WELL AT 3:17. HE REMOVED THE WATER BREAK BUT WHEN HE REASSEMBLED THE WASHER HE FORGOT 🤫TO PUT THE WATER BREAK BACK IN THE MACHINE BESIDES THAT IT IS A OUTSTANDING VIDEO
A very good instructional video. Covered everything very well. Explained the seal switch on new kit versus old set up for top seals and bearing, reduced from three to two. see about 12:05. Also how to set in place with proper spacing, by measuring. Tough job to pound out old bearings / seals and insert new ones. Everything else explained well and with proper equipment goes easy.
Could you just replace the 2 upper seals instead of buying the whole bearing and seal kit if water is leaking down through. Ive got m# 11029852991 and i see that 356934 was substituted to WP8577376 is this bc the new kit? If i was just to try to replace the two top seals and not the bearing and lower seal or the other bearing and 2 seals would i just get 2 356934 seals instead of the other part number. I see other vids where they just replaced the one top seal and had no more leaks but i dont mind going down to the bearing in the tub like you did just confused which seals to get. I would think it wouldnt be the WP8577376 but 2 356934 or does it matter are they the same length or if i bought the kit or the WP seals would i have to install the way you did by putting the bearing a inch and a quarter below the tube? Im so confused i want to do a thorough job i just cant afford it and water and soap keep going imdown shaft into clutch area.
And one other question, why did they change the bearing kit to only have 1 seal a bearing and another seal since you pulled out 2 on the top and than knocked the other seal and bearing out is this bc they made it so the bearing went down to 1&1/4 inches from the top and and it was lowe before bc of the two seals? Im truly trying to figure this out and if i can just replace the top two and leave the bearing and seal underneath where they are... I know your job is more thorough but i just dont have much money and am trying to get away with as least as possible. Thanks hope to hear your response soon..
And Simon is it possible to take the 2 seals out near the brake drum without taking out bearings or do you have to knock them out through top by hitting bearing out? And do these bearings spin as the drive basket turns? It looks like they just non spin if so couldnt i get away with replacing them and the top 2 and leaving both bearings in and the seal thats under the bearing in the tub? Is this possible please help Simon or APPros thanks :)
What are the 2 clear plastic cups for underneath? Mine has a brass looking rod/bolt in each that look like a cotter pin should go through the top of it, but they aren't connected to anything, they just sit in the cup...Thanks
On my second day still trying to get bearings out. Got seals out. I’m about to leave the 2 bearings in the middle and just add the new ones. A bit frustrating. I’ve used the sand paper and lots of penetrating oil. Hit my thumb a few times also.
It can be difficult to remove those bearings, but you will not be able to install the new ones without removing the old parts. You can you some penetrating oil like rust buster and let it sit and soak in, hopefully that will help you get that out. Unfortunately, there isn't a trick to it, you will just need to keep working at it.
@@appliancepartspros thanks, great video by the way! Got them out. I think I messed something up putting in the new ones though. Well they went in ok but the outer shaft wouldn’t go in well. I kinda helped it with a hammer. I think I little too hard. Now it’s stuck. Really stuck.
@@appliancepartspros it’s a Maytag MVWC6ESWW1 . It seems like a nice machine I’ve spent some money fixing other things on it. Probably more than I should have. Taken it apart and put it together a few times. I think I’m about to give up on it though. I seem to get lucky fixing some things but I’m far from a repairman. My main problem ended up being that it would wash and agitate but wouldn’t spin. It drained but sat still. When it did spin it sounded like it was going to take off. St the same time the very center shaft was a bit wiggly at the transmission. It’s direct drive and not belt drive.
Thank you. If the shaft is loose or wiggles, then you would need to replace the transmission. That could also be the reason you had a hard time putting it back in when you replace the bearings.
Ditto, Very helpful video. Easy to follow. The suggested tools (1 1/8" socket for bearing removal and installation) priceless. One comment, re-installation of water fill device at center of back panel above tub was skipped.
These sleeve bearings deformed ever so slightly during install resulting in the drive tube binding up, doesn't take much. The basket drive should slide in there with little resistance and spin easily. I did the job again flipping the socket over and driving with the flat side, just feed the extension in through the cup to install. It's also mush easier to remove the plastic tub to do this. Have a new tub seal handy for that.
