Hobby Cheating 226 - How to Paint Textured Cloth
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- Опубліковано 31 січ 2020
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through my method of textured cloth. This method helps to give you a satin feel to your cloth because of the hashing technique, but you could just as easily replace it with stippling for a nice silky effect. Hope you enjoy!
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I've just watched 10 videos on texturing fabric. Officialy have gone insane again but this has been the bees knees.
Hope it was helpful, even in your insane state. ;)
Painting textured cloth is a very zen-like experience. The main core trick is just getting in the zone and working it with simple strokes until it has enough fidelity.
This is in my opinion one of the best vids you've ever put out on Hobby Cheating and not just for the technique itself but for how we were able to go on the journey with you from beginning to end and see every little brush stroke while also giving us the rationale of each step. Well done.
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
My biggest painting hurdle is patience. I want instant results and have it look perfect after 1 coat. This technique has really helped me take my time, and try to appreciate the process more, and relax in a chaotic life. Thanks Vince, you are mine and my wife's painting guru!
Fantastic to hear! Happy to help.
“Just push those happy little hashes” 👌 - Vinncey V 🥰🙏
Great stuff. I love videos on different textures, they're always so widely applicable to different models.
Yep, there is so much you can do with this technique. :)
Back in 07' I had a Tyranid army I was working on and did something similar like this to the carapace. The ending result looks fantastic and the color scheme was purple and light blue to make them look icy. It took forever to get a box of Hormagaunts and one Carnifex done but man did they look great
Yep, I have a tyranid video planned for the future and you are going to see some very similar things in that video. ;)
This is awesome Vince! I love the videos and I have begun my journey on converting my chaos lord and going to try my best at display quality just for my own personal hobby journey. You and a lot of other talented you tubers have inspired me to pick this hobby back up!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Isn't it cool, when you can remind yourself, that it's an exercise in patience. Like most art, the good stuff always takes a little time.
Absolutely. :)
Yeah of course! Thanks. I’ll be using technique. It really helped to visually see this. One can manipulate this to get a subtle effect to whatever degree you want.
Having watched my 50th Vince video in a row, I have finally grasped what reality is!
Thanks Vince. Very helpful. I can see me using this technique on my military bust and figures. This will help make their uniforms more interesting.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Very much a beginner painter but love your videos, always learn something I can actually use. Thx mate.
Glad to help. :)
Fantastic technique! I had some serious issues with cloak painting and now I see a great oppotunity to make it look just fine :) .
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Great advice and inspiration for those of us still learning to blend. Kujo uses the same technique for shiny blue armour - worth a look for those interested
Yep, you can do a similar technique for brushed steel (like what Kujo is doing). this kind of texturing is very versatile.
Kujo's Night Lords videos are what inspired me to do a NL army. OH. MY. WORD. What he does in those is almost mind-blowing! Mezgike's another great one to check out, for stuff like that. Those 2 and Vince are 3 of the top 5 in my top 10 must-watch hobby channels on YT.
Looking epic my friend as always
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
I copied this technique from a photo in FB and love it. Meanwhile capes are the most appealing thing about my minis and I can only recommend it to everyone. Thanks for the video.
Happy to help as always. :)
Great tutorial! Funnily enough, I was painting standard bearer for my Ironjawz and regular line on the raised details seemed bland, so thinking about what you and Darren Latham say about textures, I added some lines to simulate texture. It didn't come out the best, but it's great to do it for the 1st time! Next time I'll use brush with better tip and thinner paint, also replicating steps you showed. Keep up the good work!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Wow so easy to learn, thanks for it. Going to try it out .
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Great video. I’m trying this next time I do cloth. Keep them coming 😀
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
@@VinceVenturella Really what you do is super amazing! and has helped to improve my painting no end :)
This is probably one of my favourite videos so far. Looks really simple to achieve too, so I'll give this a shot - I'm thinking it could still give a similar effect if used on hard edges too, to look like weathering of sorts .. :D - Thanks!
