You are a pioneer and an asset to the RR community. Thank you so much for everything you're doing! I'd be willing to pay for shipping of the rest of the materials to NJ. However, I really want you to use it in the doors.
Nice vid. I done the same to my 23 ranger wildtrak (Australian delivered) I only put on 1 layer but made a big difference. I ended up putting vacuum pipe between back seat and roof to prop up back while I done front. You have to get camera behind rear view mirror recalibrated though. Australian rangers have USB port in behind rear view mirror for dash cams. Door panels are a lot easier than the roof. Pop of silver trim and 2 torx screws in there. And 2 screw bottom of door. Rest are clips. If you start at bottom rear corner. You will be ok.
that's a great idea for holding the headliner in place while doing the work... if i take it down again for anything i will totally use that trick! i didn't get the camera recalibrated (maybe i should have) but everything still works perfectly so i dont wanna mess with that
right on... you wont regret it, just be careful while you are cutting and placing it... i didn't realize how sharp that foil was... nasty paper cut material right there and lots of sheet metal in the edges to catch your knuckles on! Good luck and thanks for the comment.
You’re going to know this truck better than you know yourself… You’re working at a factory level and should be commended great job!!!! Every UA-cam content creator has that “one” video that rules them all, you the one where it just comes together this might be it… Keep going see you in the next one…
You are a brave man! Not to mention sending me to the poor house with all the fun toys! Love the content! I am conflicted, I love the sound of the exhaust in Baja mode.
13:16 on the plastic trim behind the rear view mirror fixed against the windscreen there is a rectangular indentation where the overseas RR will have a USB-A port meant for dashcams. Looks like the US spec does not have that.
that is interesting... i wish we had that, i am going to have to run power from somewhere else because i plan on installing my dash cam this weekend as well.
awesome! how do you like the Nissan? is it the Titan or the Frontier? good luck on the install... it will be worth it in the end but it is certainly a pain in the neck!
perfect timing sir! I have my roof rack laying around in the garage and was not brave enough to start dismantling the headliner. great info on doing this! I noticed little funny differencies to the european version: we have a handle on the A-pillar. but we have the seat memory buttons deleted 😀 for the gutter trim: I guess there are screws/nuts also in the back? I was thinking about putting a bubble foil type insulation while in there. it is lightweight, will probably do some little sound insulation, but will help with heat during the summer.
I think some sort of foam insulation would work better for heat than a bubble wrap type thing but anything will be better than just the headliner against the metal! Good luck... getting it back on without breaking the clips in the back was the hard part for me! maybe go to the local garage and get a few clips in case you break one so you dont have to take it all apart again to fix anything a week later! If you can get someone to help you it would be so much easier with a second set of hands. I thing getting the head liner out with the seats down would be best but putting it back in was pretty great to have the seats up and i put the head rests back in to get it up nice and high so you gotta pick your poison there... i wouldn't reconnect the battery without having the airbags plugged in. not sure what would happen but dont think i would want to find out.
yeah, i did that today based on some other people with the same idea, i'll post the video of it in a few hours once i edit it up... it makes a HUGE difference!
I did my RR door rubber sound deadening, the audio shop did the roof for other Ranger and he vouched doing the doors is more effective and less expensive, you should try it next instead of door panels
haha, i think i may take on the door panels and see if i can use up the rest of this to get the truck even quieter inside! but last time i looked at taking the door panel off a month ago i gave up after just getting the window switches off because it looked too daunting. but that was before i took the head liner off... now door panels seem like childs play!
You could put the rest of the sound deadening in the doors. I’ve had good results with that and far easier than dropping the head liner. (At least on the vehicles I worked on). Or behind the back seat. That would tighten up your bass.
Yeah, behind the back seat would be easy. Getting the door panels off is a pain but I think I may do that. The only problem is pulling that nasty vapor barrier down with the black tar/goop and getting it back on correctly.
@flaberdoopin - How did you remove the power clip for the sun visor? I've been at this for 2 hours now and it's mangled to hell. It still wont come off.
I used a trim tool to pop it out starting at the back near the sunglasses case and then worked forward from there. There were not any screws, so it will pop out with pressure. If you watch the first part of the video (in the first minute) you can see the clips if you pause it to know where to put the pry tool. Hope that helps
@@flaberdoopin Oh, no I meant getting the sun visor off. I ended up mangling the passenger side so bad that I just ripped it off. Now, there are just bare wires there. The good part was that I used that mangled one to figure out that the actual release clip was hidden under the Tessa tape, so I got the driver's off no problem. Now, I need to figure out where I can get a replacement clip to but back on those bare wires.
