Guys, I’m not trying to eliminate “moisture” or get rid of it. I’m simply trying to get it to condense at a lower point in the hive. Preferably on the walls below the cluster. (Not on the ceiling.) It seems like a lot of people are offering solutions to wick the moisture out and I KNOW ALL ABOUT THAT. I was a Vivaldi board evangelist for 5 years. I’ve changed my thinking and I’m trying something new… an air tight hive which allows the bees to reclaim water and stay warmer with less energy. I know how to fix this. You’re seeing my progress here, not a dead end. Stay tuned. I’m already 10 steps ahead of where I was in this video.
I tilt my hives toward the entrance. I also replaced my inner cover with reflectX. The Langstroth inner cover is a design flaw. Glad to see you fixing these issues with your own ingenuity!
My one hive is a better bee , poly styrene double deep. Inner and top too . Inner has a two” hole I used for feeding, top has about a 3/8x1” screened vent. I pulled a big slab of ice from bottom board. Probably same day as your video.
You and Fred Dunn gave me a lot of confidence during my 3-4 years of research prior to becoming a hobbyist beekeeper. This is my 3rd season of actually keeping bees, bees are amazing woodland creatures. PS: Overall 6-7 years of learning about bees with half of it hands on experience with the fuzzy buzzies. Bee Barns 2.0 are going to be an improvement on an already superb design.
What about transparent inner cover? We use them here. Somebody uses glass or plexiglass in wooden frame, I am using hard food grade PVC foil (and insulation on top of it of course). The idea is that when you inspect bees in the winter just by looking, you don't crack the propolis (inslation) and you are not exposing bees directly to the cold air. And you don't need a veil :-)
It's great to see the joy on your face at learning all your colonies are alive, like a father being proud of his kids. Can I as you to send some of that nice temperature up north... Cauz as of seeing this video... Huge snowstorm here heh :)
What modifications are the clubs making? Do they have dimensions/or build plans. I'm obtaining woodworking equipment (used of course) to build my own hives, from my own wood from my land (hasn't been purchased, though it's in negotiations stage - south central arkansas), mill it and set it to dry outbuilding till next spring.
Slight design update. I'll keep an eye on your design update and also Bug Farmers. Happy to see that your design has been a success for you Jim. I think it is a good idea that you held off on the designs, people would go bonkers if anything was wrong. Can't wait to for this season to start. . Happy Beekeeping ! !
Jim, love your technical evaluation. Let me give you some experimental experiences I had this year that might give you food for thought. I ran a few of my Apimaye hives over winter with the lower box being insulated (Apimaye) with a wooden deep box on top (Insulated with a layer of that silver bubble wrap type insulation). To the letter, every single one of these died. On the flip side 90% of my colonies that I overwintered in a single deep Apimaye setup survived the winter and are thriving. My hunch is that keeping thermal stability throughout the entire hive "Column" is the key. Might be worth trying next winter to button up your colonies with just an insulated hive cover and skip the upper box entirely.
Yes, the goal is to insulate the entire column. I underestimated how much of a thermal bridge the inner cover would be. I know what I need to do. You’re spot on and I knew that, but didn’t execute it correctly. I’m on it!
@@danholtbk7008 I am in Kentucky and last year I overwintered mine with 4-5 frames of honey stores with each strong colony in a single box. In the spring they consumed between 1.5-2.5 frames of honey...the outer frames (think if you were to number them 1-10) frames 1 and 10 were not even touched! Seeing as I feed them sugar in the fall I considered all this "funny honey" and would never extract and sell it so I had LOTS of full frames of funny honey left over. Ended up storing them and using them for splits. So your mileage may vary, but last year's winter months ran from early December through the end of March. Based on my results, I think 4-5 frames of honey up your way would suffice, but 6-7 would be more than enough. Insulation is an amazing thing when you commit to it.
I've been expecting this video! Saw Boston area was going to have a warm spell so I knew the bees would be out and you'd be right there with them 😁 Troubleshooting is to be expected for any prototype, so while the flaw is unwelcome, it's no surprise that adjustments need to be made. Glad all the hives are doing well; you're definitely headed in the right direction it seems.
I'm not starting in bee keeping until I can build/buy one of your bee barns! Lol Love the content and education I get with every video you post. Thank you.
I have found older homes are drafty, but the wood can breathe so the wood doesn't often rot.. newer homes are like boats and are so well insulated; but the wood rots because wood collects water and it cannot breathe. You might look into wood home construction regarding rot mitigation and alternative methods of insulation that insulates but allows things to breathe and not collect rot. I have been noticing this connection and see other home style constructions to try and see if there is a good hybrid approach to allow the wood to breathe while insulating the home to make it more energy efficient. There has to be a way to have the best of both worlds.
I was thinking the same thing the bee's are going to produce moisture so unless its ventilated out there will be condensation. On the flip side the condensation is probably the bees only water source in the winter so might be best to not get rid of all of it
From an engineering perspective: Use a sacrificial moisture absorption agent. You're right in the aspect that where warm meets cold there will always be condensation. I expect the redesign uses the burlap as the moisture absorber. This prototype looks great, just needs the user to replace the one board every year (the metal bits can be re-used). Getting the cost down by only replacing the burlap would be exceptional.
So happy for you that your bees have done better than last year. Di you see the results of the experiment on OAV after brood break on Bob's channel. Glad you hung in there. Thank you for sharing with us and the thermal bride make sense. Maybe have the inside kinda like a French Cleat and the cover / box the opposite angle. That way they can mate easily.
I always have this feeling when I'm watching your videos, that I'm in a research group. And everytime you post is like the time the lead reports what's the latest result of experiment. Then the other researchers share what they find. Group effort. I like those groups, I learn alot and even though I don't do beekeeping (acquiring and keeping will be hard and I might get complaints from neighbors, especially since we already have wild bees flying around) I've always been interested in the subject of bees since I was a little kid. I appreciate your videos.
I got to say love the videos! I dont keep bees but do find them fascinating. I keep other animals like spiders frogs etc. And have a question I wouldn't have thought moistur would kill bees in the the first place, but is mold not an issue as you will get mold spores more bacteria and therefore more disease? Is it down to the air flow the bees create that means it doesn't affect them. I only ask as mold in my frogs terrarium is not good for them but they need high humidity so its not moisture that is bad. I do know frogs aren't bees but my spiders wouldn't survive too long in moldy conditions either. This is just a question to satisfy my own curiosity and I am looking forward to seeing how amazing your bee barns will be in the future. Keep up the great work and ignore the haters you obviously know what you are doing. 👍
Good analysis. I was rather intrigued by your desire to change the outside dimensions of the upper box, instead of presenting a flush vertical surface to the outside. Sure that makes the top bigger, and likely a little heavier and bulkier. That said, if your bees survived the winter, that's a great first iteration in your design.