Yep, this sort of thing can also be like chitinous markings on Tyranids and similar.
Coming from the photography world, a "shadow" may also be a reflection of a dark object into the subject not just a area that is less lit. Also reflections from other nearby objects can show up as unexpected areas of other colors mostly in glossy or metallic subjects.
Very cool video , going to try this on my arhiman soon !
Awesome happy to help as always. :)
super thanks on suggesting this as an alternative to blending.
I have some pretty nasty hand tremors, (despite still doing this as a for-fun hobby). So seeing this alternative is something I can actually leverage. =)
That's wonderful to hear, keep in mind, you can also do this through something like good old fashioned stippling (look at Bohun if you want to see some more on that), there are plenty of options out there integrating textures to not only still get good blends but achieve some good effects as well.
Useful as always!
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
As someone with more time than talent I approve this technique.
It's a great technique and so easy. :)
i know it is kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good site to stream new movies online?
@Chase Ricardo i would suggest flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
@Jagger Owen Yup, have been using Flixzone for years myself =)
@Jagger Owen Thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :) Appreciate it!!
Another awesome video. Thank you for doing these. If I were to use the stippling method instead of lines, would I be stippling with the goal of making lines of dots with the lines being about the same width as the hashes you were making?
So if you go to stippling, then you aren't really trying to make the hashes, you are simply trying to make an area of dense dots. but the vertical width of that color is about the same of what I am doing here, you also overlap the dots in the same way. Hope that helps. If you are looking for some good examples of the dots in practice, check out Gareth Nichols work.
Just when i bought the Slaves of Darkness Start Collecting Box with lots of capes 'n cloak to paint ... Thank you very much.
Thats a cool set 👍
Yep, that was much the same reason for this exercise. ;)
Excellent video
Thank you, very much appreciated. :)
This is great thanks for the vid. Would love to see you do the stiple effect on the other shoulder cloth
So you can watch that technique here - ua-cam.com/video/S6VjvBzsIog/v-deo.html
Hope that helps.
Great tutorial, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
O waw lovely technique.
Nice. Was thinking of doing Batman in this style so this helps. 🤘🏻
Yeah, his cloak would be awesome in a style like this.
Oh wow, I didn't realise how easy this was until I tried it
Yep, once you have the dilution right, it's great and easy (though it can take a while). :)
Great video. Can you do it for yellow capes? What would you use for the dark shade?
A rust color or deep desaturated orange generally.
When you do the darker lines, do you from start 20% into the lighter line and go out or do you draw from the unpainted portion to 20% into the lighter line?
20% into the lighter line and move outward.
looks awesome, can you give me an advice on how much the wet palette should be filled and if the parchment must be covered with it or just underneath it
So in general, with your wet palette, you want it wet and you want a little standing water in the bottom, you don't want it coming up over the paper at all.
Great video, I'll definitely be putting this technique to use in the future. Two questions, if I may:
Firstly, why do you work light to dark when doing this? In my mind it would make more sense to do it the other way around, slowly building up the highlights on the brightest parts, but there's probably a reason here that I'm missing.
Secondly, how would you do this for clean white? I'll be doing a Slaanesh Slaves to Darkness army as well, but the colour scheme I have in mind has pure white cloth, probably going towards blue-greyish for the shadows. The final glazing step is what I worry most about, glazing white or near white is always so tricky.
1) Because I want to hide the edges, it needs to feel like one continuous line, when you work dark to light, you will always have the edges and that can break the illusion.
2) I wouldn't glaze basically, I would just make more and more lines. If you watch my how to paint white hair video, it's a similar tactic, but that will show you how I would do it.
sorry, second question: for a red cloak, would you start with a black base as well? thanks again for all these excellent videos!
For a red cloak, I would start with a deep red/red brown or something similar.
thanks!
@@VinceVenturella I’m also looking at using this technique for a red cloak. Would you be highlighting with sunny Skintone to get the faded effect or something else?
@@griffglowen5555 It could certainly work for that, that will give you a warm final effect.
