This has to be one of the best, if not the best diy machine builds I’ve seen on UA-cam yet. Your use of the donor mill casting was a great idea. It retains the quill functionality to get your reciprocating motion (shaper motion) and you get the dampening properties of cast iron that all proper commercial machine tools are built from. Most diy machine tool builds I’ve seen are of the “built up” variety, with housings fabricated from steel plate and bolted together or a combination of bolted construction and weldments. The cast iron construction being more rigid and thus more ideal for machining. Can’t wait for part 2!!
Thanks! The only thing I'm slightly concerned about is that the rack and pinion gears on the quill are not that big and probably not designed for this type of use. That's why I used the shear pin. I'm probably being over cautious though and it will outlast all the use I'll ever need from it.
@@AndysMachines I agree. The rack and pinion gears will probably wear out first (after a LOT of gear cutting). Maybe a bell-crank arrangement at the top of the spindle driven from your new reciprocating arm could drive the spindle up and down directly?
Amazing man, most content creators would have stretched this into a 15 part series. I love the high-level overview that shows the most interesting parts of the process in your style of filming.
Absolutely fantastic! can't wait for part 2! I love that you are re-using/re-purposing old item to make a completely new machine- that in turn makes other parts for other machines- Brilliant!
That moment when you wanted to make internal gears for a while now - and have a spare milling head... Looks like another project for myself down the road. This is awesome! Thank you for sharing this!
Absolutely amazing work. I love seeing you take crappy chinesium machine tools and turn them into other machine tools with amazing precision. Can’t wait for part 2!
Simply the best. No other teacher, which he definitely is, can transmit so much information in such a precise and clear way. Learn from him and you will be a better machinist, his ideas for obtaining a very complicated process in a simple attainable way using available parts and new technology are outstanding. Congratulations 👏
Really neat stuff! One of the few channels I don't FF through at some point. Probably a combination of the overall length and not wasting a lot of time showing completely obvious disassembly in fast-motion. The subject matter is most important, of course, and I find this inspirational as I'm mostly an amateur hack machinist.
FINALLY !!!! I HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR SOMEOME TO TREPAN SOMETHING FOR YEARS! Incredible build and some amazing techniques. This really makes for an incredibly precise piece of equipment and endless possibilities well done!
Simply brilliant! Looking forward to the math involved to get it all to sync. Also hoping on more elaboration on inside gears, particularly, tooth profiles.
Best part is when he said "gimmie dat, gimmie dat" while building his monster. KEEP SPEED! Ok ok oh god I could say so much. But the transition from CNC spot drill to HAND DRILL really got me. 😅Pure genius.
I am so impressed with your designs !! 👌👍👍It is a pity that I do not have such knowledge in the field of CNC. 🤥Greetings from Poland Jestem pod wrażeniem twoich projektów !! Szkoda, że nie mam takiej wiedzy z zakresu CNC.
WOW! Your video production is always so well done. Your engineering and clever design ability (i.e. talent) is exemplary. This is not applicable to your implementation, but I turned a motor shaft down a few years back, on a new 3 phase motor I was fitting on my lathe. In my case a V-belt pulley. I didn't think about it at the time, but I left a sharp corner on the reduced shaft. Within 20 hours of running, the vibrations of the motor caused a crack to develop at that corner and the shaft with the pulley went rolling down the shop floor. Big lesson learned. Never thought that small vibration and radial load would do this on a 19mm shaft, at least not in my lifetime.
Love the fact you are sinking your teeth back into the whole gear topic. I believe its somewhat of a black art for most machinists s its great to learn about it.
Yes, I did think about doing something like that and other people have mentioned this too. But for now at least it's unlikely I'll need to change the stroke for the gears I want to make.
Thank you! You are such a great resource for all things "gears" ! Home shop engineering is so enjoyable. Thanks for all of your great videos! PS: Consider creating an email address and adding it to the "About" section of your UA-cam channel for direct communication. Regards.
I chose a stroke length to suit the type of gears I want to make, I probably won't need to change it, if I do the only way is to shorten or lengthen one of the lever arms.
