How To Install A Diagonal Herringbone Tile floor
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2019
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Diagonal Herringbone tile floor being installed over ditra in a front hall, a 4"x12" porcelain tile installed on a herringbone pattern with border tile of the same size but different style. Herringbone tile pattern can be very difficult to get right if you don't plan ahead and do a good layout so you don't end up with tiny little pieces, so it is critical to stay straight and square to keep all the grout lines even and prevent the tile pattern from running off. The tile was installed with a 1/8' grout line over Schluter Ditra uncoupling membrane and a grout of similar color to the tile was used to subdue the herringbone pattern a bit.
All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
#tile #transformthetrade #howtotile #installingtile #howtoinstalltile #Schlutersystems #herringbone
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Great choice of tile pattern, classic
Sal!! Wish you were here in Florida. Only a handful of professional that take such pride in their craft, like you. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching my video.
Stunning tile work. 👌
Another great and educational video... thank you!
Good morning Sal, excellent video thank you
This dude is by far one of,If not the best!
Great video. Thank you!
I have a herringbone tile install that I will be doing soon. Perfect timing to see this video ! 👍
I really like that herringbone pattern. Nice job Sal.
👍😊
Can you tell me the brand and color of the tile? It’s beautiful and I am finding it difficult to find a good porcelain floor tile that size!!
Floor looks great Sir!
👍😊
Hi Sal. I’m doing a bordered herringbone on an exterior deck. I’m not sure how the border tile on the edge of the deck should sit. Flush with deck/step edge? Short a touch? Suggestions? I’m also unsure whether to cut the border tiles around the deck posts and maintain a straight line, or to step the border tiles around them in and out etc. what’s normal?
Enjoyed the video, on the herringbone lay out you found the middle of the room with your line do you use a line on a 45 off of the main line?
Good job 👍
Just did a marble 4x12 herringbone floor.Its very difficult pattern to install!.
Awesome work as always Sal!
Sup guys?? Great video yesterday!!! I kept trying to leave a comment but it just kept loading in the comment section.... Glad you guys are making videos and Reppin Jersey!!!
Thanks Donald, you do some nice work yourself.
What will happen if you use modified thin set.
Hey Sal, is it possible if for instance you have a 2ft by 2 ft chair rail border above the stove for a backsplash to have a 45degree herringbone pattern where both sides are equalized? If it can be done how do you go about shifting the tile from the center line to accomodate for the herringbones offset?
maybe this will help, ua-cam.com/video/WJqzcpAT5HM/v-deo.html
liking those pro knees...I have the same kind..best out there
Yes the are, treat your knees well if you want to keep installing. Good work on your videos, i always watch them.
Thank you for the video!! Where did you get the tile please???
Numero 1.
Beautiful. I hope it’s in a part of the house where it gets seen often.
Front hall
Sal DiBlasi it can’t get no fronter than that lol
Can you fill in the Ditra with thinset and come back later after it dries to lay your tile? Or would it be best to lay them as soon as you fill the membrane?
You can prefill if you want, no problem
How u start the layout ??
Great video! What kind of tile material is this? We are trying with stone tiles and with 1/8" grout you can easily see the irregular sizing on some tiles. Are some tile material cut more accurately than others?
On larger tile like slate and other stone it is extremely hard to use spacers under 3/8". I recommend 1/2"
That seems like a difficult install Sal. That pattern whoa I’d be scared. 😂
Well it is not the easiest, but careful layout, attention to detail and keeping straight and square will make it go smooth.
You mentioned always using an uncoupling membrane. Do you use that also on a slab? If yes can you please explain why.
Please do a video on the setting out, thanks👍
Thanks for another quality video. As always I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. “FLIP”
My pleasure!
How much longer does that patten take you vs a standard 12x24 1/2 or 1/3 offset ?
Depends on how proficient you are, but it will take some extra time.
Good Job
😊👍
Brilliant video, I video about the setting out would be good as not all herringbone pattern would have boarders
Thanks for watching my video.
Gorgeous! And, what color paint are those walls?
How do you deal with rooms that are not perfectly square? Is herringbone out of the question when that happens?
The key is to do a layout and figure what your pieces will be, You can always put a border around it like this one to hide the wall that is out of square. No room is ever perfectly square.
Bro I'm trying to run this 12x24 of one strip down the middle of my kitchen , can I do that and using regular 12x12 everywhere else?
Your house, you can do whatever you want.
Hi Sal,
Love your videos. Since watching them, I've done multiple projects on my rental units and everyone thinks I hired a contractor. Watching your videos is the equivalent of taking a Masters Class in tiling.
Just out of curiosity. When you put some spacers down deep between tiles, are you going to dig them out of the thinset later or will you just leave them there and just grout directly over them?
