Hunt Couplings on Trial at Chadwick Model Railway | 156.
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Hunt Couplings on Trial at Chadwick Model Railway. Are they as good as some folks make out?
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On further investigation of the "Back to Backs" on the Dogfish, measured with a vernier caliper, they all measure around 14.1mm. Hopefully this is the derailing issue.
What are the "Back to Backs on yours?
Only have one 00 gauge wagon and it has boogies. Measure 14.3 and 14.4 between inner flanges.
Like you I run on code 100 rail and use a 14.4 Markits back to back gauge to check things. I do have a 14.5 one but found on some older stock that extra .1mm caused problems, you’d never have thought.
Charlie, I use the NMRA HO gauge to check wheelsets. This uses 14.55mm back to back. Anything down to 14.37mm or up to 14.6mm will still pass.
Isn't the back to back misleading? Thicker flanges would give different results on the key value, which is rail to rail.
@@miketreehouse I'd say both yes and no to that question. You are right about thicker flanges which is why I use code 100 rail as it's not just the rail depth that is slightly bigger I believe the gap for the check rails is a bit more forgiving though I've not done a side by side comparison to confirm this. That is where the back to back is important as if it's too narrow then the wheels will ride up on the check rails and inner parts of the frog on points.
They are as non realistic as all the hook and bar types. Stay with KaDee.
Sorry Geoff but the NEM pockets will not allow consistent alignment.
Regards Charlie.
KaDee representing janney couplers (and similar couplers) would be non realisic on those dogfish wagons, too
as (if you look them up you will see) those mostly got "instanter three-link couplings",
only exception I seen so fare would be (guessing upgraded) ones which got "screw-tensioned two-link couplings",
but we clearly got to say those standart 00 gauge couplings that have been on the wagons not only have been ugly, they been error-prone.
Informative as always. However you forgot probably the most important part of getting the right coupling - reversing. It is relatively straightforward to pull wagons through a set of points reversing is a different matter and would have liked to see how the dogfish train coped with the reverse running through the points the same way as they failed with the original couplings. Am almost set on changing but would much like to know how they work in reverse.
I’ll sort that once I’ve sorted the back to backs Roger.
In my experience you can literally drive trains in reverse for whole circuits and shunt with thight pointwork on my steam fleet, it's called the train set test Dragon junction did it on camera!
Well Charlie....if the UK and most of Europe , got out of the 18th century , and moved to Auto / Knuckle couplers , you wouldn't have these issues..LOL! But seriously , I can't believe you still use ball and chain couplers...being the inventors of the railways and all that?? . Good luck with it all and if it fails , you can always go to O scale..LOL
Cheers Gregg.
History is a wonderful thing Gregg. Brits love to model it!
Bonkers!
@@ChadwickModelRailway That's true mate! Just about everything started in the UK...so much industrial history and I hope to come over and see it one day.
Gregg 🙂
Thanks once more for an informative video. As a long time (more than a year) user of Hunt couplings I thought it might help some of your subscribers if I added a few more observations. First the positive ones. They don't ever uncouple in normal use - and this includes hauling eight heavy Pullmans with lights up a long tightly curved 1 in 40 gradient. As your video shows at 22.20 they will, however, helpfully uncouple following an accident and often prevent further damage. Second, they self-align when recoupling on a curve, something that can be quite difficult with more traditional couplings. They also self-align vertically and avoid the problems all too frequent with vertical alignment mis-match on too much of my proprietary stock. The biggest (for me) disadvantage is that they form a fairly inflexible coupling which can itself cause derailments with longer wheelbase wagons (and this includes some loco tenders) on tighter curves including radius 3. Hunt have now introduced a jointed coupling to overcome this, but I have not yet been able to acquire any of these to try out. Finally, I should mention that Hunt is not the only supplier of magnetic couplings and I have had equal success with the alternatives. Keep up the good work. This is still the best forum on UA-cam.
An excellent comment Graham.
I have seen the swivel headed version but I have no experience of them.
I still believe in solid couplings between permanent coaching stock and Kadee’s for loco connections.
It’s still early days for me!
Regards Charlie.
I’m also experimenting with Hunt Couplings, I would however be interested in the details of the alternative magnetic couplings you refer too.
Thanks
@@terryrobinson7371 The other magnetic couplings I use are Chunk couplings from Porter House Models (IIRC). Ebay will find them.
@@terryrobinson7371 Another option is GL magnetic couplings - I had no idea these existed until I saw a video elsewhere which compared the original Hunt couplings (polarised) with them. Now that Hunts are non-polarised, IMHO they look a little bit better. I've been experimenting with these on old Triang/Hornby/Dublo stuff (using NEM pockets from The Rail Works): my old Dublo Deltic can cheerfully pull 13 various vintages of Triang/Hornby coaches around with little bother, despite some of them being quite poor on the rolling resistance. Most of my steam trains just sit there spinning their wheels with that train, though!
Those miserable droopy easily broken dovetail couplings. Whoever came up with that should be electrocuted immediately. Hornby dovetails don’t work in Bachmann dovetails. I hate them and they sometimes come on locomotives. What??? Thanks Charlie
You’re pushing on an open door Rob, we all hate them. Regards Charlie
Thanx for this Info Charlie. "A great Heads up moment..!"