Thank you for the work you do, and I applaud you for making this pretty open source. I know I’ve derived a lot of Ideas and inspiration from what you have brought to the table.
I’m pleased your having this problem (hear me out) I’m very close to making a hybrid design but that top edge of the brood box was area of concern. I’m pleased I wasn’t imagining it and I’m pleased your going to solve it for me.
A thin siding insulation that runs to the top then your thicker insulation. Should move the condensation point to between the two insulation layers and away from the wood.
Wonderfull, congrats! Ceep in mind, they are very good insulated so they will breed earlier. This means, they will need more food. Always pay attention to that. Even with this big hive.
Jim, I noticed that on the frame you pulled from the Beech hive that the brood was at the top of the frame, as is normal in winter. In a conventional hive you can swap the two brood boxes to 'recenter' the brood area. Do you think that not being able to do this with the large frames will be an issue and have you previously swapped brood boxes in the Spring? I'm in CA and new to beekeeping (2 years) and would like to get a copy of your hive design when it's available. Your videos have been very helpful.
That was not brood. That’s capped honey. The bees will need all the resources in the boxes before the brood rearing goes into high gear. We have two months before there’s any significant forage. That honey will all be used or shuffled around. They know where to put brood when it’s time.
@@vinofarm Thanks Jim for the reply. I already have brood in my hives' top chamber as its been unseasonably warm here in CA for many weeks. Hence my assumption that it was brood. Nectarines, Almonds and plums all have been in blossom already in the CA foothills. .
Passive House does have something to teach the beekeepers. Check out the video I created a while ago. We are talking the same language: ua-cam.com/video/CasrjYhZB1M/v-deo.html
I think I’ll construct mine with a “Leyans style” construction for the bottom brood chamber instead of insulated an existing deep+shallow chamber. But all super remain standard super.
Seems to me you just need a different winter cover. A single unit that slides down to fit over the bee box. Think old style shoe box, where the lid extends down the sides of the box on all four sides. Make it extend a few of inches down farther than the angled wood, with insulation to interrupt the bridge. I would do a peaked “roof” on the outside to allow snow and rain to run off, rather than a flat roof. Insulate the “attic” space, of course. The black plastic you used would be a good material..lightweight but waterproof. I think the box design is awesome!
I am building my bee barns this spring and I am toying with a couple ideas on the "thermal bridge" problem. Since I am working with 10 frame hives and building an 8-frame bee barn, my I feel like my insulation can come up and block that bridge... at least on 2 sides. On the other 2 sides, I am still not 100% sure what I am going to do. Maybe thinning out the sloped roof near there, or thin metal roofing/flashing material. What ideas are you kicking around?
Jim - much respect. Wishing you good luck as you deal with this hiccup - and refine the design to your needs. And a very sincere thank you for sharing so openly all that you learn and develop. I believe the design of the bee barn will continue to be a blessing to the honey bees and beekeepers!
Jim - you probably already accounted for this in design 2.0, but in correcting the thermal bridge issue, don't forget to keep room for a queen excluder.
I have copied your black, styrofoam enclosure, the one you were going to use on the tops of your bee-barns, and didn't. Last weekend we had 60F in the Catskills, so I took a look. Three out of four of my colonies survived, all in good shape. The one that didn't was the weakest. It swarmed at the end of July, so I didn't have very high hopes. The insulation works. This year I will improve on the insulation, without going as far as your bee barn... yet!
I love your videos documenting your attempts to learn more. You go above and beyond for your bees. Thank you for sharing. I didn’t winterize last year. My bees made it in zone 7. I’m thinking I should do more to winterize so I can have stronger hives in the spring.
Look into Oxine AH to clean up and sanitize the moldy lids. It's like a food grade bleach and should clean those up if you're wanting to do it safely. Just a tiny amount per gallon of water goes a long way. Am I really hearing subliminal digs towards some grumpy old man?😂😂
The flaw is that you have insulation blocking any air flow out of the hive that would carry away and out the moisture. Bees do fine with cold temps. Much respect
I Have to agree with you totally. If you worked with home construction or firefighting, which I have done both, you understand the importance of air movement and how it works. I can't tell you the number of times I have seen mold and moisture build up in attics of homes all due to one thing, no air in and out. And it all happens during the winter. All of these attics with mold had no or not enough soffit vents to push air upwards and out the ridge vent. once the soffit vents were installed, mold and moisture was gone 100%. Hives are no different. By tightening up a hive too much, you pressurize the inside, trapping moisture. That moisture gets heated and cooled by ambient temps between the colony and the outside temps. The cold air will fill the hive even with 12 inches of insulation around it unless you have a constant heat source that can constantly combat the cold. Bees are not and cannot be a heat source for the hive body, only for their cluster. As clusters decline that heat source declines. We wrap hives to keep wind chills away. A steady flow of air movement, even just a little is an absolute must. And it has to follow from a down to up fashion. Allowing moisture to just flow down the walls will create an ice or frost on the sides, creating a chest freezer for the bees. I applaud the design, but air has to flow in and out. if this design incorporates air flow, he will have a good design.
Regarding top issue, put a triangle wedge of Styrofoam or something and just run a strip of sealer. My husband used a caulking gun and silicone stuff to seal roof issues that were leaking in metal roof where screws were. It DEFINITELY sealed the gap. If your interested, I can get the name of it. I was thinking of using it on my hives next winter to seal any gaps between boxes.
The goal is living, productive bees. This is how I’m attaining that goal. If you can do it another way, awesome. Please make a UA-cam video about it and I’ll come leave a snarky comment on it.
@@jimbozerothtee4131 If what I’ve done is so bad, why are my bees alive? It seems like this may be the first video of mine that you’ve watched. The lack of ventilation is intentional. See the pinned comment. I made a very thorough video explaining what this is all about three videos back called “I was Wrong - Better Beehive Winterization” This is all part of a plan. You are seeing a minor hiccup. It’s going to be fixed for next winter.