Oh bummer. Sorry you had such a tough time getting it off. I guess I didn’t go into as much detail as I should have. The wires are just for the mirror light but be sure to tape them up in the mean time so it doesn’t short out and blow a fuse or even cause a spark or fire!
What is the trick to getting the back clips off; Meaning the back two at the back of the cap on the ceiling. I started to just try to pull down on the ceiling panel and the glue started to tear away a little from the clip. I"m trying to use a trim pry tool on the clip, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.
@@wellslarsen6744dude, the back clips are the worse. I broke one of them. I have found that it is better to try to go quick with a solid jerking motion. I put my hand in there from the pax door area and when I got close to the clip I just pushed down hard from above the headliner. It sucks for sure but they are just clips so commit to it and give it a yank!
I think the second layer will keep some heat out, the first layer will just slow it down but end up getting heat soaked and make it take a little longer to cool down once you start it up
I am not sure, but my app iPhone reads 66 dbs on hwy at 70mph in my 2020 TRD OR prem. tacoma, with K02s and everyone says Raptor is quieter so your numbers seem high. Think its time to tell the wife never mind what I do with my truck!
yeah, i dont know how accurate these iphone db measurements are but i figured i am doing all of the tests with the same device so the differences are going to show improvement, but i dont think they would be useful to compare to another devices measurements.
It turns out the dome light is right next to a magnet that attaches to a piece of metal than hangs down a bit from the roof. If yours is flimsy, try pushing in front of the light a bit to see if you can reattach that magnet. Mine is pretty solid
I am going to look into the door panels again today. i was waiting for someone like crutchfield to do a video taking the door panels apart so i dont break something because i missed a hidden screw or something.
I ended up using it all but I’m gonna be buying more in a few days to do the back wall behind the rear seat and the floor pan. If I have extra after that I’ll let you know
I have instagram but I haven’t posted since I was doing surf photography back in 2015 timeframe I think. Insta is @underpants_float maybe I’ll start posting there again
i went with SILESS sound deadener and 3-in-1 hybrid insulation and i bought it from amazon. 3 in 1 insulation: a.co/d/6T4gfqO sound deadener: a.co/d/eZTFr3j roller set: a.co/d/4iZIzyV
you have to be right... it was a serious pain. if i were doing it, i would have put it in before the front or back windows as well because there is a lip above the rear sliding window that the head liner has to go above. I think when i reinstalled it i didnt' get it all the way back, i think i am about 1/4 inch forward of where it was when i took it off but i couldn't get it to move back any more. Oh well... it isn't noticeable.
Yeah, I say the wrong thing all the time, socket wrenched, box wrenches, open ended wrenches, and so on, the are all wrenches, but I get what you are saying
You are a pioneer and an asset to the RR community. Thank you so much for everything you're doing! I'd be willing to pay for shipping of the rest of the materials to NJ. However, I really want you to use it in the doors.
I will look into taking door panels off, but last time I checked it was pretty tough looking
Nice vid. I done the same to my 23 ranger wildtrak (Australian delivered) I only put on 1 layer but made a big difference. I ended up putting vacuum pipe between back seat and roof to prop up back while I done front. You have to get camera behind rear view mirror recalibrated though. Australian rangers have USB port in behind rear view mirror for dash cams. Door panels are a lot easier than the roof. Pop of silver trim and 2 torx screws in there. And 2 screw bottom of door. Rest are clips. If you start at bottom rear corner. You will be ok.
that's a great idea for holding the headliner in place while doing the work... if i take it down again for anything i will totally use that trick! i didn't get the camera recalibrated (maybe i should have) but everything still works perfectly so i dont wanna mess with that
You have convinced me to do mine. Appreciate all the videos you have been putting out. Also, thanks for your service, Sir.
right on... you wont regret it, just be careful while you are cutting and placing it... i didn't realize how sharp that foil was... nasty paper cut material right there and lots of sheet metal in the edges to catch your knuckles on! Good luck and thanks for the comment.
You’re going to know this truck better than you know yourself… You’re working at a factory level and should be commended great job!!!! Every UA-cam content creator has that “one” video that rules them all, you the one where it just comes together this might be it… Keep going see you in the next one…
Wow, thanks so much. I’m having a lot of fun making these videos and playing with this awesome truck
You are a brave man! Not to mention sending me to the poor house with all the fun toys! Love the content! I am conflicted, I love the sound of the exhaust in Baja mode.
