If you like saving money and you go the the salvage yard, look at the late 90’s GM pickups on the left rear. The use a flat rectangular activated carbon canister with three fittings. The tanks top are with roll-over valve designed to pass fumes but stop liquid. For those who don’t, will find the gas stations pump shut off as pressure backs up the filler neck. This hydrocarbon rich air passes across the active carbon and stores the hydrocarbons way. They stay inside until purge is opened by the PCM. (Tell your programmer / LT1swap is a good egg and $50, gets-R-done) Yes, now a purge line to the engine to the canister port marked purge, ironic. Save clip-on OEM fitting as you may use them. The third fitting would normally go to the tank vent valve that is normally open. Take a block seat cushion foam or a paper fuel filter for small engines, attach this to the activated carbon canister. This lets outside air in during purge to create an exothermic reaction. The roll-over valve is designed to close when liquid fuel hits it. This forces fuel up the filler neck to shut the pump off when full. This fitting goes to the top of the filler neck to allow for vapor from liquid separation. Fuel caps are hidden behind the tail light or in the bed, but as he said, if it is full of cargo, this is harder. I looked for a period filler cover of my choice, I found a Volvo rectangular door that looks like the GM would use. It is similar shaped for the rectangular body theme of my 1967 C10. It is in the left rear quarter of the bed. I like using a flange tool to off-set the metal on the bed, adds stiffening while allowing the cover to fit flush. Weld in place, grind smooth and use “Dynatron” fiberglass short-strand filler to seal pin holes, filler as normal, then sand. The bed walls are 2 inches thick in the states, but 50 mm in Canada. You do the math. I used the original filler neck with the little tube and the Volvo rubber grommet with cute drain hole for spills as it drips inside. Use a seam sealer on a welded stuff inside the bed sides. AN fittings are aluminum but they can scratch a little. The braided lines are neat and look fabulous until you put it together and you can’t see them. Just take nice photos and put those in you wallet where the kids used to be. Other than that, I used a 22 gallon El Camino tank my son bought. It came without the side neck soldered. I told him I could not fix it and he bought one with the neck installed, then I got my silver solder out. Good luck, best wishes and the cost of paint just tripled, if the companies can find the resins needed. Shortages? DK, Retired ASE Tech. Very nice tank install and I like the screw-on filter. I hate fuel running down into my armpit.
Just found your channel, great content. I'll start a 87 jeep YJ resto-mod, my first full nut and bolt project, I already picked up a few tips. Thanks for sharing.
Just check your video from the chat we had in the last couple days online.. very much appreciate this thank you.. I only wish you had your exhaust on so I could see how it was routed to allow you this room
There is no exhaust out the back - at this ride height I could not fit a 4" pipe (turbo!) between the axle and the bed floor (TREX) aired out without contact. The exhaust ended up corkscrewing around the x-frame and trailing arms, over the top of the frame, through the bedside bottom, and dumping down/angled in front of the wheel inside the step fender. Dual 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" exhaust should fit without too much drama.
No. The dimensions on how to cut the edges of the boards are all over the place, but Trex does not come as wide as the original boards were, so you need to buy one more skid strip, and drill new holes in the cross pieces, many of the mounting nuts of which are super hard to reach from the underside. It looks sweet, but falls under the "surely there must be a better way?" I never found wide enough composite lumber, so I just went for it and tried my hardest not to swear.
Thanks for the info on the truck bed. I knew they weren't as wide. And I have seen the dimensions how to use a router to route the edges so the strips fit down in the groves correctly? Did you use a router on the edges? I wondered if I would have to take one of the trucks boards and rip it down more narrow and maybe make that the center one.. so much to do.... 2 years in and I feel stagnant..
If you make a video showing how to put AN fittings together, I'll certainly watch it. I have a question. Since the 3 hose connections (supply/return/vent) pass over the bracket above the tank, how will you drop the tank in the future if you want to change the fuel pump? I guess an access panel in the bed floor must be your plan. Nice build. I'm really enjoying these videos - thanks!
I am in the midst of figuring that dilemma out. The feed can be easily disconnected at the filter housing, but I think I need to snake the return around a bit so it can come down with the tank for servicing. You get an "A" for noticing that detail I hoped nobody would notice. Good job! No homework for you (grin).