Learn from your Experience If you don't learn from your mistakes, you are doomed to repeat them If you don't learn from your successes, you won't understand how to replicate them in the future
Piece of cheap window screen layed over frames will stop condensation from falling on them. Lay it over your brood frames this spring and your bees will propolize it heavily over brood frames to control humidity and temp. Then use that in winter. The screen holds drops of condensation. The propolis keeps it from falling on your cluster. Bees will make themselves an umbrella if you give them the tools needed. Plus they can remove propolis as needed. In the wild, bees propolise the tree interior to protect against condensation. Try it on one hive for 2 months, and you will be a believer. Use the propolized screen in a swarm bait trap. Styrofoam box with screen attached to tops. The guide strips are already there. You can cut screen in strips withand comb and staple to the frame when installing in nuc. Or use the screen on a weaker hive. The insulation and protection properties are amazing. Plus, the screen lets BEES control ventilation/ humidity as they see fit. In an emergency, pour thin layer of wax on the window screen if they have no way to propolise it. Poke a few tiny holes. Bees will remove wax as needed. Plastic coated fiberglass window screen. Try this hack and you will never go back to anything else. It's important that the screen lay directly on top of frames.
Hi Jim. I love your design and results. I have been saying for years that we need to come up with a way that more mimics a tree and this gets us as close as we might be able to come and still manage. That said have you released the plans yet for the bee barn for those of us not quite as inventive to be able to better overwinter our bees. I know you said that you didnt want to release multiple versions of the plan and having them floating around and you were going to do some possible tweaks for the moisture issue you saw and maybe some other improvements. But I would be interested in version 1 so that I can stop having so much overwinter kill. I am in Michigan and it seems like things are looking good and then we get a warm spell in Feb/March and then a super (extended) cold spell, sometimes multiple of them warm/cold cycles, and the bees have a hard time coming out of that. Like they never quite get back in cluster. Anyway if I could build version 1 (and make any updates later as they are released) I would greatly appreciate it. You can PM me if you would like to keep the plans from the public view. What you have now is way better than what I have been doing and I would deal with the moisture issue as is until the fix is figured out. Thanks!! monte.mcmartin@gmail.com
You should try with one hive a For comparison to eliminate the inner cover and just cover with a canvas type sheet and a blanket. I believe the lack of moisture escape causes the molding. Also if there's extra outside frames that are not used by the bees could be removed to improve better air circulation, because you can tell that what ever area bees are occupying, that area is dry from moisture. So far I'm happy with eliminating the inner cover, all the moisture is getting saturated into a blanket. I'm in Pacific North West, with changing temperatures and high moisture level.
After watching multiple videos of your designs, I think I will go simple here in Oklahoma. It doesn't get as cold or last as long as your Northern winters here. I am thinking a rectangle shaped insulated box to simply slide over the entire hive structure (except for the lower entrance) with another piece ratchet strapped to the bottom.
Super! Nice test out and totally understand your needed to test your prototype before launching it. I still love this design. It will totally save my back!
Have you considered dipping the frame in paraffin wax? Seems like that would help with the molding issues in addition to making the additional modifications? Maybe instead of the brood box line up with the outside insulation it protrude out by 1/2 inch or an inch, the melted ice from the heat at the gap can run down and escape through the sloping part. Or some kind of o-ring rubber gasket between on top edge of brood box or both side of top cover to make a water tight seal so the melted ice from the heat at the gap won’t seep in. Or just a simple tarp over the entire bee barn so there is no direct snow contact with the barn (like a rain coat). By the way I really like the methodical approach you take in identifying the problem and experiment to resolve the problem. I can’t wait to see your new design.
It looks like you have the upper entrances on the inner cover closed/blocked with a small piece of wood? That would be a ventilation issue and contributing to the moisture issue?!
Good news on your hives. On the blue Styrofoam insulation, we added that to our hives, but the black carpenter ants 🐜 made nests in this insulation. Do you have any issues with carpenter ants getting in insulation?
I would use any type of natural fibre insulation such as wood fibre, sheep wool, and hemp. These are used in applications where it is necessary to regulate humidity inside of a building from a type of natural fibre insulation this would also be hygroscopic insulations for the hive 🙃 hemp would be a great one two start out with
I think a tongue and groove lip for the top lid to go down into the hive insulation, where outside wood meets outside wood and inside insulation meets inside insulation. Great videos. I will move on to see what happened...lol I just thought I would share my thoughts.
Thanks for all your work. Curious if the long form frames would increase the possibility of "rolling" your bees when doing inspections? (I think that is the term, but I am relatively new to this... also wish there was a comment search tool in youtube so I could see if you have been asked this yet)
I have follow boards (spacers) on the outsides, as seen when I removed the frame in this video. I remove the spacer first which gives me plenty of wiggle room to pull the long frames. I always remove a spacer first.
I would love to buy one of your boxes to test in the South where its hot & humid, and then in winter, one day its 70, then next day its 30. It's hard to insulate those extremes.
The poly on top may be adding to it. Perhaps use some water wicking material such as wool or other animal hair in a cloth bag. Maybe a small vent at top to allow warm moist air to escape.
I love following your testing and innovation. One thought to consider : could the 2 inch foam on surface above inner-cover (with those vents) causing the moisture in the hive to be trapped under the foam and then building. The inner-cover is porous so it’s absorbing on both sides. But the center of the inner-cover has airflow from the bee cluster thus preventing collection of moisture. I think if you put the foam on top of the burlap and put cross venting on sides of top box. You may solve your problem. If you add more 2” foam and cap it with 2” foam you may trap the moisture created by the cluster. Just a thought to consider.
may you put window weather strips made from rubber at the border of the led and at the facing edge and when tieying them together by straps, they will prevent draft.
I have to wonder if your mold problem is caused by there not being any ventilation in the top to help with the moisture. Still great success with the bees this winter.
I am Glad for u with your loss, I have lost 8 and I am very happy with that last year I had a great loss, any way good for you glad it is working out for u have a blessed week
An old timer told me that "wet bees are not dead bees BUT dead bees are wet. Like most things a strong, healthy hive cam adjust the moisture and deal with it. I've had hives in Northern IN where the covers have blown off and survived after rain, snow and cold weather.
Here in ND I had a hive flipped on its side by a bull and no lid, cluster exposed to -10 f all night. Flipped it up, put everything back together and it lived. I don't even wrap hives and we have had 3 days per week -30 since Jan 1st . . I'm exhausted just thinking about this kind of work and scale when you have more than 8-10 :)
Curious if you would consider adding one traditional Langstroth hive with your temp monitor as a control hive for a year? Would help you show pro/cons of what's going on.
