How do you cover the cost of the 1/100 model? Do you plan very carefully and buy when on sale or do you buy them and use some parts for your builds and save the rest for later use
This one is a commission and the client has a very clear idea of what he wanted so I bought the dynames and heavyarms just for this project. To save costs, The sazabi backpack was from Daban. For personal builds, I plan first then get the kits I think I need, I store the unused parts in a box for future projects.
Do you find vallejo primer and paints tear when masking? Even after I weaken tamiya masking tape by sticking it other things it still can pull up paint.
Not particularly no. Whenever I have to mask certain parts (or even when I don’t) I let the paints cure for 24 hours. Vallejo is water based acrylic so the curing time is generally 24 hours (more is better) after that time frame, it’s durable enough that I can throw it around and scrub it with a toothbrush and the paint is still fine. :) Another thing you can do is after priming or after the base colors, do a gloss varnish (gloss is the strongest amongst satin & matte) then let it dry for a couple of hours (or use a blow dryer) before masking. Another tip with masking, is to just lightly pull the tape from the side, don’t pull it straight up away from the part because you run a higher risk or pulling the paint with it. Hopefully this helps! :)
@@NicoSuratos That’s a very thorough and helpful explanation! Do you have any recommendation for acrylics that do not scratch easily? I am using Mecha Vallejo but the arms and other parts easily scratch when moving.
The Mecha Color line is the most durable and scratch resistant amongst all Vallejo paint lines. I can’t recommend any other brands as I only use Vallejo and SMS Paints :) SMS paints, their Infinite Colour line are water based paints that are also durable and scratch resistant, much like Vallejo Mecha Color. For moving parts, especially in Gunpla, it’s a bit tricky to not have them scratch easily no matter what paints you used, so the usual technique for that is to sand all the areas (that you know might bump and scratch against each other) before painting, this is to prepare for the paint later on.
IT'S BEAUTIFUL THE BLUE COLOUR MAKES IT LOOKS SO NICE AND IT LOOKS SO REGAL.
Thank you! I really love the colors as well!
THAT WAS EPIC WWWWWWWWWWWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.
Thank you!
Airbrushing without gloves? Hardcore. I love this build!
Haha yeah I airbrush with no gloves! It’s water based paints anyways so I’m fine! 😆
Already kitbashing. You got a good teacher.👍👍👍
thank you!
Wow. That was an awsome kit bash. Looking forward to more
Thank you!
Yea this was pretty awesome. Would love to see how you paint the shield.
Awesome job and very inspiring.
Appreciate it!!! 😁
How do you cover the cost of the 1/100 model? Do you plan very carefully and buy when on sale or do you buy them and use some parts for your builds and save the rest for later use
This one is a commission and the client has a very clear idea of what he wanted so I bought the dynames and heavyarms just for this project. To save costs, The sazabi backpack was from Daban. For personal builds, I plan first then get the kits I think I need, I store the unused parts in a box for future projects.
@@NicoSuratos I didn't realize that was for a client, your video shows your skills perfectly keep up the superb work.
No voice over for this one because I was too shy before lol but yes this was a commission 😊 thank you for watching!
Do you find vallejo primer and paints tear when masking? Even after I weaken tamiya masking tape by sticking it other things it still can pull up paint.
Not particularly no. Whenever I have to mask certain parts (or even when I don’t) I let the paints cure for 24 hours. Vallejo is water based acrylic so the curing time is generally 24 hours (more is better) after that time frame, it’s durable enough that I can throw it around and scrub it with a toothbrush and the paint is still fine. :)
Another thing you can do is after priming or after the base colors, do a gloss varnish (gloss is the strongest amongst satin & matte) then let it dry for a couple of hours (or use a blow dryer) before masking.
Another tip with masking, is to just lightly pull the tape from the side, don’t pull it straight up away from the part because you run a higher risk or pulling the paint with it.
Hopefully this helps! :)
@@NicoSuratos That’s a very thorough and helpful explanation! Do you have any recommendation for acrylics that do not scratch easily? I am using Mecha Vallejo but the arms and other parts easily scratch when moving.
The Mecha Color line is the most durable and scratch resistant amongst all Vallejo paint lines. I can’t recommend any other brands as I only use Vallejo and SMS Paints :)
SMS paints, their Infinite Colour line are water based paints that are also durable and scratch resistant, much like Vallejo Mecha Color.
For moving parts, especially in Gunpla, it’s a bit tricky to not have them scratch easily no matter what paints you used, so the usual technique for that is to sand all the areas (that you know might bump and scratch against each other) before painting, this is to prepare for the paint later on.
@@NicoSuratos super helpful, thank you.
Nice work. Do you save all the extra parts. Or sell them ?
thank you! I save all extra parts and use it for my next build sometimes
Do you wash your hands with thinner after painting process?
Jk
Drown my hands in it lol…kidding aside, just soap and water will do that’s why I don’t bother with gloves 😅