@@VinceVenturella would you recommend a red contrast or red ink to glaze over top?
This one is going in my back pocket.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
I've just zenithal highlighted the outer robes of my farseer ivory with brown in the shadows. Should I paint 2 thin coats of orange and then go into making texture or should I just do the techniques shown here and start making texture? Edit also can this be done without flow improver?
Yep, lay down your mid-tone and then build the texture from there. You can certainly do it without the flow improver, but you'll want a sharp brush and a good flowing paint that has been thinned.
wow. Great video, thank you so much, I´m going to practice it. But I just got a question. Why you use flow improver with paint? To achieve what? Thank you again. Kind regards.
It lowers the surface tension and allows the paint to flow more easily from the tip.
@@VinceVenturellathank you so much. So thinner and flow improver make different effect in paints I guess. If flow improver reduces the surface tension...it's better to use it with thicker paints and thinner with not too thin paints? Thank you.
I too have a question on how to do this on white/cream cloaks and robes. I have a Dark Angels Sgt. (One of the old metal ones in a robe) I tried the painting brown, working up with off-whites. Dislike it. I could repaint/tint it with ink and try a different method. Could you do this if you won't have especially dark folds?
So when you are working white/cream cloaks, the answer is you want to have the deeper colors be slightly grey (cold shadows) transitioning into warm highlights (so the mid to high are warm whites).
Then you can just transition from something like a bone color in the midtone up to white or near white at the very tippy, thinnest top of highlights. Any kind of Bone-Ivory-White transition should be the right area.
Great, thank you. Question - why wouldn't you glaze up to the same color effect?
You certainly could, this is an alternative that will create texture, it creates more visual confusion that flat plains of color and generally makes the subject of the piece more visually compelling.
Great vidéo as usual. Could you use the same technique on big flat muscles, like ogors or helbrute ? What colour would you recommend ?
Sure, it can work well on muscles as well but you want to make sure you do the glazing all the way over top so it looks like the texture is just barely there.
If the wrinkle/fold is horizontal would you make your little slash marks vertical then or keep them horizontal? The piece I want to try this on has normal vertical folds but also has a a spot where two vertical folds make a upside down "U" like shape at the waist (like the jacket is is fluttering up) and also as some small horizontal folds farther up on the back of the jacket
In that case I would make them vertical, they need to run opposed to the angle of the cloth.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince!
Fantastic video : D do you have a video on stippling, like the ragged cloth. I want to use this method to blend colours as I love the way it looks : ]
Yep - ua-cam.com/video/S6VjvBzsIog/v-deo.html
Great vid as always Vince. Do you have a video on that armor?
I don't have a video on that armor yet, but I am going to record one in the future.
Can’t wait for this one loving that purple!
Love this please show how to do the dot method as well
I've done a video on the stippling method before (ua-cam.com/video/S6VjvBzsIog/v-deo.html) that should show you what you are looking for until I do another video in the future. :)
Really niche question:
How would you go about texturing a piece of cloth that's pointing directly upwards and doesn't have any creases in it.
I ask cause i tried using this technique to paint the cape of the Space Marine Captain in the dark vengeance box, and while most of it was pretty straight foward, the top of his cape drapes over the dude's shoulder pad, but not in a way that shapes it. It's more like it's just a featureless curved piece of cloth, a bit larger than a shoulder pad, that's pointed directly at the sky.
I ended up cross hatching with the two lightest colours but i don't think it turned out well so i was wondering what you would do it that scenario.
Also, more general question, if you have a colour that you know you want to be the main colour of the cloak, do you use it as like, the middle point of the layers of highlights or should you paint it in black and white and grey and just gaze the desired colour over top to tint the whole thing? (I may have combined both approaches)
Anyway, great video, this technique is def going in my "Only for characters" painting toolbox
You want to create slight variance of the light and texture as it curves around the surface, so you have some part, that is very much up that might even not show texture anymore, but just be your pure highlight (it's the bright light reflection) then you come down into the texture from there.
