I was a bit cross with you yesterday. I had a batch of parts to make, and I have developed a involuntary reflex. I cannot stop saying to myself, "I will start by facing off as is tradition", every single time !! If I start saying "Yahtzee" when parting off I will have no choose but to sell my machines or stick my head in the oven !!! 😀😁😂
As an non machinist, it's very nice to watch this and it is shown nice and simple (understandable). I understand there is a ton of skill and mistakes also repeats before you make it look that simple. Thank you for theese nice videos.
Quinn, you don’t have to keep saying “look, it happens”. We’re lookin’, and it’s happenin’. Just got my first lathe AND mill two days ago, Ive been binge watching your channel when I should be sleeping. Thanks!
As a Machinist and Finish Grinder for more than 40 years on the Handles.You do a GREAT JOB Quinn.I watch all Your Videos.Keep up the Quest to Create.I also have a home shop and Love Making Chips.
I love these clamps! During my early college years I was working on a Drafting: Electronics certificate (for both drafting AND PCB design), and this was in one of my drafting design books that was used for class. I used the drawings and re-designed them in AutoCAD for my class and my teacher accepted it as bonus work! :D
Nice project. I have been making small parts from hot rolled plate. After shaping I soak then for 12 to 24 hours in vinegar. A light scrub removes most of the residue and a quick pass with the random orbital sander makes them look amazing.
Gray Drafting and Design is going to be getting a lot of new business. While watching Quinn's video on fixturing, she showed a beautiful tooling plate and said that it was available at Little Machine Shop (LMS). I looked and is was available, so I ordered one. LMS is usually very prompt to ship, and I was surprised when it didn't show up in a few days. When I checked the LMS website again, I noted that the tooling plate was out-of-stock. I just got the plate two days ago. Apparently, LMS was inundated with orders for the tooling plate following Quinn's video and ran out of stock.
Great video (as always) thanks. A trick I recently learned regarding removal of mill scale from hot rolled steel, is to soak it in clear distilled vinegar. I had a fairly large area to deal with on a plate and it worked a treat. Note: It helps if you can keep it warm. Still works cold but takes a lot longer. After 24hrs on a radiator, I was able to rub the scale of with my fingers.
Awesome! I have wanted to make these clamps since I first used a set (actually, I wanted to buy them until I saw the cost of the brand-name clamp). They are great clamps but there is only so much I can spend before buyer's remorse sets in. These kits from D. Gray are a fantastic deal. Thanks for sharing and for taking the time to make a great video.
The labor to manufacture this type of clamp is a huge part of the cost. DIY (if possible) solves that issue. And yes, the kits from D. Gray are a good deal!
@@exador1337 ....Depends upon what you are looking for in your tools. The quality of the kit (if machined and assembled properly) appears to be very good. $37 for two will not get you near the quality of the original "Kant Twist", but if price is the deciding factor, then I guess you give them a try.
FYI you can actually get an ER32 collet holder on a backplate. That way there's no limit to the length of stock you can hold, but for what's at the back end of your lathe. I also found some ER32 collets up to 1"! You might also consider a ballbearing nut, which increases your clamping force. My next project is to make an adjustable backplate for my collet plate, in case someday the runout of the collets is too big. Keep up the good work!
Boolean geometry, conic sections and the word topology all in a video about making clamps!... Wow I'm impressed. Just pray that your mill doesn't go all non-Euclidean!
I've been "deburring" the old fashioned way for perhaps fifty years, and I believe I will visit the deburring tools you show to be rather excellent, effective, that I've ignored all the past years. Thanks!
That is a really nice kit. I may get one of these to convert to a scissor style knurling tool. I read article from I think Home Ship Machinist magazine which converted an actual Kant clamp. I tried this, and just managed to ruin the clamp and not get a knurling tool. This kit would be so much easier for the conversion. Thanks for the video. Dave.
I made a set of Kant twist knock offs on my Prototrak . I superglued the sheet stock for the sides to a piece of aluminum plate so I could profile them and do all the drilling in one step. I nested all the sides on one piece of 1/8" x 4" flat bar
@@russellstarr9111 I've been involved in spray welding in the past. Mostly with ceramic for seal surfaces. Later I worked for a company that manufactures and rebuilds centrifuges for waste treatment plants. Their own and other manufactures models. One of the premier shops in the country in that industry www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.centrisys-cnp.com/&ved=2ahUKEwiM65KDv5_wAhWGWM0KHQ7hDaIQFnoECAoQAg&usg=AOvVaw3iuAKgrKhn7Y7pLUzphjrC The stuff we sent out for spray weld there was a tungsten alloy and ground.
