Thanks, and I agree with you, plaques are fun! It's been a while; I should dig out my pattern and cast a door sign for my casting shed, that would be good test of my new pattern letters as well...
I like the shield shape, kind of reminds me of highway signs in the US. One thing that does look strange is that the numeral one has serifs, but the four does not have serifs.
The font I used was times new roman. I you want to open up microsoft word and change the font to times new roman then type in 14 and magnify it . You will see that the one has a serif but the four has none. and yes I wondered why the four has no serifs.
I deeply respect the fact that you are no shy to talk about your mistake (especially when the camera did 't want to tell all the truth!) Greeeat tips, very nice youtube video, sharing with the universe just because you are a nice man. Love from Montréal, Canada
Nice iron pour, you're showing off your skills with the bell! The shield is unique for a house number. A single or double digit makes it work. Plexi is my favorite plaque base.
It was for a friend and I copied it from the big boy loco number plate. I gave up a long time ago on using plywood for plaque bases as they chip the edges, also perspex / plexi is so smooth to use as a pattern.
Your perserverance and practicality is an inspiration, Lucky! I'm still learning but hope to be good enough to one day make a shattered iron pot that has been in the family forever whole again with the same material.
Despite the mishap with the Route 14 sign pattern (sorry, I couldn't help myself), castings came out very well and you passed a lot of significant information about the whole process. Thanks!
I love this sign. It is a beauty. In the states we use a shield with numbers on it as highway signs. This number plate could be for state highway fourteen.
Thank you for watching this video. House numbers are my favorite casting to pour in iron. I got the idea from the number plate on the big boy locomotive.
Yup the shield works nicely. Actually surprised that bell didn't go white . Would have been my bet, and my money lost lololol. Thank you for sharing this. 🙏 Blessed day and well wishes Sir Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
Would sawdust perhaps be a bit coarse? Wood flour - easily produced via a sanding disc - might be better or possibly even corn or wheat flour... Martin PS. Did you get my reply re our common "friend"?
Nice shape of the plaque, I cast most of my plaques in alloy or brass, I sieve a thin layer of petrobond on the face side then back up with greensand, & all greensand in the cope I then fettle,sand blast & etch prime with 2 pack etch primer then spray paint 2 coats of vehicle enamel.& hand paint details with vehicle enamel.keep up the vid's I enjoy them. Graham.
I have tried an etch primer on aluminuim but does not seem to work so I just spray the colour on without it. Years later the paint never peels of but fades with the hot Australian sun.
@@luckygen1001 Hi,I tried hammersh**e smooth direct & it just peeled but the 2 pack is ICI acid etch & it really bonds to the metal,not a lover of hammerite,you must have different paint over there to us in uk [my daughter lives in ozz] can't go back over for now not letting anyone in to perth, I love going to bunnings!!. take care. Graham.
@@luckygen1001 hello master!! Now I'm very close to my first try melting iron. I purchased also 20Kg of ferrosilicon and the last step is annealing the salamander crucibles, but I'm not very sure how I'm going to do it because I don't have an electric furnace to make a slow heating ramp. Maybe I'll heat it slowly in my cooking oven to eliminate moisture and then to the burner furnace. Do you have any recommendations with crucible heat treatment? Best regards
@@dgalvarez If you read the label on the crucible there is a part that says " ready annealed". I always put a new crucible in the furnace and melt iron with it. If you are unsure about annealing it contact the person who sold you the crucible and ask for their advice. I hope your first iron melt goes well and make a video of it.
@@luckygen1001 I've just finished my first cast iron melt. I've learned that I must have a proper tool to eliminate the slag. Temperatures are so high. I forgot to add a cardboard behind the crucible and the brick sticked to the crucible, but I managed to unstick it after another heat. My ingot mold (made from steel) isn't a good choice because the ingot melt the surface of the mold in the pouring spot. I'll prepare a video soon but I'm quite happy. 😃😊
I must say, I'm not a fan of the shield but it depends on the context. It's probably going to look better on a stone entry gate post than on a contemporary house wall. The casting looks first rate though. Regards, Preso
Thank you for watching my video. I wanted to make some thing different from the usual house number for a friend so the shield seemed to be the best idea.
