For saltwater boat trailers, I've been using heat shrink terminals and butt connectors, followed by liquid electrical tape, and then adhesive lined heat shrink. Works for years on trailer lights getting dunked in saltwater weekly. Just adds one more step to keep moisture and corrosion out
I wire things pretty much the same way. Its simple and works. It may not be the "right" way, but I have never had any issue. Also, I'm glad to see Pond Scum still around. Maybe see it on UA 2024??
Fred, fill your connector up with clear silicone before you insert, and crimp, the wires. Give it time to dry before heat shrinking. Then, you have a ultra-watertight connection as well.
I just run heat shrink equipped splices and deal with the wire being close to stuff. I also am old-school and I shrink down my heat shrink with fire. (Lighter for indoor/ no wind, torch for outdoor/windy areas) I then coat the splice with woven electrical tape. It's how I was shown in college and it's served me well since.
Three things regarding crimping. 1. I prefer bare connectors to insulated, then I heat shrink them. I find this gives a less bulky and cleaner look. 2. I would’ve pointed out that when crimping a seamed connector, always put the crimp opposite the seam. A lot of connectors are full circle and this is not an issue. 3. The crimpers you show are worth the weight in Gold compared to cheap ones.
For wiring, I tend to solder/heat shrink. There are also those solder/heat shrink butt connectors that I've used. I do stagger the wiring connectors, ie, I don't have them at the same spot, that way the wiring harness stays slim and makes it easy to wrap
In addition to what you mentioned, another reason that I don’t like the plastic split loom is that they have a higher chance to collect water. I recently wired up an aux battery and used that stretch loom like you to add a layer of protection for the insulation but I felt it would also allow the water and moisture to evaporate relatively quicker.
Damn, I was hoping for something better than a vampire clamp for the marker light - was really hoping you were going to show how to unpin the OE connector and add the new wire to it.
Fun stuff Fred. Another way to modify a round connector is to drill it out to the size you need. Hold it with a vice preferably or in the grooves of a set of vice grips if not. Found this out by necessity.
I use to drive an off road dump truck, and some of the lights n switches weren't working correctly. I had time sitting between loads, so I opened the dash to check the connections. ALL the wires were Red. And found when they replaced a wire, they just cut the ends and left the old red wires in the dash. 2 weeks of rewiring to clean out the dash and get things working. All that to say using correct color wire is very helpful. Love your tutorials.
I like to put heat shrink over spade connections on lights to make them more permanent but still removable for replacement. Those marine connectors are the way to go, keeps the stress off the connection and corrosion out fairly well even without the extra heat shrink. A more round crimping tool helps with punctures in the connector. I still use that same kind you did tho, seems to make the best connection.
the pink plastic connector ( about 27 mins ) here in the UK the're called Scotch locks .. and i hate them because the metal insert really weakens the wire & insulation i prefer solder wire connectors ( might be called something else in USA ) .. they are a piece of clear heat-shrink with a ring of solder in it ... way stronger
I use connectors and splices from Posi-Products. Very secure, all kinds of different sizes, they even make weather and water resistance connectors. Solid metal core on the inside, completely reversible... the taps just make a tiny pin-hole in the wire being spliced. You can even heatshrink over them if you want. Disadvantage to their splice connectors is that the two wires will be perpendicular to each other, not parallel. Even if you prefer soldering the connections, the Posi-Tap and Posi-Locks are really useful to make sure everything works as you intended before doing the soldering. (I am not affiliated with Posi-Products in any way)
Hey Fred! I’ve used the same in-line splicers and hate them too because if you splice into a low quality small gauge wire it could break, I’ve also used T-Taps but they use the same style vampire cut into the wire style connection. My favorite that I’ve stumbled across was included with a radio installation kit from crutchfield audio and they’re called posi-taps they basically stab the wire right in the center to make a solid connection while still allowing it to be malleable. The only downside I’ve seen is theres no way to really weatherproof it but if it’s an item that’s seeing harsh elements I would rather just strip it all and solder it together then apply generous amounts of adhesive filled shrink tubing. Other than that I’m also in the same boat of finding high quality taps and electrical shortcuts to make my repairs and installations better. I hope you try out that posi tap product because they’re pretty damn neat!
With insulated terminals, you should use the insulated part of the crispers. It’s not the male female part you’re showing, but the concave bends on the crispers that will not perforate your heat shrink or the original insulation.
As far as the wire goes, you lights are rated at 25 watts that is barely over 2 amps each and even 18 gauge wire is rated at 14 amps so I think you are good are wiring.
I prefer to use solder sticks to connect wires, and instead of splicing the wires together with that stupid connector, I unpin the wire at the terminal and add the new wire to the pin and put the connector back together. I also use liquid electrical tape on odd connections that heat shrink isnt feasible.
