A misfiring cylinder certainly does not necessarily mean a bad coil. Simply move the suspect coil to a different plug and see if the code follows it or stays with the original cylinder. Then change that plug and retest. Might have to clear all codes in between.
I was all set to inspect and ultimately change out the spark plugs on my wife's 2019 Honda Civic at about 180k, but was unable to budge the two plugs I tried to remove! I don't have the ability to cut new threads in the head or install an insert if the forceful removal of the plugs (steel threads) stripped out the aluminum head. Definitely empower yourself to DIY but still know your limitations.
I can say that I have done a few drain and fills on a 2010 Toyota Tundra and 2021 Honda Civic CVT. The procedures on both are a PITA, and what the dealers quoted me would be very reasonable for most people. There is a lot to worry about, like getting the car level, getting the car in the correct temp range, and of course dealing with drain, fill, and possibly overflow plugs.
I had an independent Volvo / Toyota repair shop for 24 years. Factory flat rate times were vastly understated as that was the time allocated for warranty repair and factories are loath to pay anything for warranty work. Instead, we used the flat rate time adjusted for real-time conditions. My shop was in northern California so rust wasn't an issue. I could do a set of brake pads for .5 hr. per axle so that's what I charged. If the car was from snow country and rusted all to hell, you'd charge a lot more for the same job. It's about treating your customers right and being honest when you're quoting a job and make sure the customer knows the possible pitfalls of the job. For example, a bad coil could be from spark plugs that were never changed and there is a possibility that you might end up with a broken spark plug or stripped threads in the head and, all of a sudden, the job just got a lot more complicated.
I need more of these "combo" videos. Most people are ignorant of car repairs comes from a lack of confidence and seeing what looks complicated is really uncomplicated
To save money, I've transferred springs from old struts to new ones. Only problem is that compressing the spring is dangerous. There's a tremendous amount of energy in a compressed spring. If for some reason something lets go, there's the potential for a really serious injury. I knew all that when I did the job, and I really didn't like working with a compressed spring. Next time I do struts, I'll just pay the extra for struts with springs. It's a lot safer and also a lot easier. Just remove the old, and pop-in the new.
Ya if you ask for quick struts most jobbers/ auto part stores will know exactly what you are talking about. True story many years ago trying to do that exact job using the weight of the vehicle to compress and then using zip ties and when that didn't work we went to coat hangers. At first we were really careful lowering it but after a couple beers (Real beer not that US stuff. It's called sex in a canoe. Ya fn near water. Just saying but ya the danger factor seemed to go away. Believe it or not we got it done. This was before the days of Harbour Freight or what I call Princess Junk Store. It's our version of Harbour Freight. Sorry for the book long length of this I just wanted to mention it. Take care and definitely work safe 👍🇨🇦🔧
The jack that came with the car should only be used to change a tire. Please do not use it to do any other work than that. I’ve had one fail on the car for more than 20 minutes. It’s too much strain on that jack. Luckily, I had jackstands on the frame.
I have always have been a tinkerer with other stuff but never been a car guy. Now that I won a car I wanted to learn how to maintain my car. It can save me money and gives me a different kind of hobby that is useful. Thanks!
Changing ATF is good, "flushes" are often bad. If you have a Toyota or Honda product, I would suggest using only their ATF. After the brake job, be sure to tighten the lug nuts in the proper order and to factory specs. Techs often do not and can promote rotor warping. As to struts, unfortunately it's not rare for tire and other shops to wipe some oil on the struts or shocks and tell the customer that they are leaking and need to be replaced. On some struts, a small amt. of "leaking" is considered normal. If a shop wants to do an expensive job (or any job really) on your car, get a second opinion. Always use shops that have been in your town for many years with a good reputation. Avoid chains and NEVER use any of the quick oil change places. If possible, always change your own oil and filter.
