I am actually stunned at how amazing this model looks. As a T'au player and Kroot lover, I definitely will replicate some of what you showed here on my Kinband and future models
That was a great result. STill has that 'not really covered' effect in the darker tone areas (cape), but could be easily fixed by layering over paint. Going to try this soon.
Apologies for the delay in response. It's gonna be a bit involved, so I'll do a full write up of paints and color choices and post in on my Patreon tomorrow. It'll be free for anyone to access.
(Caveat, I’m only a minute into the video), I love paining minis and spending 10, 20, 30+ hours making them just so. But I’ve got hundreds in my pile of grey shame. Speed painting is a great way to get some colour on them and get them on the table to be played with. And, when I have the time, I can go back to them and repaint and give them the painting attention they deserve. Also, for our newer or younger painters, it’s a great way to ease them into the painting side of the hobby and give a good reference for highlights and shadows when they do want to delve deeper into painting. Anyway, on with watching the rest of your video.
I think people are misinterpreting what I was saying there. I was put off of trying speed painting methods because the way I had seen other people treat painting like a chore and speedpainting as a way to bypass it. I wasn't suggesting speedpainting can't be fun or is invalid or anything, since figuring out how I can make speedpainting fun for me was sort of the point of the video and all 😉
Try out using a more complex shadow color like I did here it's super easy and looks way better. Also, remember a key part of this was using the slapchop just as a foundation, taking a little extra time to build up from there will do wonders.
Your video is good timing for me. I have done a few versions of slap chop on a few of my models, but wanted to try something similar to your method here with less black than I normally use and doing a dry brush for edge highlighting before the contrast, and I was going to try the first batch on my Kroot. So, it was good to see it work successfully. You did more dry brushing than I had intended to, but it might be a good way for me to practice with my new Artis Opus brushes. I bought them and haven't had the nerve to try them on anything I have worked on yet.
I mentioned in the video that the contrast paints on their own weren't really vibrant enough, some of that was my underpainting color choice, but some of that is inherent to contrast. One of the things that made this work so well was taking the time to build up some highlights/textures after using the slapchop to form a base. So you actually may be able to get away with only drybrushing up through your midtones and then finishing it off with regular brush work.
Thumbs up for VMC Russian green. I use it a lot. This is a fairly timely video for me, because im about to take a break from goblins and paint some Kroot.
I think its an excellent color for Kroot skin whether you try this underpainting approach or a more traditional one. It's just got that perfect balance between saturation and warmth. You can go so many different directions with it.
Very informative, I'm considering something similar when I get around to painting my slaanesh blood bowl team and I'm eager to see what kind of results you can get with this technique with the refinements you talk about in the latter half of the video.
While you are a great mini painter, you have a gift in that you communicate very clearly to your audience. Keep up the great work. My compliments, Kudos, BZ and keep charging!
Absolutely interested in comparing it to traditional layer wash. I have been playing with slap chop and 'contrast +' methods but always found them wanting for the same reasons you mentioned. The result is too desaturated, and the highlights are not volumetric. So I layerover most of the contrast base layer and fixing the lights, which I think takes longer than doing layer wash highlight or any layer-based techniques. This is especially true if you like volumetric highlights, as I prefer saturated colors and volumetric highlights aesthetic. I am searching for a balance of quality and speed for my armies as well and everything points to slapchop. I think we need to explore the pros and cons of different methods especially if you dont like that desaturated, dry brush texture look.
Yeah I'm definitely gonna try it out. First impressions are telling me this method was faster, but its also been several months since I've done the basecoat-wash-layer kind of thing and I've gained a ton of experience since then, so I wonder if that is what's actually making the difference.
Ive found that i actually achieve a lot of the same speed and ease of the slap chop grisaille by combining it with traditional grisaille - manually sketching in virtual textures and reflection volumes that the drybrush would not pick up due to its automated "catch the texture only" nature. It produces some edyremely great results that look like they took absolutely ages.
Quick question @3:15 you mention that shadows are never black, and that color doesn't meaningfully cover black. I see this as less of a problem when you are doing a high-contrast painting method (like Blanchitsu), would you agree? I'd think you'd want to push things with the medium tones and highlights more in the dark ochre/dark vermillion to highly saturated tones on something like that (since you aren't painting it to be "realistic", but "stylized").