You can either take 3 wires and splice them together (twist them together) putting a cap on them, or you can find a lever nut (basically a contactor with levers that come down onto the wire, making it easy to connect and disconnect). It’s not going to be as insulated as you’d like, but those are more sturdy connectors. It’s how I was taught to do electrical. And if you place them properly, you might be able to make something that can keep water out of them.
Hey fred 👋 in march of 2024 matts affroad recovery is hosting The offroad games. He's inviting you tubers that offroad for some fun and games it would be cool if you had time to go. Hurricane utah. 👍👍👍✌️
Fred, have the desency to put your "Gotta Pay The Bills Somehow" (junk videos) on your 2nd channel. I'm not going to like or dislike this video because I got bills I gotta pay as well, do you understand?
@@888johnmac lol installing lights dude 😂 is laughable. Stop simp'in for Fred John, Fred doesn't want to do a reenactment of Broke Back Mountain with you, he will never date you. Just stop. It's kind of obvious Fred had to go out of his way to locate a vehicle that his sponsors didn't already give him lights for. Just incase Bud Light wants to sponsor Fred I think it's a good idea to post this stuff on a second channel. Don't you agree? Honestly. . .
I thought this was an excellent electrical tutorial..and Fred did it so it was even more fun!👍🏻👍🏻
I discovered that I basically do things (especially wiring) Fred’s way.
Dude!!! Wiring for dummies!!! Great job!!! I had those lights on my 94 cab over Freightliner!!!✌️
a military splice has never failed me in 30 yrs. great video. thanks for sharing.
Loved this Fred! Pond scum is my 2nd fav of your rigs to Clampy 🤘🇨🇦
The best way I found out how to do wiring is to get someone else to do that has the patience to do
I usually twist together horizontally then solder and heat shrink over it.
For saltwater boat trailers, I've been using heat shrink terminals and butt connectors, followed by liquid electrical tape, and then adhesive lined heat shrink. Works for years on trailer lights getting dunked in saltwater weekly. Just adds one more step to keep moisture and corrosion out
I wire things pretty much the same way. Its simple and works. It may not be the "right" way, but I have never had any issue.
Also, I'm glad to see Pond Scum still around. Maybe see it on UA 2024??
😊 YES, you crimped it correctly, Fred!
I have had good luck with adhesive lined heat shrink, which helps even more to keep moisture out.
Fred, fill your connector up with clear silicone before you insert, and crimp, the wires. Give it time to dry before heat shrinking. Then, you have a ultra-watertight connection as well.
I just run heat shrink equipped splices and deal with the wire being close to stuff. I also am old-school and I shrink down my heat shrink with fire. (Lighter for indoor/ no wind, torch for outdoor/windy areas) I then coat the splice with woven electrical tape. It's how I was shown in college and it's served me well since.
Three things regarding crimping.
1. I prefer bare connectors to insulated, then I heat shrink them. I find this gives a less bulky and cleaner look.
2. I would’ve pointed out that when crimping a seamed connector, always put the crimp opposite the seam. A lot of connectors are full circle and this is not an issue.
3. The crimpers you show are worth the weight in Gold compared to cheap ones.
For wiring, I tend to solder/heat shrink. There are also those solder/heat shrink butt connectors that I've used. I do stagger the wiring connectors, ie, I don't have them at the same spot, that way the wiring harness stays slim and makes it easy to wrap
In addition to what you mentioned, another reason that I don’t like the plastic split loom is that they have a higher chance to collect water. I recently wired up an aux battery and used that stretch loom like you to add a layer of protection for the insulation but I felt it would also allow the water and moisture to evaporate relatively quicker.
Damn, I was hoping for something better than a vampire clamp for the marker light - was really hoping you were going to show how to unpin the OE connector and add the new wire to it.
Fun stuff Fred. Another way to modify a round connector is to drill it out to the size you need. Hold it with a vice preferably or in the grooves of a set of vice grips if not. Found this out by necessity.
Piaa lights used to be the bomb back in the day. You were a baller if you had a pair.
I use to drive an off road dump truck, and some of the lights n switches weren't working correctly. I had time sitting between loads, so I opened the dash to check the connections. ALL the wires were Red. And found when they replaced a wire, they just cut the ends and left the old red wires in the dash. 2 weeks of rewiring to clean out the dash and get things working.
All that to say using correct color wire is very helpful.
Love your tutorials.
I like to put heat shrink over spade connections on lights to make them more permanent but still removable for replacement. Those marine connectors are the way to go, keeps the stress off the connection and corrosion out fairly well even without the extra heat shrink. A more round crimping tool helps with punctures in the connector. I still use that same kind you did tho, seems to make the best connection.
The scum is one of my favorites. Love the color and love throwing great parts on a cheap truck.