I do the work on all 5 of my vehicles. I can tell you that getting to the back coils/plugs on some engines like the Toyota 1MZ-FE can be a real PITA. Damn right I’m going to replace all 3 while I’m back there. Or for some let a qualified mechanic do the job, as there is some room for mistakes on all the stuff that has to come off.
The reason we recommend to do them all is because we don't want to see you in a month or two for the next coil that drops out. Now we have to deal with an upset customer and potentially a 1 star review.
Marking up the price of a part like 3 or 4 times the amount. Its surprising how mechanics will do this, but if anyone else did it would be called scalping.
I did it on my v6 tarago. Is easy. And shifts are so much smoother. Fill more than you need like 1 litre more. And do the cycle thing this will get more clean fiuld. Run tranny for 5 mins and dump it with the straw inserted...
I just do it myself. You get quality parts cheaper online versus what the dealership is charging you for. 8 years ago I took my car to a dealership to see how they charge to do the basic nuts and bolt re-tighten and they want $900. In my head...I'm like pfft! Eff that...I'll do that myself.
Coils and spark plugs could be more complicated on your engine. V6 Toyota Highlander or Lexus RX300 fof example Or oxygen sensor on a bmw with their dumb catalytic converter placements. Really just gotta check your use-case but yeah definitely DIY a lot
I do not agree with usig the jack that came with the car to do anything more then tire change unless you use a jack stand other wise keep a 1.5 ton jack handy in the trunk like I do if you are doing a brake job and u are using a jack still use a stan short story a shop in my town the mechanic was doing breaks with a floor jack and no stand he had his legs under the front and the jack failed he got crushed
Guys before do any of this, please check video made for doing those things first (e.g.chris fix) here is little coverage how to do those things you need to be aware of much more stuff, apart from this good video
I have a question about the brake pad replacement, I saw a lot of videos where they put on brake grease but in the video you did not mention it. is it necessary or is it recommended? Also, wouldn't using the rotor to lever the piston in its place dent it?
Look for a UA-cam video (or several) specific to your own car. This video is just to give you an idea of how simple several common repairs are...this is not a specific DIY video in itself.
be more concerned about the news pads sitting on the lip of discs. they are easy to do if you have some idea of what your doing. but so many things can go wrong.
You made it sound as though the mechanic is ripping people off by charging more by the book than they really need. But the book labor times are an average. Some cars are easy by design, some are hard (which is why mechanics hate engineers). Some cars will be hard because they're old and have been badly maintained or heavily rusted, some will be easy for the opposite reasons. There is a heck of a lot of difference between a Hawaii car (I did a lot of my own work when I lived in Hawaii, including an engine overhaul) and a Massachusetts car. So, a brake job might take 45 minutes on one car, and two hours on the next (after the mechanic has had to break or torch half a dozen heavily rusted bolts and sand clean every surface). However, if car owners are more diligent about DIY maintenance than they were about going to mechanics (because they can afford it more easily), it's likely their cars will be easier to maintain overall in the long run.
I agree. It's a disservice to say that mechanics are ripping off their customers. You don't want to do the work yourself, you pay the rate. You want to save some money, then buy the tools and order the parts and spend the time to do the work yourself. Same applies to plumbing, carpentry, electrical, etc. And if you decide to do it yourself, be prepared for unexpected time & expense, because sometimes the job gets harder than expected (rusted parts, your car is just harder due to the design, you need a specialty tool to do the job, you're inexperienced, etc. etc. etc.). I do all my own work because I like to buy tools, I want to save money, and I enjoy the work. But not everyone is like me.
It isn't some average, it is just a recommended time set by the manufacturer and they are usually generous in the time they recommend that a pro with the right tools would take and give a large buffer (which usually isn't needed). Lookup the factory service manual for your own car and look at the times they set. It also has nothing to do with an average of hard or easy design as the book times from the manufacturer are different for each car as well, so that goes to show how much you know. I am pretty sure the manufacturers make money or keep their dealers happy when they set a longer time, so they have an incentive to be generous with the time they set. They also don't even need the book to overcharge on labor if they want, I remember a few years ago asking a mechanic who saw my car in person how much he would charge in labor and parts to change a front engine mount and he quoted 2 hours for labor (without looking at any book), I then went home and saw how to do it on my car on youtube and that I could do it myself within 30 or 40 mins and I did, that was what got me started in DIY as well. On my car you just needed to jackup the engine and use a long extension with a breaker bar to unscrew the 4 bolts holding it in place. No other parts needed removing.