That's a really great question. But I think even if you were going for something more stylized like that, you would be better off going for a really dark brown, red, green, or purple for two reasons: 1. If you take a look at Blanche's artwork, even though it is really high contrast, I don't think his deepest shadows are ever truly black, you can confirm this by putting one into photoshop and using the dropper tool. At most, the outlines are black, but I'll address that in point 2. 2. Avoiding using black is as much about what it does to the color around it as the overall contrast. Black on its own has a sort of chilling effect on the colors around it, causing them to be a little dull and lifeless, and when doing an underpainting like this, it is going to sap your mid tones. Blanche very much uses a limited and earthy color palette, but I wouldn't describe those colors as dull, in fact they're quite vibrant in their own way. What I would do instead to achieve that very high contrast and stylized look, is use one of the colors I mentioned above as your base, and then towards the end of the painting process blackline some of the deepest recesses/boundaries between shapes in order to replicate that sort of illustrated vibe.
@@HereticsHeroes Awesome take on it, thank you for your reply. Come to think of it, even when I'm doing "Grimdark" Sons of Horus, I'm pretty much doing everything with an incubi darkness block in and leaving black for the metallics, I'll have to look at using some earth tones for those pieces as well to take off the chill. The blacklining with enamels is something I tried on my last attempt, and is definitely the right way to go as you've said.
I despise the term "slap chop" mainly because this style of painting (undercoating) has been in use for literally hundreds of years. It's a very legitimate style of painting that within the hobby community has a bit of a stigma that, I feel, is due to the term that we use for it. I will definitely need to try using some blue in my darker colors. Great paint job!
Yeah that stigma prevented me from trying it for a long time, but it worked out great. If I can just solve the texture problem I would consider using it all the time
@@HereticsHeroes hmmmm...I'm far from an expert so I'm sure you'll get this one figured out. That being said, I do remember hearing that lighter colored paints use physically larger pieces of pigment. Maybe try a different brand of paint? Or even a bit of medium to break it down slightly?
@radshoesbro that definitely may have something to do with it. Next time I'm gonna try using the moistening pad I got at adepticon and see if that actually works.
If you want smoother dry brushing and less texture you want to actually get a little drop of water (i use a sponge) onto the dry brush and then use a none absorbent surface to remove the paint, i use a diy texture pallet. Sounds weird but if you check out artist opus who is basically the gold standard for dry brushing imo he swears by it. You'll get a really smooth dry brush effect and none of that chalky look.
The texture of the drybrush (or even a rattlecan/airbrush) zenethal is what keeps me away from slapchop. I have yet to find a method that doesn't leave behind unwanted spots or scratches that isn't just painting the model monochrome then contrasting on top. I've come to love contrast paints as a fast and interesting way to basecoat models, but like you I will always spend the time highlighting afterwards.
I would love to see you do some experiments with different underpainting methods. Bevause J share the problem that mine get too desaturated with black and white. So I will definitely try the dark blue. But I am also looking to get full vibrancy on some colors, so I guess I would need a white? Would love to see you develop and show a repeatable technique. :)
I'm planning to integrate what I learned here into future projects. I'm very much leaning towards trying to do like a halfway underpaint where we just set up the shadows and midtones and then leave the final highlights entirely to brush work so we can maintain full vibrancy where it matters most
@@RichardMaassen Definitely. Part of the reason this one looks as good as it does is that I did a significant amount or "normal" painting over the slapchop, treating it like a setup phase.
I'm definitely planning to make it, though unfortunately this was the only Kroot model I have. Someone will have to buy me a box of the new Kroot, or better yet convince GW to send me a box for free
if 5 hours is fast for you I think Ive finally found someone as slow as me! takes me an age to finish a model, desperately trying to speed up lately as I can buyu models much fatser than I can paint them, currently sat at 4 out of 15 kill teams painted, and those 4 took 2 years to get done 🤣
To be fair I was working on camera which is slower and I was doing other things at the same time, so I may be able to push a paintjob like this down to like 3 hours if I really tried. But, yeah lol I've got like 3000 points of unpainted guard which I've had for over a year. I'm planning to do a few more videos on ways to speed things up, people seem to like it and it's useful for me just as a hobbyist too.