Hi been a sub here for a couple years now so I think you've already covered this but I can't remember the video so I figured I'd just ask, anyway, how long does it take to melt the iron and about how much as in the quantity of fuel is consumed in the process.
A mans/womans home is their Castle and the shield design follows with that idea so I Like the Shield. In respect to coal dust perhaps some charcoal from a wood fire could be used after being ground into a powder form as a substitute. Just my thoughts and as always an excellent video. Cheers from John, Australia.
Thanks for watching my video. You could try charcoal but it does not burn the way that coal dust does. It needs to burn with a smokey flame. I keep on thinking that you are from Queensland, am I right?
@@luckygen1001 Born in Footscray and live and have half an hr North of Newcastle in a town called Medowie at the Western end of Port Stephens Shire. Been here since 1977. Cheers from John.
I have yet to cast iron but I am slowly gearing up for it. I expected that bell to too hard to drill. Did you use more ferrosilicon than you normally do? If not what was the magic? And thanks for the great video.
I use 0.25% ferrosilicon for all other cast irons but for disc brake rotors I add 0.35%. If you can watch Windyhill foundry videos as he only uses rotors for his melts and you could ask him how much he adds.
Hey buddy.👋👋 I have seen yours videos and I believes that you can solve my problem.😅 I am finding difficulty in melting steel. 😣😔It's is not becoming fluid or liquid. #So can you please tell me which "chemical or element" I can mix with steel to lower it's melting point#
Since coal is mostly carbon, I wonder if a good substitute for coal dust can be found in a commercially manufactured product, like graphite, or case hardening compound, like Kasonit or some such. If a foundry could adapt to a manufactured coal dust substitute, the process may have a higher reliability since the chemistry of the material is likely more tightly controlled.
@@luckygen1001 I ran into the problem a long time ago with an outdated graphics card and lack of RAM. My computer crashed so many times and I eventually quit due to insufficient tools. Sometimes it’s best to stick what works. Anyway, your videos are still enjoyable to watch thanks for sharing them with us.
If i were you i would spend some considerable time researching the topic. cast iron has a melt temp in excess 1400K a decent understanding of the risks and properties of various materials in excess of that temperature is a must for your own safety. but as a bit of info you need a furnace that can reaach the temp for melting iron, you also need a crucible that can withstand the temps required to melt iron and you need a number of tools and safety procedures in order to handle the molten iron. if you need to ask the above question i think there is a considerable amount of knowledge you are lacking in order to do so safely, there are plenty of books on the topic and numerous forums and sites that are packed to the brim with all the basics and more. to start with i would watch a number of videos on the topic of casting in general to make sure its something you are interested in and to get passive apreciation of the risks and costs of starting to melt metal. i hope that helps
@@lewispowell1681 yes, it does, I have some small experience casting softer metals, not claiming to be a pro. Is there any books you would personally recommend?
@@samiam7 so my favourite in terms of basics is definately the mini casting handbook by john campbel. i wouldnt reccomend buying it as it is imo fairly pricey at £20 but i think there are a few pdfs floating about if you cant get it from the library (dont bother with his textbook level works though, he basis a lot of his writing on his own hypothesis which is not very well substantiated experimentally). another which ive found for free online in pdf and is quite extensive is the us navy casting manual, i cant recall of the top of my head its true name however it is very extensive in its coverage of the practical aplication of casting and is written very much for the person with a minimum of background in the area. if you are interested in the properties of cast materials and how they can be manipulated through manufacture i would say there is a lot of materials science textbooks which do the subject justice, they tend to vary wildly in price from £5 used to £300+ new and the price is no indicator of the quality so its something to research for yourself which is best. i would say a good place to start for this is to visit a few reputable university websites and look at the courses they do for either materials science, materials engineering or engineering disciplines and look at their reading lists for the modules on materials, the vast majority of universities make their reading lists public and you will probably find a few titles are recomended time and time again by multiple universities (this has the side advantage that they can often be found in pdf format or cheap second hand with relative ease) sorry this is such a long reply, i hope it helps, sorry if im not more speciffic in my recomendations, i find that i get on best with books ive discovered through my own searching rather than direct recomendations and thus id rather point you to where to find out good books than name a few specifics you may find difficult to get on with
The shield looks good, castings came out great!
