The Top 3 Bouldering Shoes Of 2022 | Climbing Daily Ep.1996

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  • Опубліковано 17 лис 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 97

  • @marc080995
    @marc080995 2 роки тому +36

    La sportiva theory is the best shoe for 2022 for me. Best shoe i've ever had

    • @Nobodyeverybody24
      @Nobodyeverybody24 2 роки тому +3

      Totally agree

    • @MrSenize
      @MrSenize 2 роки тому +2

      By far!

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому +1

      Was unimpressed by the Theory. Definitely see the place for strictly indoor and especially competitive style bouldering, but I found them, alike the Scarpa Drago and Evolv Zenist, to have this incredibly narrow window of use as there is no midsole (on the Theory, the other two have a small and minimalist one) and thus once the rubber heats the shoe feels loose and floppy. Especially outdoors the things you simply cannot stand on in such a soft shoe is rather expansive.

    • @Nobodyeverybody24
      @Nobodyeverybody24 2 роки тому

      @@zacharylaschober I find it fine on small edges. Sure it’s not the best but it works perfectly fine for me.

    • @alexbarcovsky4319
      @alexbarcovsky4319 2 роки тому +3

      @@zacharylaschober It also depends on how strong your toes are and how tight you have fitted your pair.

  • @atherismagic4639
    @atherismagic4639 2 роки тому +21

    I have a pair of phantoms myself (in my street shoe size). A few months in, they have been awesome! Definitely a struggle to get them on especially on a cold day, but it is totally worth how well they perform on pretty much everything. Easy to recommend.

  • @DesmondRayBeltrop
    @DesmondRayBeltrop 2 роки тому +10

    Switched from gen 2 shamans to the phantoms, I prefer the phantoms in every way, but I size both up a full US size from my street shoe. I do have fairly flat feet, I've heard people sizing down, I cannot get my foot in street size at all, even at +1 my foot is a solid 3/4in longer than the entire shoe. The phantom also has probably the most brutal breakin I've ever had in a shoe as well, it is truly savage, the shaman is a cake walk comparably, because the phantoms are almost 100% rubber. I would conservatively estimate you'll need 12 hours in them to get anything that resembles a break-in, maybe more if you try to size them aggressively. Otherwise, for sport and bouldering, it's the best shoe I've ever used but it has the typical thick evolv sole, I do not consider it sensitive, but you can stand on anything with it.

  • @Alessandromarangoni123
    @Alessandromarangoni123 Рік тому +3

    The evolv phantom is phenomenal 😊

  • @zacharylaschober
    @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому +39

    Often enjoy Matt’s reviews, especially of climbing shoes, because he ditches much if the technical parlance for his feeling in the shoe. However, getting a rundown of flashy feature names and then broadly calling them bouldering shoes (even though the Sol Comp is used by many sport climbers and the Instinct S is mostly a training slipper) just seems strange. Missed the “dark spine” technology on the Phantom, but don’t care what Evolv tells me the shoe should do, I care about how well beat up Matt’s pair is and what he found they excelled on and feelings out the box versus down the road (like the mention about break in periods).

    • @TrackpadProductions
      @TrackpadProductions 2 роки тому +9

      Yeah, for some reason there's a big push from EpicTv to categorize shoes as "bouldering" or "sport climbing" shoes, when that's not really a thing. Shoes aren't designed for specific sports, they're designed for specific _terrain._

  • @longboardcamify
    @longboardcamify 2 роки тому +5

    Switched from la sportiva skwamas to the evolv phantom. I mostly boulder in the southeast USA on sandstone. I will not be buying a different shoe for a long time. The phantom exceeded my high expectations and is an easy recommendation from me!

  • @matenw.9530
    @matenw.9530 2 роки тому +3

    I bought the solution comps two years ago and didn't downsize enough. So for a more aggressive shoe I really wanted to get the phantom. But for my narrow and hollow foot and my narrow heel the fit wasn't perfect. I finally got the mad rock drones (LV, black) and I am in love. Best compromise if the phantoms don't fit 100%

  • @mohdsuhaimi3492
    @mohdsuhaimi3492 2 роки тому +1

    One shoe that i love using and i think is understated would be Per-Adra S-01. It’s a japanese brand. Very hard to get though. I’m treating mine like a treasure!!! I do have the la sportiva solution comp and it’s a great shoe. The only problem that i find is that the straps do not last long as it’s too thin.

