Thanks for sharing, it is advisable to test the insulation with a proper Insulation Tester like this one Megger BM82/2 Multi Voltage Insulation Meter which subjects the insulation to 500v /1000v dc between the body and the live wires if it passes then you are safe to use otherwise it is dangerous to use.
"Ok, that actually worked. So did that. That's amazing." "And our motor is woking and I'm not dead!" My two favorite quotes. That was soooo funny because I've soooo been there. Great work! Thanks Wes!
Thanks very much for showing us the motor anatomy, but I think this is only HALF of the repair. What about the brushes? What about the wiring (springs) around the brushes? Did you clean the commutator? How? I am eager to see the FULL retrofit. I have a 70 year old NEW HOME light running machine. My Mother purchased it in late 1940s. Lightly used. Motor wiring is frayed and sparks so I am afraid to use it. I have cracked open the motor case. Insulation around wires at the springs/brushes is old and stiff. Wiring out of the case is also frayed. Can I use shrink tubing to cover and protect the old insulation at the spring ends and just replace/solder the power ends? No belt. It uses a rubber "tire" on stem to turn the wheel. Stem needs to be long enough for wheel contact. I have looked and cannot find a replacement. Also the bracket to connect to the body of the machine is different than typical belt-driven sewing machines. So I am stuck trying to repair this one. It is solidly built, all metal and there is a sentimental value as well.
This video is so helpful! I was watching this because I'm working on a vintage sewing machine, but remembered your video when my vacuum motor failed... after opening it up, I was surprised how similar those two motors are. Anyway, the copper magnetic wire got too hot in one spot after it comes off the coil and connects to the neutral wire. The small piece that comes away from the coil was insulated with what looks like some black braided fibreglass tubing and then those two layers were then wrapped against the coil under a piece of transparent filament tape (like the kind used to package boxes) and then a zip tie. Something in that combination of layers caused the wire to get too hot and both the wire and fiberglass tubing got singed... and the wire broke in two. So, I am in a very similar predicament as your sewing motor here. I need to connect the two ends of the wire together again by soldering, (the end coming off the coil and the one that is still crimped to the neutral wire. I am thinking that the filament tape might have been the culprit. I like your idea of using the Kapton tape... any issues with using it since you made this video? Thank you in advance for any advice!
When you started talking about the tool I thought VariAC! I am a Ham op, so pretty familiar with that, just don't have one anymore. Great job on the rewire. I have a model 66, have the motor torn to attaching new wire. Thank you
Just rewired my first one today. Thanks for the video. I think the bushings are shot in mine. Center shaft wobbles a little. Need to find those somehow. Think its a Singer 20. Child's toy. Wife reconditions early machines. But not the motors, so asked me to give it a shot. I build electronic circuits, so was not totally dangerous. Thanks again for the video. Helped a lot.
I have faith in you and you will get it going. A good acetone cleaning and new wiring might do it. Thank you for the tutorial, I enjoy learning all I can about repairing sewing machines. I like your soldering station. I used to repair video poker monitors and the circuit boards and I have a Weller soldering station.
Thank you so much! My motor core of my featherweight has the tape around kinda fluffy. I just bought kapton tape, to cover it so the fluffy stuff does not touch other parts.
I have watched MANY tutorials about motor repair of vintage sewing machines. This is the most informative one I have seen. So glad I ran across your channel. I need to replace my motor on my Singer 66. Could you recommend a good place to purchase a compatible motor
Hello. Thank you for the great informative video. I have my late mom's Singer sewing machine. It has the no. 401 - TW on the side. I am assuming that is the model no. The motor heats up and sparks start flying inside of it after a few min's use. Then it will stop working. I can only use the machine 2 minutes at a time. I see replacement motors on the net and wanted to know how to choose the correct one. None seem to have the exact no's that I have on my machine. Thank you
Beautiful Craftsmanship there, and a lot of patience from You! You successfully salvaged that motor. The motor is pretty huge and I wondered what the RPM Speed on it was? I could swear *Salirite* *Ultrafeed* Motors spin about 7000 RPM just before they're geared down to be more manageable on Fabrics, but your looks like it's a 8000 or 9000 RPM Motor, and I want one for some of my home sewing machines. One of my Japanese Early Era Sewing Machines has an outside attached motor rated at about 4000 RPM. I wish to hot Rod that one and still keep it portable.