Thank you. I have watched your videos and you make some really nice plaques.
Thanks, and I agree with you, plaques are fun! It's been a while; I should dig out my pattern and cast a door sign for my casting shed, that would be good test of my new pattern letters as well...
Looks good Matey 😁🍻👊🏻🇦🇺
Big d! How's that stack coming?
Instead of making cast iron ingots you should make a house number for your place.
instaBlaster...
I like the shield shape, kind of reminds me of highway signs in the US.
One thing that does look strange is that the numeral one has serifs, but the four does not have serifs.
a mix of serif and sans-serif is odd
The font I used was times new roman. I you want to open up microsoft word and change the font to times new roman then type in 14 and magnify it .
You will see that the one has a serif but the four has none. and yes I wondered why the four has no serifs.
I deeply respect the fact that you are no shy to talk about your mistake (especially when the camera did 't want to tell all the truth!)
Greeeat tips, very nice youtube video, sharing with the universe just because you are a nice man.
Love from Montréal, Canada
Nice to see you back with some new content. Yea, a shield is a nice shape.
What a beautiful plaque~ love the shield!
Nice iron pour, you're showing off your skills with the bell!
The shield is unique for a house number. A single or double digit makes it work. Plexi is my favorite plaque base.
It was for a friend and I copied it from the big boy loco number plate. I gave up a long time ago on using plywood for plaque bases as they chip the edges, also perspex / plexi is so smooth to use as a pattern.
The shield looks good, it would look good in brass too with a brushed shield and the numbers polished.
Yep brass is the go to metal for plaques but I have a lot of trouble casting brass.
The house number is pretty cool !
Glad to see you well...great video as always.
Thank you for watching the video. This is the first time I have heard from you in a while.
I like the shield design. Much respect.
Your perserverance and practicality is an inspiration, Lucky! I'm still learning but hope to be good enough to one day make a shattered iron pot that has been in the family forever whole again with the same material.
Thin cast iron can be very difficult to fill up the mold, it is not the casting to try for your first time melting cast iron.
@@luckygen1001 yes sir, it's a long term goal that I hope to one day achieve but one I've seen is possible through your channel.
Despite the mishap with the Route 14 sign pattern (sorry, I couldn't help myself), castings came out very well and you passed a lot of significant information about the whole process. Thanks!
I laugh every time I see that clip. There are a lot of points about cast iron that are missed on youtube videos so I hope to fill in those gaps.
@@luckygen1001 Most of your videos bring attention to points that are not normally mentioned - they're always a source of good and unique information.
Going for a drive on rout 14..
Looks really good man.
Something about the image quality gives this the feel of something that was shot in the 70's or something.
So that means that you watched the video and liked it?
Great vid as ever! Cheers!
Wonderful as usual
I love this sign. It is a beauty. In the states we use a shield with numbers on it as highway signs. This number plate could be for state highway fourteen.
Thank you for watching this video. House numbers are my favorite casting to pour in iron. I got the idea from the number plate on the big boy locomotive.
Yup the shield works nicely.
Actually surprised that bell didn't go white . Would have been my bet, and my money lost lololol.
Thank you for sharing this.
🙏 Blessed day and well wishes Sir
Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
So did I and if I was a betting man I would have lost big time.
As great as allways !👍❤
Excellent job, that sine looks alsome.
I like the shield. If the mounting room is available I think the shield might look striking on a disc shaped background
That"s a good idea.
Would sawdust perhaps be a bit coarse? Wood flour - easily produced via a sanding disc - might be better or possibly even corn or wheat flour... Martin
PS. Did you get my reply re our common "friend"?
I missed it because it was in the spam folder, I just sent a reply.
