@@PsychonauticRyan They are banned. The traditional owners basically don't like climbing, they don't like the chalk on the rock and think it's disrespectful. Essentially there are a lot of rock quarries that have been found at the cliffs and they're using that as an excuse to ban climbing at those cliffs.
@@PsychonauticRyan in a word, drama, in more words, look it up, its an absolute travesty and if the climbing community would have you believe it its all conspiracy of the parks service to remove rock climbers from the park. But i don't know the full details off by heart, it was a BIG thing in 2019
@@seanmaguire9950 as far as I understood, it isn't even the natives who dislike climbing, but park VIC. I was there early to mid 2019 when the bans started. No evidence from park VIC that the climbers did any real damage, super inflated or even made up figures and accusations. All in the name of protecting native heritage, which is a fair enough reason, but not when the claims are done by the party that exploits the area and without any backing up at all. Also, there had been no warning or dialogue beforehand so the climbers could redeem themselves. Still makes me mad
I read somewhere that it basically comes down to the same thing that happens everywhere, money. Native groups wanted to take over management of some of the land, as it will give them access to the funding that goes with the management. They used the damage to historical sites as a proxy for this. The parks board controlling the land currently didn’t want to lose control and funding. So they launched a targeted campaign against climbers blaming them for the damage etc. to try portray an image that they were doing something about the protection of historical sites. Most of the damage seemed to be completely fabricated or had nothing to do with climbers. As I said initially, this is something I just read, so could be untrue. However, when it comes to politics is there ever such a thing as “truth”. The story makes sense to me as an outsider and knowing how badly authorities manage public land. Sucks either way for the climbers in that area.
That's a great video, especially when I am familiar with the places that were featured. So looking forward to the winter video. Yes, Australia is a great climbing place but Park Victoria is curtailing climbing in a somewhat not so nice manner.
Which ones, some boulders? I think they're all banned aren't they, Touchstone Pictures = banned, Taipan banned, Eureka banned, Muline banned. Not sure about the boulders but most of those are banned.
Yeah just the two gen mentioned, unfortunately butcher's is most likely banned early 2021 as well. Rumour has it kindergarten and Andersons may reopen with limits on group sizes, crash pads etc and possibly taipan also, with exception of the quarry sites they discovered which has some bouldering around it
Hope you did this pre the ban. Its hard enough to negotiate with the bureaucrats at Parks Victoria without the chalk marks at 5:50 in your (lovely) video providing ample evidence of the impact of climbers. Routes I have enjoyed for decades at Stapylton are banned, so we need to be really diplomatic.
Steve and Kate are teh best :) I think every climb shown in the video is currently banned, there's talk about Taipan maybe opening. Basically anything you'd travel around the world to climb=banned, funny that isn't it?
My thoughts exactly. I'm spending nearly every weekend replacing substandard bolts and having to rethink bolt layouts from scratch due to ridiculously huge runouts above ledges, bolts way off line, bolts placed AFTER crux moves, etc, etc. when I'd far rather simply go out and climb. On Saturday we'll tackle a wall with close to ground-fall potential from the top of the route due to "minimalist" bolting - these routes have not been climbed in 20 years because of this - a waste of good stone. Completely point less maintaining a 'tradition' when the original concept was hopelessly flawed to begin with!
@@GregHartSk8er Taipan has trad placements on some climbs so it's not as runout as it's made to be in the video, it's mixed climbing. Although some are stupidly runout.
The origins of the bolting ethics was 1. because we had balls back then and 2. we respected the rock, the bush and the fact that there's others people out there and covering a beautiful rock in shiny ringbolts, fixed hangers and chalk stains is just plain old selfish. Instead we would only place a carrot Bolt when absolutely necessary and because carrots are harder to see. If you need to stick clip it you shouldn't be on it! "It's dangerous " Top rope it then, better still stay in the gym. This outlook is part of why everything is being closed. Remember, It's for your safety.😂
Racism and discrimination is alive and well in Australia, just not in the way you would think. You can say no to people joining your dance club based on race. They now have race specific voting in Australia. There's also race based legal services and race based medical services but only if you identify as an Australian Aboriginal.
When the only attempt to engage with the Aboriginal ownership and history of Gariwerd is a bit of crappy stock didgeridoo music (we moved right on past the "Cave of Man Hands" bouldering there without a peep about the name), I actually came away with a bit more sympathy as to why the Aboriginal groups are a bit pissed off and pushing for as much legal archeological protection as possible.
The name is a joke, a reference to "the cave of little hands" which mocks someones small hands. There is only are at Millenium I think, everwhere else has rock quarries. See this video. ua-cam.com/video/zRlGk0VIbVM/v-deo.html
all the things he mentioned to do around grampians at 1:40 ish are litterally all banned...
Loved watching this, well shot. Seeing all those areas which are now banned or soon to be banned makes me very sad though
Why are they going to be banned?
@@PsychonauticRyan They are banned. The traditional owners basically don't like climbing, they don't like the chalk on the rock and think it's disrespectful. Essentially there are a lot of rock quarries that have been found at the cliffs and they're using that as an excuse to ban climbing at those cliffs.
@@PsychonauticRyan in a word, drama, in more words, look it up, its an absolute travesty and if the climbing community would have you believe it its all conspiracy of the parks service to remove rock climbers from the park. But i don't know the full details off by heart, it was a BIG thing in 2019
@@seanmaguire9950 as far as I understood, it isn't even the natives who dislike climbing, but park VIC. I was there early to mid 2019 when the bans started.