You can still hear the exhaust, it just reduces the reverberation of the road noise and wind noise.
13:16 on the plastic trim behind the rear view mirror fixed against the windscreen there is a rectangular indentation where the overseas RR will have a USB-A port meant for dashcams. Looks like the US spec does not have that.
Yeah noticed that too, we have them here in Dubai as well.
that is interesting... i wish we had that, i am going to have to run power from somewhere else because i plan on installing my dash cam this weekend as well.
@@flaberdoopin can’t wait to see the video!
Well, after watching your videos I did muster the courage to take my socket set out to my Ranger and adjust some things that were driving me nuts.
Right on! every little bit helps! Cheers
Great job! You’ve inspired me to do this when I install my Prinsu roof rack on my Nissan Pro 4X. Keep up the great work.
awesome! how do you like the Nissan? is it the Titan or the Frontier? good luck on the install... it will be worth it in the end but it is certainly a pain in the neck!
@@flaberdoopin Frontier.
perfect timing sir! I have my roof rack laying around in the garage and was not brave enough to start dismantling the headliner. great info on doing this!
I noticed little funny differencies to the european version: we have a handle on the A-pillar. but we have the seat memory buttons deleted 😀
for the gutter trim: I guess there are screws/nuts also in the back?
I was thinking about putting a bubble foil type insulation while in there. it is lightweight, will probably do some little sound insulation, but will help with heat during the summer.
I think some sort of foam insulation would work better for heat than a bubble wrap type thing but anything will be better than just the headliner against the metal! Good luck... getting it back on without breaking the clips in the back was the hard part for me! maybe go to the local garage and get a few clips in case you break one so you dont have to take it all apart again to fix anything a week later! If you can get someone to help you it would be so much easier with a second set of hands. I thing getting the head liner out with the seats down would be best but putting it back in was pretty great to have the seats up and i put the head rests back in to get it up nice and high so you gotta pick your poison there... i wouldn't reconnect the battery without having the airbags plugged in. not sure what would happen but dont think i would want to find out.
good to know about the driver's side oh-crap handle. Some speculation that it could be carried over from the Aussie model, sounds like a no.
Yeah, it’s a bummer. I was trying to order one from overseas but now that I know the bracket isn’t there I’ll be passing on that
Gotta salute you! It’s a neck killing job. Well done. I wish I can have it done on mine.
thanks, it was a pain for sure. heck of a shoulder workout rolling all of that stuff on there!
You should use the rest for I side the door panel. It will make the stereo sound a lot better.
yeah, i did that today based on some other people with the same idea, i'll post the video of it in a few hours once i edit it up... it makes a HUGE difference!
I did my RR door rubber sound deadening, the audio shop did the roof for other Ranger and he vouched doing the doors is more effective and less expensive, you should try it next instead of door panels
I did the door panels the next day and it did help a bit more.
lol I still have a half a box left lol
Ford should sponsor you, this was an amazing video lol
haha, i think i may take on the door panels and see if i can use up the rest of this to get the truck even quieter inside! but last time i looked at taking the door panel off a month ago i gave up after just getting the window switches off because it looked too daunting. but that was before i took the head liner off... now door panels seem like childs play!
You could put the rest of the sound deadening in the doors. I’ve had good results with that and far easier than dropping the head liner. (At least on the vehicles I worked on). Or behind the back seat. That would tighten up your bass.
LOL think about an other project for you.
Yeah, behind the back seat would be easy. Getting the door panels off is a pain but I think I may do that. The only problem is pulling that nasty vapor barrier down with the black tar/goop and getting it back on correctly.
I'd like to see those bolts on the roof to have racks in it 😁 i have the xl and i want to diy a roofrack made of alluminum extrusions
i can go through the footage and pull out the part with those bolts if that will help!
@@flaberdoopin that would be awesome 😁
When I sat in one at the dealer, I noticed this echoing sound when using the aux switches that are mounted on head liner, is it better now?
100%. No more hollow sound when flipping the switches
Thank you for your efforts
right on... hopefully it was helpful to anyone considering this project!
@flaberdoopin - How did you remove the power clip for the sun visor? I've been at this for 2 hours now and it's mangled to hell. It still wont come off.