I am actually stunned at how amazing this model looks. As a T'au player and Kroot lover, I definitely will replicate some of what you showed here on my Kinband and future models
Really glad to have found your channel, been watching mini painting videos for years and you’ve explained things in a really approachable way
Awesome to hear. I'm trying to walk the fine line between informative and entertaining.
Finding your channel was a real treat man. Keep up the awsome work!
Will do!
The commentary is so calming, I love it.
Guess I have a soothing voice 😌
This has given me some ideas, great video. I don't like how alot of slapchop style painting looks but you've made it work.
Always good to hear I've given some inspiration! I'll do my best to keep it up.
iv always painted "slap chop", i use the shade and highlights from the speed paint to layer paint and highlight over.
Thats the way to do it!
That was a great result. STill has that 'not really covered' effect in the darker tone areas (cape), but could be easily fixed by layering over paint. Going to try this soon.
Howdy, i was wondering if you could share your paint list for your kroot. I love the colors :)
Apologies for the delay in response. It's gonna be a bit involved, so I'll do a full write up of paints and color choices and post in on my Patreon tomorrow. It'll be free for anyone to access.
Paint list/walkthrough here www.patreon.com/posts/kroot-paint-list-104013197?Link&
(Caveat, I’m only a minute into the video), I love paining minis and spending 10, 20, 30+ hours making them just so. But I’ve got hundreds in my pile of grey shame. Speed painting is a great way to get some colour on them and get them on the table to be played with. And, when I have the time, I can go back to them and repaint and give them the painting attention they deserve. Also, for our newer or younger painters, it’s a great way to ease them into the painting side of the hobby and give a good reference for highlights and shadows when they do want to delve deeper into painting. Anyway, on with watching the rest of your video.
Are you using a paper towel or a texture pallet to get the paint off your brush for dry brushing?
I think people are misinterpreting what I was saying there. I was put off of trying speed painting methods because the way I had seen other people treat painting like a chore and speedpainting as a way to bypass it. I wasn't suggesting speedpainting can't be fun or is invalid or anything, since figuring out how I can make speedpainting fun for me was sort of the point of the video and all 😉
Texture pallette
The result looks amazing👍👍
that looks GREAT.
Dude thats amazing, I wish my slap chop looked nearly that good.
Try out using a more complex shadow color like I did here it's super easy and looks way better. Also, remember a key part of this was using the slapchop just as a foundation, taking a little extra time to build up from there will do wonders.
Your video is good timing for me. I have done a few versions of slap chop on a few of my models, but wanted to try something similar to your method here with less black than I normally use and doing a dry brush for edge highlighting before the contrast, and I was going to try the first batch on my Kroot. So, it was good to see it work successfully. You did more dry brushing than I had intended to, but it might be a good way for me to practice with my new Artis Opus brushes. I bought them and haven't had the nerve to try them on anything I have worked on yet.
I mentioned in the video that the contrast paints on their own weren't really vibrant enough, some of that was my underpainting color choice, but some of that is inherent to contrast. One of the things that made this work so well was taking the time to build up some highlights/textures after using the slapchop to form a base. So you actually may be able to get away with only drybrushing up through your midtones and then finishing it off with regular brush work.
Thumbs up for VMC Russian green. I use it a lot. This is a fairly timely video for me, because im about to take a break from goblins and paint some Kroot.
I think its an excellent color for Kroot skin whether you try this underpainting approach or a more traditional one. It's just got that perfect balance between saturation and warmth. You can go so many different directions with it.
I am glad basicly everyone recognises Abelard as the best boy he is. ❤
The GOAT. And his voice actor's a great guy too!
I found your channel bc of this video. LOVE THIS. Subscribed.
Glad to have you!
Very informative, I'm considering something similar when I get around to painting my slaanesh blood bowl team and I'm eager to see what kind of results you can get with this technique with the refinements you talk about in the latter half of the video.
