Record Power Sabre 350 bandsaw setup and first cuts
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 лис 2018
- This is the second video of my new Record Power Sabre 350 14" bandsaw. In this episode I do the final setup and take my first cuts into a log of beech. I'd wondered what was inside that log for over a year.
The first episode can be found here:
• Record Power Sabre 350...
The Record Power Bandsaw Masterclass DVD/video is here:
• Record Power's Bandsaw...
/ susangardener - Навчання та стиль
My method Measure adjust, Measure adjust, Measure adjust.
Hit it with a hammer
I know this is an old upload, but in the market for one of these and this is a great insight to the set up process. Thanks
Susan, thank you for your video's on UA-cam. And I thing RP should thank you too because yesterday I cut my first lump of wood with a brandnew Sabre 350! What a nice peace of machinery!
Greetings from the Netherlands,
Peter
What a sweet machine. I have an old Craftsman tilt head bandsaw that takes a 80.5" blade. The head tilts, but is a real pain to return to 90 with the table. I had to build a floor stand so I don't wreak my back bending over the damn thing. The drive pulley system was always coming loose so I put some red lock-tight on the set screw. It is an adequate saw for my shop needs and can resaw 5.75 boards all day with a new sharp blade. This Susie is one proper lady luthier.
Your video was SO helpful. I’m looking to buy a good bandsaw and your reviews etc., really informed that decision.
I am in love with that bandsaw, great video!
Thanks, Susan. Nice saw, and good demonstration of the setup.
InstaBlaster.
cant believe i have only just found your channel, what a great channel you have a new fan. i am now looking at getting the sabre 350 and your video is a great insight into what a great machine it is.
Awesome video, that's one mighty fine band saw you have there.
Nice video, thanks. That model was on my list for my first band saw, but eventually got another smaller one.
Congratulations, that saw looks great!
Nice one Susie that’s a great bit of kit as you know ..can’t wait to get mine soon 👌
Thanks for your film Susan, regards Carl.
GREAT saw!!! I used to own a Rikon that was almost identical to yours. Congrats on your smart choice!
thank you Susan how nice for you
You have mastered that tool very nicely, congratulations. Cutting thin veneer like you did is not easy.
A very awesome piece of kit my dear. Have a great day.
Thats a sharp looking bandsaw! Ill be upgrading mine this year as well. A good bandsaw makes a huge difference in luthiere. Great vid keep up the great work, greetings from Dallas, Texas.
Lovely review, thanks.
Such great timing you doing this setup. I have one of these on its way to me as I type. Your video will be really handy for setting it up
Glad to be of service :-)
Really informative video - thank you!
Lovely!!!!
It is on my wish lis for sure!!!
Nice. A new bandsaw. I just got me one myself. Made by Laguna.Love it.
@ 3:30 it is not just about twisting, which can happen under heavy unbalanced load.
Lamellar cast iron tends to slightly warp with ageing. This could put the two edges out of plane. With the pin always in place the edges will share the strain, and warp toghether if any deformation occurs, keeping everything relatively flat.
Impressive! It just confirm me my bandsaw is totally crap... (Even well adjusted)! Thanks for sharing! Glad to see you recycle even the piece of wood that should end in the stove. :)
Mine, too!
Verry nice indeed
I want to cut such nice Veneers too, but with Maple, Ebony and Palosantos. Thank you very much for the Video 😘
Hey Susie,
The band saw is really good but not cheap for it with the right band saw an excellent cutting result thin sawing veneer is no problem just as big pieces for this saw.
The setting is a lot of work but it's worth it.
Have fun with it and take care of the little fingers :))).
Greetings from Vienna, Austria
Chris
Finally You have real bandsaw. :)
Mhhh... it seems that book matching is gonna be a piece of cake ;o)
Thanks, a good intro to a 'big' saw! Lots of refinements compared to my older RP saw.
Bet I'm not the only one backing off RP blades - try Tuff Saw for bandsaw blades, no 'tick tick tick'.
You really hit the weak point - setting up the fence bar - should have been addressed by now.
nice video, by the way the fact of them putting the 2nd grade of blade on the saw first is a good idea; because it allows mistakes to occur if you are a first user, or are trying the capacity of the saw, so you are not worried about breaking an expensive blade, esp. if you haven't adjusted a blade before.
Alan Holtham also does a video (made by/for Record Power) about setting up the saw, VERY GOOD, go to the record Power website, there are lots of other tutorial / product videos of their equipment, wood turning as well as other project videos.
Hi Susan.
I'm just about to buy one of these and it was great to watch you complete this; especially on your own, as I would be.
Thanks so much.
P.S. Where did you buy yours from? would be great to compare prices.
Hi Susan, I have just discovered your page and I have been binge watching to guitar build. I am interested in both the Record bandsaw and the Triton spindle dander. Now you have had these tools a while, would you still recommend them.
I was also looking at the record’s bigger brother the 450.
