyy bit, but until now I didn’t hear the eeer awww bit. Thanks to you, I’m probably going to hear it too, now.
The tiny magnet glued onto the hub motor and Hall effect sensor on the PCB was not an Atari thing specifically; I observed it in many PC drives.
Excellent video! I am also in the process of an ST restore, so I was excited when I saw your video in my feed. I'm using the Mean Well RPD-60A as a replacement power supply. The install was a little easier, as compared to yours, as the RPD-60A is quite a bit smaller. The size is 4.00" L x 2.00" W x 1.14" H (101.6mm x 50.8mm x 29.0mm). The power specs are less though (5V @ 5A, 12V @ 2A).
Thanks! Makes sense to use the smaller supply, had that on my list, too, if I remember correctly. Power should still be plenty obviously. :)
Jan, literally cutting corners on his repairs :)
13:17 I believe the screen flicker when drive is being accessed is normal on the ST's. Mine do it. I even tried to recap my Mega ST4 PS and it still does it.
Mine doesn't, never has.
Jan Beta second year in a row finishing the year with some solid videos!
For any future modders. The PICO PSU is a better/easier upgrade that uses a standard small 12V external power brick connected to the ST via a DC barrel plug. Removes the heat from any internal PSU and makes the entire computer lighter.
When I recapped my C64 I was so nervous that I checked the board after EVERY capacitor. Thankfully there were only 6 in that board revision. I'm glad I didn't get an older one with like 20 of them. I'm not surprised, but the SD2IEC still doesn't work. Either it's my home made power supply running at 4.5V or the SD2IEC is faulty. But the C64 works perfectly according to the diagnostic harness.
Used to have a 520STFM upgraded to 1040STFM when I lived at home in the day. When I left my mother gave it away without asking me. Wish I still had it.
Oh, sorry to hear that. I guess there was a time when nobody thought about pulling the old machines out again and many just went to the dumpster/were sold etc.
tbh in my experience the most common floppy drive issues are misaligned heads, is a pain in the ass tbh, you need to unscrew just enough to be able to move the upper head and gently move it backward or forward and screw it again and it's trial and error (at least for the 3,5" ones).
Also can be the track 1 sensor, that one can also be misaligned and when the drive goes to the 1st track the sensor says that it's on the 1st one but in reality it's in another one (this one is more uncommon at least in older drives), and its the same, move it and screw it again and trial and error. I spent HOURS trying to fix a disk drive doing this and i was able to do it but i wish i would give up lol.
Could you have not removed the MW power supply from its enclosure, rather than modifying the enclosure?
this. if you want to use the RF shield, no need to keep the meanwell RF shield. just remove it and it will probably mount better as well.
Very, very nice video indeed Jan, lots of information and effort !
So, what was censored there at 30:45, lower edge of the screen?
his address
When I saw that I'm like.......that's porn!!! hahaha I was just kidding though.
I also see by your picture that your a fan of Strife!!! I love that game so much.
@@awilliams1701 Yeppers, sure am :D
Awesome work as always JB!! Looking forward to seeing the case and keys getting some TLC!!
Awesome video! Could you share please what type of setup you have to output the video to your monitor? I also have an 1040STf that I found for $80 USD! My understanding is that the output on this one is limited, there is no Composite output.... Can you share this? Thank you!
You should have tried the floppy drive with the new power supply. You said whenever the drive started the picture dimmed. Chances are the supply wasn't supplying enough power to it to wake it work correctly.
He did. Read the other comments.
Wery satisfying to watch :)
It would have been nice to see how stable were the voltages while on load. Great video Jan, as usual!
Thanks Stefano! More videos coming. I think I actually checked the voltages under load but left the footage out because this one was already too long. ;)
I saw Marmoset socks! Marmosocks! Also, awesome restore.
It seems to me that the flooppy head is trying to read sector 0 over and over. There is a limit switch sensor that should be triggered when the head reachs the edge that you can see at minute 17:42. Maybe this sensor is not closing or the board is misreading the signal.
Good shot! I'm going to check that. :)
Love the music selection - Focus 10 is sweet :-)
Thta PSU, re-cap it, replace the two tiny resistors next to the main reservoir cap and it'll last.
Yes I wonder why replace the whole thing and drill holes in a original mount instead of refresh the delicate parts
When you put an Amiga next to an Atari ST, you can feel that they're secretly in love with each other. They'd never admit it, though.
Nah. Atari looks like a corporate product put together by old men discussing around a table trying to imagine customers needs, while Amiga looks like made by great minds and creative team who created the perfect product for themselves.
Actually this slight flicker when moving the floppy drive's head is normal, I suppose. Mine did this the first day I got it (20 years ago).
Can confirm that.