@@Tim._.. You're right that they can always charge whatever they want, regardless of what the book says. However, it can be dangerous changing prices substantially for the same work from car to car if a consumer advocate starts tracking how much they're charging women versus men, whites versus blacks, et cetera. A standard figure out of a book keeps them out of court.
I've been told that the alternator on my 2020 Toyota Camry might need replacing . After confirming it , I'm sure I could replace it after watching a UA-cam channel , where they did on exact same car .
But on dealer price yes if a job call for an hour and they can do it in 25 minutes then ok but if it a hour and it takes 3 hours then you still pay a hour.
I love the idea of jobs that are owner friendly (diy), however, I really did hope that prices were included for tools as well and not just for labor/part mark-ups. As well as the importance of torque-to-spec. Tip #5 would concern me if someone didn't have a torque wrench for the Lower & Upper Strut Mount bolts. Some vehicles, like my 2000 Toyota Corolla call for 206ft/lbs for Lower and 29ft/lbs for Upper. Having a torque wrench would be important for such installation.
Where are you located? Im in HPP and always looking for a mechanic to do fixes that I can’t do myself or don’t have the time for. Please contact me. Mahalo🤙🏼
I thought this was a dyi on how to rip off a car mechanics. personally, I never hire a mechanic. I drive a 1973 super beetle and I fix it myself. I'm lazy and not a very good mechanic but I still get around
Automotive diagnostic specialist here. To anyone watching this, this video is extremely misleading. For example he said get a scanner, see what cylinder is misfiring according to the code and replace the ignition coil. That will not fix 60% of misfiring issues. A CODE SCAN IS NOT A DIAGNOSIS. IT'S JUST TELLING YOU WHERE THE COMPUTER SEES AN ISSUE. It takes years of studying, experience, knowledge in many things like electrical, thousands of dollars in tools, etc to figure out what the ACTUAL issue is. If you pull an O2 sensor code and replace it and the code is still there, now what? You just wasted unnecessary money and time on a guess. What happens if you go to remove the O2 sensor and the threads come out with it? Now what? This is a skilled trade that requires high IQ and thousands upon thousands of dollars (or hours) in tools and education. Do not think that we will work for tree because it's trendy to think we should on UA-cam. You pay an electrician $600 to do a 30 minute job with no second thought but when a mechanic works hard on your car for an hour you want to cry about $100 🤔 that's because you were conditioned to think mechanics should work for free because of social media. Where's the lie 🔎🧐
Not for free, mechanics charge you quadruple the amount of money. Most of them tell you the car has different issue so they charge you more. Some of them don't even do the job for example changing filter and oil. Just to charge a faulty or expired battery the mechanic made me spend 80 € then I had to replace that battery myself after a few days with the same amount of money. Throughout 4 years mechanics destroyed my car because I left that for them to do whatever they want. Change brake caliper with rusty ones,change fuses position, change whatever they need😮 so if mechanics were honest everybody would be happy.
@@Ormigo111 NOPE I DON'T WANNA HEAR IT BECAUSE YOU PEOPLE GIVE YOUR REPEATED BUSINESS TO THE SHADY SHOPS AND LOOK DOWN ON THE GOOD MECHANICS LIKE US. LIKE YOU SAID YOU KEPT TAKING YOUR VEHICLE BACK UNTIL THEY RAN IT INTO THE GROUND APPARENTLY. YOU COULD HAVE EASILY TAKEN IT TO A GOOD MECHANIC BUT NO YOU CHOSE TO REPEATEDLY TAKE IT TO THE GARBAGE MECHANIC. I DON'T WANT TO HEAR IT
Nope 95% of shops around will just scan and replace the part the scanner recommended. If that doesn’t fix it just bring it back is what they always say, tried giving the benefit the doubt but they’re all the same. The best thing you can do is buy a scanner yourself or take it to a dealership and have them diagnose then replace it yourself.
