Wow, opened my eyes on how to do things the right way. Always thought miracle grow was the way to go, but my plants never really looked go. I'm gonna start using these tips. Thanks for posting
This is such an informative and generous video. So succinct. I use your products but for those outside the US this is great. Also enjoy learning what is in your products and how everything works together to create nutritious vegetables.
Thank you for sharing all of this comprehensive information to improve my clay soil. I really enjoyed the down to earth break down of each product needed and how it affects and nourishes the soil/earth. Now to decide what I need to do for my soil and get ready for fall! It is too stinking hot to do anything outside right now.
A general can't miss is apply our "Blend" at 15-20lbs per 1,000sqft and then spray right over the top of that with 8oz per 1,000sqft of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. Thank you for your interest! - John& Bob's
This video has informed me more than anything I've read on the internet on this subject. I'm trying to do a border planting but my house is built on top of a bunch of added clay for whatever reason ruining the perfect soil under it. Thank you, a lot.
We are SO glad to lend a helping hand in this way, we're sure that you can remedy your clay soil in no time. Good luck on your next planting venture! 🌱💚
You're welcome and thank you for the kind words, Nick! We fully believe in our products but also believe in sharing our knowledge of organic gardening & organic products :)
Although I theoretically could save money by doing things the way you described, I'll be buying your product instead (or maybe too!) Thanks for being so generous with great information!
@JohnandBobs slightly confused... in a more recent vid you said synthetic fertile does NOT damage soil in this video you said don't use synthetics as it can damage soil life. I use a synthetic fert after winter/snow etc once at beggining of year since our growing season is so short. Will your products not work with a synthetics. Other video said it's fine in moderation. Thanks
Very enlightening! I feel like at 5 semesters of college credit and how to keep turfgrass alive. In this drought of 2023 in the Chicagoland area I've been going bored or organic fertilizers. It is not going to be a tremendous extra cost cuz I'm only caretaking for about 850 square feet of turf grass. Consider the waste of the extra fertilizer that only comes in 5,000 square feet bags when the urea nitrigen, no matter how many times I roll the top of the bag try to keep the air out, seems to volatize away into the atmosphere. I immediately water in big-box store urea notogen after every application. If I just do not see a good enough response except from the Scott's step 1 which is combined with Crabgrass watch the fertilizer ages more than one season. Intend on doing Kentucky bluegrass --bugs-- plugs* cuz I can't get any high-quality stock from where I'm at. I shall keep this video in mind when planting the plugs.
Subscribed! Great video. Perfect timing that I found this... we were just about to post some new video series following our food forest experience. We have clay soil. Your videos are great.
Aeration is really effective if you have thatch. If your lawn does not suffer from a thatch build up, then aeration is not effective. Aeration does not help at all to try to mitigate hard soil. It is only really effective on thatch build up. For hard soil we recommend our Blend, Nourish-Biosol and Penetrate Liquid Biotiller.
Very good video but there are some things which weren't explored. Azomite like all rock powders doesn't really add up all that much plant available minerals, but yes, powdered rock does make the process of leaching minerals from rocks easier (yet it can still take a while) Also - it's not like synthetic fertilizers DO DAMAGE to soil life just by applying it. There's nothing in there to do it (at least not in that concentration). Those fertilizers just doesn't contribute (much) to soil life. Those are (mostly) inorganic and plant available substances. Manure does add up significant amount of urea which is CO(NH2)2 - that is exactly the same thing as synthetic urea. Everything else that has to decompose first also at the last stage is mineralized so turned into inorganic matter plant-available like calcium, nitrogen-oxide ions, sulfur-oxide ions etc. etc. By adding synthetic, mineral fertilizer you just throw that decomposing process out of the window and give no nourishment to all organisms participating in that. Should they get no organic to decompose at all they'll die, but as long as they get some they will do their job regardless of whether you add synthetic fertilizers or not. Sure, it would be the best to have much more organic matter so all beneficial microorganisms would thrive there and decompose organic matter faster but at the moment it only works on relative small permaculture or "eco-friendly" farms which aren't oriented on biggest possible production volume per acre.
I found your video on how to soften clay soil. My clay soil is so hard; that even large tillers can't break it! So, do I just take you "penetrate" additives and worm castings and put on top of the soil and then water them in good? Is it that simple?