I have a 1950s Montgomery Ward sewing machine with a motor that needs replaced (has same issue as the one in this video) The motor is a 1.3 amp 115 volts where would you recommend getting the motor. I was told that the Singer motors could work for this machine as long as the amps/volts was what was needed for the machine
I have an vintage model 11 White Rotary Sewing machine that has original wiring. Do you have any videos on rewiring this type of machine? I think I might convert it from a knee controller to foot controller as well. Thank you!
I truly thought this motor was a goner. I was just interested in seeing it torn apart. When I saw how BAD it was when you cracked it open I was like most would think....chuck it. Glad I was wrong. But is this not Murphy working. If we THINK it would never work again. It works. When we think we have this monster defeated...it gives us more to curse at LOL!
Do you know anyone in Nashville TN that works on vintage sewing machines. I need a new electrical cord to the motor. The sewing machine works great. New to be serviced it is in a cabinet and uses a knee pedal. Thank you
Was this a standard lamp cord you used or another specific type? i have a old kenmore id like to replace the cord on. It seem kinds flimsy for the motor
You soldered the connection and then covered it with the Kapton -tape . is that correct? It was hard to see. do you always use Kapton tape instead of electric isolating tape? Hope my question is not too ignorant.
No such thing as 120 percent. Percent literally means per one hundred, impossible to have 120 per 100. I would wager that is 120 volts, the US standard.
Excellent video Wes! Fun and games with old motors. I've never gone quite that far myself. What was the name of the tape that you used and do you think that it will hold up over time? Thanks. 👍
It is Kapton Tape, I added a link for it in the description of the video. Yes, I think it will hold up. It is made for high temperature/long life applications.
You're going to a lot of trouble that you don't need to and I understand this is UA-cam but the bare wire can be dealt with with a good brand of heat shrink tubing doubled up and when you make a Western Union wiring connection with solder you can slip a brand new wire right in that motor and you will never know the difference but I have done this for years I just wish I could get on UA-cam and show how I do it.😙
In general, the cord is the easiest "part" to replace. But I'm constantly surprised by the fact that, many people are so "Fumble Fingered" and klutie that even this simple task is beyond their capabilities!
You are worried that we know your secret for buying a plug with a wire from Amazon? That is laughable. I reuse old wire from lamps all the time. This is probably slightly thicker gauge. You really showed us nothing. The video was so poorly lit, such bad resolution, I could not see how you pulled the wire strain relief bushing out, what brand of pliers you used, what is that machine to test the motor? Learned zero from watching and was insulted by your cheek in suggesting I don't know how to buy a sealed plug. I would not use a sealed plug by the way, only one I can wire up again if needed. Sealed plugs are useless. This channel is a joke and you are very arrogant. Teach something useful and don't be stingy with knowledge. You know because others taught you. It did not come from god.
Oh how I LOOOVE the Scripture Readings! Thank you for sharing your gift and talents. It is truly a noble profession.
Thanks for sharing, it is advisable to test the insulation with a proper Insulation Tester
like this one
Megger BM82/2 Multi Voltage Insulation Meter
which subjects the insulation to 500v /1000v dc between the body and the live wires if it passes then you are safe to use otherwise it is dangerous to use.
"Ok, that actually worked. So did that. That's amazing." "And our motor is woking and I'm not dead!" My two favorite quotes. That was soooo funny because I've soooo been there. Great work!
Thanks Wes!