I replaced the bearings in my washer using this method and now the spin basket drive shaft is jammed and won’t go in…not sure what’s going on but I had to get a whole new spin tub assembly
Great video! Thank you. I was able to replace the bearing and seals no problem just was tougher to knock out then I suspected but once I knocked them inwards first and then outwards they started to move but not before a lot of WD40! Anyways I have a question. After the new seal and bearing installation the basket drive was a very snug going in the support tube and I had greased but now the basket does not get to the desired speed to strain the clothes adequately not to mention I bet its putting undue stress on tranny clutch and the motor! Before I installed the drive basket I did inspect seals and they were all nice an flush. The only thing is that the 2nd, 3rd and 4th seals that came out my Kenmore 110.27831600 topload washer were taller in height but the kit I got was the one recommended for this model. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated. One thing I thought of it to make the washer run with minimal load a few times to see if the basket drive loosens up in the support tube. thank you in advance
When you installed the Bearing and seal kit did you make sure that everything was installed correctly? If everything was installed correctly you may have an issue with the clutch assembly.
Literally 5 bolts, 6 clips, and some pulling and lifting to remove a few parts. Then you pull the seals, and bearings. Are you saying that's hard? The fact you have to take the shell off makes it way easier to work on. This is easy. I just did mine, and I have never worked on one before. Maybe you can go down to your local university, take some classes on how to hold a wrench, and hammer.
Use the same exact tools as him! IT was way easier to get the bearings out, once I got the same hammer and socket size. Getting the bearing in, however, they keep going crooked at the start
This guy is awesome. Very helpful video. Also, LOVED that he explained the new seal system! I was totally relieved when he explained that two of the wide upper seals are now replaced by ONE seal!
In my kit it wasn’t the same size. But luckily I accidentally ordered two seal kits and will put it together like original. On the top portion of my original unit it had one flat seal below the bearing and 2 tapered seals above the bearing. On the bottom portion it had 2 flat seals as shown in this video. But it seems like it’s not crucial to have three seals on top. I’m just doing it because I accidentally ordered extra and going for a perfect restoration. What I really want to know is what is that paper made out of underneath the engine. I have mine but it’s kind of in bad shape and want to make a new one. I imagine it’s a fire retardant paper to keep sparks from hitting flammable floors. Mine is a Kenmore. Awesome video though.
This golden pendulum the fell out and I have no idea where it came from anyone know what it is for its about2 inches long has a hole through it and is less thats 1/4 in wide it looks like a gold crystal and has a point on one end
yes, this happened to me too when I was hammering out the top bearing. It almost looks like a brass nail, about 2" long with a hole drilled in the shaft. No idea where this fell out of. (!)
I had a really hard time breaking the tub nut loose. had to spray some penetrating oil on the threads as well as up under the nut where it contacts the drive tube.
Well done video. About the only thing i would have done differently is to clean everything in the drum and tub area before I put it back together so it was as good as new when I was done.
Im a little confused on why the bottom you put bearing 1st with 2 seals after while on top you did it different, seal,bearing, seal. Is there a difference on why you did that?
Can you please tell me what the part number is on the grease you used on the seals? It's the stuff in the white tube at 14:51 on the video. I need to know what type of grease to use. Thanks so much for such a great instructional video.
🤣No Way! Original owner of mine. I almost went that route until I found out through a bunch of research how awesome and rugged these old beasts are. And I accidentally found that there are actually fun to work on. The guy at the Sears parts store said if I buy a new washer to sell him my old one. But to be honest in the process of rebuilding mine, I actually found on craigslist a Kenmore washer and dryer the same exact model as mine for $150. So I hooked it up. Now I can take my time rebuilding mine. Too much fun club!
like the others are saying. these old machines will outlive you with a few bucks worth of parts in repairs. theres a reason they dont build them like this any more. the manufacturer would go out of business!
if you have the transmission out, tap the drive block down with a hammer to loosen the basket. if the transmission is in, ive seen guys use a 3 leg gear puller on the center shaft and the spanner nut to pop it loose. i dont think its good to put all that force on the transmission main shaft tho.
in this video right at 13:10 there is a gray looking seal or gasket in view, right above of what you're doing. where is it suppose to be and what is it's purpose? Is it suppose to go between the triangle and the black round housing? please HELP ME!!!
Excellent video its exactly what i was looking for. Im wondering though will this method work on the Kenmore elite 80 series washer model# 110.20952994. I read that ypu need a special tool to get the bearings out of the tub support for the kenmore washers. Is this true and where do you get this tool?