It is pretty simple, but it's not immediate. Your soil will gradually change with some noticeable improvement after 2-4 months by infusing it with beneficial soil life, food for life and attractants for life. That is the only way to change your hard soil; put the Soil Food Web to work. Our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller; Nourish-Biosol, Soil Optimizer & Maximize (available already mixed as Blend) will continue to work over time with every 6 month applications.
hello, can you add this to newly seeded clover seeds? they are currently germinating but i noticed it is very hard clay soil and would like to apply this. please let me know so i can purchase and help my lawn :)
I believe you are asking about the fungal and bacterial cultures that are used to produce the blooms (mycelium) from which our Nourish Biosol is made. We only sell the 6-1-1 dried mycelium which is 3rd party certified as non GMO and organic - so no Roundup and no glyphosate.
I'm interested in the Horizon Ag Humic Acid for my lawn (10,000 sq. ft.) but can't find where to buy it? I live in St. Louis, Missouri. Any help would be appreciated!
Our "Optimize" is a high quality humic acid product, along with fulvic acid and the other beneficial compounds that accompany humic. 1-42lb bag will be sufficient for your area and you can order from www.johnandbobs.com
@@JohnandBobs Thank you John. I also watched your video on fungus. I get brown patch and dollar spot every year. Will your Optimize work for that as well? I'm so tired of putting in the hard work and get hit with the fungus. I see all my work go right out the door. Very frustrating! How often would you recommend me to put down the Optimize? I aerate and re-seed in fall. Lastly, do you have a yearly Organic program for tall fescue in the transition zone?
@@TMF-8400 Optimize will eventually work for fungal disease on cool season turf. However, you can get faster and more comprehensive results with generous applications of our Blend, which has Optimize in it along with Maximize and Nourish-Biosol. I would recommend applying 25lbs per 1,000 sq ft 3 times - early Spring, late Spring or early Summer and then again mid to late Summer. Also, monitor your watering closely - enough, but try not to apply more than enough.
@@TMF-8400 One of the major improvements I made to keep the lawn from melting-out fungus or fusarium-blight fungus is not to water everyday. Keep the watering at least 48 hours apart. However, would you do water, throw-on at least a half of an inch. In humid St Louis, I would also water while the morning dew is still on the grass so that way the grass can dry out as best it can the rest of the day.
You can use one product at a time or use them altogether at the same time if you want fastest possible and most comprehensive results. Over time you will achieve a significant improvement/increase in beneficial microbial soil life. -John
I am loving your videos! John, your voice, your dementor, and all the information you get right into make you a pleasure to watch! I’m so glad I found you, but was afraid at first that your info wouldn’t apply to me, since I live in Texas, zone 8. Boy, was I wrong! This information is universal, and couldn’t come at a better time. I am creating a shade garden out of part of my property since I have an almost complete canopy from oak trees in the summer. I can’t grow grass in this area, and I need to amend my very heavy clay soil. I now have all the hardscape in; flagstone steps that wind around and separate small sections into little gardens, along with a small sitting area. To amend the soil before the spring planting time, should I till in your Maximize? Do you recommend anything else? I have a liquid root booster - Humic/fulvic (that I’m really unsure how to use, but sounded good when I bought it!) Should I use that as well? How about your compost? I watched your video about compost & was so thankful for that info also ~ that all I need is a small amount to get the soil active & provide the right environment for all the beneficial bacteria & nutrients. Sorry to be so long. Any advice or recommendations would be so appreciated!! Congrats on your channel! It’s a winner! 🌟
Terry, Thank you very much for your positive feedback! :) We love hearing from viewers of our videos and it's great to know our information is useful. Tilling before Spring planting is good if your soil is compacted and/or hard. I recommend you till or rip first and then apply our Blend at about 20 to 25lbs per 1,000 sq ft. to the surface. In the course of raking the area smooth you will incorporate our Blend into the top inch or so of your tilled soil. This will allow the product to work more powerfully than if you tilled the Blend in. Your humic/fulvic root booster sounds good. If it's liquid, it's probably similar to our Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. If it is liquid, I recommend you spray it over the soil and plants once everything is installed and fine graded. Compost is in our Blend, so you will be including compost if you make a nice generous application of John&Bob's Blend. The other thing to consider is a layer of top dressing mulch (at least an inch) once your area is complete so that bare soil is not impacted by sun and other elements. You should look for something suitable in your area. Shredded cedar works well or a high quality green waste compost. Let us know whenever you have questions and please spread the word to your friends/family that you think would be benefited by our UA-cam channel. Best Regards!