I get asked this all the time. I kept bees in traditional Langstroth boxes for 5 years. Then I switched to these hives. I don’t have sensor data, but I have my personal experience with my own eyes and ears with 12 colonies of bees in the same location and the difference in hive strength is huge. I’m not a scientist and not publishing papers and not trying to convince anyone to buy anything. I’m just making videos reporting what I see in my backyard. I’m never going back to un-insulated hives. I just can’t do that to the bees.
Please share your thoughts on a fix for the mold issue. I'm starting my very first hives this spring. I'm in upstate NY and I know you're hives work because I've been following you. It's your experience and skills and most of all COMMON SENSE APPROACH.
The fix is to prevent condensation from forming on the inner cover. Where the bees were able to keep the inner cover warm, no condensation formed. The goal is to make it so they can heat the whole thing… MORE insulation. NO thermal bridges.
Oh no, I already started building. Quick quick with the update ;) no just kidding, this will need only minor adjustments. Are your big frames solid enough?
I hope ur right but I disagree. I believe your moisture is coming from inside. Breathe into a plastic bag for 1 minute. You’ll find moisture, Breathing expels air. Thanks for the videos
Yes. Thats what I’m saying. The moisture IS inside. The cold is coming from the outside. The moisture in the air (inside the hive) is condensing on the surfaces that are being cooled from the thermal bridge (the wood exposed to the outside air.)
I understand about moist air hitting cold surfaces and condensing and your plan to keep moisture away from cold inner surfaces by not having any. What I don't really get though is your theory that the bees will handle (or accept) the humidity without having ventilation (other than the reduced lower entrance). In summer they would have this ventilation route available. I am afraid of trusting that you can ever have enough insulation that moisture is not going to hit a cold surface and condense eventually without ventilation. Having said that your results are impressive so far. I used your modified folding cover method 2 winters ago (4 sides) with vivaldi board and it was a huge success. This winter though I lost 2/3 of my hives and I think it WAS due to moisture (lots of uncapped honey from late fall flows and very very cold (-35C) temperatures). In Ontario, average losses this winter was over 50%.
Trees don’t have upper ventilation. Feral colonies living in the wall cavities of houses don’t have upper ventilation. When I give the bees upper ventilation, they propolize it shut. A single lower entrance to a all they need. 12/12 colonies survived last winter with a badly designed inner cover and an abundance of water dripping from the ceiling. The bees will not “live with” excess humidity, they will manage it. They know what they want and they manage the temps and humidity. The goal is to give them a sealed, insulated space for them to manage… No wild temp swings, drafts or chimney effects to worry about. Just stable air that they can move how they see fit.
Losing ~all of your beehives one year has to be one of the worst feelings. But coming back the next year with ~100% survival has to be one of the best feelings. Congrats.
I think that bee- barn is way to complicated .Keep the things simple. Here in Germany, i keep my bees in simple wooden hives for years. We had 2 really cold winters ( -10 to -15°C) and all of my bees survived it without any insulation. The bees dont keep the heat in the whole hive, just in the inner of the cluster.
They don’t heat the whole hive because an un-insulated hive box bleeds off all the heat they produce. In a well-insulated box or a thick tree cavity, the heat they produce will certainly heat the whole space.
If you went to a clear plastic inner cover, you would eliminate the spot where the cold is causing condensation. I use a clear plastic cut to box size about the thickness of a gallon milk container, I don't know what mil but maybe 25 mil? I've also seen people using 1/16th inch plexiglass which would allow the holes and grids to be used like you currently have. My plastic thickness is too flexible but I never get mold growing between it and the foam insulation. Nothing for the mold to eat like the wet wood does. And, it's so non invasive to just lift the outer cover and see the bees without smoke or them flying, getting chilled, whatever. Keep exploring, there's better hive solutions than 3/4 inch hive going through winter forcing the bees to burn honey like anyone in an uninsulated house would.
Guys, I’m not trying to eliminate “moisture” or get rid of it. I’m simply trying to get it to condense at a lower point in the hive. Preferably on the walls below the cluster. (Not on the ceiling.)
It seems like a lot of people are offering solutions to wick the moisture out and I KNOW ALL ABOUT THAT. I was a Vivaldi board evangelist for 5 years. I’ve changed my thinking and I’m trying something new… an air tight hive which allows the bees to reclaim water and stay warmer with less energy.
I know how to fix this. You’re seeing my progress here, not a dead end. Stay tuned. I’m already 10 steps ahead of where I was in this video.
Looking forward to seeing your solution. I’ll be starting on a hybrid between yours and bugfarmer very soon.
I tilt my hives toward the entrance. I also replaced my inner cover with reflectX. The Langstroth inner cover is a design flaw. Glad to see you fixing these issues with your own ingenuity!
Hmm
My one hive is a better bee , poly styrene double deep. Inner and top too . Inner has a two” hole I used for feeding, top has about a 3/8x1” screened vent. I pulled a big slab of ice from bottom board. Probably same day as your video.
I threw some pounds sub on today. What could be the consequences of such an early deed ?
🇺🇦
You and Fred Dunn gave me a lot of confidence during my 3-4 years of research prior to becoming a hobbyist beekeeper. This is my 3rd season of actually keeping bees, bees are amazing woodland creatures.
PS: Overall 6-7 years of learning about bees with half of it hands on experience with the fuzzy buzzies. Bee Barns 2.0 are going to be an improvement on an already superb design.
What about transparent inner cover? We use them here. Somebody uses glass or plexiglass in wooden frame, I am using hard food grade PVC foil (and insulation on top of it of course). The idea is that when you inspect bees in the winter just by looking, you don't crack the propolis (inslation) and you are not exposing bees directly to the cold air. And you don't need a veil :-)
Shhhhh…. Don’t ruin the surprise.
We can buy glas top covers in our area for our hives. In general I take them off before winter because wood isolates better.
It's great to see the joy on your face at learning all your colonies are alive, like a father being proud of his kids. Can I as you to send some of that nice temperature up north... Cauz as of seeing this video... Huge snowstorm here heh :)
It was 60° for about an hour and then the temp plummeted. Currently snowing with about 8” so far today.
@@vinofarm
Ouch.