Definitely give it a try
Would love to see this method on more models.
Gonna try it out again for sure
While you are a great mini painter, you have a gift in that you communicate very clearly to your audience. Keep up the great work. My compliments, Kudos, BZ and keep charging!
Absolutely interested in comparing it to traditional layer wash. I have been playing with slap chop and 'contrast +' methods but always found them wanting for the same reasons you mentioned. The result is too desaturated, and the highlights are not volumetric. So I layerover most of the contrast base layer and fixing the lights, which I think takes longer than doing layer wash highlight or any layer-based techniques. This is especially true if you like volumetric highlights, as I prefer saturated colors and volumetric highlights aesthetic. I am searching for a balance of quality and speed for my armies as well and everything points to slapchop. I think we need to explore the pros and cons of different methods especially if you dont like that desaturated, dry brush texture look.
Yeah I'm definitely gonna try it out. First impressions are telling me this method was faster, but its also been several months since I've done the basecoat-wash-layer kind of thing and I've gained a ton of experience since then, so I wonder if that is what's actually making the difference.
Ive found that i actually achieve a lot of the same speed and ease of the slap chop grisaille by combining it with traditional grisaille - manually sketching in virtual textures and reflection volumes that the drybrush would not pick up due to its automated "catch the texture only" nature.
It produces some edyremely great results that look like they took absolutely ages.
Definitely a valid way to go about it.
I would like to see that comparison video 🤘🏼
It's on the list for sure
Im stealing that hair gradient technique for my kill team super cool.
It is a gift
Quick question @3:15 you mention that shadows are never black, and that color doesn't meaningfully cover black. I see this as less of a problem when you are doing a high-contrast painting method (like Blanchitsu), would you agree? I'd think you'd want to push things with the medium tones and highlights more in the dark ochre/dark vermillion to highly saturated tones on something like that (since you aren't painting it to be "realistic", but "stylized").
That's a really great question. But I think even if you were going for something more stylized like that, you would be better off going for a really dark brown, red, green, or purple for two reasons: 1. If you take a look at Blanche's artwork, even though it is really high contrast, I don't think his deepest shadows are ever truly black, you can confirm this by putting one into photoshop and using the dropper tool. At most, the outlines are black, but I'll address that in point 2.
2. Avoiding using black is as much about what it does to the color around it as the overall contrast. Black on its own has a sort of chilling effect on the colors around it, causing them to be a little dull and lifeless, and when doing an underpainting like this, it is going to sap your mid tones. Blanche very much uses a limited and earthy color palette, but I wouldn't describe those colors as dull, in fact they're quite vibrant in their own way. What I would do instead to achieve that very high contrast and stylized look, is use one of the colors I mentioned above as your base, and then towards the end of the painting process blackline some of the deepest recesses/boundaries between shapes in order to replicate that sort of illustrated vibe.
@@HereticsHeroes Awesome take on it, thank you for your reply.
Come to think of it, even when I'm doing "Grimdark" Sons of Horus, I'm pretty much doing everything with an incubi darkness block in and leaving black for the metallics, I'll have to look at using some earth tones for those pieces as well to take off the chill.
The blacklining with enamels is something I tried on my last attempt, and is definitely the right way to go as you've said.
I despise the term "slap chop" mainly because this style of painting (undercoating) has been in use for literally hundreds of years. It's a very legitimate style of painting that within the hobby community has a bit of a stigma that, I feel, is due to the term that we use for it. I will definitely need to try using some blue in my darker colors. Great paint job!
Yeah that stigma prevented me from trying it for a long time, but it worked out great. If I can just solve the texture problem I would consider using it all the time
@@HereticsHeroes I wonder if there's any way the texture is from your brush picking up pieces from the paper towel?
@radshoesbro nope didn't use paper towel. I followed all the guidelines for "proper" drybrushing technique, but there was still some grit left behind.
@@HereticsHeroes hmmmm...I'm far from an expert so I'm sure you'll get this one figured out. That being said, I do remember hearing that lighter colored paints use physically larger pieces of pigment. Maybe try a different brand of paint? Or even a bit of medium to break it down slightly?