Right on, Quinn 😊! Doug sent me the same kit. Been sitting on it for a couple months now. Life issues, and needed a few tools but finally got started last night. And being half Ukrainian, I'm going about it a little differently 🤣. Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
When I was at college taking the Industrial Maintenance Mechanic I had to cut with a hand saw those brackets also using gauges for the radius, a surface grinder, a lathe etc. I was almost done with this project and someone stole it so I had to start all over again.
oooh As usual another great video from Blondihacks... but ? they are allways good. let's get a single malt to watch it . bravo et merci pour cette nouvelle vidéo, keep machining .
Great video Quinn. Good job on keeping the hole in center of the part that was difficult task for the order of operations. You know you are going to have to make a collet stop now. You probably have a piece of scrap that would work. Yould need piece of threaded rod. If you need a sketch of one I can measure the one I use at work.
Acetone melts super glue,it also if added to super glue can thin super glue or prevent the glue gelling to quickly over time....lasts longer,thins gelled glue,also removes from hair ....but that's another story!!!! i may just feel the need to make some of these clamping devices of various sizes.
Great video Quinn, I would love to have this kit. Even more if it was signed! However I’m not brave enough yet to face and drill the side of a cylinder in my 4 jaw chuck. And I don’t have a face plate yet. Can’t wait for the other half of the build. Cheers!
Made a set of these years ago that had a maximum jaw opening of about 10 inches or so. Welded the stand-off pins in place. The arms were stainless. Not the best choice as mild steel would probably have been stronger*. Then Enco started selling copies of Kant Twists. I like the ones Stefan uses. The idea of an Acme or Trapezoidal thread is excellent. Even better would be Butress Threads. *I've seen people replace high grade carbon steel screws with stainless thinking they are stronger. They aren't. An M12 SHCS in stainless will have a torque rating in the range of 50 to 60 ftlbs depending on the grade. A grade 12 M12 has a torque rating of 110 ftlbs.
17:46 A straw is actually a donut, so it has one hole and at that moment you are holding a two holed torus. Speaking of donuts, I think I'll buy some drinking donuts from your merch store.
I made those same clamps in Machining class at tech collage. except we peened over the standoff bushing instead of using screws to hold them. They were a little longer on the small dia. so the could act like a rivet.
You can get quite wonderful perogies at the Ukrainian East Village Restaurant on 2nd Avenue in NYC. Although it's been a while since I've been there. Requires more recent research.
I have a question (I'm not a machinist). You mentioned your "dull" tools. Aside from not cutting properly, could such tool mess up the dimensions of a workpiece? I guess piece gets warmer than with a very sharp tool, therefore expands more so that more material is cut off to the final dimensions, right? When it cools down it may be smaller then? Is this a common problem in machining (maybe just in high precision)? Love your videos btw!
One of the biggest challenges with dull tooling is that it leaves a poor surface finish. You are correct about dull tools generating more heat than sharp ones. For many materials such as mild steel it isn't too bad of an issue if you leave the part oversize so that once it cools down you can use a sharp tool to finish it to correct dimensions. Some materials will work harden making them more difficult to perform additional operations. Long story short, it makes sense to keep tools as sharp as possible and, if possible, have identical spares so you don't have to run back and forth sharpening the same tool
While watching this, I was wondering if cutting a V in the strap of your cross drilling fixture wouldn't give you more purchase on the part you are clamping, or would having clamping force from four faces on a round object actually increase the chance of part slippage rather than decrease it when applying the force of the drilling operation?
This is a really great project! I suppose if one wants to make the plates as well it would be a nightmare to do. All that filling and belt sanding but a great project for semi-experienced people.