Been gardening a long time and was unaware of some of these nutrients! You have a good knowledge of chemistry/ mineral components. The opening intro is awkward with your 'football carry' method of holding the little doggie while you wag ( and point ! your finger at us viewers(!) ??Please review it and see if that is the visual you want to give your audience.
Excellent suggestion! We will add it to our video list. To get you started now, however, general recommendations are to maximize light and air circulation by thinning/removing tree and shrub plantings.
Some of these things can get very expensive. I would get a soil test before buying some of these things like the Azomite, or any that are expensive. Organic matter like cow poo and wood chips can be free sources of organic matter for your soil. I've been watching lots of videos about how to improve drainage and tilth in clay soil, and wood chips and cow poo rated #1 and #2 for actually improving the drainage and crop growth for that persons plants. Of course IF your soil test tells you that you need Azomite, or any fancy humic acid stuff, buy it of course. I've actually bought lots of the stuff mentioned to use in potting soil mixes. But, if you will be using it on big areas, it can get VERY expensive. I do think that worm poo is a good soil amendment too. I am NOT a soil pro at all. I am just going by what I've seen on a few videos by people who have spent some time trying to see what soil amendments work best. "Growfully with Jenna" was 1 of them. And, without a soil test, we could be adding some things that cost a good bit of money, but we don't actually NEED them. I had added kelp to a plant years ago, and the plant turned yellow and died. Maybe it would be best added to compost and then the compost would be okay? I'm no soil scientist, BUT, some of these soil amendments have the same soil nutrients as another amendment has, so, I doubt we need them all. Many years ago, people added manures to soil, and it seemed to enrich the soil enough to grow crops to eat, without having to buy all of these fancy new fertilizers. Maybe SOME soils DO need all of these micro nutrients, especially if these soils are where the "dust bowl" had taken place at. I can only guess that had been in the midwest. Kansas, and some surrounding places? I'm not saying that the guy in this video is wrong about how SOME soils do need the stuff he is selling. I'm just saying that MANY people might NOT need all of this stuff. Test your soil. If not by those cheapo tests at big box stores, most colleges have an agriculture branch where you can send them some soil samples, and they will test them for whatever you tell them to test for. They'll ask what you plan to plant in that soil, and they'll tell you what your soil needs to grow that crop. You can even be sorta vague about it, and they'll suggest what your soil needs, and all kinds of information that you can use to determine IF you really need some nutrients. And, if your clay soil is "sodic" or kinda salty, Gypsum will work better in it than if it is not salty. I'm sure this guys products are great IF you need them, but, if not, they can be pricey additives that you don't need.
Many good points here. One overlooked key factor is standard soil tests, while helpful, don't measure what we think is the most important determinant of healthy soil---microbiological soil life. We believe soil life trumps almost everything in traditional soil tests. We're promoting and educating about a completely different way to garden. We call it soil based gardening!
@@JohnandBobs I agree with you. I just mean that not everybody can afford to buy all kinds of stuff for the garden, and that manures and wood chips can be a cheap or free source of organic matter, and that will help build humus in the soil. I know you are selling a product here, but, sometimes free or cheap is better. Really, I should not have posted here. it kinda is like a slap in your face to tell people to get manure and wood chips when you are selling your product here. Maybe your stuff works better though. I don't know.
I've watched several of your videos and the worst part about your videos is you don't provide any links in the description to the products you talk about. I know some are your own products on your website, but even then I have to go there and search around and trying to figure out what one you were talking about.
We provide multiple links to our website, but you are right, we do not have specific links to each individual product mentioned. We will work on providing more direct links in future videos and adding in links to other products we mention. We appreciate your input and thank you for watching :)
I used to have spurge between sidewalk slabs. These are two examples of plants that can grow in concrete. I just pulled a thorny thistle from a drainage tile of three-quarter inch washed rock yesterday;there was no soil for at least four in town from where it sprouted. Literally was growing in washed gravel.