I'm seeing a lot of people in different beekeeping clubs copy your designs. Must be great inspiration🐝👍
What modifications are the clubs making? Do they have dimensions/or build plans. I'm obtaining woodworking equipment (used of course) to build my own hives, from my own wood from my land (hasn't been purchased, though it's in negotiations stage - south central arkansas), mill it and set it to dry outbuilding till next spring.
Slight design update. I'll keep an eye on your design update and also Bug Farmers. Happy to see that your design has been a success for you Jim. I think it is a good idea that you held off on the designs, people would go bonkers if anything was wrong. Can't wait to for this season to start. . Happy Beekeeping ! !
Jim, love your technical evaluation. Let me give you some experimental experiences I had this year that might give you food for thought. I ran a few of my Apimaye hives over winter with the lower box being insulated (Apimaye) with a wooden deep box on top (Insulated with a layer of that silver bubble wrap type insulation). To the letter, every single one of these died. On the flip side 90% of my colonies that I overwintered in a single deep Apimaye setup survived the winter and are thriving. My hunch is that keeping thermal stability throughout the entire hive "Column" is the key. Might be worth trying next winter to button up your colonies with just an insulated hive cover and skip the upper box entirely.
Yes, the goal is to insulate the entire column. I underestimated how much of a thermal bridge the inner cover would be. I know what I need to do. You’re spot on and I knew that, but didn’t execute it correctly. I’m on it!
@@danholtbk7008 I am in Kentucky and last year I overwintered mine with 4-5 frames of honey stores with each strong colony in a single box. In the spring they consumed between 1.5-2.5 frames of honey...the outer frames (think if you were to number them 1-10) frames 1 and 10 were not even touched! Seeing as I feed them sugar in the fall I considered all this "funny honey" and would never extract and sell it so I had LOTS of full frames of funny honey left over. Ended up storing them and using them for splits. So your mileage may vary, but last year's winter months ran from early December through the end of March. Based on my results, I think 4-5 frames of honey up your way would suffice, but 6-7 would be more than enough. Insulation is an amazing thing when you commit to it.
I've been expecting this video! Saw Boston area was going to have a warm spell so I knew the bees would be out and you'd be right there with them 😁
Troubleshooting is to be expected for any prototype, so while the flaw is unwelcome, it's no surprise that adjustments need to be made.
Glad all the hives are doing well; you're definitely headed in the right direction it seems.
I'm not starting in bee keeping until I can build/buy one of your bee barns! Lol Love the content and education I get with every video you post. Thank you.
I have found older homes are drafty, but the wood can breathe so the wood doesn't often rot.. newer homes are like boats and are so well insulated; but the wood rots because wood collects water and it cannot breathe.
You might look into wood home construction regarding rot mitigation and alternative methods of insulation that insulates but allows things to breathe and not collect rot.
I have been noticing this connection and see other home style constructions to try and see if there is a good hybrid approach to allow the wood to breathe while insulating the home to make it more energy efficient. There has to be a way to have the best of both worlds.
I was thinking the same thing the bee's are going to produce moisture so unless its ventilated out there will be condensation.
On the flip side the condensation is probably the bees only water source in the winter so might be best to not get rid of all of it
@@jbeebuchanan2136 I always thought, the honey provided all the moisture needed.
@@jameswoenker2659 actually they need moisture in the spring to add water to dilute the honey in order the process and feed brood
@@PutEmInTheBox interesting
@@jameswoenker2659 "the thirst of a hive"
Jim, it looked like the Birch hive didn’t have near as much mold or moisture issues. Am I correct? If so do you have an idea on why less moisture?
Probably just a smaller cluster creating less water. The largest hives were the wettest.
From an engineering perspective: Use a sacrificial moisture absorption agent. You're right in the aspect that where warm meets cold there will always be condensation. I expect the redesign uses the burlap as the moisture absorber.
This prototype looks great, just needs the user to replace the one board every year (the metal bits can be re-used). Getting the cost down by only replacing the burlap would be exceptional.
So happy for you that your bees have done better than last year. Di you see the results of the experiment on OAV after brood break on Bob's channel. Glad you hung in there. Thank you for sharing with us and the thermal bride make sense. Maybe have the inside kinda like a French Cleat and the cover / box the opposite angle. That way they can mate easily.
I always have this feeling when I'm watching your videos, that I'm in a research group. And everytime you post is like the time the lead reports what's the latest result of experiment. Then the other researchers share what they find. Group effort.
I like those groups, I learn alot and even though I don't do beekeeping (acquiring and keeping will be hard and I might get complaints from neighbors, especially since we already have wild bees flying around) I've always been interested in the subject of bees since I was a little kid. I appreciate your videos.
I got to say love the videos!
I dont keep bees but do find them fascinating. I keep other animals like spiders frogs etc. And have a question I wouldn't have thought moistur would kill bees in the the first place, but is mold not an issue as you will get mold spores more bacteria and therefore more disease? Is it down to the air flow the bees create that means it doesn't affect them. I only ask as mold in my frogs terrarium is not good for them but they need high humidity so its not moisture that is bad. I do know frogs aren't bees but my spiders wouldn't survive too long in moldy conditions either.
This is just a question to satisfy my own curiosity and I am looking forward to seeing how amazing your bee barns will be in the future.
Keep up the great work and ignore the haters you obviously know what you are doing. 👍
Good analysis. I was rather intrigued by your desire to change the outside dimensions of the upper box, instead of presenting a flush vertical surface to the outside. Sure that makes the top bigger, and likely a little heavier and bulkier.
That said, if your bees survived the winter, that's a great first iteration in your design.
Thank you for the work you do, and I applaud you for making this pretty open source. I know I’ve derived a lot of Ideas and inspiration from what you have brought to the table.
You are going to have some massive swarmy hives come May. if they are doing this well now, they will explode in Spring.
So it seems like bees are ok with the cold just that the mites are the issue last year
I’m pleased your having this problem (hear me out) I’m very close to making a hybrid design but that top edge of the brood box was area of concern. I’m pleased I wasn’t imagining it and I’m pleased your going to solve it for me.
A thin siding insulation that runs to the top then your thicker insulation. Should move the condensation point to between the two insulation layers and away from the wood.
You could say the designs are in Beeta....
Wonderfull, congrats! Ceep in mind, they are very good insulated so they will breed earlier. This means, they will need more food. Always pay attention to that. Even with this big hive.