  • @harryc8594
    @harryc8594 2 роки тому +16

    For me it’s the theories, fit me like a glove, but everyone’s feet are different

    • @robertwhite721
      @robertwhite721 2 роки тому +4

      The Theory honestly feels like cheating on some compy indoor climbing. Such a good shoe.

    • @theaveragecodpl4yer
      @theaveragecodpl4yer 2 роки тому +1

      I would love if the theory would fit me, but they just don't at all. I do have pretty weird shaped feet tho.

    • @TheIllusionCulpritMC
      @TheIllusionCulpritMC 2 роки тому

      @@robertwhite721 it's so soft

  • @justindoss3701
    @justindoss3701 Рік тому +2

    Anyone looking to buy the instinct s, they fit smaller than than the instinct vs/vsr. I would recommend getting the same size you get in the instinct vs/vsr or drago. They hurt in that size for a session or two but as soon as the m50 rubber on top softens/stretch’s, they fit perfect. I’ve worn almost all of the scarpa performance line and they are hands down my favorite, except on 5% of heel hooks(mostly ones found outdoors) for those very rare occasions I make sure to keep strap equipped shoe in my bag. I climb around v9/10 and wear them 99.5% of the time

    • @nps1024
      @nps1024 9 місяців тому

      Hi, I know I'm replying to your comment almost a year later but I'm on the fence with Instinct S - everyone seems to be praising them but as they're slippers I'm worried about those heel hooks. I'd get VS instead but I think I read they don't have all the latest features of S. I only climb indoor boulders and on amateur level but I'm thinking about upgrading my (old) shoes to also level up my climbing. I'm mostly interested in being able to stand on small foothold and edges which I can't do with my current shoes and Instinct S seem to be perfect for that but for bouldering I need versatility so like I said I'm worried about heel (and foot) hooks.
      Anything you could add to what you already said? Should I look for velcro shoes instead?

    • @tomhatcher1066
      @tomhatcher1066 8 місяців тому

      if youre just getting one shoe maybe just get the VSR. soft and sticky and amazing heel and decent enought toe hook. the vsr isnt as soft as the S and wont toe hook as well though but the VSR can do a wider range of things. I have both but love the S too@@nps1024

  • @speedoguns247
    @speedoguns247 2 роки тому +1

    Would love to see another one of these for lead climbing shoes

  • @beauelliott647
    @beauelliott647 2 роки тому +3

    wish scarpa would add that toehook rubber to the instinct vsr

  • @arimesser5822
    @arimesser5822 2 роки тому +3

    Which of these shoes would fit better for wider feet do you think? I’m inclined toward the instinct S because my previous instinct VS were the best shoes (for both fit and performance) that I’ve climbed in so far…

    • @i.gini7
      @i.gini7 2 роки тому +2

      If you still need an answer... I would suggest Instinct S. I own these as well as instinct vs and phantom. The two instinct are very similar but S version is noticeably sensitive and very sticky. The heel is firm and very good but if you try too many (many!) times a heelhook based move it can be painfull on achilleas. I don't like phantom heel. Not good on friction heelhook.

  • @MusicScala
    @MusicScala 2 роки тому +15

    How can you do such a list without the LaSportiva Theories? They are THE up and coming bouldering shoes and gain massive popularity

    • @theconnorhansen
      @theconnorhansen Рік тому

      And it’s hard to find many peoples experiences with them!
      I just got a pair and as someone who likes to have a firm understanding of things prior to buying, it was a bit of a gamble, particularly with the sizing.
      Ultimately I love them so far, but i think they are a touch in the narrow side, but they really do stretch a bit unlike what some people describe, particularly once all that rubber gets warmed up.

    • @Vertical690
      @Vertical690 Рік тому

      Theory's are way too soft for outdoors and is pretty much exclusively an indoors shoe. For outside you want at least some edging power. He did say this list is for shoes that can do both outdoors and indoors.

