Building My New Blue Iris CCTV Setup with PTZ Cameras
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- In this video we'll take a look at my new CCTV setup based around a Blue Iris NVR utilising indoor PTZ cameras to allow me to set up a "privacy" mode so that when I'm at home, the cameras physically turn away and face the wall.
Buy on Amazon (Affiliate):
- Reolink E1 Zoom PTZ Camera: geni.us/pmI9xN
- 5v PoE Splitter: geni.us/6rnwKBV
- DC Tip Converter: geni.us/bChnbG
www.camerongray.me/
/ camerongray1515
Chapters:
00:00 - Introduction
00:26 - The Plan
05:45 - The Cameras
09:50 - Powering Cameras over PoE
12:19 - Building the NVR
17:34 - Installing Blue Iris
20:33 - Configuring & Adding Cameras
35:00 - PTZ Configuration
40:09 - Cameras Installed
41:09 - My Privacy Setup
44:24 - NVR Installed
44:44 - Conclusion
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Purchasing through these affiliate links will not cost you any more money, however the commission earned significantly helps fund the production of videos on my channel. - Наука та технологія
Buy on Amazon (Affiliate):
- Reolink E1 Zoom PTZ Camera: geni.us/pmI9xN
- 5v PoE Splitter: geni.us/6rnwKBV
- DC Tip Converter: geni.us/bChnbG
the Key frame is where the camera sends the entire frame and then only sends what changes in between the key frames. Motion detection needs to compare key frames or areas of a key frame to trigger a motion detection. In its most basic form, it effectively compares the hash of the key frames if the hash does not change then no movement. If the hash changes movement.
Very will explained, video editing software can also use i-frames. Ex-LTT editor Taran van Hemert has a very in depth video on his channel where he also brings up i-frames, I had no idea what they were until I saw that video, and then understood the implications of i-frames.
For any future cameras you want to get, the E1 Zoom isn't PoE but the price of an E1 Zoom + PoE adapter is basically the same as the E1 Outdoor, which is 4k, PoE and gets you a slightly nicer mounting solution as well.
Edit: One other thing: "Send RTSP Keep Alives" causes random dropouts with some Reolink cameras and it's best to keep that option unchecked.
Edit2: You can set presets in blue iris by just clicking and holding the preset number. The advantage of doing it that way is that BI will also take a thumbnail of the view so you can remember which preset is which.
Awesome, thanks for those tips, I'll make those changes! Your Blue Iris videos have been very useful! Good point on the E1 Outdoor - I'd seen them but only really considered them as being a viable option for outdoor mounting, but looking again it looks like they could still be used tabletop by just not using the included bracket?
@@camerongray1515 Yeah, they are almost identical to the E1 indoor models.
disabling the "Send RTSP Keep Alives"... dude i think you just solved the biggest frustration i had with my reo-link doorbell camera continually dropping in blue iris. you legend THANK YOU!
Make sure you go into settings and install BI as a service so it starts automatically when windows boots.
That's a really nice setup you got there now. I'll probably get round to doing something similar. :)
If you get problems with the pan axis not reliably returning to specific positions, you can split the camera top from the base, and under there you will probably find a wire which has gotten under the pan motor. Help the wire out from under the motor, and jam something under the motor so it can't happen again.
I have a very similar setup but I use scrypted which has nice integration with home assistant too. Would love to hear how blue iris works out for you as you add more
Great video, thank you .
Ive just set this up myself and it works great apart from im having issues with the blueiris phone app working on 4G. Think its some ports issue.
But have to say its worked out well so far. I have a 4 bay Qnap Nas that i've been using for a few years but found it quite clunky to use, takes about 10 seconds to connect on the phone app and trying to scrub back and forth on the video is impossible .
So having just bought another internal camera (Reolink E1 Pro) to add to my other IP cameras thought i'd give this a go. I found an Dell OptiPlex 7060 MFF for £95 and it came with Windows 10 installed. Setup Remote connection and installed BlueIris and I was pretty much up and running in an hour, I had a spare 1tb 2.5 drive handy so fitted that for the storage. Its great being able to quckly check video feeds and recordings on my phone now.
Just need to sort that 4G issue.
Good vid thanks for sharing
This is pretty much the same I have at home. Has worked well for years now.
There is the Reolink E1 Outdoor PoE -- 4K 8MP PTZ PoE Camera with Auto Tracking and Smart Detection. It looks very similar to this one.
That's because it is similar, all the E1 models share the same basic design. There's the E1, the cheapest model, the E1 Pro and E1 Zoom, a bump up in camera, and the E1 Outdoor (with and without POE) another bump, The Outdoor POE is more expensive than the Zoom, while the Zoom also has Auto Tracking and Smart Detection. It's just a matter of deployment really, Cameron as his indoors, also in a small space, and has all the features he needs. so for the sake of a cheap POE splitter, with 3 cameras, there's no need for "outdoor protection" and added cost when 5MP gets the job done and still has the same features.
With blue iris it also has number plate recognition and face recognition included.
You can set the presets in blue iris if you click and hold the number. It works pretty well.