@@Ormigo111exactly I have tried multiple shops and they are all the same, they scan and replace. Charge it for you then if that doesn’t work they’ll tell you to bring it back 😂
This video is bullcrap and you know it - what should take 30 minutes often turns into hours and hours of diagnosis and work that the average person is NOT ready to go through. You will cost people their livelihoods with this horrible advice - just wait until you get some “DIY” folks who strip their own spark plugs or it breaks off during removal and now their engine is boned and they can’t afford to replace a vehicle especially now that they can’t get to work!!! Cheap work is not good work and good work is not cheap! Yes there are liars and idiots in this industry but you are making it harder for honest people with a ton of knowledge and experience be paid what they are worth with this horrible perspective AND you are giving people who know very little about how complex this can become false confidence
I did my spark plugs and coils and tranny fluid on my 2017 ford escape 1.5 and each job was a lot harder than what was shown. It is doable, but as he stated, each car is different. I gave up on changing the O2 sensor. In an impossible place to get to.
don't try this at home , your life will be at risk. you won't do right and destroy something that cost you more. i can also do what doctors do through youtube videos but is it worthy to risk your life, the answer is large NO.
It's straight forward I've been doing repairs on vans no problem from water pump to the drive belt ,to chaging sensors oxegen mass flow filters , to wipers change it myself at home ruining good saved thousands of $
You should never change your brakes unless you know exactly what you’re doing. Other peoples lives depend on your car stopping. You should have your channel closed your dangerous to society
I've been doing my own brakes for nearly 50 years. I've spent the last year reviewing UA-cam videos on brakes and found negligible issues with regards to safety, only a few with regard to long-term issues (such as different mechanics' ideas of the best lubricants to use). It's just as likely diligent DIY mechanics can learn how to do their _own_ particular car model's brakes as it is to find a mechanic who knows how to do that car model's brakes as well _and_ is willing to do them as well. I don't mind spending half a day paying attention to every tiny detail of getting my particular brakes perfectly done well...but a lot of mechanics aren't going to spend the time on those details.
Mechanics do the job very carelessly, I don't think they are safer😂 They don't even grease parts and the brakes suffer until they need replacement. In my case they've made me change 3 times the front wheels brake pads while I needed urgently replacing the back ones, no one told me. The work they do is very superficial, no cleaning, no greasing nothing. They only want money😂 Tell me what does a worker do when the boss is not around?❤
A misfiring cylinder certainly does not necessarily mean a bad coil. Simply move the suspect coil to a different plug and see if the code follows it or stays with the original cylinder. Then change that plug and retest. Might have to clear all codes in between.
I did all of these.... i saved tons of $$$. 4 cars in my family. Listen to him.
I was all set to inspect and ultimately change out the spark plugs on my wife's 2019 Honda Civic at about 180k, but was unable to budge the two plugs I tried to remove! I don't have the ability to cut new threads in the head or install an insert if the forceful removal of the plugs (steel threads) stripped out the aluminum head. Definitely empower yourself to DIY but still know your limitations.
Exactly. This is one of the best comments I've ever seen so far 👍🇨🇦🔧
I can say that I have done a few drain and fills on a 2010 Toyota Tundra and 2021 Honda Civic CVT. The procedures on both are a PITA, and what the dealers quoted me would be very reasonable for most people. There is a lot to worry about, like getting the car level, getting the car in the correct temp range, and of course dealing with drain, fill, and possibly overflow plugs.