Amazing transformation and very good machining 👍 Just a little upgrade tip add another stepper motor to bed horizontal movement you will get rack shaping machine too 🤑🤑
I usually make a broad plan to start, but it often evolves as I build it. Usually it's steered by the parts and materials I have available. You'll see in part 2 how the control system evolved.
So much garbage on youtube that gets millions of views. Content like this is why I watch youtube, I'm rooting for you that your channel will blow up big, you deserve it.
Backlash removal in the worm drive, are you minimising the clearance in the root of the teeth or offsetting the worm slightly? Just wondering if the backlash is removed in a reversible drive or if this only works in one direction of drive.
The teeth on the wormwheel are machined to have clearance in the root and the worm adjusted to be very close to have minimal backlash. Still, I only drive it in one direction.
Amazing work! Do you need to add extra lubrication for the quill and rack and pinion now they are constantly in motion? Looking forward to the next video. You'll be making a lot of gear trains when this is done!
Yes, I did make sure it was all well lubricated when I reassembled it. The quill is easy to lubricate in use, but the rack and pinion gears are not so easy to get to without pulling out the gear shaft.
great job andy!!! I'd love to know how much force it takes to cut a chip with that setup. I did a small experiment on a 9x30 lathe and it didn't seem rigid enough. Also, why not just drive the cut with your Z motor? Would it stall or were you just worried about ware?
Thanks! It's actually capable of applying a downward force on the cutter of around 6000N (~600Kg) in the middle of the stroke. This would possibly be enough to strip the quill gears but hopefully the shear pin would go first. I don't know how much force it actually takes to make a cut, but considerably less, even when cutting steel the motor doesn't appear to be under much load at all. Using the Z motor (Nema 34 stepper) would be much slower, have less force, and also there would be more backlash as when using the quill I lock the head to the column.
Technically speaking you can do away with form invole cutters.Cnc grind a perfect involute 1 tooth cutter from proper hss and still shape with it while indexing for all teeth to be cut.Away with expensive disc type shaper cutters.Damn your content makes me so excited.Having shapers myself i always wanted to see a setup like yours.Im very interested on the span measurements accuracy after you finished.
Yes, that method would be similar to using a regular gear cutter on a milling machine and indexing the blank, whereas the pinion cutter is more like cutting a gear with a hob. The pinion cutter is more complicated to make, but has the advantage that it will cut any number of teeth. The one-tooth cutter might be better for larger module sizes, as only one tooth is being cut producing less force on the cutter compared to multiple teeth being cut at once.
@@AndysMachines ja Yes!That idea you are moving to now is way more professional. It ticks a lot of boxes. One is practical setting up the gear for runout before starting. You only have to deal with one plane instead of milling which has three. Two, overall rigidity. Instead of cutting something on a abour you are cutting into the table. 3, by setting feed rate slower (more cuts per tooth) equal less force and better accuracy. 4, cutter runout becomes neglectable for generating with 1 tooth cutter. 5, you will always get close to perfect involute profile instead of form cutters that's involute is only correct for 1 count tooth for that specific range. That alone in itself is why one doesn't cut professional gears on milling machines. 6 form cutters involute profiles typically vary from standard generated gears so it's not a good idea to mesh milled gears with 99% of all gears found in a gearbox. 7. now you can start experimenting with complex internal generating profiles like internal square with almost no radius. You're making the gear cutters jealous now. Actually generating with a mill wow!!! Cant wait to see more
Nothing complicated, but quite time consuming. I just exported each frame one at a time from CAD software (an old version of TurboCAD) I'm sure there are better ways to do it.
Well, that sure looks a very handy tool was you a machinist by trade ? I've made clock gears in the past and found them very challenging with manual dividing heads would love a stepper motor dividing head like yours 👍
This has to be one of the best, if not the best diy machine builds I’ve seen on UA-cam yet. Your use of the donor mill casting was a great idea. It retains the quill functionality to get your reciprocating motion (shaper motion) and you get the dampening properties of cast iron that all proper commercial machine tools are built from. Most diy machine tool builds I’ve seen are of the “built up” variety, with housings fabricated from steel plate and bolted together or a combination of bolted construction and weldments. The cast iron construction being more rigid and thus more ideal for machining.