Thinking about the overlay version you mentioned on competition pieces and the added visual confusion that introduces; is there a reason (other than ease of mixing and the increased difficulty of thin lines the longer they are) you're not starting with a mid-tone and running, say 50-60% of the area, and then climbing the highlight ladder, reducing the area as you go?
It seems like that would both add to the effect (as there would be more lines under other lines), and boost the value of the highlights (because rather than being entirely desaturated by the black base coat they would be laying over existing purples (in this case). If your highlight ladder is already plotted for you (e.g.: a sequence of Warcolours reds, where rather than mixing Orange 5 and Red 3, you could just take Red 3, then Red 2, Red 1 and so on) is that perhaps a more valuable route to take?
Great question, a few people asked the same question. The real answer is the ability to fuzz all the edges. I have a little more control in this way and can operate in a way where I am blending the edges more subtly into the shadows. That being said, I end up usually going back and forth and I am sure both methods would honestly work.
Awesome tech! I'm going to try this when I get home. I agree that most of my cloaks are looking pretty boring, and this might be just what the doctor ordered.
One quick question: if you wanted to knock this out on an army or just had less time... instead of using a super sharp tiny brush, have you ever experimented with a bigger, stiff-bristled brush? It seems like you could make a ton of tiny hashes over the raised areas really quick, though obviously not look as organic... thoughts?
It's the kind of thing were I think if you're going to do it, this is basically the way. It's a long process, but once you get into the rhythm it'a actually quite relaxing. That being said, you can cover less space or make it less extreme and still get some good effects and that speeds it up.
Love this - this is a skill I’ve been trying out lately and failing upward haha:) A couple of question: is there a reason you don’t start with the lowest color and work up to the nightlight (versus starting with the highest and working outward to the lowest highlight)? Also, how do you keep this from looking more like brushed metal (I guess more what is the difference between the techniques?
Thanks again for all the awesome content dude:)
Honestly, you could do it either way. You could start low and work high, but you'll always need to glaze back down. In this case, I am starting high because then I can smooth the edges with the transparent later colors of paint.
Vince Venturella thank you so much!
Would you start from black basecoat for the alternative colours as well? You talked about highlighting red, green and blue cloth, but they would all start from black?
I'm not Vince, obviously, but I do have a fair bit of painting under my belt. For a more muted red, black should be fine. If you're wanting something more vibrant, though, you're probably going to want to start from a more brown base, even if it's just cutting it in at a 50/50 mix with your black base, to warm it up a bit.
So in general, I would start from a deep version of that color. In this case, I wanted a black cloak, or something black/purple, so that is where I was starting. If I was doing Red, I would start Deep red and go up, etc. Hope that helps. You can always add in more versatile colors (your deep blue/cold shadows for a warm highlight etc) through your later glazes.
What if I were to be doing a black colour? Would I start with a dark grey and use black or...?
Yep, exactly.
I have a question, why would you start with the brightest highlight then work towards the darker tones? Wouldn't it be easier to go from the darkest to lightest colors / deepest to highest areas?
So you could do it either way, but honestly, I like this way better, because then I can cover the edges of the bright lines with the darker transparent lines of paint. I have just found it easier to make it appear as one smooth thread by fuzzing the edge of the layers.
@@VinceVenturella ohh i see :D i'll definitely try this out. Thanks, man :D
Hi Vince, is the Liquitex Flow Improver used straight from the bottle or has it been pre-diluted with water?
Diluted.
@@VinceVenturella any specific dilution ratio with water?
Could you, easily do some free hand over this texture afterwards? I want to go for a worn cloak using this method and then have some Chaos embroidery to it as well.
You certainly can, one of the keys is to then use the same hashing style in the finishing of the freehand.
Any special highlight tips for say hull red or beige Ogor pants? Or would you still go all the way down to black, using incrementally lighter browns on the way up?
So with Hull Red, you want to move up to basically red as your highlight, One trick I like to use is doing it in bone color, and then I glaze the normal red overtop. Then you get the good lines and the bright red color. With the beige, it's just moving around through all the browns from dim black/brown to white brown.