I like the shield.
I appreciate your videos, I have made a furnace but can't find the time to use it. Seems something else is always going on
Nice shape of the plaque, I cast most of my plaques in alloy or brass, I sieve a thin layer of petrobond on the face side then back up with greensand, & all greensand in the cope I then fettle,sand blast & etch prime with 2 pack etch primer then spray paint 2 coats of vehicle enamel.& hand paint details with vehicle enamel.keep up the vid's I enjoy them.
Graham.
I have tried an etch primer on aluminuim but does not seem to work so I just spray the colour on without it. Years later the paint never peels of but fades with the hot Australian sun.
@@luckygen1001 Hi,I tried hammersh**e smooth direct & it just peeled but the 2 pack is ICI acid etch & it really bonds to the metal,not a lover of hammerite,you must have different paint over there to us in uk [my daughter lives in ozz] can't go back over for now not letting anyone in to perth, I love going to bunnings!!. take care.
Graham.
Hello!! Thanks for the video!! What type of crucible do you use? Graphite clay salamander? Thanks and keep us enjoying your videos :D
Yes I do.
@@luckygen1001 hello master!! Now I'm very close to my first try melting iron. I purchased also 20Kg of ferrosilicon and the last step is annealing the salamander crucibles, but I'm not very sure how I'm going to do it because I don't have an electric furnace to make a slow heating ramp. Maybe I'll heat it slowly in my cooking oven to eliminate moisture and then to the burner furnace. Do you have any recommendations with crucible heat treatment? Best regards
@@dgalvarez If you read the label on the crucible there is a part that says " ready annealed". I always put a new crucible in the furnace and melt iron with it. If you are unsure about annealing it contact the person who sold you the crucible and ask for their advice. I hope your first iron melt goes well and make a video of it.
@@luckygen1001 I've just finished my first cast iron melt. I've learned that I must have a proper tool to eliminate the slag. Temperatures are so high. I forgot to add a cardboard behind the crucible and the brick sticked to the crucible, but I managed to unstick it after another heat. My ingot mold (made from steel) isn't a good choice because the ingot melt the surface of the mold in the pouring spot. I'll prepare a video soon but I'm quite happy. 😃😊
@@dgalvarez I will look forward to it.
I must say, I'm not a fan of the shield but it depends on the context. It's probably going to look better on a stone entry gate post than on a contemporary house wall. The casting looks first rate though.
Regards, Preso
Thank you for watching my video. I wanted to make some thing different from the usual house number for a friend so the shield seemed to be the best idea.
Hi been a sub here for a couple years now so I think you've already covered this but I can't remember the video so I figured I'd just ask, anyway, how long does it take to melt the iron and about how much as in the quantity of fuel is consumed in the process.
55 minutes and uses 10 liters of waste oil.
@@luckygen1001 Thanks for replying.
Smashing
I like it
A mans/womans home is their Castle and the shield design follows with that idea so I Like the Shield. In respect to coal dust perhaps some charcoal from a wood fire could be used after being ground into a powder form as a substitute. Just my thoughts and as always an excellent video. Cheers from John, Australia.
Thanks for watching my video. You could try charcoal but it does not burn the way that coal dust does. It needs to burn with a smokey flame. I keep on thinking that you are from Queensland, am I right?
@@luckygen1001 Born in Footscray and live and have half an hr North of Newcastle in a town called Medowie at the Western end of Port Stephens Shire. Been here since 1977. Cheers from John.
@@joandar1 Hmmmm I am way of the mark!
@@luckygen1001 All good mate, cheers.
I have yet to cast iron but I am slowly gearing up for it. I expected that bell to too hard to drill. Did you use more ferrosilicon than you normally do? If not what was the magic? And thanks for the great video.
I use 0.25% ferrosilicon for all other cast irons but for disc brake rotors I add 0.35%. If you can watch Windyhill foundry videos as he only uses rotors for his melts and you could ask him how much he adds.
@@luckygen1001 thanks luckygen j will do that
Hey buddy.👋👋
I have seen yours videos and I believes that you can solve my problem.😅
I am finding difficulty in melting steel. 😣😔It's is not becoming fluid or liquid.