  • @setadoon
    @setadoon 2 роки тому +1

    i wish these companies would just give some shoes to the stores so we could buy them... literally nobody has shoes in my town. no sporting goods places, gyms, REI, etc. Scarpa boned more than a few places on the spring pre-orders. my work included. so we dropped them

  • @oooffa2697
    @oooffa2697 2 роки тому +2

    What about the la sportiva theory’s?

  • @CJ-nh5zi
    @CJ-nh5zi 2 роки тому +2

    Great video as usual! Can you do this for lead climbing shoes next? specific for higher grad climbing!

    • @SammyMakepeace
      @SammyMakepeace Рік тому +1

      I mean... the pros use their bouldering shoes. do you need another pair?

  • @felipe2fp
    @felipe2fp 2 роки тому

    Man I like so much my la sportiva genius that until today it was hard to try anything else different. Just the lace system in the gym is a little bit annoing to tie all the time, but, really, sooo good.

  • @maximus-oq6ph
    @maximus-oq6ph 4 дні тому

    do you think that scarpa instinct Vsr is equally good as the S???

  • @hyau23
    @hyau23 2 роки тому +1

    When. Are. You. Restocking. The. Scarpa. Instinct. Vsr's??????????

  • @driesvanoosten4417
    @driesvanoosten4417 2 роки тому +1

    I'm really curious about the instinct s, but not brick-and-mortar shop seems to have them and I find it a bit tricky to buy a new shoe without trying it in.

    • @Maw0822
      @Maw0822 2 роки тому

      I tried on the instinct vs in store to get sizing since they have a very similar shape then ordered online

  • @thesii213
    @thesii213 2 роки тому

    I want to love the Phantom's aesthetics, but that strap sticking to the inside just weirds me out every time. Shaman Lace though... gorgeous.

  • @bas5984
    @bas5984 2 роки тому

    LS toebox is very angular while scarpas is basically round. in theory that makes the LS superior for toehooking. whats your experiences on this?

  • @conserve_climber
    @conserve_climber 2 роки тому

    How did I miss this video!?! Yay

  • @KorepMater
    @KorepMater 2 роки тому

    Evolv Phantom looks pretty interesting. Gonna check them out in some shop. Wondering if they will be soft enough and work fine during smearing on volumes or slabs. Thanks for the video - I didn't know about the Evolv Phantom.

    • @thomasturner649
      @thomasturner649 2 роки тому +2

      I've got a pair, they are stiff as a rock and smearing on volumes is like ice skating uphill and they are unbelievably painful on slabs. Very good on extreme overhangs and roofs though, terrible everywhere else though, they are a real specialist shoe and unless you're climbing 7C and upwards they are pointless imo.

    • @KorepMater
      @KorepMater 2 роки тому

      @@thomasturner649 thanks for this respond. So it seems I got to check other shoes. Scarpa Furia Air was superb, but... not for my feet. Maybe Scarpa Drago LV or Tenaya Mastia will be fine for me. Heard also about the Unparallel, but there is no shop that sells them in my country yet.

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому +1

      @@KorepMater while I use the Furia Air in the gym frequently, the Booster has become my first shoe to work about anything. Strange the Furia Air does not fit your foot, though, as this is as rubberized sock as shoes get with a solid enough midsole. You do need to downsize them about a full size further than the majority of the Scarpa high performance line.
      Seriously, though, Boosters are just such a brilliant all around shoe with a phenomenal heel and good toe patch.

    • @KorepMater
      @KorepMater 2 роки тому

      @@zacharylaschober Furia Air was too loose in my heel, and I also have a low instep part of my foot. Like really low, I had to turn velcro around the buckle and even though half of it was almost on the ground 😅
      Thanks for the comment. I will check out the Booster.

  • @maximus-gg6wc
    @maximus-gg6wc 2 роки тому +1

    The solution comp sucks imo because the closure system always breaks after a few months. Everyone i know who has had the shoe had this problem

  • @Joulhayan
    @Joulhayan 2 роки тому

    I really want to try solution comps but they are sold out in my size

  • @felixneumann5106
    @felixneumann5106 2 роки тому

    How about the top 3 Climbing Gloves of 2022 in the next vid?

  • @ZacharieHall
    @ZacharieHall 2 роки тому

    What are those pants with the pattern when cuffed?