Interesting project .been considering buying these type clamps but making might be a better option .i think it should just about be with in my capabilities
Fantastic Vid. Though we defiantly need more Sprocket. I am saving up for a Precision M Lathe or a Grizzly. Love the Pac Man too. Cheers from Southern California,
When you turn a piece to length, how are you finding the position after putting it back into the collet (or chuck) after measuring? Is touching off accurate enough or is there a better trick? Thanks, Hansi
I love your honesty and not showing us the rest. Though it wouldn't work temporarily connecting two pieces of steel like you did with super glue, there may be times when hot glue would work to temporarily hold things together. Obviously the material would need to be clean not oily for the glue to hold things together. Hot glue in between two pieces of steel might set up way before the pieces were squished all the way together so that's why it might not work for what you just did. Hot glue will clean off of any surface using 70% or above isopropyl or denatured alcohol. I once "machined" four pieces of quarter inch aluminum plate to make into a router lift. There is a top plate and bottom plate making up the frame. To center sections coupled together hold the router and allow it to move up and down in a sort of carriage. Having a drill press and not a milling machine meant I needed to find an alternative method for accuracy. The center carriage needed to slide up and down on four shafts and not bind. I stacked all four sheets on top of a section of plywood, then carefully "goobered" all four corners together and also onto the plywood. I could then do my layout, punch center holes and drill through all four pieces in one step. There's a fair number of holes and if a hole was off by 1/128ths of an inch.... ... I mean .0078" 😉 It would have made no difference since all holes would be off the exact same amount yet being perfect alignment for what I needed. Iffn' you get bored, try it sometime. I wouldn't want to use that while something spinning it 7500 RPM, but for temporary jigs is really quick and a little squirt from a bottle of your chosen alcohol, the part separate cleanly with no added heat. You squirt the alcohol on the parts let it sit for a few minutes and just try and wiggle and pry them a little bit and they'll pop right apart. That's all about me, so I need to get back and finish watching your video. So far, so good, as I would expect no less .
Looks good so far, but I've decided to stop watching (@3:14), order the kit and build them with you later. It will be a nice first project on my lathe at some point. I never had an interest in steam engines and by the end of it I wanted the kit you had so I could use your work to build one correctly this seems like a better option!
Quinn... if you're ever in Pittsburgh, visit the Andy Warhol museum, ride the Duquesne Incline to check out the drive machinery below (mechanical nerd city)... and get the only decent perogies in the USA...
That is amazing, Quinn! I really want to make these! They seem super useful and I have everything to make them.. Just ordering stock now haha... I found free plans online! Keep up the videos. They are beautifully crafted and they bring me and many others plans and joy. May I ask what that beautiful blackened tap wrench is?
A woman who likes to live dangerously; handling heated metals while wearing a leather glove with a blown out finger seam. Me doing the same thing: fumble finger one of the parts, and it lands right in the blown seam. Just my life... You know, there's these handy little clamps available in both 3/4" and 1" sizes which would be perfect replacements for the 'paper clips'. I think they're made by... oh, yeah, Kant Twist. ;)~ What makes Kant Twists even better is plastic handle covers; Kant Twist ended up buying the company who makes them. Good combo lathe and mill project to make your own, (hint, hint). Plus, shop made likely won't split like the store bought covers do. Re: the challenge of 'tap too short' There is a specialty tap called an extension tap, (not to be confused with a 'pulley tap' or a 'nut tap', (look up a pic, you'll see what I mean). One type of 'extension tap' has an undercut shank. With an OAL of 4" or 6", and an undercut shank, you can go deep. Example of an undercut extension tap: www.mscdirect.com/product/details/87152146?rItem=87152146 GeoD
Once I wanted to grind off the mill scale from a sheet of metal with a red flap disc on the angle grinder. But it only polished it. :-) Some research with Dr. Google hinted to hydrochloric acid, which turned out to really work like a charm.
Quinn, Another fantastic clip, love it. An the Humour is fantastic, keep up the good work. A suggestion for another clip, I see you using a magnifying glass from time too time. How about making an “optical centre punch”? Cheers Matt.
A cool tool to get really accurate punch marks on an existing mark is an optical center punch. Learned about it from Adam Savage on his Tested channel.
Get an old spiral action hand drill (google or ask your grandad), add a small Chuck if needed, use with either internal or external demurring tool - lots easier than your two.
More than any other tool, any supply, or anything, the woodworker or machinists quest to find or build just "one more clamp" is never satisfied. Clamps are the perfect gift for "the woodworker who has everything". For me to see a stairway maker's project is, I'll become socially awkward, forget myself, and then will need to be excused before I blather on like a bass-boater at a yacht club social.
@@ronwilken5219 Sorry Ron, my comment was an attempt at humor. I grew up in Michigan and when I was a young man I would make trips across the boarder often. Drinking age was lower on your side.