Can’t wait for part 2!!
Thanks! The only thing I'm slightly concerned about is that the rack and pinion gears on the quill are not that big and probably not designed for this type of use. That's why I used the shear pin. I'm probably being over cautious though and it will outlast all the use I'll ever need from it.
@@AndysMachines I agree. The rack and pinion gears will probably wear out first (after a LOT of gear cutting). Maybe a bell-crank arrangement at the top of the spindle driven from your new reciprocating arm could drive the spindle up and down directly?
@@chrisarmstrong8198 Good point. Not sure how the bellcrank would be fitted, but I was thinking of a piston. Could you elaborate?
Amazing man, most content creators would have stretched this into a 15 part series. I love the high-level overview that shows the most interesting parts of the process in your style of filming.
funny you said this. I could watch this all day. a 15 part series sounds fantastic :D. Andy always delivers!!! TIA, Greg
Absolutely fantastic! can't wait for part 2! I love that you are re-using/re-purposing old item to make a completely new machine- that in turn makes other parts for other machines- Brilliant!
That moment when you wanted to make internal gears for a while now - and have a spare milling head... Looks like another project for myself down the road.
This is awesome! Thank you for sharing this!
Very impressive, taking the old mill and converting it like this, so clever. I'm looking forward to part 2
Wow! So keen for the next one!
Your channel is awesome and extremely underrated.
Absolutely amazing work. I love seeing you take crappy chinesium machine tools and turn them into other machine tools with amazing precision. Can’t wait for part 2!
Simply the best. No other teacher, which he definitely is, can transmit so much information in such a precise and clear way. Learn from him and you will be a better machinist, his ideas for obtaining a very complicated process in a simple attainable way using available parts and new technology are outstanding. Congratulations 👏
What a great start to the weekend! Always a delight to see a new video.
BRAVO, Andy!
Really neat stuff! One of the few channels I don't FF through at some point. Probably a combination of the overall length and not wasting a lot of time showing completely obvious disassembly in fast-motion. The subject matter is most important, of course, and I find this inspirational as I'm mostly an amateur hack machinist.
Astonishing vision, design and execution. Well done on such a brilliant build. 👏👏👍😀
Fabulous project, fabulous work, and fabulous explanations. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Regards Mark in the UK
FINALLY !!!! I HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR SOMEOME TO TREPAN SOMETHING FOR YEARS!
Incredible build and some amazing techniques. This really makes for an incredibly precise piece of equipment and endless possibilities well done!
I love your videos so much. The effort, skill, and knowledge are immeasurable.
Absolutely amazing!!
You’re back! ❤
I never actually went anywhere, but time flies!
Very interesting project. Thoroughly enjoyed.
Now that is a LOT of work.
WOW... a very impressive build!!!
Can't wait!
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
You sir are a mechanical genius. I loved watching that!
Simply brilliant! Looking forward to the math involved to get it all to sync.
Also hoping on more elaboration on inside gears, particularly, tooth profiles.
Brilliant idea 👍👍
Fantastic work Andy, you certainly have a wide range of skills
Brilliant, enjoyed watching. Tony
Cool build Andy, looking forward to the rest of the series.
Cheers
This is excellent, cheers.
Wow , best explanations on gears ever , thank you 🙏
Very impressive! You do such well thought out projects.
Best part is when he said "gimmie dat, gimmie dat" while building his monster. KEEP SPEED! Ok ok oh god I could say so much. But the transition from CNC spot drill to HAND DRILL really got me. 😅Pure genius.
That is so cool. Once you have enough tools you can make so many other tools!
Legend !! Who would have ever thought about doing that !!
Excellent video!
Brilliant stuff :)
I am so impressed with your designs !! 👌👍👍It is a pity that I do not have such knowledge in the field of CNC. 🤥Greetings from Poland
Jestem pod wrażeniem twoich projektów !! Szkoda, że nie mam takiej wiedzy z zakresu CNC.
Thanks for sharing.