  • @javiercarvacho9133
    @javiercarvacho9133 2 роки тому

    How do I know if I have wide or narrow feet? is there like a chart for it?

  • @louisg8669
    @louisg8669 2 роки тому

    Asking for advice on a new shoe: what do people think of the scarpa instinct vsr blues?

    • @TheAlmquist
      @TheAlmquist 2 роки тому +1

      Fantastic! for me it's the perfect spot between boulder and sport climbing, pretty soft, and fit my feet snug and comfortable, but you're still able to stand on smaller edges.

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому +1

      Despite adoring the majority of the more high performance line from Scarpa, I have never found the Instinct to feel anything but clunky and have tried the VS and Lace in both mens and womens. However, a plethora of folks use them for a wide variety of terrain, but I would always rather the Booster or Boostic based on how most people use the Instinct just for the feedback and dexterity and fit. These feel like the bigger and badder version of the Instinct series.

  • @adithyashankar103
    @adithyashankar103 2 роки тому

    What are your thoughts on the new Oćun Ozone or the Nitro?

    • @Ro0p
      @Ro0p 2 роки тому +1

      Eyyy issa me lol

    • @adithyashankar103
      @adithyashankar103 2 роки тому +1

      @@Ro0p Eyyy wassup Man?! Looks like this is how we’ll meet until you come back next time..

    • @Ro0p
      @Ro0p 2 роки тому

      @@adithyashankar103 hahah yep, we'll be seeing each other in the comments XD

  • @philw299
    @philw299 2 роки тому

    What is the scarpa heel like? Is it the same as the instinct vs, or is it changed ? Thanks :)

    • @CK113th121
      @CK113th121 2 роки тому

      instict s’ heel is more ball-like. I prefer vs’ heel.
      The top back of the s heel puts quite a bit pressure on my Achilles’ tendon.
      It’s very secure though.

  • @alexduero9444
    @alexduero9444 Рік тому

    No mention of Dragos?

  • @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog
    @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 2 роки тому +4

    I’d throw in the flagship from Unparallel….

    • @adamtothefuture
      @adamtothefuture 2 роки тому +2

      I don’t get the hype

    • @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog
      @ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 2 роки тому

      @@adamtothefuture what hype? Have you owned the shoes? I’m not hyping them, I’m talking about my experience…they’re an incredible show

    • @jorgeclimber1821
      @jorgeclimber1821 2 роки тому

      Super good, but no the best ✌🏼

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому

      Flagships are great, alongside the Scarpa Booster due to the fit for me and the Evolv Phantom even though these do not fit me well. All three are this more ranging model of highly aggressive, structured toebox and heelcup, but a tremendous amount of sensitivity and flexibility. Folks who only climb in softer toebox shoes because of this slight amount of feedback are missing out.

    • @adamtothefuture
      @adamtothefuture 2 роки тому

      @@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog they were massively hyped last year so I got a pair. They’re alright but nothing to write home about.

  • @McEspada
    @McEspada 2 роки тому

    4 more episodes

  • @onsight2822
    @onsight2822 2 роки тому

    Climbing/ a sport for people with little feet .

  • @JakeYaks
    @JakeYaks 2 роки тому

    hello fellow humans, I'm interested in the scarpa instinct vsr shoe but no store anywhere near me has some for me to try on. I refuse to buy a 180-200$ climbing shoe that im not certain fits my foot. Anybody know certain stores/outfitters that carry them often? The instinct VS are wayyy easier to find compared to VSR. Do these shoes fit the same by chance so i can buy the same size or if anybody could share their experiences regarding anything ive mentioned that would be greatly appreciated

    • @pigozs
      @pigozs 2 роки тому +1

      IIRC they are built on the same last as the VS, with the only thing changing being the rubber. I wonder if the new slipper fits the same as well, no shop near me has it 😢

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому

      Yup, VS and VSR are the same last and identical construction apart from the pad of rubber (and I believe more microsuede in the VSR, the leather is only the bed of the upper but should break in more easily is all).

    • @jorgeclimber1821
      @jorgeclimber1821 2 роки тому

      Its same, enjoy!

    • @thesii213
      @thesii213 2 роки тому

      @@pigozs Supposedly the slipper has a slightly different last per Scarpa's own videos.