Quinn, can these be done in a three jaw chuck? that the only one for now that I have for my new lathe and I don't know if the one for the older lathe will adapt to the new one?
I see you are operating files on a regular basis. Any particular make you would recommend? Back in the day there was a Finnish company Viialan Viila Oy making some of the best files money could buy. They had some kind of secret tempering method making the files very sharp, grippy and long lasting. Sandvik bought the company in 1996 and in 1998 it was defunct. File manufacturing was transferred to Spain. Sandvik makes Bahco files, not sure if those are crap or not. I have one Viiala file, inherited from my late father. Perhaps I should frame it and put on a wall. Thank you for this gripping video. Stay healthy and keep up the good work!
Starts the video, hits like; as is tradition.
I was a bit cross with you yesterday. I had a batch of parts to make, and I have developed a involuntary reflex. I cannot stop saying to myself, "I will start by facing off as is tradition", every single time !!
If I start saying "Yahtzee" when parting off I will have no choose but to sell my machines or stick my head in the oven !!!
😀😁😂
As an non machinist, it's very nice to watch this and it is shown nice and simple (understandable). I understand there is a ton of skill and mistakes also repeats before you make it look that simple. Thank you for theese nice videos.
YES! I love these type of clamps!
Quinn, you don’t have to keep saying “look, it happens”. We’re lookin’, and it’s happenin’. Just got my first lathe AND mill two days ago, Ive been binge watching your channel when I should be sleeping. Thanks!
As a maker from Winnipeg, I'm glad to hear that you like Canadian pierogies.
She should. She's Canadian.
I swear, I'll find you and feed you pierogi until you stop adding "s" at the end! It's already plural!
Fun fact: John Candy used to regularly order dozens of frozen Perogies form Alycia's restaurant in Winnipeg to be shipped to his home in California.
@@pileofstuff Fun fact: John Candy died of a Heart Attack. So Canada killed John Candy..!!!
I live about five block from Alycia's sadly they are out of business now.
Saturday. First click is blondihacks. As is tradition.😀
As a Machinist and Finish Grinder for more than 40 years on the Handles.You do a GREAT JOB Quinn.I watch all Your Videos.Keep up the Quest to Create.I also have a home shop and Love Making Chips.
Is the green zip tie just to keep the locking plate from rattling?
Yup 😬
Well you have a good grip on this project. Ahl be baak for the next part.
I love these clamps! During my early college years I was working on a Drafting: Electronics certificate (for both drafting AND PCB design), and this was in one of my drafting design books that was used for class. I used the drawings and re-designed them in AutoCAD for my class and my teacher accepted it as bonus work! :D
Nice project. I have been making small parts from hot rolled plate. After shaping I soak then for 12 to 24 hours in vinegar. A light scrub removes most of the residue and a quick pass with the random orbital sander makes them look amazing.
Gray Drafting and Design is going to be getting a lot of new business. While watching Quinn's video on fixturing, she showed a beautiful tooling plate and said that it was available at Little Machine Shop (LMS). I looked and is was available, so I ordered one. LMS is usually very prompt to ship, and I was surprised when it didn't show up in a few days. When I checked the LMS website again, I noted that the tooling plate was out-of-stock. I just got the plate two days ago. Apparently, LMS was inundated with orders for the tooling plate following Quinn's video and ran out of stock.
Yup, she’s an influencer all right.
Well done Quinn, I've been eyeing those clamp kits...maybe, just maybe!
Great video (as always) thanks. A trick I recently learned regarding removal of mill scale from hot rolled steel, is to soak it in clear distilled vinegar. I had a fairly large area to deal with on a plate and it worked a treat. Note: It helps if you can keep it warm. Still works cold but takes a lot longer. After 24hrs on a radiator, I was able to rub the scale of with my fingers.
Awesome! I have wanted to make these clamps since I first used a set (actually, I wanted to buy them until I saw the cost of the brand-name clamp). They are great clamps but there is only so much I can spend before buyer's remorse sets in. These kits from D. Gray are a fantastic deal. Thanks for sharing and for taking the time to make a great video.
The labor to manufacture this type of clamp is a huge part of the cost. DIY (if possible) solves that issue. And yes, the kits from D. Gray are a good deal!
@@paulcopeland9035 is it a good deal tho? i would pay for a set of two assembled clamps about 37$, while for the kit 57.99$.