Great videos 👍🏻
Susan, I started watching you awhile ago. I watch many of the guitar channels, Crimson, Dave's World, Rosa String Works, etc. and I find your vids equally informative and entertaining. BTW, I have a small band saw that looks like a toy compared to the Record! KUTGW, and I'll keep watching.
Even a cheap bandsaw can work well with a good blade and setup
It actually does work pretty well, but, even with a good setup, you also have to be very conscious of not overtaxing it's capabilities. Anyway, I enjoy your presentations. Thanks!
i think the factory blades are generally of lower quality which can cause great disappointment and then when a quality blade is fitted great elation....i've found the "axcaliber" blades from axminster tools to be very good.
Tuff Saw blades - best out there
Hi Susie fellow learner guitar builder I want a bandsaw for cutting bodies and necks. I was thinking of getting one similar to your first one can I ask what made you upgrade so quickly and is £100 bandsaw suitable for working on guitars and the right hardwoods?
Hi Susan, I am planing to buy a Sabre 350, how you like this tool, are you happy or very happy with it? It’s worth the money?
Why not run the 4 x2 against the fence? Wouldnt that give a perfect cut?
Super 👍 Vorstellung da ich mir die Säge auch kaufen möchte 👍👍👍hat mir dein Video sehr gefallen 👋👋👋Abo von mir hast du 👋 mit den besten Grüße aus Braunis Bastelhütte
hi Susan,
a quick and easy way to set the distance on the guides is take a piece of paper, fold it in half and then place it over the saw blade like a "tent" and allow the paper to go down into the guides. pinch the loosened guides in and allow them to clamp the paper to the saw blade and then tighten them up. bingo! guide spacing is set...
since you are pretty good at making jigs, you should make a jig that goes into both of the slots in the table that sets the parallel and perpendicular for the fence guide rail. all that dinkin around gets to be tedious and there will be plenty of times it gets bumped out of alignment or have to be taken off the machine and then re-aligned.
it would essentially look like a square bottomed "U"
one critique that i would offer up here is not of you but rather over the machine itself in particular the manufacturer. the base the thing sits on is far from adequate. i've made mention of this in several of my videos that the base of a machine should be about 1.5 times the mass of the machine itself. this is to quiet the thing down and make it run smoother. while it may seem the saw runs smooth now once you get the thing weighted down and bolted to the floor it will perform like a dream. bandsaws on castors are a disaster looking for a time to happen as they are extremely top heavy and can tip easily.
the walls of the base should be out of at least 1/4" steel plate. 1/2" would be better. while this sounds like overkill, i assure you it's not. that added weight will make a huge difference...
i'm helping my brother with a machine he recently picked up and we're going to get the thing off its mobile base and build a solid steel base for it... check out the bro-shop vids in my channel for the progress
cheers
mike
Thanks for the tips!
I should perhaps add that it is very top heavy and feels precarious when being wheeled, but once sitting on the metal legs without the jockey wheel it feels quite solid. Maybe I should get a bag of sand to put in the base
@@SusanGardener , yes the bag of sand is a very good idea. anything to add weight
Susan was that a 16A industrial socket you plugged into? What Kw motor does it have.? Very nice piece of kit!... cheers Rob.
It’s a 1.5kW motor. 6A at 240v
I have a BS350S, which is the cheaper Record Power band saw of the same size. Your one has a number of additional features that look rather useful. I've ended up removing the fence and I just draw a line on the piece I'm cutting and follow that by eye, which with a decent blade seems accurate enough. I was having lots of problems using a fence, and I saw a video on UA-cam that coincided with my experiences and convinced me to lose the fence. I'll be interested to see how you get on with that. Regarding blades, I bought a couple of different blades from Axminster - a wide one for ripping and a special one with teeth on the back of the blade for tighter curves - and they are significantly better than the stock blade.
Some bandsaw/blades have ‘drift’ - eg to cut a straight line the work has to be offset by a few degrees. The fence would have to be offset by the same amount. Draw a straight line down the middle of a straight piece of wood and hand feed it to see if you need to skew it to cut straight - you can then set the fence at the same angle. Trouble is you have to redo this every time you change the blade tension or guides
@@SusanGardener True - I've also found that the grain can throw the blade off line if it isn't straight. I probably will experiment with my fence again in the future, but for the time being it's staying off. I'm not telling anybody else what to do, though - I think each person has to find the tools and methods that they are comfortable with, since there are often many ways to achieve the end result.
It’s funny how we get used to things so that they work fine for us but not others. Front door locks, toilet flushes, cat medicine. Yeah, don’t ask...
