How Much Should You Run Your Pool Pump?
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2020
- From www.swimmingpoo... - When filtering your swimming pool you should make sure you filter it three times daily. If you have filtered it less than three times daily then you have not filtered all of your pool water. This means that you will have to use more chlorine to make up for the fact that you did not filter all of your water.
#poolpump #cleanpool #poolmaintenance #filtrationschedule #swimmingpool - Навчання та стиль
In this example pool (12x24) with a salt system, what would the best schedule for VSP pump. Hours at 3,000 - 2,000 and 1,000 rpm? Assuming running for 24 hours per day
Where are you getting your 3 turnover standard from?? Back in cpo school, long ago lol, it was one turnover per day. Two turnovers for commercial. Just wondering where you got that metric from??
im building a pool 12500 gallons and they are instaling a 2.7 hp VS pump , they are telling me its more efficient to have a bigger pump and dialing back on the power then having a smaller pump running at higher speeds, what do you think ?
Wait 3+ turnovers? Unless your pool is in the middle of the sahara desert why would you need 3 turnovers. I though the basic idea of pumping water through a filter was to remove general contaminants that fall onto the water e.g leaves, bugs, dust etc. Are 3 turnovers meant to sanitize 95%+ of the pool water? What’s the point of adding chlorine then? I mean I would understand 3+ turnovers maybe in a commercial setting like at a water park or something with tons of people contaminating the water with their body juices but in a residential pool is 3 turnovers really necessary?
No 3 turnovers is not necessary. You can do less and the water will most likely remain clear unless the rest of the water chemistry is poor. Of note you would however have an increased rate of chlorine consumption. This is the what happens when you filter less, you need chemicals more. Every piece of bacteria and organic debris that you are able to remove from the water via mechanical filtration is one less piece that needs to be oxidized and sanitized by the chemicals in your pool This is how people with very short daily filtration schedules "get away" with filtering so little. They make up for it by using far more chemicals in their water than they could be with a proper filtration schedule. And to your question, what is the point of adding chlorine then? The answer, 4 things, but one of them is really really important and that is the ability to hold a residual value in the water. It is also an algicide, a sanitizer and an oxidizer, but the ability to hold a reserve value in wait is the residual protection that is missing from any system that works only as the water passes through it (like a UV light for example). These work great, but only in the moment that water passes through them and that means swimmers are not protected from anything in the pool, or eachother, unless there is some sort of residual chemical sanitizer in the water, aka chlorine. And if you think for a second that this is all overkill, just remember that dirty water is responsible for more human death annually than ANY other cause. Chlorine gets a bad reputation from being trying to be healthy, but that is a dangerous game to play. Some reading which would be good from this point if this interests you www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/chlorine-free.html
Thanks for the videos. Question though man, noticed you said 2.2kw/h but your meter shows 11.3kw/h at the bottom of the screen. 1.79 a day seems cheap to run a pump at that rpm for 6+ hours. You sure that’s the right numbers in your calc?
I’m asking because I have a VSF I’m trying to figure out the cost of running throughout the day on a similar size pool as your demo.
That bottom number is cumulative total kWh
So does temperature not matter anymore? They used to say 1 hour for every ten degrees. So as long as I turn it over 3 times I should be good?
If you turn over 3x per day then you should be looking good. The typical approach involving increasing hours with temperature is based on the starting point of perhaps 1 turnover. So you starting with 3 is miles ahead of what people typically have done in the past with single speed filtration pumps. We are entering a golden age for pools. Better operation than ever for less money/electricity.
This is not real world numbers. Nobody with a 1 1/2" plumbing is getting anywhere near 80gpm. Half of that is about right.
These are specifically real world numbers - this is why I installed a test lab and monitor every bit of flow and power with (redundant) multiple points of instrumentation. I think you are confusing maximum flow with maximum efficient flow. Here are multiple examples of single 1.5" suction and single 1.5" returns up to and over 80 GPM and that is with only a 1.5 hp pump, nevermind the crazy people out there using 2, 2.5 and 3hp filtration pumps - these definitely exceed 80 to 90 in a 1.5" pipe (and the pump probably cavitates). Here is the test showing how flow rates in 1.5" pipes can damage filters: ua-cam.com/video/D7a0MfrjDTU/v-deo.html and here is a follow up video where I show with an expensive (and very accurate) digital flow meter than this system is achieving 83 GPM in one 1.5" pipe, through a pump and cartridge filter, on a system with just about 30 feet of head resistance, aka an "average" pool system: ua-cam.com/video/vekUZvRLico/v-deo.html I think this article about maximum efficient flow and pipe size will help you to understand flow rates versus efficient flow rates: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/pipe-size.html - The systems out there with 1.5" pipe and low flow rates also probably have terribly designed systems with unnecessary restrictions to flow, and also probably sand filters which are the largest restriction to flow on the pad, and probably the pump is trying to go 80 GPM but instead just driving the bejeesus out of the filter which is made for no more than 50 GPM due to the multiport valve and tank full of sand.