@appliancepartspros thank you so much for getting back to me. Oh I was under the impression there was a special tool needed to get the bearings and seals out of the tub support metal shaft. I have the spanner nut tool and have the washer completely apart. I took the tub support completely out to look at the seals. The bottom seals and bearing look great the top seal looks great and the other seal under it is not bad but there is a gap between that seal and the top bearing. I'm thinking there was another seal there but its no longer there anymore. Would this be the cause of my washer leaking water down through the center into the crankshaft on top of the transmission and would this cause a high pitched whining sound during the spin cycle. Also can you just buy those seals that goes above the top bearing and the one that goes above it? @appliancepartspros
EXCELLENT video!! Professional, detailed, with just a touch of humor. No useless music or banter. To the point!
The best joke of all is where he says this is an easy repair
Yeah the best joke in this entire videos where he says "this isn't too bad of a repair"
WELL AT 3:17. HE REMOVED THE WATER BREAK BUT WHEN HE REASSEMBLED THE WASHER HE FORGOT 🤫TO PUT THE WATER BREAK BACK IN THE MACHINE BESIDES THAT IT IS A OUTSTANDING VIDEO
What kind of grease is used? I want to make sure I have/get the correct kind. Thanks.
This is so helpful, I pretty much watched and paused it while I did the work. Nothing unexpected happened so long as I I followed the directions!
Glad the video was able to hep you out. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Any reason that after installing the rotor, it seizes and will not spin. The gear shaft spins perfectly before the install.
A very good instructional video. Covered everything very well. Explained the seal switch on new kit versus old set up for top seals and bearing, reduced from three to two. see about 12:05. Also how to set in place with proper spacing, by measuring. Tough job to pound out old bearings / seals and insert new ones. Everything else explained well and with proper equipment goes easy.
Could you just replace the 2 upper seals instead of buying the whole bearing and seal kit if water is leaking down through. Ive got m# 11029852991 and i see that 356934 was substituted to WP8577376 is this bc the new kit? If i was just to try to replace the two top seals and not the bearing and lower seal or the other bearing and 2 seals would i just get 2 356934 seals instead of the other part number. I see other vids where they just replaced the one top seal and had no more leaks but i dont mind going down to the bearing in the tub like you did just confused which seals to get. I would think it wouldnt be the WP8577376 but 2 356934 or does it matter are they the same length or if i bought the kit or the WP seals would i have to install the way you did by putting the bearing a inch and a quarter below the tube? Im so confused i want to do a thorough job i just cant afford it and water and soap keep going imdown shaft into clutch area.
Thank you!!
And one other question, why did they change the bearing kit to only have 1 seal a bearing and another seal since you pulled out 2 on the top and than knocked the other seal and bearing out is this bc they made it so the bearing went down to 1&1/4 inches from the top and and it was lowe before bc of the two seals? Im truly trying to figure this out and if i can just replace the top two and leave the bearing and seal underneath where they are... I know your job is more thorough but i just dont have much money and am trying to get away with as least as possible. Thanks hope to hear your response soon..
And Simon is it possible to take the 2 seals out near the brake drum without taking out bearings or do you have to knock them out through top by hitting bearing out? And do these bearings spin as the drive basket turns? It looks like they just non spin if so couldnt i get away with replacing them and the top 2 and leaving both bearings in and the seal thats under the bearing in the tub? Is this possible please help Simon or APPros thanks :)
I wouldn't clean it out either.
What are the 2 clear plastic cups for underneath? Mine has a brass looking rod/bolt in each that look like a cotter pin should go through the top of it, but they aren't connected to anything, they just sit in the cup...Thanks
Those are pins that when the unit is moved shipped or whatever you use those pins to keep the skid plate aligned
On my second day still trying to get bearings out. Got seals out. I’m about to leave the 2 bearings in the middle and just add the new ones. A bit frustrating. I’ve used the sand paper and lots of penetrating oil. Hit my thumb a few times also.
It can be difficult to remove those bearings, but you will not be able to install the new ones without removing the old parts. You can you some penetrating oil like rust buster and let it sit and soak in, hopefully that will help you get that out. Unfortunately, there isn't a trick to it, you will just need to keep working at it.