How can I sign up for "Billy Bob's Trophy Truck Wiring School" ?....🤓
I’m here for all the Pond Scum content. Gonna go watch the DED episodes right now
the pink plastic connector ( about 27 mins ) here in the UK the're called Scotch locks .. and i hate them because the metal insert really weakens the wire & insulation
i prefer solder wire connectors ( might be called something else in USA ) .. they are a piece of clear heat-shrink with a ring of solder in it ... way stronger
They are called scotch locks in the US as well.
They are also referred to as “vampire clamps” in the States.
Fred, you did that all wrong😂 but it works, so good job
Hey Fred!
Thanks for the videos.
🤟😎🤘
That amber turn light is also a DRL light on a early 4th Gen
I use connectors and splices from Posi-Products. Very secure, all kinds of different sizes, they even make weather and water resistance connectors. Solid metal core on the inside, completely reversible... the taps just make a tiny pin-hole in the wire being spliced. You can even heatshrink over them if you want. Disadvantage to their splice connectors is that the two wires will be perpendicular to each other, not parallel. Even if you prefer soldering the connections, the Posi-Tap and Posi-Locks are really useful to make sure everything works as you intended before doing the soldering. (I am not affiliated with Posi-Products in any way)
Hey Fred! I’ve used the same in-line splicers and hate them too because if you splice into a low quality small gauge wire it could break, I’ve also used T-Taps but they use the same style vampire cut into the wire style connection. My favorite that I’ve stumbled across was included with a radio installation kit from crutchfield audio and they’re called posi-taps they basically stab the wire right in the center to make a solid connection while still allowing it to be malleable. The only downside I’ve seen is theres no way to really weatherproof it but if it’s an item that’s seeing harsh elements I would rather just strip it all and solder it together then apply generous amounts of adhesive filled shrink tubing. Other than that I’m also in the same boat of finding high quality taps and electrical shortcuts to make my repairs and installations better. I hope you try out that posi tap product because they’re pretty damn neat!
Great video as always.
I would have probably made some kind of connector for it, weather pack/delphi 150 or something for easy removal
With insulated terminals, you should use the insulated part of the crispers. It’s not the male female part you’re showing, but the concave bends on the crispers that will not perforate your heat shrink or the original insulation.
Unfortunately, those crimps are not nearly as secure. Which is why I use uninsulated connectors.
Instead of using those horrible “scotch locks” I will cut the wire and use a combination butt connector. Then heat shrink
The cheap loom material also seems to saw through aluminum.
As far as the wire goes, you lights are rated at 25 watts that is barely over 2 amps each and even 18 gauge wire is rated at 14 amps so I think you are good are wiring.
I prefer to use solder sticks to connect wires, and instead of splicing the wires together with that stupid connector, I unpin the wire at the terminal and add the new wire to the pin and put the connector back together. I also use liquid electrical tape on odd connections that heat shrink isnt feasible.
Pond Scum now even scummier! 😂
There’s a right way and a wrong way then there’s Fred’s way.
.
Waytekwire external step down butt. Non insulated so I just run shrink over em
You can either take 3 wires and splice them together (twist them together) putting a cap on them, or you can find a lever nut (basically a contactor with levers that come down onto the wire, making it easy to connect and disconnect). It’s not going to be as insulated as you’d like, but those are more sturdy connectors.
It’s how I was taught to do electrical. And if you place them properly, you might be able to make something that can keep water out of them.
Hey fred 👋 in march of 2024 matts affroad recovery is hosting The offroad games. He's inviting you tubers that offroad for some fun and games it would be cool if you had time to go. Hurricane utah. 👍👍👍✌️
Yes, it's better to solder the wires together.
On x also sends tons of junk email it's absolutely annoying ..
Fred, have the desency to put your "Gotta Pay The Bills Somehow" (junk videos) on your 2nd channel.
I'm not going to like or dislike this video because I got bills I gotta pay as well, do you understand?
what the hell ?? Fred does the least intrusive sponsor mentions ever ( and doesn't have a 2nd channel AFAIK )
@@888johnmac lol installing lights dude 😂 is laughable.
Stop simp'in for Fred John, Fred doesn't want to do a reenactment of Broke Back Mountain with you, he will never date you. Just stop.
It's kind of obvious Fred had to go out of his way to locate a vehicle that his sponsors didn't already give him lights for. Just incase Bud Light wants to sponsor Fred I think it's a good idea to post this stuff on a second channel. Don't you agree? Honestly. . .
@@shoutingatclouds1050 I thought that was fine for his page. 🤷♂️. Again he has no second page.
That’s how I would have done it. This just confirms that my car electric skills are on point. Thanks @4xFredWilliams
Crimp fittings are junk. Just solder them together then shrink wrap. Hardly takes anymore time and is 1000% better.