Jim, I noticed that on the frame you pulled from the Beech hive that the brood was at the top of the frame, as is normal in winter. In a conventional hive you can swap the two brood boxes to 'recenter' the brood area. Do you think that not being able to do this with the large frames will be an issue and have you previously swapped brood boxes in the Spring?
I'm in CA and new to beekeeping (2 years) and would like to get a copy of your hive design when it's available. Your videos have been very helpful.
That was not brood. That’s capped honey. The bees will need all the resources in the boxes before the brood rearing goes into high gear. We have two months before there’s any significant forage. That honey will all be used or shuffled around. They know where to put brood when it’s time.
@@vinofarm Thanks Jim for the reply. I already have brood in my hives' top chamber as its been unseasonably warm here in CA for many weeks. Hence my assumption that it was brood. Nectarines, Almonds and plums all have been in blossom already in the CA foothills.
.
Dew point! If you make the dew point happen in the middle of hard foam, you will have no moisture inside.
Exactly.
Maybe a domed inner cover. So moisture runs down the sides.
Or tip hive with shim so it follows gravity
I like your hive design. Have you thought about integrating a better moisture exhaust?
No. Check the pinned comment.
Passive House does have something to teach the beekeepers. Check out the video I created a while ago. We are talking the same language: ua-cam.com/video/CasrjYhZB1M/v-deo.html
Great video. This is exactly what I’m trying to do. Stay tuned for version 2.0.
Thanks for the video
I think I’ll construct mine with a “Leyans style” construction for the bottom brood chamber instead of insulated an existing deep+shallow chamber. But all super remain standard super.
Great info, thanks
Just trap vertical isolated plate in vertical space between the hive and wood block
Great winter update. Glad bees continue to fare well. Best wishes as you figure out path forward on the winter condensation problem.
Great Job Jim!! I'm anxious for the shop to get a bit warmer up north here to get trying out some of your ideas with some modifications.
Excellent content, really appreciate the knowledge you're sharing.
Strong hives! Good job. In April, I expect to see some dancing after you celebrate the survivals.
Thanks Jim ! Love your videos. You always have have great info to share and appreciate it. It’s great to see that all the girls are out and flying.
Seems to me you just need a different winter cover. A single unit that slides down to fit over the bee box. Think old style shoe box, where the lid extends down the sides of the box on all four sides. Make it extend a few of inches down farther than the angled wood, with insulation to interrupt the bridge.
I would do a peaked “roof” on the outside to allow snow and rain to run off, rather than a flat roof. Insulate the “attic” space, of course.
The black plastic you used would be a good material..lightweight but waterproof.
I think the box design is awesome!
Keep up the brilliant work, sir. 😎
Love seeing the development of an improved langstroth box. Perhaps changing the inner cover to a foam one would fix your condensation problem.
Watching you from France. You really inspire me. Thanks for all yours experiences you sharing with us.
60 degree good"no complian from Gary...
60 degree in Jamaica would stress /cramp my hives
I am building my bee barns this spring and I am toying with a couple ideas on the "thermal bridge" problem. Since I am working with 10 frame hives and building an 8-frame bee barn, my I feel like my insulation can come up and block that bridge... at least on 2 sides. On the other 2 sides, I am still not 100% sure what I am going to do. Maybe thinning out the sloped roof near there, or thin metal roofing/flashing material. What ideas are you kicking around?
Jim - much respect. Wishing you good luck as you deal with this hiccup - and refine the design to your needs. And a very sincere thank you for sharing so openly all that you learn and develop. I believe the design of the bee barn will continue to be a blessing to the honey bees and beekeepers!
Thanks, Julie!
Jim - you probably already accounted for this in design 2.0, but in correcting the thermal bridge issue, don't forget to keep room for a queen excluder.
I have copied your black, styrofoam enclosure, the one you were going to use on the tops of your bee-barns, and didn't. Last weekend we had 60F in the Catskills, so I took a look. Three out of four of my colonies survived, all in good shape. The one that didn't was the weakest. It swarmed at the end of July, so I didn't have very high hopes. The insulation works. This year I will improve on the insulation, without going as far as your bee barn... yet!
I love your videos documenting your attempts to learn more. You go above and beyond for your bees. Thank you for sharing. I didn’t winterize last year. My bees made it in zone 7. I’m thinking I should do more to winterize so I can have stronger hives in the spring.
Look into Oxine AH to clean up and sanitize the moldy lids. It's like a food grade bleach and should clean those up if you're wanting to do it safely. Just a tiny amount per gallon of water goes a long way. Am I really hearing subliminal digs towards some grumpy old man?😂😂
The flaw is that you have insulation blocking any air flow out of the hive that would carry away and out the moisture. Bees do fine with cold temps.
Much respect
I Have to agree with you totally. If you worked with home construction or firefighting, which I have done both, you understand the importance of air movement and how it works. I can't tell you the number of times I have seen mold and moisture build up in attics of homes all due to one thing, no air in and out. And it all happens during the winter. All of these attics with mold had no or not enough soffit vents to push air upwards and out the ridge vent. once the soffit vents were installed, mold and moisture was gone 100%. Hives are no different. By tightening up a hive too much, you pressurize the inside, trapping moisture. That moisture gets heated and cooled by ambient temps between the colony and the outside temps. The cold air will fill the hive even with 12 inches of insulation around it unless you have a constant heat source that can constantly combat the cold. Bees are not and cannot be a heat source for the hive body, only for their cluster. As clusters decline that heat source declines. We wrap hives to keep wind chills away. A steady flow of air movement, even just a little is an absolute must. And it has to follow from a down to up fashion. Allowing moisture to just flow down the walls will create an ice or frost on the sides, creating a chest freezer for the bees. I applaud the design, but air has to flow in and out. if this design incorporates air flow, he will have a good design.
Regarding top issue, put a triangle wedge of Styrofoam or something and just run a strip of sealer. My husband used a caulking gun and silicone stuff to seal roof issues that were leaking in metal roof where screws were. It DEFINITELY sealed the gap. If your interested, I can get the name of it. I was thinking of using it on my hives next winter to seal any gaps between boxes.
Seems like an awful lot of extra equipment to end up with the same result with regular equipment.
The goal is living, productive bees. This is how I’m attaining that goal. If you can do it another way, awesome. Please make a UA-cam video about it and I’ll come leave a snarky comment on it.