@@appliancepartspros thanks, great video by the way! Got them out. I think I messed something up putting in the new ones though. Well they went in ok but the outer shaft wouldn’t go in well. I kinda helped it with a hammer. I think I little too hard. Now it’s stuck. Really stuck.
What is your model number?
@@appliancepartspros it’s a Maytag MVWC6ESWW1 . It seems like a nice machine I’ve spent some money fixing other things on it. Probably more than I should have. Taken it apart and put it together a few times. I think I’m about to give up on it though. I seem to get lucky fixing some things but I’m far from a repairman. My main problem ended up being that it would wash and agitate but wouldn’t spin. It drained but sat still. When it did spin it sounded like it was going to take off. St the same time the very center shaft was a bit wiggly at the transmission. It’s direct drive and not belt drive.
Thank you. If the shaft is loose or wiggles, then you would need to replace the transmission. That could also be the reason you had a hard time putting it back in when you replace the bearings.
Do yall answer questions here??
Thanks!!!!!!
Ditto, Very helpful video. Easy to follow. The suggested tools (1 1/8" socket for bearing removal and installation) priceless. One comment, re-installation of water fill device at center of back panel above tub was skipped.
Glad we were able to help you out. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
These sleeve bearings deformed ever so slightly during install resulting in the drive tube binding up, doesn't take much. The basket drive should slide in there with little resistance and spin easily. I did the job again flipping the socket over and driving with the flat side, just feed the extension in through the cup to install. It's also mush easier to remove the plastic tub to do this. Have a new tub seal handy for that.
I replaced the bearings in my washer using this method and now the spin basket drive shaft is jammed and won’t go in…not sure what’s going on but I had to get a whole new spin tub assembly
Great video! Thank you. I was able to replace the bearing and seals no problem just was tougher to knock out then I suspected but once I knocked them inwards first and then outwards they started to move but not before a lot of WD40! Anyways I have a question. After the new seal and bearing installation the basket drive was a very snug going in the support tube and I had greased but now the basket does not get to the desired speed to strain the clothes adequately not to mention I bet its putting undue stress on tranny clutch and the motor! Before I installed the drive basket I did inspect seals and they were all nice an flush. The only thing is that the 2nd, 3rd and 4th seals that came out my Kenmore 110.27831600 topload washer were taller in height but the kit I got was the one recommended for this model. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated. One thing I thought of it to make the washer run with minimal load a few times to see if the basket drive loosens up in the support tube. thank you in advance
When you installed the Bearing and seal kit did you make sure that everything was installed correctly? If everything was installed correctly you may have an issue with the clutch assembly.
11:50 "Relatively easy fix": Proceeds to strip machine down to the frame.
This is a big job. This guy is good 👍
Literally 5 bolts, 6 clips, and some pulling and lifting to remove a few parts. Then you pull the seals, and bearings. Are you saying that's hard? The fact you have to take the shell off makes it way easier to work on. This is easy. I just did mine, and I have never worked on one before. Maybe you can go down to your local university, take some classes on how to hold a wrench, and hammer.
Yeah this looks like the most complicated jobs you could possibly do on this other than maybe stripping down the transmission
Great instructional video Simon. I didn't see you reinstall the waterbrake though.
Use the same exact tools as him! IT was way easier to get the bearings out, once I got the same hammer and socket size.
Getting the bearing in, however, they keep going crooked at the start
Glad you were able to fix your issue! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
AAAAAAAAAHAAHHAHAHAHAHAHA '' TADDAHHHHH '' So Funny , I Like This Guy !
i work on appliances been doing 38 yrs its never ending. learn every day awesome vidio ty
You are very welcome. If we can help you with anything in the future please let us know.
This guy is awesome. Very helpful video. Also, LOVED that he explained the new seal system! I was totally relieved when he explained that two of the wide upper seals are now replaced by ONE seal!
This good old Simon! always happy to see him!
Glad our video was helpful!
Instablaster.
i always take the motor off the transmission before pulling it out... much easier in the long run
P.S. some of these bearings are a XXXXXX dont touch it if the customer let it leak for 3 yrs .
Thanks I had been looking for basically this exact video for a long time
Hi, as one youtuber asked, why do you pulled out 2 seals on top but only put one back in?
The new updated seal is 2 in one, basically is the same size but its only one.