Also, I know you can use both sides of the tile when cutting those smaller pieces on the edge, but is this a pattern with a lot of waste?
Depends on the kind of space, some are designed to leave in, others have to be removed.
😍👍👍👍
Hi Im doing a bathroom floor that is L shaped. its almost like 2 separate rooms because of the walls. herringbone pattern 12 x 24 porcelain tile. where should are start the 1st tile, at the L ? thanks
Wondering the same I'm in a similar situation where I'm planning on tiling a laundry room connected to a bathroom in an L shape. Do you start at the center of both rooms, or the center of the longest/largest room? I fear doing the latter will result in having odd cuts by the time you get to the end of the smaller room.
What brand of floor laser is that. If you could tell where i can get that one thanks. I watch your channel it helps me with ideals im a tile install as well. You do really nice neat work quality
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Sal what’s the best way to measure the cuts when doing a herringbone pattern?
Very carefully, if you can lay them over to transfer the mark, or measure with care. If you are straight and square once you dial it in, they will all be repeatable by cuts.
Sal DiBlasi Thank you!
can you explain how to center the pattern with the center of the room?
It t is pretty straight forward, find the center of the room, find the center of the tile pattern, then dry lay some tile to see if it works, make adjustments as needed.
You just leave the spacers in?
I know this is an old video. But if you are still keeping up with the comments, I was wondering if you can tell me the tile that was used for this job?
Does the tile length need to be divisible by its width in order for a herringbone pattern to work?
If it does, I did not know that and have never checked to see if it was.
Wow great question i was thinking the same thing..what do you if the floor is baddd
You make it look so easy! However, I know that is pure experience on your part. I did a herringbone floor for a client and it looked awesome when finished but it's a time consuming pattern with all the cuts and precise layout. It's even worse when the client picks tile that have tiny variations in dimension from a box store, ah forget it. Nope not for me! Never again!
Herringbone is one of those patterns that will always be around.
@@SalDiBlasi I agree with you. It's a classic time honored pattern that looks gorgeous. In the hands of an amateur though, will easily look amateur in comparison to a pro's job. Love your videos btw. I referred to many of yours when I did that herringbone job.
Im with you on that. Herringbone is a pain. Like you said, any variations in tile size makes it harder. And also if the room is out of square. Fortunateley there does not seem to be much demand for herringbone and the sooner that pattern goes back out of fashion the easier my life will become!
Hey Sal. You mention using Schluter Set on this job-was there a reason you chose this over All Set?
Either will work.
How much is a fair price for this type of pattern how do I know if I’m being overcharged without having 20 estimates
Listen to the tile guy and ask a lot of questions, do some research see what it takes. The one that answers all your questions and explains the whole process and make you comfortable that he knows his stuff, that is the guy you should go with. Price is a concern but should only be part of the equation, not the only determining factor.
You gotta do one on the layout man please
next time
@@SalDiBlasi did you ever upload the setting out on this one Sal?
Hey Sal, rewatching years later, why did you choose to use unmodified thinset?
At the time, unmodified was the recommended type of mortar by Schluter, since then advancements in mortar technology have made it possible to use many modified mortars.
When do you back butter and when do you not?
Natural stone tiles will always be back buttered, larger tiles will for the most part be back buttered, tiles with a deep pattern on the back should be back buttered, Any time proper transfer and coverage of thinset to the tile is not possible to achieve without back buttering.
I always back butter the time difference is little , changing a lose tile later on is more deficient
Another great video Sal!!! Reppin the "Right Coast" Baby!!! Dirty Jersey out!!!
👍😊
When filled with raw ceramic lines, it is fastened to many gums and difficult to clean. Please indicate the material used before filling the ceramic spaces
I see ya pulling your spacers as you go... when's the last time you installed without spacers. I still on occasion freehand. When I first started in the trade none of the installers used spacers except on walls.
Spacers are a tool, like any other tool, use them when you need them.
@@SalDiBlasi I agree 100%. It's still nice to know when you need it. The skill level of some of those guys still amazes me. Running thousands of feet of finished marble 12x12s on a 16-in joint with no spacers only a tape measure and a chalk line . You could take a hotwheel car and push it down the floor and it was like you were in the Indy 500.
Hi are the tiles unpolished
honed
Thanks man it looks great
I’m just curious how your physical health is doing from tiling so long. I’m 31 but I feel my back going a bit and also my knees ? Great Work though Sal as always 👍
I am in good health, but you are right this work is hard on the body, that is one of the reasons i have switched to modern installation methods, lighter materials, less dust and easier on the body.
@@SalDiBlasi ok
Try getting those proknee brand kneepads that Sal is sporting. They actually help take some stress off your lower back. They are the best.