I have a similar meanwell PSU for my A1200, only it also has the -12V output. The problem is the adjustment for +5V also moves the 12V lines and since the A1200 has an external PSU there's a cable into the machine and I have to adjust the voltage up on the 5V line on the PSU and this lifts the 12V way too high, especially since most of the current draw is on the 5V line anyways. Sucks. I think I'll have to put a couple of diodes inline with the 12V line to not overvoltage the thing.
14:55 das ist nicht der speedsensor. bzw schon aber auch der index puls damit das lauwerk weis wo die spur anfängt und wo aufhört. damit es mit dem timing auch die daten richtig lesen kann
Memories I still have my Atari 800xl with 4 different os chips piggybacked with a 4 way switch lol. Still got my 800, 130xe, st, ste lol
Oh goody. I have one of these on the floor in the living room. Nice to have someone show me how! Cheers!
You propably should have soldered the new blue/brown mains leads sideways to the power switch. Now there is tight bend at where the solder infused wires end creating a weaker point and also the clearance to the PSU's casing would have been greater.
Hello Jan.. Great stuff. Question I can't find my channel on my TV with RF. Do you think if i bought a ST scart cable it might still work? I have atari520. Thanks in advanced.
MW also makes a supply that fits the 1541.
I actually bought the exact same model last year in a lot with the matching crt for $50 CAD (not sure if good price but i was excited!)
I don't know much about repairing older computers unfortunately so haven't plugged it in lest something explode inside😭
I hope this series will come in handy as reference material.
Do you get coil whine from the new PSU also when it's operating inside the Atari?
The Jackintosh Lives. I have only seen 1 ST up close at a friends house. He used it to run a BBS. I don't recall which model it was but it was an early version for sure. Only thing I remember was thinking how nice it looked. DRI's GEM at the time also shipped with some PC Clones another friend had it but I don't recall if he ever used it or not. I like Meanwell Power Supplies I have then powering my A500, A500 and A1200 and I have a spare but I also have one powering one of my Industrial Control Panels. They are reasonably priced and reliable. One thing about the ST is they had quite a few model variants designated by the letters at the end of the model number. The control ports being under the computer are not so desirable not clear why they did that other than cost reduction to keep their BOM cost low. I still think they are nice looking computers.
I had an Atari 520 STFM first then upgraded later to an Atari 520 STE model which had an easy RAM upgrade option so I very soon upgraded it to 1 meg RAM. Many years later I felt nostalgic and ordered an Atari 1024 STE from eBay and booted it up. Works fine except for one thing, the Blitter option is disabled. So I wonder if it just needs a new blitter chip or maybe there is something else wrong with it. The seller was kind about the fault as it was sold as fully working, he did a partial refund and also sent a bunch of disks he found lying around for it as compensation 🙂
Great video Jan! I am particularly interested in what you do with this machine because I have a 1040STFM that was donated to me sitting in my closet for a couple years. It would be cool to see you install a Gotek drive in it because that's what I'm planning to do with mine but not sure how the mounting of it would work.
We have an old Atari 512 and it's built like a tank. Seems to be one of the more robust machines from the 1980s.
I have the same revision motherboard but oddly don't have that massive capacitor in the middle.
I got a 1040STF myself a few months ago, it was really cheap because it had a broken floppy drive which I just replaced with a Gotek emulator. Since the F model has a really weird video setup I was afraid that it wouldn't display anything properly but it worked fine with a SCART cable I got from eBay, not sure if the cable has some trickery inside it work on a modern display but it worked, however on my CRT TV it displays opposite colors for some reason as the TOS background color is pink, couldn't find any explanation for that as it was fine on the flat TV
Great machine although I prefer my A500 because of the sound, the ST sound chip does have it's own charm though. Mine is also in german which I didn't really account for when I ordered but even though I don't speak german I don't think it's that important and I could change the TOS if I really needed it. I might try to save the floppy drive now that you made a video of doing that, haven't really dealt with them before so I wasn't sure how to troubleshoot especially since i had no floppies to try it with
Oh, interesting fault with the inverted colors. Didn't see anything like that before (except maybe with broken cables and such). The Amiga sound chip has a much different approach as it is sample based. The Atari has a real "synthesizer" that actually generates waveforms by itself. So it's a whole different story. And I agree, it is very interesting in its own right. :)
"TOS background color is pink"... oh wait, where have I seen this before? Ah, on my very own 520STM connected via Original Atari Scart-cable (which is composite, not RGB, has some missing pins) to my old Loewe Xelos A26 LCD-TV: flic.kr/p/RLKwL5 😁
Afaik also my 2019er 1040STF from ebay shows this effect. So it doesn't matter if the ST has a RF-modulator (the M in 520STM) or not. As you might know, the modulator influences the output on the monitor-connector, the "M" has a composite-signal at a pin, where the "non-M" has a sync-signal. All if I remember correctly. Another ebay-Scart-cable with RGB produces some other behavior on that specific TV. It's quite a complex story, to build THE perfect Scart-cable for the ST. Just do a google-search. 😉
...or buy a OSSC as Jan (and I ^^) did. It produces awesome pic-quality with the ST on any of my three PC-monitors. You don't even have to bother about the 15KHz-barrier, because the OSSC converts the signal into convenient 31,x KHz! 😎
Btw. Jan, did you already flash your OSSC (1.6 i presume?) to the latest 0.85a version? This gives you an onscreen-display, so you can see the actual OSSC-LCD on your monitor! Nice feature imho, especially your OSSC is a bit away from you.
