So you wanna Turbo your bike - part 4
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- The 4th installment (obviously) in the turbo your bike series (which is the title above dickhead) - this time - compression ratios.
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Mate all the english sayings and phrases proper crack me up, gold content
Damn, Im going to have to watch a DelBoy video to clear my head of all these facts :D
when you have a headache, it is your memory formating :D
Why when im in actual class 7mins feel like hour but when i watch your video 7mins feels like 10seconds? And i still learn way more than in class.
Because you are being entertained while learning, time always seems to go by faster when you're enjoying things, hence the term ' Time flies when you're having fun'. :)
Great video Matt, Im about to start a Turbo build on a GSX1100, its a first for me so gaining as much good guidance as possible, had a Garret turbo built for the job with billet internals, with spacing the barrels I'm told I can run about 8-9psi, I will have a search for parts 1 2 and 3 later, cheers for the upload.
Huge fan of your explanations. Made my work on the 250r cbr alot better. I didnt understand the compression until now. Thank you bro.
Back in the 90’s I had a Saph Cosworth, tuning or optimising as you correct me, involved lowering the compression ratio, putting in a metal HG, huge turbo and sloshing fuel in with grey injectors. Was horrible to drive, all lag and torrid boost... what manufactures get away with these days when you look at comp ratios and turbocharging is genius. Big power 2.0 in-line 4’s are now nice to drive.... sorry for the car talk. As you were.
Buddy you are great dont go changing I have to keep restarting/rewatching your videos Due to laughing my ass very informative series I'm getting alot from it
Easy way to drop the compression, get a bit of steel 2mm thick and cut out your head gasket thats what i done to my car a few years ago to turbo charge it 👍🏼
Then a 5th injector on the inlet manifold wired to a bosst switch to compensate for the extra fuel needed 👍🏼
I'm your biggest fan
then you are a turbine :D
Mario or is he a wind mill with motor?
Feed the flame?
No thanks , I don't want a turbo, I want part 3 of the sv1000 clutch strip. Have you done it yet. Thanks
3:46 gaśnica gaśnica gaśnica ej ej ej kurwa!!!
Thank you
I Bloody Loved this Vid.
Purchased a turbo gsxr1000 non running, got it started then it died on me an I've been at war with it since (2 weeks) for some reason I'm not getting fuel in one of my injector rows, and real shoddy spark as well, I've checked all my kill sensors an still no luck.. it has 2 power commanders a power management and ignition module as well. also running a begi FMU a walbro external inline fuel pump and a turbo timer bike came mostly dismantled also getting really shoddy spark any info would be great no quite done watching your videos really hoping I get a light bulb moment during 1 of them. Best, art
I'm pretty sure thay intro song is not acid bath lol
hit me with your rhythm stick .............. hit me hit me HIT ..... me
soundtrack of my youth
killer Bassline
You forgot to say how many mm of mercury :)
My 8.5:1 comp ratio turbo Kawi runs great! Once boosted the damn thing is almost scary like the kids in the background. Eat the children!
instablaster
Are you a teacher? DAMN every time I watch a video, I feel like I'm back in school! Great videos, I'm not complaining I just want to know. You would be a great teacher! Cool British teacher!
Intro music "hit me", Ian Dury and the blockheads- no?
When's the next video coming? These are the best turbo videos I'm able to really find out there.
I apologize if this is too crazy or foolish. But what if, I kept the high compression-ratio, advanced the ignition-timing a few degrees for improved response, and to prevent preignition & knock, I just setup the engine to inhale chilled air?
I always wanted to have some freezer or ac system, for intercoolers, and the air entering the turbo compressor itself.
You'll have to drop the temperature quite a lot, and the problem is can you chill say 1 litre of air for a 1 litre engine @ 5,000 rpm quick enough? The answer is no. That'll be 2,500 litres per minute or 41.6 litres per second. Your heat exchanger would 1 - be massive, 2 be a massive restriction
@@dirtygarageguy
Thank you.
I have some experiments planned, including using Peltier-Devices. I love Dustbin-fairings. I'll have a lot of room, to hide components. I'll let you know how those experiments go, when I'm able to do them.
Thank you for helping me.
@@dirtygarageguy
I just had a great idea.
Another thing I learned from car racing. There is a system, that increases boost, every time you shift up.
You program every gear, to have it's own max psi.
It's meant to make it easier to maintain traction, when launching a car, but you will have full potential, in top gear.
I can use that system, to keep boost at safe levels, but at higher speeds, I can use that higher airflow around the bike, to get the most out of my chiller system, with high flow radiators, intercoolers, and or heatsinks.
I can also just setup an Arduino, to limit boost, based on the air temperature, after the chiller system...So it can never be in that preignition temperature range...
And I found an aftermarket knock sensor, that turns on a light, when it detects knock. Thank you for telling me about that. Along with a wideband A/F gauge, that knock sensor will be a big help, with my experiments.
@@dirtygarageguy
Hey.
I found the video where I learned about that system, that let's you set the max boost level, for each gear.