@@GregWellwood Oops, didn't mean to put you on the spot. My 2¢: modify the bracket with a raised section which the 3 hoses pass under, as long as this raised section doesn't interfere with the bed. This should allow the tank to be dropped without disconnecting these hoses.
I was looking at it this morning. I just ordered an AN coupler, so I will put a "disconnect" in the return line right by the filter so the tank will have two "pigtails" of AN hose that can be snaked out/in with the tank. That's an easy button.
@@GregWellwood you could put a square filler door inside the bed at the wheelwell. You would see it from the opposite side of the bed but not from front to back. Next best place is the stack pocket hole
Some have used a Jeep filler on the inside of the bed, but depending what I'm carrying when i need fuel, that can be annoying. I don't want to fill/lose the stake pockets. I will likely do some kind of fuel door in the fender itself. Tough to make it look "right" though.
@@GregWellwood i have seen the filler behind a side marker light. It was cool and the light worked. There's an idea. Just trying to give you ideas. Looking forward to whatever you do.
The original tank was right behind the seat. Right. Behind. The. Seat. Like: flip the seat forward, and you're looking at it. Fumes from ANY leak, or even a splash from over-fueling, or a vented gas cap (right by your left shoulder), and you got potential fumes. With the new location, if you're smelling gas from the tank itself: run.
@@GregWellwood Ohhhhh, thanks for clearing up a mystery that had been bothering me for 25 years, bro. I drove a Firefly that stank of gas, every time I cornered it hard. Couldn't understand what was happening.
Nope, behind the seat and rubber hoses crack every 50 years. Nothing smells worse than cracked rubber, or a skunk, uncle Jake after Taco Tuesday, or !!!!!
If you like saving money and you go the the salvage yard, look at the late 90’s GM pickups on the left rear. The use a flat rectangular activated carbon canister with three fittings. The tanks top are with roll-over valve designed to pass fumes but stop liquid. For those who don’t, will find the gas stations pump shut off as pressure backs up the filler neck. This hydrocarbon rich air passes across the active carbon and stores the hydrocarbons way. They stay inside until purge is opened by the PCM. (Tell your programmer / LT1swap is a good egg and $50, gets-R-done) Yes, now a purge line to the engine to the canister port marked purge, ironic. Save clip-on OEM fitting as you may use them. The third fitting would normally go to the tank vent valve that is normally open. Take a block seat cushion foam or a paper fuel filter for small engines, attach this to the activated carbon canister. This lets outside air in during purge to create an exothermic reaction. The roll-over valve is designed to close when liquid fuel hits it. This forces fuel up the filler neck to shut the pump off when full. This fitting goes to the top of the filler neck to allow for vapor from liquid separation.
Fuel caps are hidden behind the tail light or in the bed, but as he said, if it is full of cargo, this is harder. I looked for a period filler cover of my choice, I found a Volvo rectangular door that looks like the GM would use. It is similar shaped for the rectangular body theme of my 1967 C10. It is in the left rear quarter of the bed. I like using a flange tool to off-set the metal on the bed, adds stiffening while allowing the cover to fit flush. Weld in place, grind smooth and use “Dynatron” fiberglass short-strand filler to seal pin holes, filler as normal, then sand. The bed walls are 2 inches thick in the states, but 50 mm in Canada. You do the math. I used the original filler neck with the little tube and the Volvo rubber grommet with cute drain hole for spills as it drips inside.
Use a seam sealer on a welded stuff inside the bed sides. AN fittings are aluminum but they can scratch a little. The braided lines are neat and look fabulous until you put it together and you can’t see them. Just take nice photos and put those in you wallet where the kids used to be. Other than that, I used a 22 gallon El Camino tank my son bought. It came without the side neck soldered. I told him I could not fix it and he bought one with the neck installed, then I got my silver solder out. Good luck, best wishes and the cost of paint just tripled, if the companies can find the resins needed. Shortages?
DK, Retired ASE Tech.
Very nice tank install and I like the screw-on filter. I hate fuel running down into my armpit.
Just found your channel, great content. I'll start a 87 jeep YJ resto-mod, my first full nut and bolt project, I already picked up a few tips. Thanks for sharing.