WOW! Your video production is always so well done. Your engineering and clever design ability (i.e. talent) is exemplary.
This is not applicable to your implementation, but I turned a motor shaft down a few years back, on a new 3 phase motor I was fitting on my lathe. In my case a V-belt pulley. I didn't think about it at the time, but I left a sharp corner on the reduced shaft. Within 20 hours of running, the vibrations of the motor caused a crack to develop at that corner and the shaft with the pulley went rolling down the shop floor. Big lesson learned. Never thought that small vibration and radial load would do this on a 19mm shaft, at least not in my lifetime.
impressive work
thank you for sharing your experience
Impressive!
Cheers and thanks for sharing Andy,, 🍻😎👍👍
Help me a lot. Thanx brother
I’m loving all the gear making videos, keep up the good work!
Spent most of a day researching how I was going to do this for the ring gear of a planetary setup last week... Then presto! Andy beat me to it. Kudos.
Your videos are very impressive, Thank You very much for sharing them.
Very Impressive! This 14 minute video must have taken 40 hours of real time to make.
Always exciting, interesting, educational and entertaining content that I eagerly look forward to watching. Thank you 👍👍😎👍👍.
Absolutely brilliant. I love it.
Interesting. Very nice work
This channel covers so many different topics I'm interested in, and I really have a limited interest in gears. Just became a patreon supporter.
Thanks, Andy! A new machine to obsess over! I happen to have an old XLO mill head….hmmm.
totally brilliant. Inspiring!
Just pure awesomeness
Your videos are amazing; thanks for making them! Cheers from across the pond.
Excellent work and video, thanks!
Great video! The only thing that I would change is to make the worm taper , but your system works good as well…keep up the good work!
hahaha, you got me with "The two, in no way fit together"
Love the fact you are sinking your teeth back into the whole gear topic. I believe its somewhat of a black art for most machinists s its great to learn about it.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing
Good idea
o yes!Dont forget the relief on up strokes!Somebody with your calibre can easily program that in.Cant wait to see Andy...
Part two? really. I hate suspense. Anyway, this just looks like another awesome build. Top notch build for a difficult challenge. Great jOB.
I love this
You are mad but genious !
Awesome!!! It’s like my maker Channels know I’ve been tooling up to make gears!
inspiring to say the least 👍
Thanks a lot!! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Great video, as usual. Are you still working on the T-800? I would really like to see that finished.
Thanks! Yes I am. In fact I need this machine to make some of the T-800's gears.
Good job c'est une idée géniale
I liked the oscillating link. Could make the crank arm length with a slot, to allow for different offset, and different length of stroke.?
Yes, I did think about doing something like that and other people have mentioned this too. But for now at least it's unlikely I'll need to change the stroke for the gears I want to make.
Thank you! You are such a great resource for all things "gears" ! Home shop engineering is so enjoyable. Thanks for all of your great videos! PS: Consider creating an email address and adding it to the "About" section of your UA-cam channel for direct communication. Regards.
Another fascinating build! No need for adjustment on the stroke length? Or does that add a level of complexity not warranted in this design?
I chose a stroke length to suit the type of gears I want to make, I probably won't need to change it, if I do the only way is to shorten or lengthen one of the lever arms.
Amazing transformation and very good machining 👍
Just a little upgrade tip add another stepper motor to bed horizontal movement you will get rack shaping machine too 🤑🤑
Технари друг друга всегда поймут. Шикарная работа!
Bold project Andy. Did you meticulously plan and design everything before you started or figure it out as you progressed?
I usually make a broad plan to start, but it often evolves as I build it. Usually it's steered by the parts and materials I have available. You'll see in part 2 how the control system evolved.
Awesome.
So much garbage on youtube that gets millions of views. Content like this is why I watch youtube, I'm rooting for you that your channel will blow up big, you deserve it.
Very cool upcycling
impressive it is my first time to see that 😍
Nice work 👏 💞💞🌺😘
Phenomenal.
Amazing!
But have to wait for part 2… 😬😉
Backlash removal in the worm drive, are you minimising the clearance in the root of the teeth or offsetting the worm slightly? Just wondering if the backlash is removed in a reversible drive or if this only works in one direction of drive.