Thanks very much for showing us the motor anatomy, but I think this is only HALF of the repair. What about the brushes? What about the wiring (springs) around the brushes? Did you clean the commutator? How? I am eager to see the FULL retrofit. I have a 70 year old NEW HOME light running machine. My Mother purchased it in late 1940s. Lightly used. Motor wiring is frayed and sparks so I am afraid to use it. I have cracked open the motor case. Insulation around wires at the springs/brushes is old and stiff. Wiring out of the case is also frayed. Can I use shrink tubing to cover and protect the old insulation at the spring ends and just replace/solder the power ends? No belt. It uses a rubber "tire" on stem to turn the wheel. Stem needs to be long enough for wheel contact. I have looked and cannot find a replacement. Also the bracket to connect to the body of the machine is different than typical belt-driven sewing machines. So I am stuck trying to repair this one. It is solidly built, all metal and there is a sentimental value as well.
Heat shrink tubing comes in very handy
I've just come across your channel. Excellent video on how to fix an old motor. Thank you for sharing.
This video is so helpful! I was watching this because I'm working on a vintage sewing machine, but remembered your video when my vacuum motor failed... after opening it up, I was surprised how similar those two motors are. Anyway, the copper magnetic wire got too hot in one spot after it comes off the coil and connects to the neutral wire. The small piece that comes away from the coil was insulated with what looks like some black braided fibreglass tubing and then those two layers were then wrapped against the coil under a piece of transparent filament tape (like the kind used to package boxes) and then a zip tie. Something in that combination of layers caused the wire to get too hot and both the wire and fiberglass tubing got singed... and the wire broke in two. So, I am in a very similar predicament as your sewing motor here. I need to connect the two ends of the wire together again by soldering, (the end coming off the coil and the one that is still crimped to the neutral wire. I am thinking that the filament tape might have been the culprit. I like your idea of using the Kapton tape... any issues with using it since you made this video? Thank you in advance for any advice!
When you started talking about the tool I thought VariAC! I am a Ham op, so pretty familiar with that, just don't have one anymore. Great job on the rewire. I have a model 66, have the motor torn to attaching new wire.
Thank you
Just rewired my first one today. Thanks for the video. I think the bushings are shot in mine. Center shaft wobbles a little. Need to find those somehow. Think its a Singer 20. Child's toy. Wife reconditions early machines. But not the motors, so asked me to give it a shot. I build electronic circuits, so was not totally dangerous. Thanks again for the video. Helped a lot.
You are a genius! I could never accomplish this! Bless you for your passion! 😊
I have faith in you and you will get it going. A good acetone cleaning and new wiring might do it. Thank you for the tutorial, I enjoy learning all I can about repairing sewing machines. I like your soldering station. I used to repair video poker monitors and the circuit boards and I have a Weller soldering station.
Acetone? No alcohol! Acetone melts plastic and bakelite.
Thanks. Great job! I’m new to your channel. Can you tell me about the Leave-in Hair Conditioner please?
I also polish armature with armature cleaner. Comes in small sticks.called pumis.i chuck armature in drill.spin it while polish where carbons touch.
Thank you so much! My motor core of my featherweight has the tape around kinda fluffy. I just bought kapton tape, to cover it so the fluffy stuff does not touch other parts.
What kind of kapton and where did you purchase it please and thank you very much! Im having trouble sourcing due to the different types.
I have watched MANY tutorials about motor repair of vintage sewing machines. This is the most informative one I have seen. So glad I ran across your channel. I need to replace my motor on my Singer 66. Could you recommend a good place to purchase a compatible motor
Seen one, and owned one lol! Great job and good video, thank you!