I have tried using other Couplings ( From USA) but find them Expensive and fiddly.
These Couplings look like a Simple process to fit and Uncouple and at a Reasonable cost.
As I have always hated the Drop link couplings. They look so unrealistic..! They Work in most cases but just look Naff..!!
Will be seeking a Starter pack immediately. Australia can be a Little like the End of the World for new product. ( Probably because it almost is..! Well my bit anyway..!)
So Thanx for the heads up..!!
Cheers kim in Oz. 😎
Thanks Kim I’m so pleased that you found the video useful mate. Regards Charlie
I have noted your comments on couplings with interest..
But I did not spot any references to Roco/Fleischmann close couplings..
Maybe you did not want to mention foreign makes..
Anyway, I have a Swiss/Austrian layout..
The gap between the buffers is 0-1mm..on wagons..[straight line]
On corridor coaches the gap between the walkway connection is 0mm.. ..[straight line]
On curves the gap does increase…
I have no problems with the buffers interlocking on the wagons..
It’s a pity I do not know how to upload any photo’s on the U-Tube comments ?..
Although I can upload video’s..on U-Tube..
Anyway, just thought it was worth a comment..
Regards
Peter Clare
Thank you Peter, for an interesting comment. The reason I chose not to review those couplings, it’s quite simple, I don’t have any. Furthermore, they’re not that common on British outline rolling stock. Regards Charlie
I have a lot of older / original Hunt's couplings - very original idea and nicely executed.
Did you have any couplings 'pull out' of their sockets? I've glued in a few of my heavier / faster rakes - Bachmann 100-tonne bogie TEA and HST Mk.3 rakes for this reason.
Alan.
Not on this latest batch Alan but, yes in the past.
Hello Charlie, not on Hunts but "Back to back" .
DCC have just emailed me advertising their now in stock, "Brass back-to-back gauge for Standard OO and HO ready to run, plus models built using BRSMB wheel standards OR running on pointwork built using OO-SF standards for common crossing and related gauging.. Click to view other sizes in our back to back gauge range."
together with a picture of a vernier caliper gauge measuring the external accuracy of their 14.5mm gauge, but I see that the vernier has two other calipers for measuring internal sizes of pipes etc. Can these not confirm the wheel width if there are running issues? Can't wait for Friday, thank you
Roger
Yes I’ve had that email too.
I do use the internal measuring for back to back. I like to see what is out of gauge. Here’s to Friday. 🤞
Hi charlie thanks to you i am a fan hunts couplings,and inox.I have used buckeye style less magnet showing,on my coach stock with klinetic? couplings fantastic.As for inox after treatment all my sounded locos operate with no breaks in sound, previous use of a ROCCO cleaning wagon now redundant.PS hst gaps on gangways i have found FAIR PRICE MODELS that do gangway bellows worth a try 4.20 english pounds for 10 cheap as chips thanks again for videos
Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that the couplings have brought you success. Regards Charlie
We need to get you a new metal ruler with mm on top with lines that stick out further so you can more easily read 1,2,3,4,5 mm, sort of like Imperial with the tallest mark is 1/2", and the next shortest are 1/4" and 3/4" and the the next shortest are 1/8" and so on so you don't have to get your magnifying glasses out to read the scale. (cm on the bottom.) I'm in the USA but mm and cm are the best and easiest to use both in wood and with body tissue and bones (yes, I work in an Operating room)
Are you marking one end or both ends of the carts/wagons with a "+" & "-" or "N" & "S" so you can see whether the ends of your carts/wagons will repel or not? Or did I miss that?
It’s not quite N and S. it’s just a case of having the coupling up the right way.
Regards Charlie
Vertical slop is a factor in the Heljan wagons....there is an rather disturbing droop...I have noticed this on other makes...Hornby as well. Just can't bin them can you ?
It just makes it so hard to shunt with reliability Philip.
Droopy KD couplings are a nightmare. Regards Charlie
Dear Charlie I'm 73 and struggling with changing loco address with a digitrax DT 400. Can you pleas help?
Hi Tony, I’m currently away from home. Perhaps if you ask again in 10 days I’ll be home and able help you. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I have a problem that I hope you can help me with. I have a analogue layout. What I would like to know is, can I wire a Hornby 8014 point motor and a Peco PL10 point motor in tandem so that both points change together using 1 switch. Regards David
I really don’t know but I’d be surprised if it didn’t work David.
Great video as usual. Are you modelling pre or post TOPS? The Bachmann looks like it has a TOPS ID, but can’t quite make out what the Heljan are?
Yes Mark, pre TOPs is my era. However, some rolling stock will have to be backdated. Regards Charlie
awsome vid as always. You should try do the coupling on N gauge .. its sooo much more fun ! .. Most of mine are the default ones, however, i have diversed into Kato and Tomix stock from Japan. They are far cheaper than paying 300 pounds for a uk locos etc and run sooo well!!. The link they use is not so harsh as the default Rapido couplings . Dapol do magnetic ones, like yours , but at N , unless you are a crazy rivet bod, it won't make much difference , to me anyway .. and to be honest , I have bullet trains and class 22s .etc . so i am not ones of these people ..