I had an independent Volvo / Toyota repair shop for 24 years. Factory flat rate times were vastly understated as that was the time allocated for warranty repair and factories are loath to pay anything for warranty work. Instead, we used the flat rate time adjusted for real-time conditions. My shop was in northern California so rust wasn't an issue. I could do a set of brake pads for .5 hr. per axle so that's what I charged. If the car was from snow country and rusted all to hell, you'd charge a lot more for the same job. It's about treating your customers right and being honest when you're quoting a job and make sure the customer knows the possible pitfalls of the job. For example, a bad coil could be from spark plugs that were never changed and there is a possibility that you might end up with a broken spark plug or stripped threads in the head and, all of a sudden, the job just got a lot more complicated.
But he is talking about service and maintenance times, not warranty work.
I need more of these "combo" videos. Most people are ignorant of car repairs comes from a lack of confidence and seeing what looks complicated is really uncomplicated
To save money, I've transferred springs from old struts to new ones. Only problem is that compressing the spring is dangerous. There's a tremendous amount of energy in a compressed spring. If for some reason something lets go, there's the potential for a really serious injury. I knew all that when I did the job, and I really didn't like working with a compressed spring. Next time I do struts, I'll just pay the extra for struts with springs. It's a lot safer and also a lot easier. Just remove the old, and pop-in the new.
I did that just a few weeks ago, having also had the previous experience of fooling with spring compressors.
@@rdkirk3834 just hire spring compressors
This, plus despite what many claim springs do wear out. They face tension fatigue, cyclic stress and material fatigue.
Ya if you ask for quick struts most jobbers/ auto part stores will know exactly what you are talking about. True story many years ago trying to do that exact job using the weight of the vehicle to compress and then using zip ties and when that didn't work we went to coat hangers. At first we were really careful lowering it but after a couple beers (Real beer not that US stuff. It's called sex in a canoe. Ya fn near water. Just saying but ya the danger factor seemed to go away. Believe it or not we got it done. This was before the days of Harbour Freight or what I call Princess Junk Store. It's our version of Harbour Freight. Sorry for the book long length of this I just wanted to mention it. Take care and definitely work safe 👍🇨🇦🔧
Yea I did that and the car sat higher,....didn't look right and the customer noticed as well
The jack that came with the car should only be used to change a tire. Please do not use it to do any other work than that. I’ve had one fail on the car for more than 20 minutes. It’s too much strain on that jack. Luckily, I had jackstands on the frame.
I have always have been a tinkerer with other stuff but never been a car guy. Now that I won a car I wanted to learn how to maintain my car. It can save me money and gives me a different kind of hobby that is useful. Thanks!
He just reminds me of those people say my friend can do it for cheaper 😂 lol
100%.. Thinks he has a clue but it's laymen talk.
Changing ATF is good, "flushes" are often bad. If you have a Toyota or Honda product, I would suggest using only their ATF. After the brake job, be sure to tighten the lug nuts in the proper order and to factory specs. Techs often do not and can promote rotor warping.
As to struts, unfortunately it's not rare for tire and other shops to wipe some oil on the struts or shocks and tell the customer that they are leaking and need to be replaced. On some struts, a small amt. of "leaking" is considered normal. If a shop wants to do an expensive job (or any job really) on your car, get a second opinion. Always use shops that have been in your town for many years with a good reputation. Avoid chains and NEVER use any of the quick oil change places. If possible, always change your own oil and filter.
Good Overview Video, All Basic Maintenance Repairs most people should do themselves, I’ve been doing since I was 15
7:42 the sandals kick is an Olympic 😂
I do the work on all 5 of my vehicles. I can tell you that getting to the back coils/plugs on some engines like the Toyota 1MZ-FE can be a real PITA. Damn right I’m going to replace all 3 while I’m back there. Or for some let a qualified mechanic do the job, as there is some room for mistakes on all the stuff that has to come off.
I personally would never transfer springs from strut to strut. Even if I owned a shop. Either pay for the whole assembly or go somewhere else.
I agree with the premise of the video, but as this is targeted to inexperienced viewers, the diy repairs suggested can be catastrophic.