Susan looking at bandsaw for cabinetry - considering the sabre 350 but wondering if it is much better than the cheaper record 350 bandsaw ? Do the bearing guides make a big difference? Has the sabre stand out advantages over its cheaper sibling? Many thanks Victor
I haven’t used the cheaper saw but I ‘saw’ it at some trade shows. What stood out for me on the sabre 350 were the blade guides - they are so easy to set - no tools required - plus they’re bearings (although I think the bs350 are too) - I don’t like the friction blocks you get on some bandsaws. I also like the full height fence - I’m going to be resawing some boards for guitar back and sides, and this will help, plus you get an extra 55mm depth of cut on the sabre 350
Susan, I think these factorys use the same parts My Rikon 10-326 has the identical fence system the same push stick & allen key holder, trunion , Mine has a quick release on the blade tension & table angle, Does your Record saw have a 1 1/2hp motor & allow for a 13" resaw height and an accessory outlet???
Quick release on tension, 2Hp motor 285mm height but no accessory outlet
Good video showing the setup, looks a lovely machine. The noise sounds more like the blade weld hitting the rear bearing. My experiencewith Record Power blades has been very poor, they were made by Dakin Flathers who had serious quality issues. Hopefully these have been ironed out now. The best blades I have come across are from Tuff Saws.
I think the ticking is too fast to be a single weld hitting the bearing. I need to investigate more
Having checked the blade speed I think it is the blade weld hitting the bearing. I never realised the blade went round so fast! To be fair, the salesman did warn me about the weld quality and reckons the replacement blades are smooth
Susan Gardener I would definitely try out the new blades in that case, the blade does go round at a fair speed. I like the new guides on the sabre saw, they look a lot easier to set up than the old ones, I shall be buying the upper ones to retro fit on to my saw.
@@SusanGardener You can run a sharpening stone on the back of the blade while the saw is running and it will smooth out that weld. You can also take the corners of the back edge at the same time and it will help with backing out of a cut.
Very good video. But the prices are now from an other planet. In the EUR area it went up from about 1.100 EUR to now 1500 EUR within about one year.
Hi Susan, thanks for the vid. I am just looking for my first and probably only bandsaw and liked the look of this model as well. I am getting it for my own workshop for building guitars also (hobby). What are your overal impression of the machine and any pros/cons if any? I noticed one reviewer didn’t think a lot of the fence saying it didn’t lock true every time and the fence measure gauge wasn’t much cop. What did you think? Thanks.
I’ve not had any fence issues, but it is a little fiddly to change the fence to the low angle, or remove it. The setup of the fence is tricky as there’s deliberately a lot of play in the bolts before you tighten them. That means the measure gauge could be a few millimetres out. My gauge is 1 millimetre out - I could try moving the track but then I risk it going out of true.
I can’t fault the quality of cut
Thanks. I guess I’ll just have to go check one out.
Upgrade the blade. The stock blade cuts ok but the weld wasn’t smooth and clicked against the guides. Record’s own replacement blades seem really good - they cut well and have smooth welds
Thanks
The "wrong size" spanner may not be Records fault. Where I used to work we bought 10mm nuts by the thousand monthly and often ended up with some which required a different spanner to normal. The standard ISO size for instance is 17mm spanner for 10mm nut while Japan has a different spec. for some sizes, a 10mm nut requires a 14mm spanner in Japan.
I didn’t know that. I didn’t measure the nut but I guessed 16mm
Moved on from the baby bandsaw you had before! That one looks very solid,but,surprised there was no mitre thingy,given the price you paid for it! Very annoying about the cheap blade manufacturers put in these saws!
Great video....Great saw.. and a very cute lady 😘
Oh, lumps of cast iron flex. That's not even a very thick lump, needing to be on the light side. That's quite an upgrade on the seriousness level of your bandsaw.
Are you saying my Scheppach wasn’t serious? I’m hurt
Oh, it certainly pulled a valiant effort. What happened to it, did it have a stroke or retire with dignity?
It’s still viable. It might still get used
00:36 was Suzie always Suzie?
It is difficult to say on the video but that log looks more like Ash than beach to me. That aside it is great to see the saw in action and I hope there will be an update once you have used it for a while. (I hope that you are not planning to use it outdoors permanently, or keeping it in the garage, as it will likely start rusting very quickly).
It will be in the garage. I’ll make sure I wax the table I’m told covering it will help keep it from rusting
Wax should certainly help but I would still hate to keep a brand new £1000 band saw in a garage.......would rather keep it by my bed to be honest 😄
I did wonder about converting the living room :-)
Tuffsaws.co.uk has excelent blades, if you're still looking
No need to have the fence slightly open at one end, that’s more for table saws, on a bandsaw the danger of pinching is pretty much zero. You’re a bigger chance for drift if the fence isn’t dead square.
Thanks for confirming what I’d already suspected. I’ll set it square in future.
Why didn't you saw it with the block up against the guide instead of on the other side to ensure that your cut was straight. Not that your cut was not straight of course but it would have ensured that it was.
I was trying to saw along the pith. I’d pencilled a line on top, and that wasn’t parallel to the block
My record power bandsaw requires 3 different allan keys to configure the bearing section. Why they can't just design it with one size is beyond me.
I'm suddenly dissatisfied with my bandsaw!
Make sure you have a good blade. It did wonders for my Scheppach
Wat a lady
this is not the way to slap a small log