A great comment David. Many thanks, Charlie
First ever comment! How easy is uncoupling Hunt couplings. You mention buffer lock and derailments but what about uncoupling? Are we back to ‘Hand of God’ or are there more subtle means? Are these couplings better for fixed rakes as I think you had something else for loco to first truck or at least a bigger gap. Must visit West Camel - its my nearest club, as it turns out.
Hi GH, yes these couplings are more suitable for fixed rakes or rolling stock which is forever being taken on an off of a layout. For shunting operations I would always go for KD couplings. Regards Charlie
Good morning from the states Charlie, how are you doing today sir? As an American HO scale modeler, could you tell me what first through third radius equates to in degrees? From you mentioning the inner curve on your helix, I assume third radius is tighter than first? Would that be equal to 18 degrees by chance? All of our curved track are marked in degrees. Thank you for your assistance with this. Have a wonderful day.
Hi David, here in the UK with set curves, the first second third and fourth radius gets bigger with a larger number. So the fourth radius is the biggest.
The radiuses are 14 5/8, 17 1/4, 19 7/8 and 22 1/2. All in inches.
Wheel cleaning... oh gods wheel cleaning..
my stock is N gauge, mostly Lima from the 1980s, some Farish of a similar age.
cleaning when it was bought second hand was cotton buds and IPA, and some music, and teas as it took ages but made a huge difference. coaches got the same treatment, have found anything with an electrical pickup or resistor for block detection gets dirty, unpowered stuff less so with metal wheels.
plastic wheels are the worst by far, not got a reliable method of cleaning them yet
That’s very interesting Dale. I shall check out my resistored (if that’s a real word) stock. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Thanks for informative videos. A subject you may not have covered. How do you get your wife to agree to turning a spare bedroom in to a room for model railway?
Tread very carefully, a happy wife is a happy life! Regards Charlie
Would that make those couplings about 25 or 30 US dollars before tax, shipping and duties?
Sounds about right Paul.
Hi Charlie,
They look fine but they don’t appear to fill your criteria for couplings, in so much as shunting. They’re permanent magnets so they won’t uncouple unless you pull them apart. I can see them being useful for fixed rakes with a Kadee at both ends.
Cheers
John
Yes John, that’s exactly my intention with the Hunt Couplings. My rakes which needs breaking up, will always use KD couplings. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie I did make a comment on your excellent video a few days ago. I am trying to find a supplier of very fine plyers such as yours but with no luck. Can you point me in the right direction please..
I’d try squirestools.com.
There web site is not fantastic but they are very receptive to a phone call. Regards Charlie.
unrelated to video, more a question, I recently purchased a coupler 2ndhand life like locos, they have rubber traction wheels, I currently looking to convert to dcc & replacing traction wheels with metal traction wheels, would you think this a good move to save some coin or not worth the effort?
That depends on how much you like them Alf, and also how much you paid for them. Only you can decide mate, regards Charlie
Just seen this, literally the day after I’ve bought a rake of 13 Heljan Dogfish second hand 😂 Guess I’ll be changing the couplers
Do let me know how you get on with the brass wheels. Regards Charlie
Tried to get some Hunt couplings off their site, but sorry to say it's a nightmare! One of the worst IMHO!
I know what you mean Steve, and I’ve mentioned this to Chris Hunt. There seems to be no logic in the numbering system. However, they are still great products!
Regards Charlie
What happened to the Kadees? You mentioned shunt, how do you shunt with Hunt couplings? Think I will give them a miss
Hi Sam, no I meant if you need to do shunting operations I would stay with KD couplings. Regards Charlie
Excellent video thanks Charlie.
I had decided to go full Kadee and have started to retrofit all locos and wagons and passenger cars with them, with the idea that I would install neodymium magnets railside for hands free uncoupling.
My goal is to run the layout operationally with a car card system which obviouosly involves a lot of switching, and uncoupling.
I like the idea of the Hunt offerings but how do you think they would go on an operational railway where there is a lot of uncoupling?
Have you found a good way for this? How hard is it to uncouple the cars realistically?
Thanks,
Rick
Hi Rick,
No, my magnetic couplings are used in fixed rakes. If uncoupling is required then I use Kadee’s.
Regards Charlie
Just a small point. Your class 22 was showing a red light on the back of the loco. It shouldn`t be.
Yes I know Bryan but I forgot to turn it off during this test. Regards Charlie
Is there a reason why UK modellers don’t just use Kadee’s for all couplers? Is it to do with prototypical aesthetics?
No Mikey, it’s to do with the height of the NEM pockets that accept the KD couplers. Also, sadly many UK modellers are happy with the appalling couplings that we have!
I just want to add a comment, because I really enjoy watching your videos. I don't enjoy the Makinly videos as much because there is tomuch about digital CVs which dont intrst me at all.
I’m so pleased you enjoy my channel Andrew, regards Charlie
Hunt Couplings. What would Dr Spooner made of those, one wonders.