Absolutely love your videos sal you inspire me to work harder and get better seeing your work
I appreciate that!
What are the best pair of knee pads for under $50? Or what is a good pair that any of you have owned that have lasted for awhile?
Rowdyrecords55 just bought 2 more pairs for my Dad and my Older brother.
Bought a pair for myself and my 2 younger brothers last year. Best knee pads I’ve tried in the past 10 yrs. I do tile everyday and these are a must have. Order them at Contractors Direct
1044 KP INDUSTRIES KNEE PRO ULTRA FLEX III KNEE PADS.
Thank me later🖖
They are around $30
@@davidlight5156 ended up buying a pair a few weeks ago but if they give out I'll try these. Thanks
👊👊👊👊👍👍👊👊👊👊🌹
Nice video mister ("hello from Texas") 👍
Hey, thanks!
Cora
For some reason, all of the camera movement is making me dizzy. Too much shaking and wobbling. Great tile work though. All of Sal's videos are very helpful
DI
Would you risk doing things the wrong way to keep a job that you need to support your family? I just recently started working for a company who is passionate about the way they lay tile and they've made money at it for a long time but there are some massive mistakes that I see made everyday. Even if you explain to them why they are making a mistake they still deny it. I'm slowly picking up work on my own and want to do my own thing but for now I need this job but I'm afraid I'm going to learn bad habits.
I personally try to do everything the right way, but that is not true for every installer, some think that they are doing it right because that is what they were taught, but are actually making serious mistakes, these people will often change their ways if they recognise what they are doing is wrong. Getting them to see the errors is the challenge. Then there are those that just don't care, they are just in it to make a dollar. I can't tell you what to do, but you should know what the industry standards are and do as much training as possible when you can.
I find that tile work doesn't pay much unless you're fast or you can sell your services at higher prices than what regular joes are charging. For most tile guys who can't sell their services at top dollar prices and still need to feed their family, then their only choice is to do things fast and a lot of times fast means spot bonding, spreading thinset like glue, no backbuttering. In Florida, you only get around $2 sq ft for large areas, that means you have to lay at least 400 sq ft a day to make any money......Backbuttering and leveling system would be cost prohibitive in this situation. The best way is to save money and have a large savings so you don't have to take the first job that comes your way. I pick the jobs that i want and will only work if i'm getting paid good money.....I'm willing to walk away if the customer is cheap.
Wow, very great advice. Thank you.
Let the hacks do hack jobs for the people that want to pay as little as possible, that has always been the case and will probably never change. I don't worry about those people, they are not serving the same customers as I do, people that want it done right and have it last forever. An educated customer will be more willing to pay for a job done right, so educate your customers when you meet with them.
So.... 🤔
I've given tons of thought to this for the past week.
The company I'm working for, has the clientele that I want to be in front of. It's easy for me to follow manufacturers recommendations, so I'm going to do it their way, until they stop watching me. When I get one on one with a customer, I'll teach them why I'm doing it this way. 😂
As for working on my own, around here you just need insurance. And I'm not taking the job unless they want to do it right. I'll pass it up, because I have a reliable income. I just have to sell myself everywhere I go.
Keep the steady income and only except proper jobs.
Installing tiles "dry" is a wrong technique. Tiles sooner or later are gonna get loose. Yep, it seems the tile "gets" all the mud when in contact, but what is gonna happen is that the tile will absorb lots of moisture from the mortar, no only affecting the mortar curing process, but creating a breaking point. I have seen this demolishing floors for many years.
You are stuck in the 1950s Soaking tiles, specially porcelain tiles is not needed and may do more damage than good. Porcelain have a water absorption rate of less than .5% Ceramic no more than 13% Mortars are designed for these tiles to be installed dry. The more likely reason for the failed installs that you have seen is either improper installation, the wrong mortar was used, the mortar was allowed to skin over, and a host of other reasons, not soaking the tiles is highly unlikely. Look it up in the TCNA handbook and ANSI Standards.
How is this motivational? He just showing off his work. Do you notice how he doesn't show you how to make or mark the actual cuts. This is not educational he's just trying to gain publicity.on the other hand his work looks really good.
Check my channel. ua-cam.com/users/SalDiBlasi
As a fellow tiler you are making this far more complicated than it actually is, yes it's difficult...but, it's all about 45 degrees
Not really a how to,
If you've never done a herringbone install, this video does virtually nothing to instruct you how. How to videos should follow some kind of structure to be helpful (step by step, maybe). I feel like if you actually thought the title would be accurate, then you just wasted 11 minutes.
If you have never done a herringbone, a single video is not going to teach you how, fortunI have many videos on the subject, and over 900 videos in total.