@@exador1337 ....Depends upon what you are looking for in your tools. The quality of the kit (if machined and assembled properly) appears to be very good. $37 for two will not get you near the quality of the original "Kant Twist", but if price is the deciding factor, then I guess you give them a try.
FYI you can actually get an ER32 collet holder on a backplate. That way there's no limit to the length of stock you can hold, but for what's at the back end of your lathe. I also found some ER32 collets up to 1"! You might also consider a ballbearing nut, which increases your clamping force. My next project is to make an adjustable backplate for my collet plate, in case someday the runout of the collets is too big.
Keep up the good work!
I'd fight you about the perogies, if for no other reason to see how I'd look with two finely crafted, remarkably symmetrical black eyes.
Sorry - but like hockey and beer, Canadian perogie’s are best.
Clearly there's a lot of people who haven't been to Port Richmond, Philadelphia. Or know how to spell pierogi.
Boolean geometry, conic sections and the word topology all in a video about making clamps!... Wow I'm impressed. Just pray that your mill doesn't go all non-Euclidean!
Excellent Video Quinn, i had no idea this kit was available. You did a great job presenting and machining.
Thank you
Sincerely
Troy in Australia
Of all the maker and machinist I watch you make me want a lathe most. I really like the clamps so far.
A straw has a continuous hole an therefore it's one hole.
Love your videos🙂
Keep up the good work 👍
BTW youre ending frase is very similar to another "tuber" and i know that you are into that things too.😁
Any guessing who I'm thinking of?🤪
Hello Quinn,
Nice show tonight... Good luck to all your Patreon's in the completion...
Take care.
Paul,,
I've been "deburring" the old fashioned way for perhaps fifty years, and I believe I will visit the deburring tools you show to be rather excellent, effective, that I've ignored all the past years. Thanks!
Quinn, you have all the cool deburring tools, I really need to step up my game 👍🏼
Thanks for a great build video, Quinn! Keep them coming!
Its almost as if you made that cross drill fixture knowing you needed one in an upcoming video 🤣👍🏻
😇
Good work as usual. We posted this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
That is a really nice kit. I may get one of these to convert to a scissor style knurling tool. I read article from I think Home Ship Machinist magazine which converted an actual Kant clamp. I tried this, and just managed to ruin the clamp and not get a knurling tool. This kit would be so much easier for the conversion.
Thanks for the video.
Dave.
Just make the arms a lot shorter/stiffer. Knurling exerts some serious force into the cross slide as well as the actual tool, not just clamping force.
Quinn, this video had it all! a tappy tap tap ,and your sense of humor ( a bit like my own) !!
Those are some seriously strong clamps. Never thought I would be able to make my own.
This brings back memories. I made one of these as part of my apprenticeship, many moons ago.
Superglued joints can also be broken by placing in the freezer and then dropping. A great way of building the same whitemetal kit more than once,
I made a set of Kant twist knock offs on my Prototrak . I superglued the sheet stock for the sides to a piece of aluminum plate so I could profile them and do all the drilling in one step. I nested all the sides on one piece of 1/8" x 4" flat bar
On aiming for the MMC on tolerances, as my old machining teacher used to say, "It's a lot easier to remove material than it is to add it back on".
spray welding is EZ
@@lazyman114
In my experience the spray weld grinds well but machines lousy.
@@mpetersen6 Go look at Abom79 channel for his spray welding and machining video's to see how it's really done.
@@russellstarr9111
I've been involved in spray welding in the past. Mostly with ceramic for seal surfaces. Later I worked for a company that manufactures and rebuilds centrifuges for waste treatment plants. Their own and other manufactures models. One of the premier shops in the country in that industry
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.centrisys-cnp.com/&ved=2ahUKEwiM65KDv5_wAhWGWM0KHQ7hDaIQFnoECAoQAg&usg=AOvVaw3iuAKgrKhn7Y7pLUzphjrC
The stuff we sent out for spray weld there was a tungsten alloy and ground.
Great project. Your pac man imitation brought back some good childhood memories
Right on, Quinn 😊! Doug sent me the same kit. Been sitting on it for a couple months now. Life issues, and needed a few tools but finally got started last night. And being half Ukrainian, I'm going about it a little differently 🤣. Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
Looking forward to it Chris. I'm Ukrainian by marriage!
@@d.graydraftinganddesign361 well, we know your eating good then 🤣
Just ordered this kit. Looks fun.