Now now, play nicely.
Very interesting video Charlie. Any replacement coupling appears to be an improvement on the tension lock type. The magnet types are simple enough but they don’t really look very realistic. The kadee’ s look very realistic but from your previous video, they look a bit fiddly to fit correctly. The ability to perform an ‘uncouple shuffle’ is a big plus for the kadee’s. It’s astonishing really that the big manufacturers will sell a DCC loco for hundreds of pounds, and then fit ridiculous tension lock couplings. When I get the time I’m going to experiment with all the coupling types you have shown. I do hope that when your Accurascale class 31 arrives, you will make a review video on it? I’m a big fan of the Accurascale stuff, and I have also ordered a class 31. I bought some Accurascale wagons last year and the detail was outstanding. Hopefully the class 31 will be equally impressive.
Hi William, many thanks for your comment.
Besides the class 31, I’ve also ordered the class 37 which should be out this autumn.
The couplings issue will go on and on but hopefully from the train to the locomotive the Kadee’s will always work. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes, I have a class 37 on order too. And I couldn’t resist their deltic s, so I’ve got that on order too. Been waiting 2 years for the deltic but it’s finally due for delivery any day and I can’t wait. Will just have to hide all these from the Mrs when the postie delivers!
Hi Charlie, just wondering if there is any reason that's stopping you form doing more work on the rest of the layout, possibly getting the remaining boards in place or even completing the branch line station and scenic stuff. Don't get me wrong, I'm loving the content, but just wondered why progress on the layout has stopped?
Hi Malcom, I certainly would not dare speak for Charlie but....as I have learned with my own channel, you are constantly producing videos that you hope are relevant and of interest, often based on feedback from your most recent videos. I tend to dart from one thing to another. At times, that comes with a sacrifice to working on my own layout and making videos about it.
The board construction goes on in the background Malcom. The next video will certainly bring you up to date.
Cleaning coach and wagon wheels? If I could afford it I'd buy the Lux wheel cleaning system.
There will be one in the next video mate. Regards Charlie
How do they uncoupled and shunt correctly. A quick backwards push for Tension locks over a ramp and for kadees over a magnet for example. Kadees can then be pushed back further without coupling (sometimes) while tension locks will recouple instantly. So how do these Hunt style work?
Sadly, Rich, they require the hand of God. There is no uncoupling method for these. However, for getting stock on and off the layout it is much simpler and they do couple closer. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway thanks Charlie, I saw in later comments you intend to keep them in rakes, so this makes for a perfect solution. With all kadees on short wheelbase UK style stock it is almost impossible to stop anywhere over a magnet without something uncoupling. Your videos are excellent too, thanks for the loads of well presented good information.
Darrenbury Central Hi very imformative and enjoyable show i learned a lot.
Thanks Darren, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful.
Hi Charlie,
Have you found a way of fitting them to the Freightliner wagons,
I haven’t looked Mick, but I don’t imagine it will be easy. Regards Charlie
What are the options for shunting? or is it like L gauge magnet couplers where you have to use the had of god to split cars?
Yes, shunting is not achievable with these couplings. Thanks Charlie
What happens when the magnet lose there magnetism? Just thinking about motor magnets that require remagnetising at times.
It hasn’t happened yet Basil, but I shall certainly let folks know if it does.
Regards Charlie
My only issue with them compared to kadees is actually uncoupling them if you need to break up a rake. They are so strong they literally pull the nem clip out of the socket instead of decoupling at the magnet.. great for fixed rakes but the ease you can break up kadee rakes in the fiddle yard wins for me
An interesting observation mate, regards Charlie
Well, I never have seen those original couplings, but my first thought was: "Why isn't he just shortening the original ones?" Do they need to reach down that far until they meet the rails? I would have tried, if possible, with a file or a clipper to cut a little bit off.
Maybe some will say that is an absolute no-go. Then maybe you let me know why.
The droopy couplings derail when shunted. They rise up over each other.
That's what I was thinking.
Clipping them short would be better as filing would tend to move the whole coupling around and possibly break it.
The tab hanging down only has to be as long as the hook to allow it to clear the other coupling bar.
Hi Charlie well I do have to say that I absolutely love Hunt Couplers. Like you I have had to use different lengths but overall I am very pleased with them . They can also be used on old Bachman parcel vans where there is no NEM pocket only the original Mainline pip at either side and a retaining screw. I do however compromise with the loco's as I do like KD's attached to the loco and lead vehicle purely for coupling/uncoupling purposes Superb Video Charlie always helpful and informative.
Thanks Dennis, we’re clearly singing from the same song sheet. Regards Charlie
I bought a pack of Hunt Couplings to be fitted to old style wagon couplings (Bachmamn bulk grain). Sadly it turned out to be a disaster as the train kept derailing as the couplings were too rigid. Looks like the new pivoting Hunt Couplings would be the solution, but in the meantime I've refitted the old tension lock ones!
Gosh, a real step backwards there John.
I clean my wheels with Inox and cloth,cotton buds with the Inox.
Thanks Mustang, yes good choices.
Hi Charlie, they look very useful, and here’s the but. How do you replace the original Hornby/Triang couplings which don’t have NEM pockets?