Just check your video from the chat we had in the last couple days online.. very much appreciate this thank you.. I only wish you had your exhaust on so I could see how it was routed to allow you this room
There is no exhaust out the back - at this ride height I could not fit a 4" pipe (turbo!) between the axle and the bed floor (TREX) aired out without contact. The exhaust ended up corkscrewing around the x-frame and trailing arms, over the top of the frame, through the bedside bottom, and dumping down/angled in front of the wheel inside the step fender. Dual 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" exhaust should fit without too much drama.
Exhaust: ua-cam.com/video/pI3SeWvbEp0/v-deo.html
@@GregWellwood okay thanks. Did you happen to make a video on the trex bed that's what I need to do next?
No. The dimensions on how to cut the edges of the boards are all over the place, but Trex does not come as wide as the original boards were, so you need to buy one more skid strip, and drill new holes in the cross pieces, many of the mounting nuts of which are super hard to reach from the underside. It looks sweet, but falls under the "surely there must be a better way?" I never found wide enough composite lumber, so I just went for it and tried my hardest not to swear.
Thanks for the info on the truck bed. I knew they weren't as wide. And I have seen the dimensions how to use a router to route the edges so the strips fit down in the groves correctly? Did you use a router on the edges?
I wondered if I would have to take one of the trucks boards and rip it down more narrow and maybe make that the center one.. so much to do.... 2 years in and I feel stagnant..
If you make a video showing how to put AN fittings together, I'll certainly watch it.
I have a question. Since the 3 hose connections (supply/return/vent) pass over the bracket above the tank, how will you drop the tank in the future if you want to change the fuel pump? I guess an access panel in the bed floor must be your plan.
Nice build. I'm really enjoying these videos - thanks!
I am in the midst of figuring that dilemma out. The feed can be easily disconnected at the filter housing, but I think I need to snake the return around a bit so it can come down with the tank for servicing. You get an "A" for noticing that detail I hoped nobody would notice. Good job! No homework for you (grin).
@@GregWellwood Oops, didn't mean to put you on the spot.
My 2¢: modify the bracket with a raised section which the 3 hoses pass under, as long as this raised section doesn't interfere with the bed. This should allow the tank to be dropped without disconnecting these hoses.
I was looking at it this morning. I just ordered an AN coupler, so I will put a "disconnect" in the return line right by the filter so the tank will have two "pigtails" of AN hose that can be snaked out/in with the tank. That's an easy button.
Now wait, you plan on hauling stuff with this truck?!
Well looks like that tank might work for me did i miss it how many gallons plesse
I believe it's 22 gallons.
I hope you make the tail light a fuel filler door...just my idea
I'd like to, but I can't figure out how to make that work on the stepside.
@@GregWellwood you could put a square filler door inside the bed at the wheelwell. You would see it from the opposite side of the bed but not from front to back. Next best place is the stack pocket hole
Some have used a Jeep filler on the inside of the bed, but depending what I'm carrying when i need fuel, that can be annoying. I don't want to fill/lose the stake pockets. I will likely do some kind of fuel door in the fender itself. Tough to make it look "right" though.
@@GregWellwood i have seen the filler behind a side marker light. It was cool and the light worked. There's an idea. Just trying to give you ideas. Looking forward to whatever you do.
No side markers in 1961, just to keep me guessing. (grin) It's a step side, which is much harder to solve than a fleet side.
How would gas fumes get into the cabin though? Isn't it sealed and separated from the passenger compartment?
The original tank was right behind the seat. Right. Behind. The. Seat. Like: flip the seat forward, and you're looking at it. Fumes from ANY leak, or even a splash from over-fueling, or a vented gas cap (right by your left shoulder), and you got potential fumes. With the new location, if you're smelling gas from the tank itself: run.
@@GregWellwood Ohhhhh, thanks for clearing up a mystery that had been bothering me for 25 years, bro. I drove a Firefly that stank of gas, every time I cornered it hard. Couldn't understand what was happening.
Nope, behind the seat and rubber hoses crack every 50 years. Nothing smells worse than cracked rubber, or a skunk, uncle Jake after Taco Tuesday, or !!!!!
My last Firefly smelled like burnt rubber.....
i snake the filler tube up trough the stake pockets