Great demo. Setting the mark, then installing the distributor and followed by setting the timing has been my method since the 60's. It used to involve turning on the ignition and rotating the distributor until the points arc. Even used an ohm meter with no current. One thing people seem not to know is that you can be a toot out because the number of gears on the distributor are different than the cam gear. You have to make sure the rotor is pointing directly at the distributor cap post. Compensating by turning the distributor will not help overcome this. It will run but not perform no matter how you twist the distributor. I mention this for anyone new to installation to prevent going down a rabbit hole. I was helping my brother way back when and he installed it a tooth off on a rebuild. His mistake was a free school lesson for me.
Thanks Stovebolt. Very good explanation. You reminded me of something, I used a test light to determine exactly when the points opened to set initial timing. Thanks for contributing to my channel. AG
Although I totally agree with your explanation how at reduced pressure liquids tend to go to the vapour state. But the main purpose of the choke is to apply low pressure to the main jet nozzle to richen the mixture to provide excess fuel knowing the most of the correct mixture fuel will end up as liquid on the manifold surfaces and not make a flammable mixture. The throttle blades even without the choke will create the vacuum to help vaporize the fuel. When the engine is cold and one tries to throttle up to quickly and the engine stumbles it’s usually due to the vaporized fuel condensing back to liquid as a result of the increased manifold pressure.
the finger in hole was called "thumb in dyke" approach growing up. i used dishwasher soap and water to pull boots through wires. i believe if you leave key on acc (back) then points don't burn out.. i thought... ? nice video
Another interesting and informative video, Allan. Thanks! I'm very excited to see the video from the dyno test on Saturday. Testing of numerous carbs and air filter combinations is sure to be fascinating. Thanks again for sharing all of your knowledge with us and congratulations on reaching the 2M views milestone. Please give my regards to Darrell, Bill, Alex, and Mike. Cheers!
Great video as always, I know that the best way to start a motor with a locked out distributor is the way you mentioned earlier with a hot ignition wire that you can switch on after you have the engine Turing over , but another way is to pump the gas pedal, and just like you said your filling the cylinders with wet fuel , (not the ideal way but it does let you get the engine rolling over) I don’t know if your familiar with the MSD digital E-curve distributor it has a lockout choice of 5,10, or 15 degrees of retard when cranking and when engine reaches 600 rpm it goes to whatever total you have locked out, I am about to switch out my HEI for the E-curve, the directions are pretty hard to understand but once you get a grasp on them it’s pretty slick, fine tuning with a turn of a couple dials, have a good weekend 😀😀
Alan, I assume when you find the distributer not dropping down is because the oil pump slot is not lined up with the tang in the distributer and when you spool the engine with a slight downward pressure it drops down into the oil pump drive when it aligns.
you mentioned Paul was putting this engine into a 1964 chev and was concerned about HEI distributor fit. What model chev is he putting this into i have a 1964 El Camino i am getting ready to put my 283 engine into and hopping HEI will fit. Thanks
Thanks Greg. I think Paul's 64 is a full size, Paul if you are watching can you please comment. HEI is tight on many early cars, pre 1974 or so because they were not designed to accommodate the large distributor cap. AG
I think the Pertronix he is using is a Pertronix III newer type series. Leaving key on will not fry the unit. Pertronix IIs did have key on issues. Yes. Avoid Pertronix IIs.
Great demo. Setting the mark, then installing the distributor and followed by setting the timing has been my method since the 60's. It used to involve turning on the ignition and rotating the distributor until the points arc. Even used an ohm meter with no current. One thing people seem not to know is that you can be a toot out because the number of gears on the distributor are different than the cam gear. You have to make sure the rotor is pointing directly at the distributor cap post. Compensating by turning the distributor will not help overcome this. It will run but not perform no matter how you twist the distributor. I mention this for anyone new to installation to prevent going down a rabbit hole. I was helping my brother way back when and he installed it a tooth off on a rebuild. His mistake was a free school lesson for me.
Thanks Stovebolt. Very good explanation. You reminded me of something, I used a test light to determine exactly when the points opened to set initial timing. Thanks for contributing to my channel. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 I also forgot about the test light. I used it also, especially on my British bikes.
Although I totally agree with your explanation how at reduced pressure liquids tend to go to the vapour state. But the main purpose of the choke is to apply low pressure to the main jet nozzle to richen the mixture to provide excess fuel knowing the most of the correct mixture fuel will end up as liquid on the manifold surfaces and not make a flammable mixture. The throttle blades even without the choke will create the vacuum to help vaporize the fuel. When the engine is cold and one tries to throttle up to quickly and the engine stumbles it’s usually due to the vaporized fuel condensing back to liquid as a result of the increased manifold pressure.
Thanks Cabot, a very good explanation. Thanks for contributing.AG
the finger in hole was called "thumb in dyke" approach growing up. i used dishwasher soap and water to pull boots through wires. i believe if you leave key on acc (back) then points don't burn out.. i thought... ? nice video
All good points, thanks for contributing. AG
Another interesting and informative video, Allan. Thanks! I'm very excited to see the video from the dyno test on Saturday. Testing of numerous carbs and air filter combinations is sure to be fascinating. Thanks again for sharing all of your knowledge with us and congratulations on reaching the 2M views milestone. Please give my regards to Darrell, Bill, Alex, and Mike. Cheers!
Thanks for your comments Todd. Please keep us informed of progress on your build. AG
Thank You for the videos !
Good to hear the 2 million views ,....
Keep 'Going !!!!
Thanks for watching and commenting Nerrad.AG
👍👍👍 good show.
Thanks Mark.AG
Great video as always, I know that the best way to start a motor with a locked out distributor is the way you mentioned earlier with a hot ignition wire that you can switch on after you have the engine Turing over , but another way is to pump the gas pedal, and just like you said your filling the cylinders with wet fuel , (not the ideal way but it does let you get the engine rolling over) I don’t know if your familiar with the MSD digital E-curve distributor it has a lockout choice of 5,10, or 15 degrees of retard when cranking and when engine reaches 600 rpm it goes to whatever total you have locked out, I am about to switch out my HEI for the E-curve, the directions are pretty hard to understand but once you get a grasp on them it’s pretty slick, fine tuning with a turn of a couple dials, have a good weekend 😀😀
Thanks for the comments Desert. Good luck with your channel.AG
Bad ass thank you OG
Thanks for your comment Anthony.AG
Alan, I assume when you find the distributer not dropping down is because the oil pump slot is not lined up with the tang in the distributer and when you spool the engine with a slight downward pressure it drops down into the oil pump drive when it aligns.
That is correct Cabot, thanks for commenting.AG
you mentioned Paul was putting this engine into a 1964 chev and was concerned about HEI distributor fit. What model chev is he putting this into i have a 1964 El Camino i am getting ready to put my 283 engine into and hopping HEI will fit. Thanks
Thanks Greg. I think Paul's 64 is a full size, Paul if you are watching can you please comment. HEI is tight on many early cars, pre 1974 or so because they were not designed to accommodate the large distributor cap. AG
A friend burnt out the Pertronix on his 69 Fairlane by leaving the ignition on.
Then it took months for the replacement to come in(in 2022)..
I think the Pertronix he is using is a Pertronix III newer type series. Leaving key on will not fry the unit. Pertronix IIs did have key on issues. Yes. Avoid Pertronix IIs.
Thanks for commenting alletoop.AG
Petronix 2 doesn’t hurt to keep key on. But on number 1. It will burn out the module.
Thanks Frank, i think that is correct. AG