The teeth on the wormwheel are machined to have clearance in the root and the worm adjusted to be very close to have minimal backlash. Still, I only drive it in one direction.
Brilliant.
Nicely done! Thinking outside to box here. 🤔
Amazing work! Do you need to add extra lubrication for the quill and rack and pinion now they are constantly in motion? Looking forward to the next video. You'll be making a lot of gear trains when this is done!
Yes, I did make sure it was all well lubricated when I reassembled it. The quill is easy to lubricate in use, but the rack and pinion gears are not so easy to get to without pulling out the gear shaft.
@@AndysMachines ah yeah. Maybe a little oil dripper above the pinion?
great job andy!!! I'd love to know how much force it takes to cut a chip with that setup. I did a small experiment on a 9x30 lathe and it didn't seem rigid enough. Also, why not just drive the cut with your Z motor? Would it stall or were you just worried about ware?
Thanks! It's actually capable of applying a downward force on the cutter of around 6000N (~600Kg) in the middle of the stroke. This would possibly be enough to strip the quill gears but hopefully the shear pin would go first. I don't know how much force it actually takes to make a cut, but considerably less, even when cutting steel the motor doesn't appear to be under much load at all. Using the Z motor (Nema 34 stepper) would be much slower, have less force, and also there would be more backlash as when using the quill I lock the head to the column.
cool amazing skill
Technically speaking you can do away with form invole cutters.Cnc grind a perfect involute 1 tooth cutter from proper hss and still shape with it while indexing for all teeth to be cut.Away with expensive disc type shaper cutters.Damn your content makes me so excited.Having shapers myself i always wanted to see a setup like yours.Im very interested on the span measurements accuracy after you finished.
Yes, that method would be similar to using a regular gear cutter on a milling machine and indexing the blank, whereas the pinion cutter is more like cutting a gear with a hob. The pinion cutter is more complicated to make, but has the advantage that it will cut any number of teeth. The one-tooth cutter might be better for larger module sizes, as only one tooth is being cut producing less force on the cutter compared to multiple teeth being cut at once.
@@AndysMachines ja
Yes!That idea you are moving to now is way more professional. It ticks a lot of boxes. One is practical setting up the gear for runout before starting. You only have to deal with one plane instead of milling which has three. Two, overall rigidity. Instead of cutting something on a abour you are cutting into the table. 3, by setting feed rate slower (more cuts per tooth) equal less force and better accuracy. 4, cutter runout becomes neglectable for generating with 1 tooth cutter. 5, you will always get close to perfect involute profile instead of form cutters that's involute is only correct for 1 count tooth for that specific range. That alone in itself is why one doesn't cut professional gears on milling machines. 6 form cutters involute profiles typically vary from standard generated gears so it's not a good idea to mesh milled gears with 99% of all gears found in a gearbox. 7. now you can start experimenting with complex internal generating profiles like internal square with almost no radius. You're making the gear cutters jealous now. Actually generating with a mill wow!!! Cant wait to see more
I have made and generated with single point cutters if you are interested to see how good the results are? Its totally worth it for various reasons.
Awesome project! Curious what software or how you made those animations at 3:43?
Nothing complicated, but quite time consuming. I just exported each frame one at a time from CAD software (an old version of TurboCAD) I'm sure there are better ways to do it.
Spectacular! That has money maker written all over it! ;)
I have made a planetary gear set 8mm. Tick using a a laser cnc cutter and it's working perfecly
Awesome build. When I do projects they keep getting interrupted by 100 other tasks and months later my project may get completed😊
I'd be interested in power skiving, I'm doing quite some gear hobbing myself.
Cool
The information I wasn't aware of is the blank also rotates with cutter
Great content! New subber too.
You might want to redesign the upper crank for the linear motion with a slot so you can adjust the stroke...
😐🇬🇧
Very nice. See you in Part2D2. :)
Well, that sure looks a very handy tool was you a machinist by trade ? I've made clock gears in the past and found them very challenging with manual dividing heads would love a stepper motor dividing head like yours 👍