I have plans to replace my NVR with a mini PC running frigate and a dual-edge TPU for object detection et al :).
im running Frigate + Reolink doorbell and its been great you'll love it
Blue Iris is the best. I am running it on a Windows Server VM though on my server.
I do a similar set up for my Parents and I.
We both have Mini PC's for recording & we use iSpy for each. and the folder it records to is a OneDrive folder so in theory we we would still have the footage if they managed to steal the NVR.
I did try Blueiris other being a bit difficult to navigate, it was fine for me but not for my dad. also i didn't like there own recording format, I bet there was a option i just needed to find but it's a good system.
So, with your pre-trigger and recording settings, that means you're constantly streaming both the 5Mbps and 512Kbps streams, but just recording to disk the 512Kbps stream, unless there's a trigger in which case you record to disk the contents of the 5Mbps stream. That's higher network bandwidth than just one stream alone, but does result in lower disk recording requirements.
Worth it...
Subscribed!
Interesting to see a Windows-based system. Seems ok. I prefer Zoneminder myself.
Just out of interest, is there any reason why you couldn’t/didn’t virtualise Blue Iris on one of your existing servers rather than adding a mini PC?
Good question - The cupboard that the NVR is in automatically locks whenever the alarm system is armed whereas my other rack with all my other servers sits out in the open in my office. By using a smaller machine I can keep it in the more secure location to make it slightly harder to grab if someone did break in and somehow identify the NVR.
I like a lot of things of what I've seen of Blue Iris. I think it's one of the best NVR solutions available. But I don't want to run anything remotely related to Windows.
@@camerongray1515 ahh that makes sense. I forgot your servers are in the office rack - you have so many racks! How are you accessing the cameras remotely? Via a VPN or something like Cloudflare Tunnels? Do you think that you have sacrificed a little bit of ease of remote use by going with a more conventional system over unifi protect (which obviously has its own remote access system and slick app)
@shubinternet I think some people have made it work in Docker but I am not sure how good it would be
Neat solution for your use case 👍 I’m currently running a Hikvision NVR and cameras and looking to replace with Unifi
Thanks! UniFi protect is definitely a good option as long as you're okay with being locked into UniFi cameras. I recently installed a UniFi Protect setup for my parents as it's by far the best/most intuitive mobile app and remote access experience I've found.
Why on earth would you want to move from a professional cctv range to an average cctv range in Ubiquiti? Madness.
Thats a really neat idea. When you showed the smart plug solution with your old cameras I was trying to think of a good way to inducate their state to guests (maybe with a red LED or something) but this is a clever solution to that problem!
Out of curiosity, can you also set them up to track motion? Like say someone breaks in, could you have the cameras pan around to keep them in frame?
Thanks - before this I actually had a plan to use PoE splitter devices like I used here to split out power and use it to power an LED next to each camera to indicate that it was on. I was going to use something like this to hold the LED (normally designed for emergency lighting system status indicators): www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/LEDlite/Grommets_EMGR/index.html
Cameras can definitely track motion, although this is more a function of the camera than Blue Iris itself. These cameras do support it and it works okay, although it's definitely not perfect and is pretty easy to "outrun"
Just right click in the video image and choose camera settings. But yes, I agree the interface is kind of weird especially coming from Blue Iris 4 to 5.
I have the same cameras albeit pro version connected to a Qnap NAS. I use the QVR pro app and also iOS app. It works pretty well but find it a bit slow and clunky on playback of footage. Would be interested to know if you tried the blueiris phone app. Thanks for a helpful video.
I have both, Blue Iris and Protect and I find protect faster than protect establishing the remote connection. In protect you need to wait a while to see your cameras from outside. In blue iris is almost instant.
Protect is faster than protect?
Nice, I setup something similar 5+ years ago for home.
Noticed you do have several misconceptions or false statements:
Absolutely NOT need Gigabit PoE adapters or even switches!
Each camera cannot send more than 1 to 5 Mbit/sec!
Absolutely not need a W10 license either!
You will have a tiny watermark on the lower right of tte screen, that’s it.
You do NOT need to select the camera make if you are going to use the “Find” button!!! (Just make sure the ports numbers match).
For the PTZ presets, I did the opposite!
Delete all presets in the camera and set/change/delete them directly from BI, anytime (no need to ever login to the camera again!).
I would not use such little PC as it cannot take a full size HDD.
Go for the next size up SFF, that can take 1) 3.5in HDD, 1) 2.5in SSD (convert DVD to 2.5in) and 1) NVMe.
Partition NVMe into C and D.
Save BI videos to drive D and configure BI to move them to the SSD and then to the big HDD for longer storage.
My comment on gigabit PoE splitters was directed at people looking to buy them for use with devices such as Raspberry Pis, I'm well aware of the bandwidth requirements of the cameras.
As for the Windows licence, that's fair, although personally I prefer to have all my machines licenced and if someone was looking to install a system like this for use in a business, they'd definitely want to use a correctly licenced OS. When it comes to these machines, the cost of getting one with a Windows licence is minimal.
For the PTZ presets, I need to look into setting these in BI since someone else said it was possible (by holding down the preset number?) although I haven't tried it yet. When I first set this up everything I could find pointed towards setting presets in the Camera but I'd also rather set them in BI assuming that works equally as well.