@@TPau65 Somehow I came back to this video and found my old comment.. anyway, I solved the inverted color problem long time ago, turns out the cheap SCART -> SCART+AUX adapter I bought off ebay for plugging in my speakers when using the CRT had the pins soldered wrong, the pins for green and green ground were opposite.. the reason why it worked on my modern TV is because I didn't need that adapter as the TV had aux output built in
Did you try the old floppy, after installing the new PSU ? Had to get out my old ST out of the box and try it, working great :)
What did you do to your finger???
He used power tools :P
Cut it while repairing an old computer most likely (I don't even remember when but I probably have footage of it somewhere...).
I also noticed the video improved after replacing the power supply on my C64C.
Replacing capacitors on disk drives seems really hard, most people don't bother with it because it's impossible to then calibrate the drive again with the new variations present in the caps.
Everyone needs a montage.
I found an Atari ST monitor Sc1224, Version 2...now thinking getting an ST but i don't know which one
Nice restore, that PSU is a great size for this job. Yes you could have refurbished the old one but might as well use a modern one 👍
Jan, have you tried the original FDD with the new PSU?
What are the voltage readings when it was connected to the board?
They are spot on.
Great video as always 👍🏻❤️
If you plan on using an SD hard drive solution, consider replacing the CPU to fix DMA issues with STE (MC68HC000 needed). Google for info
I don't think the STF has DMA :(
I am going to try some of these mods. I ordered the power supply which also came without the plastic covering for the screw terminals. I found and bought the correct part, but it came in a 10-pack, so have 9 spares! If anyone is interested in these and finds a way of messaging me then please let me know. If not, I guess I’ll check for replies to this comment sometime. @JanBeta: if you need one then I’ll send you one as a “thank you” for this nice video guide!
Hello Jan, your German RAUFASERTAPETE looks verry good in the Background ;-)
Seems that Jan has often "Bernd das Brot" as guest. :) (Don't worry if you don't get the joke, Jan will for sure.)
If you want to use nicer mice, I built as a kit an Atari-ST/Amiga (jumper selectable) to PS/2 Mouse converter from ebay several years ago. By now, there must be USB mouse versions. I have an original 520-ST I upgraded to 2.5mb with a vintage adapter from a company called AERCO from Texas USA. And, a few years ago I added an upgraded set of TOS chips. I also have a MagicSac (Mac 128/512k Compatibility) with the Transporter One that reads Mac Disks directly on the ST. I also have the next generation Spectre GCR that can give an ST Mac Plus compatibility as well as read Mac Floppies. Someone who passed away left me his Mega ST. I don't have the original keyboard, but I have an adapter to use a PC/XT keyboard with it. It also came with a SCSI adapter and two hard drives.
Yes there are quite some different mainboard-layouts of the 1040STF(M). My 1040STF from late 1988 looks like this: flic.kr/p/23yDqED
As you can see heavily re-organized, less RAM-chips and only two TOS-ROMs.
If you're going to do a Gotek-mod, I really recommend a special STF-frame, which fits quite perfectly in the case, without case modifications. Another advantage of that frame: The Gotek-PCB is positioned upside down, so you don't have to twist the ribbon-cable and connect it just like the original drive. You can find the frame on ebay, also one for the Amiga 500 etc.
Looks like this: flic.kr/p/2cV9FYB , flic.kr/p/2dFroth
My complete ST-album (520 and 1040): flic.kr/s/aHsmyrFUTL
Some videos about this in my YT-channel. 😀
I live in Asia now but still have a few Atari ST's in UK .. one being a 1040 STFM loved them computers .. I so miss the real thing emulators dont match up !!
Yes, glorious machines. I also thought I could live with a good emulator until I fixed my first retro machine a couple of years ago (a C64). It's just so much better to have the actual machine!
Awesome job 😎👌
Tidy layout, apart from that big 4700uF capacitor across the board :)
Yeah that Capacitor is insane 😲
Such a different look/layout to the Amiga internally.