Woo hoo! It's Blondihacks time!!
I made some of those years ago. They were a little bigger. They opened to 8.5" Great clamps and a good project
Paraphrasing: “all of the tolerances and fits need to be quite precise”... well sure. Otherwise they’d be CAN twist clamps 😜😜
InstaBlaster...
When I was at college taking the Industrial Maintenance Mechanic I had to cut with a hand saw those brackets also using gauges for the radius, a surface grinder, a lathe etc. I was almost done with this project and someone stole it so I had to start all over again.
Good
Good project
Quinn the toolmaker
Last hoarder house I helped clean out had about 20 3" Kants in a cloth bag, NOS. And the world's biggest collection of ordinary C clamps. Noice!
I have come to look forward to your videos. You do great work and give great explainations. Thank you for your effort and hard work.
Hi Quinn. As always a great video. I always look forward to every one. "Hi" from Manitoba
oooh As usual another great video from Blondihacks... but ? they are allways good. let's get a single malt to watch it . bravo et merci pour cette nouvelle vidéo, keep machining .
This type of clamps are the most useful of them all!
Grat video agan 👍😁
Who needs a Rolex when you can have a pair of these clamps made by Quinn???
4:23 acetone dissolves CA glue :D So you can clean it with that and probebly break the parts apart using acetone.
Yes i know
@@Blondihacks Welp kinda expected that respond.
5:00 sandblasting would also be an option to get a uniform surface
Subscribed yesterday. Hihi thank your sharing. You re working job with caress. Your joking so funny 😁👏👍👌😃.
thank you
, nice review
Great video Quinn. Good job on keeping the hole in center of the part that was difficult task for the order of operations.
You know you are going to have to make a collet stop now. You probably have a piece of scrap that would work. Yould need piece of threaded rod. If you need a sketch of one I can measure the one I use at work.
Acetone melts super glue,it also if added to super glue can thin super glue or prevent the glue gelling to quickly over time....lasts longer,thins gelled glue,also removes from hair ....but that's another story!!!!
i may just feel the need to make some of these clamping devices of various sizes.
Great video Quinn, I would love to have this kit. Even more if it was signed! However I’m not brave enough yet to face and drill the side of a cylinder in my 4 jaw chuck. And I don’t have a face plate yet. Can’t wait for the other half of the build. Cheers!
Made a set of these years ago that had a maximum jaw opening of about 10 inches or so. Welded the stand-off pins in place. The arms were stainless. Not the best choice as mild steel would probably have been stronger*.
Then Enco started selling copies of Kant Twists. I like the ones Stefan uses. The idea of an Acme or Trapezoidal thread is excellent. Even better would be Butress Threads.
*I've seen people replace high grade carbon steel screws with stainless thinking they are stronger. They aren't. An M12 SHCS in stainless will have a torque rating in the range of 50 to 60 ftlbs depending on the grade. A grade 12 M12 has a torque rating of 110 ftlbs.
Hi Quinn!
At 21:06 at the top right corner there is a small circular tool. What is it called? It does not seem to be in your list of equipment.
17:46 A straw is actually a donut, so it has one hole and at that moment you are holding a two holed torus. Speaking of donuts, I think I'll buy some drinking donuts from your merch store.
Nice little project! Definitely fun to make, I guess. Although I wonder if you get a pair of new clamps for the price of the kit
Hobby machining never saves money. That’s not why we do it. There is nothing you can make that China can’t make cheaper.
@@Blondihacks You're right :) Cool project, video and kit anyway!
I have a Hemmingway broaching tool kit, waiting for my mill to arrive
I made those same clamps in Machining class at tech collage. except we peened over the standoff bushing instead of using screws to hold them. They were a little longer on the small dia. so the could act like a rivet.
You can get quite wonderful perogies at the Ukrainian East Village Restaurant on 2nd Avenue in NYC. Although it's been a while since I've been there. Requires more recent research.
Don't forget your gun if you go !
@@waynepollard6879 I don't think the perogies will resist when I eat them, but thanks for the advice.
I have a question (I'm not a machinist). You mentioned your "dull" tools. Aside from not cutting properly, could such tool mess up the dimensions of a workpiece? I guess piece gets warmer than with a very sharp tool, therefore expands more so that more material is cut off to the final dimensions, right? When it cools down it may be smaller then? Is this a common problem in machining (maybe just in high precision)?