The reason we recommend to do them all is because we don't want to see you in a month or two for the next coil that drops out. Now we have to deal with an upset customer and potentially a 1 star review.
Marking up the price of a part like 3 or 4 times the amount. Its surprising how mechanics will do this, but if anyone else did it would be called scalping.
my favorite rip off is the changing air filters usually a 5-minute job and they could charge 100 dollars for both filters when you can buy them for 30
How do you feel about changing transmission fluid on sealed transmissions?
(Pain, e.g. on Sienna need to measue temps to check level)
I did it on my v6 tarago. Is easy. And shifts are so much smoother. Fill more than you need like 1 litre more. And do the cycle thing this will get more clean fiuld. Run tranny for 5 mins and dump it with the straw inserted...
Is a toyota remember the tolerances are higher than Europe cars
Exactly im not a mechanic and i did all my suspension even axles on 01 camry v6 you can do it DiY4Life
I just do it myself. You get quality parts cheaper online versus what the dealership is charging you for. 8 years ago I took my car to a dealership to see how they charge to do the basic nuts and bolt re-tighten and they want $900. In my head...I'm like pfft! Eff that...I'll do that myself.
Coils and spark plugs could be more complicated on your engine. V6 Toyota Highlander or Lexus RX300 fof example
Or oxygen sensor on a bmw with their dumb catalytic converter placements. Really just gotta check your use-case but yeah definitely DIY a lot
I do not agree with usig the jack that came with the car to do anything more then tire change unless you use a jack stand other wise keep a 1.5 ton jack handy in the trunk like I do if you are doing a brake job and u are using a jack still use a stan short story a shop in my town the mechanic was doing breaks with a floor jack and no stand he had his legs under the front and the jack failed he got crushed
Guys before do any of this, please check video made for doing those things first (e.g.chris fix) here is little coverage how to do those things you need to be aware of much more stuff, apart from this good video
Are you in Kona? I have a hilux surf that needs front struts replaced and tans fluid change.
Thank you 😊
Don't buy Bosch oxygen sensors!
I have a question about the brake pad replacement, I saw a lot of videos where they put on brake grease but in the video you did not mention it. is it necessary or is it recommended?
Also, wouldn't using the rotor to lever the piston in its place dent it?
Brake grease is a good idea. Not using it can lead to excessive pad wear because on the round pins, if those are not greased, they may not slide out.
Look for a UA-cam video (or several) specific to your own car. This video is just to give you an idea of how simple several common repairs are...this is not a specific DIY video in itself.
be more concerned about the news pads sitting on the lip of discs. they are easy to do if you have some idea of what your doing. but so many things can go wrong.
You made it sound as though the mechanic is ripping people off by charging more by the book than they really need. But the book labor times are an average. Some cars are easy by design, some are hard (which is why mechanics hate engineers). Some cars will be hard because they're old and have been badly maintained or heavily rusted, some will be easy for the opposite reasons. There is a heck of a lot of difference between a Hawaii car (I did a lot of my own work when I lived in Hawaii, including an engine overhaul) and a Massachusetts car. So, a brake job might take 45 minutes on one car, and two hours on the next (after the mechanic has had to break or torch half a dozen heavily rusted bolts and sand clean every surface). However, if car owners are more diligent about DIY maintenance than they were about going to mechanics (because they can afford it more easily), it's likely their cars will be easier to maintain overall in the long run.
I agree. It's a disservice to say that mechanics are ripping off their customers. You don't want to do the work yourself, you pay the rate. You want to save some money, then buy the tools and order the parts and spend the time to do the work yourself. Same applies to plumbing, carpentry, electrical, etc. And if you decide to do it yourself, be prepared for unexpected time & expense, because sometimes the job gets harder than expected (rusted parts, your car is just harder due to the design, you need a specialty tool to do the job, you're inexperienced, etc. etc. etc.). I do all my own work because I like to buy tools, I want to save money, and I enjoy the work. But not everyone is like me.