Hi found ur vids recently. I gravitate to ur advise bc i live in vegas n our soil is hard rock clay soil here. This vid explains good info however are talking to use all the soil enhancers on both garden plant shrubs trees flowers n as well which is important to me is turf lawn? I believe so it could b use on plants trees lawns etc. I plan to buy ur products soon when im done with the products i have on hand. Thx for ur vids. 😊👍🏼😊
I always say our products are important and useful for everything that prefers healthy soil. There aren't many plants that prefer bad soil, although some tolerate it. Yes, flowers, shrubs, trees, lawn, vegetables everything in your Las Vegas soil will perform best in soil full of life.
This information was very generous of you to post. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! 💚
Wow, opened my eyes on how to do things the right way. Always thought miracle grow was the way to go, but my plants never really looked go. I'm gonna start using these tips. Thanks for posting
We are so happy you learned some new tricks, let us know how these changes effect your plants 💚 Thanks for watching
You should be calling as a soil scientist. Thanks a lot ❤
This is such an informative and generous video. So succinct. I use your products but for those outside the US this is great. Also enjoy learning what is in your products and how everything works together to create nutritious vegetables.
Thank you very much for your kind comment. Happy gardening! 🌱💚
Very helpful tips! I like the way the info is broken down is such an easy to understand way 🌱
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment :)
@JohnandBobs how much worm castings do you recommend on 2500 sqf of lawn for canadian climate . For general health.
Thank you for sharing all of this comprehensive information to improve my clay soil. I really enjoyed the down to earth break down of each product needed and how it affects and nourishes the soil/earth. Now to decide what I need to do for my soil and get ready for fall! It is too stinking hot to do anything outside right now.
A general can't miss is apply our "Blend" at 15-20lbs per 1,000sqft and then spray right over the top of that with 8oz per 1,000sqft of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. Thank you for your interest! - John& Bob's
This is one of my favorite videos. Well explained and so important to feed that soil!
We are so glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for the comment 💚😊
Excellent video! Thank you!
We’re happy to be helpful! 🌱🥹
This video has informed me more than anything I've read on the internet on this subject. I'm trying to do a border planting but my house is built on top of a bunch of added clay for whatever reason ruining the perfect soil under it. Thank you, a lot.
We are SO glad to lend a helping hand in this way, we're sure that you can remedy your clay soil in no time. Good luck on your next planting venture! 🌱💚
Great advice, thank you.
We're glad to be helpful! Thank you for your kind comment. 🤗
I've seen a few of your videos, thank you for helping me figure out gardening.
Thanks for watching! We are so happy to hear that we have helped you with your gardening :) Happy Holidays
Love these videos. They offer awesome advice even if you are advertising your products. Thank you!
You're welcome and thank you for the kind words, Nick! We fully believe in our products but also believe in sharing our knowledge of organic gardening & organic products :)
Although I theoretically could save money by doing things the way you described, I'll be buying your product instead (or maybe too!) Thanks for being so generous with great information!
Glad you found it helpful! Our intention with this video was to help people who don't have access to our products (we currently only sell in the US)
@JohnandBobs slightly confused... in a more recent vid you said synthetic fertile does NOT damage soil in this video you said don't use synthetics as it can damage soil life.
I use a synthetic fert after winter/snow etc once at beggining of year since our growing season is so short. Will your products not work with a synthetics. Other video said it's fine in moderation. Thanks
Very enlightening!
I feel like at 5 semesters of college credit and how to keep turfgrass alive.
In this drought of 2023 in the Chicagoland area I've been going bored or organic fertilizers. It is not going to be a tremendous extra cost cuz I'm only caretaking for about 850 square feet of turf grass.
Consider the waste of the extra fertilizer that only comes in 5,000 square feet bags when the urea nitrigen, no matter how many times I roll the top of the bag try to keep the air out, seems to volatize away into the atmosphere. I immediately water in big-box store urea notogen after every application. If I just do not see a good enough response except from the Scott's step 1 which is combined with Crabgrass watch the fertilizer ages more than one season.
Intend on doing Kentucky bluegrass --bugs-- plugs* cuz I can't get any high-quality stock from where I'm at. I shall keep this video in mind when planting the plugs.