Love your videos btw!
One of the biggest challenges with dull tooling is that it leaves a poor surface finish. You are correct about dull tools generating more heat than sharp ones. For many materials such as mild steel it isn't too bad of an issue if you leave the part oversize so that once it cools down you can use a sharp tool to finish it to correct dimensions.
Some materials will work harden making them more difficult to perform additional operations.
Long story short, it makes sense to keep tools as sharp as possible and, if possible, have identical spares so you don't have to run back and forth sharpening the same tool
@@robertoswalt319 Thank you for the explanation! Very interesting!
While watching this, I was wondering if cutting a V in the strap of your cross drilling fixture wouldn't give you more purchase on the part you are clamping, or would having clamping force from four faces on a round object actually increase the chance of part slippage rather than decrease it when applying the force of the drilling operation?
This is a really great project! I suppose if one wants to make the plates as well it would be a nightmare to do. All that filling and belt sanding but a great project for semi-experienced people.
Interesting project .been considering buying these type clamps but making might be a better option .i think it should just about be with in my capabilities
buying is the better option as you don't have the assembling work and pay about 20$ less for a pair.
Boolean geometry. Love it.
Very nice video format, enjoyed your style
Can you discuss how you made sure when you flipped the part in the collet block that the feature inside the block was parallel with the vice?
It doesn’t need to be, because they are separate parts. They get cut apart
@@Blondihacks I commented before you parted them :) thanks for replying anyhow
Quinn no Fight you can beat me up.
great Work
Fantastic Vid. Though we defiantly need more Sprocket. I am saving up for a Precision M Lathe or a Grizzly. Love the Pac Man too. Cheers from Southern California,
I had to watch the ending 3 times to work out what was going on with that part, magically launching itself back into place.
When you turn a piece to length, how are you finding the position after putting it back into the collet (or chuck) after measuring? Is touching off accurate enough or is there a better trick? Thanks, Hansi
Yah, a very light and careful touch-off will get you within half a thou
You can also use a feeler gage when it’s super critical
@@Blondihacks Great, thanks for the info!
4:26 thankyou 🤔😏
I love your honesty and not showing us the rest.
Though it wouldn't work temporarily connecting two pieces of steel like you did with super glue, there may be times when hot glue would work to temporarily hold things together. Obviously the material would need to be clean not oily for the glue to hold things together. Hot glue in between two pieces of steel might set up way before the pieces were squished all the way together so that's why it might not work for what you just did.
Hot glue will clean off of any surface using 70% or above isopropyl or denatured alcohol.
I once "machined" four pieces of quarter inch aluminum plate to make into a router lift. There is a top plate and bottom plate making up the frame. To center sections coupled together hold the router and allow it to move up and down in a sort of carriage.
Having a drill press and not a milling machine meant I needed to find an alternative method for accuracy. The center carriage needed to slide up and down on four shafts and not bind.
I stacked all four sheets on top of a section of plywood, then carefully "goobered" all four corners together and also onto the plywood. I could then do my layout, punch center holes and drill through all four pieces in one step. There's a fair number of holes and if a hole was off by 1/128ths of an inch....
... I mean .0078" 😉
It would have made no difference since all holes would be off the exact same amount yet being perfect alignment for what I needed.
Iffn' you get bored, try it sometime. I wouldn't want to use that while something spinning it 7500 RPM, but for temporary jigs is really quick and a little squirt from a bottle of your chosen alcohol, the part separate cleanly with no added heat. You squirt the alcohol on the parts let it sit for a few minutes and just try and wiggle and pry them a little bit and they'll pop right apart.
That's all about me, so I need to get back and finish watching your video. So far, so good, as I would expect no less
.
Great work
Looks good so far, but I've decided to stop watching (@3:14), order the kit and build them with you later. It will be a nice first project on my lathe at some point.
I never had an interest in steam engines and by the end of it I wanted the kit you had so I could use your work to build one correctly this seems like a better option!
How do you read this? 6:33 I get the 0.99 part where did you get the 0,006 from?
Quinn... if you're ever in Pittsburgh, visit the Andy Warhol museum, ride the Duquesne Incline to check out the drive machinery below (mechanical nerd city)... and get the only decent perogies in the USA...
4:33 -- time to put some of those viewer funds to use for some new gloves! Glad you didn't burn yourself.