After watching that video again, I thought I couldn't use that system, because it looked like it can only control boost levels, when shifting up, not down, so I would have to reset it, EVERYTIME I came to a stop, or else, I would be doing wheelies, like a speedboat in wavy water, when I tried launching again. Like when getting away from traffic, after a redlight. Especially from Electric cars.
Plus, it looked like it needed the clutch, for it to work, but I really, really like Quickshifters, because they let me save my clutch-hand, for waiting in gear, at a light, ready to escape a rear-ending or something. And, a Quickshifter is great for a turbo system, because it allows me to shift-up, without chopping the throttle, and slamming the door on all that compressed air, that's flowing from the turbo. So I will only need a recirculating Blowoff-Valve, when I intentionally close the throttle, to avoid something, take a slight curve, slowdown, or stop.
But I found that Turbosmart e-Boost 2 system, and downloaded the Instruction Manual...
And it's great!
So many features.
I can even limit boost levels, by RPM, so when I want to ride around, efficiently, like in 3 or 4 thousand RPM, I can set it to allow little to no boost, in that range.
And it CAN control boost limits, for every gear, whether I shift up or down, without resetting.
SSB, Sequential Switching function B.
Which doesn't need a clutch.
I maybe able to use, even combine, the shift-lever switches, that a gear-indicator kit uses.
The video where I learned about boost-by-gear:
ua-cam.com/video/4ICz12UcRCc/v-deo.html
e-Boost2:
www.turbosmart.com/product/eboost2-60mm-black/
I'm running about 12,5:1, after sanding my head down. Original was 11,2:1. Definitly worth doing, even tho it got very tight. When I had a play of about 1mm in the wrist pin after it broke, this 1mm play was enough for the valves to touch the piston and the piston to touch the head also. Guess I shouldn't go any further:)
Very informative Matt thanks
I have a question, could be a stupid one but stick with me... If by adding a turbo, our air fuel mixture/existing compression ratio is too high to accommodate, would simply running a higher octane fuel capable of withstanding those higher ratios also solve the problem? thanks.
No. Well it depends on how high. Running 100% ethanol or methanol gives you you an octane rating of 108. - That's 100% so running 50% 95 octane + 50% ethanol would give you about 102 octane.
Avgas (aviation fuel) still has TEL (lead) in it and that stuff has an octane rating of 130 max. But it changes from blend to blend.
@@dirtygarageguy thanks for the full response
Music 🎶 is Ian dury and the block heads hit me with your rhythm stick
Hi
I have few motocycles in my garage and decide to turbo BMW K1100 1993. Was looking for any info but there is totally lack of information, and now found your video and can start up. Will you (maybe) give me some advice for that particular bike, especially what kind of turbo should be used. I'm going to attach intercooler as well. The problem will be also to lower comprssion ration because originaly is 10:1, so the question is how to lower that in a proper way? Thanks in advance,,,
Can boost without adding additional fuel, increase compression in effect improving thermal efficiency
Then you would run lean all the time which leads to increase in NOx and CO emissions and higher combustion temperature. So no, not a good idea.
As usual informative video. Question why is gasoline dispensed in liters but you use mpg for fuel range?
What you talking about that was Ian dury and the blockheads?????? ........please don’t delete this comment or I will message that over channel and get them to harass you!!!!!🤣🤪😂
It was indeed 'Hit me with your rhythm stick' - hit me slowly, hit me quick! 🥁 🏍
Je t’adore, ich liebe dich
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Nice to be a lunatic!
So, if your turbo puts in an extra bar, and your compression is 10:1, does that mean you are in effect creating a 20:1 compression ratio? I know the actual comp. ratio is still 10:1, but hopefully you know what I mean.
Yes, that is true atmospheric pressure is about 15psi, so without boost the cylinder pressure would be about 150psi at TDC, with a bar of boost but the same compression ratio it would be 300psi at TDC....
g0fvt I thought that was how it would work, but had never had it confirmed. I've never really dealt with turbos as I only own bikes (no car), and with the amount of go modern bikes have, I've never felt the need to start messing with the extra complication of forced induction. But I love new knowledge, so thanks for the answer. Greatly appreciated.
A pleasure, the high pressures are a problem with detonation, so a turbocharged or supercharged petrol engine will tend to have the compression ratio dropped. Unfortunately this results in less power off boost.
Turbo your bike , in this heat ? LOL
Did you intro screen misname the song? I was sure that was Hit me with you rhythm stick by Ian Dury & The Blockheads.
I think the point you were trying to make was the higher the compression ratio the more concentrated energy is which equals higher energy output. And that’s not even taking “boost” into consideration.
Furthermore on the importance of energy density. Burning gasoline in open air releases the same amount of energy as burning it under compression the difference is we can extract more mechanical work under compression. An example is an internal combustion engine versus a steam engine.
"I think the point you were trying to make was the higher the compression ratio the more concentrated energy is which equals higher energy output."
- I think you mean higher work output - not energy output for the same fuel delivery.