Great! We are glad these videos are helpful! -John
Excellent info and on point too
Glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching 😀
Subscribed! Great video. Perfect timing that I found this... we were just about to post some new video series following our food forest experience. We have clay soil. Your videos are great.
Woo! 🙌🙌 Welcome to the J&B fam 💚 I will have to check out some of your videos today!
Great info! Much appreciated.. would you recommend aeration before applying this to the lawn? Or is aeration unnecessary? Or either? Thanks!
Aeration is really effective if you have thatch. If your lawn does not suffer from a thatch build up, then aeration is not effective. Aeration does not help at all to try to mitigate hard soil. It is only really effective on thatch build up. For hard soil we recommend our Blend, Nourish-Biosol and Penetrate Liquid Biotiller.
@@JohnandBobs ok I have a big patch of my lawn that’s just packed dirt with a few weeds… no thatch at all
@@JohnandBobs I looked at the products…. Thanks so much, I’m very interested
Very good video but there are some things which weren't explored. Azomite like all rock powders doesn't really add up all that much plant available minerals, but yes, powdered rock does make the process of leaching minerals from rocks easier (yet it can still take a while)
Also - it's not like synthetic fertilizers DO DAMAGE to soil life just by applying it. There's nothing in there to do it (at least not in that concentration). Those fertilizers just doesn't contribute (much) to soil life. Those are (mostly) inorganic and plant available substances. Manure does add up significant amount of urea which is CO(NH2)2 - that is exactly the same thing as synthetic urea.
Everything else that has to decompose first also at the last stage is mineralized so turned into inorganic matter plant-available like calcium, nitrogen-oxide ions, sulfur-oxide ions etc. etc. By adding synthetic, mineral fertilizer you just throw that decomposing process out of the window and give no nourishment to all organisms participating in that. Should they get no organic to decompose at all they'll die, but as long as they get some they will do their job regardless of whether you add synthetic fertilizers or not. Sure, it would be the best to have much more organic matter so all beneficial microorganisms would thrive there and decompose organic matter faster but at the moment it only works on relative small permaculture or "eco-friendly" farms which aren't oriented on biggest possible production volume per acre.
You've got it right! 💚🪱🌻
I found your video on how to soften clay soil. My clay soil is so hard; that even large tillers can't break it! So, do I just take you "penetrate" additives and worm castings and put on top of the soil and then water them in good? Is it that simple?
It is pretty simple, but it's not immediate. Your soil will gradually change with some noticeable improvement after 2-4 months by infusing it with beneficial soil life, food for life and attractants for life. That is the only way to change your hard soil; put the Soil Food Web to work. Our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller; Nourish-Biosol, Soil Optimizer & Maximize (available already mixed as Blend) will continue to work over time with every 6 month applications.
If you were to mix these all together, what are the proportions per plant?
Watering activates Blend. Does it also help Penetrate? I hope it does not cause dilution.
Yes, Water activates Penetrate Liquid Biotiller and carries it into the soil profile. 😊
@@JohnandBobs Thanks 😊. I don't think Superthrive is potent enough to harm Blend or Penetrate.
@@eijiroinouye4115 No harm at all with superthrive. It's complementary to our products.
hello, can you add this to newly seeded clover seeds? they are currently germinating but i noticed it is very hard clay soil and would like to apply this. please let me know so i can purchase and help my lawn :)
Yes, our products are excellent applied on seeds or on germinating seeds.
Do you use lime in the soil?
Only use limestone if your pH is low and you want to raise it. For a pH of 5 or below, it's good to use lime!
-J&B's
How much round up would you expect to be in the soy been
I believe you are asking about the fungal and bacterial cultures that are used to produce the blooms (mycelium) from which our Nourish Biosol is made. We only sell the 6-1-1 dried mycelium which is 3rd party certified as non GMO and organic - so no Roundup and no glyphosate.
I'm interested in the Horizon Ag Humic Acid for my lawn (10,000 sq. ft.) but can't find where to buy it? I live in St. Louis, Missouri. Any help would be appreciated!