@@jimbozerothtee4131 If what I’ve done is so bad, why are my bees alive? It seems like this may be the first video of mine that you’ve watched. The lack of ventilation is intentional. See the pinned comment. I made a very thorough video explaining what this is all about three videos back called “I was Wrong - Better Beehive Winterization” This is all part of a plan. You are seeing a minor hiccup. It’s going to be fixed for next winter.
Learn from your Experience
If you don't learn from your mistakes, you are doomed to repeat them
If you don't learn from your successes, you won't understand how to replicate them in the future
Piece of cheap window screen layed over frames will stop condensation from falling on them. Lay it over your brood frames this spring and your bees will propolize it heavily over brood frames to control humidity and temp. Then use that in winter. The screen holds drops of condensation. The propolis keeps it from falling on your cluster. Bees will make themselves an umbrella if you give them the tools needed. Plus they can remove propolis as needed. In the wild, bees propolise the tree interior to protect against condensation. Try it on one hive for 2 months, and you will be a believer. Use the propolized screen in a swarm bait trap. Styrofoam box with screen attached to tops. The guide strips are already there. You can cut screen in strips withand comb and staple to the frame when installing in nuc. Or use the screen on a weaker hive. The insulation and protection properties are amazing. Plus, the screen lets BEES control ventilation/ humidity as they see fit. In an emergency, pour thin layer of wax on the window screen if they have no way to propolise it. Poke a few tiny holes. Bees will remove wax as needed. Plastic coated fiberglass window screen. Try this hack and you will never go back to anything else. It's important that the screen lay directly on top of frames.
Hi Jim. I love your design and results. I have been saying for years that we need to come up with a way that more mimics a tree and this gets us as close as we might be able to come and still manage. That said have you released the plans yet for the bee barn for those of us not quite as inventive to be able to better overwinter our bees. I know you said that you didnt want to release multiple versions of the plan and having them floating around and you were going to do some possible tweaks for the moisture issue you saw and maybe some other improvements. But I would be interested in version 1 so that I can stop having so much overwinter kill. I am in Michigan and it seems like things are looking good and then we get a warm spell in Feb/March and then a super (extended) cold spell, sometimes multiple of them warm/cold cycles, and the bees have a hard time coming out of that. Like they never quite get back in cluster. Anyway if I could build version 1 (and make any updates later as they are released) I would greatly appreciate it. You can PM me if you would like to keep the plans from the public view. What you have now is way better than what I have been doing and I would deal with the moisture issue as is until the fix is figured out. Thanks!! monte.mcmartin@gmail.com
You should try with one hive a
For comparison to eliminate the inner cover and just cover with a canvas type sheet and a blanket. I believe the lack of moisture escape causes the molding. Also if there's extra outside frames that are not used by the bees could be removed to improve better air circulation, because you can tell that what ever area bees are occupying, that area is dry from moisture. So far I'm happy with eliminating the inner cover, all the moisture is getting saturated into a blanket. I'm in Pacific North West, with changing temperatures and high moisture level.
After watching multiple videos of your designs, I think I will go simple here in Oklahoma. It doesn't get as cold or last as long as your Northern winters here. I am thinking a rectangle shaped insulated box to simply slide over the entire hive structure (except for the lower entrance) with another piece ratchet strapped to the bottom.
Maybe already suggested... shorten the slanted top boards and run insulation further down the sides of the upper hive body? Break the bridge.
Super! Nice test out and totally understand your needed to test your prototype before launching it.
I still love this design. It will totally save my back!
Have you considered dipping the frame in paraffin wax? Seems like that would help with the molding issues in addition to making the additional modifications?
Maybe instead of the brood box line up with the outside insulation it protrude out by 1/2 inch or an inch, the melted ice from the heat at the gap can run down and escape through the sloping part.
Or some kind of o-ring rubber gasket between on top edge of brood box or both side of top cover to make a water tight seal so the melted ice from the heat at the gap won’t seep in.
Or just a simple tarp over the entire bee barn so there is no direct snow contact with the barn (like a rain coat).
By the way I really like the methodical approach you take in identifying the problem and experiment to resolve the problem.
I can’t wait to see your new design.
Great news Mate. Everything looking good. Chris In the UK.
It looks like you have the upper entrances on the inner cover closed/blocked with a small piece of wood? That would be a ventilation issue and contributing to the moisture issue?!
Hi i like what you doing so keep up greet work. Abdo from North Africa Libya alkhoms
Thanks for the update. Long live BALBOA !!!!
Good news on your hives. On the blue Styrofoam insulation, we added that to our hives, but the black carpenter ants 🐜 made nests in this insulation. Do you have any issues with carpenter ants getting in insulation?
Since you only have the problem during winter, what about adding a candy board to absorb the moisture?
I would use any type of natural fibre insulation such as wood fibre, sheep wool, and hemp. These are used in applications where it is necessary to regulate humidity inside of a building from a type of natural fibre insulation this would also be hygroscopic insulations for the hive 🙃 hemp would be a great one two start out with
I think a tongue and groove lip for the top lid to go down into the hive insulation, where outside wood meets outside wood and inside insulation meets inside insulation. Great videos. I will move on to see what happened...lol I just thought I would share my thoughts.
Thanks for all your work. Curious if the long form frames would increase the possibility of "rolling" your bees when doing inspections? (I think that is the term, but I am relatively new to this... also wish there was a comment search tool in youtube so I could see if you have been asked this yet)
I have follow boards (spacers) on the outsides, as seen when I removed the frame in this video. I remove the spacer first which gives me plenty of wiggle room to pull the long frames. I always remove a spacer first.
I would love to buy one of your boxes to test in the South where its hot & humid, and then in winter, one day its 70, then next day its 30. It's hard to insulate those extremes.
I wonder if the moisture can be mitigated by adding a bunch of silica packs to absorb it.
The poly on top may be adding to it. Perhaps use some water wicking material such as wool or other animal hair in a cloth bag. Maybe a small vent at top to allow warm moist air to escape.
👏🏻
Good to see your problems as well as your success . Honest guy. Keep up the good work and enjoy your bees.
I love following your testing and innovation.
One thought to consider : could the 2 inch foam on surface above inner-cover (with those vents) causing the moisture in the hive to be trapped under the foam and then building. The inner-cover is porous so it’s absorbing on both sides. But the center of the inner-cover has airflow from the bee cluster thus preventing collection of moisture.
I think if you put the foam on top of the burlap and put cross venting on sides of top box. You may solve your problem.
If you add more 2” foam and cap it with 2” foam you may trap the moisture created by the cluster.
