Dang, this guy is amazing. I know Drago doesn't fit my foot well, so not even going to try those, but I just loved listening to him geeking out on the shoe. So much information compacted in such a short film.
I have had a pair of these for about a month now and they are ridiculously sensitive. I love them so much. I definitely went aggressive on the sizing too and they are remarkably comfortable. Coming from the Sportive Geniuses and I have to say I won't go back after these.
Sorry to revive this but what exactly is the upgrade from the genius? I'm currently rocking the genius and loving them but they need to be resoled soon so I need a new pair and wanted to try this new version? Do you have wide feet or high volume? I have a wide forefoot that is high volume and narrow heels and the geniuses fit me perfectly
Glad I went reviewing this video before getting a couple delivered because I am not sure without stretch I could fit into these at my current size, especially not since I started wearing a half size smaller in the Drago recently and was anticipating the same switch with new Chimeras. The hyperskin is concerning as I would always rather a shoe have a longer but significant break in period was the previous Chimera and current Mago have.
There are perhaps two main reasons why these shoes differ. 1. The fit. The last’s are significantly different and by extension the way they fit and feel. The instinct is much more symmetrical than both the mago and chimera. The mago is very focused on bunching the toes and would have the highest toebox of any scarpa shoe. 2) the specificity. We are of course talking in increments here, you’re right, all three are geared towards similar terrain and holds. Saying that, the chimera is significantly softer than the other two, and also has more sensitivity and toe rubber. It is really designed for modern, indoor climbing as well as steep terrain where smearing, toe hooking and precision footwork is necessary. The mago is really all about precision, very small holds where you need to weight the foot maximally. Still steep terrain but toe hooks are sacrificed. If you’ve sized it properly it may even hurt to toe hook with a mago. Very specialised outdoor routes is where it shines. The instinct lace is much stiffer, will be more optimal where foot fatigue is an issue as it is also less symmetrical meaning less tiring in the foot. It combats sensitivity with stiffness so it edges well but the ability to feel is lessened. Again, I’d say it’s probably designed for outdoor climbing, specially sport or hard trad. It’s little brothers the VS and VSR are more suited to indoor or bouldering, the Velcro being the give away. Obviously any of these shoes could be used for whatever, they’re all great and I think like Heinz says it’s mostly about what holds are on a climb rather than the discipline that matters. Saying that, Scarpa have been really specialising their designs and they have an intended purpose. The Chimera is very specialised, that’s for sure. It’s the kind of shoe you’d want on a very particular climb. Laces give a more precise fit, it has a stiffer edging platform than it’s soft line cousins but it is absolutely a soft shoe that excels in the hooking and smearing game.
Nice to see another Scarpa rep (besides Nathan) geek out about their shoes. Was wondering if there will also be a video on the new Instinct S? I saw a short video on it, but looking forward to a more in-depth lookvideo like this one.
Coming soon-ish! Sooooo many new products to showcase it's going to take a while to get through them all!!! But YES, the Instinct S video is in the que.
great to see you're back! i love those in depth videos. Also how you have the reps compare the shoes to the other models of the brand! Aaand now i just wached 7 Minutes of a video for a shoe i won't wear (drago/instinct combo for me)
About the fit this new model is more like the boostic/booster/mago fit or it stays like the old one with drago and furia? In scarpas comparison chart the old chimera has "narrow" volume and boostic family has "normal" volume
I loved the original version and have been climbing in the new ones recently. I cant say which one I like better. The heel is definitely deeper in the new one, so it feels maybe 1/4 size bigger, but at the same time the tension on the heel is tighter so not sure its a good idea to downsize. Front of the shoe fits the same. Overall it feels a bit stiffer than the original also.
Did you keep the same size from the previous Chimera, and any shenanigans needed to get the shoes on the foot prior to break in, and are those the same with current pair? For myself, I have to use plastic sheets, let my forefoot sit in the shoe for a couple minutes first without the heel, then stand and arc my foot and bear down on the tabs for a good thirty seconds to ever get them on, but with the hyperskin I am concerned that there just won’t be the kind of break in necessary to get them up to the standard of my current chimeras Thanks
@@zacharylaschober Same size as pervious version. I didnt need anything special to get them on my feet. I go from 43.5 Scarpa street shoes to 42 in their climbing shoes and that seems to work for me on most models.
The Chimera is now available at Backcountry ( bit.ly/3scZrrv ). See more retailers and current prices here: weighmyrack.com/shoe/scarpa-chimera
Dang, this guy is amazing. I know Drago doesn't fit my foot well, so not even going to try those, but I just loved listening to him geeking out on the shoe. So much information compacted in such a short film.
Same Problem. I have wide feet with high instep. Only the Instincts fits my feet... Still dreaming to get an Furia or Drago in extra wide :D
I have had a pair of these for about a month now and they are ridiculously sensitive. I love them so much. I definitely went aggressive on the sizing too and they are remarkably comfortable.