#So can you please tell me which "chemical or element" I can mix with steel to lower it's melting point#
Since coal is mostly carbon, I wonder if a good substitute for coal dust can be found in a commercially manufactured product, like graphite, or case hardening compound, like Kasonit or some such. If a foundry could adapt to a manufactured coal dust substitute, the process may have a higher reliability since the chemistry of the material is likely more tightly controlled.
I don't know of any commercial substitute for coal dust.
Muito bom trabalho amigão ! 🖒🖒🖒
Obrigado por assistir meu video amigo.
@@luckygen1001
you're welcome my friend !
God bless you, good luck, to you !
Very nice door number, but would have been even better if it was either in Serif or Sans-Serif font rather than a mix of both.
The font I used was times new roman and the four does not have serifs.
Tremendous
I like watching these videos but I only wish you changed the aspect ratio to 16:9
If I use the 16:9 aspect ratio on my computer it crashes and no one can tell me why.
@@luckygen1001 I ran into the problem a long time ago with an outdated graphics card and lack of RAM. My computer crashed so many times and I eventually quit due to insufficient tools.
Sometimes it’s best to stick what works. Anyway, your videos are still enjoyable to watch thanks for sharing them with us.
Wood flux... cool
Do I need a special forge to be able to melt cast iron?
If i were you i would spend some considerable time researching the topic. cast iron has a melt temp in excess 1400K a decent understanding of the risks and properties of various materials in excess of that temperature is a must for your own safety.
but as a bit of info you need a furnace that can reaach the temp for melting iron, you also need a crucible that can withstand the temps required to melt iron and you need a number of tools and safety procedures in order to handle the molten iron.
if you need to ask the above question i think there is a considerable amount of knowledge you are lacking in order to do so safely, there are plenty of books on the topic and numerous forums and sites that are packed to the brim with all the basics and more. to start with i would watch a number of videos on the topic of casting in general to make sure its something you are interested in and to get passive apreciation of the risks and costs of starting to melt metal.
i hope that helps
@@lewispowell1681 yes, it does, I have some small experience casting softer metals, not claiming to be a pro. Is there any books you would personally recommend?
@@samiam7 so my favourite in terms of basics is definately the mini casting handbook by john campbel. i wouldnt reccomend buying it as it is imo fairly pricey at £20 but i think there are a few pdfs floating about if you cant get it from the library (dont bother with his textbook level works though, he basis a lot of his writing on his own hypothesis which is not very well substantiated experimentally). another which ive found for free online in pdf and is quite extensive is the us navy casting manual, i cant recall of the top of my head its true name however it is very extensive in its coverage of the practical aplication of casting and is written very much for the person with a minimum of background in the area.
if you are interested in the properties of cast materials and how they can be manipulated through manufacture i would say there is a lot of materials science textbooks which do the subject justice, they tend to vary wildly in price from £5 used to £300+ new and the price is no indicator of the quality so its something to research for yourself which is best. i would say a good place to start for this is to visit a few reputable university websites and look at the courses they do for either materials science, materials engineering or engineering disciplines and look at their reading lists for the modules on materials, the vast majority of universities make their reading lists public and you will probably find a few titles are recomended time and time again by multiple universities (this has the side advantage that they can often be found in pdf format or cheap second hand with relative ease)
sorry this is such a long reply, i hope it helps, sorry if im not more speciffic in my recomendations, i find that i get on best with books ive discovered through my own searching rather than direct recomendations and thus id rather point you to where to find out good books than name a few specifics you may find difficult to get on with
powell wonderful. Thank you for the information and your time
@@samiam7 no worries your welcome :D
Shield 👍
If coal dust can't be found, how about crushed charcoal?
No it needs to burn with a smokey flame. I will be making a video in the future about a cheap substitute.
You may have hit it 8 times, the wedge test, but it only took one blow to break it. Just saying
14 eh?
I t seems to me that it's whether or not you or whoever is going to receive the number likes it!!