Still very helpful.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy, if you check out the Hunt Couplings website, you will find they do make a magnetic couplings which screws into where the old Hornby coupling used to sit. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie
I have a technical question, if you may know the answers. Why do the European railroads use bumpers. The Americans, Canadians and Mexicans railroads don't without any problems.
Hi Christian, Today’s rolling stock generally speaking doesn’t have them but most of us Model previous years such as the change over from steam to diesel. In those days everything have Buffers attached. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank for the feed back. Love your channel, You are doing great. I have being following you for several years now.
Are you not doing any layout updates anymore like scenery on your layout?
No Daniel, sadly the scenery won’t be restarted until the tracklaying is finished. Regards Charlie
There will be a lot of interesting comments about using feet/inches :-)
No sorry, yours is the first!
can you buy NEM sockets as a separate item. Most of my rolling stock and locos date back to the 50's 60's and 70's when such things did not exist. Thanks
Yes, Kelvin, the NEM sockets are available from various eBay sellers.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie. That's next winters job me thinks.
Very interesting, something I probably wouldn’t have thought about. My iPad is going wrong and the picture is misted. The vid of your train running around looked like running through early morning mist. I need a new iPad...
I sometimes feel that early morning mist Martyn, is blowing through my mind! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway You're doing just great Charlie. Your videos are always interesting. I don't have a layout myself so yours is making up for it.
Can you uncouple the magnetic couoplings automatickly as you can the Kadee couplings? If you can't, they are not of interest, I think. I don't want to have to use my hands to uncouple.
Sorry mate but no you can’t. Where I need to do uncoupling I will use KD types. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ok, thank you.
Great video and so I ordered a starter pack of Hunt couplings to see how they were. They are excellent. The problem I had was a mismatch of height between couplings on various wagons which is exacerbated by the start of a slope and a join in the boards. This causes some Kadees to decouple. The Hunt couplings cope with movement in a vertical plane without any problem at all. Thanks.
Yes I found that to Charles, the Hunt Couplings are much more forgiving on vertical curves. Regards Charlie
Charlie
I have enjoyed all your videos I have a device that I would love to share with you . It is for cleaning track with ipa .
I can only send it to you via email as there is a little badly shot video to show it in operation and a couple of pictures. I have only limited experience regarding sending stuff via you tube but good with email or you can always send a link I could post pics and videos in
Keep up the good work
Hi Giovanni, you could send it to my email address which is
chadwickmodelrailway @ gmail. com
Sent today
All good if you are using large prebuilt rakes like you, but what if you want to be a little more realistic and do a bit of shunting, can they be remotely uncoupled [magic of opposite polarity?] or is it down to the hand of god? Would not want to be in your shoes when the missus sees this and her nail file makes an appearance!
You’re dead right Robyn, my choice is KD couplings for all shunting operations. You only have to hope that you don’t have sagging NEM pockets. Regards Charlie
It just goes to show how versatile modelers are when it comes to using the right tools. It is also important to test couplings as well as clean the wheels on rolling stock. Is certain rolling more prone to carbon build up than other rolling stock?
I was sold up to the word “fettling”!
Had you never heard of fettling? It's just making minor adjustments.
Thanks for a great video Charlie - My first use of Hunt couplings was on my HST sets and was delighted when sets ran equally well in each direction even up and down my helixes.
I am now replacing all my tension lock and Kadee couplings with Hunt couplings and all stock so far completed have run perfectly in either direction.
That’s great news, regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, great video as usual. Looking at the shunting situation as things stand with Hunt at the moment (roll on the uncoupling version), what would you recommend for locomotive and first and last outer wagon couplings to enable hands free diesel run rounds?
Brian
Essex Thameside in N
Most certainly Kadee’s Brian. There really is nothing better on the market.
Regards Charlie.
Thank you again Charlie, very good and informative, as always. Getting the right couplings is a huge subject and so important. Chucking triang horrors is important of course, but it is an expensive exercise changing them all, so any information on the various alternatives is very useful. Easy to fit is one part, close coupling is great, but performance in both directions is vital, in order to cope with all aspects of running, like push-pull trains, top and tail, shunting and uncoupling. Finding which suits your own requirements is a minefield.
I couldn’t agree more Brian. We are extremely poorly served by the manufacturing community. Regards Charlie
Great result Charlie
Thanks for all the info very informative
Nick Australia
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Nick.
As someone who is returning to the hobby I find this kind of video very helpful. I've not had a "train set" for over 30 years and things have moved on a bit shall we say.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting AN. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, do these work out cheaper than using Kadee's?
I think they’re slightly cheaper but it is a close thing. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I had a feeling that maybe the case. My qaundry is, Im struggling to see the advantage of using these before Kadee's. One thing that is obvious with these, you lose that pivotal movement about the head of the coupling that you get with a buckeye/ knuckle type coulper, I suspect this is whats causing the derialing issue over reverse curves and crossover point work as it makes the consist more 'rigid' as you only have that slight movement available where the pocket is attached to the wagon. You also ofcourse have the advantage of remote uncoupling with a Kadee, if ofcourse that's important (shunting etc). Its also horses for courses though. Cheers, Gary.