As for the size, this size of machine was intentional as I wanted something that could fit on a 1U rack shelf and will gladly sacrifice the ability to fit a 3.5" drive to get a smaller machine. The cupboard that this machine is in automatically locks whenever the alarm is armed so I want to keep the NVR in there, and there is no space in it for a larger machine. I'm not saying this is the only option anyone should ever consider for a BI setup and if you need more storage space and have the physical space, absolutely go for a larger machine (although at that point I'd be going down the rackmount server route) but for me, this was by far the best option in terms of size vs storage space.
"Learn blue iris" and "the hookup" for more blue iris ideas, pro-settings, etc.... But I bet you already saw both of those creators YT vids?
15:31 The flippable case badge goes back to at least the Optiplex 980 (1st gen Core i), but on the older ones, the badge was held in place with a screw instead of a clip like yours. The **80 series and newer seem to have removed this ability, though.
The flippable badge is on all form factors (except the Mini Tower), not just on the Micro.
Interestingly, HP designed their newer micros/Minis (and SFFs, and even towers) to have all the stuff the right way around when in "horizontal" mode, which I imagine is how most users have these set up anyway.
i'd be interested to know more about the alarm and privacy setup, this is something I am wanting to do but not sure if my existing Yale system woud be useful.
I demonstrated my setup here: ua-cam.com/video/Vqo4tSo0VMc/v-deo.html. Not sure about Yale alarms but most higher end conventional alarm systems (the ones that an alarm company would install) tend to have either some sort of COM port you can use to integrate the alarm with external systems or "Programmable Outputs" which are basically GPIO terminals that can be configured to switch High/Low based on various system states e.g. Arm/Disarm, Alarm Triggered.etc which you could probably use in some way.
@@camerongray1515cheers, i'll take a look now.
Nice video showing the setup. A bit of a shame that you're limited to 15fps for the main stream if the substream can only do 15fps as it seems a bit jerky on screen when you've triggered an event?
with Windows my main concern is updates, Windows does not have hotpatching like Linux and has to reboot to finish installing security updates, I wonder if these could be configured to run at a time where you're guaranteed to be home and the cameras don't have to be running
Great video. Ty.
Whenever you revisit the topic it would be great to see the RAM and CPU usage...
Generally pretty low - recording and streaming 3 cameras to the web interface and it's sitting around 10% CPU usage and 35% memory. Will be even lower when the Web UI isn't in use.
@@camerongray1515 Thx!!
I have Blue Iris with 7 Reolink cameras. The system works fine, but I was quite disappointed that after 1 year all updates are blocked until you pay again. Even the small incremental 5.8.x are no longer available. I would have expected only major updates would require a paid upgrade. Guess this is a subscription model software too.
I'm pretty suer you can swap that WiFi module for another nvme drive, if you want another drive.
What labeler are you using to label the equipment in the rack?
Second this
It's a Brother PT-E550W, I made a dedicated video about it here: ua-cam.com/video/MuisJBHeTrg/v-deo.html
I was worried about power consumption, but actually worst case the cameras are about £5/year each, and the PC is probably around £15/year.
i have a Qnap TS-431K price arrount 260€ with an Alpine AL214 ARM cpu and can use NVR but its not super fast with it 1gb ram , i can set up 2 camaras on it , use only 1 with its a cheap 30€ camara
Couldn't possibly see why you didn't want to fill your flat with 1500 unifi commercial ptz cameras 😉
Those small DEL PC's have high Ethernet packet loss.
Not something I've ever seen any evidence of or experienced myself - a NIC that drops packets for no reason would be a fault, not just a poor NIC. There are also different versions of these machines, the lower end 3000 models use Realtek NICs whereas the 5000 and 7000 series use higher quality Intel NICs, this is why I went for the 5070 over the slightly cheaper 3070 model.
@@camerongray1515we have ran into it and looking up the IC shows what capacitors are recommended... and there are spots for those caps, but the caps are missing. Dell's response was that it meets there specs. And it would probably work for most situations, but don't update the firmware on a HKvision camera or do anything that can't handle packet loss.
You make too much money Cameron lol!
Another video about this shit software.....
Worst use of PTZ lol
Feel free to suggest a better method of setting up cameras to make it extremely obvious to guests that they are not being recorded. Of course they'll still work as normal PTZ cameras including motion tracking when I'm away from home as well.
You can buy dome IP camera that has one way window film. The camera can see the surrounding but when you look at the camera you can't see where the camera is pointed. I do understand that you and your guest/s are camera shy. If no one knows where the camera is pointed there is no reason to be camera shy.
You can get those, but not being able to see where the camera is pointing won't do anything to make guests more comfortable - if there's a camera in the corner of a room, is it really reasonable to believe that pointing anywhere other than out into the room? It's not as if I'd install cameras and position them to only ever record a wall! With this PTZ setup, it is immediately visually obvious if the cameras are recording the room or not. This also means that even if there's an issue with the smart home integration and the cameras don't disable themselves, I can very easily see this by the position of the cameras.