MASSIVE SWELL Kicks Off East Coast WINTER!
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- Опубліковано 21 гру 2023
- -- Season 3: Episode 34 --
The first big winter swell of the '23/'24 season has hit Cape Hatteras. But is it too big? The crew hunted and finally found somewhere random handling the swell... and tubes were had!
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SURF VIDEOGRAPHY:
Real Watersports - bit.ly/2GXyE8W
Jeffrey O'Neil - bit.ly/2G2QlGa
Cody Hammer -bit.ly/Cody_Hammer
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Music Provided by Artlist: artlist.io
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#Surfing #OuterBanks #WinterStorm - Розваги
I WILL FOREVER JOKE ABOUT IT BEING "HEAD HIGH" from now on 😆
I'm still so baffled that what we looked and, and what we paddled out into, were the same place haha. Just goes to show how BIG it was everywhere else in comparison i guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Brett. I comment from time to time on your videos, as they are first class, and always puts a smile on my face. I grew up spending summers in Nags Head, Duck, Corolla, for a little over 3p years. Ever since I was a little kid, I have always wanted to go down to cape point on Hatteras. It’s like, if you look at a map of the east coast of the United States for a few seconds and point to a spot, there’s a good chance your finger lands on that peculiar looking point in the middle of that long, thin, bow of land off of mainland North Carolina. Water to the North, East, South, and a lagoon to the West so large that you cannot see the mainland, shifting sands and violent storms, powered by the unimaginable power of the Gulf Stream, give and take from the landscape seemingly in the blink of an eye. Its unique to the extent that some species of flora have adapted with their own unique characteristics that distinguish them from others of the same species found elsewhere. My wife and I made our way down to Corolla for a family vacation this past July, and, of course, I rambled about the natural beauty, and uniqueness, and the different places to see. My wife is from Brazil, so she can be a little critical on the subject of beach quality. I once again told her that I really want to make it down to the cape, and after all these years I never have. Later in the week we packed a few thing and made the drive down from Corolla-quicker than I thought we would. My wife was blown away by the stories of continuous tug-of-war between the sea reclaiming land, new inlets created from storms, new islands exposed, only to later be taken back by the sea. As we drove over the New Bridge in Rodanthe, I explained that the bridge was build not too long ago, the result of being decimated by hurricanes Irene and Sandy. We turned onto that long, narrow, winding paved road of highway 12, with the sand blowing across the surface in the wind, and lined with live oaks, brush, and salt marsh. It looked so wild and unblemished. We parked the car in the lot, held our flip flops and hiked up that dunes, and we were both moved taking it all in. Equal parts power and beauty, the water from a distance was a shade of turquoise that I’d have expected in the Maldives, not in North Carolina. At waste high the water was crystal clear, clean, and 86 degrees. The sand bars in site were soft powder, while closer to shore, lines of the most wild array of shells, some of which, presumably pushed along from equatorial waters by the Gulf Stream. In the distance the breakers curled, the water white capped, slowly curling blue green, surfers here and there, but so much space, so vast as the beach curves out to the point, where, in the distance, you could see the currents from north to south colliding with such force . There were people checkered in small groups as far as I could see, but when I closed my eyes I could only hear the sound of the ocean, sandpipers and gulls, the smell of the salty clean air, the hot sun beating down on my skin. I imaged this place to be as close to what the first Europeans might have seen when their boats first anchored nearby. I never thought it would be this mejestic, or leave such a powerful feeling inside me. My wife and I both agreed, that place is truly paradise. I hope it never changes.
***Wow! Sorry for the ramble. You are truly very lucky to have such a place in your back yard?
LOL Brett, due to the inconsistent nature of surf on the East Coast (we have some
looooooooooooong
summers), will it work the other way too?
Real Wave Size=6 inches
Stated Wave Size=Head High
It's always Head High on the East Coast.😉🤙
My brother and I used to cross from VA to vacation and bodyboard Nags Head as groms in the early 80's. Graduated to Hatteras in the late 80's-mid 90's. Started at the Lighthouse which was right by the shore then, unbelievable move. The Lighthouse was firing on all cylinders then. Three well defined sections, launch pad right beside (feet away) from the first groin, freght train barrel second section (get spit out there or), on the best days a long often unmakable inside section. Sometimes the swell would hit it just right and shrink as it went down the line of that inside section and barrel right to the sand, less than a handful of those on the best days. I got one on a four foot overhead to occasional double overhead as perfect as it gets blue water day and was deeply barreled through entire middle section, didn't come out, barreled through the inside, got to the end and my head popped out as the end collapsed on my body. It was two feet high at that point and I washed right up on shore. I went a long way in the barrel.