Awesome. Thank you so much! You rock!
Hi Vince!
I read below that you might cover it in a separate video but what is the color on their armor?
Love your vids btw :)
There are many colors in their armor. :) - Glacier Blue from Vallejo, Hastur Purple and Bloodfest Crimson from Scale 75, Payne's Grey from Daler Rowney ink and HBA Alezarin crimson from Golden.
Great video and perfect timing. I've been pondering on how I was going to paint the cape on my Death Knight Avenger (Black Sun miniatures). I want to do this in a deep blood red, what color should I use for priming? I'm figuring black? Again, thanks for the video this method will be very useful.
So in general, I always do some kind of zenithal highlighting which is what I would recommend here. That being said, I would stick to deep colors of red and make the highlights pure red.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you. I greatly appreciate the advice and look forward to more Hobby Cheating videos!
NICE!! question: when you show the flow improver on the palette, is that PURE flow-improver, or water mixed with the label-instructed percentage of flow improver in it? for example, I have Liquitex Flow Aid, and the instructions say to mix it 1:20 with water. thanks and excellent work as always! :-)
It is diluted. In general, I have found a dilution of 1:10 to 1:20 is good for my purposes.
thanks!
Wasn't happy eith how I painted my chaos warriors cloack and was gonna redo it, so this Video is godsend. I use a bit of streaking grime on my warrior to make him look a bit more "grimdark", does anyone know if going over the cloack with streaking grime will ruin the texture?
It will tint it, but as long as you clean it up, depending on the color, it will at worst make it look dirty.
@@VinceVenturella okay guess I'll try then. Thanks a lot for the answer! Don't know any other youtuber that responds to year old videos so huge props for that
Coming from a illustration background I enjoy knowing some techniques are universal. Despite being potentially tedious at times it yield greats results and the main point for me is enjoyment of my craft. Any other techniques you know of, besides freehand, that cross over from other art forms?
Honestly, most everything, composition, colour, light theory and techniques like stippling, feathering, blending, it's actually quite amazing the cross over between traditional art mediums and mini-painting.
I'm wondering how you'd go about doing a white cloak? I was planning on doing a very pale green silk for my Sisters of Battle army and this technique I think would work, either the line version or the stippling. Should I start with a grey for the cloak or go with a darker green?
So when you are working white/cream cloaks, the answer is you want to have the deeper colors be slightly grey (cold shadows) transitioning into warm highlights (so the mid to high are warm whites).
Then you can just transition from something like a bone color in the midtone up to white or near white at the very tippy, thinnest top of highlights. Any kind of Bone-Ivory-White transition should be the right area.
If you want a green tinge, you can either add it through the glaze you saw me do here, or add a slight touch of green to your deep shadows and mid-tones.
@@VinceVenturella Man, thank you so much. Your videos have done a lot to teach me some surprisingly advanced techniques, and in an interesting, entertaining format. Cannot stress enough how much I, and the community, appreciate it.
i am working on a figure who has old clothing with stitching holding pieces of either cloth or leather together is there a way to it without going crazy doing?
We’re all mad here. 🤓
It always requires a little craziness to add texture. But the answer is you don't need to add the texture to everything. You can pick a few items and make those textured, it will help them stand apart.
Probably won't see this but I wonder how it would look if I tried doing this on a rounded service like the back of a carin wraith with a black cloak
I see all comments my friend. It would work just fine, but you'll need to "create" some of the folds rather than do the whole back.
@@VinceVenturella man Thank you for replying and so quick no less. You and Uncle Atom are amazing about replying to old content!
Love your Hobby Cheating videos they are amazing for pushing myself.
Thanks for the tip this sounds like it'll be an interesting exercise in cloth texture.
What flow improver is used?
I generally use Warcolours, but if you can't find that, liquitex from your local art store is fine.