Coming from the Sportive Geniuses and I have to say I won't go back after these.
Sorry to revive this but what exactly is the upgrade from the genius? I'm currently rocking the genius and loving them but they need to be resoled soon so I need a new pair and wanted to try this new version? Do you have wide feet or high volume? I have a wide forefoot that is high volume and narrow heels and the geniuses fit me perfectly
Glad I went reviewing this video before getting a couple delivered because I am not sure without stretch I could fit into these at my current size, especially not since I started wearing a half size smaller in the Drago recently and was anticipating the same switch with new Chimeras. The hyperskin is concerning as I would always rather a shoe have a longer but significant break in period was the previous Chimera and current Mago have.
Comparison to Mago and Instinct Lace would also be nice, as they seem to have similar purpose - steep terrain sport climbing
There are perhaps two main reasons why these shoes differ.
1. The fit. The last’s are significantly different and by extension the way they fit and feel. The instinct is much more symmetrical than both the mago and chimera. The mago is very focused on bunching the toes and would have the highest toebox of any scarpa shoe.
2) the specificity. We are of course talking in increments here, you’re right, all three are geared towards similar terrain and holds. Saying that, the chimera is significantly softer than the other two, and also has more sensitivity and toe rubber. It is really designed for modern, indoor climbing as well as steep terrain where smearing, toe hooking and precision footwork is necessary. The mago is really all about precision, very small holds where you need to weight the foot maximally. Still steep terrain but toe hooks are sacrificed. If you’ve sized it properly it may even hurt to toe hook with a mago. Very specialised outdoor routes is where it shines. The instinct lace is much stiffer, will be more optimal where foot fatigue is an issue as it is also less symmetrical meaning less tiring in the foot. It combats sensitivity with stiffness so it edges well but the ability to feel is lessened. Again, I’d say it’s probably designed for outdoor climbing, specially sport or hard trad. It’s little brothers the VS and VSR are more suited to indoor or bouldering, the Velcro being the give away.
Obviously any of these shoes could be used for whatever, they’re all great and I think like Heinz says it’s mostly about what holds are on a climb rather than the discipline that matters. Saying that, Scarpa have been really specialising their designs and they have an intended purpose.
The Chimera is very specialised, that’s for sure. It’s the kind of shoe you’d want on a very particular climb. Laces give a more precise fit, it has a stiffer edging platform than it’s soft line cousins but it is absolutely a soft shoe that excels in the hooking and smearing game.
@@ThomasWinslove
This is an extremly informative and detailed comparison. All points made very clear and very relevant. Kudos.
Nice to see another Scarpa rep (besides Nathan) geek out about their shoes. Was wondering if there will also be a video on the new Instinct S? I saw a short video on it, but looking forward to a more in-depth lookvideo like this one.
Coming soon-ish! Sooooo many new products to showcase it's going to take a while to get through them all!!! But YES, the Instinct S video is in the que.
@@WeighMyRack Thanks! Anyway, glad to see that there are more videos on the channel again.
great to see you're back! i love those in depth videos. Also how you have the reps compare the shoes to the other models of the brand!
Aaand now i just wached 7 Minutes of a video for a shoe i won't wear (drago/instinct combo for me)
Glad you like them!
About the fit this new model is more like the boostic/booster/mago fit or it stays like the old one with drago and furia? In scarpas comparison chart the old chimera has "narrow" volume and boostic family has "normal" volume
I loved the original version and have been climbing in the new ones recently. I cant say which one I like better. The heel is definitely deeper in the new one, so it feels maybe 1/4 size bigger, but at the same time the tension on the heel is tighter so not sure its a good idea to downsize. Front of the shoe fits the same. Overall it feels a bit stiffer than the original also.
Thanks for sharing!
Did you keep the same size from the previous Chimera, and any shenanigans needed to get the shoes on the foot prior to break in, and are those the same with current pair?
For myself, I have to use plastic sheets, let my forefoot sit in the shoe for a couple minutes first without the heel, then stand and arc my foot and bear down on the tabs for a good thirty seconds to ever get them on, but with the hyperskin I am concerned that there just won’t be the kind of break in necessary to get them up to the standard of my current chimeras
Thanks
@@zacharylaschober Same size as pervious version. I didnt need anything special to get them on my feet. I go from 43.5 Scarpa street shoes to 42 in their climbing shoes and that seems to work for me on most models.
The sensitivity and comfort is great. Heel is trash and my toe was playing peekaboo through the rubber after 5 months :(
How does the toe and edging power on this shoe compare to the Instinct S?
Are these vegan? I mostly only noticed microsuede in the video :O
It's not marketed as vegan on their website like other shoes, so I don't think so.