LOL just seen your second comment. Higher compression means a bigger swept to clearance volume ratio. This usually means a higher thermal efficiency.
Like I said - this is something that need its own video.
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Eyup,Northern.Is there a certain point that you can point to and say,yep you can stick a turbo on that without internal engine mods?(To reduce CR).Obviously a more touring biased bike,say,a GSX750F would be more suitable than a GSXR750.Also,how much boost is worth having?Preferably without replacing rods etc?Ive watched some car vids where they are getting very respectable figures with no engine mods at all.
Is it possible to inject the fuel at top dead center... I think it's called, and cause the thermal ignition at the right time without a spark plug?
NVM
HCCI Mazda
And Diesel Engines
No, well you can but its not a good idea - more on this later.
What if you compress just the air to a really high ratio and then use a really strong injector to spray in fuel at TDC?
funcounting I'm not sure if you are being sarcastic, but that's how a turbine engine works. The expanding gas out the back end after ignition drives turbine connected to a shaft. The shaft powers a compressor on the inlet and whatever you want on the outlet.
Why not do the same with a piston engine?
funcounting in a normal IC engine air and fuel enter the cylinder together through the intake valve. You can try moving the injector to the cylinder to inject durectly but my guess is that will cause two major problems plus others: 1. Finding a way to inject fuel fast enough that it doesn't ignite incrementally as it's injected seems impossible. 2. Have a valve small enough and fast enough to close off the injector after spraying and before ignition also seems impossible. Basically the answer to your question is that it's just not worth trying given a normal internal combustion engine works fine. If designed and tuned properly so does a turbo charged IC engine.
That’s exactly what a Diesel engine is lol
Spot on. Serious question: does a diesel engine inject fuel before or after reaching combustion pressure/temp? I'm sure timing can be changed to do whichever, but my guess (not a diesel mechanic) is that injecting before combustion temp/pressure is much more efficient with less emissions.
Based on the original comment I was looking at this as a "reach combustion temp, then inject fuel" approach to an engine which just seems incorrect for proper IC operation. Basically resulting in a poorly functioning diesel engine. But, maybe I'm wrong and a diesel actually runs better injecting after reaching combustion pressure/temp.
changing for example from 10:1 to 11:1, the efficiency of the engine goes up cca 1%
3:40 przecież to nasi!
How would you go about changing the compression ratio for an engine? Smaller conrod?
Em Fr You can put two headgaskets on, is the easiest way. Although im not quite sure if its the most ideal way.
blu3flare25 didn’t know if that would be enough to go from 12-1 to 9-1 or whatever with just a few millimeters. I feel like a shorter conrod would collide with the crank at BDC. Could possibly make an aluminum plate that fits between the head and the block?
Often it is done by machining out the chamber, part of gas flowing process tends to do this, you can also use a slightly different piston crown
Matt, when you do the compression ratios could include air cooled engines.
Also I've just found out that the P51 had better performance over the ME109 because of fuel quality, the P51 could have higher manifold pressure, is that a forced induction thing?
Better fuel (higher octane rating) means that you can add more boost before the fuel self ignites.
The temp he shows 220 degrees for normal fuel, would be something like 250-270 degrees, for the high octane fuel, before the mixture self ignites.
Awesome video, I can't find any info on turbo charging my KTM 450 mxr outlaw quad. I'm thinking draw through vz21 , but this thing has 2 oil filters side by side behind the head , which one can I tap for oil. This is the part I can't find info on. Thanks in advance for Any help you can give. I'm just finishing up my outlaw 84 Vette.i put twin turbo under the rear with a750 Holley dp blow through setup. So I gotta turbo the 450 outlaw now. There a matching pair lol
oil filters on the head? Sorry dude guads aren't my thing. Do you have an oil schematic or a manual link or something?
@@dirtygarageguy the oil filter on a motor cycle engine is in front of the head mine are behind on top the crank case along with the starter, but is there any harm in tapping one the filter covers?
Where can I find an oiling diagram or blueprint for this engine
@@dirtygarageguy I would like to find some specs on the ktm 450mxr engine. Like compression ratio, valve lift, and such
I figured out this ktm450mxr has 2 rotor pumps inside , that's why 2 filters. But one is shorter than the other and I have no idea why there's 2 pumps or which one does what lol. So I still don't know which one to tap. I'm thinking one of them supply's the top end, and that one is the one to tap.
Y did we ditch leaded fuel
Because lead + pandas = death
Because lead in the air fucks up kids brains as they develop.
lol, nice clip
At 3:41 you show a dumbass wrecking his bike (Darwin ftw!) But how can it be that a bike can run for hours at race conditions (high load and rpm) but it blows in a few minutes while revving unloaded? Throwing a rod doesn't directly seems to have something to do with cooling.
Ffs Matt..... Screaming kids, shouty adults, endless idling diesels...... When are you moving from that scummy area?
As soon as I can
Who the hell was screaming,
ua-cam.com/video/_zd-5VLH8Cs/v-deo.html