Thanks for the video, I replaced both large sensors and I’m debating changing this third one. My fan is not kicking on, 1998 Honda Civic. The temperature gauge is working fine, would replacing the switch fix the no fan kick on issue? Thank you I appreciate it.
The sender I replaced in the video is only for the temp reading on the gauge cluster. You need to possibly replace the sensor on the t-stat housing. That one controls the fan off and on. But I would jumper your fan first and make sure it actually works... hope this helps
Hey man thanks for the video. I’ve got two questions I’m hoping to get some help with. I can’t find the sending unit anywhere online. Only results I’m getting are for the sensors. My next question is my current unit has one wire tied around it. Is it supposed to be like this no cover or rubber? This is the first time I’ve needed to change one of these. Thanks
Hey there, there should be lots of places to buy a sensor. I just did a quick Google search and found one from about 4 places. Maybe try calling Napa, Autozone, O'Reillys. The original connecter is a bullet style connector with a cone style rubber boot. If yours is not like that somebody has messed with it.
@@Spanky-so9uiI was able to find one appreciate your help. The previous owner did so much to this car I’ve been fixing it for four months now so I wouldn’t be surprised lol. Thanks
@@Spanky-so9uihey man sorry for the 20 questions, would you happen to know what size connector I’m gonna need? I replaced the unit but it still didn’t wanna work so I figured maybe just bad connection. I got some male and female bullet connectors that didn’t end up fitting.
Basically hand tight then just a snug after that. Use a 1/4in drive ratchet to get her the proper tightness. If I remember there will be threads still sticking out.... hope that helps👍
Hello, I have a problem in my Honda domani that it takes a long time to raise the temperature and is unstable. I put a new thermostat on the car and the thermostat works well, then looking in manuals I realized that sensor could be damaged, could you tell me what the resistance value is from that sensor very good video and thank you very much for the content of the channel
Hey sorry for the late reply. UA-cam never told me I had a comment. The resistance for a cold sending unit is 142 ohms and 85 degrees c and above should be 32- 49 ohms of resistance. Hope this helps thanks for watching
Pull the black boot back. Then pull the connector off the post of the sender. U could use a small screwdriver to lever againt the sender to get the connector off. Hope this helps.
@@Spanky-so9ui Ok, so just pull it off...i didn't feel any release levers and I didn't want to break it, but really couldn't seen any other way it was gonna come off other than pulling. Thanks.
Ok. Your next step then is. Ground the connector, then go turn the key on. The temp needle should go to the top of the range. If the needle does not move. Then you have a wiring or ecu issue.
Thank you for the video ! I accidentally ripped the cable from the boot and had to put some wires together .. it was a nightmare
Thanks for the video. Good job. Do I need to put something on the threads to seal the new temp sender to avoid leaking coolant? thank you
If I remember correctly it had a sealant on it. No don't put anything on it as u need the sender body to ground to the engine. Glad this helped
Thanks for the video, I replaced both large sensors and I’m debating changing this third one. My fan is not kicking on, 1998 Honda Civic. The temperature gauge is working fine, would replacing the switch fix the no fan kick on issue? Thank you I appreciate it.
The sender I replaced in the video is only for the temp reading on the gauge cluster. You need to possibly replace the sensor on the t-stat housing. That one controls the fan off and on. But I would jumper your fan first and make sure it actually works... hope this helps
Hey man thanks for the video. I’ve got two questions I’m hoping to get some help with. I can’t find the sending unit anywhere online. Only results I’m getting are for the sensors. My next question is my current unit has one wire tied around it. Is it supposed to be like this no cover or rubber? This is the first time I’ve needed to change one of these. Thanks
Hey there, there should be lots of places to buy a sensor. I just did a quick Google search and found one from about 4 places. Maybe try calling Napa, Autozone, O'Reillys. The original connecter is a bullet style connector with a cone style rubber boot. If yours is not like that somebody has messed with it.
@@Spanky-so9uiI was able to find one appreciate your help. The previous owner did so much to this car I’ve been fixing it for four months now so I wouldn’t be surprised lol. Thanks
@@Spanky-so9uihey man sorry for the 20 questions, would you happen to know what size connector I’m gonna need? I replaced the unit but it still didn’t wanna work so I figured maybe just bad connection. I got some male and female bullet connectors that didn’t end up fitting.
@Diabetus901
Test wiring by Grounding wire. Turn key on, temp display will go to full hot. If it doesn't you have a wiring issue
My connector and cable got ripped apart,
Do you know what is the connector name or part number?
Thanks
Same shit happened to me, I'm looking for the same answer. I need the actual plug
Is that sensor has no wire plug, just there by itself?
Question? When you say bleed your radiator coolant, do you bleed it out empty? or just burp it a few times, and then add anti freeze coolant?
I mean, run it with the cap off until the engine gets warm. To get all the air out of the system. Sorry for the confusion
Quick question did you tighten it all the way or did you leave a couple threads out
Basically hand tight then just a snug after that. Use a 1/4in drive ratchet to get her the proper tightness. If I remember there will be threads still sticking out.... hope that helps👍
@@Spanky-so9ui got it appreciate it because I replaced it not that long ago and I completely tightened it and now it started to lose coolant
Hello, I have a problem in my Honda domani that it takes a long time to raise the temperature and is unstable. I put a new thermostat on the car and the thermostat works well, then looking in manuals I realized that sensor could be damaged, could you tell me what the resistance value is from that sensor very good video and thank you very much for the content of the channel
Hey sorry for the late reply. UA-cam never told me I had a comment. The resistance for a cold sending unit is 142 ohms and 85 degrees c and above should be 32- 49 ohms of resistance. Hope this helps thanks for watching
Does the boot look like this:
======][=][====] ?
how does the wire/connector come off? mine has a top that can slide off, but know if I should just pull hard on it or what.
Pull the black boot back. Then pull the connector off the post of the sender. U could use a small screwdriver to lever againt the sender to get the connector off. Hope this helps.
@@Spanky-so9ui Ok, so just pull it off...i didn't feel any release levers and I didn't want to break it, but really couldn't seen any other way it was gonna come off other than pulling. Thanks.
Ok sounds good. It's nice to have a working temp gauge 😀
Hey My gauges is not working in my car I replaced the coolant temperature sensor the gauges is still not working what could it be ???
So just to clarify you mean you changed the sender as in the video. Not Temp sensor like you say above?
@@Spanky-so9ui I only change the coolant temperature sensor not the sender
@@Spanky-so9ui Will that be the problem the reason why my gauge is not working
Yes you need to replace the sender. Like I did I'm the video. The sensor is for the ecu. The sender controls the gauge😀
@@Spanky-so9ui I appreciate it thank you bro
I did this but it still not working in the dashbord
Ok. Your next step then is. Ground the connector, then go turn the key on. The temp needle should go to the top of the range. If the needle does not move. Then you have a wiring or ecu issue.