And another thing……
Wheel cleaning - I use cotton buds and IPA (not the beer 🤣) to clean wheels. I also use the Tidy Track Roto wheel cleaner for locomotives. The problem with the Tidy Track Roto cleaner of course is that it’s only useful for powered wheels. I’m looking forward to seeing your discussion on cleaning wheels of coaches, wagons and non driving loco wheels because I have loads and don’t want to spend the rest of my life cleaning them !
Brass wheels? I replace them with steel.
Just need to find suitable substitutes Bob.
Another fine video, Charlie. As Kadee's are expensive why doesn't someone manufacture "N" style knuckle couplings for "OO" with NEM pocket fittings? I ran "N" for years & also had old Dublo & PECO ANITA knuckle couplers for "OO". No problems & simple auto uncoupling. It was when Tri-ang took over Dublo they opted to use tension lock as standard. Maybe Mr. Hunt might oblige? ;-)
I think you summed up the situation quite well Pat, couplings are simply dreadful. Regards Charlie
have you had any luck with uncouplers on these couplings?
No, not at all Luke. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway ah thanks for the reply, recently got back into the hobby and stumbled across your channel, im limited on space so looking to do a shunting layout that will eventually form a module of a larger project, but new to all this proper layout building, loved the kaadee video, maybe that’s the way to go for such a project
spent many a year with two display/ exhibition layouts R & M Quarries and Linfit West, everything was Kaydee couplers, mostly body mounted, apart from some Bachmann 37 and 08, where the socket was at the correct height... never had any problems, AND unlike these magnetic / Tomy Trains thingys, I could shunt , couple and uncouple. as they say, Change My Mind....
But sadly Richard that’s not quite the whole story. In a previous comment a gentleman thought the magnetic couplings are ideal because his autistic son could use them much easier. His boy had trouble with tension lock couplings and I see his point. It’s horses for courses mate. Regards Charlie
Lucky that you had your nail file laying around…I mean…lucky that you found MARGARET’s nail file lying around 😜 Yeah those couplings are great. Like I said last time around, I got some last year to use on some wagons which I bought cheap precisely because they were ‘used condition’ and many of the couplings were either broken or flimsy. I only bought ten pairs but will certainly look to get more I think, especially for fixed rakes of carriages. However, since I have suspended railway activities until we move, that will just have to wait for another day! 😄
I must say though that the system works well precisely because it is so wonderfully simple. And of course, as you showed, it is flexible. I also loved that in my experiments I was able to run a J72 back wards with 8 wagons on and once I had sorted out some wheel issues, it continued for about 10 minutes around my glorified test track in the garden (which has minimum third radius) without any further derailment! 😎
I was due to go to Ally Pally but couldn’t in the end due to work. A case of the big railway having to take priority over the little one you might say 🙄 But I shall most definitely be taking a good gander at his stall when I next go to a big show 🤔
Hope you manage to sort out the yips on those pesky wagons. Those Seacows really enhance that rake by the way. Once the wagons stop leaping off the track it will look great 😉
Cheers Charlie 👍🍀🍻
A great comment Tim and much appreciated. Regards Charlie
Hi there Charlie, another interesting TY clip, thank you as usual. You asked for comment on cleaning wheels so here's my penny's worth. I model in US and DB N, US O, NZR 9mm/ft (1:33.86 running on Peco O scale track) and dabble in US HO with a loco and 8 cars (the latter as part of a number of operating groups). The US O and 9mm trains are run on a 50x20ft modular exhibition layout where clean wheels and track are critical to keeping the public entertained for 12 hours over two days. I've replaced all the wheels across all my locos and rolling stock (in all scales) with plated wheels which has significantly reduced the need to clean them. As for cleaning them when required its just hard graft with a knife blade to scrape any heavy build up and alcohol with cotton buds to finish off and for lighter "dirt".
Thanks Brent, for an excellent comment. Regards Charlie
have you got any class 56 Charlie
No, sorry Anthony I haven’t. Regards Charlie
My pal and I spent the Saturday at Ally Pally, and now we both have Covid. There must have been a B.O.G.O.F. offer that we inadvertently signed up to! I'm feeling a bit rough, but as the family are keeping their distance from me I'm hoping to construct a kit or two. It's an ill wind etc etc
You poor chap Davil, on our coach of 29, we seem to have gotten away with it!. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
I may have missed it in your great video but what size of Hunt couplings did you finally settle on for the Heljan Dogfish? Was it the Elite Close 9.5 mm on one wagon and an Intermediate 11.7 mm on the adjoining one? Were they ok on the 1st and 2nd radius curves as per your demo with the Bachmann 16 tonners?
Hi David,
So sorry for the delay but I had to located my 1st Radius Curves. Yes the Elite 9.5 coulping will work on the Dogfish around those very tight curves.
Regards Charlie
I know it pushes up the price points but i am a big fan of rolling stock with sprung buffers that allow buffer contact coupling.
The Hornby Sealions & Seacow wagons came with said sprung buffers.