Later, had to get a 4×4 as it was legal to drive on most of the beach then, from first ramp after Rodanthe to Avon and more on the beach. There was much more beach. Three big natural dune lines at Pea Island, couldn't drive there. Caught waves at the boilers and marked good bars with sticks in the sand at Pea Island. On the right swell angle gotta stop and check the sticks. Those dunes have been gone for decades now. No outer bars made for better chances of larger high-quality surf. Bigger than Head High haha. It became more fickle as those dunes and all that sand was deposited offshore. There's still some good days as your videos show, but not as consistent, especially as the swell gets bigger.
I took a break from the beach, went to college, graduated and moved to the Virginia Beach oceanfront. I bought the first of several boards and learned to stand up. Boards shrunk over time. A life dedicated to the ocean leads to some amazing experiences.
Stay Stoked
YEEEEEUWWW!
Brett... I came up with huge surfing innovation recently - this one isn't patentable really - I'll tell you why later - or at least I don't care about the patent on this one. It is revolutionary though and you could use it very soon. Will change the way we surf. I just need to hear some voices. Some excitement. Does anyone like surfing anymore?
Wow some challenging Surf their Brett Great video
Much much Aloha.
And merry chdismiss to you your family and friends. And God bless you all❤😊
Subnator
The beach view of these East Coast swells is terrifying. Like you're swimming into a storm at sea. Just getting outside is an accomplishment.
Thanks for being our NC east coast ambassador!! Get up the awesome work!!
thanks for the support!
10:49 the money drop 🤙🏼💯 Bett went full savage mode, North Sentinel Board Riders for Life 🤙🏼🇨🇷😎
East Coast surfers anxiety is knowing the swells going to drop by the hour and you’re literally running to the ocean
Not totally true… but when it’s massive you’re only going to get one ride cycle to get a shot at the biggest waves. Opportunity to catch a 15’ face barrel here is very rare… so yes, those moments are fleeting. But a day of 6’-8’ surf that lasts dawn to dusk isn’t wild.
Not totally but mostly; numerous times a wind shift & poof. Not so much on W. coast @@brettbarley
Well it’s more-so true for the rest of the coast… our swells here last longer with more power.
@@brettbarleyReef Road Palm Beach FL and Montauk are the only east coast places I can think of that hold at 15+ but it’s rare - couple days a year?
@@jonahhex9620I surf reef road all the time the mass of swells only happened once every like 5-8 use but the small ones like 10 feet come probably once a year this season we’ve had two massive swells was fitting barrels. It’s been crazy but I mean we don’t really get that many swells and even if we do the conditions are always just chop.
It was sick in Jersey. I had close to double over head and grinding. Definitely way better then what you had to deal with. I get the sand thing cause it's terrible here 😂. It changes every other day. Recently has been nuts in more spots then usual. I'm waiting on a bomb north swell for the South end of LBI
JC is the reason for the season , Blessings to you your family and friends
9:23 - Total money shot! Wow! I really feel blessed to have been there for this swell. Missed the full videos from ya.👏👏
nice little dig..."we measure the part you actually surf on". HAHAHAHA I agree
😂😂😂
So good to see you back in the vlog game Brett. Always loved your edits 👍
23:49 This made me a fan for life! What Christmas is all about 🙏🏼
this swell being recent and the way Brett breaks it down is what I'm here for ... like hanging on the pier after a swell and trading stories. I like it!
Is Cody Craig a mailman 9-5?? He really knows how to put it in the slot👉🏼💪🏿💪🏿
Eat your heart out Mavericks. We have huge waves and cold ass water. Great video boys !!!!
Brett thanks so much for mentioning Christmas in such a beautiful and positive way at the end of your session. Love it.
A short window is way better than No window Thanks for sharing as always my friend Be well God Bless You and Yours Merry Christmas 👍🤙
Amen to that.
Gotta give it to these guys...those are powerful waves and crazy undertows ..on top of that their level of surfing is massive on talent..the speed , brass nads , etc...I'd put this crew against the locals at pipeline any day of the week...and when they're done fighting they can duke it out surfing.
Brett knows pipeline pretty well that’s for sure
REALLY happy the vlogs are back! Thank you!
Victory!
So classic. Love it.
Great video despite the swell not lining up perfectly - Merry Christmas to everyone!
yessss love to see you back with the long form content
drone shots are A-1
Weather predicted this freak winter storm....like a hurricane
Yess!!!! 🔥 Missed Brett's full vlogs!
Thanks for posting, best of luck with your movie
Good to see you back. Happy holidays!
Brett Gnarly!
It's a FESTIVUS miracle!
Gotta love the way Brett describes the quality of the surf. Not overclaiming it. Although it's much better than where i'm at on the gulf. Keep up the good vids bro.
All about being honest here :) no need to exaggerate.