Yeah this dude is misleading people big time
He is doing this for views on his page
It isn't some average, it is just a recommended time set by the manufacturer and they are usually generous in the time they recommend that a pro with the right tools would take and give a large buffer (which usually isn't needed). Lookup the factory service manual for your own car and look at the times they set. It also has nothing to do with an average of hard or easy design as the book times from the manufacturer are different for each car as well, so that goes to show how much you know. I am pretty sure the manufacturers make money or keep their dealers happy when they set a longer time, so they have an incentive to be generous with the time they set.
They also don't even need the book to overcharge on labor if they want, I remember a few years ago asking a mechanic who saw my car in person how much he would charge in labor and parts to change a front engine mount and he quoted 2 hours for labor (without looking at any book), I then went home and saw how to do it on my car on youtube and that I could do it myself within 30 or 40 mins and I did, that was what got me started in DIY as well. On my car you just needed to jackup the engine and use a long extension with a breaker bar to unscrew the 4 bolts holding it in place. No other parts needed removing.
@@Tim._.. You're right that they can always charge whatever they want, regardless of what the book says. However, it can be dangerous changing prices substantially for the same work from car to car if a consumer advocate starts tracking how much they're charging women versus men, whites versus blacks, et cetera. A standard figure out of a book keeps them out of court.
I've been told that the alternator on my 2020 Toyota Camry might need replacing . After confirming it , I'm sure I could replace it after watching a UA-cam channel , where they did on exact same car .
Good stuff but not a fan of quick struts.
But on dealer price yes if a job call for an hour and they can do it in 25 minutes then ok but if it a hour and it takes 3 hours then you still pay a hour.
I love the idea of jobs that are owner friendly (diy), however, I really did hope that prices were included for tools as well and not just for labor/part mark-ups. As well as the importance of torque-to-spec. Tip #5 would concern me if someone didn't have a torque wrench for the Lower & Upper Strut Mount bolts. Some vehicles, like my 2000 Toyota Corolla call for 206ft/lbs for Lower and 29ft/lbs for Upper. Having a torque wrench would be important for such installation.
Where are you located? Im in HPP and always looking for a mechanic to do fixes that I can’t do myself or don’t have the time for. Please contact me. Mahalo🤙🏼
My dealer charged me $100 more for a $140 ignition coil (Mopar price). That is eggregious.
gotta pay for the building and lights....
Lol. Anyone ever changed plug on a 5.3 Tahoe 😂. Driver side back plug. Bruh WTF
I thought this was a dyi on how to rip off a car mechanics. personally, I never hire a mechanic. I drive a 1973 super beetle and I fix it myself. I'm lazy and not a very good mechanic but I still get around
Automotive diagnostic specialist here. To anyone watching this, this video is extremely misleading. For example he said get a scanner, see what cylinder is misfiring according to the code and replace the ignition coil. That will not fix 60% of misfiring issues. A CODE SCAN IS NOT A DIAGNOSIS. IT'S JUST TELLING YOU WHERE THE COMPUTER SEES AN ISSUE. It takes years of studying, experience, knowledge in many things like electrical, thousands of dollars in tools, etc to figure out what the ACTUAL issue is. If you pull an O2 sensor code and replace it and the code is still there, now what? You just wasted unnecessary money and time on a guess. What happens if you go to remove the O2 sensor and the threads come out with it? Now what? This is a skilled trade that requires high IQ and thousands upon thousands of dollars (or hours) in tools and education. Do not think that we will work for tree because it's trendy to think we should on UA-cam. You pay an electrician $600 to do a 30 minute job with no second thought but when a mechanic works hard on your car for an hour you want to cry about $100 🤔 that's because you were conditioned to think mechanics should work for free because of social media. Where's the lie 🔎🧐
Not for free, mechanics charge you quadruple the amount of money. Most of them tell you the car has different issue so they charge you more. Some of them don't even do the job for example changing filter and oil. Just to charge a faulty or expired battery the mechanic made me spend 80 € then I had to replace that battery myself after a few days with the same amount of money. Throughout 4 years mechanics destroyed my car because I left that for them to do whatever they want. Change brake caliper with rusty ones,change fuses position, change whatever they need😮 so if mechanics were honest everybody would be happy.