In my kit it wasn’t the same size. But luckily I accidentally ordered two seal kits and will put it together like original. On the top portion of my original unit it had one flat seal below the bearing and 2 tapered seals above the bearing. On the bottom portion it had 2 flat seals as shown in this video. But it seems like it’s not crucial to have three seals on top. I’m just doing it because I accidentally ordered extra and going for a perfect restoration. What I really want to know is what is that paper made out of underneath the engine. I have mine but it’s kind of in bad shape and want to make a new one. I imagine it’s a fire retardant paper to keep sparks from hitting flammable floors. Mine is a Kenmore. Awesome video though.
This golden pendulum the fell out and I have no idea where it came from anyone know what it is for its about2 inches long has a hole through it and is less thats 1/4 in wide it looks like a gold crystal and has a point on one end
yes, this happened to me too when I was hammering out the top bearing. It almost looks like a brass nail, about 2" long with a hole drilled in the shaft. No idea where this fell out of. (!)
I got the same thing. And I don't know where it came from. Mine is Kitchenaid.
They are shipping pins. Not needed, just throw them out or ignore then
Hi. May i ask why turbine oil?
I myself would like to know. I always thought seals were supposed to be installed dry.
Hello sir I need some one seal kit
But what a process buying this
I had a really hard time breaking the tub nut loose. had to spray some penetrating oil on the threads as well as up under the nut where it contacts the drive tube.
Well done video. About the only thing i would have done differently is to clean everything in the drum and tub area before I put it back together so it was as good as new when I was done.
Great tip, thank you!
Im a little confused on why the bottom you put bearing 1st with 2 seals after while on top you did it different, seal,bearing, seal. Is there a difference on why you did that?
Because you want to get the bearings set in the correct place before putting in the seals
Can you please tell me what the part number is on the grease you used on the seals? It's the stuff in the white tube at 14:51 on the video. I need to know what type of grease to use. Thanks so much for such a great instructional video.
Try Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease (3 oz.)
You can get it at most auto parts stores like Advanced Auto.
Dielectric grease is safe for rubber.
Step #1, buy new washer.
🤣No Way! Original owner of mine. I almost went that route until I found out through a bunch of research how awesome and rugged these old beasts are. And I accidentally found that there are actually fun to work on. The guy at the Sears parts store said if I buy a new washer to sell him my old one. But to be honest in the process of rebuilding mine, I actually found on craigslist a Kenmore washer and dryer the same exact model as mine for $150. So I hooked it up. Now I can take my time rebuilding mine. Too much fun club!
Once you replace the bearings this old direct drive washer will out last 3 vertical modular chassis machines
like the others are saying. these old machines will outlive you with a few bucks worth of parts in repairs. theres a reason they dont build them like this any more. the manufacturer would go out of business!
Yeah that looks like a mess...
Any tricks to getting the tub loose to remove other than the tapping and rocking? mine is being VERY stubborn.
if you have the transmission out, tap the drive block down with a hammer to loosen the basket. if the transmission is in, ive seen guys use a 3 leg gear puller on the center shaft and the spanner nut to pop it loose. i dont think its good to put all that force on the transmission main shaft tho.
Thank you 🙏
Simon is the best
You forgot to remove the ground wire screw in the cabinet!
in this video right at 13:10 there is a gray looking seal or gasket in view, right above of what you're doing. where is it suppose to be and what is it's purpose? Is it suppose to go between the triangle and the black round housing? please HELP ME!!!
It’s a metal shield that clips to the frame. If there is a water leak it’ll miss the motor.
Excellent video its exactly what i was looking for. Im wondering though will this method work on the Kenmore elite 80 series washer model# 110.20952994. I read that ypu need a special tool to get the bearings out of the tub support for the kenmore washers. Is this true and where do you get this tool?
You would need spanner wrench, part number TB123B, for this repair. You can place the order through the website, or you can call us at 1-877-477-7278.
@appliancepartspros thank you so much for getting back to me. Oh I was under the impression there was a special tool needed to get the bearings and seals out of the tub support metal shaft. I have the spanner nut tool and have the washer completely apart. I took the tub support completely out to look at the seals. The bottom seals and bearing look great the top seal looks great and the other seal under it is not bad but there is a gap between that seal and the top bearing. I'm thinking there was another seal there but its no longer there anymore. Would this be the cause of my washer leaking water down through the center into the crankshaft on top of the transmission and would this cause a high pitched whining sound during the spin cycle. Also can you just buy those seals that goes above the top bearing and the one that goes above it? @appliancepartspros
The seal part number is w11095997.