Our "Optimize" is a high quality humic acid product, along with fulvic acid and the other beneficial compounds that accompany humic. 1-42lb bag will be sufficient for your area and you can order from www.johnandbobs.com
@@JohnandBobs Thank you John. I also watched your video on fungus. I get brown patch and dollar spot every year. Will your Optimize work for that as well? I'm so tired of putting in the hard work and get hit with the fungus. I see all my work go right out the door. Very frustrating!
How often would you recommend me to put down the Optimize? I aerate and re-seed in fall. Lastly, do you have a yearly Organic program for tall fescue in the transition zone?
@@TMF-8400 Optimize will eventually work for fungal disease on cool season turf. However, you can get faster and more comprehensive results with generous applications of our Blend, which has Optimize in it along with Maximize and Nourish-Biosol. I would recommend applying 25lbs per 1,000 sq ft 3 times - early Spring, late Spring or early Summer and then again mid to late Summer. Also, monitor your watering closely - enough, but try not to apply more than enough.
@@TMF-8400
One of the major improvements I made to keep the lawn from melting-out fungus or fusarium-blight fungus is not to water everyday. Keep the watering at least 48 hours apart. However, would you do water, throw-on at least a half of an inch.
In humid St Louis, I would also water while the morning dew is still on the grass so that way the grass can dry out as best it can the rest of the day.
@@michaeldunagan8268 Thank you for the advice! Much appreciated!
You don't use all these products at one time ? Which on do you start off with ? Would like to build up the micro organisms in my soil .
You can use one product at a time or use them altogether at the same time if you want fastest possible and most comprehensive results. Over time you will achieve a significant improvement/increase in beneficial microbial soil life. -John
I am loving your videos! John, your voice, your dementor, and all the information you get right into make you a pleasure to watch! I’m so glad I found you, but was afraid at first that your info wouldn’t apply to me, since I live in Texas, zone 8. Boy, was I wrong! This information is universal, and couldn’t come at a better time. I am creating a shade garden out of part of my property since I have an almost complete canopy from oak trees in the summer. I can’t grow grass in this area, and I need to amend my very heavy clay soil. I now have all the hardscape in; flagstone steps that wind around and separate small sections into little gardens, along with a small sitting area.
To amend the soil before the spring planting time, should I till in your Maximize? Do you recommend anything else? I have a liquid root booster - Humic/fulvic (that I’m really unsure how to use, but sounded good when I bought it!) Should I use that as well? How about your compost? I watched your video about compost & was so thankful for that info also ~ that all I need is a small amount to get the soil active & provide the right environment for all the beneficial bacteria & nutrients. Sorry to be so long. Any advice or recommendations would be so appreciated!!
Congrats on your channel! It’s a winner! 🌟
Terry, Thank you very much for your positive feedback! :) We love hearing from viewers of our videos and it's great to know our information is useful. Tilling before Spring planting is good if your soil is compacted and/or hard. I recommend you till or rip first and then apply our Blend at about 20 to 25lbs per 1,000 sq ft. to the surface. In the course of raking the area smooth you will incorporate our Blend into the top inch or so of your tilled soil. This will allow the product to work more powerfully than if you tilled the Blend in. Your humic/fulvic root booster sounds good. If it's liquid, it's probably similar to our Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. If it is liquid, I recommend you spray it over the soil and plants once everything is installed and fine graded. Compost is in our Blend, so you will be including compost if you make a nice generous application of John&Bob's Blend. The other thing to consider is a layer of top dressing mulch (at least an inch) once your area is complete so that bare soil is not impacted by sun and other elements. You should look for something suitable in your area. Shredded cedar works well or a high quality green waste compost. Let us know whenever you have questions and please spread the word to your friends/family that you think would be benefited by our UA-cam channel. Best Regards!
I'm sure these are many good things, but at the cost for large garden I might as well buy the veggies.
3lbs of our Optimize treats 1,000sqft (that's a really big veg garden) for about $21. Very reasonable price, effective and very easy to use! - J&B's
Been gardening a long time and was unaware of some of these nutrients! You have a good knowledge of chemistry/ mineral components. The opening intro is awkward with your 'football carry' method of holding the little doggie while you wag ( and point ! your finger at us viewers(!) ??Please review it and see if that is the visual you want to give your audience.
We will review. Thank you for your input!