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому

      @@thesii213 yup, the S series in this video does have an updated last, but the VSR was discussed.

  • @Soullesss666
    @Soullesss666 2 роки тому

    I love my new Mantras)

    • @squonk5884
      @squonk5884 2 роки тому

      I am considering the La Sportiva Mantra.
      I would like to ask what size you chose compared to your usual street shoe size.

    • @Soullesss666
      @Soullesss666 2 роки тому

      @@squonk5884 two sizes down for a very snug fit.

    • @squonk5884
      @squonk5884 2 роки тому

      @@Soullesss666 Would that be two EU sizes that you dropped to obtain that fit ?

    • @Soullesss666
      @Soullesss666 2 роки тому

      @@squonk5884 Yes, from 41,5 to 39,5.

    • @squonk5884
      @squonk5884 2 роки тому

      @@Soullesss666 Thank you for your reply, that is very helpful.

  • @alexbarcovsky4319
    @alexbarcovsky4319 2 роки тому

    For me, the phantoms are very rigid to truly form to my foot, especially the toebox isnt agressive enough. I mean to each their own, but I feel like Phantoms compensate agressive tensioning with a stiffer midsole, resulting in less confidence on footholds, at least from me.
    Also how come theory didnt make the list? The thing feels like a condom, absolute superiority to phantoms. The only downside is you have to have strong toes, if all youve ever known are stiff shoes, you are in for a nasty surprise.

    • @HajimeChan
      @HajimeChan 2 роки тому

      the clip explained why theory is not in at the end, too soft for small footholds.

  • @drogerflav6350
    @drogerflav6350 2 роки тому +1

    The reason the la sportiva has such a pronounced downsize is mostly do to how they stretch so much and pretty much mold themselves to your foot. Braking them in tho is a hard process

    • @andrewscott5059
      @andrewscott5059 2 роки тому +5

      This is not true. La sportiva’s exaggerated downsize comes down to the fact that they use the actual length of the climbing shoe’s sole to determine the size instead of anything else. Many other companies have their sizes line up with the street shoe size of a person who fits the shoe, and others are pretty arbitrary. But no, laspo shoes don’t mold more or stretch more than any other shoe company’s shoes, all that matters for stretch is upper material (leather, lined leather, synthetic)

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 2 роки тому

      @@andrewscott5059 the downsizing on La Sportiva and Scarpa comes from them being steeped in the European tradition of downsizing, and the sizes shifting to match this, or rather never shifting away, while American and many modern companies do not measure along the asymmetrical arc, downcamber arc, or both because this often aligns better with actual foot size.
      But yes, the amount of stretch has to do entirely with the upper and to an extent the structure of the toebox. However, this is not as simple as whether materials are leather, lined leather, or synthetic as modern synthetic materials often mimic many of the qualities of leather but have consistent stretch for a length and faster periods to break in. Alcantara is one which is used a tremendous amount by Scarpa for the big toe pocket which is akin to unlined leather but molds better, faster, and retains the shape longer.

  • @fernandojimenez7859
    @fernandojimenez7859 2 роки тому

    Dff

  • @howler6490
    @howler6490 2 роки тому

    All these shoes!
    I wore the same shoes as almost everybody else...ellis brighams or EB's.
    Some posh folk had PA's.
    That was it.
    I wore them until my toes had a view and fresh air then went to a shop and got shoe size, (some big guys wore them bare-footed )...easy.
    None of this bare feet on a belay, we wore them all day, smiling.Wandering about the crag base, with them on.
    Ah,I hear you scream,you weren't doing the routes that get done today.
    True but give todays top boys and girls a pair and a month to get into them...lets see what happens.
    To show how reactionary I am, I loved climbing in my RD's, my snow and ice and alpine boots. Thats a different ball game...try it...trying to step delicate with a filing cabinet on each foot!

    • @finnplanb3
      @finnplanb3 2 роки тому

      so we can thank the good old boys for all the polish then! never understood people buying a £100 plus pair of shoes to get on a route with dirty feet and no help from the rubber they bought..

  • @user-il9qo4qc4n
    @user-il9qo4qc4n Рік тому

    Adidas Crawe are the best looking shoe.