@radshoesbro that definitely may have something to do with it. Next time I'm gonna try using the moistening pad I got at adepticon and see if that actually works.
looks amazing! I think some freehand on the cloak would really make it pop :)
There's a lot of extra detail I could have added but I ran out of time
If you want smoother dry brushing and less texture you want to actually get a little drop of water (i use a sponge) onto the dry brush and then use a none absorbent surface to remove the paint, i use a diy texture pallet. Sounds weird but if you check out artist opus who is basically the gold standard for dry brushing imo he swears by it. You'll get a really smooth dry brush effect and none of that chalky look.
I did all that except for adding the drop of water which I suppose I'll have to try next time
This was great, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! Hopefully something in there was useful.
@@HereticsHeroes Absolutely, good stuff in there! I'll definitely pass on your tips and name to other new painters :)
The texture of the drybrush (or even a rattlecan/airbrush) zenethal is what keeps me away from slapchop. I have yet to find a method that doesn't leave behind unwanted spots or scratches that isn't just painting the model monochrome then contrasting on top. I've come to love contrast paints as a fast and interesting way to basecoat models, but like you I will always spend the time highlighting afterwards.
Yeah, while I did enjoy doing this one, and the final result looks pretty good, I'm definitely still searching for my perfect quick paint method
Good job.
Yes, this really works if you take the time to put read gradient into your value sketch and avoid that grainy texture … air brush is best
Once I finally try using mine I'll give it a shot
I would love to see you do some experiments with different underpainting methods. Bevause J share the problem that mine get too desaturated with black and white. So I will definitely try the dark blue. But I am also looking to get full vibrancy on some colors, so I guess I would need a white?
Would love to see you develop and show a repeatable technique. :)
I'm planning to integrate what I learned here into future projects. I'm very much leaning towards trying to do like a halfway underpaint where we just set up the shadows and midtones and then leave the final highlights entirely to brush work so we can maintain full vibrancy where it matters most
@@HereticsHeroes interesting! Do you think you can get the same or better vibrancy with regular acrylics compared to contrast paint over white?
@@RichardMaassen Definitely. Part of the reason this one looks as good as it does is that I did a significant amount or "normal" painting over the slapchop, treating it like a setup phase.
@@HereticsHeroes Okay, thanks! Looking forward to your next videos. :)
I want my stuff to look cool like this. 😸
Keep practicing and keep watching my tutorials 😜
I would love a video comparing the two methods. Especially if it means more Kroot 😊
I'm definitely planning to make it, though unfortunately this was the only Kroot model I have. Someone will have to buy me a box of the new Kroot, or better yet convince GW to send me a box for free
if 5 hours is fast for you I think Ive finally found someone as slow as me! takes me an age to finish a model, desperately trying to speed up lately as I can buyu models much fatser than I can paint them, currently sat at 4 out of 15 kill teams painted, and those 4 took 2 years to get done 🤣
To be fair I was working on camera which is slower and I was doing other things at the same time, so I may be able to push a paintjob like this down to like 3 hours if I really tried. But, yeah lol I've got like 3000 points of unpainted guard which I've had for over a year. I'm planning to do a few more videos on ways to speed things up, people seem to like it and it's useful for me just as a hobbyist too.
Nice vid bud! What light are you using at your friends place? Looks amazing
It's a neatfi 2500 lumens desk lamp. Really amazing for painting, but a little pricey.
What contrast paint did you use for the cloak?
I hit it with skeleton horde first, but I went over it with nazdreg yellow to brighten it up.
@@HereticsHeroesthanks!
Really good but I'd suggest add more vibrancy to the quills
There's quite a few elements that could use extra work, but I really wanted to keep it as a 1 sitting kind of project, so no more refinement for me.
Looks cool. 👍 I'm a new Subscriber on your channel.
Happy to have you aboard!
Nice
V cool
Your Drybrush is too dry, it needs to be slightly,y damp to avoid that chalkiness. Watch the Artis Opus primer.
I have subsequently tried again with a slightly more damp drybrush and it didn't totally solve the problem.
This is cool but faster is not what this is.
It's not faster than true speedpainting, but its much faster than how I usually paint.