Hello. Thank you for the great informative video. I have my late mom's Singer sewing machine. It has the no. 401 - TW on the side. I am assuming that is the model no. The motor heats up and sparks start flying inside of it after a few min's use. Then it will stop working. I can only use the machine 2 minutes at a time. I see replacement motors on the net and wanted to know how to choose the correct one. None seem to have the exact no's that I have on my machine. Thank you
Beautiful Craftsmanship there, and a lot of patience from You! You successfully salvaged that motor. The motor is pretty huge and I wondered what the RPM Speed on it was? I could swear *Salirite* *Ultrafeed* Motors spin about 7000 RPM just before they're geared down to be more manageable on Fabrics, but your looks like it's a 8000 or 9000 RPM Motor, and I want one for some of my home sewing machines. One of my Japanese Early Era Sewing Machines has an outside attached motor rated at about 4000 RPM. I wish to hot Rod that one and still keep it portable.
I have a 1950s Montgomery Ward sewing machine with a motor that needs replaced (has same issue as the one in this video) The motor is a 1.3 amp 115 volts where would you recommend getting the motor. I was told that the Singer motors could work for this machine as long as the amps/volts was what was needed for the machine
I have an vintage model 11 White Rotary Sewing machine that has original wiring. Do you have any videos on rewiring this type of machine? I think I might convert it from a knee controller to foot controller as well. Thank you!
Getting ohm, meter and figure it out I just rewired mine but I don't have a problem with it.
Really enjoyed this video😂
I truly thought this motor was a goner. I was just interested in seeing it torn apart. When I saw how BAD it was when you cracked it open I was like most would think....chuck it. Glad I was wrong. But is this not Murphy working. If we THINK it would never work again. It works. When we think we have this monster defeated...it gives us more to curse at LOL!
You are going to check it with a megger (mega ohm meter) to check insulation resistance
TV corona dope works great for soaking into wiring that's messed up ....
Do you know anyone in Nashville TN that works on vintage sewing machines. I need a new electrical cord to the motor. The sewing machine works great. New to be serviced it is in a cabinet and uses a knee pedal. Thank you
Was this a standard lamp cord you used or another specific type? i have a old kenmore id like to replace the cord on. It seem kinds flimsy for the motor
You soldered the connection and then covered it with the Kapton -tape . is that correct? It was hard to see. do you always use Kapton tape instead of electric isolating tape? Hope my question is not too ignorant.
No such thing as 120 percent. Percent literally means per one hundred, impossible to have 120 per 100. I would wager that is 120 volts, the US standard.
What kind of tape is that you used?
Please show a new motor install on vintage sewing machine
Excellent video Wes! Fun and games with old motors. I've never gone quite that far myself.
What was the name of the tape that you used and do you think that it will hold up over time? Thanks. 👍
It is Kapton Tape, I added a link for it in the description of the video. Yes, I think it will hold up. It is made for high temperature/long life applications.
@@SewingMachineRepairGuy Brilliant. Thank you. 👍
You're going to a lot of trouble that you don't need to and I understand this is UA-cam but the bare wire can be dealt with with a good brand of heat shrink tubing doubled up and when you make a Western Union wiring connection with solder you can slip a brand new wire right in that motor and you will never know the difference but I have done this for years I just wish I could get on UA-cam and show how I do it.😙
You're on youtube ol timer..... You even said so.... Now.. Get at it
are you still working on machines and do you have a course to learn to fix them?
It seems this man will never answer your questions unless you pay him a monthly fee.
In general, the cord is the easiest "part" to replace.
But I'm constantly surprised by the fact that, many people are so "Fumble Fingered" and klutie that even this simple task is beyond their capabilities!
It's not called a rotor, it's an armature thank you.
Thank you
👌👌👍
You are worried that we know your secret for buying a plug with a wire from Amazon? That is laughable. I reuse old wire from lamps all the time. This is probably slightly thicker gauge. You really showed us nothing. The video was so poorly lit, such bad resolution, I could not see how you pulled the wire strain relief bushing out, what brand of pliers you used, what is that machine to test the motor? Learned zero from watching and was insulted by your cheek in suggesting I don't know how to buy a sealed plug. I would not use a sealed plug by the way, only one I can wire up again if needed. Sealed plugs are useless.
This channel is a joke and you are very arrogant. Teach something useful and don't be stingy with knowledge. You know because others taught you. It did not come from god.