I do understand your point of view. However, it does help to push the price up, which doesn’t suit younger modellers trying to break into the hobby. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, Another informative video. One of our club members uses hunt couplings and he also had the issues you mentioned until he found the correct length for each type of wagon or coach. These Heljan wagons you have are really poor runners, you must be very disappointing with them considering the price these days. I was at Alexandra Palace with our club layout for the weekend but didn't spot you on Sunday. Did you get the chance to view all the layouts? Regards, David.
Hi David yes I did get to see all the layouts, but I always run out of time sadly. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Excellent as always.
Until your presentations on couplings I honestly thought I was the only inexperienced dumbo that couldn't get it right
So good you share this sort of information.
Do the hunt nems have problems with all nem sockets?
Thanks again
Howard
Hi Howard, yes the Hunt Couplings do have some issues with NEM sockets. Reading previous comments, some people had to glue them in, whereas I had to file them down! Regards Charlie
Dogfish ? A dogfish is a shark.
But only a tiddler !
A very informative video Charlie, thank you. So completely unrelated, every time I see you with your Dremel, I get scared. Just to let you know, in Lidl there is a Parkside equivalent, that is battery powered and with a variable speed control at 19.99 I think. Two other things, I am surprised you are running with code 100, I'd always imagined you would have opted for code 75, but so what if you are. Your railway, your choice. And finally, I am not getting Patreon notifications, I don't know if that is the case for your other subscribers, but I'm also not getting notifications from some others too, so maybe it is a problem with my account.
Hi Jane, I think that the problem is at your end. You should definitely receive my notification on the Thursday, prior to the Friday release. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
Even though you are younger than me, it seems like you are my big brother with useful things and neat tips and tricks. You are about two years ahead of me - I only started in November. I am still running DC (on four 8'X4' baseboards), waiting for my DCC controller (an ECoS) before I expand by adding two more 8X4's. When I do, I'll be viewing some of your previous DCC videos.
Re the Hunt Couplings. I looked for a remote uncoupler but couldn't find anything. Any thoughts?
You asked about cleaning wheels. I use the Woodland Scenics Roto Wheel Cleaner (model number TT4561). I picked one up from Woodland Scenics for $28.99 (I live in the US). It works for locos as well as rolling stock. It works for me - 10 seconds per loco!
Hi Don, thanks for the tip. I’ve checked it out and yes it does clean loco wheels but I’m a little curious on the cleaning of rolling stock as it’s not an abrasive mechanism.
useful information Charlie. I use a 14.3mm spacing on my wheels and haven t had any derailing problems with code 100 track k
Thanks John, much appreciated. Regards Charlie
Well done Charlie more things made easy and ponder over ? I guess we all need like a fine screw adjustable magnet fitting from short to long 1 click 0.5 mm out or in to cover the full spec needed ? Im on it ! see you soon loved it as always mate ! John from Chichester..
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards Charlie
Well, you've sparked the debate on this one Charlie judging by the comments. I've been using Hunt Couplings on my N Scale fleet for some time now and they have been a great addition. The older ones that were polarity sensitive were a bit of a challenge and I have an HST set that still has to be put together in a specific way for them to work. But having now moved to the newer N scale buckeye couplings they look a lot better and are so much easier to work with. In N scale we don't have Heljan thankfully, so no Danish over-engineered fiddly bits to fettle. Good find on your Sea Lions' I was going to rudely comment the other week that you needed to get yourself a Mermaid or two but thought that might have been taken the wrong way 🙂
I’m so pleased that Hunt Couplings suit your N gauge layout Stuart. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie good one, i use hunt couplings and kadee too. Plus I hide things from my wife too...... Keep it up mate stay safe.
We sing from the same song sheet Phil. Regards Charlie.
Enjoyed your comments on Hunt couplings. Started off with the original design then moved over to the Elite type, dual polarity. All my stock which runs to over three hundred locos and hundreds of passenger and freight cars are all Hunt units. I spoke at length with Chris at the Glasgow show, as you can read by my comments, I have bought scores of his couplings.
I’m so pleased that you have a workable solution Kenneth, but blimey what an expense! Regards Charlie
Thank you for this vlog Charlie very helpful been having trouble with my couplings for years I let you know how I get on😂😂😂😂❤️❤️
Good luck Robert, regards Charlie
_"Margaret's Gone To Work"_ - Good, that's where Margaret belongs. Out the way, so Charles can get on with the more serious business of railway modelling. Margaret at the antique shop, seeing model railways : "Oh God, Not Another One"
An excellent comment, Margaret approves!
Thank Charlie. Your exposure of the leading manufacturers dreadful and long term approach to couplings is way overdue and is one that the hobbies written press could and should have remarked upon long ago. Viva Chadwick!!
Best wishes.