That is amazing, Quinn! I really want to make these! They seem super useful and I have everything to make them.. Just ordering stock now haha... I found free plans online! Keep up the videos. They are beautifully crafted and they bring me and many others plans and joy. May I ask what that beautiful blackened tap wrench is?
A woman who likes to live dangerously; handling heated metals while wearing a leather glove with a blown out finger seam.
Me doing the same thing: fumble finger one of the parts, and it lands right in the blown seam. Just my life...
You know, there's these handy little clamps available in both 3/4" and 1" sizes which would be perfect replacements for the 'paper clips'. I think they're made by...
oh, yeah, Kant Twist. ;)~
What makes Kant Twists even better is plastic handle covers; Kant Twist ended up buying the company who makes them. Good combo lathe and mill project to make your own, (hint, hint). Plus, shop made likely won't split like the store bought covers do.
Re: the challenge of 'tap too short'
There is a specialty tap called an extension tap, (not to be confused with a 'pulley tap' or a 'nut tap', (look up a pic, you'll see what I mean). One type of 'extension tap' has an undercut shank. With an OAL of 4" or 6", and an undercut shank, you can go deep.
Example of an undercut extension tap:
www.mscdirect.com/product/details/87152146?rItem=87152146
GeoD
Once I wanted to grind off the mill scale from a sheet of metal with a red flap disc on the angle grinder. But it only polished it. :-) Some research with Dr. Google hinted to hydrochloric acid, which turned out to really work like a charm.
Agree Quinn re: round hole through round stock. Nerd alert!
Before I continue this video.. Chicago... you can get them in Chicago. Chicago has the largest Polish population other than Poland. Go to Chicago.
Quinn,
Another fantastic clip, love it.
An the Humour is fantastic, keep up the good work.
A suggestion for another clip, I see you using a magnifying glass from time too time.
How about making an “optical centre punch”?
Cheers Matt.
I just saw your catshead video, what size inserts does your boring bar take?
You had me at *"crazy looking hole"* !
great job keep them coming !
A cool tool to get really accurate punch marks on an existing mark is an optical center punch. Learned about it from Adam Savage on his Tested channel.
BTW, is that pierogi dumplings or pies? That is pretty interesting linguistical chaos on edge of Russian, Ukrainian and Polish language
Get an old spiral action hand drill (google or ask your grandad), add a small Chuck if needed, use with either internal or external demurring tool - lots easier than your two.
More than any other tool, any supply, or anything, the woodworker or machinists quest to find or build just "one more clamp" is never satisfied. Clamps are the perfect gift for "the woodworker who has everything".
For me to see a stairway maker's project is, I'll become socially awkward, forget myself, and then will need to be excused before I blather on like a bass-boater at a yacht club social.
have you ever used an optical center punch?
good video ,, if I may ask what do you do for work ,,, machinist doctor pilot ?????
So if I get the kit and I am in Texas, how can I even remotely enjoy the newspaper wrapping if its all written in Canadian?
@@ronwilken5219 Sorry Ron, my comment was an attempt at humor. I grew up in Michigan and when I was a young man I would make trips across the boarder often. Drinking age was lower on your side.
@@matthewcarpenter4716 I think Ron's reply was meant to be humor as well. Surly most Texans are literate. ;-)
Have you tried soaking hot rolled steel in vinegar for 24 hours Quinn? The millscale comes off easily with a wire brush! Alan from the UK.
Good tip! I have not tried that
Quinn, can these be done in a three jaw chuck? that the only one for now that I have for my new lathe and I don't know if the one for the older lathe will adapt to the new one?
If it repeats reasonably well when flipping parts, I think it could be, yah.
@@Blondihacks my new lathe only has 3thou. riun out at the chuck!
I see you are operating files on a regular basis. Any particular make you would recommend? Back in the day there was a Finnish company Viialan Viila Oy making some of the best files money could buy. They had some kind of secret tempering method making the files very sharp, grippy and long lasting. Sandvik bought the company in 1996 and in 1998 it was defunct. File manufacturing was transferred to Spain. Sandvik makes Bahco files, not sure if those are crap or not. I have one Viiala file, inherited from my late father. Perhaps I should frame it and put on a wall. Thank you for this gripping video. Stay healthy and keep up the good work!
My files are all Nicholson and I’ve found them to be excellent!
Ok, thanks for the tip! They seem to be available at my neck of the woods. Ordered a couple. One flat and another half round :)