How can I get rid of moss
Excellent suggestion! We will add it to our video list. To get you started now, however, general recommendations are to maximize light and air circulation by thinning/removing tree and shrub plantings.
Some of these things can get very expensive. I would get a soil test before buying some of these things like the Azomite, or any that are expensive. Organic matter like cow poo and wood chips can be free sources of organic matter for your soil. I've been watching lots of videos about how to improve drainage and tilth in clay soil, and wood chips and cow poo rated #1 and #2 for actually improving the drainage and crop growth for that persons plants.
Of course IF your soil test tells you that you need Azomite, or any fancy humic acid stuff, buy it of course. I've actually bought lots of the stuff mentioned to use in potting soil mixes.
But, if you will be using it on big areas, it can get VERY expensive. I do think that worm poo is a good soil amendment too.
I am NOT a soil pro at all. I am just going by what I've seen on a few videos by people who have spent some time trying to see what soil amendments work best. "Growfully with Jenna" was 1 of them. And, without a soil test, we could be adding some things that cost a good bit of money, but we don't actually NEED them. I had added kelp to a plant years ago, and the plant turned yellow and died. Maybe it would be best added to compost and then the compost would be okay? I'm no soil scientist, BUT, some of these soil amendments have the same soil nutrients as another amendment has, so, I doubt we need them all.
Many years ago, people added manures to soil, and it seemed to enrich the soil enough to grow crops to eat, without having to buy all of these fancy new fertilizers. Maybe SOME soils DO need all of these micro nutrients, especially if these soils are where the "dust bowl" had taken place at. I can only guess that had been in the midwest. Kansas, and some surrounding places? I'm not saying that the guy in this video is wrong about how SOME soils do need the stuff he is selling. I'm just saying that MANY people might NOT need all of this stuff. Test your soil. If not by those cheapo tests at big box stores, most colleges have an agriculture branch where you can send them some soil samples, and they will test them for whatever you tell them to test for. They'll ask what you plan to plant in that soil, and they'll tell you what your soil needs to grow that crop. You can even be sorta vague about it, and they'll suggest what your soil needs, and all kinds of information that you can use to determine IF you really need some nutrients. And, if your clay soil is "sodic" or kinda salty, Gypsum will work better in it than if it is not salty.
I'm sure this guys products are great IF you need them, but, if not, they can be pricey additives that you don't need.
Many good points here. One overlooked key factor is standard soil tests, while helpful, don't measure what we think is the most important determinant of healthy soil---microbiological soil life. We believe soil life trumps almost everything in traditional soil tests. We're promoting and educating about a completely different way to garden. We call it soil based gardening!
@@JohnandBobs I agree with you. I just mean that not everybody can afford to buy all kinds of stuff for the garden, and that manures and wood chips can be a cheap or free source of organic matter, and that will help build humus in the soil.
I know you are selling a product here, but, sometimes free or cheap is better. Really, I should not have posted here. it kinda is like a slap in your face to tell people to get manure and wood chips when you are selling your product here. Maybe your stuff works better though. I don't know.
I've watched several of your videos and the worst part about your videos is you don't provide any links in the description to the products you talk about. I know some are your own products on your website, but even then I have to go there and search around and trying to figure out what one you were talking about.
We provide multiple links to our website, but you are right, we do not have specific links to each individual product mentioned. We will work on providing more direct links in future videos and adding in links to other products we mention. We appreciate your input and thank you for watching :)
I used to have spurge between sidewalk slabs. These are two examples of plants that can grow in concrete. I just pulled a thorny thistle from a drainage tile of three-quarter inch washed rock yesterday;there was no soil for at least four in town from where it sprouted. Literally was growing in washed gravel.
Hi found ur vids recently. I gravitate to ur advise bc i live in vegas n our soil is hard rock clay soil here.
This vid explains good info however are talking to use all the soil enhancers on both garden plant shrubs trees flowers n as well which is important to me is turf lawn? I believe so it could b use on plants trees lawns etc.
I plan to buy ur products soon when im done with the products i have on hand.
Thx for ur vids. 😊👍🏼😊
I always say our products are important and useful for everything that prefers healthy soil. There aren't many plants that prefer bad soil, although some tolerate it. Yes, flowers, shrubs, trees, lawn, vegetables everything in your Las Vegas soil will perform best in soil full of life.