Just a thought to consider.
Great inspiration
Going to try
I have 30 hives every year I loose 1/2
Makes a lot of sense
may you put window weather strips made from rubber at the border of the led and at the facing edge and when tieying them together by straps, they will prevent draft.
Coat the covers in bees wax to prevent moisture from soaking into wood.
I have to wonder if your mold problem is caused by there not being any ventilation in the top to help with the moisture. Still great success with the bees this winter.
I am Glad for u with your loss, I have lost 8 and I am very happy with that last year I had a great loss, any way good for you glad it is working out for u have a blessed week
Gidday from Oz, Love your work and great vids!
Holy Mackerel! THAT sucker is insulated!!
Wahooo!! More than half way home, go Vino Bees!!!🐝💞
Just interacting with the videos to push up the algorithm
Looking good, you got bees 🐝 😊 hoping you have a great year
An old timer told me that "wet bees are not dead bees BUT dead bees are wet. Like most things a strong, healthy hive cam adjust the moisture and deal with it. I've had hives in Northern IN where the covers have blown off and survived after rain, snow and cold weather.
Here in ND I had a hive flipped on its side by a bull and no lid, cluster exposed to -10 f all night. Flipped it up, put everything back together and it lived.
I don't even wrap hives and we have had 3 days per week -30 since Jan 1st . . I'm exhausted just thinking about this kind of work and scale when you have more than 8-10 :)
Curious if you would consider adding one traditional Langstroth hive with your temp monitor as a control hive for a year? Would help you show pro/cons of what's going on.
I get asked this all the time. I kept bees in traditional Langstroth boxes for 5 years. Then I switched to these hives. I don’t have sensor data, but I have my personal experience with my own eyes and ears with 12 colonies of bees in the same location and the difference in hive strength is huge. I’m not a scientist and not publishing papers and not trying to convince anyone to buy anything. I’m just making videos reporting what I see in my backyard. I’m never going back to un-insulated hives. I just can’t do that to the bees.
No more out door feeding👏👏👏👏👏👏😀...good look👍
What kind of bees are those? Thanks for sharing
Please share your thoughts on a fix for the mold issue. I'm starting my very first hives this spring. I'm in upstate NY and I know you're hives work because I've been following you. It's your experience and skills and most of all COMMON SENSE APPROACH.
The fix is to prevent condensation from forming on the inner cover. Where the bees were able to keep the inner cover warm, no condensation formed. The goal is to make it so they can heat the whole thing… MORE insulation. NO thermal bridges.
With such deep (tall) frames... how do you apply miticide like Apivar strips - or MAQS? EDIT: Never mind - found the earlier video..
No MAQS. I don’t use it. Apivar is shown here at 6min 25sec: ua-cam.com/video/ctq3C38L-FQ/v-deo.html
2/25 Very jealous. We have snow and freezing for a while. Not many opportunity's for bees to do cleansing flights. Looks nice in the video.
This was the temperature for about an hour. We got 8” of snow today.
Oh no, I already started building. Quick quick with the update ;) no just kidding, this will need only minor adjustments. Are your big frames solid enough?
The large frames are the strongest and stiffest wooden frames I’ve ever seen. The key is the corner gussets.
Great video, we are all always learning.
I swear those bees are in their hive thinking, "If that Mo-Fu opens this Fu-in Box in Winter ONE MORE TIME, we are going for his balls!"
It was warmer outdoors than it was in the hives.
I hope ur right but I disagree. I believe your moisture is coming from inside. Breathe into a plastic bag for 1 minute. You’ll find moisture,
Breathing expels air. Thanks for the videos
Yes. Thats what I’m saying. The moisture IS inside. The cold is coming from the outside. The moisture in the air (inside the hive) is condensing on the surfaces that are being cooled from the thermal bridge (the wood exposed to the outside air.)
I understand about moist air hitting cold surfaces and condensing and your plan to keep moisture away from cold inner surfaces by not having any. What I don't really get though is your theory that the bees will handle (or accept) the humidity without having ventilation (other than the reduced lower entrance). In summer they would have this ventilation route available. I am afraid of trusting that you can ever have enough insulation that moisture is not going to hit a cold surface and condense eventually without ventilation. Having said that your results are impressive so far.
I used your modified folding cover method 2 winters ago (4 sides) with vivaldi board and it was a huge success.
This winter though I lost 2/3 of my hives and I think it WAS due to moisture (lots of uncapped honey from late fall flows and very very cold (-35C) temperatures). In Ontario, average losses this winter was over 50%.
Trees don’t have upper ventilation. Feral colonies living in the wall cavities of houses don’t have upper ventilation. When I give the bees upper ventilation, they propolize it shut. A single lower entrance to a all they need. 12/12 colonies survived last winter with a badly designed inner cover and an abundance of water dripping from the ceiling. The bees will not “live with” excess humidity, they will manage it. They know what they want and they manage the temps and humidity. The goal is to give them a sealed, insulated space for them to manage… No wild temp swings, drafts or chimney effects to worry about. Just stable air that they can move how they see fit.
Losing ~all of your beehives one year has to be one of the worst feelings. But coming back the next year with ~100% survival has to be one of the best feelings. Congrats.
Yup! Thanks.
I think that bee- barn is way to complicated .Keep the things simple. Here in Germany, i keep my bees in simple wooden hives for years. We had 2 really cold winters ( -10 to -15°C) and all of my bees survived it without any insulation. The bees dont keep the heat in the whole hive, just in the inner of the cluster.
They don’t heat the whole hive because an un-insulated hive box bleeds off all the heat they produce. In a well-insulated box or a thick tree cavity, the heat they produce will certainly heat the whole space.
If you went to a clear plastic inner cover, you would eliminate the spot where the cold is causing condensation. I use a clear plastic cut to box size about the thickness of a gallon milk container, I don't know what mil but maybe 25 mil? I've also seen people using 1/16th inch plexiglass which would allow the holes and grids to be used like you currently have. My plastic thickness is too flexible but I never get mold growing between it and the foam insulation. Nothing for the mold to eat like the wet wood does. And, it's so non invasive to just lift the outer cover and see the bees without smoke or them flying, getting chilled, whatever. Keep exploring, there's better hive solutions than 3/4 inch hive going through winter forcing the bees to burn honey like anyone in an uninsulated house would.
Yeah, don’t tell anyone, but I’ve been planning clear plexiglass inner covers for the past year. Stay tuned.