Really like this might do this to my night goblins
Vince how would you do this with black? Trying to do a night goblin army in original black and yellow color
So start with the true black in the shadow and make the highest highlights a soft mid-grey. I would still work a color in, like a purple or a dark blue in the mid-tones.
Vince Venturella maybe aiming at using fenris grey or reaper blue color from gw to get a grey blue colors and a cool tone to contrast the red and yellow in the mini?
@@lordofthebitzbox2370 makes sense to me
Can you provide pictures of the minis after the painting? So we can see what the results are ?
Yep, they are at the end of the video - ua-cam.com/video/_fScMZ1ZkOU/v-deo.html
Is there a video of you painting that shield?
Sadly there is not, I will certainly record a video doing the armor on one of the figures in the future.
@@VinceVenturella thanks
Uh, yeah I'm gonna have to do this for 6 warlocks oh no what have I done!
The Nocturna purple set is great because most paint ranges only have one or two purple colour pots in their entirety.
This is also a great technique for doing chitinous plates. But keep in mind that this method will wear on your brush, particularly the dabbing method mentioned will really wear on a brush, you may also find some tougher synthetic brushes are a bit too coarse for this method and can damage layers of paint your already put down with the dabbing method.
Totally agree on the nocturna set, it's just amazing. And yes, the more you are "banging" on the tip the more you will damage the brush, that is certainly true.
@@VinceVenturella Really hoping for a Nocturna yellow set personally. Although Scale 75 does have a lot in its range.
White as opposed to Ice Yellow for highlighting cloaks? Who are you, and what have you done w/ Vince!
Just a touch, it was mostly Glacier blue to be fair. ;)
Vince, thank you as always for the great content!
Would you consider putting together a Patreon page where we can support you for making these videos?
I don't need more content or any exclusive offerings, simply a place were those of us who have learned so much over the years and appreciate the content you provide can give back to you for what you give us. I'm sure myself and a few hundred other people would gladly send $5-$10 your way a month for providing us with so much outstanding art instruction.
Many of us support other youtubers this way and I would really like to support someone who I consistently learn from.
I very much appreciate it, for now, I am staying Patreon free. I can't explain how much it means to me to make the offer and request. FOr now this is just my hobby, but we'll see if it changes over time. :)
@@VinceVenturella understood, I'll continue to recommend and share your content with others when I can to support your efforts.
"they're shadows because they're shadows"
:D
Sometimes, it's the simple answers.
The technique is awesome but I'm not a fan of the result. It may work when you're entirely zoomed in but at arm's length it looks similar to coarse paint.
Fair enough, to each his own. :)
Pls do it it looks AWESOME!
If Zordon painted a cloak, this how he would paint it.
Bruh...Zordon? That's a bit random. You know Zordon only paints in "metalic spandex"
I will take that as a compliment. :)
Awesome video, really starts to make you think a lot more about the material you're painting.
Request for an extension of this Video:
Comparison of Materials and how to paint each (Summary)
From videos like this and listening to your interviews with artists, I'm learning a lot about the importance of textures and understanding them. Kirill has a video posted where he goes into detail on how he paints different patterns, textures etc... ( ua-cam.com/video/z25_ekg90wQ/v-deo.html ).
I'd love it if you could go through a summary of each material and the effect to use, stipple vs. hashing, the reflective nature of each etc. You could just link to videos like this that show the specific techniques in more detail.
It's tough, I am not sure I could do one video on that and cover everything, there are so many different textures, variations and techniques, it's something that I will do more of, but it will have to be broken up.
Man this is a lot harder than it looks
It does take some practice and time for sure. :)
666 likes)))
Perfect for the Chaos minis.
love your videos but every time music starts playing my cat screams at night. your voice is almost always is quiter even though it became better as videos go; but if only you could still take that music down a notch.
Strange, it's set at 2%, so I've muted it down as much as possible, I can barely hear it on the playback, not sure what's going on there.
@@VinceVenturella The music is fine. Your voice is definitely louder and clearly understandable. Might be a problem with his sound settings or audio device.
lol gosh darnit! language!
You got me. :)