Brett, I enjoyed your video. You have to have wave knowledge at the Outer Banks in order to surf their with excellence. You've got it! It was great to hear your closing remarks about Christmas. God bless you!! 🙏
Obx sick music , sick surf ! Rock on 2023
cinematic editing is so good
9:23 absolutely dope. Great edit ❤
Great vids man! You guys scored on a tough day. Would LOVE to see the paddle out on days like this; and I can guarantee other people would too. Keep it up man! Great stuff.
BEEN WAITING FOR THIS!
You mentioned the island going through transformation. I'm sure the Gulf stream meandering closer and further away from outer banks has huge impact on how the swells meet the shore , counter eddys of current moving south , sand bar build up etc . If you can understand where the Gulf stream is geographically , I'm sure it factors the conditions quite a bit . Open to criticism .
The Gulf Stream is the god of ocean currents. It’s power and impact on a huge part of the world cannot be overstated.
@JW-xj6tw especially near the outer banks where the Gulf Stream is only several miles offshore ,or less than 20 miles .
Love the way u edit those videos man
Thanks so much! Means a lot
@@brettbarley Keep it up man! I understand the effort needed on filming, surfing and editing 🙌🏾
God bless you brother and your boldness to keep it true to your love for Jesus.
Merry Christmas Brett!! Hope you feel better. Glad to see you back in action even though the waves weren't breaking as well as they should because of the sandbar situation.
Your right Brett it’s not the same as what it used to be the especially the point and south side but we had some good up in kitty hawk we thought about going down to buxton but decided not to we need to build permanent sand bars or reefs that would be awesome if it could be done
I always get something out of your detailed vlogs. Merry Christmas! I and am sure many others appreciate you.
I appreciate that! Merry Christmas, and thanks for the support :)
Amen Brett, Merry Christmas and his birth is the reason
Yeeeew! Git it Brett! Been missing your Vlog’s, can’t wait to check out the movie. God Bless and Merry Christmas….🤘🏻🤙🏻🇺🇸
Merry Christmas Brett!!
Nice to see you back great suffer 👍.
One of those epic days! The outside breaks have the biggest swells, but it's impossible to get out because of the chop.
Love the vlog and your heart for the Lord 🙌🏼
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas Brett! God bless.
Solid waves.
Merry Christmas Brett. 🙏🏼❤🤙🏼
East coast, Gulf coast (SPI Texas) and Cali, all got an epic swell!
Epic effort, you rocked what you had to deal with 🤙🏽
@brettbarley
Brett you got some really good waves. Us average surfers they would be a wave of a life time. Surfing sometimes carries way too much expectations. In think the balance is being thankful for being out there, enjoying the gift God has given us to enjoy and having bodies with which we are able to do it. Keep charging 🤙👑
Sic beat down session !
At 3:22 of this vid you can see a dolphin jump from the outside bar!
Crazy! I didn’t even see that while I was editing. Great catch.
I saw them opening up your roads. It looks like you guys survived… What a swell, man crazy erosion in Florida and the holy coast.
nice track
I remember surf much like that on Labor Day 1979, a hurricane 500 miles away. Beautiful, glassy, warm, blue sky!
I went out on the south side and it was probably the biggest surf I was ever out in - compared to my local spots in SC, Folly Beach and IOP.
Decided to go out on the point later, it was breaking so far out. Got pitched off of one at takeoff, just ripped my leash and board right off. That was a long swim in!
Ur a legend. ❤
Got an upper and lower respiratory infection that's turned into pneumonia. At least I've got these vlogs.
Still Got the Stoke & A Bit Psych'd🤙
I have no idea how you can even paddle out in these conditions. Amazing!
Bout time you started riding thr Maurice Coles. All my boards are MC customs and the last few with XTR foam and now doing the carbon wraps. I combined the Shiva with the veecon and its the best riding most durable board ive ever had. Extra money but its a tank yet still able to throw it around like a rag doll. Promote Maurice, he deserves it!
Yeah Cody! Sending love from your home town of Cayucos...Still ripping!!!
Nice! I surfed there once for some random shoot, never saw the photos. Rad little place though
Wow...Somethings been going on. Thats the hottest Outer Banks I've ever seen with ice. 20 ft. New Jersey and I'm wondering if its the same system. Dec.18 proved to be a conquest for a few. Love the vid. Looks like the 15 yr. storm. Admire Bretts surf, front foot more forward, even hands forward. A faster ride. Great show!
You look strangely close to my beach house… lol crazy waves.
best boards for florida waves
California was pretty big this weekend and spots were incredibly crowded like Rincon and Swamis even Mavericks had a lot of people out
These east coasters don’t know what a 25 foot wave looks like. 😂😂😂
I mean… I made my career off surfing Pipeline. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@brettbarley Then you know Hawaiians measure wave height different from Houles.
Ya which is exactly why I said in the video “again… on the face of the wave. Cause this is the east coast and we measure the portion of the wave you ride.”