Haha, that's true. I wonder what the engineers were thinking. :D
That really bugs me too. Even those "patches", that are probably external power rails. I would have patched on the solder side of the board rather than the component one.
That was the first thing I noticed. Not the RAM, but that cap. At first I thought it was just laying around. And then I'm like.....wait no, that's actually soldered in!
"There is no excellent beauty that hath not some strangeness in the proportion."
Francis Bacon
Usually they have a massive metal shield. This had no shield
I forgot to put it back in when i send it to jan, and now i cant find it anymore
Jesus...and I thought The 8-Bit Guy's power supply jump with paperclips was barbaric D:
And damn, you didn't title it. The music during the re-cap montage has a lot in common with Jeff Wayne's War of the Worlds.
hey Jan, since you're also in the EU, could you tell me where you order your caps from? sorry if you've already talked about this before..
I mostly order from reichelt.de and Conrad.de, rare values and such I often source from eBay.
@@JanBeta danke vielmals : )
Reading upside-down, for a second I thought the PSU was made by Tonka! =)
I have an stfm but disk drive does not wok well not sure if its the drive or the compute yet ,i do not want to cut the case to fit a gotek i want it as is ,i am an amiga fan but the atari st is a geat machine and in my opinion is still a better looking machine than the a500.
In ST there is almost no load on 12V line except floppy drive, and when you load jest 5V on this MeanWell PSU, its 12V line will go well over 13V. I'd recap the original PSU, and leave it in the computer.
P.S.
This RD-50 fits better sideways. Mounting like you did, you have 230VAC very close to the keyboard PCB.
That's true but it didn't fit that well sideways because the plate it's sitting on is bent up (for the screws) in the wrong positions. I'm definitely going to put some kind of additional insulation on the live terminals when I finish the refurb.
Not my experience with Meanwell supplies - they have their feedback taken from the 5V line, so as long as 5V is minimum loaded, the other rails are fine
@@jaycee1980 That's not true, when you have feedback from one rail only, when you load that rail only, voltage on other rails will raise above spec.
Nice work. Not sure I 100% agree with the power supply solution. Got a bit too clunky.
Did u check FDD ater psu change
Jan, have you tried the disk drive again with the new power supply?
Yes, still the same behavior as before unfortunately.
Jan why didn't you just replace parts on the original psu?
Because it would have cost nearly the same as the replacement PSU in parts and it still would be less reliable by design.
I watch you on 1.5, it's the only way to get a normal flow
You'd have been better off mounting that supply 90 degrees clockwise, it required the same cutting on the supply on the bottom, but fit the keyboard and rf shielding perfectly in that orientation. That's how I mounted mine on the 1040ste I upgraded back in the end of 2018 after watching your video of the mega upgrade.
Yes, saw pictures of that in some forum, makes sense. I kind of liked the idea to make the DC connections as short as possible. There's also a smaller version of the PSU that fits both ways and has enough ooomph to power the Atari. Maybe I'll look into that next time I get one of these on my bench. :)
@@JanBeta If it was over on AtariAge, it was most likely my pictures. Depending on how you route your power cables to the motherboard, you can use the whole RF shield, I opted to leave off the RF shield part that goes over the power supply simply because the supply was cased already, so I didn't feel that part was necessary. I most likely wouldn't have ever thought to use that particular supply myself if I hadn't watched your Mega ST modification video, so thanks for the original idea :).
atariage.com/forums/topic/288403-euro-st-works-in-north-america/?do=findComment&comment=4224300
If you want one or two Acorns to repair, tell me.
I love you, you are beautiful please give them to me
@@Wok_Agenda Ahah :-D
Hi, torsten here, the guy that donated the atari.
If you still got one left....i would take one....
I love you both :)
Oh, I would love to! I'll send you an email in a minute. :)
The gem booted from rom much quicker after the recapping, probably because the defective drive was causing it to hang before and wasn’t connected. They never thought to give the user any feedback on what that the computer is doing back in the day, just sit there and wait and pray it gets to the desktop.
I think with the drive disconnected, it doesn't look for a boot disk so it starts from ROM immediately. The long delay is the same with a working drive and no boot disk I think.
the OEM floppy drives in the STF was a very common failure. I my area, many were replaced with a standard PC drive, and case was modified to fit the drive face.
Watching zis with ze german accent is strangely fun. Ja.
Maybe nextime you can remove the metal casing of the MeanWell PSU, it's going to be exactly like the old Atari PSU
the casing also is RF shielding as well reducing RF noise that can show in pic signal to monitor. that is why some of the MB has metal boxes around some components like the Video out circuit for the same reasons. PSU's tend to be really RF Noisy.
My first 16 bit computer, I brought it off a friend, it used to cut out when it got hot. Lol. You could play it for about 40 mins
great video!
Cool, man.