@@Ormigo111 NOPE I DON'T WANNA HEAR IT BECAUSE YOU PEOPLE GIVE YOUR REPEATED BUSINESS TO THE SHADY SHOPS AND LOOK DOWN ON THE GOOD MECHANICS LIKE US. LIKE YOU SAID YOU KEPT TAKING YOUR VEHICLE BACK UNTIL THEY RAN IT INTO THE GROUND APPARENTLY. YOU COULD HAVE EASILY TAKEN IT TO A GOOD MECHANIC BUT NO YOU CHOSE TO REPEATEDLY TAKE IT TO THE GARBAGE MECHANIC.
I DON'T WANT TO HEAR IT
Nope 95% of shops around will just scan and replace the part the scanner recommended. If that doesn’t fix it just bring it back is what they always say, tried giving the benefit the doubt but they’re all the same. The best thing you can do is buy a scanner yourself or take it to a dealership and have them diagnose then replace it yourself.
@@Ormigo111exactly I have tried multiple shops and they are all the same, they scan and replace. Charge it for you then if that doesn’t work they’ll tell you to bring it back 😂
@@beammeupscottsp7952 all shops are not the same. But the ones that you give your repeated business to seem to be. Hmmm🤔
This video is bullcrap and you know it - what should take 30 minutes often turns into hours and hours of diagnosis and work that the average person is NOT ready to go through. You will cost people their livelihoods with this horrible advice - just wait until you get some “DIY” folks who strip their own spark plugs or it breaks off during removal and now their engine is boned and they can’t afford to replace a vehicle especially now that they can’t get to work!!! Cheap work is not good work and good work is not cheap! Yes there are liars and idiots in this industry but you are making it harder for honest people with a ton of knowledge and experience be paid what they are worth with this horrible perspective AND you are giving people who know very little about how complex this can become false confidence
I did my spark plugs and coils and tranny fluid on my 2017 ford escape 1.5 and each job was a lot harder than what was shown. It is doable, but as he stated, each car is different. I gave up on changing the O2 sensor. In an impossible place to get to.
Are you being overcharged by auto repair shops? No. Not at all. Never happened.
Agree.
😮😢
The title to your video literally means you can rip yourself off. Time for some English grammar review.
Ha!
don't try this at home , your life will be at risk. you won't do right and destroy something that cost you more. i can also do what doctors do through youtube videos but is it worthy to risk your life, the answer is large NO.
wow just wow so much bad advice . so much of this is so wrong and dangerous
It's straight forward I've been doing repairs on vans no problem from water pump to the drive belt ,to chaging sensors oxegen mass flow filters , to wipers change it myself at home ruining good saved thousands of $
You should never change your brakes unless you know exactly what you’re doing. Other peoples lives depend on your car stopping. You should have your channel closed your dangerous to society
I've been doing my own brakes for nearly 50 years. I've spent the last year reviewing UA-cam videos on brakes and found negligible issues with regards to safety, only a few with regard to long-term issues (such as different mechanics' ideas of the best lubricants to use). It's just as likely diligent DIY mechanics can learn how to do their _own_ particular car model's brakes as it is to find a mechanic who knows how to do that car model's brakes as well _and_ is willing to do them as well. I don't mind spending half a day paying attention to every tiny detail of getting my particular brakes perfectly done well...but a lot of mechanics aren't going to spend the time on those details.
Mechanics do the job very carelessly, I don't think they are safer😂 They don't even grease parts and the brakes suffer until they need replacement. In my case they've made me change 3 times the front wheels brake pads while I needed urgently replacing the back ones, no one told me. The work they do is very superficial, no cleaning, no greasing nothing. They only want money😂 Tell me what does a worker do when the boss is not around?❤