Also you spelt Haole wrong 🫠
@@brettbarley well thanks for the correction , I guess east coast wave height is then dependent of how low your bottom turns are….😂. Santa Cruz coast is my home break(s) and there are hidden spots where it breaks 3 feet on a completely flat ocean. Big days are cold a mean and loud as hell, mavericks being the best known of such. We have some great spots where it breaks on the point of a small bay/cove and a super strong rip just naturally carried you out to the take off point again, such as Scott’s creek. It is pretty sharky out here and in October all the white sharks in the pacific stop by for elephant seal meals. After being hit in Oct. 1999, I just don’t go out that month. That shark data comes from a 3-4 year tagging study that really told the story of great white territory. 🤙
Hell yes
The ride at 10:21. Omg
Beach replenishment North of ya
Looks like a good wave to learn on,like for a beginner.;)yeeew
I thought you guys were amazing on day 1. It looked like pipe out there and you all crushed it.
"sandbars use to be better" "sandbars have their seasons" its funny to hear that, since sandbars are such a fleeting thing on a day to day basis, dare i say minute to minute? The swell is coming at this angle, it should be good here. But on the east coast its all sand and it seems surf spots aren't just dependent on the swell itself, the stars have to align. Having to chase, find the diamond in the rough amongst the dunes. yknow that should be the title of a surf movie: Diamond in the rough. Idk where i was going with this but there's a lot to unpack in those two statements. sand stuff
Feel the pain with the sandbars changing. One of our most legendary spots that use to handle everything and anything no longer bas a wave enough at chest high
Is your government doing sand pumping?
Do you all locally attribute the sand bar decline to all the sand dumping (aka “beach renourishment”)? I am 50 and have been surfing C FL since a teen. We definitely see all the sand dumping f’ing up the breaks here (and the beach diving south of the inlet). Great channel and vids 🤙
Spitters 🤙
Reel nice work, mano!
Thanks for sharing the deets on your equipment & such.
What brand is your beanie, mon?! 🤙🏼
Ha how about the skip to over the falls with Jesse Hines at around 20:00.. RLTW 3/75
I saw that too, that looked like a rough smash 💥
Looks like typical east coast conditions.
Lots of wash through.
Holy F@CK seeing the spit at the jersey shore is bonkers. You guys are amazing. The cold water is like death and you guys killed it.
💯 🔥...JERSEY AND ROB KELLY AND BEN'S GRAVY RUNS EAST COAST..YEWWWWW
Must not be too much fun surfing in water that cold
Tons of fun! I was actually perfect, the water was warmer than usual, so In the gear I had it was very comfortable. Wetsuits do wonders.
Jesse gonna be sore after those wipeouts
😂😂😂 man is full Send
Hopefully these monsters realign, reset the sandbars for easter.
Hawaiians be like "3-5 at best".😂
looks like 'SECRETS' IN OXNARD. Shark bomb!!!!!!!!!!
Nice rides…… cold as hell love the soundtrack at the 20 min mark… who is that?
15th bar breaking out back 😅
Been waiting for a video sick . I think it was just to windy . Seemed like it never just went light offshore.
Dear lord. How about that quiver. I watched gravy they had some big ones up there so had a feeling it was rocking at Hatteras. RLTW 3/75
At 11:18 I can't tell what that is in the background? Guy out deep? Shark? Dolpin?
I live clos to u Brett I live in Avon and Hunter Hicks and Tanner surfed this swell😂😅
Haha hi Taylor.
Isn't that the sandbar where Edward Teach ran Queen Anne's Revenge aground?
Coño Brett and Boyz Scored Big time.. what's dat location by KOA nags head??I scored dat place back in that day in Sept 98 no wetsuit.. Greeting from Boriken we are waiting for u guys.. Nice message at end God Bless OBX fam..laters
Actually looks like ocean beach SF
Yo Brett, was your biggest east coast day that tow in sesh off Hatteras?
I mean, that was the biggest one we surfed, yes. But it gets that big here most every year. I just don’t take pwc out to the outer bars
I have a house at KDH and don’t discount all of the off-shore dredging all along OBX not effecting the breaks! Sand fleas are becoming hard to find now due to the dredging and trying to save beaches…
Our issues have been evolving since they ever did any dredging down here. Besides… we get 20’-30’ nor’easters and 10 knots of current sweeping the ocean floor. Sand gonna move
Dredged up in SS and Duck April/May/June - all that sand they pumped in is gone. Total waste of time and money - great vid!! @@brettbarley
👍🎯
2 or 3 surfboard 😅 in quiever 😮
Haha just a few 😬. Going to drop a video next week on what boards I chose to take out for the day, and what i ended up riding
@@brettbarley the best board for make really accurate videos.. my quiever only has 1 board, a catchsurf 5.0 chippa wilson 😅. Merry Christmas Brett from Sardinia