I used a trim tool to pop it out starting at the back near the sunglasses case and then worked forward from there. There were not any screws, so it will pop out with pressure. If you watch the first part of the video (in the first minute) you can see the clips if you pause it to know where to put the pry tool. Hope that helps
@@flaberdoopin Oh, no I meant getting the sun visor off. I ended up mangling the passenger side so bad that I just ripped it off. Now, there are just bare wires there. The good part was that I used that mangled one to figure out that the actual release clip was hidden under the Tessa tape, so I got the driver's off no problem. Now, I need to figure out where I can get a replacement clip to but back on those bare wires.
Oh bummer. Sorry you had such a tough time getting it off. I guess I didn’t go into as much detail as I should have. The wires are just for the mirror light but be sure to tape them up in the mean time so it doesn’t short out and blow a fuse or even cause a spark or fire!
What is the trick to getting the back clips off; Meaning the back two at the back of the cap on the ceiling. I started to just try to pull down on the ceiling panel and the glue started to tear away a little from the clip. I"m trying to use a trim pry tool on the clip, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.
@@wellslarsen6744dude, the back clips are the worse. I broke one of them. I have found that it is better to try to go quick with a solid jerking motion. I put my hand in there from the pax door area and when I got close to the clip I just pushed down hard from above the headliner. It sucks for sure but they are just clips so commit to it and give it a yank!
Awesome shirt...where did ya get it?
Haha, some awesome people gave it to me as a birthday present!
Thank you
I have a Ranger in Thailand. Do you think this sound deadening panel is resistant to heat?
I think the second layer will keep some heat out, the first layer will just slow it down but end up getting heat soaked and make it take a little longer to cool down once you start it up
I am not sure, but my app iPhone reads 66 dbs on hwy at 70mph in my 2020 TRD OR prem. tacoma, with K02s and everyone says Raptor is quieter so your numbers seem high. Think its time to tell the wife never mind what I do with my truck!
yeah, i dont know how accurate these iphone db measurements are but i figured i am doing all of the tests with the same device so the differences are going to show improvement, but i dont think they would be useful to compare to another devices measurements.
Does your dome light flimsy up when pressed to turn on and off. Like not solid ?
It turns out the dome light is right next to a magnet that attaches to a piece of metal than hangs down a bit from the roof. If yours is flimsy, try pushing in front of the light a bit to see if you can reattach that magnet. Mine is pretty solid
@ that’s got to be it. I’ll try.
Let me know if that works. Cheers
@ yes the glue came undone on that white plastic piece so I got it out and fixed it. Now it’s all good.
You should dynamat the floor
That is a pretty awesome idea. I may do that
@@flaberdoopin ya always do it with my vehicles. If my raptor ever shows up I will do it and the roof, thx to your vid
Do Inside of the doors also.
it was a big job for sure but TOTALLY worth it
I am going to look into the door panels again today. i was waiting for someone like crutchfield to do a video taking the door panels apart so i dont break something because i missed a hidden screw or something.
hey you got any leftover sound deadener? i need like 4 sheets of each so i can finish my roof as well :D
I ended up using it all but I’m gonna be buying more in a few days to do the back wall behind the rear seat and the floor pan. If I have extra after that I’ll let you know
I’m just gonna do the same thing. 😂 do you have an instagram to follow?
I have instagram but I haven’t posted since I was doing surf photography back in 2015 timeframe I think. Insta is @underpants_float maybe I’ll start posting there again
@@flaberdoopinok followed
What kit did you buy, and from where?
i went with SILESS sound deadener and 3-in-1 hybrid insulation and i bought it from amazon. 3 in 1 insulation: a.co/d/6T4gfqO
sound deadener: a.co/d/eZTFr3j
roller set: a.co/d/4iZIzyV
Does it keep the interior cooler to?
it should... it says it is a thermal barrier as well. time will tell
Let’s hope so. The NOVA summer is already here!
Guarantee the headliner is installed, or at least inserted into the truck before the windshield...
you have to be right... it was a serious pain. if i were doing it, i would have put it in before the front or back windows as well because there is a lip above the rear sliding window that the head liner has to go above. I think when i reinstalled it i didnt' get it all the way back, i think i am about 1/4 inch forward of where it was when i took it off but i couldn't get it to move back any more. Oh well... it isn't noticeable.
Yup...
No more roll up headliners with tensioning rods, like my old 66 Mustang!
They are sockets not wrenches.
Yeah, I say the wrong thing all the time, socket wrenched, box wrenches, open ended wrenches, and so on, the are all wrenches, but I get what you are saying
I would do the door panels.
If you don’t, I’ll throw my hat in the ring to take the extra off your hands.
I’ll let you know for sure. If I don’t do the doors or floor I’ll send it to you