No evidence from park VIC that the climbers did any real damage, super inflated or even made up figures and accusations. All in the name of protecting native heritage, which is a fair enough reason, but not when the claims are done by the party that exploits the area and without any backing up at all.
Also, there had been no warning or dialogue beforehand so the climbers could redeem themselves. Still makes me mad
I read somewhere that it basically comes down to the same thing that happens everywhere, money. Native groups wanted to take over management of some of the land, as it will give them access to the funding that goes with the management. They used the damage to historical sites as a proxy for this. The parks board controlling the land currently didn’t want to lose control and funding. So they launched a targeted campaign against climbers blaming them for the damage etc. to try portray an image that they were doing something about the protection of historical sites. Most of the damage seemed to be completely fabricated or had nothing to do with climbers. As I said initially, this is something I just read, so could be untrue. However, when it comes to politics is there ever such a thing as “truth”. The story makes sense to me as an outsider and knowing how badly authorities manage public land. Sucks either way for the climbers in that area.
Really enjoyed these vlogs first time around. Really hope a solution can be found to the ban on climbing on the Taipan wall. 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Instablaster.
Free the Grampians!!!!!
Awsome video, just makes me a bit sad seeing all these spots that can't be enjoyed at rhe moment.
Props to Reuben who i used to climb with.
That's a great video, especially when I am familiar with the places that were featured. So looking forward to the winter video. Yes, Australia is a great climbing place but Park Victoria is curtailing climbing in a somewhat not so nice manner.
This was siiiiiick. Can't wait to go one day!
Lotsa fun editing in this one, I like
Missed this vlog so much! Thanks guys for amazing content as always!
Im very fortunate as an American boulderer to climb over there before the closures
Neat stuff
I've been waiting for the next installment
The musik at Josh's V10 flash go cracked me up :D
great video!
Only 2 of the climbs featured are still open for use unfortunately
Which ones, some boulders? I think they're all banned aren't they, Touchstone Pictures = banned, Taipan banned, Eureka banned, Muline banned. Not sure about the boulders but most of those are banned.
Yep just Butcher's Choice and When We Were Kings
Yeah just the two gen mentioned, unfortunately butcher's is most likely banned early 2021 as well. Rumour has it kindergarten and Andersons may reopen with limits on group sizes, crash pads etc and possibly taipan also, with exception of the quarry sites they discovered which has some bouldering around it
Hope you did this pre the ban. Its hard enough to negotiate with the bureaucrats at Parks Victoria without the chalk marks at 5:50 in your (lovely) video providing ample evidence of the impact of climbers. Routes I have enjoyed for decades at Stapylton are banned, so we need to be really diplomatic.
Hey George this was pre ban, thanks for watching 🙏
Steve and Kate are teh best :) I think every climb shown in the video is currently banned, there's talk about Taipan maybe opening. Basically anything you'd travel around the world to climb=banned, funny that isn't it?
Great trip but where did you left you dog?
If ever there was proof that just because something's a tradition, doesn't mean it's a good idea.... I'd say this is it. =|
My thoughts exactly. I'm spending nearly every weekend replacing substandard bolts and having to rethink bolt layouts from scratch due to ridiculously huge runouts above ledges, bolts way off line, bolts placed AFTER crux moves, etc, etc. when I'd far rather simply go out and climb. On Saturday we'll tackle a wall with close to ground-fall potential from the top of the route due to "minimalist" bolting - these routes have not been climbed in 20 years because of this - a waste of good stone. Completely point less maintaining a 'tradition' when the original concept was hopelessly flawed to begin with!
@@GregHartSk8er Taipan has trad placements on some climbs so it's not as runout as it's made to be in the video, it's mixed climbing. Although some are stupidly runout.
You guys should head to Malaysia. Esp Perlis
Pretty obvious nobody gives a .... about climbing in oz. Grow up and bolt things properly...
nice editting!
Does Vitamin I stand for Imbuprofen? :-D
okay what's vitamin I?
Ibuprofen!
Taipan was bolted ground up?
Guys for nearly every single location in this video, climbing and bouldering are banned, you can't go there any more.
The origins of the bolting ethics was 1. because we had balls back then and 2. we respected the rock, the bush and the fact that there's others people out there and covering a beautiful rock in shiny ringbolts, fixed hangers and chalk stains is just plain old selfish. Instead we would only place a carrot Bolt when absolutely necessary and because carrots are harder to see.
If you need to stick clip it you shouldn't be on it!
"It's dangerous "
Top rope it then, better still stay in the gym.
This outlook is part of why everything is being closed.
Remember, It's for your safety.😂
Shame it's all banned now.
You guys offset the carbon you burn on these trips ?
haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
A shame you basically can't climb hard routes or boulders there anymore
Racism and discrimination is alive and well in Australia, just not in the way you would think.
You can say no to people joining your dance club based on race.
They now have race specific voting in Australia.
There's also race based legal services and race based medical services but only if you identify as an Australian Aboriginal.
Fuck up .
I remeber this climbing ethic - FUCKING CHEAP AND HARD !
Just Bolts - without ...
Hard Mindstuff !!!
You’re crazy
When the only attempt to engage with the Aboriginal ownership and history of Gariwerd is a bit of crappy stock didgeridoo music (we moved right on past the "Cave of Man Hands" bouldering there without a peep about the name), I actually came away with a bit more sympathy as to why the Aboriginal groups are a bit pissed off and pushing for as much legal archeological protection as possible.
The name is a joke, a reference to "the cave of little hands" which mocks someones small hands. There is only are at Millenium I think, everwhere else has rock quarries. See this video. ua-cam.com/video/zRlGk0VIbVM/v-deo.html
Literally cannot watch this with all the cuts and quick edits.