Rob
Thanks Rob, I’m so pleased that you found the comments interesting. I actually believe that the railway press are too intimidated to give honest reviews. Regards Charlie
Coupling droop can be quite a large source of running problems, aggravated when the manufacturer puts the NEM socket on a type of swing mount instead of attached to a bogie, each connection adds movement up and down which under it's own weight makes the coupling droop down. My Hornby class 60 was a prime example of this fixed by completely removing the pathetically engineered body mounted swing arm (which also used to jam make coupling impossible on anything other than a perfect straight, made shunting/propelling impossible round w bend or like your ballast train misbehave over points etc,etc) and making my own fixed mount to the coupling, tension lock in my case - sure you might not like the look but they work for me and I'm not about to change now!! - but if you keep the NEM socket you could use whatever else tickles you fancy. I'm guessing this would also help kadee fans? The hunt couplings probably aren't as bothered by coupling droop certainly pulling over pushing.
I always try to avoid buying stock with these mounts (and NEM pockets to a far lesser extent!!) As they're nothing but trouble, but becoming more and more prevalent, fortunately as they're also becoming increasingly expensive I can't really afford them anyway!
Great comment Phillip. I will crack the loco dilemma but it’s not an easy challenge.
Very informative. I saw these couplings at Model Rail Scotland and was intrigued. I use kadees at present but one of us from Aberdeen bought a tester pack to try them out. My principal question is "how far beyond the buffer head should the end of the coupling be". Kadees are simple in that the jaw should be in line with the buffer head (I think). Isn't there a similar 'rule' for these couplings? A standard around which you can play for particular wagons? And what about coaches? Lots here for you to examine and report on here, Charlie. Look forward to it.
Hi Kenneth, it’s early days but I’m going for 2mm beyond the buffers.
I'd had mixed results with magnetic couplings. On the face of it, they are fantastic and were great at connecting HO to 00, for example. However the plastics in 3D printers weren't brilliant and they sometimes pulled out of the NEM pockets. As time goes on, the quality of the plastics should improve, if it hasn't already (it is a couple of years since I bought some).
You are of course right, they are not without their minor drawbacks. Regards Charlie
Aahaa, the cunning plan is revealed!! A very informative video as always very enjoyable. I caught it whilst packing up some Hornby Dublo and some O gauge rails for my funicular railway. I would sign off wishing you good luck from Spain but today I wish you good luck from England as I am here to collect the aforementioned Hornby stuff .... Small matter of a wedding tomorrow .... Not mine though!!!!
Thanks David, and go easy on the booze tomorrow!
I hope Margaret doesn't watch your videos. She likely wouldn't be pleased that you used her file.
She’d forgive me, hopefully!
Hiya... excellent videos... Hunt couplings are okay if all you want to do is run fixed rakes of wagons, like in the modern eras, but if you want to do some shunting they don't seem to be any good as you will have to use the hand of god to uncouple the wagons or coaches or detach locos from stock, unless you do what someone has suggested in the comments on here and put alternative couplings between the loco and first piece of rolling stock.
Yes James, I totally agree.
KD couplings are always my go to option for shunting operations. Regards Charlie
surely it would be better for the customer to buy a single coupling of each length in a pack. These could be kept for checking new stock whenever they are bought.
PS. sorry for calling you Shirley.
I think that it seems to be a popular pack.
Perhaps only time will tell, regards Charlie
Yet another informative and enjoyable video Charlie. I hope you remembered to clean and replace Margaret's nail file before she returned home! I told my good lady that your latest video was about coupling. I cannot repeat what she said here! Cleaning our models, whatever they maybe, has become a bit of a focus for me, based on my last few adventures. Looking forward to the next one greatly as I have been asked many questions about how I go about cleaning. As always, stay safe mate.
Hi Roger, I hope all is well with you. Yes these couplings are a real so-and-so! Sadly my cleaning solution is far from inexpensive! Stay safe mate, regards Charlie
The plastic wheels seem to attract dirt, and it's important to get rid of that, I use kadees on my passenger stock, and as all my wagons are fixed rake, they are coupled with Smith's 3-link and screw link couplings, with all the fiddling involved if one wagon separates, thanks for the video, Charlie
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Michael. For my fixed rates of coaches I opt to use the Bachman loop type couplings. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I clean my wheels with a fibreglass pen, and cotton buds, alternating between the two, both soaked in clean electrical contact cleaner (I have an aerosol and I discharge a small amount at a time into a shallow glass jar, using a price of kitchen paper as a shield) to abrade and remove the dirt and muck. This is very effective but also quite time consuming, and I would be interested to know if there is a method that is as effective but less effortful.
I have looked at the various wheel cleaning gadgets that look like two strips of abrasive cloth layed out like track that you can soak in your cleaning agent of choice but never taken the plunge to buy one?
Thanks Nat, Hopefully I will be able to offer a couple of solutions on this front. Regards Charlie
If you are running a 'shunting' layout, am I correct in assuming that these Hunt couplings wouldn't be suitable as they can't be uncoupled other than by the 'hand of god?'
Yes that’s correct mate, regards Charlie
Charlie, Thank you for a very interesting and informative video.
In Oz, we tend to use the Kadee knuckle couplers, and yes sometimes you need to change lengths.
My apologies for the fat fingered reply to your facebook post about your find in the Antique Shop. The buttons on the phone are too small.
Cheers, and stay safe. Michael
I know the feeling Michael.
I often dictate replies to avoid fat finger errors!
Two packs ordered - thanks Charlie!